Three Visits to Iceland ... With illustrations, etc

Appendix

LONDON J. MASTERS & CO. 78, NEW BOND STREET i_97 TO A. AND D., M., E., AND B., AND A. N., MY FELLOW-TRAVELLERS IN THE THREE VISITS,. I DEDICATE THESE ROUGH NOTES IN REMEMBRANCE OF THE HAPPY DAYS WE SPENT TOGETHER.

Preface

. O O many books have been written on Iceland travelling v— that it may seem almost superfluous to give these little diaries— intended at first for "home consumption" — ■ to the public ; but having been found interesting to those who have had the opportunity of reading them in the pages of a small weekly serial, it is hoped that they may be acceptable, and find some readers, in a completer form. They do not pretend to give a learned or scientific account of Iceland and its phenomena. The journeys described were short, though somewhat off the beaten track of tourists ; and having been undertaken as much for the study of men, manners, and language, as of the natural features of the country, the notes will be sound to deal with man (and beast) almost if not quite as much as with mountain and river.

They are given almost exactly as jotted down at the time, which must be their excuse for much that may seem small and personal ; but they should have at least the merit of genuineness, and serve to recall, and as far as possible to impart, the impressions and recollections of three most en joyable and amusing summer excursions by land and sea. September 16th, 1896. 1896.) RIDING SONG. Morning on the hill-tops, morning wakes again ! Mist upon the hill-tops, sunlight on the plain ; Morning breeze is blowing, steeds are fresh and fleet, All the way is musical wiih tread of many feet. O the joys of Iceland, the mountain and the plain ! Riding through the sunshine, riding through the rain. Noon upon the hill-tops, noon is come again ! Sunshine on the hill-tops, basking lies the plain : All the air around us is filled with odours sweet, Pressed from thymy cushions by tread of many feet.

O the joys of Iceland, the meadow and the plain ! Riding through the sunshine, riding through the rain. Rain upon the hill-tops, swamp upon the plain ! Swollen runs the river through rushing of the rain. Shoulder to the current brave the roaring fleet, Steadily, warily, the tramp of many feet. O the joys of Iceland, the river and the plain ! Riding through the sunshine, riding through the rain. Night upon the hill-tops, night draws on again ! Frost upon the hill-tops, dew upon the plain. In the grassy valley a welcome warm and sweet, Shelter for the wayfarers, rest for weary feet. O warm hearts of Iceland, on mountain-side and plain Blessings be upon you in the sunshine and the rain ! {On the road between Kolvidarhol and Reykjavik, Aug. l$tk, THREE VISITS TO ICELAND.

Part I

A. H. LEITH, PHOTO. THE CATHEDRAL, REYKJAVIK DIARY OF A THREE WEEKS TRIP TO ICELAND: Being Notes Taken at Sea and on Land.

PART I. CHAPTER

I. si HAD always felt a great desire to visit Iceland, and T in August, 1894, I was enabled to accomplish my desire. I took berths (return) in a Danish mail steamer, Laura (from Copenhagen via Granton and the Faroes) to Reykjavik, for my party, consisting of myself, a daughter, and two sons. I may mention that, of the latter, the elder was an officer in the army, of some years' service, the younger had just passed out of Sandhurst, and was waiting for his gazette. They will be mentioned in this diary respectively as A. and D. August 8th. — Arrived at Granton, after a comfortable journey, a little after 7 p.m. Found two Icelanders were in the train, come from America for Reykjavik. There was a rude insolent porter at the dock station, who seemed to have been drinking, and it was difficult to extract anything from him as to how the baggage was to be conveyed to the Laura, which was berthed in the mineral dock, a long way round from where we were.

After some delay he got a hand-truck for our baggage, but did not seem disposed to do anything for the poor Icelanders. A. got hold of the station-master, and by making a formal complaint to him, the porter at length became rather frightened into civility. We made friends with one of the Icelanders, who could speak very pretty English, and seemed amused when he heard we were going to " Hreykjavik," as he pronounced it — I think, though, that this was his Eastfirther dialect, as others I met did not pronounce thus. So I told him I could read Icelandic, though I had never heard it spoken, and he said he could teach me ; so I said he should teach me to talk before we got to Reykjavik. A. was very kind to him, and it was pretty to see how confidingly he followed A. about his luggage. They had a good deal with them ; one very pretty box with silver-plated corners and clasps, and a deal box with " glass," addressed to some one in Laxardal.

