Through Central Asia. With a map and appendix on the diplomacy and delimitation of the Russo-Afghan frontier ... With ... illustrations

Appendix

ON THE DIPLOMACY AND DELIMITATION OF THE RUSSO-AFGHAN FRONTIER BY HENRY LANSDELL, D.D. MR.A.S., F.R.G.S. AUTHOR OF "THROUGH SIBERIA*' AND "RUSSIAN CENTRAL ASIA, INCLUDING KULDJA, BOKHARA KHIVA AND MERV" WITH SEVENTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS Hotifcon SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON ST. DUNSTAN'S HOUSE, FETTER LANE, E.C. 1887 ■ [All rights reserved.] BY THE SAME AUTHOR. R USSIAN CENTRAL ASIA: INCLUDING KULDJA, BOKHARA, KHIVA, AND MERV. In two Volumes, 42s. THROUGH SIBERIA. In one Volume, \os. 6d. Library Edition, 2 Vols., 30s. Of which latter about 20 Copies only remain. For further particulars see p. 669. Printed by Hazell, Watsan, & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury.

Preface

. TH E recent settlement of the Russo-Afghan Frontier question has suggested the present as a suitable time to meet a wish that has been expressed for a popular edition of my larger work on " Russian Central Asia, including Kuldja, Bokhara, Khiva, and Merv." It suggested also the desirability of adding an Appendix, showing the course of events and diplomatic correspondence which led to the appointment of the Afghan Boundary Commission, and of giving a sketch of the manner in which the delimitation had been performed. Upon inquiry at the libraries of the Royal Geographical Society and at the India Office for a compendium on the subject, I was told that no such summary existed. I have endeavoured, therefore, to make one from the Blue Books at the India Office, and from letters supplied, by officers on the Commission, to the Times of London and the Pioneer of fndia, some of the latter of which, up to the return of the major portion of the Indian escort, have appeared in " Travels with the Afghan Boundary Commission," by Lieut. A. C. Yate.

In condensing material and making extracts from the Blue Books on Central Asian Correspondence from 1872, I have been careful frequently to give dates or other clues whereby those who wish to examine matters more minutely can readily refer to the sources quoted ; and I would take this opportunity to thank the officials at the India Office for their courtesy and readiness to afford me assistance. PREFA CE. IV The student and specialist who may desire further information concerning Central Asia generally, and not merely the ground over which I travelled, I venture to refer to my larger work of 1,500 pages, which gives 4,300 species of fauna and flora in about twenty lists with introductions, adds a bibliography of 700 titles, and treats more or less fully of the geography, economy and administration, ethnology, antiquities, history, meteorology, geology, zoology, and botany of all parts of Russian Turkistan, Kuldja, Bokhara, Khiva, and Turkmenia, down to the frontier of Afghanistan.

The present work is chiefly a personal narrative, many whole chapters, and most of the notes, of the large edition being omitted, except such as refer to patriarchal and Persian customs, which have been appreciated as throwing light upon Biblical ethnography. Subsequently to the sheets being printed, or nearly so, my attention was called to a book entitled " In Russian and French Prisons," by P. Kropotkine, wherein my name figures as "a Foreigner on Russian Prisons," and my testimony is called in question. On reading the book I found that its chapters were for the most part reprints of articles which have appeared in the periodical press. They were before me, I believe, when I published, two years since, my chapter, " Do we know the Truth about Siberian Prisons ? " but to this the author has not alluded in his recently pub lished pages, so that I have merely to refer the reader to Chapters xx. — xxii. for my opinion on such prisons as I have visited throughout Russia. H. L. The Grove, Blackheath, London, S.E. 30M September, 1887. i CONTENTS. Preface . iii List of Illustrations ■ xviii Observanda , xx

Chapter I. Introductory

Intention to cross the Steppe frustrated in 1879. — Considered afresh in 1882. — Distribution of religious literature desirable. — Reasons for and against the venture. — The way cleared. — My objects chiefly religious. — Help of Bible and Tract Societies. — Plans in relation thereto. — Additional objects. — Failure anticipated by some. — Fears entertained by others. — The start

Chapter II. From London To The Urals

Five routes to Central Asia. — Departure for Petersburg. — Favourable reception. — Official letters and favours.— Scientific acquaintances and introductions. — Departure for Moscow. — National Exhibition and St. Saviour's Cathedral. —Mr. Alfred Sevier as interpreter. — Our arrival at Perm. — Purchase of tarantass and medicines. — Departure for the Urals. — Tract distribution. — Arrested and brought back to Perm. — Examined and released with apologies. — My own fault. — Exaggerated reports in newspapers. — A fresh start . . . ■ 9

