The Bushman, or life in a new country

Preface

. The British Colonies now form so prominent a portion of the Empire, that the Public will be compelled to acknowledge some interest in their welfare, and the Government to yield some atten tion to theh wants. It is a necessity which both the Government and the Public will obey with reluctance. Too remote for sympathy, too powerless for respect, the Colonies, during ages of existence, have but rarely occupied a passing thought in the mind of the Nation ; as though their insignificance entitled them only to neglect. But the weakness of childhood is passing away : the Infant is fast

PREFACE.

. IV growing into the possession and the consciousness of strength, whilst the Parent is obliged to acknow ledge the increasing usefulness of her offspring. The long-existing and fundamental errors of Go vernment, under which the Colonies have hitherto groaned in helpless subjection, wdl soon become generally known and imderstood — and then they wdl be remedied. In the remarks which wdl be found scattered through this work on the subject of Colonial Government, it must be observed, that the system only is assaded, and not individuals. That it is the system and not the men who are in fault, is suffi ciently proved by the fact that the most illustrious statesmen and the brightest talents of the Age, have ever failed to distinguish themselves by good works, whilst dhecting the fortunes of the Colonies.

Lord John RusseU, Lord Stanley, Mr. Gladstone — all of them high-minded, scrupulous, and patriotic statesmen — aU of them men of brilliant genius, extensive knowledge, and profound thought — have all of them been but slightly appreciated as Colonial riders.

PREFACE.

. V Their principal success has been in perpetuating a noxious system. They have all of them con-' scientiously believed their first duty to be, in the words of Lord Stanley, to keep the Colonies de pendent upon the Mother Country ; and occupied with this belief, they have legislated for the Mother Country and not for the Colonies. Vain, selfish, fear-inspired policy ! that keeps the Colonies down in the dust at the feet of the Parent State, and yet is of no value or advantage to her. To make her Colonies usefid to England, they must be cherished in their infancy, and carefully encouraged to put forth all the strength of their secret energies. It is not wThilst held in leading-strings that they can be useful, or aught but burthensome : rear them kindly to maturity, and allow them the free exercise of their vast natural strength, and they would be to the parent country her truest and most valuable friends.

The colonies of the empire are the only LASTING AND INALIENABLE MARKETS FOR ITS PRO- DUCE ; and the first aim of the political economist should be to develope to their utmost extent the VI

PREFACE.

. vast resources possessed by Great Britain in these iier own peculiar fields of national wealth. But the policy displayed throughout the history of her Colonial possessions, has ever been the reverse of this. It was that grasping and ungenerous policy that called forth a Washington, and cost her an empire. It is that same miserable and low-born policy that still recoils upon herself, depriving her of vast increase of wealth and power in order to keep the chain upon her hapless children, those ambitious Titans whom she trembles to unbind. And yet poor Old England considers herself an excellent parent, and moans and murmurs over the ingratitude of her troublesome offspring ! Like many other parents, she means to do well and act kindly, but unhappily the principles on which she proceeds are radically wrong.

Hence, on the one side, heart-burning, irritation, and resent ment ; on the other, disappointment, revulsion, and alarm. Is she too deeply prejudiced, or too old in error, to attempt a new system of policy ? In what single respect, has she ever proved her-

PREFACE.

. VII self a good parent to any of her Colonies ? Whilst supplying them with Government Officers, she has fettered them with unwholesome laws ; whilst giving them a trifling preference over foreign states in their commerce, she has laid her grasp upon theh soil ; whilst allowing them to legislate in a smaU degree for themselves, she has reserved the prerogative of annulling all enactments that inter fere with her own selfish or mistaken views ; whilst permitting their inhabitants to live under a light ened pressure of taxation, she has debarred them from wealth, rank, honours, rewards, hopes — all those incentives to action that lead men forward to glory, and stamp nations with greatness. What has she done for her Colonies — this careful and beneficent parent? She has permitted them to exist, but bound them down in serf-like de pendence ; and so she keeps them — feeble, helpless, and hopeless.