They got hold of a hand-cart and began lading it themselves. We got our luggage round at last — a long way it was, and I was sorry for the poor man who had to wheel it, a very different character from the first. A. paid him well for it. I was much struck with the gentle and gentlemanlike manner of my new friend ; his accent was so soft and pretty, and he has, though not handsome, a very good open kindly face. (I was going to Iceland to study the people, their language and character, quite as much as the country, and consequently I was interested by all those whom I met, and have devoted a good many of my notes to their specialities.) When the station-master met him about his business, this man began by addressing him, first of all, so prettily, with " How do you do, sir ? " before proceeding to state his wants.

We found the Laura a small boat, but comfortable enough. A. compared it unfavourably with P. and O. and troopships, but D. and I, who are not spoilt by such, think it very nice. When we went on board we found the sailors in the midst of swabbing the decks. Edith and I could not find a dry place to sit on, and were gradually driven to sit on a hatch to keep our feet dry. We have very good berths, two in each. It was very hot at night, and our port-hole was against the dock. 9th. — Early this morning we were waked by the sounds of weighing anchor, &c, and at daybreak we steamed out of harbour. It rained early, but when we got up it was a fine cool grey morning. I had a sea-water bath in the bath room (which is close to the engines, with a steam connection for filling) which was delightful. Breakfast is at 10, dinner at 3, supper at 8; but as "Kiobenhavn" time is three quarters of an hour before that of Scotland it is not so far out.

We had a very fair supper last night — light dishes of fish, ham, and so forth, excellent butter and bread, and a nice sort of brown seed-cake. The breakfast dishes are much the same, but there was also beefsteak and onions. We got good cups of coffee early, and ditto at breakfast, and as yet have not made much demand upon the box of stores we brought with us. There is a very nice kind stewardess called Johanna, who cannot speak much English, but generally understands you ; the steward talks a little English. The boat is not at all crowded. There are two English lads who are going to fish at Thingvellir, and A. and D. are fraternizing with them. They have not been to Iceland before, but have been finding out a good deal from friends, and can give information. My friend is a steerage passen ger, but I have seen him, and hope to have some more talk.

There are some women and children (Danes, I imagine), and it is amusing to hear them talk; some men are playing quoits. We have been passing Aberdeen, Peterhead, &c. It seems curious to have had to travel so far south to come back again, as we started from our Aber deenshire home ! A beautiful day and calm sea. I have had a long conversation with my Icelander. He is most kind and ready to help me, and looks at me with eyes twinkling with delight when I come out with Icelandic words, some of which I pronounced right, and others he corrected. Some of the ordinary words are pronounced even more like English or Scotch than I thought. I asked him about ponies, and he said he knew a man who had very good ones. He thinks I may get as far as Thingvellir in the limited time we shall have. He is going to a place called Pabost, on the east coast, to stay with his mother, who is a widow, and had been " hriting " for him to come to her.

When I said I was going to ride, he immediately asked if I had brought a saddle, and on my saying yes, if I had one for my daughter. We had a good lunch at 3, and afterwards Edith and I painted, she making a really good picture of distant Peterhead, and I a few flying sketches, odds and ends. It became much colder, and I got out my fur-trimmed coat. The sea got up a bit, but the steamer has not rolled at all. Much warmer again on turning into the Moray Firth, and bright sunshine. Altogether delightful. 10th. — The sea got up last evening. We slept well, but E. felt the roughness early in the morning. I have been standing a long time at the bow with D., who enjoys the sensation as I do. Certainly it is one worth experiencing, and seems to come nearly up to one's idea of a seagull's flight, as you look down upon them swooping across the ship's path, and the heaving waves below.

There is not really much sea on yet. A most glorious fresh bright sunny day ; such perfect wind, only unfortunately for us it is a head wind, making us lose precious time on the way. We sighted an island far to the east ; captain said it was the Fair Isle. It did look very fair. I had a splendid long talk with my Icelandic master last evening. We walked up and down, or stood conversing. He went through the alphabet with me, and told me many things I wanted to know. I asked his name, and he said Benedikt was his first name, and his second was " a very hard one to say — Hrafnkelsson." I don't find it hard. He says it is a very old name, which I knew. I begin to put sentences together, and told him my son said I was to learn to speak before we came to Reykjavik, to interpret sor them. He told me how to ask, and what " if you please " was.

He is very fond of teaching, and says he would have liked nothing better than to be a teacher, but his father could not afford him enough education. As it is, he is a carpenter by trade, and was five years in Winnipeg. He is very intelligent, and clever at grammar evidently. I thanked him for my lesson, and he said "it was a very poor one," so modestly. We are supposed to reach Faro to-morrow about 3 p.m. Sea and wind still pretty high. I have had another spell at the bow ; the sensation is delightful beyond words. The boat is swinging pretty well, and the wind keen ; the grey waves curdling and swelling and scooping below, but the motion less than I should have expected. My friend appeared rather late to-day, and looking a little dejected. He does not think this a good boat. We had a little walk and talk.

