Wau-Bun, the 'Early Day' in the North-West. With illustrations

Front matter

tlTH.or Sahow ft C fy> Yon* (the first house: built in Chicago.) WAU-BUN, THE "EARLY DAY" IN THE NORTH-WEST. BY MRS. JOHN H . KINZIE, OF CHICAGO. <$titlj Illustrations. NEAV YORK: PUBLISHED BY DERBY & JACKSON 119 NASSAU STREET. CINCINNATI : H. W. DERBY & Co. 1856. Entered according to Act os Congress, in the year One Thousand Eight Hundred and Fifty-six, hy DEEBT & JACKSON In the Clerks Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. TO THE HON. LEWIS CASS, THE "EARLY DAT" THE TRIED FRIEND OP THE PIONEER AND THE RED MAN THE Jfollofaxng rglemorials ABE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. PEEPACE. Every work partaking of the nature of an autobio graphy, is supposed to demand an apology to the pub he. To refuse such a tribute, would be to recognize the justice of the charge, so often brought against our countrymen — of a too great willingness to be made acquainted with the domestic history and private affairs of their neighbors.

It is, doubtless, to refute this calumny that we find travellers, for the most part, modestly offering some such form of explanation as this, to the reader: " That the matter laid before him was, in the first place, simply letters to friends, never designed to be submitted to other eyes, and only brought forward now at the soli citation of wiser judges than the author himself." No such plea can, in the present instance, be offered. The record of events in which the writer had herself no share, was preserved in compliance with the sug gestion of a revered relative, whose name often appears in the following pages. " My child," she would say, " write these things down, as I ted them to you. Here- VI

Preface

. after our chddren, and even strangers wdl feel inte rested in hearing the story of our early lives and sufferings." And it is a matter of no small regret and self-reproach, that much, very much, thus narrated was, through negligence, or a spirit of procrastination, suffered to pass unrecorded. With regard to the pictures of domestic life and ex perience (preserved, as wdl be seen in journals, letters, and otherwise), it is true their publication might have been deferred untd the writer had passed away from the scene of action ; and such, it was supposed, would have been their lot — that they would only have been dragged forth hereafter, to show to a succeeding generation, what " The Early Day," of our "Western homes had been. It never entered the anticipations of the most sanguine that the march of improvement and prosperity would) in less than a quarter of a century, have so obliterated the traces of " the first beginning," that a vast and in telligent multitude would be crying out for information in regard to the early settlement of this portion of our country, which so few are left to furnish.

An opinion has been expressed, that a comparison of the present times with those that are past, would en able our young people, emigrating from their luxurious homes at " the East," to bear, in a spirit of patience and contentment, the slight privations and hardships they are at this day called to meet with. If, in one instance, this should be the case, the writer may well feel happy

PREFACE.

. VII py to have incurred even the charge of egotism, in giving thus much of her own history. It may be objected that all that is strictly personal, might have been more modestly put forth under the name of a third person ; or that the events themselves and the scenes might have been described, whde those participating in them might have been kept more in the back-ground. In the first case, the narrative would have lost its air of truth and reality— in the second, the ex periment would merely have been tried of dressing up a theatre for representation, and omitting the actors. Some who read the following sketches, may be in clined to believe that a residence among our native brethren and an attachment growing out of our peculiar relation to them, have exaggerated our sympathies, and our sense of the wrongs they have received at the hands of the whites.

This is not the place to discuss that point. There is a tribunal at which man shall be judged, for that which he has meted out to his fel low-man. May our countrymen take heed that their legislation shall never unfit them to appear "with joy, and not with grief" before that tribunal ! Chicago, July, 1855. CONTENTS.

