With the Yacht and Camera in Eastern Waters. (Illustrated in photomezzotype.)

Preface

. Both my critics and the general public have agree ably surprised me. Of the thirty-five newspapers which kindly noticed my first book,* thirty-three were so friendly in their comments, that the most exacting Author could not wish more ; while the public have shown their appreciation in a very prac tical manner. I now venture a second work, in the hope that my readers may feel an equal interest in the places I have since visited, the photographs here given, and the short descriptions of those harbours which accompany the pictures taken. In my last book there were a few printer's errors, which, I fear, gave my readers some slight an noyance ; my annoyance was very considerable. As for example, when so well known a Cape as " Spartivento " was spelt " Sparlivento," and even a better known locality, " Salerno," was spelt "Saler mo."

I must also, in this place, alter a passage, which was correct when it was written, but which is now incorrect. I alluded, in that work, to an incident which I spoke of as happening at Palermo, when three of my crew were unjustly fined for supposed smuggling. I then said, "the fines imposed were never returned." Just after my book was in * "With the Yacht, Camera, and Cycle in the Mediterranean." print, and six months after the event, I received the money back from our Foreign Office, which the Government at Rome had ordered to be returned to me. The greatest possible care has now been taken in the production of this book, and I sincerely hope that no errors may creep in. I have a word of apology to offer to my tourist readers, who may be inclined to think that I have divided my book into too many chapters.

As a matter of experience, I have found that on board every yacht, the guests invariably bring with them a large number of books to read, as they are likely, they think, to have much time on their hands. They certainly have plenty of time, but, as a rule they read very little, the truth of the matter being, that there are so many passing interests on board every vessel, that continuous reading is very difficult. Of course, there are some exceptions. I have a friend, exceedingly well known in the scientific world, and equally well known in financial circles and in the House of Commons, who never has a book out of his hands. I verily believe he sleeps with one. Yet he is the most charming of all possible com panions, for he tells you that he can, and very often does, take his attention off his book, and give all his attention to others without any inconvenience, so you may go and talk to him when you like, and he is delighted.

But who is to write books for these exceptionally endowed people ? No, I write for the ordinary yachtsman and tourist. He wants to take up his book readily and put it down easily ; so, for him, short chapters. Also, to thoroughly understand what he is reading about, he likes a true picture before him of the places described, so photographs of these localities are a necessity ; I have tried to oblige. I could have wished, for every reason, that we had been favoured with better weather during our Eastern cruise, chiefly because, owing to its badness, I have been compelled seriously to curtail the number of photographs I had hoped to offer, several pictures not having come out sufficiently well to publish ; there were no less than no of these. While some of the selected ones, which I have given, are hardly as clear as I should have desired.

Many others I have been more fortunate with, having watched for and secured favourable glimpses of light, and that light just coming at the right moment when I wanted it. In regard to the encouragement given me to persevere in my desire to lay the whole Mediter ranean before my readers, by means of photos and short descriptions, I certainly owe my best thanks to Commodore H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, for the kindly interest he took in my first work, and the special permission he gave me to dedicate that work to him. X Thanks are also due to many friends who, in a variety of ways, have given me their help, both in obtaining photographs and assisting me generally in my work. Amongst these, I should like specially to mention Major Edgar Lambart, R.A., and Mrs. Lambart, Mr. Maxse (British Consul at the Piræus) and Mrs. Maxse, who all aided me with their most kind and generous assistance.

In my literary work, I further got many useful hints from Mr. Egerton (British Minister at Athens), Mrs. Egerton (nee Princess Lobanoff), and Mr. Cecil Smith (the head of the British School at Athens). To the authors of other guide books, whose works were of service to me before, I am again indebted. In the appendix, at the end, I have drawn special attention to a scheme for improving the harbour in the Piræus, and I have given extracts from the Field newspaper, bearing upon the revival of the Olympian Games at Athens, which sports, if continued year after year, will form a very considerable attraction for both yachtsmen and tourists. I feel that I am but a pioneer in the work I have undertaken, and the work of no pioneer can be said to be perfect ; so my reader, though unable,, possibly, to give unqualified praise to my efforts will, never theless, I hope, realize that a fresh departure in guide books has been made, and he may, possibly, be disposed to admit that, these endeavours are not without some value. "ROSENEATH." contents.