She grants them the sanction of her flag, and the privilege of boasting of her baneful protection. Years — ages have gone by, and her policy has been the same — darkening the heart and crushing

PREFACE.

. VIII the energies of Man in climes where Nature sparkles with hope and teems with plenty. Time, however, too powerfid for statesmen, con tinues his silent but steady advance in the great work of amelioration. The condition of the Colonies must be elevated to that of the counties of England. Absolute rule must cease to prevail in them. Men must be allowed to win there, as at home, honours and rank. Time, the grand minister of correction — Time the Avenger, already has his foot on the threshold of the Colo nial Office. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. — Colonists 1 II. — St. Jago 8 III. — The Mutiny 18 IV. — The Prison-Island 29 V. — First Adventures 44 VI. — Perth. — Colonial Juries G2 VII. — Boating up the River 80 VIII. — Farms on the River 97 IX. — The Moral Thermometer of Colonies . . 107 X. — Country Life 118 XI. — Persecutions 129 XII. — Michael Blake, the Irish Settler . . . 140 XIII. — Wild Cattle Hunting 152 XIV. — Woodman's Point 177 XV. — How the Laws of England affect the Natives 180 XVI. — Remarks on the Physical Organization of the Natives 190 XVII. — Sketches of Life among the Natives . . 208 XVIIL— The Model Kingdom 217 XIX. — Trials of a Governor 223 XX. — Mr. Sails, my Groom. — Over the Hills. — A Sheep Station 233 XXI. — Extracts from the Log of a Hut-keeper . 257 XXII. — Pelican Shooting. — Gales. — Wrestling with Death CONTENTS.

X CHAP. PAGE XXIII. — The Desert of Australia.— Cause of the Hot Winds. — Geology 283 XXIV.— Colonial Government 298 XXV. — One of the Errors of Government. — Adventures of the " Bramble" . . . 307 XXVI. — Scientific Discoveries. — Kangaroo Hunting. — Emus.* — Lost in the Bush . . . 323 XXVII.— The Comet. — Vital Statistics. — Meteorology 349 XXVIII. — The Botany or the Colony 356 XXIX. — Misfortunes of the Colony 370 XXX. — Resources of the Colony : — Horses for India — Wine — Dried Fruits — Cotton — Coal — Wool — Corn — Wh a le-Oil. — A Whale Hunt. — Cured Fish. — Ship Tomer 381 XXXI. — Rise and Fall of a Settlement. — The Sequel to Captain Grey's Discoveries. — A Word at Parting 403 PLATES. Refers lo pape Kangaroo Hunting (Frontispiece) 335 Tn fiiee pnjrp The Bivouac . 100 Spearing Kangaroo 215 Death of the Kangaroo 33(5 Emu Hunt (woodcut) ; OB, LIFE IN A NEW COUNTRY. — ♦ —

Chapter I

colonists. The Spirit of Adventure is the most animating impulse in the human breast. Man naturally detests inaction ; he thirsts after change and novelty, and the prospect of excitement makes him prefer even danger to continued repose. The love of adventure ! how strongly it urges forward the Young ! The Young, who are ever discontented with the Present, and sigh for oppor tunities of action which they know not where to seek. Old men mourn over the folly and reck lessness of the Young, who, in the fresh and balmy spring-time of life, recoil from the confinement of it ■2 THE bushman. the desk or the study, and long for active occupation, in which all their beating energies may find employment. Subjection is the consequence of civilized life ; and self-sacrifice is necessary in those who are born to toil, before they may partake of its enjoyments.

But though the Young are conscious that this is so, they repine not the less ; they feel that the freshness and verdure of life must first die away ; that the promised recompense will probably come too late to the exhausted frame ; that the blessings whicii would now be received with prostrate gratitude wdl cease to be felt as boons ; and that although the wishes and wants of the heart wdl take new directions in the progress of years, the consciousness that the spring-time of life — that peculiar season of happiness whicii can never be known again — has been consumed in futile desires and aspirations, in vain hopes and bitter experiences, must ever remain deepening the gloom of Memory. Anxious to possess immediate independence, young men, fuU of adventurous spirit, proceed in search of new fields of labour, where they may reap at once the enjoyments of domestic life, wiiilst they industriously work out the curse that hangs over the Sons of Adam.