Chapter III. From The Urals To Omsk

Books overtaken : their numbers, kinds, and languages. — Acquaintanceships renewed at Tiumen. — Success of former efforts. — Books for future supply of exiles. — Testimonies to their thankfulness for Scriptures distributed. — Final equipment, and introductions. — New Siberian steamer. — M. Ignatoff's generosity. — River voyage. — Sale of books on deck. — Interview with Governor of Tobolsk. — Visit to cemetery and Archbishop. — Voyage up the Irtish. — Cheap provisions. — Fellow-passengers. — Arrival at Omsk PAGE 37 62 CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. From Omsk To Semipolatinsk

Description of town of Omsk. — Cause of its decline. — Schools. — Visits to inhabitants and institutions. — Dinner with Governor. — Protestant pastor and distribution of books. — Departure southwards. — Cossack stations. — Summer appearance of steppe. — Arrival at Pavlodar. — Scriptures sold to Muhammadans, advice to contrary notwithstanding. — Cheap provisions.- — Roads to mining districts. — Recruits on the march. — Meeting the Governor-General. — Skirting the Irtish. — Change of landscape. — Improved fauna and flora.— Arrival at Semipolatinsk .

Chapter V. From Semipolatinsk To Sergiopol

' Semipolatinsk " : its etymology, situation, and meteorology. — ■ Call on Governor. — Visits to prison and asylum. — Schools. — Post Office statistics. — Trade. — Our start delayed. — Departure, roads, and posting service. — Sunday at Sergiopol. — Distribution of books from the capital and onwards. — Antiquities and remarkable skulls. — Mineral deposits. — A previous English traveller. — Lake Ala-Kul : its aspect, ornithology, lizards, and fish. — The Central Asian " Kulan " . . -53

Chapter VI. From Sergiopol To Altyn-immel

Departure from Sergiopol. — Miserable station at Djus Agach. — Desiccated lake-bed near Ala-Kul. — Arganatinsk. — View of Lake Balkhash. — " Ehbi " wind and sandstorm. — Lepsinsk station. — Accelerated posting. — Branch road to Lepsinsk colony. — Arasan sulphur baths. — Kopal. — Arrival at Altyn- Immel ...........

Chapter VII. From Al Tyn-immel To Kuidja

The Altyn-Immel Pass. — A sick telegraphist, and Tatar. — Nomads of the Province. — Borokhudzir nursery. — Ruined towns, and Solons. — Kuldja mining. — Chinchakhodzi. — History of Hi valley: its colonization, rebellion, and occupation by Russians. — Arrival at Kuldja. — The Hi Valley, midway between Turanian and Chinese races. — The Taranchis : their dress and habitations. — The Dungans ; Solons ; and Sibos. — Visit to a Sibo encampment. — Their household gods, and sick people. — The Kalmuks : their physical and mental characteristics. — Administration under Geluns and Zangs. — Kalmuk religion, family life, and marriage . . . . . . . . CONTENTS. VII PACE 88 "7

Chapter VIII. Our Sta

Y IN KULDJA. Hospitality at the Russian Consulate.— Visit to Taranchis and Sibos. — Crossing the Hi with Cossack escort. — Roman Catholics in Kuldja. — The Russian Church. — A request from Roman Catholics for religious service. — Distribution of Scriptures. — Steadfastness of Chinese Christians. — Visit to Buddhist temple. — Dungan and Taranchi mosques. — Visits to Chinese Police-master, and Commissariat officer. — Sale of Scriptures. — Taranchi, Chinese, and Sart bazaars. — Character of trade, prices, and coins. — Native restaurants. — Industrial buildings. — Visit to a Kalmuk tent. — Exploration of Kalmuk camping-grounds. — Colonel Prejevalsky's journey to Lob Nor. — Russian and English explorers of the Hi valley

Chapter IX. From Kuldja To Altyn-immel

A visit to Colonel Mayevsky. — Native preference for Russian rule, and why. — Kuldja restored to China. — Emigration of natives into Russian territory. — Our departure from Kuldja. — Destruction of cattle by beasts of prey. — Suidun. — Three classes of Chinese. — Interview with Chinese Governor-General. — Refreshments followed by questions. — Opium-smoking. — A Chinese artist. — Governor- General's present. — A messenger awaiting us at Borokhudzir . . . . . . .107