He told me that two other young men on board were Icelanders ; one going to be a sheriff or sysselman, the other a clergyman. He supposed they might be able to talk to me. Hrafnkelsson and I talked about flowers. There are some pot plants on board, going to an address at Reykjavik. He said there are a number of flowers in Iceland, on the hillside. He also asked me, apologizing, where I came from. I have not much to say further of last night except that E. retired early, and I, with A. and D., stayed up looking out for land, which we saw at last ; the Faroes, on the far horizon, at first hardly to be told from clouds. The latter were also very beautiful — grand shapes, shading from purple to cold dead blue and white-grey. This morning A. called me between 5 and 6 : we were anchored off Transvik.

So I got up, dressed hastily and went on deck — and it was lovely ! A., D., and I went at our sketch-books and paints, and were soon joined by the resuscitated E. with hers. Words are very inadequate to describe the beauty of the scenery, at either end of the vessel. On the W. the narrow passage, through which we had steamed overnight, widening out into a large land locked bay, with high green steep hills all round, and the little town clustering on the south bank. The early morn ing was so calm and lovely too ; like the air of the Highlands in summer. After a bit Hrafnkelsson appeared, and seemed interested in the drawings, and A.'s camera, which was soon at work. A little later we were told that we might post a letter at Thorshavn, our next stopping place : so I flew to my writing-case, and others did the same.

Writing two long letters rather takes the spirit out of one's diary, but we have seen plenty this afternoon to make a long entry. Between 2 and 3 p.m. we weighed anchor for Thorshavn. A number of people came on board at Transvik, fishwives and fishermen chiefly. Some were most picturesque. One oldish man in particular, with a dark red-brown handsome face, wore a brown stuff coat exactly like the strong woollen stuff that used to be woven in the Strathdon Highlands. He wore knee-breeches and long hose, and was very like an old Highlander. At Thorshavn we parted with some fellow-travellers, a German, Mrs. B., wife osa doctor, with two sweet children ; a boy of twelve called Wilhelm, and a girl of six called Mary. The boy talked good English, with the exact pronunciation of " canny Newcastle " !

He was a very fine sturdy child with the prettiest manners, and we made great friends ; he had been staying at Malvern and Lincoln, and could talk most intelligently. I made a rough sketch of him. After our dinner we went ashore at Thorshavn, which is the quaintest place ! All the houses look as if they had just been taken out of a German toy box ; they are of wood, and very neat and trim. We and most of our shipmates went all about the place, and it was funny how we were always meeting them at comers ; they politely took off their hats to us ! We went up a steep street with these funny houses standing at all sorts of angles, and on different levels ; it gave one the feeling of being at one of the Earl's Court exhibitions, such as they get up of " Old London," &c. The women have a strong likeness to the Aberdeenshire Scotch.

One old body was as like as could be to an old friend of my childhood, and smiled most benignantly, but could not speak English. Some of the girls and boys are very pretty, and all very civil ; they learn English in the schools. We took our letters to TumbulFs agent, to be sent by the first opportunity — we hope a Leith trawler, at once. The agent was a fine courteous old man, and had a most neat well-appointed house. In it we noticed a beautiful bureau in the Sheraton style, but made in " Kiobenhavn." We walked along a charming rustic road between walls built most skilfully of loose stones, looking as though a touch would knock them over ; saw the monument (a little obelisk) erected to commemorate the King of Denmark's visit in 1874 ; saw various little hay-makings going on in tiny fields like the smallest in the Isle of Wight Undercliff or Landslip, and two small cows in a real sort of "three-acre" field; then went to the church, which is of some pretension.

We could only look in at the windows. It was clean and well kept, very like a Presbyterian kirk, all but the altar, which has a crucifix, two very large candlesticks, and a large picture (of the Descent from the Cross apparently) as an altar-piece. Around the church was a quaint little graveyard, with the graves of a husband and wife ; they had slabs of plain white marble let into upright stones, and inscription to some worthy man and his hustru (wife) ; the mounds were enclosed and decorated with little shell borderings, and extremely neat. There seemed but few other graves. It came on to rain thickly like a soft Scotch mist ; we took shelter by the church for a bit, then A. and D. went off to try fishing a stream they heard of from a little boy. Edith and I sought the photographer, to buy some views.