They who thus become emigrants from the ardent spirit of adventure, and from a desire to experience a simpler and less artificial manner of living than that which has become the essential characteristic of European civilization, form a large and useful body of colonists. These men, notwithstanding the pity which will be bestowed upon them by those wiiose limited experience of life leads to the belief that happiness or contentment can only be found in the atmosphere of England, are entitled to some consideration and respect. To have dared to deviate from the beaten track whicii was before them in the outset of life ; to have perceived at so vast a distance advantages which others, if they had seen, would have shrunk from aiming at ; to have persevered in their reso lution, notwithstanding the expostidations of Age, the regrets of Friendship, and the sighs of Affection — all this betokens originality and strength of character.

Does it also betoken inclifference to the wishes of others ? Perhaps it does ; and it marks one of the broadest and least amiable features in the character of a colonist. The next class of emigrants are those who depart from their native shores with reluctance and tears. Chddren of misfortune and sorrow, they would yet remain to weep on the bosom from which they have drawn no sustenance. But the strong blasts of necessity drive them from the homes which even b Grief has not rendered less dear. Their future has never yet responded to the voice of Hope, and now, worn and broken in spirit, imagination paints nothing cheering in another land. They go solely because they may not remain — because they know not where else to look for a resting place ; and Necessity, with her iron wiiip, drives them forth to some distant colony.

But there is stiU a third class, the most numerous perhaps of all, that helps to compose the population of a colony. This is made up of young men who are the wasterels of the World; who have never done, and never will do themselves any good, and are a curse instead of a benefit to others. These are they who think themselves fine, jovial, spirited fellows, who disdain to work, and bear themselves as if life were merely a game which ought to be played out amid coarse laughter and wild riot. These go to a colony because theh relatives will not support them in idleness at home. They feel no despair at the circumstance, for theh pockets have been refilled, though (they are assured) for the last time; and they rejoice at the prospect of spending their capital far from the observation of intrusive guardians.

Disgusted at authority which has never proved sufficient to restrain or improve them, they become ■) enamoured with the idea of absolute license, and are far too high-spirited to entertain any appre hensions of future poverty. These gallant-minded and truly enviable fellow-s betake themselves, on their arrival, to the zealous cultivation of field-sports instead of field produce. They leave with disdain the exercise of the useful arts to low-bred and beggarly-minded people, who have not spirit enough for anything better ; whdst they themselves enthu siastically strive to realize again those glorious times, — " When wild in woods the noble savage ran." In the intervals of relaxation from these fatigues, when they return to a town life, they endeavour to prove the activity of their energies and the benevo lence of their characters, by getting up bads and pic-nics, solely to promote the happiness of the ladies.

But notwithstanding this appearance of devotion to the fair sex, their best affections are never withdrawn from the companion of their hearts — the brandy flask. They evince their generous hospitality by hailing every one who passes their door, with " How are you, old fellow ? Come in, and take a nip." Somehow or other they are always liked, even by those who pity and despise them. The women only laugh at their irregularities — they are such "good-hearted creatures!" And so they go easily and rapidly down that sloping path which leads to ruin and despair. What is their end? Many of them literally kill themselves by drinking ; and those who get through the seasoning, which is the fatal period, are either compelled to become labourers in the fields for any one who will provide them with food ; or else succeed in exciting the compassion of their friends at home, by theh dismal accoimts of the impossibility of earning a livelihood in a ruined and worthless colony ; and having thus obtained money enough to enable them to return to England, they hasten to throw themselves and theh sorrows into the arms of theh sympathizing relatives.

