In the Forbidden Land: an account of a journey in Tibet ... With a map and two hundred and fifty illustrations

Front matter

IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND Manstng Chanden Sing osf. ojotrvru Savage, y<iruu>7~ artel lyi two f-y.tli.yl Aivrvurd*) IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND AN ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY IN TIBET CAPTURE BY THE TIBETAN AUTHORITIES IMPRISONMENT, TORTURE, AND ULTIMATE RELEASE l;i A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR At'THOH OF CvREA. 0/i TH£ L.1NI' OF THE MOKMXG CALM. ■ -.nose with mt i;.4i>.y,n\u: i'-. ALSO VARIOUS OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS, INCLUDING THE ENQUIRY .AND REPORT EY J. LARKIN, ES(^, APPOINTED BY THE GOVERNMENT OF INDIA WITH A MAP AND TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I LONDON WILLIAM HEINEMANN iSqS This Edition enjoys copyright in all Countries signatory to ihe Berne Treaty, and is not to be imported into the United States of America, I DEDICATE THIS BOOK TO MY FATHER & MOTHER

Preface

In this book I have set down the record of a journey in Tibet undertaken by me during the spring, summer and autumn of 1897. It is illustrated partly from my photographs and partly from sketches made by me on the spot. Only as regards the torture scenes have I had to draw from memory, but it will be easily conceded that their impression must be vivid enough with me. The map is made entirely from my surveys of an area of twelve thousand five hundred square miles in Tibet proper. In Chapter VI. the altitudes of such high peaks in India as Nanda Devi and others are taken from the Trigonometrical Survey, and so are the positions fixed by astronomical observations of the starting and terminating points of my surveys at the places where I entered and left Tibet. In the orthography of geographical names I have adopted the course advised by the Royal Geographical

PREFACE.

VIII Society — viz., to give the names their true sound as they are locally pronounced, and I have made no exception even for the grand and poetic " Himahlya" which is in English usually distorted into the unmusical and unromantic word " Himalayas." I submit with all deference the following geographical results of my expedition : The solution of the uncertainty regarding the division of the Mansarowar and Rakstal Lakes. The ascent to so great an altitude as 22,000 feet, and the pictures of some of the great Himah lyan glaciers. The visit to and the fixing of the position of the two principal sources of the Brahmaputra, never before reached by a European. The fact that with only two men I was able to travel for so long in the most populated part of Tibet. In addition to the above, I am glad to state that owing to the publicity which I gave in the Daily Mail to the outrageous Tibetan abuses taking place on British soil, the Government of India has this year (1898) notified the Tibetan authorities that they will in future not be permitted to collect Land Revenue from British subjects there. This fact o-ives me special satisfaction, because of the exceptional

PREFACE.

IX courtesy and kindness bestowed on me by our mountain tribesmen, the Shokas. The Government Report of the official Investiga tion of my case, as well as other documents sub stantiating the details of my narrative, are printed in an appendix. A. H. S. L. September 1808 b vol i CONTENTS

Chapter II

Loads — A set of useful pack-saddle cases — Provisions and scientific outfit — Clothes and shoes — Medicines — Under way — The first march — Servants — How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing Pp. 4-1 1

Chapter VI

Highways and trade routes — The Dharma route— The Dholi River— A rough track connecting two valleys — Glaciers— Three ranges and their peaks— Altitudes— Darma, Johar. and the Painkhanda Parganas— The highest peak in the British Empire— Natural boundaries Pp. 40-45 CONTENTS XII

Chapter VII

The word Bhot and its meaning— Tibetan influence— Tibetan abuses— The ever-helpful Chanden Sing— The first Shoka village— Chanden Sing in disgrace— Weaving-loom— Fabrics — All's well that ends well Pp- 46-52

Chapter VIII

Prayers by wind-power — Photography under difficulties — A night of misery — Drying up — Two lady missionaries — Their valuable work — An interesting dinner party — An " eccentric " man's tea party Pp. 53-59

