Marocco and the Moors ... Second edition, revised and edited by Sir R. Burton, etc

Front matter

THE SULTAN GOING TO MOSQUE. [Frontispiece By kind permission. From a Photograph by S.A.T.R. El Principe Fblipb de Uokbon v Bkaganza. MAEOCCO AND THE MOOES : BEING AN ACCOUNT OF TRAVELS, WITH A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY AND ITS PEOPLE. BY ARTHUR LEARED, M.D. Oxox., F.R.C.P., FELLOW OF THE EOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, MEMBER OF THE ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY* AND OF THE ICELANDIC LITERARY SOCIETY, COPENHAGEN, ETC. SECOND EDITION, revised and edited by SIR RICHARD BURTON, K.C.M.G. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. ponton : SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEAELE, & EIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. D UNSTAN'S HOUSE, FETTER LANE, E.C. NEW YORK: SCEIBNEE & WELFOED. 1891. [All rights reserved.] PEEFACE. I endeavour in the work thus presented to the public to give an account of what I saw and heard in a country almost as little known as any in the Avorld.

It was my habit while travelling in Ma rocco to note down everything that seemed worth recording. But in order to make up for length of personal observation, I supplemented this with in formation derived from residents in the country. In this respect I am especially indebted to Horace White, Esq., H.B.M. Consul, and to M. Lambert, at Tangier ; to Charles Murdoch and George Hunot, H.B.M. Vice-Consul, Esqs., at Saffi ; and to M. Beaumier, Consul of France, and Thomas Yule, George Broom, and Judah Yuly, Esqs., at Mogador. I own to being one of those who prefer a plain narrative, such as is found in the works of the

Preface

. IV older travellers, to those of more modern style,. and even plead guilty to a desire to be instructive. While, therefore, every effort has been made to insure accuracy of statement, no one will, I hope, be disappointed at finding an entire absence of smart writing. One thing held in view has been to bring into notice, as much as possible, the incomparable climates to be found in Marocco for persons suffering from affections of the chest. The difficulty of travelling in Marocco accounts for the few books Avhich have appeared on the subject in modern times. The work of Gerhard Rohlfs, "Adventures in Morocco," admirably, but anonymouslj', translated into English, is mainly taken up with what its name imports. It con tains, however, much valuable information, and, even after allowing for the difficulty of arriving at truth in that country, some strange inaccu racies. A. L. Nov. 1,

Introduction

. After a lapse of fifteen years — years so change ful and prolific of progress to England, so lan guorous and monotonous to Marocco — a reprint of the work by my late friend, Dr. Arthur Leared, is required by the public ; and Mrs. Leared has honoured me with a request for a few lines expressing my opinion of the author's travel-tale. " Marocco and the Moors " is the work of a learned physician, a skilled practitioner, an observer of no common powers, and a genial, liberal, travelled man, well known in Iceland and in westernmost Mauritania — Maghribu '1-Aksa. The object of the book is by no means literary, nor does the author attempt to rival VI introduction. M. Tissot in geographical or antiquarian research, to emulate Herr Gerhardt Rohlfs in romantic and perilous adArenture, or to draw admirable word pictures like Signor Edmondo de Amicis.

His style is not " smart," as he confesses in his preface ; but it suits right well his main object, to portray, soberly and correctly, the scenes and places which meet the traveller's eye. His specialty, viz., philanthropic professional studies, had convinced him that the Sanitaria of Southern Europe offer but few advantages to the large class of invalids in whom he had eArer taken peculiar interest ; and he presently came honestly to the conclusion that Mediterranean Tangier, like remote Mogador, has a climate of sovereign efficacy for those suffering from pulmonary affections. In early September, 1872, Dr. Leared first touched ground at Tangier, now an open road stead, once a fine artificial and well-fortified harbour. Here the traveller is first introduced to Maroccan town-life. The Customhouse shed on thc foul Marina (strand) is exceedingly primitive, a hangar tenanted by turbaned and long-bearded Malignants who let the rich pass

INTRODUCTION.