Chapter X. From Altyn-immel To Vierny

Route over Chulak hills. — The Hi bridge. — Trans-Ili Ala-Tau mountains. — Appearance of town and houses. — Diversity of population ; races and classes. — Introduction to M. von Ghern. — Poor hotel. — Mercantile acquaintances and sale of Scriptures. — Scriptures for prisons and hospitals. — Visit to Archbishop. — Need of Scriptures and tracts in the vernacular

Chapter XI. The Kirghese

Resemblance of Kirghese nomads to Hebrew patriarchs.— Primeval character of the steppe. —Existence there of Biblical customs : whence came they ? — Origin of Kara-Kirghese and Kirghese Kazaks : their diseases and character. — Kirghese habitations and tombs. — Dresses and ornaments, — Settled agricultural Kirghese. — Semi-Nomads. — Nomad Kirghese : their cattle, sheep, and goats. — Changing pasture, when and how conducted. — Stationary pastoral life. — Polygamy. — Kirghese betrothal. — The Kalim and presents, with rules pertaining. — Marriage CONTENTS. VIII PACE ceremonies. — The bride's departure. — Kirghese marriage, a civil contract. — Dissolvable by separation or divorce, with laws concerning each. — Marriage with deceased brother's widow. — Laws concerning inheritance. — Illustrations of Hebrew pastoral life, and suggested source of Kirghese customs . . . 127

Chapter XII

A VISIT TO THE NOMADS. Visit to Kirghese at Suigati. — Their tents. — A Kirghese memorial. — Milk and other beverages, with flour food. — A mutton feast. — Kirghese politeness, and right of precedence. — Connubial arrangements. — Myself questioning and questioned. — Kirghese poetry and songs. — Their religion : Muhammadan, Pagan, or Manichean ?— Kirghese registered as Muhammadans. — New Testaments accepted. — Conversation upon the state after death. — Influence of the mullahs. — Kirghese election of judicial officers. — Native courts and fines. — Judgment and judges. — Election of a volost chief. — Laws concerning assault. — A fight quelled 144

Chapter XIII. From Vierny To Tashkend

Departure from Vierny. — Journey to Kastek.— Branch road to Issik-Kul. — Arrival at Suigati. — Nogai Bi's cattle. — The River Chu. — An aul of Kirghese. — Birth and naming of children. — Pishpek botanical garden. — Setting a Yemstchik's leg. — Aulie-Ata. — Kirghese wares, industries, and commercial customs. — Visit to Aulie-Ata's tomb. — Muhammadan offerings and religious feasting. — Analogies in Christendom. — Departure from Aulie-Ata. — Journey along the Aris. — Chimkent uyezd, its houses and chief town. — Road through gardens. — Arrival at Tashkend 157

Chapter XIV. Our Stay At Tashkend

Asiatic and Russian Tashkend. — Visit to the Governor-General. — Arrangements for distribution of Scriptures, and my onward journey. — Visits to synagogues and the military hospital. — Asylum for the aged. — The officers' club . . . . . 171

Chapter XV. Our Stay At Tashkend

{Continued). Bible work at Tashkend. — Visit to M. Oshanin at the Museum. — Antiquities and curiosities. — Assistance from Colonel Maieff. — Visit to Asiatic Tashkend. — Purchase of Sart curiosities. — CONTENTS. IX PAGE 193 220 Household commodities. — Imports and exports of Tashkend. — Visit to seminary for training teachers, and to the observatory. —Visit to Colonel Serpitzky at the camp. — Distribution of religious literature. — The public library. — Dining with the Governor-General. — Arrangements for departure . . . 179

Chapter XVI. From Tashkend To Khokand

Journey from Tashkend. — Steppe vegetation. — An unruly horse. — Fortified post-stations. — Approach to Khojend. — Sand barkhans. — Arrival at Khokand. — Lodging in summer residence of Tim Bek. — M. Ushakoff our host. — Oriental "politeness." — Visit to Synagogue. — Information concerning Jews of Khokand and Bokhara. — The bazaar: its jewellery, ewers, and furs. — View from medresse of Murad Bek. — A puppet-show. — Inspection of hospital and Khan's palace. — The Lepers' hamlet. — Distribution of Scriptures. — Visit to native merchant

