Travels through Lower Canada and the United States of North America in the years 1806, 1807 and 1808. To which are added, biographical notices ... of some of the leading characters in the United States, etc

Front matter

/,,•/„/,;, I'lihli.,1,,;/ fl,f'-j- .//)(■/ M- (,i„/,K-A- X-./nr /',/r,»,v/lv/f<w TRAVELS THROUGH CANADA, AND THE UNITED STATES or NORTH AMERICA, IN THE YEARS 1806, 1807, <§• 1808. TO WHICH ARE ADDED, BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES AND ANECDOTES OF SOME OF THE LEADING CHARACTERS IN THE UNITED STATES. BY JOHN LAMBERT. IN TWO VOLUMES, WITH A MAP AND NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. VOL. I. THIRD EDITION, CORRECTED AND IMPROVED. LONDON : PRINTED FOR BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY, 47, PATERNOSTER-ROW J W. BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH; AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN. 1816. C. Baldwin, PrJtitM, n»w Bridfe-atrecu London- J. he obstacles which for nearly three years have retarded the publication of a second edition of these Travels being now removed, the work is again presented to the Public with such emendations and improvements as opportunity and further information have rendered available.

Its publication also at this particular moment will no doubt prove acceptable, as it affords a more recent account of those parts of North America which have lately been, or are likely to become, the seat of war, than any other work ofthe kind. It will enable the British reader to form a just opinion of the Canadian colonies, and to appre ciate the character of the neighbouring enemies who threaten their existence. The various manners, customs, and dispositions of the several classes of inhabitants, both a in Canada and the United States, are given with fidelity and truth; and the distinguishing features of society are de picted in their natural colours. It has been the author's object to describe things not as he had read or heard of them, but as he found them; and to exhibit to the European world the vast and rapid strides which the American continent is making to wards wealth, power, and dominion.

Few men thirty years ago would have believed the United States capable of at taining such a rank among nations as she holds at this day ; and yet it is nothing to that which might be expected from her. were her councils guided by wisdom. The two Canadas have also rapidly improved, but not in proportion to their neighbours, for colonies have not the vigour and spirit of independent states. The genius, and dis position of the French Canadians, who form so large a proportion of the inhabi tants of the Lower Province, are of so pe culiar a nature that they require more than an ordinary attention on the part of their Government. Much, however, has cer- V tainly been accomplished in the manage ment of a people so opposite to ourselves both in religious and political feelings. The wise and beneficial measures which have been pursued towards the Canadians reflect the highest credit on the British Government.

Preface

TO THE SfiCOND EDITION. XI chief*, winds up the campaign by going distracted ! ! The province of Upper Canada, which has borne the chief brunt of this unnatural contest, was before the former war, nearly one vast wilderness : a few forts and small settlements for the convenience of the fur trade, were all that relieved the gloomy appearance of interminable forests and im mense lakes. Since the conclusion of that war, the settlement and cultivation of Upper Canada have been an object of much attention on the part of the British Government. The Loyalists who were driven from the United States found here a comfortable asylum, and, together with numerous families who emigrated from Scotland, soon formed a respectable colony. The settlements were also considerably increased by the disbanded officers and soldiers who had served in America.

These people received large grants of land from Government as a reward for their services ; and either cultivated the spots themselves, or sold them to others who * General Dearborn, Secretary at War.

PREFACE.

TO THE SECOND EDITION. did. This zeal for peopling the Upper Pro vince met with every encouragement from home, as it tended to forrri'a1 strong barrier against any future invasion from the neighbouring States. Towns of considerable magnitude were in a few years constructed upon the sites of old forts and blockhouses ; and the shouts of hunters and the Indian warhoop now gave place to the busy hum of trade and commerce. The Lakes be came covered with ships instead of canoes ; and every town resembled a sea-port. Kingston, York, Queenstown and Nia gara, are the principal towns of the Upper Province. York, , the capital, is situated on Lake Ontario, and has every prospect of becoming a city of much importance in that distant part of the world. It possesses great facilities for commerce and navigation.