. VII scot-free and who miserably plunder the poor. A wretched ramp leads up to the mass of the settlement, the venerable Tingis of the Classics and Tanjah of the Moslems, shoAving all the stagnation of dirty and decrepit old age. The streets, made for camels not for carriages, are rock-paved alleys like torrent-beds, which serve mainly for drains, sewers, cesspools : here every kind of festering offal offends eye and nostril, from poultry -feathers and kitchen-slops to corpse of rat and cat — dead baby not being wholly unknown. The tenements are the normal mixture of huge white-washed palace, dingy pauper hovel and tumble-do _vn ruin ; the shops are holes in the walls ; the mosque doorways are screened lest KMr glance pollute these holy barns, and the Siiks, or market-places, are alternately sheets of mud, viscid and ankle-deep, and dust-heaps, fit dAvellings for microbes and playgrounds for the winds.

And this mass of impurities is girt by fortifications, walls and bastions, built to resist six-pounders. Yet close behind and north of such abominations is a breezy upland of natural turf, crowning the cliffs and stretching about a mile in length

INTRODUCTION.

. by half that breadth. Upon the sandstone rock face, here and there dotted with oblong hollows, locally called "Phœnician graves," the pure Mediterranean wave ever breaks, and there is a constant alternation of winds, now a zephyr, then a gale, between the Atlantic Ocean and the Midland Sea. My daily constitutionals, mostly in this direction, supplied me with a prophylactic against the heat and fumes of the fetid town. Here the late Lord St. Maur built a villa, noAv occupied by the Sherif and Sheri'fah of Wazan, and here Dr. Leared secured a piece of land sufficient for his intended Sanitarium. Tangier, noAv a replica of Egyptian Suez during the barbarous days before the OA'erland Transit, has a manifest destiny in the near future. She is the only terminus of the railway which presently must connect the seaboard with the sundry capitals of the " Shereefian Empire," and which will subdue the refractory and re bellious tribes of Southern Sus and of the furthermost interior.

Under two generations of Hays — father and son — this threshold of a luxuriant desert was reduced to the humble role of supplying the garrison of " Gib '' with its daily

INTRODUCTION.

. IX ration of beef : the idea was suggested by Nelson, and has been carried out by systematically foster ing native barbarism. Even the telephone con cessions lay for years in the obscurity of the concessionnaire's pocket or pigeon-hole. Naturally enough, this do-nothing policy, this " masterly inactivity," found huge favour with the Moors, a savage people, sharp-witted Avithal, who have studied and duly appreciated the wild and reckless havock which " Civilisation," versus Native Rule, has Avrought and still works in the Nile Yalley. But these " Barbari " are fighting a losing fight. The time is coming when France aud Spain, the Powers most interested in the matter will, by perpetual pressure, get the better of some softer headed " Caliph of our lord Mohammed, enthroned by Allah his will ; " and the steamwhistle on the Tangier-Fez railroad shall destroy not only " feudalism," but fanaticism and privacy, lethargy and independence.

Nor will the European occu pant, after the danger and damage of defeating a nation of sous furieux, of fanatics brave to desperation, find great difficulty of securing his conquests. The invader has only to follow the frontier-policy of ancient Borne, ably imitated by X

INTRODUCTION.

. the modern Briton. He will buy Maroccans to fight Maroccans ; pay them liberally, officer them ably, and arm them efficiently. Wild races always and everywhere proAre how greatly gold downweighs patriotism. You can always rule the Moslem by telling him the truth, by dealing with him honestly, and by respecting his women and his religion. Dr. Leared's first travel in Marocco was by sea, and steamer-trips led him from Tangier down coast. He broke the \royage, however, by sundry excursions inland, especially from Mogador to the capital, returning by the Safi or northern line. He saw the city of the Sherif without seeing the Sherif, and he and his companion incurred no little risk — the party out of power, the oppo sition, would haAre made capital by the Kafirs' death. On a subsequent occasion, in 1877, he Avas more fortunate.

He also visited (a.d. 1877) Al-Kasru '1-Kabir, or "Great Palace," the Portuguese Alcacerquivir, where Dom Sebastiam lost his army and his life ; and he described the ruins of the famous Tingitano-Roman city Volubilis, a name which had almost dropped out of history. I have

INTRODUCTION.

. XI strongly advised that those pages be introduced into the Appendix of the Second Edition. The Maroccan interior is no longer "far less known than such remote countries as China and Japan." Every year opens up new regions, and brings us fresh information. A single Athenæum (No. 3232) reviews one book ("La Martini ere's "), and announces another by the late Mr. Richard Wake, of Tangier. Yet the public will not readily forget its old and trustworthy sources of information, and as such I can conscientiously recommend to them Dr. Leared's " Marocco and the Moors." Richard F. Burton. Trieste, October 1, 1890. CONTENTS, CHAPTEE I. PAGE Voyage — Tangier ....... 1 CHAPTEE II. An Excursion from Tangier ..... 40 CHAPTEE III. Casa Blanca ........ 51 CHAPTEE IV. Mazagan ......... 59 CHAPTEE V. Mogador .........

