Travels, researches and missionary labours, during an eighteen years' residence in Eastern Africa ... With an appendix respecting the snow-capped mountains of Eastern Africa, ... and a concise account of geographical researches in Eastern Africa up to the discovery of the Uyenyesi by Livingstone...

Front matter

TRAVELS, RESEARCHES, AND MISSIONARY LABOURS IN EASTERN AFRICA. TRAVELS, RESEARCHES, AND MISSIONARY LABOURS, DURING AN EIGHTEEN YEARS' RESIDENCE IN EASTERN AFRICA. TOGETHER WITH JOURNEYS TO JAGGA, USAMBARA, UKAMBANI, SHOA, ABESSINIA, AND KHARTUM ; AND A COASTING VOYAGE FROM MOMBAZ TO CAPE DELGADO. BY THE REY. DR. J. LEWIS KRAPF, SECRETARY- OF Tnii CRISHONA INSTITUTE AT BASEL, AND LATE MISSIONARY IN THE SERVICE OF THE CHUBCn MISSIONARY SOCIETY IN EASTERN AND EQUATORIAL AFRICA, ETC. ETC flKitjj an RESPECTING THE SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS OP EASTERN AFRICA; THE SOURCES OF THE NILE ; THE LANGUAGES AND LITERATURE OF ABESSINIA AND EASTERN AFRICA, ETC. ETC. AND A CONCISE ACCOUNT OP GEOGRAPHICAL RESEARCHES IN EASTERN AFRICA UP TO THE DISCOVERT OF THE UYENYESI BY DR. LIVINGSTONE IN SEPTEMBER LAST, BY E. G. RAVENSTEIN, F.R.G.S. WITH 1'OBT.KAIT, MAlb, ANU H.LUSTBATIOK8 OP SCl-NBliY AM) CObTUMli.

LONDON : TRUBNER AND CO., PATERNOSTER ROW. 1860. LONDON : WILLIAM STEVENS, PRINTER, 37, BELL YARD, i I mi- 1.1 BAR. TO FIELD MARSHAL, HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE CONSORT, FRANCIS ALBERT AUGUSTUS CHARLES EMANUEL, DUKE OF SAXE, PRINCE OF SAXE COBURO AND GOTHA, KNIGHT OF THE MOST NOBLE ORDER OF THE GARTER, GRAND MASTER OF THE MOST HONOURABLE ORDER OF THE BATH, CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE, etc., etc.. patron anil Promoter OF ALL LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC PROGRESS, THIS NARRATIVE OF MISSIONARY TRAVEL AND RESIDENCE, AND GEOGRAPHICAL DISCOVERY IN THE UNKNOWN REGIONS OF Eastern §Jria, IS INSCRIBED, BY SPECIAL PERMISSION, BY HIS OBLIGED AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, J. L. KRAPF, sPIIE name of the Rev. Dr. Krapf has long been before the public in honourable connection with the attempts to introduce civilization and Christianity into the benighted continent of Africa, no less than as a pioneer of important geographical discoveries, and a most successful labourer in the field of Hametic philology.

His earlier missionary labours were printed in 1843, and related chiefly to Abessinia and Shoa. The present volume, although also touching upon both, is chiefly confined to the terra incognita of our maps, the Eastern coast and the equatorial sections of Africa, the land of his boyish aspirations, as we glean from the interesting autobiographical memoir, which forms its first chapter. The Appendix gives details of languages, hitherto but oral, which he and his colleagues at Rabbai Mpia have reduced to form and writing, and thus brought within the scope of future missionary efforts for the conversion of the heathen. Whilst Dr. Livingstone was proceeding from the south towards the coast of Mozambique, Dr. Krapf and Mr. Rebmann were advancing from the north to the same point. The discoveries of Dr. Living stone no less than those of Dr. Krapf may almost be said to have formed a junction at Cape Delgado.