The Americans got possession of this town in the early part of the year, but were soon driven out of it by our troops. The vast lakes which cover so great a portion of this province, have brought into action the naval tactics of both powers, and these oceans of fresh water have proved extremely serviceable in contributing to the defence of Upper Canada. The Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Su perior, are capable of receiving the largest fleets. One of them, viz. Superior, is up wards of 4oo miles in length, and 1500 in circumference. The depth of these vast lakes in many places cannot be ascertained. And the storms which frequently occur, are often more destructive than those which happen on the ocean. The climate of Upper Canada is more mild and temperate than that of the Lower Province, and for that reason is preferred to the latter by most of the European emigrants who proceed to North America.

Vegetation of all kinds is most abundant ; the harvests are extremely luxuriant ; and by many people Upper Canada is termed the garden of North America. One un pleasant attendant on the warm climate of this province, is the prodigious number of noxious reptiles, particularly rattle snakes, which infest the woods and islands every where : cultivation, however, is rapidly destroying them. The forests abound with animals of every kind capable of yield ing food and raiment: and the Indians, who reside here in great numbers, live al most entirely on the profits arising from the chase. The skins of the animals are sold for considerable sums, and the bodies serve them for food. The commerce of Upper Canada has within these few years increased amazingly ; and large quantities of flour, potash, timber, and other native. productions, have been exported to England.

The English laws entirely prevail in this province. Direct taxation is but trifling ; and any man with a moderate sum of money, has it in his power to acquire a very handsome competency. The manners, customs, and amusements of the people resem ble those of the British nation : and though society is yet in its infancy, it is not wanting in those requisites that make it agreeable to strangers. The Upper Province is indeed a valuable appendage to the British empire, and, in connexion with Lower Canada, is es sentially necessary to the maintenance of its power in North America. It is tbe magazine from whence this country derives considerable resources, in some of which it even excels the Lower Province. Without the latter, however, it would have no opening for the diffusion of its commerce and productions to foreign parts.

The St. Law rence is the great outlet for Upper Canada. Quebec is the key of all our possessions in that quarter, and is the only port through which the productions of the two provinces can find their way to Europe. While we keep possession of this strong hold, which is now become almost a second Gibraltar, and have the pre-eminence on the lakes and rivers of Canada, neither province can be wrested from us. These prefatory observations respecting Upper Canada have been called for by the events which have occurred since the pub hcation of the first edition of these Travels. At that time the war was only in embryo, and no particular interest could attach to any place from military events. Since then it has acquired a greater interest by the ope rations of the war with the United States, though they have by no means been con fined entirely to that province : Lake Champ lain and the neighbourhood of Montreal have felt their influence : and it is probable that the Americans, finding themselves baffled in all their attempts to subjugate the Upper Province, may be induced in the en suing campaign to invade Lower Canada; in which case these volumes will be found to possess a greater claim to the public attention than any other account of North America extant.

Nov. 1st, 1813. " What a large volume of adventures may be grasped within this little span of life, by him who interests his heart in every thing ; and who having eyes to see what time and chance are perpetually holding out to him, as he journey - eth on his way, misses nothing he can fairly lay his hands on ! " Sterne. A had long entertained a desire to visit the American continent, and to explore those parts which have been rendered in teresting by the glories of a Wolfe and a Washington. In the one I had to see the effect of a foreign government upon the minds and manners of a people widely differing from ourselves : and in the other, the effect of a neiu government upon those who a few years ago were British subjects, but who now hold a distinguished rank in the scale of independent nations. In short. vol. i. b

Introduction

TO THE FIRST EDITION. to see the new world, and to tread on that ground which little more than three centu ries before was unknown, wras an object which I ardently longed to accomplish. My wishes in this respect were at length gratified ; and I arrived at Quebec in the autumn of I806. I had previously read se veral authors who had written on Canada ; but I had not been long arrived, before I found that a considerable alteration and improvement had taken place within the last twenty years. The descriptions then given, were no longer perfect. Many in teresting particulars had likewise never been noticed ; and Lower Canada seemed to be as little known to the people of England, as the deserts of Siberia. < I therefore availed myself of this favour able opportunity to collect information, and to make myself acquainted with the present state of Canada.