GG CHAPTEE VI. Excursions from Mogador BO contents. XIV CHAPTEE VII. PAGE -Journey to the City of Marocco 97 CHAPTEE VIII. Residence in the City of Marocco . . . .119 CHAPTEE IX. The City and its Neighbourhood .... 154 CHAPTEE X. Marocco to Saffi . . . . . . . .182 CHAPTEE XI. Saffi 192

CHAPTER XII.

Azamoor, and a Bide at Night ..... 202 CHAPTEE XIII. The Country and the People 208

CHAPTER XIV.

Government, LaAV, and Military Power . . 289 CHAPTEE XV. Education, Eeligion, Superstitions, the Healing Art . 2G1 contents. XV CHAPTEE XVI. PAGE Agriculture, Domestic Animals, Manufactures, Money . 279 CHAPTEE XVII. Natural History and Sport 297 APPENDICES. A. The Site of the Boman City Volubilis .... 321 B. The Sultan's Passport 330 C. The Drugs in use amongst the Moors .... LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE The Sultan going to Mosque . . . Frontispiece Map of Marocco showing Author's Boute . To face page 1 Tangier, the Landing-place 3 Old Map of Country about Tangier .... 7 Village of Conical-shaped Huts ..... 63 Plan of the Town of Mogador G8 Mogador from the Sea 70 Tattoo Mark 91 Moorish Costume — full dress . . . . 132 City of Marocco 140 Snake-charmer ......'. 142 Map of the City of Marocco 155 Cabalistic Charm against Scorpions .... 173 Tail-piece, with Camels ...... 181 Our Halting-place on the Tensift .... 182 Diagram to sIioav the Growth of an OliA'e-tree . . 199 Moors on a Journey . . . . . . .215 Tail-piece, with Tower 238 Buins of Boman City of Volubilis . . . 322, 323 Fac-simile of Sultan's Passport 331 Copper Vessel for Holding Flower Water . . . J.Gftiticn TiirJi •: I S'-ng 'Ewaa-.m. MAROCCO AND THE MOORS.

Chapter I. Tangier

If going by sea, it is hardly necessary at the present day to say how one arriAred at any particular place. Steam has made the shores of most countries easy of access, and in this respect Marocco — a country comparatively near England — forms no exception. But the circumstance which calls for remark is the faet, that far less is known of the interior of Marocco than of such remote countries as China and Japan. I left Southampton in the "Mongolia," and reached Gibraltar on the fifth day afterwards. It was a fair \royage, and, by the aid of agreeable society, passed pleasantly away. A word may be said here of the maligned Bay of Biscay. Its waters are often smoother than those of the Channel. Poets and ballad-niougers have done c MAEOCCO AND THE MOORS. it injustice, and "Biscay's sleepless bay " is more frequently tranquil than is commonly supposed.

It is not my intention to say anything about the famous rock so often described, which I left on the day after my arrival. Communication is maintained with Tangier by means of Messrs. Blands' boats, the " Hercules " and " Gibel taric," Avhich, Aveather permitting, go daily. The Transatlantic Company's boats come eA^ery Monday most punctually, and many others. The "Jackal," belonging to Cowan & Co., in which I embarked, AAras a small but strongly-built steamboat, well adapted for the tumbling water of the Straits. The mountains of the African coast, Avhich Avere in A'icw AA'hen leaA'ing Gibraltar, stood out in bolder outline as Ave approached them. But the first clearly defined object was the ruin of a Roman bridge i close to the shore, and a short distance eastward lay the quaint old toAvn.

To do Tangier justice it should be vieAved only from the sea — ■ to put one's foot Avithin the Avails is to dispel an illusion. Its mosques and flat-roofed houses, batteries, and castellated Avails give it a compact and even formidable appearance ; but it is for midable only to the Avild hordes of the country.3 1 This bridge has almost all fallen now. The Duke of West minster has a fine painting of it, taken some years before I saAv it, in his mansion in Park Lane. - It has been much fortified of late, even with Armstrong's. {To face sage 3. THE LANDING PLACE, TANGIER. TANGIER. 3 There is no harbour at Tangier ; the mole built by the English more than two centuries ago was destroyed by them when they abandoned the place. But the anchorage in the open roadstead is good. The coast is, however, subject to heaAry surf, which is a drawback to all the southern ports.