Introduction

. PAGE I. A Concise Account of Geographical Discovery in Eastern Africa, etc. ByE. G. Ravenstein, F.R.G.S. xxv 2. Reasons for Publication — Design and Plan . " . xiv

Part I. Researches And Missionary Labours

EXTRACTS FROM JOURNALS. CHAP. I. autobiographical. A Providential guidance in the life of a man 1 CHAP. II. to adowa and ankober. Commencement of the journey — Storm off Candia — Alexandria and Cairo — The Red Sea and its navigation — The Canal of the Isthmus of Suez — Jidda — Arab navigation — Massowa — The Shohos — Initiation into the dangers of African travel — Rescue — Entry into Abessinia — Arrival at Adowa, the capital of Tigre and seat of the Abessinian mission — Interview with the Prince of Tigre — Native hostility to the mission — Arrival of Roman Catholic priests and its consequences — The author and his companions have to quit Tigre — Return of the missionaries to Cairo — The author resolves to penetrate to Shoa — Return to Cairo — A missionary sheikh and his slaves — Tajurra — The " Afer" and Ophir — Re-entry into Abessinia — The Desert of Adal — Narrow escape from a hyæna — Arrival at Ankober, the capital of Shoa . . .13 CONTENTS.

XII CHAP. III. RESIDENCE IN SHOA. Reception by the King of Shoa— His promises and character— The missionaries open school — Departure of Isenberg — The Gallas The sources of the Hawash, and M. Rochet's veracity — The author's participation in the king's expeditions against the Gallas, and its fruits — The rebellious Gallas and their country — Journey to Debra Libanos and geographical notes— Arrival of Major Harris and the English mission — The author's relations with the king and the envoy — Success and failure of the mission — Major Harris's "Highlands of Æthiopia" — The advantages of a connection between England and Shoa — The king, and his father's dream — What might have been and may yet be .23 CHAP. IV. SHOA AND THE SHOANS. Shoa proper and Efat — Limits and contents of the two divisions — Population and some physical characteristics — Form of government — Religion and priesthood — Literature and sacred books — The monophysitism of Shoa — Doctrine of the three births, and civil war arising out of it — Conquest of Shoa by King Theodorus — Immorality of Shoa — Concubinage, marriage, and marriage laws — Slavery — Superstition — The "detective" system of Shoa ....... 34 CHAP. V. THE UNEXPLORED COUNTRIES TO THE SOUTH OF SHOA.

Christian remnants — Gurague and the slave trade — Kambat "Wolamo— Kucha. — The Golda negroes — Susa — Junction of the Gojob and Omo — Reported snow-mountain —Traces of Christianity in Susa — Curious transfer of episcopal breath for consecration — Dilbo on the Dokos, a nation of pigmies — Account of the Dokos— Are they the pigmies of Herodotus ? — An alleged Doko seen by the author — Concurrent testimony to the existence of a nation of pigmies — Kaffa and its Queen, Balli — Abundance of cotton and cotton clothing — Salt and its value — Hero- CONTENTS. XIII dotus and the early Troglodytes— The Gojob and Dilbo's account of it — Identity of the Gojob and the Jub — River system of those countries — Enarea, its king, religion, &c. ; value as a coffee-producing country — Its commercial importance if the Gojob should be found navigable — The civet-cat, &c. — Senjero — Female slavery and its origin — Human sacrifices — Evidences of an early civilization in the regions watered by the Gojob . . . . . . .44 CHAP. VI.

