The Italian Valleys of the Pennine Alps; a Tour through all the romantic and less frequented 'Vals' of Northern Piedmont ... With illustrations, etc

Front matter

MONTE ROSA FROM THE COL DI CAMPELLO— VAL MASTALONE. 1. Vincent Pyramide. 2. Schwarzbom. 3. Ludwigahohe. 4. Parrot Spitze. 5. Signal Kuppe 6. Zumstem Spitze 7. Hocbate Spitze 8. Nord End. 9. Weiss Thor. THE ITALIAN VALLEYS OF THE PENNINE ALPS: A TOUR THROUGH ALL THE ROMANTIC AND LESS-FREQUENTED "VALS" OF NORTHERN PIEDMONT, FROM THE TARENTAISE TO THE GRIES. By EEV. S. W. KING, M.A., F.K.G.S. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM THE AUTHOR'S SKETCHES, MAPS, Ste. LONDON: JOHN MUERAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1858. The right of Translation is reserved. LONDON : PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Val du Grand St. Bernard. — Val de Bosses. — Val d'Aosta. Great St. Bernard Pass — Object of tour — Preparatory arrangements — Convent — Historical associations — Pennine Alps — Chronicles of St. Bernard — Early service — Peasants at breakfast — -St. Remy — Pass of the Col de Serena — Morgex to Courmayeur Page 1

Chapter II

Val d'Entreves. — Val de l'Allee Blanche. — Val de Bellaval. Courmayeur — View of Mont Blanc range — Glacier of La Brenva- — Present and former extent — Baths of La Saxe — Start for the Allde Blanche — Forest of St. Nicholas — Glacier of Miage — Lac de Combal — Flowers — Col de la Seigne — Chalets of Mottet — Chapiu — Descent of Val de Bellaval — Tarentaise — Bourg St. Maurice 34

Chapter III

Val du Petit St. Bernard. Hannibal's passage — Controversy — Evidence in favour of Little St. Ber. nard — Bourg St. Maurice — Costume of Tarentaise — Ascent of pass — " Bocher Blanche" — Hospice — Antiquities on plain — Geology — La Thuile — Avalanches in gorge — Mont Cramont — View from summit — St. Didier 58

Chapter IV

Val d'Entreves. Courmayeur — Arrangement of plants — Bouquetin — Mineral springs — Visitors — Game — Trout — Fruit and vegetables — Gressins — Ascents of Mont Blanc — Montagne de la Saxe — Ascent of, and view — Cheese chalets — Attractions of Courmayeur 88 JL, o2 CONTENTS. IV

Chapter V

Val d'Aosta. Descent of Val d'Aosta — Scenery— Vines— La Salle — Alluvial mounds — Last view of Mont Blanc — Ivrogne — Villeneuve — Barricaded windows —Chatel Argent— Chateau St. Pierre — Chateau d' Aimaville — Goitres and cretinism — Entrance to Aosta — Hotel quarters, heat, swarms of flies — Cathedral — Bishops of Aosta — Calvin — Anselm — Church of St. Ours — Cool of evening — Moonlight walk . . Page 1 02

Chapter VI

Val d'Aosta. Aosta — Antiquities — Triumphal arch — History and conquest of Salassi — Foundation of Roman city — Augusta Prætoria — Plan of streets and gates — Porta Prætoria — Walls — Mediæval remains — Porte de Bramafam — Amphitheatre and Roman remains — Scours de St. Joseph — Cafe's and journals — Pilgrimage to the hermitage of St. Grat — Return of procession — College — Tour du Lepreux — Lepers — Goitre and cre'tins — Xavier de Maistre — Preparations for the mountains . . 119

Chapter VII

Val Pellina. — Val d'Ollomont. — Val de Biona. Mule, muleteer, and baggage — Start for Val Pellina — Views above Aosta — Roveut and trout-stream — Valpelline — Difficulties — Copper-smelting works — Ollomont — Mines — Night at the Chalets of By — Smuggling — Alpine life — Bed in the hay — Fenetre de Chermontane — Glacier scenes — Return to Valpelline — Hospitality — Ascent of Val de Biona — Quarters at the Cure's — Chalets of Prerayen 147