Chapter IX

Discouraging reports — A steep ascent — How I came to deserve the name of "monkey" — Hard at work — Promoted in rank — Collapse in a gale of wind — Time and labour lost . . . Pp. 60-64

Chapter XVII

Funeral Rites : Departure of the Soul — Cremation — Amusement of the dead man's soul — The lay figure — Feasting — Doleful dance — Transmigration of the soul — Expensive ceremonies — Offerings before the lay figure — Dancing and contortions — Martial dances — - Solo dances — The animal to be sacrificed and the lay figure — Chasing the animal from the village — Tearing out its heart — The yak driven over a precipice — Head shaving — A sacred cave. Pp. 1 16-128

Chapter XVIII

Touching Shoka farewell — Feelings curiously expressed — Sobs and tears — The start — A funereal procession — Distressed father and mother — Kachi and Dola the worse for drink — Anxious moments — The bridge destroyed . • Pp. 129-135

Chapter XIX

A dangerous track — Perilous passage — A curious bridge over a precipice — Pathetic Shoka custom — Small misadventures — A grand reception — Tea for all tastes Pp. 136-139

Chapter XX

Dr, Wilson joins my expedition for a few marches — What misdeeds a photographic camera can do — Weighing, dividing, and packin. provisions — Two extra men wanted — The last friendly faces Pp. 140-143

Chapter XXI

The Kuti Castle— Under way— Our first disaster — A cheerful and a sulky coolie — Mansing — A brigand — A strange medley of followers— A character — Tailoring— Fields of stones— Troublesome rivers— The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass — Sense of humour — Pleased with small comforts Pp- I44_I53 CONTENTS XIV

Chapter XXV

The sources of the Kuti River — The Lumpiya glacier — The summit of the range — Bird's-eye view of Tibet — Rubso frozen almost to death — The Lumpiya Pass — Two coolies in distress . . Pp. 173-177

Chapter XXVI

Mysterious footprints — Brigand or spy ? — Passes and tracks — Intense cold — No fuel — A high flat plateau — Fuel at last ! — Two spies in disguise — What they took us for ..... 178-182

Chapter XXVII

Lama Chokden — A Tibetan guard — The sacred Kelas — Reverence of my men for the sacred Mountain — Trying hard to keep friends with the gods — Obos — Water flowing to us . . Pp. 183-186

Chapter XXVIII

An extensive valley — Kiang, or wild horse — Their strange ways — The Gyanema fort — Apprehension at our appearance — A parley—" Cut off our heads " ? — Revolt and murder contemplated — Hypocritical ways of Tibetan officials — Help summoned from everywhere — Preparing for war Pp. 187-193

Chapter XXXII

" Devil's Camp " — A fierce snowstorm — Abandoning our tents — Dangers and perils in prospect — Collecting the men — One load too many ! — Another man wanted and found — A propitious night — Good-bye to Wilson — The escape — Brigands . . Pp. 21 1-2 15

Chapter XXXIII

S.E. wind — Hungry and half frozen — Lake at 18,960 feet above sea-level — Cold food at high altitudes — Buried in snow — Mansing's sufferings — Fuel at last Pp. 216-221

Chapter XXXIV

Dacoits — No nonsense allowed — A much-frequented region — A plateau — The Gyanema-Taklakot track — A dangerous spot — Soldiers waiting for us — Burying our baggage — Out of provisions — A fall into the Gakkon River — A bright idea — Nettles our only diet Pp. 222-228

Chapter XXXV

All that remained of my men's provisions — The plan to enter the fort — Appearance of yaks — A band of brigands — Erecting fortifications — Changes in the temperature — Soldiers in search of us Pp. 229-233

Chapter XXXVI

"Terror Camp "—Two more messengers leave camp — A tribe of Dogpas — A strange sahib — Our messengers return from Taklakot — The account and adventures of their mission — In great distress — Two fakirs who suffered through me — Five hundred rupees offered for my head — The Shokas want to abandon me — A plot — How it failed Pp- 234-240 CONTENTS XVI