ORMANIA AND THE GALLAS. Position, number and migration of the Gallas — Their probable mission in the providential scheme — Their appearance, dress, &c. — The true Galla type to be found near the Equator — Country, climate, and occupation — Field for European emigration — Their priests, prayers, and exorcists — Ideas of a future life — Theories as to their notions of Christianity — Characteristics of their religion — No idols in Eastern Africa — Their notions of a divinity and subordinate deities — Days of rest — The "Wollo-Gallas — The " "Wodaja " — Mohammedanism of the "Wollo-Gallas — Power of Mohammedanism in Eastern Africa — Coming conflict between Christianity and Mohammedanism . . . .72 CHAP. VII. FROM ANKOBER TO MASSOWA. Success of the author's missionary efforts in Shoa — Reasons for repairing to the coast — The king's farewell and offer of an official post — Departure from Angolala — Interesting interview with the king's mother — Feelings on entering the "Wollo country — Adara Bille and his apparent friendliness — A young Imam — English drill, and lucifer matches — Alarm on the road — Retreat to Adara BiBc — His treachery — Imprisonment and robbery of the author — Subsequent adventures and liberation — Toilsome pilgrimage to the Shoho frontier — Singular offer of vengeance — Arrival at Massowa — Arrival at Harkiko — Kindness of the French consul — To Aden — Marriage in Egypt — Return to Aden — The author's and his fellow-labourers' Abessinian projects . .

CONTENTS. XIV CHAP. VIII. FROM ADEN TO ZANZIBAR. Prohibition of the Abessinian mission — French intrigue : M. Rochet and his book — Final attempt and its failure — The Abessinian mission abandoned — The author resolves to proceed to the south-eastern coast of Africa, and found a mission among the Gallas — Departure from Aden and forced return — Second voyage — The Somali coast — Mukdisha — Breach of Slave Trade treaty with England — Barava — The Jub — Christmas day spent on the Galla coast — Stay in Takaungu — Native complaints of England's refusal of the Protectorate of Mombaz — The Southern Gallas — The Dana — The disappointment of the first voyage providential — Mombaz and its recent history — The "Wanika — Tanga — The Pangani and its mouth — The "Waseguas and the Slave Trade — Arrival at Zanzibar — The importance of a Galla mission — Presentation to the Sultan — Extent of his rule — Brief description of Zanzibar . . .107 CHAP. IX.

MOMBAZ — EXCURSIONS ON THE MAIN-LAND. •/Lamu — Mombaz — Study of the native languages — Sea trip — Hindu and Mohammedan feUow passengers — Astronomy of the Koran — Translation of the Bible into Suahili — Death of the author's wife and daughter — Visions of missionary enterprise — Excursion to Old Rabbai — Makarunge — The houses of the "Wanika — Kamba and its chief — The Mohammedans and their proselytism The animal and vegetable worlds : elephants and ivory — "Wanika Atheism — Abdallah and his friendship — A "Wakamba village Relations of the "Wanika and "Wakamba — Characteristics of the "Wakamba — Preaching in a "Wanika village ; failure and its causes — Rabbai Mpia, its situation and suitability for a missionary station — Missionary interview with the elders of the village — First sight of the snow-mountain Kadiaro — The ensuinotwelvemonth, voyages, journeys, and illnesses — Arrival of Rebmann — Visit to Rabbai Mpia and selection of it for a missionary station — The chiefs — Our removal to Rabbai Mpia — Fever and house-building difficulties — Public worship and discouragements — The Wanika . . . . .126 CONTENTS.

XV CHAP. X. RABBAI MPIA — EXTRACTS FROM JOURNALS. Retrospect of the past year, and hopes for the future — The women's Muansa — "Wanika self-conceit — The Muansa ; nature of the imposture and its political uses — Trip to Zanzibar and interview with the Sultan — Liverpool speculation on the East coast — Antimony mines and their tipsy owners — "Wanika and Zulus — Gardening begun — The god of the "Wanika — Remonstrant chiefs and the author's successful protest against their superstition — Rain-making and rain-makers — A "Wanika Dream-woman — Stories of cannibals and pigmies in the interior — Theory of their origin, and comparison with Abessinian fables — View of Kilibassi and Kadiaro — A Kinika Primer — Trial by ordeal among the "Wanika — Curious details — The begging habits of the Wanika and savages in general — The author's advice to missionaries — The Koma : "Wanika belief in a continuance of being after death — Attack on a Mnika by a Mkamba: condolence-custom of the "Wanika — Retrospect of a year at Rabbai Mpia — Mercies and achievements — Projected visit to Kadiaro — Suahili notion of the end of the world and its probable origin — An intelligent Mohammedan : his request for wine refused — Rebmann's journey to and return from Kadiaro — Public worship and Kinika hymn — Results of civilization "pure and simple" — Retrospect of another year : difficulties and hopes. 161 CHAP. XII.