Every thing was of an interesting nature; for though the province belonged to the British Govern ment, yet the majority of the people were totally different from those whom I had been accustomed to see; their manners, customs, language, and religion, were all new to me ; and I found myself at once upon a strange soil, and among a foreign people. After residing a twelvemonth in Canada, I visited the United States, a country, whose real state and condition is almost as little known in England, as that of Canada ; and the manners and disposition of whose inha bitants are seldom viewed but through the false medium of popular prejudice. What ever truth there may have been in the accounts given of the United States by former writers, they present at this day, but imper fect or distorted pictures of the country and its inhabitants.

Those who have not seen the United States for the last twenty years, would be astonished at the alteration that has taken place. No country, perhaps, ever increased in population and wealth, or rose into importance among other nations, more rapidly than the United States. Within the space of thirty years they have emerged from the obscurity of colonies, into the rank of independent States ; governed by a constitution altogether novel in the preb INTRODU«TION TO THE FIRST EDITION. XX sent times, but which, whatever defects it may contain, has proved the source of all. their prosperity. The people of England are too apt to hold the character of the Americans in trifling estimation ; but when it is known that their country is fast ap proaching to importance, that their imports and exports already amount to one-half of those of Great Britain, wrhile their annual expenditure is not a tiventieth, and their national debt not a fortieth part of ours, we cannot avoid giving them our meed of admiration.

It is to be hoped that the two nations will no longer give way to blind and acrimonious prejudices against each other, but endeavour to cultivate the blessings of peace, instead of the horrors of war. I certainly felt a lively interest in visiting the United States, with which 1 was but imperfectly acquainted from written accounts. My eyes and ears were open to every thing I saw or heard ; and though I met with a people whose manners and customs differed but little from those of my own countrymen, yet there was a novelty in many things which arrested my attention, and was not always unworthy of notice. The result of my labours I now lay before the public, and trust that their liberality and candour will make allowances for the errors and deficiencies of a first attempt. If I have been too prolix in some things, it has been occasioned by a desire to impart all the information which I considered useful or interesting, and by looking upon a variety of subjects, new to me, with more interest perhaps than they really deserved.

If I may have said but little upon other subjects, it is because much has been before said of them, and I wished only to touch most upon such things as were possessed of the greatest de gree of novelty or importance ; not but that it is a difficult task to speak only of what others have omitted ; for, as Dr. Johnson truly observes, " to oblige the most fertile genius to say only what is new, would be to contract bis volumes to a very few pages." In the course of my tour through Lower Canada, and part of the United States, my object has been to describe the people as I found them ; to remove the veil of unjust

INTRODUCTION.

TO THE FIRST EDITION. prejudice, and the gloss of flattery. If in some places it may be supposed that I have spoken with too much freedom, I can only say, that it is the freedom of truth; yet, where truth has obliged me to speak freely, I have done it only from a consciousness of its being of public utility, and not from a desire to hurt the feelings of any individual. In expressing my opinion of such things as offered themselves to my notice, I hope that I shall not be accused of presumption by those who may differ from me : we are all anxious to learn the thoughts of each other, and a man writes to little purpose who is afraid of speaking his real sentiments. A traveller who visits foreign nations should bring home that knowledge and information which may be of service to his own country; such as may supply some want, or mitigate some evil : but he would ill perform tbe duty incumbent upon him, were he ser vilely to flatter the errors and prejudices, which he should endeavour to correct.

Amidst the variety of manners and dis positions which distinguish the natives of every country, a stranger meets with cha- XX1U racters of all descriptions, and often of the most contradictory nature. Hence, even his own opinions are, at times, rendered almost irreconcileable ; and he himself is at a loss how to judge of the people whom he wishes to describe. In most countries there are certain traits and peculiarities in the natives, which may, in some measure, form what is called a national character ; yet to designate a people thus indiscriminately, is as erroneous in judgement, as to sum up the total of a man's disposition from particular lineaments of his countenance. If, there fore, opposite qualities are found, and seem ingly contradictory characters displayed, in the people whom I have attempted to deli neate, they are such as characterize human nature more or less: for perfection is unat tainable in this life ; and virtue may predo minate where vice exists.

Upon the same principle, every country has its advantages and defects ; and whether it be the frozen deserts of the Eskimaux, or the luxurious plains of the Italian, each prefers that country which gave him birth. Hence, while I acknowledged and admired

INTRODUCTION.

