From the Thames to the Tamar; a summer on the South Coast

Preface

. Charles Lamb observed that, whenever he saw the sea, he wished to be on it and across it. I know not whether such an impatience fills the breasts of others, but certain it is that the majority of us explore foreign lands in search of the ancient and picturesque, to the neglect of the attractions of our own shores. The Castles and Halls of England are fully equal to those of any other country, and there are many objects of interest lying close beside us •which we should make pilgrimages to visit, were they only sufficiently far removed. The following sketches have been written to give some clues to the history, and some descriptions of the scenery, of our Southern coast ; and I wish that such general attention could be attracted to the state of our historical laud-marks as should lead to measures being adopted to secure their preservation. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Arrival At Herne Bay

— RELAXATION OP CITY MEN—" HUSBAND MORNING " — INDIGNATION MEETING — DECLINE OP HERNE BAY — VILLAGE OF HERNE — RIDLEY'S LIFE THERE — ARCHIEPISCOPAL PALACE AT FORD — CRANMER'S HOSPITALITY — MRS. CRANMER'S AMBIGUOUS POSITION — DECAY AND DESTRUCTION OF FORD PALACE — CHISLET — CANARY SEED — THE " SISTERS" — ADVANCE OF THE SEA — DESTRUCTION OF THE CHURCH AT RECULVER — ROMAN WALLS — THE HOY AND ANCHOR. . . . 1

Chapter II. Road To Birchington

— THE " WANTSUME" — UNPLEASANT COM- PANIONS — A CHRYSOM CHILD — WINDMILLS ON THE COAST — BON JOUR CRISPE — MINSTER — PRIORY — LEGEND — MARGATE AND RAMSGATE- JEWISH SEPULCHRE. . . . .21

Chapter III

EBBSFLEET— THE MARSH — SANDWICH— STILLNESS AND ANTIQUITY OF THE TOWN — CHURCHES AND RELIGIOUS HOUSES — ' BARONS' OF SANDWICH — SMUGGLING — ANCIENT ENGINES OF WAR — RICH- BOROUGH — ROMAN COINS — RECEPTION OF QUEEN ELIZABETH — DETESTATION OF THE POPE. . . . . .36 VI CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Sad Memories Of Eastry

— DEAL — SANDOWN CASTLE AND COL- LEGE— HUTCHINSON — WALMER AND THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON —DOVER — SAXON AND NORMAN FORTIFICATIONS— THE CON- STABLE TOWER — CAPTURE OF LONGCHAMP, BISHOP OF ELY — A FRENCH VETERAN OF THE EMPIRE — ST. RHADIGONDA — LOVELY PROSPECT — SHAKESPEARE'S CLIFF — MAISON DIEU. . 5-1

Chapter V. Folkestone

— ST. EANSWITH — THE CANTERBURY ROAD— HOLY WELL ■ — EXPEDIENT OF THE PRESSGANG — REMINISCENCES OF AN OLD INHABITANT — MARTELLO TOWERS — SANDGATE CASTLE — HYTHE — ANCIENT HOSPITALS — SALTWOOD — ARCHBISHOP COURTE- NAY — CRANMER'S EXCHANGES — THE HOLY MAID OF KENT— THE MARSH — NEW ROMNEY — RYE. . . . . .73

Chapter VI. Aguish District

— RUINS OF WINCHELSEA — WESLEY'S TREE — HASTINGS — BATTLE — REMAINS OF HURSTMONCEAUX CASTLE — HISTORY OF PEVENSEY — LEWES — INTERESTING DISCOVERY — EX- ECUTIONS OF PROTESTANTS — SUFFERINGS OF THE QUAKERS. 102

Chapter VII. Brighton

— UCKFIELD — ANCIENT IRONWORKS — MAYFIELD PALACE —ST. DUNSTAN — STEYNING IN ST. CUTHMAN — PORTRAITS AT PARHAM — THE BABINGTON CONSPIRACY — AMBERLEY — ARUNDEL CASTLE — LOSS OF THE OWLS — THE PARK — BOGNOR — THE ROMANS IN BRITAIN — CHICHESTER — BOSHAM — DESTRUCTION OF RE- CORDS. ........ 120