Nothing can be more absurd than to imagine that a fortune may be made in a colony by those who have neither in them nor about them any of the elements or qualities by which fortunes are gained at home. There are, unfortunately, few sources of wealth peculiar to a colony. The only advantage wliich the emigrant may reasonably calculate upon enjoy ing, is the diminution of competition. In England the crowd is so dense that men smother one another. It is only by opening up the same channels of wealth under more favourable circumstances, that the emigrant has any right to calculate upon success. Without a profession, without any legitimate calling in wliich his early years have been properly in structed ; without any knowledge or any habits of business, a man has no better prospect of making a fortune in a colony than at home.

None, however, so circumstanced, entertains this belief; on the con trary, he enters upon his new career without any misgivings, and with the courage and enthusiasm of a newly enlisted recruit. Alas ! the disappointment which so soon and so inevitably succeeds, brings a crowrd of vices and miseries in its train.

Chapter II. St

JAGO. The reader may naturally expect to be informed of the reasons that have induced me thus to seek his acquaintance. In one word — I am a colonist. In England, a great deal is said every day about colonies and colonists, but very little is known about them. A great deal is projected ; but what ever is done, is unfortunately to their prejudice. Secretaries of State know much more about the distant settlements of Great Britain than the in habitants themselves ; and, consequently, the latter are seldom able to appreciate the ordinances which (for their own good) they are compelled to submit to. My own experience is chiefly confined to one of the most insignificant of our colonies, — insignificant in point of population, but extremely important as to its geographical position, and its prospects of future greatness, — but the same prin ciple of government applies to all the British settlements.

A few*- years ago, I was the victim of medical skill ; and being sentenced to death in my own country by three eminent physicians, was com paratively happy in having that sentence commuted to banishment. A wealthy man would have gone to Naples, to Malta, or to Madeira ; but a poor one has no resource save in a colony, unless he will condescend to live upon others, rather than support himself by his own exertions. The climate of Western Australia was recom mended ; and I may be grateful for the alternative allowed me. As I shall have occasion hereafter to allude to them incidentally, I may mention that my two brothers accompanied me on this distant voyage. The elder, a disciple of Æsculapius, was not only anxious to gratify his fraternal solicitude and his professional tastes by watching my case, but was desirous of realizing the pleasures of rural life in Australia.

My younger brother (whose pursuits entitle him to be called Melibceus) was a youth not eighteen, originally designed for the Chinch, and intended to cut a figure at Oxford; but modestly conceiving that the figure he was likely to cut would not tend to the advancement of his worldly interests, and moreover, having no admiration for Virgil beyond the Bucolics, he fitted himself out with a Lowland plaid and a set of Pandæan pipes, and solemnly dedicated himself to the duties of a shepherd. Thus it was that we were aU embarked in the same boat; or rather, we found ourselves in the month of Aprd, 1841, on board of a certain ill appointed barque bound for Western Australia. We had with us a couple of servants, four rams with curling horns — a purchase from the late Lord Western ; a noble blood-hound, the gift of a noble Lord famous for the breed ; a real old English mastiff-bitch, from the stock at Lyme Park; and a handsome spaniel cocker.

Besides this collection of quadrupeds, we had a vast assort ment of useless lumber, which had cost us many hundred pounds. Being most darkly ignorant of everything relating to the country to which we were going, but having a notion that it was very much of the same character with that so long inhabited by Robinson Crusoe, we had prudently provided ourselves with all the necessaries and even non-necessaries of life in such a region. Our tool chests would have suited an army of pioneers ; several distinguished ironmongers of the city of London had cleared their warehouses in our favour of aU the rubbish which had lain on hand during the last quarter of a century; we had hinges, bolts, screws, door-latches, staples, nails of all dimensions — from the tenpenny, downwards — and every other requisite to have completely built a modern viUage of reasonable extent.

We had tents, Macintosh bags, swimming-belts, se veral sets of sauce-pans in graduated scale, (we had here a distant eye to kangaroo and cockatoo stews,) cleavers, meat-saws, iron skewers, and a general apparatus of kitchen utensils that woidd have satisfied the deshes of Monsieur Soyer him self. Then we had double and single-barrelled guns, rifles, pistols, six barrels of Pigou and Wilkes' gunpowder ; an immense assortment of shot, and two hundredweight of lead for bullets. Besides the several articles already enumerated, we had provided ourselves with eighteen months' provisions, in pork and flour, calculating that by the time this quantity was consumed, we should have raised enough to support our establishment out of the soil by the sweat of our brows. And thus from sheer ignorance of colonial life, we had laid out a considerable portion of our capital in the purchase of useless articles, and of things which might have been procured more cheaply in the colony itself.