Our steamer anchored at a considerable dis tance from the shore, and Marocco being advanced enough to A^alue health, the first thing that approached was the quarantine boat, in which sat a quasi-medical officer, an aquatic-looking Spaniard, who, without coming on board, soon despatched the formalities of his office. Other boats followed, into which the passengers transferred themselves, and were rowed as far as the shoaling water permitted. As soon as these grounded, a crew of yelling Jews rushed to meet us, up to their waists in water, and then com menced the fiercest competition for business pos sible to conceive. Unhappily, being a stranger, I became the centre of the tumult. It Avas almost as useless to resist as it was to remonstrate. All wanted to carry me ashore, but as only one coidd effect this, it almost seemed as though I should be torn limb from limb by the eager crowd.

At last, having selected a lusty fellow, and got astride his shoulders, I Avas landed on the beach.3 The landing-place, called the Marina, consisted 3 Now this is all changed ; there is a small pier, so passengers have not all this inconvenience. of a smooth portion of the sandy shore enclosed within Avails. Here we were met by the captain of the port, a fine-looking Moor of commanding presence. We Avere then conducted to the Custom house, a mere shed, under Avhich the turbaned officials sat upon their mats. The scrutiny of our baggage, although rather exact, was effected with politeness. The competition commenced in the water was equally keen on land. A different, but no less eager, set of porters seized and squabbled over the luggage : added to this there was the same persecution from the touting tribe with which all travellers are familiar.

To these gentry, who spoke a little of many languages, was entrusted the recommendation of the Ararious hotels ; and, as usual, each represented the establishment to which he belonged to be the best in the world, and consequently greatly superior to that of any of its neighbours. Among these worthies there was a Moor, conspicuous by his jacket of cherry coloured cloth as well as by his confident bearing. This Avas the redoubtable Hadj-Ivaddur, who must be known to every one who visits Tangier. He afteiwards for some time followed my fortunes. Finding that he represented the Victoria Hotel, to which I had been recommended, I placed myself under his guidance.4 A stay of some weeks at 1 This hotel is now done away with, and its place has been taken by the Printemps, which is doing a good business.

TANGIER this house afforded ample opportunity for observing the town and neighbourhood, and these I shall now describe. In several respects there is an analogy between Dover and Calais, Gibraltar and Tangier. The respective places are separated by narroAv straits almost of the same breadth. In both cases, when the narrow seas are crossed, the traveller finds himself in a country very unlike that he has recently left, the people being wholly different in language, habits, and mode of life. But if this is the case in the north, the difference is tenfold in the south. He crosses from what may be termed a bit of England on outpost duty to the land of the Moor. No transformation effected by a fairy wand could well be more complete. Tan gier, known to the Romans as Tingis, was the capital of their province Mauritania Tingitana.

It afterwards passed successively into the hands of the Goths and the Saracens, and thus came into possession of the mixed race known to us as the Moors. It was taken, in 1471, by Alphonso, King of Portugal, after a severe struggle. King Edward, the father of Alphonso, had previously besieged the toAvn, but had been compelled to beat a hasty retreat, and to leave his brother Ferdinand in the hands of the Moors as a security that Ceuta should be delivered up. England had at one time a great interest in the place. It formed part of the dowry of Catherine, the Infanta of Portugal, who married Charles II. But the gift, like the proverbial Avhite elephant, caused more trouble than it was worth. It is probable that the Portuguese were only too glad to get rid of so worthless a possession, for only just before parting with it they met with a serious rebuff.

The matter is thus described in Lord Sandwich's Journal, 1662 : — " Sunday, January 12th, ] 662. — This morning the Portuguese, 140 horse in Tangier, made a sally into the country for booty, whereof they had possessed about 400 cattle, thirty camels, and some horse, and thirty-five women and girls, and being six miles distant from Tangier, were inter cepted by 100 Moors, with harquebusses, who in the first charge killed the A'idill with a shot in the head, whereupon the rest of the Portuguese ran, and in the pursuit fifty-one were slain, whereof Avere eleven of the Knights besides the A'idill. The horses of the fifty-one were also taken by the Moors, and all the booty relieved. " Tuesday, January lith. — This morning, Mr. Mules came to me from the Governor for the assistance of some of our men into the castle.