EXTRACTS FROM JOURNALS CONTINUED. Completion of Suahili and Kinika Dictionary — A Wanika-exorcism — Undue denunciation — Rebmann's journey to Jagga; the author lest alone — Mringe the cripple awakened to the Gospel — Tremendous storm, and "Wanika infanticide — Appearance of two French naval officers — Rebmann's safe return from Jagga — Main results of his journey — Comparison of the East- African and "West- African missions — The sea-serpent — Traditional origin of the Galla, "Wakamba, and "Wakuafi — Mringe's new hut and persecutions — "Wanika name-giving — A neighbour of Mringe's awakened — Mringe's reception of the Gospel — Honour of the missionary office — "Wanika belief in metempsychosis — A Portuguese image CONTENTS. XVI converted into a pagan idol- The "free and independent" "Wa nika—Boso-festival—Arrival of Erhardt and Wagner— Illness and recovery of Erhardt; Wagner's death— His funeral a striking lesson to the Wanika— Journey to Ukambani, and return to Rabbai Mpia . • • ■ • -187 CHAP. XIII.

CLOSE OF RESIDENCE IN EASTERN AFRICA : — RETURN HOME. First return to Europe— The Church Missionary Society reinforces the East-African Mission— Return to Rabbai Mpia— Death and sickness among the missionary band— Mringe and his successor — Colonizing aspects of the Mission — The author's journeys into the interior — Second return to Europe — Bishop Gobat's Abessinian scheme — The author's latest visit to Abessinia — The way to Shoa closed : Return to Egypt — FareweU to Africa — Return home — Sympathy and offers of the Church Missionary 209 Society

Part II. Travels In Eastern Africa

KADIARO — JAGGA USAMBARA — UKAMBANI. CHAP. I. REBMANN'S JOURNEY TO KADIARO. Departure by moonlight — Endunga : the wilderness — The magic staves and missionary resistance — Flora and fauna of the wilderness — The Baschi ; pig and ass — Sunday evening in the wilderness ; missionary discourse — Kadiaro — Maguasini — First greeting of a Teita family ; comparison with a Wanika reception — Fears of the Teita people — The missionary fortress — Pare people and their tobacco-pipes — Dress and ornaments in Teita — Its geography and population — Mission prospects — Return journey to Rabbai Mjiia — European shoes and native sandals — Burden-bearing — Africa and her children ...... CONTENTS. XVII CHAP. II. REBMANN'S FIRST JOURNEY TO JAGGA. To Bura — Forced residence near Jawia — Timidity of the Teita, and its causes — Beautiful scenery ; reminiscences of home — The Chief Muina — Onward again — Astonishment of the guide — The trap-pits of the Teita — First view of Kilimanjaro, the snow-mountain — The country between Teita and Jagga — Arrival in Kilema — Distinct view of Kilimanjaro; contrasts of scenery — King Masaki — The Kishogno — Mutual presentgiving — Visit from the king — His appearance — Strange use of a fork — The king's cordiality — Ascent of a mountain ; extensive prospect — The return — Notes on Jagga and Missions — Geographical conformation, and civil economy — Politics and society in Jagga — Its habitations — Substitute for salt — Native expedition to Kilimanjaro — Advantages of Jagga as a mission-station — Argument for the establishment of missionary colonies in Eastern Africa . . . . . . 230 CHAP. III.