Chapter VIII. Hayling Island

— PORCHESTER — MARGARET OF ANJOU— DESE- CRATION — BERE FOREST — COBBETT — SIR BEVIS OF HAMPTON — ROMSEY — SALISBURY— EXCURSION TO STONEHENGE — THE NEW FOREST — DESTRUCTION OF TREES — BEAULIEU — SANCTUARY MEN — THE LANCASTRIAN CAUSE— VINEYARDS IN ENGLAND. . CONTENTS. VII

Chapter IX. Forest Deer And Cattle

— RINGWOOD— MONMOUTH — STRANGE CHARACTER OF ONE OF THE KEEPERS OF THE FOREST — RANULF FLAMBARD — HIS ADVENTURES — LETTER OF EDWARD VI. — DEATH AND MONUMENTAL CHAPEL OF MARGARET COUNTESS OF SALISBURY — BRANKSEA ISLAND AND COLONEL WAUGH. 174

Chapter X. Wareham

— MUTILATION OF THE CHURCH— EARTHWORKS— CORFE CASTLE — ST. EDWARD THE MARTYR — KING JOHN AND THE PROPHET — DESTRUCTION OF THE CASTLE— SWANAGE — NIE AG- GLESTONE — BENE PEGIS — CARDINAL MORTON — THE PUNISH- MENT OF PRESSING — LULWORTH — ROYAL VISITORS — BINDON ABBEY — SERVICE RENDERED AT CORONATIONS . . 189

CHAPTER XL DORCHESTER

— DORSET CHEESE — EARTHWORKS — THE MUSEUM — PERSECUTIONS UNDER ELIZABETH — RECKLESS CRUELTY OF JUDGE JEFFREYS — FORDINGTON — ST. GEORGE — ORIGIN OF THE RUSSELL FAMILY — CERNE ABBEY — THE CERNE GIANT — ATHOL HAMPTON— WEYMOUTH — " HUMBLE ALLEN" — PORTLAND . 211

Chapter XII. Coast Road To Bridport

— ABBOTSBURY — SWANNERY — BRIDPORT — HENRY WARBURTON— LYME REGIS— MONMOUTH— SEATON — MONUMENT OF THE DRAKE FAMILY — RUINS OF NEWENHAM ABBEY— AXMINSTER — PRESERVATION OF FORD ABBEY . 235

Chapter XIII. Beer

— ANCIENT QUARRIES — ROB ROY OF THE WEST — SIDMOUTH — BUDLEIGH SALTERTON — ST. JOHN IN THE WILDERNESS — LAD- RAM BAY — EXETER — VISIT OP CHARLES I. AND HENRIETTA MARIA. . . ..... CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV. From Exeter To Dartmoor

— MORETON HAMPSTEAD — PUNCH BOWL TREE— GRIMSPOUND — FINGLE BRIDGE — BRADMERE POOL — CHAGFORD — MEN OF LEISURE — MONOLITHIC CIRCLE — POST BRIDGE — WISTMANS WOOD — PRISONERS OF WAR AT PRINCE TOWN — DARTMEET — ASBURTON — HEYTOR. . . . 277

Chapter XV. Earls Of

DEVON— POWDERHAM CASTLE— THE PARSON AND CLERK — TORQUAY — EXILED EMPERORS — CALAMITY AT BRIXHAM — MEMORIES OF DARTMOUTH— KINGSBRIDGE AND PLYMOUTH £03