Chapter I. Page

Fitting out the Roseneath — Start from Leghorn — The crew — Anchor in Port Longone, in the Island of Elba — A water spout — Napoleon's house I

Chapter II

Anchor at St. Stefano — Description of Anchorage — Civita Vecchia — Italian men-of-war at Gaeta — Santa Lucia — Courtesy of Italian Officers — Santa Venere — Arrival at Messina — H. M.S. Cruiser — Sport on the Albanian Coast — Guyo Harbour, Island of Paxo — Ithaca — Harbour of Vathy — Mediterranean fish ... ... ... ... ... ... 4

Chapter III

Castle of Ulysses — Fountain of Arethusa — Cephalonia — Port of Argostoli— Kindness of Vice-Consul — -Drives about Harbour — -Hire of horses and carriages — Water — Coal — Patras — Wines — Game of tennis — Itiar — Ruins of Delphos — Temple of Apollo, &c. ... ... ... ... ... ... 7

Chapter IV

Corinth Canal — Procure water — Piræus — Provisions — War cruisers in Harbour — -Athens — School of Archælogy — Poros Harbour — Beautiful anchorage — Bad weather — Good water 10

Chapter V

Leave Poros Harbour — Zea Island — Port St. Nikolo— Anchor at Mykonos in the Korpho — Good anchorage — Delos — Island of Syra — Heavy squall — Ruins at Old Delos ... ... 13

Chapter VI

Call at Syra for Provisions — Return to Delos — Hermopolis — Description of Syra — Sail for Chios — Land at Kastro — Anchorage not good — Christmas at Smyrna — -Advice to Yachtsmen — Harbour of Foujes or Foggia — North Port of Mitylene — Rough weather

Chapter VII. Pack

Arrival at Chanak, in the Dardanelles — Warning to Yachtsmen — Anchor in Southern Harbour — Severe weather — Game cheap — Anchor at Kutali, South West Stefano Lighthouse — Beware of the Bosphorus in January ... ... ••• 24

Chapter VIII

Arrival at Constantinople — Description of the City — Sultan going to Mosque, Yildiz Kiosk Palace — Pera — Turkish battle ships and torpedo boats — General notes ... ... 28

Chapter IX

The Bosphorus, beautiful scenery — State of the Country — Passage home through the Dardanelles ... ... ... ... 35

Chapter X

Sailed from Constantinople — Buzuk Chekmejeh — Sail for Gallipoli — Leave Gallipoli — Niagara Liman — Morto Bay — Gymno Island — Snug anchorage — Smyrna — Religious Question — Advice as to coaling ... ... ... ... 40

CHAPTER XL

Sighajik Harbour — Good milk and fresh eggs — Scala Nova — Tagani Port on East Samos Island — Chelukoi Harbour, in Mundayah Bay — Good shooting : wild boar and fowl — Port Stavros — Island of Patmos — Priests' tradition ... ... 46

Chapter XII

Anchor at Delos — Blowing a gale — Syra — Charming Harbour — Good and cheap coal and water — Piræus — St. Nikolo — Island of the Zea — Gulf of Corinth — Repair machinery — Gulf of Vostitza — Advice to Yachtsmen — Corfu — Inns and accommodation for travellers, &c. — Historical notes — Albanian coast — Landing place — Albania — Strada Marina, a most charming promenade — Excavations at Corfu — Olives — Drives and walks— One-gun Battery — Stormy crossing at Gallipoli — Warning to Yachtsmen — Good anchorage at Cotrone — Reggio — Very rough passage — Messina — Palinuro — Naples ... ... ...