Nor were we the only green horns that have gone out as colonists : on the contrary, nine-tenths of those who emigrate, do so in perfect ignorance of the country they are about to visit and the life they are destined to lead. fact is, Englishmen, as a body, know nothing and care nothing about colonies. My own was merely the national ignorance. An Englishman's idea of a colony (he classes them altogether) is, that it is some miserable place — the Black-hole of the British empire — where no one would live if he were allowed a choice ; and where the exiled spirits of the nation are incessantly sighing for a glimpse of the white cliffs of Albion, and a taste of the old familiar green-and-yellow fog of the capital of the world. Experience alone can con vince him that there are in other regions of the world climes as delightful, suns as beneficent, and creditors as confiding, as those of Old England.

The voyage, of course, was tedious enough ; but some portion of it was spent very pleasantly in calculating the annual profits wliich our flocks were likely to produce. The four noble rams, with their curly horns, grew daily more valuable in om estimation. By the sailors, no doubt, they were rated no higher than the miserable tenants of the long-boat, that formed part of the cuddy provisions. But with us it was very different. As we looked, every bright and balmy morning, into the pen which they occupied, we were enabled to picture more vividly those Arcadian prospects which seemed now brought almost within reach. In these grave and respectable animals we recognised the patriarchs of a vast and invaluable progeny ; and it was impossible to help feeling a kind of veneration for the shcs of that fleecy multitude wliich was to prove the means of justi fying our modest expectations of happiness and wealth.

Our dogs also afforded us the most pleasing sub jects for speculation. With the blood-hound we were to track the footsteps of the midnight marauder, who should invade the sanctity of our fold. The spaniel was to aid in procuring a supply of game for the table ; and I bestowed so much pains upon his education during the voyage, that before we landed, he was perfectly au fait in the article of "down-charge !" and used to flush the cat in the steward's pantry with the greatest certainty and satisfaction. Jezebel, the mastiff-bitch, was expected to assist in guarding our castle, — an honourable duty which her courage and fidelity amply warranted us in confiding to her. Of the former quality, I shall mention an instance that occurred during the voyage. We had one day caught a shark, twelve feet long ; and no sooner was he hauled on deck than Jezebel, wild with fury, rushed through the circle of eager sailors and spectators, and flew directly at the nose of the struggling monster.

It was with difficulty that she was dragged away by admiring seamen, who were compelled to admit that there was a creature on board more reckless and daring than themselves. We were now approaching the Cape Verd Islands. I daresay it has been frequently mentioned, that there is in these latitudes a vast bed of loose sea weed, floating about, which has existed there from time immemorial, and which is only found in this one spot of the ocean ; as though it were here com pelled to remain under the influence of some magic spell. Some navigators are of opinion that it grows on the rocks at the bottom of the sea, beneath the surface on which it floats. Others maintain that it has been drifted across the Atlantic, having issued from the Gulf of Mexico. Here, however, it is doomed to drift about hopelessly, for ever lost in the wilderness of waters ; on the surface of wdiich it now vegetates, affording shelter to small crabs, and many curious kinds of fishes.

One of the latter which we caught, about an inch in length, had a spike on his back, and four legs, with which he crawled about the sea-weed. We approached the Island of St. Jago, sailing unconsciously close to a sunken rock, on wliich (as we afterwards learnt) the " Charlotte" had struck about six weeks before whilst under full sail, and had gone down in a few minutes, barely allowing time for the crew to escape in their boat. Notwithstanding we had been five weeks at sea when we dropped anchor in Porto Praya roads, the appearance of the land was by no means inviting to the eyes. A high and extremely barren hdl, or large heap of dry earth, with a good many stones about it, seemed to compose the Island. Close to us was the town, a collection of white houses that looked very dazzling in the summer sun.