Chapter I. Arrival At Herne Bay

— RELAXATION 01* CITY MEN — " HUSBAND MORNING" — INDIGNATION MEETING — DECLINE OF HERNE BAY — VILLAGE OF HERNE — RIDLEY'S LIFE THERE — ARCHIEPISCOPAL PALACE AT FORD — CRANMER'S HOSPITALITY — MRS. CRANMER'S AMBIGUOUS POSITION — DECAY AND DESTRUCTION OF FORD PALACE— CHISLET— CANARY SEED— THE " SISTERS"— ADVANCE OF THE SEA. — DESTRUCTION OF THE CHURCH AT RECULVER — ROMAN WALLS — THE HOY AND ANCHOR. " TT is exactly half -past six," said Colonel R , Jas we drew up at the door of the " Dolphin," at Herne Bay, " we have arrived in excellent time for dinner." " Can you take us in ?" I inquired of the waiter, who hastened out to receive us with a graceful bow. " We can, sir," he replied, with evident satis faction. The carriage-door was opened, and in another minute I had alighted, and was standing beside the steps.

The Colonel required assistance, as he was somewhat the slower for his Peninsular campaigns ; but in the case of his niece my attentions were B superfluous, for she tripped down with the light ness of a mountain nymph. Everything was soon comfortably arranged. Our baggage and lady's maid were safely landed, our rooms assigned, and at two minutes before seven I was standing in our sitting-room, gazing over the calm bay across the not unwelcome foreground of a snowy tablecloth, glittering with glass and silver. As the clock struck seven the Colonel made his appearance with military precision. Emily was ladylike and late, but she very soon joined us, and we sat down as merry a tete-a-trois as dined that night at the hospitable " Dolphin." "So far so well!" exclaimed the Colonel, un folding his napkin, as the soup appeared.

" Tlie first week of our expedition has been a success. Since we left London we have seen one of the finest memorials of the grand old Normans, and a cathedral* which, though the smallest in England, carries us back in memory to the times when churches, built by the piety of the Saxons, were destroyed by the savageness of the Danes."* " And we have seen some places which awaken lighter recollections," I added - " Gad's Hill, for instance, where the greenwood once skirted the road, and where near the ' Sir John Falstaff ' inn, that jovial knight played some notable pranks. Probably Shakespeare had seen the place ; he was * Rochester. The Bishopric is the oldest in England, except that of Canterbury. Pepys speaks of the " great doors being covered with the skins of Danes." The original building was destroyed by their incursions.

FORTUNES OF HERNE BAT. certainly acquainted with its reputation. Here also has lived in our times a wizard who surpassed Shakespeare's, ' dickens,' in fathoming the hearts of men,* and hard by in Sheppey we are reminded of the performances of the old lord of Shurland, who forms such a rare figure in one of Barham's grotesque legends. "f "Yes, we have seen much that is interesting," rejoined the Colonel, " and now here we find ourselves back in Cockayne, among the friends we left behind us. If I am not mistaken, Emily, I saw your favourite milliner drive by five minutes since." " I should have thought Madame Chic was too fashionable for Herne Bay," she replied. "You are severe on the place," I returned, "you cannot tell what magnates may here retire from Court. To-morrow, perhaps, may teach us more."

Next morning, not to lose time, we walked along the shore, and through the streets, and took a general view of the locality. Herne Bay, as far as the town is concerned, has by no means an inspiriting aspect. Time was when steamers were constantly stopping at the end of the pier, and dischargiug their multitudinous cargoes into the bosoms of expectant hotel-keepers. But things are sadly changed now. The pier, along which the jubilant throng was wout to pass, proved * Few men attain the object of their boyish ambition. Dickens' fancy for Gads Hill was so well known that, as I have heard, Mr. Collins purchased it for him when he was abroad. f Sburland in Sheppey. A witch foretold Sir Robert Shurland's death, &c. — Ingoldsby Legends. E as transitory as the mirth of the frequenters. It was formed only of wooden beams and pillars, and old Neptune made a mock of the fragile structure, and soon reduced it to a decrepit state.