Chapter XIII. Page

Naples — Entering Bay, delightful scenery — Ponza Harbour — Civita Vecchia — Gaeta — Capital holding ground for an choring — Rome — Island of Elba — Port Longone, Leghorn — Repairing in Italy ... ... ... ... ... ... 74

Chapter XIV

Notes on crews, engineers, &c. — How to engage Italian crews — Wages, clothing, &c. — Why I painted my Yacht white 79

Chapter XV

Exceptionally bad weather — Remarks on weather in Spring, Summer, and Winter — Cycling and Shooting in the Islands of the Archipelago — Providing medical comforts — Information respecting food, wines, &c. — Notes on your laundry — Advice as to coaling ... ... ... ... ... ... 86

Chapter XVII

General climatic conditions — Mediterranean fever — Great authority on coins at Chios — Souvenirs forfriends — Instructions as to sending home goods — Habitual neglect of letters in Eastern Post Offices — Value of Bible knowledge to travellers in the Mediterranean — General remarks on scenery — Conclusion ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 106 Appendix. ILLUSTRATIONS. Shooting Companions.... ... ... ... ... Frontispiece. Map ... ... ... ... ... To face Preface. Roseneath ... ... To face page x. Preface. Italian Provision Boat ... ... ... ... ... To face page I Leghorn Harbour, Inner Basin ... ... ... ,, ,, 2 Gaeta Cathedral ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 4 „ Anchorage ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 5 H.M.S. "Cruiser " leaving Corfu ...* ... ... ,, ,, 5 Guyo, Island of Paxo ... ... ... ... ... „ „ 6 Vathy Harbour, Ithaca ... ... ... ... „ ,, 6 Argostoli, Cephalonia ... ... ... ... ... ,, 7 "Anxious about the Post" ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 8 "All Right Now" „ „ 8 Entrance Corinth Canal (West Entrance) ... ... ,, 10 Ruins near Athens ... ... ... ... ... ,, M u Mrs. Maxse, Owner, and Crew of Roseneath, Poros. 1895 „ „ 12 Poros ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, 12 Yacht Roseneath and South View from Poros, 1895 „ „ 13 Herbert ... „ -.

Port St. Nikolo, Gulf of Athens „ j. Delos Anchorage ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,- Arsida Island, Gulf of Athens 1y s)'ra „ „ 18 Quay, Smyrna n 20 Lighthouse off Foggia ... ... „ 22 Island and Lighthouse off Foggia ... ... ... „ 24. Gallipoli (Turkey) from Anchorage, South Harbour „ 26 On Deck for an airing after Photographic Work ... „ „ 30 After a Gale: "It might have been worse" ... ... ,, , o2 Herbert joins the Austrian Lloyd Steamer „ „ Quiet Anchorage after a Gale... ... ... ...

To face page 37 Samson's Stone, Island of Samos ... ... ... ,, ,, 40 Cape Baba, Asia Minor ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 40 Scala Nova ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, „ 40 Foreign Cruisers in Turkish Waters ... ... ... ,, „ 43 Lighthouse, Tigani, Island of Samos ... ... „ ,, 46 Tigani, Island of Samos ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 46 Sighajik Harbour ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 46 Sighajik Entrance ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 46 Shooting Quarters, Chelukoi, Asia Minor ... ... ,, ,, 47 View from Anchorage, Gymno ... ... ... „ „ 48 Lighthouse, Port St. Nikolo, Island of Zea... ... ,, „ 52 Albanian Boys ... ... ... ... ... ... „ ,, 60 Shepherds ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 64 Corfu Harbour Entrance ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 66 Palinuro... ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 72 Gaeta Entrance Fort ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 76 Reggio South ,, „ 78 Port St. Nikolo, Gulf of Athens „ „ 80 Entrance to Temple of Jupiter, Athens ... ... ,, ,, 88 Vostitza Harbour, Gulf of Corinth ... ... ... ,, ,, 92 Russian Cruiser ... „ „ 92 . 7iew of Acropolis, from Entrance to Stadion ... ,, ,, 95 Reggio Anchorage ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 100 Islands between Ægina and Poros ... ... ... ,, ,, 106 Cape Colonna, Gulf of Athens ... ... ... ,, ,, 108 General View of Poros... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 114 Greek Monastery on Poros Island ... ... ... ,, ,, 116 Our Chief Beater „ „ ITALIAN PROVISION BOAT Chapter I. HAT is the twelfth to the Scotch Sportsman and the first to the English Sportsman ?