Chapter XVII. From Khokand To Samarkand

Locality of Khokand productive of goitre. — Departure from Khokand. — Travellers sleeping in the street — Return to Khojend. — Climate of Khojend. — Long stage to Ura-Tiube. — View of the town. — Its sacred places. — Religious and moral condition of inhabitants. — The "Gates of Tamerlane." — The Sart pastime of Kok-bari. — Fording the Zarafshan. — Approaching Samarkand . . . . . . . . . .212

Chapter XVIII. The Ancient Capital Of Tamerlane

Tamerlane's capital. — Ancient ruins. — The Russian Governor's palace. — The Gur-Emir: its tombstones, history, and relics — Mosque of Shah-Zindeh : its legends, ornamentation, and places of devotion. — Ruin of Bibi-Khanum medresse : its architecture, and miracle-working lectern. — Bibi-Khanum's tomb. — The Citadel Palace and the Kok-tash stone. — Timur's palace of Ishrat-Khana. — Bird's-eye view of Samarkand. — Its former and present dimensions. — Khoja-Akhrar medresse. — Koran of Othman. — Tradition of Tamerlane's library. — The Righistan, with medresses of Ulug-Beg, Shir-Dar, and Tillah- Kari. — Varieties of enamelled bricks. — A butcher's shrine

Chapter XIX. Our Stay At Samarkand

Visit to Jewish quarters during the Feast of Tabernacles.— Synagogue choristers.— Visit to rabbi.— Local traditions of Jews in CONTENTS. X PAGE China. — Hebrew pronunciation. — Visit to military and naval hospitals.— Education and morals of Russian officers and men. — Samarkand bazaar. — Public-houses of Zarafshan, and the Turkistan liquor traffic— Governor's information respecting the province.— Attendants for our journey, and Asiatic interpreter. —Purchase of antiquities and distribution of the Scriptures. — General Ivanoff .....•••• 23°

Chapter XX. Do We Know The Truth About Siberian

PRISONS? Different estimates of "Through Siberia." — Doubts of sceptical friends. — Prisons supposed to have been prepared for my visits. — The supposition examined. — Opinions of residents in Russia and Siberia. — Testimony of a Swede. — Examination of statements concerning Siberian Prisons in "Called Back." — Prince Krapotkine's censure, and its value. — The class of facts borne witness to in " Through Siberia." 250

Chapter XXI. The Fortress Prison In Petersburg

Difficulty of obtaining admittance, and facility of misrepresentation. — Letter alleged to have been written therefrom in blood. — Description of Troubetzkoy Bastion ; its cells, occupants, and diet. — The Courtine of Catherine II. — Place for visits of friends, and for trials. — The library. — Cells for military officers, and garden. — Inquiry for oubliettes and underground dungeons. — Testimony of official eye-witnesses. — Testimony of ex-prisoners. — Examination of statements in the Nineteenth Century. — Insufficient evidence as to alleged torture of prisoners ........... 259

Chapter XXII. The Prisons Of Russian Central Asia

Visit to prison at Omsk. — Difficulties in providing prisoners with literature. — Exaggerated statements as to uncleanness of Russian prisons. — Visit to prison at Semipolatinsk. — A Raskolnik fanatic. — Criminal statistics of Semipolatinsk. — Visit to prison at Vierny. — Official report of the prisons of Semirechia. — Local voluntary committees. — My distribution of books. — Visit to prison at Tashkend. — Alleged overcrowding of Russian prisons. — Visit to prison at Khokand. — Prison visitation in Samarkand. — Lavatory arrangements, and misrepresentations concerning them. — My testimony and its limits . . . CONTENTS. XI PAGE 3i6

Chapter XXIII. From Samarkand To Kitab

A new country, little visited by Englishmen. — Changed mode of travel. — Tarantass despatched to Karshi. — My retinue. — Leaving Samarkand for Kara-Tiube. — Tent lodging in court of a mosque. — Slumbers disturbed. — Journey towards Kitab. — Ploughing and threshing. — The Takhta-Karacha Pass. — View of Shahr-i-sabz. — Descent to Kainar-bulak. — Welcome from Bokhariot ambassadors. — Kainar refreshments. — Ride to Kitab ........... 291

Chapter XXIV. From Kitab To Shahr

Curious hospitality. — Entertainment by dancing-boys and mountebanks. — Native appreciation of batchas. — Visits from the Emir's court. — Our lodging and spies. — Reception of Bokhariot officers. — Guard of native soldiers. — Dress for an audience with the Emir. — Procession and arrival at the fortress. — The Emir Seid Muzaffar-ed-din. — Various estimates of his character. — Admission to his presence. — My requests and presents. — Refreshment with courtiers. — Princely presents. — Drive to Shahr in the Emir's carriage ..... 302