TO THE FIRST EDITION. the easy independence and happiness of the Canadians, the rising prosperity and freedom of the Americans, I could not look back on the country I had left, without sentiments of greater veneration and attachment than any I had before felt. I compared the advantages and defects which each country pos sessed, and the result was decidedly in favour of my own. I have considered it indispensable to say thus much in explanation of my sentiments, not for the purpose of laying claim to merit which I do not deserve, but because I venture before the public as a stranger, whose principles are unknown, and may therefore be misconceived. As to the work itself, I submit it to the impartial judgement of the public, with the utmost deference to their opinion, by which it must stand or fall. CONTENTS VOL. I, Preface to the Second Edition Page iii Introduction to the First Edition xvii

Chapter I

Passage to the Grand Bank. Fine Weather. Trepasse Bay. Newfoundland. Description of that Island. Dearness of Provisions. Gale of Wind. Alarming Night. Capt. Cool's Charts. Dreadful Shipwreck. Uncertainty of a Sailor's Life. The protecting Power of a Supreme Being. Magdalen Islands. Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. Passage through the Gulf. Island of Anticosti. Father Point. Facetious Pilot. Confession of the Ladies. Cannot keep a Secret. Story of the Priest and the Bible. Arrival at Quebec. Beautiful Appearance of that City and the surrounding Country 1

Chapter II

jHire of Houses at Quebec. Roofs. Chimney-sweepers. Narrow Streets of the Lower Town. Cape Diamond. Dreadful Accidents. Mountain-street. Steep Ascent. Breakneck Stairs. Singular Escape of a Boy. Canadian Stores. Taverns. Union Hotel. Irish Landlord. General Montgomery's Attack on Quebec. Sudden Defeat and Death. Application to the Canadian Government for his Bones. General Arnold. Intendant's Palace contents. XXVI

Chapter III

Origin of the Name of Quebec. Its strong natural Situation and Advantages. Capability of Defence in case of War with the United States. Origin of the War between the Iroquois and Algonquins. Impolitic Conduct of Champlain. Fortifications of Quebec. Expedition of Sir William Phipps. New Improvements. Martello Towers. Wolfe's Cove. Battle of the Plains of Abraham. Death of General Wolfe. Ingratitude of his Countrymen in Canada. His Statue in St. John's Street. Garrison Troops. Colonel Glasgow Commandant. Inspecting Field. Officers of the Canadian Militia Page 31

Chapter IV

Chateau St. Louis. Improvements. Public Buildings of the Upper Town. Court House. English Cathedral. Fire at the Monastery of Franciscan Friars. College of Jesuits. Mode of Living of the Jesuits. Canadian Proverb. Indefatigable Perseverance. Genius and Ability. Anecdote of a German Jesuit. Jean Joseph Casot, the last of the Cana. dian Jesuits. Hotel Dieu. Seminary. Remarkable Anecdote of a 3'oung Lady. Convent of St. Ursule, General Hospital. Useful Avocations of the Nuns. Benefit of Monastic Institutions in Canada. Begging Friars. Roman Catholic Clergy . „ 4.9

Chapter V

Upper Town of Quebec. New buildings. Butchers' Market. Show of Meat the Day after Good Friday. Feasting after Lent. Price of Provisions. Frozen Provisions kept for five Months. Extravagant Price of European Goods. Tommy Cods. Fish. Wild Pigeons. A Market Scene. Poor Mulrooney. The Habitant outwitted. Stinking Cheese an CONTESTS. KXV11 Epicurean Delicacy. Butter from Green Island. Frozen Milk. Maple Sugar. Origin of eating sweet Things with Meat. Price of Articles at Market. Canadian Currency Page 67

Chapter VI

Curious Jargon in the Market-place. Bon Tabac. An Anecdote of an Irishman and an Habitant. Moccasins. Swamp Boots. Strawberries. Raspberries. Fruit brought to Market. Vegetables. Potatoes formerly looked upon as poisonous by the French. Rows of Cabbages and Onions. Bread. Price regulated by the Magistrates. Large Exportation of Wheat. Colonel Caldwell. Breweries established at Quebec. Hop Plantation at Sillery. Settlement of the Algonquins. Emily Montague. Wines drunk in Canada. Rum. Sugars. Quantity of Tea received from the United States. Tobacco. Salt. Trades and Professions S7