The months are too well known to require naming. Surely they are the dates most dear to their souls. The Yachtsman and the tourists have theirs also. They measure the whole 3-ear round, either from or to the dates they each fix upon to spread their wings and take their annual flight. To the man who not only owns, but commands and navigates his own vessel, this date means, or should mean, the satisfactory conclusion of a task which is always a labour of love ; for fitting out, if it has its trials, has also its reward. Finding a crew, fitting out, provisioning, coaling and watering; these, in due course, are completed; now chose a suitable companion or companions; and your trip has begun. You meet your friends at some rendezvous, and the mutual greetings which pass between you are all very cordial ones.

If they should not be, the result would soon show itself, for you must be together for months to come. On the present occasion I have only one companion to commence the trip with, though others are coming later. i; I will not trouble my reader with the details of our outward journey from London to Leghorn, but will ask him mentally to accompany us on board the Roseneath, while together we make what I hope will prove a pleasant trip amongst the Greek Islands, and onwards to Constantinople. Charlie is our companion. He is wholly ignorant of the sea and and the ways of seamen ; he will soon learn. He is to do the photographic work for us, unless too ill. Will he be ? We start from Leghorn October 6th ; our ship's company consist of an English first mate, a Russian engineer, an English steward and valet, one Greek fireman, and the rest Italians ; a mixed lot, no doubt, but certainly good men and true.

Sober are they always, and willing ; but smart ? Well, they will improve, for they are hard working, and more than anxious to please. I need not describe the yacht and her equipment further, for I have given a photo of her, and further information may be obtained from Lloyds' Yacht Register, should the reader feel interested. It was lovely weather when we left Leghorn, so with a fair breeze, and under easy steam, we sailed pleasantly during the day and anchored at Port Longone, in the Island of Elba, in the evenino-. A strong southerly gale sprang up almost at the moment we had anchored, and the harbour was soon well filled with small craft anxious to get shelter. During the night it blew hard, and at sunrise harder still. About 10 a.m. the largest water-spout I have ever seen crossed the mouth of LEGHORN HARBOUR, INNER BASIN. the harbour.

It seemed quite a quarter of a mile broad ; fortunately it did no damage. Charlie and myself went early that day to visit Napoleon's house, and we photographed the grounds and the approach. It was a six mile drive from our anchorage. If you will look at the map, you will see that Port Ferrajo looks more sheltered from the prevailing winds than Port Longone, while it is certainly nearer Napoleon's house. Still, for some reasons, I preferred the latter port, for I was in want of neither coal or water, both of which can, no doubt, be more easil)' got at Port Ferrajo, but I fancy our port is, on the whole, better sheltered. I do not think that any man, unless interested in the iron trade, would care for any lengthened stay in Elba. When you have seen Napoleon's bed and his stud)-, and have looked out of the window he looked out of, and have tried to realize what he must have felt in exile, and how he arranged his clever escape, you will look for " other fields and pastures new," for there is nothing else here of interest.

Grapes in plenty are grown on the Island, producing wines of good quality, excellent in taste and very rich in iron, but, when you are asked to try them, you will discover that the}- are sadly lacking in age. There is no one, perhaps, in Elba Island who would buy old wine, but there is cellar room enough in Ferrajo, under the houses, to store any quantity, and I feel sure it would pay for keeping, bottling, and exporting. B Chapter II. E returned in the evening, after visiting the Emperor's house, and meant to sail next day. The weather, however, prevented us, and we passed a useless time watching for a lull, which was not forthcoming till 24 hours later. This we took advantage of, and, with fairly good weather, anchored off St. Stefano in the evening. Here you may shelter in safety, and on either side of the promontory on which the lighthouse stands, according to the wind, and, if your vessel draws less than 1 5 ft., and you anchor well inshore, you may defy any gale that blows.

The Admiralty chart last issued will give you all the soundings, and, at a glance, you will see hownear to the land you may anchor. I hope it may not be out of place here, to remind my reader that the instructions given in the " Mediterranean Pilot " are drawn up, and most properly so, for sailing vessels. If you have steam, a good Captain, and a good leadsman, you can approach very close to the shore with absolute safety. From St. Stefano, we sailed to Civita Vecchia, of which port I have given a description in my former GAETA CATHEHRAL GAETA ANCHORAGE H.M.S. "CRUISER" LEAVING CORFU. work,* and from thence to Gaeta, where we found a fleet of Italian men-of-war at anchor. Here the last Queen of Naples (a grand and noble woman), did heroic deeds in defence of a hopeless cause. It w-as not her fault that the Neapolitan Government of that day was then what Turkish Government is to-day.