Chapter XXV. From Shahr To Bokhara

Historical associations of Shahr. — Visit to the Bek, and his inquiries concerning Kuldja. — Information from courtiers. — Return of certain presents. — Untrustworthiness of Bokhariot statistics. — Departure from Shahr. — Visit to Bek of Chirakchi. — Handsome guest-house. — Visit to public bath. — The slave trade in Bokhara. — Visit to Bek of Karshi. — Mosques and synagogues. — Our departure from Karshi. — Kishlaks of semi-nomads. — Khoja-Moburak. — Scamper on my horse " Diotrephes." — Kakir cistern. — " Unfurnished apartments " and oven. — Karaul bazaar. — Lake Kunja. — Stay at Chitarik. — Approach to Bokhara .

Chapter XXVI. The City Of Bokhara

The late Emir Nasr-Ullah.— Visit of Burnes to Bokhara.— Stoddart sent as British envoy. — Concurrent Russian missions. — Conolly enticed to Bokhara and imprisoned.— Stoddart and Conolly killed. — Brave journey of Dr. Wolff.— My entry into Bokhara. — Its ancient appearance and customs. — Sumptuous lodging and garden. — Bokhariot fruit-trees and horticulture. — Desire CONTENTS. XII PACE 338 360 to mount a minaret. — Paucity of Russian inhabitants and their treatment. — Visit to the medresse Kokol-tash. — Dancing-boys dressed as girls. — -Misinterpretation of an English song. — Slumbers disturbed by watchmen, dogs, and military parade. — Service in the Jumma mosque reminiscent of temple worship in Jerusalem. — A Hindu temple. — Gallop round the walls

Chapter XXVII. The Jews Of Bokhara

My plans concerning the Jews. — Inquiry about the alleged persecutions in Moscow and South Russia. — Russia : how regarded by Western and Eastern Jews. — Oppressed condition of Jews in Bokhara. — Visits to their synagogue, and their sick. — Inquiry for Hebrew manuscripts. — Hints concerning their technicalities. — Wonderful manuscript of the Old Testament. — Fear ofthe Jews to receive us. — My letter to the Emir on their behalf

Chapter XXVIII. Bokhara The Noble

Bokhara as a place of learning. — Visit to a primary school. — A ride outside the walls. — Mosque of Namazi-gah. — Visit to the Kush-beggi. — The Emir's palace and curiosities.— Conversation with the Kush-beggi and his son. — Some of my requests refused. — Value of presents received. — Visit to the bazaar. — Commerce and trade of Bokhara. — The Righistan. — Bokhara after dark. — Standing up for my rights. — Ride towards Katte-Kurgan. — The lepers' quarter. — Fear of punishment. — Return to our lodgings -374

Chapter XXIX. Sundries Concerning Bokhara

Both guest and prisoner. — Use made of custodians. — Bokhara minerals, garden produce, and animals. — The natives and their diseases. — Treatment of the insane. — The rishta, or guinea-worm. — Native method of treatment. — 1 he Bokhara prisons. — Inquiry as to where Stoddart and Conolly were confined. — Manner of life of the Emir. — His harem. — Our generous reception at Bokhara and its cause. — Extra presents to the Emir 391

Chapter XXX. From Bokhara To Charjui

Departure from Bokhara. — End of Zarafshan oasis. — Ruins of Peikand. — Approaching Kara-Kul. — Inexperienced postillions. — The sands of Sundukli. — Our tarantass left behind. — A night's lodging at Betik CONTENTS. XIII 444

Chapter XXXI. Our Stay At Charjui

PAGE Departure for the Oxus. — Meeting of Charjui officials. — Our lodging and reception. — Pilau and native bread. — Visit to the Bek. — Received with music. — The place of execution, and the prison.— Charjui bazaar and slave-trade. — Administration of the khanate, and taxes.— The governments of the Tsar and the Emir, how respectively regarded by the Bokhariots. — Return from Charjui to the Oxus. — The tarantass regained. — Departure of our two attendants 413