Chapter II

MichiHmackinac— American Fur Company— Indian Trade— Mission School— Point St. Ignace .......... ig CHAPTER in. Arrival at Greeti Bay— Mrs. Arnot— G-en. Root— Political Despatches— A Summerset— Shantie Town — Mr. Rolette. — Indian Morning-Song— Mr. Cadle's Mission — Party at Mrs. Doty's— Miss Grignons— Mrs. Baird's Party— Hamilton A.— Mrs. Beall 29

Chapter IV

Arrangements for Travelling— Pox River— Judge Doty— Judge Reaume— M. Boilvin —Canadian Voyageurs ; Their Songs— The Kakalia— Wish-tay-yun— Rev. Pleazer "Williams— Passage through the Rapids— Grande Chute— Christman • 43

Chapter V

Beautiful Encampment — Winnebago Lake— Miss Four-Legs— Garlic Island— Wild Rice ' - .... 60

Chapter VI

Breakfast at Betty More's— Judge Law— Fastidiousness ; What came of it • G8 CHAPTER Vn. Butte des Morts— French Cognomens— Serpentine Course of Fox River— Lake Pucka-way— Lac de Bœuf— Fort Winnebago ...... 74 CHAPTER VHL M-ajnr and Mrs. Twites— A. Daviv-.\n Indian Funeral— CoDjugal Affliction— Indian Chiefs; Talk English— The Wild Cat— The Dandy 83 X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.

Housekeeping; The First Dinner ...---- 94

CHAPTER X.

Indian Payment— Pawnee Blanc— The Washington "Woman— Raising Fuods 99

CHAPTER XI.

Louisa— Garrison Life- Pr. Newhall— Affliction— Domestic Accoinmodations-Ephraim —New Year's Day— Natire Custom— Day-kau ray's Views of Education— Capt- Harney's Mince-Pie -------- 109

CHAPTER XII.

Lizzie Twiggs— Preparations for a Journey— The Regimental Tailor - - 123

CHAPTER XIII.

Departure from Fort Winnebago— Duck Creek— Upset in a Canoe — Pillou— Encamping in Winter— Four Lakes — Indian Encampment — Blue Mound — Morrison's — A Tennessee Woman ....----. 129 CHAPTER" XIV. Rev. Mr. Kent — Losing One's Way — A Tent BTown Down — Discovery of a Fence — Hamilton's Diggings — Frontier Housekeeping — Wm. S. Hamilton — A miner — Hard Riding— Kellogg's Grove ........ 143

CHAPTER XV.

Rock River-Dixon's— John Ogie— Missing the Trail— Hours of Trouble— Famine in the Camp— Relief • - - - 156

CHAPTER XVI.

A Potawatamie Lodge— A Tempest— Piche's— Hawlcy's— The Dnpage — Mr. Dougherty —The Desplaincs — Mrs. Lawton— Wolf Point— Chicago - - - 171 CHAPTER XVTT. Fort Dearborn— Chicago in 1831— First Settlement of Chicago— John Kinzie, Pen.— Fate of George Foreyth— Trading Posts— Canadian Voyageurs— M. St. Jean- Louis la Liberte --------- 183

CHAPTER XVII

I. Massacre at Chicago • ■-----.-202 CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XIX.

Massacre continued— Mrs. nelm— Ensign Ronan— Capt.Wells — Mrs. Holt— Mrs. HeaJd —The Sau-ga-nash — Sergeant Griffith — Mrs. Burns— Black Partridge and Mrs. Lee— Nau-non-gee and Sergeant Hays --.-.- 223

CHAPTER XX.

Treatment of American Prisoners by the British— Captivity of Mr. Kinzie — Battle on Lake Erie — Cruelty of Gen. Proctor's Troops— Gen. Harrison— Rebuilding of Fort Dearborn— Red Bird— A Humorous Incident— Cession of the Territory around Chicago 24S

CHAPTER XXI.

Severe Spring Weather— Pistol-Firing — Milk Punch— A Sermon — Pre-emption to "Kinzie's Addition"— Liberal Sentiments ..... 260 CHAPTER XXH. The Captive 266 CHAPTER XXm. Capt. McKillip— Second Sight — Ball at Hickory Creek — Arrival of the "Napoleon" — Troubles of Embarkation 288

CHAPTER XXIV.