Chapter XXXVII

A Tibetan guard's encampment— Nattoo volunteers to be a guide- Treachery and punishment of the Shokas— All ways forward barred to me— Evading the soldiers by another perilous march at night— Mansing again lost — A marvellous phenomenon — Sufferings of my men — Severe cold Pp- 241-245

Chapter XLI

Tibetan coats, hats, and boots — Why a Tibetan prefers to leave hah the chest ard one arm bare — Ornamentations — Manner and speech — Ignorance and superstition — Way of eating — Jogpa women and children — Head-dress ...... Pp. 263-270

Chapter XLVI

Entering the Lamasery — The Lama's dwelling — Novices — Were we in a trap ? — Images — Oblations — Urghin — The holy water, the veil of friendship, and absolution — Musical instruments, books, &c. — God and the Trinity — Heaven and hell — A mystery . . Pp. 287-292

Chapter XLVII

The Jong Pen's statements regarding me — Sects of Lamas — Lamaseries — Government allowance — Ignorance of the crowds — How Lamas are recruited — Lamas, novices, and menials — Dances and hypnotism — Infallibility — Celibacy and vice — Sculptors — Prayer-wheels and revolving instruments — Nunneries — Human bones for eating vessels and musical instruments — Blood-drinking . Pp. 293-301

Chapter XLVIII

Illnesses and remedies — Curious theories about fever — Evil spirits — Blacksmith and dentist — Exorcisms — Surgical operations — Massage and cupping — Incurable illnesses — Deformities — Deafness — Fits and insanity — Melancholia — Suicides . . . Pp. 302-311

Chapter XLIX

A Tibetan medicine-man — Lumbago, and a startling cure for it — Combustible fuses — Fire and butter — Prayers, agony and distortions — Strange ideas on medicine Pp. 312-316

Chapter L

Tucker village — Chokdens — Houses — Flying prayers — Soldiers or robbers ? — A stampede — Fresh provisions — Disappointment — Treachery — Shokas leave me — Observations — Five men, all counted ! Pp. 317-320 VOL I c LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PHOTOGRAVURE A. Henry Savage Landor and his Two Faithful Servants . . Frontispiece COLOURED PLATES View of the Himahlyas. Showing Nanda Devi and Trisul Peaks To/acepage 42 Ncrpani Track „ 68 The Spectre and Circular Rainbow .... ,, 168 A Tibetan Fortune Teller „ 280 FULL-PAGE PLATES My Start from Naini Tal ,, 8 Lepers .......... ,, 14 Raots ,, 18 House of a Wealthy Shoka ...... ,, 58 Garbyang . „ 76 Involuntary Toboganning ...... „ 92 Snow Bridges over the Kuti River ....,, 98 Dance in Front of Deceased Man's House ... ,, 120 Martial Dance round Lay Figure n 124 A Perilous Passage „ 138 The Kuti Castle „ ! ,5 Camping in Snow ;j I-^ The Mangshan Glacier _ ( jg2 Ascending the Lumpiya Pass Ty.

The Lumpiya Glacier and Pass ..... t Spied • • " 181 My Men Salaaming Kelas at Lama Chokden . . J; jS- The Arrival of Reinforcements " lq. The Barca Tarjum and his Officers .... Iq6 "At Night I led my men up the mountain in a fierce snowstorm" ...... -,, , _,.,._ " 214 Buried in Snow . 2 o ILLUSTRATIONS XIX Dacoits with a Booty of Sheep .....