We found a very nice civil well-dressed girl, who said her aunt took the views ; she spoke a little English. We sat for a bit and looked over the photos, and chose a few ; then the girl kindly showed us the way through the streets to a little hostelry, where we had some nice cups of coffee and biscuits. The landlord came in and talked to us ; he had a dear little dog, a sort of lean dachshund, called "Rappa"; it seemed a great pet, and he gave it sugar. After our refreshment we sallied forth again to one of the piers, and were taken up by a boat, rowed by our old Highlander looking man, and containing sundry of our shipmates, one being Mr. Franz, a Danish merchant, or rather agent, who goes to Iceland to buy sheep. He was asking me as we went along what led me to take so much interest in Iceland.

(I did not attach much importance to this then ; but viewed in the light of some information I received later on, it had rather an amusing significance.) He seems a kind of naturalized Scotchman, and speaks English perfectly. I should fancy him a knowing sort of man. In the boat a German student, also travelling in the Laura, wanted a boy to sing the national song of Iceland — " Eldgamla Isafold," but he would not, being on Danish territory. I suppose the Danes do not like it, as it is in praise of Iceland, and compares Copenhagen unfavourably with it. The boat was very wet, and so were we. Arrived safe on board the Laura, I went and had a dry by the engine. We had cloaks, so were not wet through. A. and D. came back shortly after, drenched ; but changed their clothes, and are now fishing over the taffrail.

The rain seems less now. I have had a little talk with the other Icelander from America — Hrafnkelsson's friend. He is more taciturn, but pleasant when you do speak to him, and so kindly. He said I could soon learn to speak the language if I could read it. He has such a placid face and gentle voice. He was working for a railway company in America : I don't know in what capacity. He, too, is going home to his parents — at Akureyri. 1 2th. — Sunday (the 12th after Trinity). A most lovely morning. Edith and I benefited by the departure of various passengers to the extent of having a cabin each, opposite — so it was quite a luxury to have a little room to take out clean clothes, &c. We stayed some time at Thorshavn, and here we left some English passengers, a Dr. J. and his party. He is bringing out a work on the Faro Islands, we are told.

A number of Faroese came on board, both men and women. Among them, we were much struck by a young man in very neat native dress, who might have been Italian from his appearance. He was remarkably handsome, with black short hair, very well defined arched black eyebrows, grey eyes, short aquiline nose, and handsome mouth and chin ; exceedingly clean and trim, and with a bright pleasant expressions I wished for some of my children's gift of hitting off likenesses, as I tried to make a furtive sketch, under cover of drawing Thorshavn. A typical fisherman I also jotted down. I have annexed some more Iceland friends, rather higher than my first in the social scale : a young schoolmaster minister, just married to a Danish girl : she is going to Iceland for the first time, and cannot speak the language.

I asked the young sheriff — who was his friend — for a little information, and he referred me to his friend, who could speak German ; then I asked my question of him, and the two got into conversation with me. Finally, one of them got an Icelandic book and set me to read. The clergyman told me, in German, that I had a "quite correct pro nunciation." They corrected a few words. If I could find that one of them would like to learn English, we might make a compact and read turn about. I told them I had read some of the old "Bishop's Sagas." They were both very kind and ready to help me, but I feared to bore them. Later on, as I was sketching, the clergyman brought his bride up to look at one of Edith's paintings, which was lying there, and left her sitting ; so I began to tackle her. No Icelandic, scarcely a word of English, German about on a par with mine.

From her I learnt their history and their name — Helgason. I think I shall cultivate her. Anyhow, I have a good chance to refresh my German on this boat. It is rather a bother, however, because, when I want to converse in Icelandic — my sentences, at present, are rather like walking over a ploughed field — the more orally familiar German words keep cropping up and make a muddle. There are two German students on board — funny fellows. One stout, short, and jovial : the other tall, melancholy, and cadaverous. They are steerage, but ubiquitous walking, sitting, lying everywhere, except in the first saloon. One of them was standing near me in the bow, looking over a chart with another man, and tracing out the ship's course among the islands. On my looking over, and asking a question in German, he turned upon me eagerly with " Sprechen sie Deutsch .

" and let loose a flood of rapid conversation upon me- — so rapid that I could not follow him at first. However, we talked on, about books, &c, and I found him very intelligent and apparently well read. He and his chum acquired some Faroese jerseys — thick knitted woollen — and were always strutting about in them afterwards. We left the lovely Thorshavn about io a.m. ; but, really, with Danish time, and such extraordinary meal hours, I never know the time of day. (There is a clock in the saloon, Copenhagen time ; a clock in the smoking deck-cabin, which is kept according to the changing latitude ; and then our watches, which started with Scotch time. Between the three, small wonder if we get a little mixed !) Then we had a most exquisite run to Klakksvig, our last stop now before the longed-for goal.