Departure for Fort Winnebago — A Frightened Indian— Encampment at Dunkley's Grove— Horses Lost— Getting Mired— An Ague Cured by a Rattlesnake — Crystal Lake-Story of the Little Rail 300

CHAPTER XXV.

Return Journey Continued — Soldiers' Encampment— Big Foot Lake — Village of Maunk-suck— A Young Gallant— Climbing Mountain-Passes— Turtle-Creek— Kosh-ko-nong— Crossing a Marsh— Twenty-Mile Prairie— Hasting'a Woods— Duck Creek— Brunei — Home ........ 315

CHAPTER XXVI.

The Agency— The Blacksmith's House— Building a Kitchen— Four -Legs, the Dandy— Indian Views of Civilization— Efforts of M. Mazzuchelli— Charlotte - 334 CHAPTER XXVn. The Cut Nose— The Fawn— Visit of White Crow— Parting with Friends— Christman— Louisa again— The Sunday School ------- 345

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Plante— Removal— Domestic Inconveniences— Indian Presents— Grandmother Day kau-r ay— Indian Customs— Indian Dances— The Medicine Dance— Indian Graves —Old Boilvin's Wake 36< CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Indian Tales— Story of the Red Fox 36'

CHAPTER XXX.

Story of Shee-shee-banze --------- 377

CHAPTER XXXI.

Visit to Green Bay— Disappointment— Return Journey— Knaggs'— Blind Indian — Mau-zhee-gaw-gaw Swamp— Bellefontaine ----- 387

CHAPTER XXXII.

Commencement of Sauk War— Winnebago Council— Crely— Follctt— Bravery— The Little Elk— An Alarm— Man-Eater and his Party— An Exciting Dance • 400

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Fleeing from the Enemy— Mata— Old Smoker— Meeting with Menomonecs— Raising the Wind— Garlic Island— Winnebago Rapids— The Wau-be-nau-kees— Thunderstorm— Vitelle — Guardapie — Fort Howard ----- 414

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Panic at Green Bay— Tidings of Cholera— Green Bay Flies— Doyle, the Murderer- Death of Lieut. Foster — A Hardened Criminal— Good News from the Seat of War — Departure for Home — Shipwreck at the Grand Chute — A Wet Encampment —An Unexpected Arrival — Reinforcement of Volunteers — La Grosse Americaine —Arrival at Home ---»----- 431

CHAPTER XXXV.

Conclusion of The War— Treaty at Rock Island— Cholera among the Troops— Wau kaun-kaw— Wild-Cat's Frolic at the Mee-kan— Surrender of the Winnebago Prisoners ----------- 443

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Delay in the Annual Payment — Scalp Dances— Groundless Alarm— Arrival of Got. Porter — Payment — Escape of the Prisoners — Neighbors Lost — Re-appearance — Robineau— Bellair --------- 430 CHAPTER XXXVH. Agathe — "Kinzie's Addition''— Tomah— Indian Acuteness— Indian Simplicity 471

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Famine— Day-kau-ray's Daughter — Noble Resolution of a Chief — Bread for the Hungry— Rev. Mr. Kent— An Escaped Prisoner— The Cut-Nose Again— Leave-taking with our Red Children— Departure from Fort Winnebago - - 481 appendix - a ivn^rv *» Kfte "(fell gas of % Sfort&-»est

Chapter I. Departure From Detroit

It was on a dark, rainy evening in the month of September, 1830, that we went on board the steamer " Henry Clay," to take passage for Green Bay. All our friends in Detroit had congratulated us upon our good fortune in being spared the voyage in one of the little schooners, which at this time afforded the ordinary means of communication with the few and distant set tlements on Lakes Huron and Michigan. Each one had some experience to relate of his own or of his friends' mischances in these precarious journeys — long detentions on the St. Clair flats — furious head winds off Thunder Bay, or interminable calms at Mackinac or the Manitous. That which most enhanced our sense of peculiar good-luck, was the true story of one of our relatives having left Detroit in the month of June, and reached Chicago in the September following, having been actually three months in performing what is sometimes accomplished by even a sailvessel in four days.