To face sage 224 Behind our Bulwarks ....... ,, 232 The Bandits laid down their Arms .... ,, 258 My Two Yaks ,, 276 Tucker Village and Gomba ...... ,, 294 TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS Page A Chinese Passport i My Faithful Companion ......... 8 Castle at Pithoragarh .... ..... 13 My Abode at Askote 15 A Young Man 18 Raot on Tree .......... .19 Head of a Young Man ......... 21 Two Men with Children sitting down 23 A Young Man 24 Raot Women of the Forest 29 The Rajiwar of Askote, his Brother and Son .... 30 Fakir Returning from Mansarowar ...... 32 The Rajiwar and his Brother in Dandies ..... 36 Darma Shokas and Tibetans ........ 41 Skoka Weavers .......... 48 Shrine and Flying Prayers ........ 53 Wrinkled Shoka .......... 56 Lai Sing Tokudar and his Brother 57 The Tent ............ 63 Nerpani Road ........... 65 The Nerpani Road .......... 68 The Nerpani Road .......... 69 The Chai-Lek (Pass) 70 A Narrow Gorge between Two Mountains ..... 71 The Gates of Garbyang 74 Matan Sing Chaprassi -77 Narenghiri Chaprassi ......... 77 The House where I Stayed at Garbyang 80 Shoka House with Strange Ladder 81 Shoka Houses ........... 83 Shoka Child being Smeared with Butter ..... 88 The Master of a High School, Altitude 10,940 Feet ... go Gungi Shankom .......... 91 Zazzela Mount, near Gungi ........ 92 Chiram ............ 93 Shoka Child Smeared with Butter which is Left to be Absorbed in the Sun ........... 94 Kuti .............. 96 Old Shoka Woman Smoking 97 Chanden Sing and the Daku Rolling up my Bedding . . . 100 A W ell-attended School 102 My Banker and Agent 106 The Valley of Garbyang .107 Motema, a Shoka Beauty ........ 109 On the Way to the Rambang no ILLUSTRATIONS Page XX Shoka Earrings . * . . . . • ■ • • .112 Silver Earrings of Tibetan Origin with Coral Beads . ■ 113 Shoka Woman Weaving * ■ • .114 Rambang Girls with Ornaments . . . ■ ■ ■ ■ Ir5 Weeping Women under White Cloth . ■ ■ ■ ■ .117 Shoka Funeral Pile 118 Women Dusting and Caressing the Lay Figure . . . .121 Women Dancing Round the Lay Figure 122 The Goat with Soul of Deceased being Fed 123 Goat with Soul and Clothes of Deceased . . . . .124 Sending the Goat away from the Village 125 Tearing out the Heart of the Goat. ...... 127 Kachi and his Relations .129 The Patan Summoning my Coolies from the Roof of his House . 130 The Chongur Bridge Previous to being Destroyed .... 134 The Photograph that Caused the Child's Death .... 141 Plan of Kuti Castle .......... 144 Mousing the Leper showing his Hands ...... 146 The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass ....... 150 The Snow Line at 16,000 Feet ....... 158 "I Roused the Rongba'' ......... 169 Sheep Carrying Load ......... 223 Our First View of Rakastal 247 Rakastal and Mansarowar Lakes ...... 248, 249 A Dacoit 255 Pack-saddles for Yaks ......... 261 White Woollen Coat and Sashes ....... 264 Woollen Socks 264 Man's Boot, Made at Sigatz ; Snow Boot ..... 265 Woman's Boot ; Boot Made in Lhassa ...... 265 Hat, as Worn by Officials . 266 A Black Yak . . 272 Silver Lhassa

Coins 281 Copper Coins; Earrings Worn by Men .281 Silver Charm ........... 282 Gold and Malachite Brooch 282 Mansarowar Pottery ......... 283 Entrance to the Tucker Temple 288 Stone with Inscription 298 Prayer-wheels — Ancient and Modern.