Need I describe it. For courtesy and kindness, Italian naval officers are hard to beat. We found it so here. For smart ness and utility the palm will, I fancy, be conceded to the English. I could give details, but I write to please, and would not, for the world, write a line disparaging our charming allies and friends. This, however, I can say, that as an auxiliary force they would prove of valuable assistance to any first-class naval power. A glance at the splendid fleet anchored here made me feel glad that England and Italy had so much in common. We sailed at daylight next morning, and anchored off Santa Lucia harbour in the evening. I will not weary my reader with an account of our easy and pleasant voyage down the coast, anchoring first at Santa Venere, and the next day at Messina, as in the book before alluded to I have given short des criptions and photographs of these places, as well as Corfu.

At this last port we arrived on October 24th. We found H. M.S. Cruiser (training ship) at anchor here. She went to sea daily, and it was a grand sight each morning to watch her getting under weigh. We remained for about a fortnight, and * " With the Yacht, Camera, and Cycle in the Mediterranean." Sampson, Marston & Low. tried our luck on the Albanian coast. We shot a few pigeons, but the woodcock had not yet arrived, and with the pig we were unlucky. We found only two or three, and these we could not get at. On November 3rd, we were joined by an old parliamentary friend of mine, who, for brevity, I will call Arnold. After he had joined, we tried our luck again, but Minerva had the sulks, and would neither throw her shield over us in the shape of a cloud, which, as the sun was shining hotly, would have been most welcome, nor recognise us as true sports men, so we were not favoured with success.

Dis appointing, of course. Our programme, however, was extensive, and we sailed for Guyo harbour, in the Island of Paxo* the next day (November 12th,) and for Ithaca* on the 13th. Could anything look more lovely than the harbour of Vathy as we entered ? We ought all of us to have enjoyed it. I was the only one of the three on board, however, who could enjoy it at all. — Why ? At dinner the previous evening we had all eaten fish ; fresh, apparently, but indigestable. Arnold was really ill and prostrate ; Charlie was slowly getting over it ; while I, having eaten less than the other two, had recovered. Memo. — Mind you don't eat fish in the Mediterranean, unless you are absolutely sure that they have been caught well out at sea, not inside your port. * See " With Yacht, Camera, and Cycle in the Mediterranean."

Samson Marston & Low. GUYO, ISLAND OF PAXO. VATHY HARBOUR, ITHACA. ARGOSTOLI, CEPHALONIA. Chapter III. EXT morning expeditions were formed to see the Castle of Ulysses, and other points of classical interest. We saw the fountain of Arethusa, by the pleasant process of steaming round to it, and walking up hill about one-third of a mile. Having collected some flowers growing near, we returned on board, and steamed off to Cephalonia. I selected the port of Argolstoli as the best to anchor in. Here we remained for a few days. The resident Vice-Consul was most kind, and gave us some wines and brandy to taste, which were home made so to speak, by a relation of his who resides here. This enterprising English gentleman certainly deserves success. I can very distinctly recommend the older wines, and the brandy, although now only five or six years old, shows promise of becoming one of choicest quality.

It is absolutely pure and unadulterated. There are lovely drives round about the harbour and the neighbourhood. The hire price of a pair of horses and carriage for the afternoon will not reach 6s. The water here can be recommended as pure and good ; coal can also be got, but, of course, before buying you must make your own bargain. I know nothing more trying than the realization of the fact that there is no fixed price for ordinary goods in these parts. The time lost in negociating a purchase is always trying, but I suppose in some mysterious way, which I do not understand, it is good for one. It is, anyhow, as complete a trial of patience as could be experienced. A gale kept us in Cephalonia a day longer than we wished, but on the morning of Monday, November 1 8th, it moderated, and we sailed for Patras the next morning, arriving at our destination that evening.