But the certainty of encountering similar misadven tures would have weighed little with me. I was now to visit, nay more, to become a resident of that land which had, for long years, been to me a region of romance. Since the time when, as a child, my highest delight had been in the letters of a dear relative, de scribing to me his home and mode of life in the " Indian country," and still later, in his felicitous narration of a tour with General Cass, in 1820, to the sources of the Mississippi — nay, even earlier, in the days when I stood at my teacher's knee, and spelled out the long word Mich-i-li-mack-i-nac, that distant land, with its vast lakes, its boundless prairies, and its mighty forests, had possessed a wonderful charm for my imagination. Now I was to see it ! — it was to be my home !

Our ride to the quay, through the dark by-ways, in a cart, the only vehicle which at that day could navi gate the muddy, unpaved streets of Detroit, was a theme for much merriment, and not less so, our descent of the narrow, perpendicular stair-way by which we reached the httle apartment called the Ladies' Cabin. We were highly delighted with the accommodations, which, by comparison, seemed the very climax of com fort and convenience ; more especially as the occupants of the cabin consisted, beside myself, of but a lady and two httle girls. DEPARTURE FROM DETROIT. 15 Nothing could exceed the pleasantness of our trip for the first twenty -four hours. There were some officers, old friends, among the passengers. We had plenty of books. The gentlemen read aloud occasion ally, admired the solitary magnificence of the scenery around us, the primeval woods, or the vast expanse of water unenlivened by a single sail, and then betook themselves to their cigar, or their game of eucre, to whde away the hours.

For a time the passage over Thunder Bay was de lightful, but alas ! it was not destined, in our favor, to belie its name. A storm came on, fast and furious — what was worse, it was of long duration. The pitch ing and rolling of the httle boat, the closeness, and even the sea-sickness, we bore as became us. They were what we had expected, and were prepared for. But a new feature of discomfort appeared, which almost upset our philosophy. The rain, which fell in torrents, soon made its way through every seam and pore of deck or moulding. Down the stair-way, through the joints and crevices, it came, saturating first the carpet, then the bedding, until, finally, we were completely driven, "by stress of weather," into the Gentlemen's Cabin. Way was made for us very gallantly, and every provision re sorted to for our comfort, and we were congratulating ourselves on having found a haven in our distress, when lo ! the seams above opened, and down upon our devoted heads poured such a flood, that even umbrellas were an insufficient protection.

There was nothing left for the ladies and children but to betake ourselves to the berths, which, in this apartment, fortunately re mained dry ; and here we continued ensconced the live long day. Our dinner was served up to us on our pillows. The gentlemen chose the dryest spots, raised their umbrellas, and sat under them, telling amusing anecdotes, and saying funny things to cheer us, until the rain ceased, and at nine o'clock in the evening we were gladdened by the intelligence that we had reached the pier at Mackinac. We were received with the most affectionate cordiality by Mr. and Mrs. Robert Stuart, at whose hospitable mansion we had been for some days expected. The repose and comfort of an asylum like this, can be best appreciated by those who have reached it after a tossing and drenching such as ours had been.

A bright, warm fire, and countenances beaming with kindest interest, dispelled all sensations of fatigue or annoyance. After a season of pleasant conversation, the servants were assembled, the chapter of God's word was sol emnly read, the hymn chanted, the prayer of praise and thanksgiving offered, and we were conducted to our place of repose. It is not my purpose here to attempt a portrait of those noble friends whom I thus met for the first time. DEPARTURE FROM DETROIT. 17 To an abler pen than mine, should be assigned the honor of writing the biography of Robert Stuart. All who have enjoyed the happiness of his acquaintance, or stfll more, a sojourn under his hospitable roof, will carry with them, to their latest hour, the impression of his noble bearing, his genial humor, his untiring benevolence, his upright, uncompromising adherence to principle, his ardent philanthropy, his noble disin terestedness.