The Company, whose dividends had never been encouraging, now called on the inhabitants to assist them in propping the crumbling foundations of their prosperity, but met with no response — the towns-people considering the railway sufficient ; and, as a result, some six or seven years since the pier was closed. This means of access had scarcely been cut off when an unexpected blow was received from another quarter. Herne Bay, like the other watering places along the coast, was chiefly supported by city men, who took apartments here for their wives and children, so that they could run down by the cheap Saturday train, and get a mouthful of invigorating air after the week's confinement in a stifling office. On that white-marked day Paterfamilias, and Jack, and Tom, and Bill, would repair to London Bridge in high holiday spirits and costume, and as they were in a genial humour they would take their friends Harry and Bob with them.

Nor could they present themselves empty-handed to Jane and Maria, they must bring some substantial as well as sentimental pleasure; some salmon, some grouse, and something to make a regular good supper. And then, free from care, they get up at six on Sunday morning to take a plunge in the fresh blue wave, and come back to breakfast, and have some nice " little things " at it, and then they go to church in their Sunday best, and have SUNDAY EXCURSIONISTS. a good dinner afterwards, and there must be some thing substantial at tea, and a genuine hot supper to finish up with. Then comes Monday morning — "husband morning," as it is called — and all go back again for another week to their dreary desks, but much cheered and invigorated. Such is ono side, and the better of the picture ; but, alas ! look at the other.

Imagine the faces of our mutual friend the landlady and " general " Mary Ann, when they see all these hulking fellows arriving from London, and hear that everything must be done well — it really must — because of the awful presence of Mr. B and Mr. C , lords of creation, and great city guns. Mrs. Nipcheese and Mary Ann are not only unable to attend " a place of worship," but have not even time for their meals on the weekly day of rest. To come to the point these Saturnalia, or rather Sunalia, be came at length so insupportable that a meeting was called of indignant landladies. All the neighbour ing watering-places had cause for complaint, and after an animated discussion a general petition was drawn up to be presented to the Railway Directors, re questing them to stop the cheap trains, which brought down such objectionable consignments.

Well, Margate and Ramsgate, thanks to high cliffs and Ethiopian serenaders, were able to survive the severe ordeal, but it proved too much for poor Herne Bay, with her crazy pier. The prayers in anger made were in anger granted, the arrivals became slacker and slacker, the unfinished houses remained as " carcases in the highway," and even FROM THE TIIAMES TO THE TAMAR. the new church in the centre of the town now stands a ruin, if that which has never been com pleted can be justly dignified with such a title. The town may be literally said to be grass-grown, for there are three acres of land in the centre of it covered with a wilderness of weeds, but promising soon to produce some serviceable pasturage. Two miles from Herne Bay lies the little village of Herne — a far older and more interesting place, hallowed by the memory of the great Ridley.

It is a peaceful, secluded spot, well suited to be the abode of learning and religion. The hamlet has still many a dwelling of " timber-crossed antiquity," and of overhanging stories, such as may have been familiar to the Reformer in his parish ministrations ; but his dwelling is gone, and even Stroud House is "translated," for, though some of its chambers remain, it has been enlarged, painted, and plastered, in short made comfortable and commonplace.* The hamlet stands on the borders of an extensive park, beneath aged trees, heavy with dense masses of foliage. In the central street rises the grand grey tower of the church, approached through an avenue of horse-chestnuts, and marked by two very ancient yews. As we approached the venerable pile, full of enthusiasm and Protestant sentiments, we experienced a slight shock on ob serving two capacious benitiers on either side of the * Formerly called At Sea's Court, and belonging to the family of At- Sea, until the reign of Elizabeth, when it was sold to the Knowlers.

Their crest was a heron, it would have been the only one in the neighbourhood now. RIDLEY AT HERNE. the porch. There was nothing remarkable in their preservation, but at the moment they seemed to disconcert us. On entering the sacred building, however, our former feelings returned, the broad aisles, the strong though slender pillars, the un obstructed area, gave an unusual sense of freedom and expanse, and would have been impressive had the voice of Ridley never echoed within its walls. It was a place admirably in keeping with its memories, with the crowded consrega tions of the Reformer, with the anthem of praise which burst forth when Ridley introduced here, for the first time in this country, the singing of the Te Deum in English. Ridley was preferred to this living in 1538, the year after he became Cranmer's chaplain, probably because it was situated so con veniently near the palace at Ford.