Chapter VIII

Val St. Barthelemy. Start from Biona — Gorge of Oyace — Ascent to Chalets of Vessoney — Chamois hunters — Col de Vessoney — Last climb — Summit — Melting snow — Descent to St. Barthelemy — Lose the track — Overtaken by night — St. Barthelemy — Night at the cure's — Party of priests — Schools and education — Fenetre de St. Barthelemy — Suspicious characters — Torgnon — Antey — Valtournanche CONTENTS. V

Chapter IX

Val Tournanche. Valtournanche — Pass of Mont Cervin — Arrangements for ascent — Chalets of Breuil — Sunrise — Ascent of Glacier — Col St. The'odule — Meynet's cabin — Scene from summit — Mont Cervin — An ascent of the Breithorn — Animal and vegetable life — Earthquake — Return to Valtournanche — Night quarters — Descent to Chatillon — Geology — Val d'Aosta — Chatillon Page 203

Chapter X

Val d'Aosta. Chatillon to Turin — Plains of Piedmont — Turin — Vaudois church and service — Roman Catholic Church in Piedmont — Population of Turin — Tunnel through Mont Cenis — Fruit-market — Return to Chatillon — Ivrea — Geology of south side of Alps — Val d'Aosta — Scenery — Productions — Inhabitants — Costume — Pont St. Martin — Fort Bard — Castle of Verrex — Hemp-picking — Chatillon — Chateau d'Usselle — Chateau de Challant and garden — Baths of St. Vincent — Mule difficulties 223

Chapter XI

Val d'Ayas. — Val de Lys. Start from Chatillon — Festival of St. Grat — Ascent of Col de Jon — Summit — View into Val d'Ayas — Glimpse of Monte Rosa — "Les Allemands d'Ayas" — Torrent Blanche — Night-quarters " chez l'Enfant " — Chalets of Susselle — Furca di Betta — Descent into Val de Lys — Noversch — Gressoney St. Jean 245

Chapter XII

Val de Lys. Gressoney St. Jean — Excursions — Noversch — Visit to Herr Zumstein — Conformation and topography of Monte Rosa — Zumstein's ascents — Recent ascents — The Lyskam by sunset — Sunday festa and costumes — Pointe de Combetta — View of Monte Rosa ■ — A sunset scene — Descent in tbe dark , .-. CONTENTS. VI

Chapter XIII

Val de Lys. Expedition with Zumstein to Lys Glacier — Recent' advance of glacier — Vegetation on the "Nase" — Salt-licks and chamois — Gressoney la Trinite' — Baron Peccoz — Projected expedition to Val de Cogne — The baron's collection: horns of bouquetin and chamois — Failure of ascent of Grauhaupt— Start for Cogne — Descent of Val de Lys — Issime — Gorge of Guillemort — Fontainemore — Rich scenery — Gold-mines of Liliane — Val d'Aosta — St. Martin to Fort Bard Page 285

Chapter XIV

Val de Champorcher. — Val de Cogne. Difficult mule ascent — Pont Bosel — Trout-stream — Halt at Champorcher — Royal sportsmen — Chalets of Dondegna — Tradition of Notre Dame de la Neige — Fenetre de Cogne — Summit — Lammergeiers — Glacier scenes — Chalets of Chavannes — Night descent to Cogne — Dangerous route — Strange quarters — The cure' and his brother — Sunday in the mountains — Costumes — Ascent of the Grivola — Magnificent view- — - Return to Cogne — The Bouquetin 306