Irving in his "Astoria," and Franchere in his " Narrative," give many striking traits of his early character, together with events of his history of a thrilling and romantic interest, but both have left the most valuable portion unsaid, his after-life, namely, as a Christian gentleman. Of his beloved partner, who still survives him, mourning on her bereaved and solitary pilgrimage, yet cheered by the recollection of her long and useful course as a " Mother in Israel," we will say no more than to offer the incense of loving hearts, and prayers for the best blessings from her Father in Heaven.

Chapter II. Michilimackinac

Michilimackinac ! that gem of the Lakes ! How bright and beautiful it looked as we walked abroad on the following morning ! The rain had passed away, but had left all things glittering in the hght of the sun as it rose up over the waters of Lake Huron, far away to the east. Before us was the lovely bay, scarcely yet tranquil after the storm, but dotted with canoes and the boats of the fishermen already getting but their nets for the trout and whitefish, those treasures of the deep. Along the beach were scattered the wigwams or lodges of the Ottawas who had come to the island to trade. The inmates came forth to gaze upon us. A shout of welcome was sent forth, as they recognized Shaw-nee-aw-kee, who, from a seven years' residence among them, was well-known to each individual. A shake of the hand, and an emphatic " Bon-jour — bon-jour," is the customary salutation between the Indian and the white man.

" Do the Indians speak French?" I inquired of my husband. " No ; this is a fashion they have learned of the French traders during many years of inter course." michilimackinac. 19 Not less hearty was the greeting of each Canadian engage, as he trotted forward to pay his respects to " Monsieur John," and to utter a long string of felici tations, in a most incomprehensible patois. I was forced to take for granted all the good wishes showered upon " Madame John," of which I could comprehend nothing but the hope that I should be happy and con tented in my " vie sauvage." The object of our early walk was to visit the Missionhouse and school which had been some few years previously established at this place, by the Presbyterian Board of Missions. It was an object of especial interest to Mr. and Mrs. Stuart, and its flourishing condition at this period, aud the prospects of extensive future usefulness it held out, might well gladden their philanthropic hearts.

They had lived many years on the island, and had witnessed its transformation, through God's blessing on Christian efforts, from a worldly, dissipated community to one of which it might almost be said, " Religion was every man's business." This mission establishment was the beloved child and the common centre of interest of the few Protestant families clustered around it. Through the zeal and good management of Mr. and Mrs. Ferry, and the fostering encouragement of the congregation, the school was in great repute, and it was pleasant to obse»rve the effect of mental and religious culture in subduing the mischievous, tricky propensities of the halfbreed, and rousing the stolid apathy of the genuine Indian. These were the palmy days of Mackinac. As the head-quarters of the American Fur Company, and the entrepot of the whole North-West, all the trade in supplies and goods on the one hand, and in furs and products of the Indian country on the other, was in the hands of the parent establishment or its numerous outposts scattered along Lakes Superior and Michigan, the Mississippi, or through still more distant regions.

Probably few are ignorant of the fact, that all the Indian tribes, with the exception of the Miamis and the Wyandots, had, since the transfer of the old French possessions to the British Crown, maintained a firm alliance with the latter. The independence achieved by the United States did not alter the policy of the natives, nor did our Government succeed in winning or purchasing their friendship. Great Britain, it is true, bid high to retain them. Every year the leading men of the Chippewas, Ottawas, Pottowattamies, Me nomonees, Winnebagoes, Sauks and Foxes, and even still more remote tribes, journeyed from their distant homes to Fort Maiden in Upper Canada, to receive then annual amount of presents from their Great Father across the water. It was a master-policj^ thus to keep them in pay, and had enabled those who practised it to do fearful execution through the aid of such allies in the last war between the two countries.