He remained here till 1547,* and it was during his studies in this place that he was led to reject the doctrine of Transubstantiation. The tardiness of this change may appear unaccountable to some who have not realized how gradually the Reformation progressed, and by what careful aud moderate men it was promoted. It somewhat resembled the " Catholic" Reformation of Dollinger and Hyacinthe. In the Articles published by Henry VIII's authority, Transubstantiation was affirmed, invocations of saints and prayers for souls in purgatory were recommended, and we know that Queen Elizabeth opposed the removal of a crucifix and figure of the Virgin from her private chapel, where she also kept * He held it till 1549. holy water. Ridley was a man that drew his con clusions slowly, but when once convinced his decisions were unalterable.

Notwithstanding this firmness, he was most amiable, and he treated the mother and relations of his enemy, Bonner, whom he superseded in the see of London, with almost romantic tenderness, frequently placing her at the head of his table. Perhaps in these chivalrous attentions we may trace the influence of his three years' sojourn in the Sorbonne and Louvain. The church of Herne was old, even in Ridley's time; the oaken screen dates from Henry the VII's reign, and the richly-carved font, unmistak ably belongs to the perpendicular period. Among the tombs in the church, John Knowler's, 1737, is remarkable for its inscription : — Here lies a piece of Christ, a star in dust, A vein of gold, a china dish that must Be used in Heaven, when God shall feed the just. Approved by all, and loved so well, Though young, like fruit that's ripe he fell."

There are here several good crosses, exhibiting the changes in the widespread embroidered cap and flowing robe or cloak, which took place between 1380 and 1470. The most remarkable is one before the altar rails, bearing the name of Elizabeth Fyneux, a lady said to have been converted by Ridley. She is mentioned by him when alluding to Herne on his way to the stake : — " Farewell Herne, thou worshipful and wealthy parish, the first cure whereunto I was called to minister God's word. Thou hast heard of my mouth oft-times the FORD PALACE. 9 word of God preached, not after the Popish trade, but after Christ's Gospel. Oh ! that the fruit had answered to the seed ! And yet I must acknow ledge me to be thy debtor for the doctrine of the Lord's Supper, which at that time God had not revealed unto me ; but I bless God in all that godly virtue and zeal of God's word, which the Lord, by preaching of His Word, did kindle manifestly both in the heart aud the life of that godly woman there, my Lady Fiennes; the Lord grant that His Word took effect there in many more."

Leaving Herne, we proceeded eastward to visit the site of the Archiepiscopal palace (two miles distant) at Ford. The route had a peculiar interest for us, as it was that by which Cranmer and Ridley had doubtless often walked, to confer together on the prospects and difficulties of the newly-established church. That broad road across the open country, rising and falling just sufficiently to afford here and there a glimpse of the blue distance ; that narrow, deep-set lane, with over-hanging beech, and ash, and sycamore ; the hill and dale, and general scenery was that which was familiar to the eyes of those great men. And now we reach the residence which, in the days when the archbishop was a prince, was somewhat better worthy the name of palace than are the abodes of our prelates in these later times.

Little, alas ! remained to gratify our expectations. Imagination had scarcely sufficient materials to rebuild the edifice from those few broken and disconnected walls. All we could collect was that the building was of great solidity, and generally formed of masses of rough stone and mortar. In one place we detected what appeared to be a layer of Roman bricks, and the masonry seemed to prove that some work of very ancient days had been incorporated in this building — the oldest residence of the archbishop, except that at Canterbury. From some few lines of demarcation, we conjectured that most of the rooms had been small, but it is said, by Philpot, to have been " a magnificent mansion." No one is now living who has seen any considerable portion of the structure entire, but an old man told me that he could remember the demolition of three parallel walls, and that his master, who was much his senior, could recollect there having been an arch with a room above it, at the entrance of the pre cincts, but that the present porter's lodge (of red brick) is of much later date than the palace.* Perhaps the best evidence of the former im portance of the establishment is found in the supply of water, which is still conveyed from a long distance.