We were all much struck with the Faroes. I had no idea the forms were so curious and grand. Great deep green hillsides, with horizontal strata of dull reddish-grey rock, in terrace after terrace ; some hills quite pyramidal in shape ; they get closer and closer, till you steam through a land-locked lake calm as a millpond. No lovelier yachting ground could be imagined. The nooks and inlets and positions of the islets suggest a game of hide-and-seek (for giants' children, as ordinary ones play in a rickyard), only yachts might play hide-and-seek for a long time without finding each other. A sharp turn took us into peaceful little Klakksvig. All the Faroese passengers went off here, and our Iceland friends also went ashore in a boat. We did not think it worth while, as we wanted to sketch the curious little place.

The church is ofthe same class as at Thorshavn. We have all been sketching, with varying success. I have written " Klakksvig " and date over the collect for the day in my prayerbook. It will be a curious recollection — some day. There are sharp showers ever and anon ; I suppose these mountainous islands draw them. Just heard the horn blow loudly, sor the natives to come and unload cargo, after church. The echo round and round among the hills is most remarkable. 13th. — Just before we left Klakksvig (about 6 p.m.) we saw a picturesque Norwegian vessel come in, which A. immediately photographed. I stood for a long time at the bow, looking out over the sea. Such a wide grey heaving sea, and such glorious clouds passing across the grey-white western sky, like a great pageant of magnificent forms, in an endless unbroken chain.

The channel through which we pass in making for the open sea is most striking, the high steep forms of the islands, on either side, gradually passing away from us. One cliff struck us as like a cathedral doorway. It is a thrilling, mysterious sensation, to think that we are really going over the wild North Sea now, quite out of sight of land, and to stop no more till we reach our desired haven of Iceland. I spent a delightful time by myself in the bow of the trusty Laura, and did not leave it till twilight was falling and supper time drew near. The trusty Laura has been galloping hard all night, if not taking five-barred gates. I slept comfortably, but lay awake this morning early, and finally got up, I believe, between 6 and 7 ; but I almost give up trying to keep time. I tumbled into my clothes as best I might — doing one's hair is a sad trial — and felt a little queer, but kept right by running to the companion for mouthfuls of air, our ports being locked for the water coming in.

As soon as I could I climbed the stair to the deck-cabin, but very soon ventured out, and a more magnificent sight I never beheld. The swing was something tremendous, yet hardly so much as I could expect. There was no roll, only the steady pitch — the poor little screw constantly coming out of the water, giving a curious rattling stagger for the moment. None but ship's men were visible, but presently appeared Mr. Helgason, and we had a cheerful little German greeting and chat. Poor madame keeps below, and I don't fancy will appear. He says it will probably be smoother in the after noon. Presently they put up two little sails, so we ought to be making way ; besides, we have left the most of our cargo at the Faroes. Helgason says we shall see Iceland to-morrow, about the afternoon. After talking a little, he said, " Lch muss nicht still stehen" — I suppose he only keeps well by walking about, but it looks like acrobat's per formance.

And the cook and steward and stewardess go calmly about, carrying trays, and what not ! I did not say that I had a real lesson yesterday from my new (and at present nameless) friend. He came and sat by me and brought out a little grammar, English and Icelandic. I suggested that we should mutually tell each other the pronunciations in the vocabulary. I think it did me a little good : but it is far from easy, and I should never have believed the dear familiar tongue was such a compound of " eus " and " os " and soft intangible gutturals. German is nowhere! My great word is "ekki" (not), it comes in so often, likewise " mikit " (much) ; and the words I want, and should know perfectly if I were reading, won't come. The good man is just the same ; beating his brains and looking all over the ship for the word he wants.

It was great fun — (we went over a water-jump, I should say, just then !) — and he is so quick at pronouncing and tries so hard. Ch and sh are his great difficulties, such a word as " delicious " taking many tries. Once I asked him if he knew French at all, and he answered " Un peu," so quaintly. Icelanders speak so softly and prettily. I wonder if he will come to the front to-day ! Ten o'clock by the ship's clock, and no hint of breakfast. I have had two instalments of coffee and cocoa — the latter our own — and rusks and biscuits. The meals seem endless sources of amusement. The everlasting little plates of different-coloured hams and tongues and strips of " lax ' look as if they came up over and over again exactly the same, and are very comic ; and then the glee of the voracious English people at our end, when something more tangible comes on !