REBMANN'S SECOND JOURNEY TO JAGGA. Change of plan— Arrival at Kilema — Detention by Masaki, and its motive — Arrival of escort from the king Mamkinga — Journey to Majame — Strange ceremony — The magicians and the production of rain — Interview with the king — His friendly reception and disinterestedness — Invitation to remain — Journey homeward — The mountains of Jagga — Kilimanjaro and its meaning — Snow, and the natives of Jagga — Snow demonstrated to the Suahili mind — Arrival at Rabbai . .248 CHAP. IV. REBMANN'S THIRD JOURNEY TO JAGGA. Journeying in the rainy season — Encounter with a rhinoceros — Masaki once more — Rain-making and rain-preventing — Extemporized hut — Obstinacy of the bearers — Necessity pulls down the hut — Agreeable disappointment — Arrival at Majame — ■ Altered demeanour of king Mamkinga — Extortion and persecul CONTENTS.

XVIII tion— Missionary-tears misinterpreted— King Mamkinga's ivory- Heathen hypocrisy— Ceremonial of leave-taking— Mercenary fare well—Speedy departure— Masaki evaded— The native axe in the jungle— Extemporized bridges and their dangers— Entrance into the Wilderness— A feast of fledglings— Nearing home- Arrival at Rabbai— Teita prayer and translation . .257 CHAP. V. THE AUTHOR'S FIRST JOURNEY TO USAMBARA. Inducements to the journey— King Kmeri— Mtongwe— Lunguma— y Plain of Shimba—Kwale— Pipes and tobacco— Bundini— Musket-* firing and evil spirits— Teaching AfVadigo boys their A, B, C— At home in the wilderness — Description of the country — Flora and Fauna— Wild beasts and their habitats— Gonj a— Kusi— Wayside sermon — Mohammedan haughtiness rebuked — King Kmeri's daughter— The Washinsi— Trustfulness of the people : democracy and despotism— Forward towards Fuga— Mountain-scenery : the one thing wanting — Fuga — Salla — Interview with king Kmeri — Attitude of the people — Kmeri's harem — Interview with the king — Beturn-journey-^Astonishment of the Suahili — Prayer and thanksgiving — Zanzibar, the Sultan and Kilimanjaro — Arrival at Eabbai . . . • • • .266 CHAP. VI.

FIRST JOURNEY TO UKAMBANI. Aim of the journey — Junction with a Wakamba caravan — War and peace — The wilderness and its perils — View from the mountain Maungu — View of Kilimanjaro — Theories and facts — No water — Arrival at the Tzawo — Merciful deliverance — Arrival at Kikumbuliu: astonishment of the Wakamba — Commencement of missionary effort — Fall of rain ; taken for a magician and rain-maker — The Adi — View in Yata — Wakamba hospitality — Giraffe and elephant's flesh — Nearing Kitui — Strike of the bearers — Further dangers — Onward again — Arrival at Kivoi's village — Interview with the chiefs — The navigation of the Dana — Identity of the Dana and Quilimansi — Reception — Missionary instruction — Farewell-interview with Kivoi — Return journey — The wilderness, a type — Arrival at Rabbai . .283 contents.

XIX CHAP. VII. SECOND JOURNEY TO UKAMBANI. Contemplated missionary-station at Yata— Advantages of the locality — Departure — The wilderness: "silence !" — Robbers ahead — No water — Forward towards the Tzawo — Onslaught of the robbers — Fortunate deliverance — A false alarm — Arrival at Yata — Friendly reception from the chiefs — No house, and its inconveniences — Threatened desertion of the Wanika, and flight of the author's only servant — House-building operations : unsatisfactory results — Annoyances from the Wakamba — Visit to Kivoi resolved on — Departure — Sickness — Too swift an escort — Arrival at Kivoi's — Uki — War with the Atua — The deserted village — Kivoi's return and promises — Peace-rejoicings — Expedition to the Dana — Under way again — Poison-wood, its commerce and manipulation — Unexpected venison — Nearing the Dana . . . 300 CHAP. VIII.