This residence was in its prime about Cranmer's time, for Archbishop Moreton almost rebuilt it in the reign of Henry VII. Could we travel back some three centuries, what a different scene should we here behold ! A stately pile rises before us, across whose broad thresholds sombre individuals are passing, deep in learned * This is generally considered to have been the ancient gateway, which certainly was built of brick. We read that the keeper was allowed tho gate-house — comprising four ground rooms and three upper— the doves' houses and other privileges, among which were livery (food for horses) with the gentlemen. CRANMER'S HOSPITALITY. 11 controversy. These are the Reformers, men now historical, who flocked to Cranmer from various parts of England, and even from the continent — especially from Germany.

And if we wish for a contrast to this grave company, we may behold before the gates a train of courtly attendants in waiting upon bluff old Henry VIII. , who is on his way to the siege of Boulogne, and has halted to dine with the Archbishop. The King cannot ex pect to find here the luxury and magnificence of Wolsey, but he may yet be sure of being right royally entertained. Cranmer always kept up a certain amount of state, and lived in a manner which became a poten tate of the church, and the godfather of Edward and Elizabeth. He was a prince in hospitality as well as in learning, and each day at noon (such was then the hour) while a crowd of dependents were entertained in the great hall, a distinguished com pany assembled round his private table. The fare was always of the best,* not for himself, but for his guests, and to avoid the imputation of misap plying the revenues of his office.

The wives of the clergy were probably not generally present, out of consideration for the prejudices of the day. The vice-president's chair was, no doubt, often occupied by Ridley, and the intellectual feast must have been of the choicest description under the direc- * We can form some idea of his usual style of living from his observing in some strictures on the luxury of the dignitaries of the church, " an archbishop should be contented with six dishes of meat, and four at second course — custards, tarts, fritters, cheese, fruit, or such like. tion of two men of such learning and experience, and not deficient in the advantages of birth, for both were descended from county families, and had been early accustomed to gentle and refined society. Here we might have met Bucer, the scholar, Leland the topographer, and Fagius, the Hebraist ; and we may be sure that, when the repast was concluded, the genial hour had arrived, and the company collected round the chess-tables, such brilliant men as Latimer and Ridley enlivened the conversation with many a sally of rare and epigrammatic excellence.

Alas, for the dark termination of so bright a vision ! Could not the faggots of bigotry have consumed some meaner victims than these patrons of learning, and pioneers of civilization ?* The social intercourse of the clergy must have been much affected by the peculiar circumstances of that time. There seems to be little doubt that Cranmer kept his wife as much out of sight as possible, and probably was only enabled to live with her by rendering it difficult to prove his marriage ; concubinage among the clergy being not then considered so disreputable as wedlock. She was a German, and was able to associate with many of her distinguished countrymen who were constant visitors at the palace. Strange stories were invented by the Archbishop's enemies, about * Cranmer was always mild and kindly. He was in favour of treating the Romanists with lenity, and was wont to say that " people should be led, not driven, out of mistakes."

He wrote much ou theological subjects. The greater part of his original MSS. were loft at Ford at his death, and fell into the hands of his enemies. MRS. CRANMER. the way in which he was wont to smuggle her about, some saying that she was packed into a case when he was travelling, and that on one occasion, after the luggage had been much thrown about, she was set down on her head at the palace gate, and was only restored to a more comfortable and digni fied position, owing to faint cries being heard arising out of the box. In Edward's short reign there was more liberty in this respect, and we read of Cranmer living openly with his wife. He left a son and two daughters; his wife was twice married after his death. To chronicle decay is always a sad undertaking ; our words shall be few. In the time of Arch bishop Parker, we find Ford considerably dilapi dated, and he even applied to Elizabeth for leave to use the materials of it for the enlargement of Bekeshorne.