Beside, and running behind it, was a greenish valley, con taining a clump of cocoa-nut trees. This was the spot we longed to visit ; so, getting into the captain's boat, we approached the shore, where a number of nearly naked negroes rushing into the sea (there being no pier or jetty) presented their slimy backs at the gun-wale, and carried us in triumph to the beach. The town boasted of one hotel, in the only sitting-room of whicii we found some Portuguese officers smoking pipes as dirty as themselves, and drinking a beverage whicii had much the appearance of rum and water. There was no one who could speak a word of English ; but at length a French waiter appeared, who seemed ravished with delight at the jargon with which we feebly reminded him of his own lively language " when at home." Having ordered dinner, we wandered off in search of the cocoa-nut valley, and purchased bananas for the first time in our lives, and oranges, the finest in the world.

Those who have been long at sea know how pleasant it is to walk once more upon the land. It is one of the brightest of the Everlasting flowers in the garland of Memory. We walked along the sea-beach, as people so circumstanced must ever do, full of gladsome fancies. There was delight for us in the varied shells at our feet ; in the curious skeletons of small fishes, untimely deceased ; in the fantastic forms of the drifted sea-weed ; in the gentle ripple of the companionable waves by our side. And little Fig, the spaniel, was no less pleased than ourselves. He ran before us rejoicing in his fleetness ; and he ran back again in a moment to tell us how glad he was. Then as a wave more incursive than its predecessor unexpectedly wetted his feet, he woidd droop his tail and run faster with alarm, until the sight of some bush or bough, left high and dry by the last tide, awakened his nervous suspicions, and dreading an ambuscade, he would stop sud denly and bark at the dreadful object, until we arrived at his side, when, wagging his tad and looking slyly up with his joyous eyes, he would scamper away again as though he would have us believe he had been all the time only in fun.

What profound satisfaction is there in the free dom of land after so long a confinement ! The sunshine that makes joyous every object around us finds its way into the deeps of the heart. And now we determined to bathe. So we crossed over a jutting rock, on the other side of whicii was a beautiful and secluded little bay, so sheltered that the waves scarcely rippled as they came to kiss the shell-covered beach. Here we soon unrobed ; and I was the first to rush at full speed into the inviting waters. Before I got up to my middle, however, I saw something before me that looked like a dark rock just below the surface. I made towards it, intending to get upon it, and dive off on the other side; but lo ! as I approached, it sthred ; then it darted like a flash of lightning towards one side of the bay, whilst I, after standing motionless for a moment, retreated with the utmost expedition.

It was a ground-shark, of whicii there are num bers on that coast. We lost no time in putting on our clothes again, and returned in rather a fluttered state to the inn. c CHAPTER IIIthe mutiny. We remained a week at St. Jago, the captain being busily engaged in taking in water, and quar relling with his crew. One day, at the instigation of our friend, the French waiter, we made a trip of seven miles into the interior of the island, to visit a beautiful vadey called Trinidad. Mounted on don keys, and attended by two ragged, copper-coloured youths, we proceeded in gallant style up the main street, and, leaving the town, crossed the valley beyond it, and emerged into the open country. It was a rough, stony, and hilly road, through a barren waste, where there scarcely appeared a stray blade of grass for the goats whicii rambled over it in anxious search of herbage.

At length, after a wearisome ride of several hours, we descended suddenly into the most fertile and luxuriant valley I ever beheld, and which seemed to extend a distance of some mdes. A mountain brook flowed down the midst, on the banks of which numerous scattered and picturesque cottages appeared. On either side the ground was covered with the green carpet of Nature in the spring of the year. Everywhere, except in this smiling valley, we saw nothing but the aridity of summer, and the desolation caused by a scorching tropical sun. But here — how very different ! How sudden, how magical was the change ! Every species of vegetable grew here in finest luxuriance. Melons of every variety, pine-apples, sweet potatoes, plantains, and bananas, with theh broad and drooping leaves of freshest green and rich purple flower, and ripe yellow fruit.