SECOND JOURNEY TO UKAMBANI CONTINUED. Robbers — Parley — Attack in earnest — Dispersion of Kivoi's party — The author's flight — Subsequent adventures, perils, and sufferings — Rencounter with a Wakamba pair — Arrival at a village — At Kitetu's — Murderous designs of Kivoi's kinsmen — The author's flight from Kitetu's hut — Wanderings in the wilderness — Arrival at Kivoi's village — Reception by his kinsfolk — Plundered and silenced — To Yata — Reception — Farewell to Yata — Return homewards— Elephants — Wild beasts as path-makers — Arrival at Rabbai Mpia — Results of the journey — The Ukambani-mission to be deferred, not given up — Conditions necessary for its success — The Wakamba — The Wakuafi and Masai tribes . 317 CHAP. IX. SECOND JOURNEY TO USAMBARA. Motives for the Journey — Comparison between Shoa and Usambara — The Pangani district — Forward towards Fuga — A daughter of king Kmeri' s — The mountain-land of Usambara — Kmeri and his dynasty — The European trade in fire-arms and its consequences — 6 XX contents.

Arrival at Fuga — The capital — Kmeri' s friendly messages — The cannibal Wadoe — Interview with Kmeri — Anti-missionary in trigues of the king's magicians — Kmeri receives his presents — The Ala-African aborigines — The king consents to the establishment of a missionary station — Interview with a son of Kmeri — Departure from Fuga— -A new route to the coast — The Pangani people and their Mohammedanism — Punishment and pardon of a young thief — Results of the journey — Exposition of missionary policy — Advantages of Usambara as a mission-field — The climate 367

Part III. Geography, Topography, And History

THE SOUTH SUAHILI COAST. CHAP. I. VOYAGE FROM MOMBAZ TO CAPE DELGADO. Importance of the Voyage — Under way — Tiwi — Wanika fishermen — Palm wine — Narrow escape from drowning — Magugu missionaries and Mohammedans — Tanga Bay — View of the Usambara mountains — A travelled Suahili — Tangata and its Divani — Buyeni — The coast southward and its inhabitants — Msasani — Mtotana — Caravan from Uniamesi — M. Maisan and his murder — Sinda — Jole — The cowrie trade — The Banian's sandbank — Kiloa Kibenje — Slave-catching in the interior — The Niassa country — Kiloa Kisiwani — Kisueri — Muania — Mkindani — The Lufuma — To Zanzibar again — Return to Europe . .411 CHAP. II. FROM JERUSALEM TO GONDAR. Bishop Gobat and the Abessinian mission — Jerusalem — Cairo Tor — Greek Christians in Arabia — Jidda — Mohammedan pilgrims — The author's servant, Wolda-Gabriel — Storm and fire Massowa— The new king Theodorus— News from Abessinia Dohono— Shumfcito — A Romish missionary — Halai — The Zaranna wilderness— Adowa— Axum— To Gondar— Jan Mcda— The king's camp— Conference with the Abuna— Interview with king Theodorus— Back to Gondar— Notes on the city .

CONTENTS. XXI CHAP. III. FROM GONDAR TO CAIRO. Departure — Lake Tsamburu — Singular Telegraph — Boch — Custom of eating raw flesh — The Alaka Selat ; controversies with priests — Gunter and the river Kuang — The Western Abessinians less indifferent to religious matters — Romish missionaries at Kaffa — Emmanuel— The Camant— The Salane — Cotton, and the cotton district — Wekhne, and its importance as an emporium — Cotton again — Matamma and its market — Abessinian penitence — Egyptian order and hospitality — Doka — Slave smuggling — Asser, and its hospitality — Sennar — A Roman Catholic priest at Fedasi — Coptic school — General drunkenness — Departure from Sennar — Former diffusion of Christianity — Wasalie — Coptic scribes — The Coptic communities and their possible future — Sufferings in the desert — Khartum — Visit to the Roman Catholic mission, and details respecting it — Fever — Invitation to explore the Sobat— Opening for Protestant missions — Shendi — Egypt's past and present — What Mehemet Ali has done — Berber and the Barabra — The desert again : anticipations of death — The pure air of the desert medicinal — Camel-drivers and camel-driving — Joyful arrival at Korusko — Assuan, the Syene of the ancients : its quarries and obelisks — Cairo — Kindness of Dr. Lieder — Return to Europe — Bishop Gobat's dispatch of missionary pupils to Abessinia ; their arrival, reception, and activity — Latest from Abessinia ...... 462 CHAP. IV.