Chapter VII

Climate of Lower Canada. Severity of the Cold. Drifting of the Snow in the Streets up to the Garret Windows. Frozea Channel. Passage over the broken Masses of Ice. Canoes. Noise of the floating Ice. Travelling in Winter. Warm Clothing. Frost-bitten Cheeks. Clear Sky. Supposed Alteration in the Climate. Journals of the Weather in 1745 and 1807. Canadian Exaggeration. Use of Stoves. Open Fire-places. Observations upon the Change of Climate. Longevity in Canada. Breaking up ofthe Ice. Arrival ofthe first vessel. Progress of Vegetation. Wet Months. Thunder and Lightning. Severe Storm at Quebec. State of the Thermometer. Plagues of Canada. Scorching Summers. Agreeable Autumns 106

Chapter VIII

Soil of Lower Canada. Meadows. Cultivated Lands. Mode of Farming. Few Orchards. Indian Corn. Tobacco. CONTENTS. Culinary Roots. Seigniory of Grondines. Barren Soil. Price of Land. Gradual Improvement. Want of Enter prise among the Canadians. Formed themselves on the Model of their Forefathers. View of the Shores of the St. Lawrence. Extensive Chain of Settlements. Beautiful Scene. Settlement at Stoneheim Township. Clearing of Land. Canadian Cattle. The first Horse seen in Canada. Poultry. American Horse-Dealers. Rough Treatment of Canadian Horses Page 129 CFIAPTER IX. Population of LowerCanada. Different Statements reconciled. Census of the Province. Present Number of Inhabitants. Statistical Statement for 1808. Irish and Scotch Emigrants. French Settlers. Acadians. Character of the French Habitans, or Countrymen.

Description of their Houses. Cleanly Maxims. Picture of the Interior of a Habitant House. Mode of Living among the Canadian Peasantry. Anecdote of a Dish of Tea. Pernicious Effects of Rum. Fracas in the Market-Place. Drunkenness of the Market-People. Portrait of the Habitant. Old-fashioned Dress of the Women. Resources of the Habitans 141

Chapter X

Handsome Children. Pernicious Effects of the Stove. Manners of the Habitans. Modesty. Genius. General Deficiency of Education. Necessity for diffusing a Knowledge ofthe English Language more generally throughout theProvince. Marriages. Calashes. Berlins. Carioles. Covered Carioles. Laws of the Road. Civility of the Habitans. Partiality to Dancing and Feasting on certain Days. Vanity of a young Fellow in painting his Cheeks. Superstition of an old Lady. Anecdote of the Holy Water. Corrupt French spoken in Canada. Observations upon the Habitans CONTENTS.

Chapter XI

Government of Lower Canada. Governors. Executive and Legislative Councils. House of Assembly. Provincial Parliament. Canadian Orators. Oath of a Member. Debates. Ignorant Members. Anecdote of a Legislator. Laws of Lower Canada. Courts of law. English and French Laws. The Rights of Seigniors. Feudal Tenures. Coutume de Paris. Fiefs. Succession to Estates. Division of Property. Wife's Dower. Community of Property by Marriage. Timely Interference of a Quarter Cask of Madeira, and Piece of Russia Sheeting, in the Purchase of a House. Arrests. Canadian Lawyers. Anecdote of a Governor. Evil Consequences of being at Law. Tedious Laws. Chief Justice Allcock. Attorney-General. Receipts and Expenses of the Government. Forges of St. Maurice. Taxes. Turnpikes Page 1 79

Chapter XII

Commerce of Lower Canada. Settlement of the French in the Country. Situation of the Colony in 1765. Improper Conduct ofthe British Traders. Dissatisfaction ofthe Canadian Noblesse and Peasantry. General Murray's Letter to the Lords of the Council. Table of Imports and Exports of Canada, from 1754 to 1807. Progressive Increase of Commerce. Wheat. Exports of 1808. Residence of the Governor-general, necessary for the Welfare ofthe Colony. Fur Trade. Mr. M'Tavish. North-West Company. Michillimakinak Company. Outrage committed by the Americans on Lake Ontario 213