Showing Rolls of Prayers to Go Inside .......... 300 Stone with Inscription . oOI Branch with Thorns to Py&iL^Return of Evil Spirits . . 306 A Medicine-man . /ssy -®3^\ ■ ■ • . .313 The Panku Gomba . /. ' " _ A ' . ,Tr, A CHINESE PASSPOKT

Chapter I From London To Naini Tal

On leaving London, I intended to proceed via Germany to Russia, traverse Russian Turkestan, Bokhara and Chinese Turkestan, and from there enter Tibet. The Russian Govern ment had readily granted me a special permission to take free of duty through their territory my firearms, ammunition, provisions, photographic cameras, surveying and other scientific instruments, and moreover informed me, through H.E. Sir Nicholas O'Conor, then our Ambassador in St. VOL I A IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 2 Petersburg, that I should be privileged to travel on the military railway through Turkestan, as far as the terminus at Samarakand. I feel under a great obligation to the Russian Embassy in London for the extreme courtesy shown me, and I desire to acknowledge this at the outset, especially because that route might very likely have saved me much of the suffering and disappointment I was subjected to through going by way of India.

I was provided with introductions and credentials from the Marquis of Salisbury, the British Museum of Natural History, etc., I was carrying scientific instruments for the Royal Geographical Society, and I had a British and two Chinese passports. Having forwarded all my explosives by an ammunition vessel to Russia (the German railways absolutely refusing to carry cartridges), I heard to my dismay, only a few days previous to leaving London, that the steamer had stranded just before reaching her port of destination, and that grave doubts were entertained as to the possibility of saving even a portion of her cargo. This was at the time of the outbreak of the Turco-Greek War, and the Russians were reported to be mobilising their troops along the Afghan frontier. I did not wish to delay my journey, and although my prepara tions were complete for going through Russia, I nevertheless decided to abandon that plan and go to India, with a view to penetrating over the Himahlya into Tibet.

I sailed for India on March 19, on the P. and O. ss. Peninsular, and reached Bombay three weeks later. It was my first visit to India, and my first impression was certainly not a good one. The heat was intense, and signs of the plague were discernible everywhere. The streets were deserted and the hotels bad and dirty for want of THE PLAGUE 3 servants, who had abandoned the town in fear of the scourge. Accompanied by a Parsee friend, I went to several of the districts of Bombay chiefly affected by the disease, but I noticed, wherever I went, little else than a strong odour of disinfectants. It is true there were few houses in those parts which had not ten, twenty, and even more circular red marks, denoting as many deaths, and on one door, which I photographed, I counted no less than forty-nine circles.

But I was unable to gauge personally with any sort of accuracy the nature or extent of the disease, beyond seeing in the hospitals a few violent cases of bubonic attacks. On the day following my arrival in Bombay, I proceeded by rail to Bareilly, which was reached in three days, and from there one more night brought me to Kathgodam, the terminus of the railway line. Travelling partly by Tonga (a two-wheeled vehicle drawn by two horses) and partly on horseback, I found myself at last at Naini Tai, a hill station in the lower Himahlyas and the summer seat of the Govern ment of the North-West Provinces and Oudh, from whence I wrote to the Lieutenant-Governor, informing him of my intention to proceed to Tibet. I also called on the Deputy- Commissioner and made him fully acquainted with my plans. Neither one nor the other of these gentleman raised the slightest objection to my intended journey into the sacred Land of the Lamas.

Chapter II

Loa Is — A set of useful pack-saddle cases — Provisions and scientific outfit — Clothes and shoes — Medicines — Under way — The first march — Servants — How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing. I knew that from Naini Tai, 6407 feet (sixty feet above lake level), all my loads would have to be transported on the backs of coolies, and therefore they had to be divided into equal weights not exceeding twenty-five seers, or fifty pounds. I packed instruments, negatives, and articles liable to get damaged, in cases of my own make designed especially for rough usage. A set of four such cases, of well-seasoned deal wood, carefully joined and fitted, zinc-lined, and soaked in a special preparation of mine by which they were rendered water and air tight, could be made useful in many ways. Taken separately, they could be used as seats ; four placed in a row answered the purpose of bedstead ; three could be used as seat and table ; and the combination of four used in a certain manner made a punt or boat of quick, solid, and easy construction, by which an unfordable river could be crossed or soundings taken in the still waters of a lake.