MICHILIMACKINAC. 21 The presents they thus received were of considerable value, consisting of blankets, broadcloths or slrouding, calicoes, guns, kettles, traps, silver-works (comprising arm-bands, bracelets, brooches, and ear-bobs), looking glasses, combs, and various other trinkets distributed with no niggardly hand. The magazines and store-houses of the Fur Company were the resort of all the upper tribes for the sale of their commodities, and the purchase of all such articles as they had need of, including those above enumerated, and also ammunition, which, as well as money and liquor, their British friends very commendably omitted to furnish them. Besides their furs, various in kind and often of great value — beaver, otter, marten, mink, silver-gray and red fox, wdlf, bear, and wild cat, musk-rat, and smoked deer-skins— the Indians brought for trade maple-sugar in abundance, considerable quantities of both Indian corn and pelit-ble,* beans and the folks avoines,\ or wild rice, while the squaws added to their quota of mer chandize a contribution in the form of moccasins, hunting - pouches, mococks, or httle boxes of birch bark embroidered with porcupine quills and filled with maple-sugar, mats of a neat and durable fabric, and * Corn which has been parboiled, shelled from the cob, and dried in the sun. f Literally, crazy oats.

It is the French name for the Meno monees. toy-models of Indian cradles, snow shoes, canoes, &c, &c. It was no unusual thing, at this period, to see a hundred or more canoes of Indians at once approaching the island, laden with their articles of traffic ; and if to these we add the squadrons of large Mackinac boats constantly arriving from the outposts, with the furs, peltries, and buffalo-robes collected by the distant traders, some idea may be formed of the extensive operations and important position of the American Fur Company, as well as of the vast circle of human beings either immediately or remotely connected with it. It is no wonder that the philanthropic mind, survey ing these races of uncultivated heathen, should stretch forward to the time when, by an unwearied devotion of the white man's energies, and an untiring sacrifice of self and fortune, his red brethren might rise in the scale of social civilization — when Education and Christianity should go hand in hand, to make "the wilderness blossom as the rose."

Little did the noble souls at this day rejoicing in the success of their labors at Mackinac, anticipate that in less than a quarter of a century there would remain of all these numerous tribes but a few scattered bands, squalid, degraded, with scarce a vestige remaining of their former lofty character — their lands cajoled or wrested from them — the graves of their fathers turned up by the ploughshare — themselves chased farther and far- MICHILIMACKINAO. ther towards the setting sun, until they were literally grudged a resting place on the face of the earth ! Our visit to the Mission school was of short duration, for the " Henry Clay" was to leave at two o'clock, and in the meantime we were to see what we could of the village and its environs, and after that, dine with Mr. MitcheU, an oki friend of my husband.

As we walked leisurely along over the white gravelly .road, many of the residences of the old inhabitants were pointed out to me. There was the dwelling of Madame Lafram boise, an Ottawa woman, whose husband had taught her to read and write, and who had ever after contin ued to use the knowledge she had acquired for the instruction and improvement of the youth among her own people. It was her custom to receive a class of young pupds daily at her house, that she might give them lessons in the branches mentioned, and also in the principles of the Roman Catholic religion, to which she was deeply devoted. She was a woman of a vast deal of energy and enterprise — of a tall and commanding figure, and most dignified deportment. After the death of her husband, who was killed while away at his trading-post by a Winnebago named White Ox, she was accustomed to visit herself the trading-posts, superintend the clerks and engages, and satisfy herself that the business was carried on in a regular and prof itable manner.

The Agency-house, with its unusual luxuries of piazza and gardens, was situated at the foot of the hill on which the fort was built. It was a lovely spot, not withstanding the stunted and dwarfish appearance of all cultivated vegetation in this cold northern latitude. The collection of rickety, primitive-looking build ings, occupied by the officials of the Fur Company, reflected no great credit on the architectural skill of my husband, who had superintended their construction, he told me, when little more than a boy. There were, besides these, the residences of the Dousmans, the Abbotts, the Biddies, the Drews, and the Lashleys, stretching away along the base of the beautiful hill, crowned with the white walls and buildings of the fort, the ascent to which was so steep, that on the precipitous face nearest the beach staircases were built by which to mount from below.