CONCLUSION. Christianity at Rabbai — Geographical results of the mission — Rebmann on Uniamesi — Reports of the ivory traders as to a great inland-sea — Rebmann's servant, Salimini — Erhardt's map of the interior — The lakes, jnountains, and rivers of Eastern Africa — Details respecting the great inland-sea — Salimini' s country — Future missionary labours in Central Africa — Erhardt on the Wanika-Land — Resources and products of the Wanika-land— Hints for the improvement of the Wanik and their country — Taxation — Hints to Missionaries . . . CONTENTS. xxii SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. SUMMARY OF EAST-AFRICAN HISTORY. The Arabs of the coast and Eastern Africa — The Hamiaritic Kings, Solomon and the Phœnicians — Solomon, the Queen of Sheba, and the Phœnician king, Hiram — The East- African coast, the Ophir of the Bible — Proofs philological and Scriptural — Notices of Eastern Africa in ancient writers — -The Periplus of Arrian — Ptolemy — Cosmos — New era in the history of Eastern Africa : — the Mohammedan Arabs — Arab settlements on the coast — Portuguese conquest of Eastern Africa — Decline of the Portuguese power and its causes — The princes of Oman and Eastern Africa — Said- Said and the Msara of Mombaz— Long struggle for supremacy over Mombaz and the East-African coast — Mombaz claims the Protectorate of England — Refusal of Government to sanction the arrangement — Said-Said's career, character, and death — Europe and Eastern Africa . . . . .515

Appendix

. GEOGRAPHICAL AND LITERARY. The Snow-capped Mountains of Eastern Africa — The Sources of the Bar-el- Abiad, the White River, or Nile — The Present Literature of Abessinia, and Languages of Eastern Africa. fist of putts. PAGB 1. P0BTEAIT OF the Authoe (to face Title). 2. MAP OF EASTEBN AFBICA . . . . . XXV 3. THE BrVEB HAWASH . . . . .21 4. WOMEN OF SHOA . . . . . . 23 5. ANKOBEB . . . . . . .35 6. MEN OF SHOA . . . . . . 36 7. THE AUTHOE IMPEISONED BT AD ABA BILLE . 97 8. TAJUBHA . . . . . „ 107 9. THE FOBT OF MOMBAZ . . . . .119 10. ZANZIBAB . . . . . . 121 11. BABBAI MPIA . . . . . .156 12. MISSION AET HOUSE AT KISULUTINI . . . .213 13. STJAHILI AND JAGGA COSTUME .... 230 14. FLIGHT FEOM SAVAGES INTEBBTJPTED . . . . 320 15. SKETCH OF MISSIONARY map (at the End). N 'IVubiier &, C° London 1860.

INTRODUCTION.

. I. A Concise Account of Geographical Discovery in Eastern Africa ; with a few Kemarks upon trie Commerce of Africa, and the Influence which the proposed Suez Canal is likely to exercise upon its development ; and a Sketch of Eecent Political Events in Abessinia and Madagascar. By E. G. EAVENSTEIN, F.E.G.S., C0EBE8P. F.G.S. FBANKFOBT. At no time has discovery taken such rapid strides towards unfolding the geography of inner Africa as within the last few years. Living stone, Barth, Galton, Andersson, and many others, have not only traversed large tracts of country previously left blank on our maps, or at the most filled up by rivers, lakes, and mountain-chains laid down from imperfect native reports, but have embodied their results in maps, based upon astronomical observations, or a careful estimate of distances.