" Thursday, January \§th. — About eighty men out of my own ship and the 'Princess' went into Tangier, into the lower castle, about four of the clock in the afternoon. " Friday, January 17 th. — In the morning by eight o'clock the ' Martyn ' came in from Cales OLD MAP OF HARBOUR AND COUNTRY ABOUT TANGIER. [To face page J. From Ogilby's "Africa?' London , 1670. TANGIER. (Cadiz) with provisions, and about ten o'clock I sent Sir Richard Stayner with 120 men, besides officers, to the assistance of the Governor into Tangier." One hundred more men were sent from the fleet into Tangier on the 23rd ; and meanwhile, Lord Peterborough and the garrison haAring arrived from England, Tangier Avas handed over to him by the Portuguese, January 30th, 1662. Next day Sir Richard Stayner and the sailors embarked.

Great expectations were formed about Tangier, and it engaged, to a large extent, the attention of the GoArernment of that period. Pepys, in his Diary, makes frequent mention of the place. A commission, presided over by the Duke of York, sat weekly to manage its affairs, and of this commission Pepys himself was treasurer. Large sums of money were voted by Parliament for the garrison of horse and foot soldiers, and for strengthening the fortifications. A mole, which extended nearly 2,000 feet into the sea, was also constructed. This was strongly fortified Avith batteries, and a harbour was formed capable of containing the largest vessels. Old maps of this period show that it must have been a secure harbour. The English, like the Portuguese, suffered severely at the hands of their wily enemies the Moors.

The garrison lived in a state of perpetual warfare, and were constantly harassed by ambus cades. Lord Peterborough being recalled in 1663, the Earl of Teviot was sent to replace him. This unfortunate nobleman was attacked by a noted Riff chieftain, named Guyland, at the head of a Avild horde, and lost his life together with nineteen officers and a large number of men. This event is thus quaintly described by Pepys under date of June 2nd, 1664 :— " It seems my Lord Teviott's design was to go a mile and a half out of the town, to cut down a wood in which the enemy did use to lie in ambush. He had sent several spyes ; but all brought word that the Avay was clear, and so might be, for anybody's discovery of an enemy before you are upon them. There they were all snapt, he and all his officers, and about 200 men, as they say ; there being now left in the garrison but four captains.

This happened the 3rd of May last, being not before that day twelvemonth of his entering into his govern ment there ; but at his going out in the morning he said to some of his officers, ' Gentlemen, let us look to ourselves, for it was this day three years that so many braAre Englishmen were knocked on the head by the Moors, when Fines made his sally out.' " Many other losses were subsequently incurred. Although the place was strengthened by redoubts erected on the neighbouring hills, the town was constantly besieged by the Moors; and notAvith- TANGIER. 9 standing a lavish expenditure, it was found that the place was kept in bad condition OAving to jobbery and a misapplication of funds. At length, in relation to Tangier, the nation became impatient of the constant drain upon its resources.

Under date of April 9th, 1667, Pepys writes that he told Sir W. Coventry, " It is plain that we do overspend our revenue ; it is of no more profit to the King than it was the first day, nor in itself of better credit, no more people of condition willing to live there, nor anything like a place likely to turn his Majesty to accoimt ; that it hath been hitherto, and for ought I see, likely only to be used as a job to do a kindness to some Lord, or he that can get to be Governor." But worse than expense and loss of life was the impression which soon preA^ailed in the House of Commons, that the garrison of Tangier was fast becoming the nucleus of a Popish army. This was a death-bloAV to the place as an English colony. Lord Dartmouth was despatched to bring home the troops, and to destroy the work of the en gineers.

In a letter to Mr. Pepys, dated January 11th, 1683-4, his lordship says, "You will easily imagine the condition we have beene in, by the ill weather you have beene witness of where you haATe beene, but God be thanked we have struggled in it so farr that the mole is totally destroyed ; nay much more than you will imagine, till you see it." Thus the place was giA'en up after an occupation of twenty-two years, and as there was no disposition to assist the Moors in their piratical expeditions the unfinished harbour was destroyed. When the tide is out the foundations of the mole can still be seen, and show the substantial nature of the structure. It was intended to haAre made a splendid harbour, with depth of water between the pier-heads capable of floating a seventy-gun ship of the period. Since the evacuation by the English, Tangier has remained in possession of the Moors.