Chapter XXXII. Floating Down The Oxus

Prospect of floating 300 miles on the Oxus. — Escort for protection against the Turkomans. — Journey to Kheradj. — Rough hospitality. — Journey to Ustik. — Compulsory service of boatmen. — Geological phenomena. — Arrival at Ildjik. -Change of boat and oarsmen. — A Bokhariot "Siberia." — Arrival at Kabakli. — Sheep attacked by wolf. — Visit from the Bek. — Departure from Kabakli. — Ruins on the banks and tussaz's. — Precautions against robbers. — Native information. — Uzbeg notions of a future life. — Singing oarsmen. — Flora of the river islands and banks. — The " Pitniak Curve" and "Lion's Mouth." — A dumb journey thence by horses. — Shurakaneh. — Arrival at Petro-Alexandrovsk 426

Chapter XXXIII. Our Stay At Petro-alexandrovsk

By what route homewards ? — The Orenburg and Aralo-Caspian routes. — A social evening at the Governor's house. — Change of weather. — Petro-Alexandrovsk and its institutions. — Proposed desert journey. — Arrival of tarantass. — Distribution of Scriptures. — Results of Bible work in Siberia and Central Asia

Chapter XXXIV. From Petro-alexandrovsk To Khiva

Departure with the Khivan Consul. — Journey to the Oxus and crossing. — -Arrival at Khanki. — Extraordinary sepulchres. — Our lunch and native food. — The Khivan oasis and its gardens. — Arrival in Khiva at the house of the Divan-beggi. — His antecedents and visit. — Inspection of his premises. — Our visit to the Khan. — Burnaby's " Ride to Khiva " . . . .455 CONTENTS. PAGE 482 499

Chapter XXXV. Our Sta

Y AT KHIVA. My informants. — Dimensions of the khanate. — Khivan melons, and efforts to introduce them into England. — Khivan inhabitants, revenue, and foreign relations. — The sights ofthe town, including the bazaar. — Central Asian weights, measures, and trade. — Cloisonne turquoise jewellery. — Khivan industries. — The medresses of Allah Kuli and Madrahim Khan. — .Fehlivan-Ata mosque and its royal tombs. — Moslem pilgrimages . . . 469

Chapter XXXVI. Khivan Mosques And Their Worshippers

Muhammadan religious orders. — Ceremonies of the Jahria Brotherhood. — Superstitious practices. — Dancingdervishes. — Religious condition of Central Asiatics.— Morals of the people. — Fanaticism and indifference. — Their attitude towards the Bible and Christianity. — Importance of missions to Muhammadans. — Efforts of "Orthodox" missionaries. — Labours ofthe Bible Society. — Khiva seen from a minaret. — The winter palace and Jumma mosque. — The prison and gallows. — Home entertainment. — Farewell visit to the Khan. — Hazarasp and its hermit's cave

Chapter XXXVII. Through The Khivan Khanate

Departure from Khiva with Khassan the Batchman. — Luggage arbas. — Kosh-ku-pryk and its melons. — Our stay at Shavat. — Amusements of the natives. — Havlis and their supposed resemblance to Scripture " strongholds." — Visit to havli at Manak. — Oil and corn mills. — Hawks for falconry. — Mud walls of the havli. — Invitation to stay. — Route to Tashauz. — Stay in the Khan's palace. — The town of Tashauz. — View from the palace roof. — The Khivan climate. — Arrival at Iliali. — Khivan irrigation. — Our luggage attacked by robbers. — Stay at Ak-tepe. — The Turkoman region. — Accident near Kunia Urgenj .

Chapter Xxxviii. Our Stay At Kunia Urgenj

Antiquity of Kunia Urgenj. — Siege of Tamerlane. — Inspection of the ruins. — The minarets and mausoleums. — Tombs of Tiurebek Khanim and Sheikh Nejm-ed-din-Kubera. — The town of Hojeili and Mennonite colony. — Our lodgings at Kunia Urgenj. — Central Asian "home life." — Marriage. — Life in a royal harem. — Seclusion of women. — Need of female missionaries in Central Asia. — Delay in getting camels. — A Kirghese court CONTENTS. XV PACE 538 of justice and witnesses. — Kirghese interpreter. — A new servant. — Need of Kirghese literature. — Preparation for the desert ; camel cradles ; cooking utensils, and provisions. — Arrival of camels and dishonesty of attendants. — Camels for military purposes. — Presumptive danger ahead . . . . . 515

Chapter XXXIX. The Start For The Desert

Departure from Kunia Urgenj. — Rest in a Turkoman tent. — Kibitkas adopted by the Russians. — Yomud Turkomans. — Forced labour of the Khan. — Dismissal of attendants with presents. — New interpreter and guides. — Our last habitation. — Doctoring a Turkoman. — "Turning in" to camel cradles. — Rosy's accident. — My ride through the night. — Wells of Karategin. — First caravan breakfast. — Endeavours to hasten the drivers. — Journey in the old Oxus bed. — The dam of Egin Klych. — Ruins of Mashrek. — Pitching our tent opposite Kunia Vezir ............