My head ached intensely, the effect of the motion of the boat on the previous day, but I did not like to give up to it ; so after I had been shown all that could be seen of the little settlement in the short time al lowed us, we repaired to Mr. Mitchell's. We were received by Mrs. M., an extremely pretty, dehcate woman, part French and part Sioux, whose early life had been passed at Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi. She had been a great belle among the young officers at Fort Crawford ; so much so, indeed, that the suicide of the post-surgeon was attributed to an unsuccessful attachment he had conceived for her. MICHILIMACKINAC. 25 I was greatly struck with her soft and gentle manners, and the musical intonation of her voice, which I soon learned was a distinguishing peculiarity of those wo men in whom are united the French and native blood.

A lady, then upon a visit to the Mission, was of the company. She insisted on my lying down upon the sofa, and ministered most kindly to my suffering head. As she sat by my side, and expatiated upon the new sphere opening before me, she inquired: " Do you not reahze very strongly the entire de privation of religious privileges you will be obliged to suffer in your distant home ?" " The deprivation," said I, " will doubtless be great, but not entire ; for I shall have my Prayer-Book, and though destitute of a church, we need not be without a mode of worship." How often afterwards, when cheered by the consola tions of this precious book in the midst of the lonely wilderness, did I remember this conversation, and bless God that I could never, while retaining it, be without " religious privileges."

We had not yet left the dinner-table, when the bell of the little steamer sounded to summon us on board, and we bade a hurried farewell to all our kind friends, bearing with us their hearty wishes for a safe and pros perous voyage. A finer sight can scarcely be imagined than Macki nac, from the water. As we steamed away from the shore, the view came full upon us— the sloping beach with the scattered wigwams, and canoes drawn up here and there— the irregular, quaint-looking houses— the white walls of the fort, and beyond one eminence still more lofty, crowned with the remains of old Fort Holmes. The whole picture completed, showed the perfect outline that had given the island its original Indian name, Mich-i-li-mack-i-nack, the Big Turtle. Then those pure, living waters, in whose depths the fish might be seen gliding and darting to and fro, whose clearness is such that an object dropped to the bottom may be discerned at the depth of fifty or sixty feet, a dollar lying far down on its green bed, looking no larger than a half dime.

I could hardly wonder at the enthusiastic lady who exclaimed: "Oh! I could wish to be drowned in these pure, beautiful waters I" As we passed the extreme western point of the island, my husband pointed out to me, far away to the north-west, a promontory which he told me was Point St. Ignace. It possessed great historic interest, as one of the earliest white settlements on this continent. The Jesuit missionaries had established here a church and school as early as 1607, the same year in which a white settlement was made at St. Augustine, in Flori da, and one year before the founding of Jamestown, Virginia. All that remains of the enterprises of these devoted men, is the remembrance of their labors, perpetuated, MICHILIMACKINAC. 27 in most instances, only by the names of the spots which witnessed their efforts of love in behalf of their savage brethren.

The little French church at Sandwich, op posite Detroit, alone is left, a witness of the zeal and self-sacrifice of these pioneers of Christianity. Passing " Old Mackinac," on the main land, which forms the southern border of the straits, we soon came out into the broad waters of Lake Michigan. Every traveller, and every reader of our history, is familiar with the incidents connected with the taking of the old fort by the Indians, in the days of Pontiac. How, by means of a game of ball, played in an apparently friendly spirit outside the walls, and of which the officers and soldiers had come forth to be spectators, the ball was dexterously tossed over the wall, and the savages rushing in, under pretext of finding it, soon got possession and massacred the garrison. The httle Indian village of L' Arbre Croche gleamed far away south, in the light of the setting sun.