My good old friend, Mr. Wood (the Consul), was delighted to see us, and showed my guests all the chief places of interest in the neighbourhood. I have described some of them in a former work, but I should like to add, that a German firm, now estab lished for some years, have been slowly developing an extensive wine business, which promises well. Our Consul can give information on this subject to admirers of Greek wines and brandies. We all passed a pleasant afternoon at the Consul's house, while a game of lawn tennis, with real English balls and our own rackets, put us all in a high glow and good spirits. Exercise is the yachtsman's great want, and a tennis court is a God-send after a long stay on board ship. The best of friends must part, and, after a two day's stay, we bid adieu to our host and his family who had all shown us great kindness.

We then proceed under steam to Itiar. Neither of my guests had seen Delphos, so, on our arrival in the evening, we make arrangements to take a carriage on the next day up to the ruins. Business on board ANXIOUS ABOUT THE POST ALL RIGHT NOW prevented my accompanying them. They, however, started early, and spent a pleasant day examining the temple of Apollo, the museum, and other places of interest. A French guide very courteously showed them the newest excavations, and refused all recom pense. I note this incident as at once rare and remarkable. From the description given by Arnold and Charlie, much work must have been done since my visit last spring, and visitors now may expect a real treat when tempted to undertake the excursion. It is useless to give less than a whole day to the visit. The roads, which I described in my last work, and which I found very bad, have been repaired, and a comfortable carriage, with three good horses, can now be engaged to bring you to the site of the ruins, after a pleasant drive of 2\ hours, while \\ hours will suffice to carry you home again, and at a good pace, for your return journey is all down hill.

Chapter IV. T came on to blow next day, as it very often will in these parts, and with very short notice, so I had some doubts whether it would be possible to put out to sea. The following morning, however, it moderated a little, though still blowing fresh, and we passed through the Corinth Canal after a patient wait of r£ hours at the entrance. When the Canal is clear, the guide-books inform you that the red flag is hoisted. This should be so, but there are times when the officials forget their duties ; so read your instructions, please, with a margin. Having, however, once passed through this interesting cut ting, nothing but kindness and courtesy meet us. We wanted a few tons of water, so the Canal Company very generously supplied us, and with their own boat, immediately. I can only repeat what I have mentioned in my former book, as regards the badness of the water in the Piræus ; so my reader will forgive me, if again I remind him of the necessity of coming in to that anchorage with a supply of good water on board.

At Patras, if he is coming from the West, and at Poros, if he is coming from the East, he will find really excellent water which is inexpensively supplied. Having our selves filled up the tanks at the mouth of the Corinth ENTRANCE CORINTH CANAL, W. ENTRANCE. RUINS NEAR ATHENS. Canal, we sailed early next morning for the Piræus, arriving there in the middle of the day. Good fortune awaits us; my old friend, Mr. Stuart (late British Vice-Consul) was still here, and, placing our selves in his hands, as regards coal, provisions, engineer's and ship's stores, we were as well and as reasonably provided for as could be desired. To meet a really honest and trustworthy man in these parts, who will further take the trouble to see him self that you are well served, is a piece of good fortune we thoroughly appreciated.

Three Austrian men-of-war, one Greek ironclad, and a Russian cruiser, are at anchor inside the harbour, also an American vessel just outside ; they all remind us of that ever present Eastern question which has just now come so prominently to the front. At all dinner tables and parties where Ministers and Diplo matists meet, every one is talking of the Conference to be held at Constantinople. Will it succeed for a few more years in patching up the status quo, or is the climax near ? Who knows, or can know, when the nations which send representatives cannot tell themselves what fresh outbreaks or troubles may arise. These would complicate the already difficult position four-fold. At Athens we are now more than ever interested in the British* School of Archæology, which, since last year, has been enabled to make a fresh start under the able superintendence of Mr. Cecil Smith, of British Museum fame.

Since last year, a sum of * See page 31 of "With Yacht, Camera, and Cycle in the Mediterranean," Sampson Marston & Low. i"5°° a vear has been granted by the Government for five years, towards the expenses of the school. Should it prove a success, there is little doubt but that a further extension will be applied for, and possibly granted. I hope my readers will not think me prolix in calling attention to our school, for every yachtsman, tourist, and student will find this Institu tion of real use to him. My friend, Mr. C. Smith, is alwavs pleased to give valuable information in regard to the excavations now being made, and any student may take my word for it that a short period passed in the School Library will amply repay him. On Saturday, November 30th, Arnold leaves us to go on by steamer to Constantinople, and thence home.