The cases could also be used as baths for myself and my followers (if I could induce these to so fear indulge), and also in the developing of my negatives as tanks to properly wash my A SET OF USEFUL CASES 5 plates. I conjectured even that in case of emergency they might serve as water casks in arid regions, if I should have to traverse any. One of these boxes packed was exactly a coolie load, and two could be easily slung over a pack-saddle by means of straps and rings. It was due mainly to the stoutness and strength of these cases that, notwithstanding the amount of knocking about they got, my photographic and painting work, as well as my maps, instruments, etc., were really in no way injured until we fell into the hands of the Tibetans. Fortunately, the most important part of my work, from a scientific point of view, had already been accomplished.

My provisions were prepared for me by the Bovril Company after instructions furnished by me, with a view to the severe Tibetan climate and the altitudes we should find ourselves in. They contained a vast amount of fat and carbonaceous food, as well as ingredients easily digestible and calculated to maintain one's strength even in moments of unusual stress. I had them packed in tin cases and skin bags. I carried in a water-tight box 1000 cartridges for my 256* Mannlicher rifle, besides 500 cartridges for my revolver, and a number of hunting knives, skinning imple ments, wire traps of several sizes for capturing small mammals, butterfly nets, bottles for preserving reptiles in alcohol, insect-killing bottles (cyanide of potassium), a quantity of arsenical soap, bone nippers, scalpels, and all other accessories necessary for the collection of natural history specimens.

There were three sets of photographic apparatus in my outfit, and one hundred and fifty-eight dozen dry plates, as well as all adjuncts for the developing, fixing, etc. of the negatives as they were taken. The collecting materials were given me by the British Museum of Natural History, to which institution I had promised to present all specimens of fauna and flora I might collect during my journey. I had two sets of instruments for astronomical observation and for use in surveying (one of which had been furnished me by the Royal Geographical Society), such as the six-inch sextant, hypsometrical apparatus for measuring heights, with boiling-point thermometers specially constructed for very great altitudes ; two aneroids, one to 20,000 feet, the other to 25,000 feet ; three artificial horizons (one mercury, the others plate-glass with levels) ; a powerful telescope with astronomical eyepiece and stand ; a prismatic, a luminous, a floating, and two pocket compasses; maximum and minimum thermometers, a case of drawing instruments, protractors, parallel rules, tape rules, a silver water-tight half-chronometer watch and three other watches, section paper in books and in large sheets, Raper's and the Nautical Almanac for 1897 and 1898.

Not to neglect the artistic aspect of my expedition, I had provided myself with ample painting and drawing materials, and I trust to the appearance of my sketches in these volumes to prove that I did not carry them in vain. I was provided with a very light mountain tente-d'abri seven feet long, four feet wide, and three feet high. Well accustomed to the sort of travelling I was in for, I decided that I required for myself only a camel-hair blanket in the way of bedding. I reduced my clothing also to a minimum and made no difference in it from start to finish. The only thing I ever missed was my straw hat, which I wore up in the Himahlyas just as I had worn it in the broiling plains, because it seemed to me always the most comfortable head-gear. It was rendered unwearable through the clumsiness of one of my Shokas to whom I had lent it to carry in it some swan eggs (presented by a friendly Shoka), AT ALMORA 7 and who fell with it, or on it, to the detriment and destruction both of vessel and load.

After that 1 generally went about with my head uncovered, as I only had a small cap left, which was not comfortable. I wore medium thick shoes without nails, and never carried a stick, and I think it was due largely to the simplicity of my personal equipment that I was able, as will be seen presently, to climb to one of the gre-rtest altitudes ever reached by a human being* My provision of medicines cost me only half-a-crown, firm as I am in the belief that man, living naturally under natural conditions, and giving himself plenty of exercise, can be helped very little by drugs. And thus I started. On the first day I rode from Naini Tai to Almora, thirty miles by the lower and well-known road via Khairna. Almora (5510 feet) is the last hill station towards the frontier where I expected to find a European, or rather an Anglo-Indian, community, and I made it my headquarters for a few days.