Chapter XL. Incidents Of

A CAMEL JOURNEY. Order of march and loading camels. — Tragical end of a china basin. — Climbing a camel's hump. — The Oxus bed at Ak-bugut. — Cliffs of the Ust Urt. — The Kitchkine-daria. — The pool at Dekche. — Wells of Sary Kamish. — Correction of Murad • for stealing. — Character of guides. — Arrival at Sary Kamish. — Lakes of Sary Kamish and their characteristics. — Testing specific gravity of water. — Crossing the lake basin to the Ust Urt 556

Chapter XLI. From Sary Kamish To The Caspian

Mounting the Ust Urt. — The well Uzun Kuyu. — Saxaul and other fuel. — Bread baken on the coals. — Capture of a gazelle. — ■ Remains of sun worship. — Troubles with attendants. — Breakfast on a camel's back. — The wells of Kazakhli. — The bay of Kaplan Kir. — A dry ocean bed. — The wells of Kum-sebshem. — Ascent from the bed of Kaplan Kir. — Road to well of Seikiz Khan. — Improved prospects, but low spirits. — Search of Bible for illustrative passages. — Lack of domestic comforts. — Revival of hope at sight of Caspian. — The pond of Porsu. — Gazelles. — A sixteen hours' march. — Oriental customs illustrated. — Fauna of the steppe. — The land tortoise. — A teetotaller's experience. — Last night on the camel's back. — Mouldy bread and tattered garments. — Arrival at Krasnovodsk . . . CONTENIS. XVI PACE

Chapter XLII. From Krasnovodsk Homewards

Descent into Krasnovodsk. — Hospitality of the Commandant- Dismissal of native attendants. — Our rate of travel. — Visit to Merv abandoned. — O' Donovan and his letter to the Author. — The Scriptures in Turkmenia. — Alikhanoff, Naziroff, and Lessar in Merv. — Conversation thereon with Khan of Khiva. — Annexation of Merv by Russia. — Russia's mission of civilization. — The town of Krasnovodsk, and its scanty supplies. — Visit to a Turkoman oba. — Turkoman women and jewellery; their occupations and food. — Armenian trading. — Passage across the Caspian. — Baku and its oil. — From Baku to Tiflis in a horse-box. — Bible distribution from Tiflis. — Scenery at Batoum. — Voyage to Odessa. — Summary of journey, and farewell 585 Author's Itinerary 606

APPENDIX.

. THE DIPLOMACY AND DELIMITATION OF THE RUSSO-AFGHAN FRONTIER. DIPLOMACY. Mooted by Earl Clarendon, 1869. — Russia approaching India. — ■ Neutral territory recommended and idea approved. — Afghanistan declined, but Upper Oxus proposed, as boundary. — To commence at Khoja Saleh. — Territory of Shere Ali Khan to be Afghanistan. — Boundary proposed from Sir-i-kul to Khoja Saleh, and districts on north-west frontier. — Questioned, but ultimately accepted, by Russia. — The situation in 1873. — Annexation of Khivan territory. — British apprehensions, and warning about Afghanistan. — Russian assurances against further extension. — Idea of an intermediate zone abandoned. — Russia's advance from the Caspian. — England's proposal as to delimitation of Perso-Russian frontier. — Request of Ameer of Afghanistan for a boundary map. — Demarcation of Afghan boundary desired. — Voluntary submission of Merv. — Remonstrance of England and Russia's reply, with proposal to demarcate from Khoja Saleh. — Accepted by England, and time and place of meeting suggested. — Russia suggests preliminary principles, objects to begin at Heri-Rud, andhints desire for Panjdeh and Paropamisus. — England's wish for Ameer's territory: Russia's for Turkoman lands. — Arrangements for departure of Commissioners. — Zelenoy taken ill and proposes a "zone" of operations. — Cossack advance to CONTENTS.