Chapter XIII

Trade between Canada and the United States. Burlington Memorial to Congress. American Merchants settling at CONTENTS. XXX Montreal. Interest for Money not allowed to Catholics in Canada. Rafts of Timber. Productions of Upper Canada. Prosperity of that Province. Necessity of having good Roads. Manufactures. Iron-works at Three Rivers and Batiscan. Ship-building. Reduction of the Imports of English aud East India manufactured Goods. Balance of Trade in favour of the United States. Smugglers. Evasion of the Embargo Laws. Vermontese in a State of Insurrection. Inferior Commodities preferred by the Canadians. Diversity of Opinion respecting the establishing a Bank in Lower Canada. Imports and Exports of 1807 and 1808. Duties payable on imported Goods. Post-Office Regulations. Roads and Distances, &c Page 239

Chapter XIV

Society of the Towns in Lower Canada. Different Classes of Society. Education. Investigation of the Causes of mental Disability. Defects of Education of the original Settlers. Degrading Policy ofthe French Government. State ofthe People before the Conquest. Levity of the Canadians. Extravagance and Dissipation. Ignorance of the British Settlers. Change of Manners after the Conquest. The Ledger and Waste Book preferred to splendid Entertainments. Rising Importance of the British Merchants. Degradation ofthe French Noblesse. Female Boarding-Schools. Boarding-School Misses. Manners ofthe French Canadian Ladies in 1749, and in 1808. Anecdote of Mademoiselle Morals of Canadian Society. Female Servants. Scandal. North-west Merchants 273

Chapter XV

Amusements and Diversions. Quebec Assembly. Bal de Societe. Private Tea and Card Parties. Routs at the Chateau. The Theatre. Present State of Canadian Theatricals. Drunken Performers. Arrival of a Company from Boston. CONTENTS. XXXI Concerts. Freemasons' Lodges. The Duke of Kent. Barons' Club. Grand Entertainment on the Installation ot the Knights. Society of Rousticouche. Canadian Bond- Street. Billiards. Carioling. Dress of the Ladies and Gen tlemen. Officers of the Army in Tippets. Mutations of Fashions. Retrospect of British Fashions. Pyramidal Head dresses. Old and New Fashions compared. Long-toed Shoes, prohibited under pain of Cursing by the Clergy. Tapering Waists. Races. Mode of Kissing on New Year's Day. Doors. Stoves. Boarding-Houses Page 297

Chapter XVI

Literature, Arts, and Sciences. Marquis de la Galissoniere. His extensive Knowledge. Literature in Canada. Almanacs. Quebec and Montreal Gazettes. Newspapers. Quebec Mercury. Canadian Courant. Le Canadien. Abuse of the Liberty of the Press. Public Peculation. Courier de Quebec. Newspaper Warfare. Public Library. Novels and Romances. Amatory Poems. Modern Refinement in Writing. Tom Jones and Roderic Random. Novel Reading. Pictures of fictitious Life. Accomplishments of the Canadian Ladies. Progress and Influence of Music on Society. " O, Lady Fair." Oilman's Daughter. America, Mistress of the World. Model of Quebec 318

Chapter XVII

Roman Catholic Clergy. Religious Orders. Toleration of the Catholic Religion. Character of the Canadian Priests. Zeal ofthe Nuns. Double Funeral. Fetes and Holidays. Number of Clergy in Canada. Errors and Corruption ofthe Romish Church. Fallen State. Harmless at the present Day. Canadian Catholics. Irish Catholics. Catholic Emancipation. Disinterested Conduct in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth. Unanimity. Religion of our Ancestors. Reasons why it should be preferred. Variety of Religions. CONTENTS. Exemplary Conduct ofthe Canadian Catholics. Conversion. Anecdote of First Cousins. Protestant Clergy. BishopofQue bec. Trafalgar Dinner. Protestant Religion in Danger 333

Chapter XVIII

Aborigines of North America. Domiciliated Indians. Indians of Lorette. French Peculiarities. Groups of Savages. Portrait of the Indians. Squaws. Contrast between the Indians and the Squaws. Dwellings. Chapel at Lorette. Jesuit Missionaries. Indian Dress. Cradle Boards. Encampment at Point Levi. The Female Pugilists. Delivery of the Presents. Indian Chief. Sagacity of the Indians. Wigwams. Bullock's Head. Night Scene. Indian Dance. Pretty Squaws. Distribution of Rum. Passage across the River at Night. Attempts to civilize the Indians. Travels in the Interior. Voyage up the Missouri. Anecdote of a Cree. Indian Population. Presents. Civilization. Degenerated State ofthe Indians. Wretched Appearance. Indian Prophet Page 353.