Eastern Africa has taken its due share in the general progress, and from the peculiar interest attaching to its geographical features, and the comparative safety with which travellers may proceed inland, we may confidently expect it soon to be one of those portions of the continent most accurately known to us. Its coastline had been sur veyed between the years 1822-6, by Capt. "W. F. Owen and his officers, a survey to which but immaterial additions were made by the French expedition under M. Guillain, (1847-8). Lieutenant Cris tophcr, in 1844, visited Giredi and some other places on the lower Haines river, but M. Maizan, a French officer, who in the same year

INTRODUCTION.

. attempted to penetrate into the interior, was slain by the natives at three days' journey from the coast.* The inland exploration of that part of Eastern Africa may be dated from the time when Dr. Krapf, of the Church Missionary Society, established himself at Eabba Mpia, near Mombaz (1844), a place which subsequently became the starting-point for several journeys into the interior, undertaken by himself and fellow labourers. Dr. Krapf visited thus Ukambani twice, in 1849 and 1851, and Fuga, the capital of Usambara, in 1848 and 1852. The Eev. J. Eebmann undertook three journeys to Jaga in 1848 and 1852, and the Eev. J. Erdhardt in 1853 proceded to Fuga. In addition to this, Dr. Krapf explored the whole of the coast from Cape Guardafui to Cape Delgado, for objects connected with the mission.

The most remarkable result obtained by these journeys is the discovery of several mountains covered with perennial snow, a discovery which can only be denied if we assume the missionaries capable of deliberately advancing false statements. f True, no astronomical observations were taken, and the routes explored have not been laid down with all desirable accuracy ; nevertheless, the accounts of the missionaries, from their long residence in the country and close intercourse with the natives, with whom they were able to converse in their own language, give to their accounts quite an independent value. On our small map we have laid down the routes to Ukambani and Jagga approximately, and in doing so were under the necessity of greatly reducing the distances as given on the missionary maps. Dr. Krapf, in his original map, places Yata in Ukambani, at a distance * Henry C. Arc Angelo in 1847, and Captain Short in 1849, claim to have ascended the River Jub for a considerable distance.

M. Guillam, who in 1847 lodged in the very room at Merka previously occupied by Angelo, heard from his host that that traveller ascended the river for a few miles merely. In fact, the lower Jub is not considered navigable at all by the Arab merchants, who carry their merchandise overland to Ganana, above which the river is navigable for a considerable distance. (See Guillain, " Documents sur l'Afriqua Orientale,"II.181). t In an Itinerary to Kikuyu, by way of Ukambani, given by M. Guillain (II. 289), wo find a very high mountain in Kikuyu described as " being of a white colour, wooded at the foot, but entirely barren near its summit." This is undoubtedly Krapf s Kenia, Kegnia or Kirenia. We refer to p. 544 of this volumo for further remarks, by Dr. Krapf, on the " Snow-covered Mountains of Eastern Africa."

GEOGRAPHICAL discovery. XXVII of 270 miles from the coast. He spent fifteen days on the average in travelling to or from that place, and on his return journey in 1851 only ten days. In the latter he would consequently have travelled at the rate of twenty-seven miles a-day, or at least thirty five miles of actual travelling, the above distance being given in a direct line. Assuming Dr. Krapf to have travelled at the rate of ten miles a day (on his last journey fifteen miles), Tata would be 150 miles distant from the coast, and this we have adopted on our map. At Kitui, a village four days in a northerly direction from Tata, the snow mountain Kenia could be seen from an eminence during clear weather, and its distance would appear to be at least 1 00 miles ; the Kilimanjaro could be seen from the same locality, towards the S.W. The approximate position of these two mountains we believe to be as follows : — Kenia. 1° 45' S. lat. 36° E. long. 3° 30' „ 37° „ Kilimanjaro In addition to the valuable information afforded by the Mission aries with regard to the countries which came under their personal observation, we are indebted to them for a mass of information about the interior, collected from native sources, which the Eev.