Pepys says, " A fine map of Tangier was done by one Captain Beckman, a Swede." Many curious Ariews of the place were made by Hollar, and some of them were engraA'ed by him and still exist. Lord Nelson declared the possession of Tangier would be necessary to England in case she was at war Avith a maritime power. This was because Gibraltar depends for subsistence as much upon Marocco as it does upon Spain, which latter country might be hostile, or else be preArented from affording supplies. Like Tangier, the island of Bombay formed part of the doAvry of the Infanta of Portugal, wife of Charles II. Who could then foresee the subsequent value of that small possession, or what a focus for the extension of British power it has since become? And although, through mismanagement, Tangier proved to be a worse than useless possession, it is not improbable that had it been retained it also would have become a centre endowed with a like TANGIER. vitality and Avith a similar power of growth.

In that case a land far more accessible than India, with a soil and climate among the most favoured in the world, Avould now be yielding rich returns. Immense tracts which at present lie waste would be used for the growth of cotton ; and a strong but just government would exist in place of an uncertain and grinding tyranny. The rise of tide at Gibraltar, just outside the tideless Mediterranean, is four feet ; at Tangier it reaches a height of six feet. The town is built on the sloping side of a promontory, which, with its fellow four or five miles to the eastAvard, forms the bay. The toAvn is sheltered on the north and west by the hills under Avhich it lies, and on the east by a range of low hills, Avhile behind these and far inland thc range of the Lower Atlas, which is visible from the Kasba, protects it from the scorching desert winds.

The town nestles under a cliff. At the summit of the cliff is a flat surface of about a mile in length, and a varying breadth not exceeding a few hundred yards. The side of the promontory farthest from the town is very precipitous, and overhangs the sea. There are here some curious excavations in the solid rock, supposed to be Phœnician graAres. Wherever the Mohammedan dwells, the rigid jealousy with Avhich women are guarded influences the style of his architecture. The houses have their backs turned to the streets, and, as there are no windows, the blank walls and flat roofs present a cheerless and monotonous appearance. A gateway leads into the square or patio. Around this the house is built. The enclosure sometimes contains a fountain, and a fig-tree generally affords pleasant shade from the glaring rays of the sun.

As seen from the sea, the houses of Tangier appear to stand one above the other like steps. As might therefore be expected, many of the streets are very steep, and all, with the exception of the main street, are mere Avinding lanes, so narrow that in some of them the inhabitants could shake hands from the opposite windows provided these existed. The pavement consists of rough stones, placed purposely, one would think, to make walking over them as difficult as possible. Blondin, who visited the place, left a memorial in the visitors' book of one of the hotels to the effect that it was needless for him to test his balancing powers here, "because he was able to say that he had walked both up and down the main street of Tangier and had not fallen." The drainage, although imperfect, is better than might be ex pected, and an attempt at keeping the streets clean has been made by the Consuls.

Dust-bins arc things unknown to the natives of Marocco, and animal and vegetable offal of all kinds is thrown into the streets; but this debris is now removed on the backs of donkeys, though there still remains TANGIER. much room for improvement. There are no bazaars on the scale usual in the East ; but the shops for \rarious wares are for the most part mixed together. The " shop " is a small square caA'ity in the dead Avail of the street, the floor being about two feet from the ground. Pigeon-holed in these recesses sit cross-legged, graArclooking men surrounded by their wares. The same floor also serves the customers for a seat, though their legs dangle in the street. In a few instances the introduction of European customs may be ob served in larger premises and glass windows. The principal street runs up the hill from the Avater-side to the S6k or market-place, just outside the walls.

The upper part of this street is used by the female sellers of bread, milk, A'egetables, and fruit, who stand or sit ranged on each side. It is difficult for a stranger to find his way through the mazes of the smaller streets. But rich Moors and JeAvs possess good houses in these confined situa tions. There is no Jewish quarter in Tangier as there is in most Moorish towns, but the Israelites liAre peaceably amongst the general population. Some of the consulates are good houses, aDd the residence of the British Plenipotentiary has some fine apartments. The batteries facing the sea were once formidable. I Avent over one of these in company with Colonel Mathews. The buildings are in fair repair, but the absence of sentries and the lounging attitude of the feAv artillery men in charge looked anything but Avar-like.