Chapter XIX

Face of Lower Canada. Mountain of Quebec. Black Lime Slate. Minerals. Mineral Springs. Rock Stones. Remarkable Earthquake of 1663. Particulars translated from the French Jesuits' Journal. Dreadful Night. Sickness and Giddiness of the Head. Wreck of Nature. Forests overturned. Springs choked up. Rivers lost. Violent Shocks. Mountains swallowed up. General Devastation. New Lakes and Islands. Three extraordinary Circumstances. Wonderful Preservation. . Extraordinary Protection of Divine Providence. Natural Curiosities. Falls of Saguenay, Montniorency, and Chaudiere. An Excursion up the River. Through the Woods. Melancholy Accident. Anecdote of two young Ladies. Arrival at the Falls of Chaudiere. The Cataract. Return to Quebec. ' Rapids of Richlieu. Cascades. Rapids of the Cedars CONTENTS. XXXIII

Chapter XX

Canadian Animals. Anecdote of a young Man. Animals of the Forest. Amphibious Animals. Canadian Hare. Birds. Turkey. Partridge. Fish. Reptiles. Snakes. Bull Frog. Excellent Fricasee of a Bull Frog. Lizards. Terrebins. Insects. Locusts. Extraordinary Devastation. Musquitoes. Bees. The Ephemera, or Day Fly. Fire Fly. Phosphorescent Light which it emits resembles distant Stars, or Sparks of Fire. Delicate Formation. Noxious Insects. Page 413.

Chapter XXI

Forest Trees. Shrubs. Plants. Pine Trees. Clearing of Lands. Singular Adventure of Miss Van C . American Oak. Birch Tree. Maple Tree. Cedar. Ginseng. Capillaire. Sumach. Poisonous Sumach. Herb a la Puce. Gold Flies. Cotton Plant, or Cotonier, yields Sugar resembling Honey. Onion Tree. Sweet Garlic. Wild Turnip. Tripe de Rochers. Indian Tea. Aromatic Grass. Cranberry. Juniper Tree. Sun Flowers. Oil extracted from the Seed, equal to Florence Oil. Hemp and Flax 427

Chapter XXII

Leave Quebec. Mode of Travelling. Steam Boat. Schooners. Voyage to Three Rivers. Beautiful Scenes. Eel Traps. Spearing Fish by Torch Light. Second Journey to Three Rivers by Land. Pass the River at Cape Rouge. Arrive at Jacques Cartier. Rapid Torrent. New Bridge. Post House. Monsieur Garnoux the Blacksmith. Deschambault. Seigniory of Grondines. St. Anne. Charles Lanaudiere, Esq. Grand Voyer of the Province. Batiscan. Iron Works. Champlain. Rivulets. Bridges. Canadian Farms. Roman Catholic Crosses. Post House at Cape Madelaine. Arrival at Three Rivers 453 VOL. i. c CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXin. Town of Three Rivers. Houses. Streets. Musquitoes. Fleas. Baron La Hontan. Public Buildings. Fire at the Convent. Intrepidity of a Soldier. Escape of a Nun with an Emigrant Priest. New Convent. Visit to the Nuns of St. Ursule.

Abbe de Calonne, Cure of the Convent. Portrait of the Grand Vicar. Setting Watches during the Litany. Monastery. Billiard Room. Canadian Fencibles. Deserters. Death of a Canadian. The Irish Landlady. Anecdote of Colonel T . Trade of Three Rivers. Store-keepers. Visit to the Forges of St. Maurice. Iron Works. Brickmaker. Society. Party Spirit. The Election of Mr. Ezekiel Hart. Amusements. Scuffle in the Market-Place. Swelled Necks. Mad Girl. Foundlings 465