Archbishop Whitgift resided here, and hunted in the park ; and some fifty years after wards another primate, Abbot, was limited to this residence, when, having fallen into disgrace for negligence, he was suspended from his functions. He seems also to have been a sporting character,* for while out shooting deer with a crossbow, ho accidentally killed one of Lord Zouche's game keepers — a misfortune which afterwards preyed much upon his mind. This house was pulled down and sold in 1658, during the Civil War. A portion of the lodge seems to have been preserved, perhaps * The prelates of those times were men of physical as well as mental activity. Cranmer was a good shot, and could ride horses which his grooms could not manage. out of consideration for the " keeper of the palace," whose office was of some importance, and gener ally held by knights.

The last of them seems to have been Sir Stephen Thornhurst, whose rusty helmet is still hanging in the church of Herne. But the most remarkable object visible from the town of Herne Bay is the Church of the Reculvers, the twin spires of which rise on a height above the sea about three miles to the eastward. The size and position of the building make it most conspicuous, and we determined not to leave the neighbourhood without paying it a visit. As neither Emily nor the Colonel felt equal to trudging three miles across the sands, we waited till we were leaving Herne Bay, and took the inland route, which makes a considerable circuit. We found the road bleak and uninteresting, and so much exposed, and swept by the cold north wind, that we wrapped our plaids closely round us. Except about the little village of Beltinge, there was scarcely a tree visible.

At Chislet we halted for a few minutes to see a very ancient church, in which a remarkable Norman doorway was brought to light during the restoration of the building in 1866. The font, now restored to its sacred use, is remarkable for its antiquity, and the vicissitudes it has undergone. In the memory of some it had been a substitute for a pig-trouo-h in a neighbouring farm, and it afterwards stood in the graveyard to hold water for an ovine, instead of a Christian flock. As we were leaving the wavy turf, ROAD TO RECULVER. 15 we stopped in obedience to the summons of an ancient grave-stone, and read as follows : — SISTE, VIATOR. 11 Passenger, stop ! and drop the pious tear, The best of brothers, best of friends, lies here, In dress, discourse, food, heart, and all things plain A good, well-meaning, right-down honest man."

The Manor of Chislet was given by King Ethel bert to the prior and convent of St. Augustine, at Canterbury, together with a golden sceptre, and a bridle and saddle adorned with gold and precious stones. In after-times the park, the property of the Archbishop, was leased to Thomas Brook on his marrying Susan, the daughter of Cranmer. On resuming our course over the desolate country, we passed by several fields of what seemed to be a kind of tall grass. The land was not in meadow, and yet we had never seen so light a grain crop. On getting a few heads of it, I found it was canary seed, and Emily said she would take some of it home to her birds as a remembrance. This plant, which is said to grow more plentifully in this corner of England than in any other part of the country, was first introduced here by the Dutch refugees, who were driven from their own land by religious persecution, and to whom we are indebted for many valuable acquisitions.

Proceeding onwards, we soon came in sight of the towers of Reculver, and passed the new church, built out of the spoils of the older and grander edifice. Then the road wound deep between high banks, overshadowed by the feathery branches of the ash, and fantastic with the stumps of ragged oaks ; and we passed by a few cottages to the inn beside the ruin. The twin towers, with their lofty spires, remain still in good preservation, and are rendered more interesting by the following legend, from which they have derived the name of the " Sisters." Frances St. Clair, Lady Abbess of the Benedictine house at Faversham, when lying ill, made a vow that if she recovered she would visit the shrine of the blessed Virgin at Bradstow (Broadstairs) and make a costly offering. In fulfilment of this vow she and her sister embarked at Faversham to go to Bradstow ; but on the way they were wrecked at Reculver.