XVII 608 624 Pul-i-Khatun. — Russian proposal for negotiation of frontier in London. — Russian advance to Zulfikar and Panjdeh. — England's proposed "zone" rejected. — The Panjdeh fight and indifference of Ameer. — England's demand for a strategical frontier for her renunciation of Panjdeh. —Discussion on the Zulfikar Pass, and compromise. — A boundary negotiated in protocol DELIMITATION. The Commission and boundary. — Zulfikar ford and pass. — First meeting, and site of first pillar. — Social festivities. — Survey parties starting eastwards. — Pillars to Sumba Karez and Hauzi-Khan. — Russian claims in the Kushk valley resisted. — From Hauz-i-Khan to Maruchak. — Difficulties about Panjdeh. — Weather, Christmas, and sport. — Sparsity of population. — Difficulties adjusted ; delimitation recommenced, and frontier arranged nearly to the Oxus. — Fresh differences, and reference to Europe. — Demarcation continued to Daulatabad. — From Andkhui to Bosagha. — Survey of the Oxus banks, and withdrawal of Commissioners. — Where is Khoja Saleh? — Settlement at St. Petersburg. — Afghan losses and gains. — Results of delimitation : improved relations with, and greater knowledge of, Afghanistan. — Greater proximity of Russia. — Vulnerability of new frontier, and railway extension towards India.

DISCUSSION. Sources of previous information imperfect. — Subject looked at : — From a Russian standpoint.— English meddlesome, asking "intentions." — Apprehensions on Khivan annexation. — Mr. Bull's demands and interference. — Precipitancy of action after annexation of Merv. — Slowness in coming to terms. — Need of Russian wakefulness in delimitation 635 From an English standpoint.— Russian advance to the Urals, the Irtish, and Vierny. — Joining forces from Orenburg, in 1864. — Bokhara conquered. — Encroachments from the Caspian, and slowness in delimitation.— Dishonourable delay . . .637 From a general standpoint. — Two nations squabbling for selfish ends over worthless territory. — The inhabitants, brigands. — Unconcern of England at Turkoman raids.— Thousands of slaves liberated under Russian rule.— Safety on Russian post-roads.— A railway provided.— Let not England be jealous of Russia. — Why not both be friends ? 640 Index of Texts Illustrated or Referred to . . . 642 Index 645 b LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGF. MAP TO ILLUSTRATE DR. HENRY LANSDELL's "THROUGH CENTRAL ASIA," WITH THE NEW RUSSO-AFGHAX FRONTIER, AND AUTHOR'S ROUTE Facing title page OMSK FROM THE GARDEN OF THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL 39 A KIRGHESE CAMEL-CART SS A POST-HOUSE " CHAMBRE-DE-TOILETTE " 63 THE PICKET POST-STATION AT ARGANATINSK 65 A TORGOUT KALMUK 79 RUINED CHINESE GATEWAY AT SUIDUN 80 A TARANCHI 82 SIBO MILITARY COLONISTS 83 A SIBO WOMAN 84 A KALMUK BEAUTY 86 THE CHIEF TARANCHI MOSQUE IN KULDJA 96 MINARET OF THE TARANCHI MOSQUE 98 "SHOP-STREET" IN WINTER, IN KULDJA 102 A KALMUK WOMAN WITH NATIVE EARRING 104 OVIS POLII, OR THIAN-SHAN SHEEP 105 THE MARKET-PLACE WITH DUNGAN MOSQUE IN KULDJA .... IOQ A DUNGAN PUBLIC CONVEYANCE 1 15 APPROACHING VIERNY 119 A STREET IN VIERNY 120 A KIRGHESE 13O A KIRGHESE TENT IN SUMMER PASTURE, NEAR THE SOURCES OF THE KORA . 133 A KIRGHESE " PEROKOCHEVKA," OR FLITTING I34 A KIRGHESE "BAIBICHE," OR SENIOR WIFE . . . . . . . 136 A TRAVELLER'S HALTING-PLACE IN THE COUNTRY OF THE KsRGHESE . . 145 SUMMER RESIDENCE OF THE GOVERNOR OF SEMIRECHIA 158 THE BUAM PASS ON THE ROAD TO ISSIK-KUL , . 159 A RUSSIAN COLONIST A JEW OF CENTRAL ASIA xjfr SARTS IN THE BAZAAR A SART IN TIBETEIKA AND KHALAT !8- THE PALACE OF THE LATE KHAN AT KHOKAND 206 PRISON IN THE PALACE OF THE LATE KHAN AT KHOKAND .... 208 THE AUTHOR IN A KHOKANDIAN SUIT OF MAIL 213 A JEWESS OF CENTRAL ASIA 238 THE PRISON CHAPEL IN VIERNY 283 SEID MUZAFFAR-ED-DIN, EMIR OF BOKHARA . 3_2 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.