It was my intention to obtain some reliable hill men, possibly Gourkhas, to accompany me. I applied in vain for this purpose to the Lieut. -Colonel of the ist 3rd Gourkha Regiment quartered in the station, duly showing letters, introductions, and documents from the highest authorities and institutions in England, plainly demonstrating the scientific object of my journey to Tibet. The superior authorities seemed open to negotiations had I been able to afford a wait of several months ; but, as this would have involved the postponement of my journey for a year on account of the passes leading into Tibet becoming impassable at the end of the summer, I decided to snap my * See Appendix. Letter by Dr. H.Wilson. fingers at all the red tape the job required, and to start on my journey without the Gourkhas.

As luck would have it, I came across a gentleman at Almora, a Mr. J. Larkin, who showed me great politeness and gave me much useful information with regard to the roads, the mode of travelling, etc. on the British side of the Tibetan frontier. He had himself travelled nearly up to the boundary the pre vious year, and knew that part of Kumaon better than any Anglo-Indian in the province. In fact, with the exception of Colonel Grigg, Commissioner of Kumaon, Mr. Larkin is the only other official who has any know ledge at all of the north east of Kumaon, now so MY FAITHFUL COMPANION neglected by the Government of the N.W.P Gourkhas being unobtainable, the question weighed heavily on my mind of obtaining plucky, honest, wiry, healthy servants, of whatever caste they might be, who would be ready for the sake of a good salary and a hand some reward to brave the many discomforts, hardships, and perils my expedition was likely to involve.

Both at Naini Tai and here scores of servants and Shikaris (sporting attendants) offered themselves. They one and all produced MY START FROM NA1NI TAL NO CERTIFICATES 9 "certificates" of good conduct, irreproachable honesty, good-nature and willingness to work, and praises un bounded of all possible virtues that a servant could possess. Each certificate was duly ornamented with the signature of a General, a Captain, a Lieut.-Governor, or some other considerable personage, but each bearer of such testimonial seemed sadly neglected by those who had been so enthusiastically pleased with his services, for he invariably commenced by asking for a loan of several rupees to purchase boots and blankets, and to enable him to support a wife with or without a family whom he would be leaving behind. I decided that my means did not permit of my supporting " the dear ones at home" of the two or three dozen followers I should require, and I made up my mind to wait and see whether I could not find men to suit me farther on my road without involving myself in the liability of supporting the entire population I left behind me.

I made only one excep tion. I was sitting one fine day in my room at the Dak Bungalow (post resting-house) when an odd creature entered and offered his services, salaaming me. "Where are your certificates ?" 1 asked. "Sahib, hum 'certificates' ne hai!" (" Sir, I have no certificates.") " Well, then I may employ you." I had previously had a good look at the fellow. His facial lines showed considerably more character and force than I had noticed in the features of other local natives. His attire was peculiar. He wore a white turban, and from under a short velvet waistcoat there protruded a gaudy flannel shirt in yellow and black stripes, which he wore oddly outside of his pyjamas instead of in them. He had no shoes, and vol i b , IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 10 carried in his right hand an old cricket stump, with which he " presented arms," as it were, every time that I came in and went out of the room.

I at once decided to try him. It was about nine o'clock in the morning, when I, having many people to see, handed Chanden Sing, for that was his name, a pair of shoes and some blacking. " Mind I find them clean when I return." " Acha, Sahib." (" All right, sir ! ") " You will find some brushes in my room." " Bahitt acha, Sahib." ("Very good, sir ! ") I left. At six p.m. when I returned to my quarters I found Chanden Sing still polishing my footgear with all his might. He had been at it the whole day and had used for the purpose my best hair and clothes brushes. " Oh, you budmash ! crab log, pagal ! " (" Oh ! you bad character ! bad man, fool ! ") I exclaimed, disgusted, making as much display as possible of the only three or four words I then knew of Hindustani. I snatched the blackened eirticles of toilet out of his hands, while he, with an air of wounded feelings, pointed out the wonderful results he had achieved.