Chapter XV

Val de Cogne. — Val d'Aosta. — Val Challant. — Val de Lys. Start with the Professor — -Iron-mines — Descent of Val Cogne — Inscriptions — ■ Medicinal uses of ferns — Hermit of Fenis — Roman aqueduct, Pont d'Ael — View mto Val d'Aosta — Aimaville — Fare at cabaret — Giant's grave — Bridge of St. Marcel — Copper-mines and "Fontaine Bleue" — Chambave wine — Leone d'Oro, Chatillon — Verres — Difficulty with carabiniers — Entrance of Val Challant — Hemp and materials of dress — Fair of Challant — Brussone — Col de Ranzola — Return to Gressoney — Last evenings with friends 344

Chapter XVI

Val de Lys. — Val Sesia. — Val di Bours. Col d'Ollen — Discovery of soldier's body — Gabiet See — The Gemstein — Mysterious tracks — Splendid panorama — Limits of French and Italian influence — Descent on Alagna — The cure' — His ascents of Monte Rosa — Val Sesia and the Val Sesians — Vestiges of ancient glacier — Gold and copper mines — Torrente Bianco — Pile Alpe — Noble view of Monte Rosa — Rich vegetation — Riva — Church and frescoes — Descent of Val Sesia — Scopello CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XVII

Val Sesia. — Val Sermenta. — Val Ollocia. Fly-fishing in the Sesia — Future route — Deserted foundry of Scopello — Start by moonlight — Scopa— Balmuccia — " Osteria " — Rock-blasting — Peasants' costumes— Buccioletto— Singular obelisk — View of Fervento — Dahlias — Arrive at Rimasco — Excursion to Rima — Taglia Ferro — Situation and people of Rima — Church and charnel-house — Funeral procession — Carcofaro — The cure's garden — Cures and revenues of Church in Piedmont — Col d'Egua— Lost in mist — Perilous situation — Rescue — Scenery of Val Ollocia — Forests — Timber shoot — Night — Banio — Festival and illuminations — Ponte Grande Page 386

Chapter XVIII

Val Anzasca. — Val Macugnaga. Ponte Grande — Festa and procession — Bishop of Novara — Inn — Mora's plight — Start for Macugnaga — Vanzone— Cure"s apiary — Ceppo Morelli — Ferns — Limit of Val Anzasca — Barrier of ancient moraine — Morgen — Pestarena — Borca — " Albergo dei Cacciatori " — Culinary matters — Marmot — Monte Rosa — Inundations — Macugnaga glacier — Belvedere — Lost valley — Ascent of Monte Moro — Old church and linden-tree — German colonies: origin of — Dialects — Gold-mines of Pestarena — Descent to Calasca — Deluge of rain — Lower Val Anzasca — Pie di Mulera — View into Val d'Ossola 421

Chapter XIX

Val d'Ossola. — Val Strona. — Val Mastalone. Pie di Mulera — Floods — Migiandone — Mines — Simplon route — Ornavasso — Marble quarries — Monte Orfano — Omegna — Lago d'Orta — Church — Start for Campello — Scenery of Val Strona — Destruction of track — Inaggio — Timber "serra" — Forno — Landslip — Campello — Strange quarters — Col di Campello — View of Monte Rosa — Rimella — View from churchyard — Descent of Val Mastalone — Night perils — The Gula - Varallo 465

Chapter XX

Val Sesia. — Lago d'Orta. — -Lago Maggiore. — Val d'Ossola. Varallo ■ situation — Romagnano — Val Sesian artists — Gaudenzio Ferrari : his masters, works, and scholars — Church of San Gaudenzio — Ferrari's house — Santa Maria delle Grazie — San Pietro il Martire — Gula — Farewell to Delapierre and Mora — Sacro Monte: its history and chapels ■ — Scuola di Barolo — Mines of Balma — Start from Varallo — Col di Colma — Last view of Monte Rosa — Lago d'Orta — San Giulio — Orta — Sacro Monte — Monte Monterone — Baveno — Fish and fishing — Granite quarries — Islands of the Lago Maggiore — Domo d'Ossola CONTENTS.

Chapter XXI

"Val d'Ossola. — Val di Vedro. — Val Antigorio. — Val Formazza. Domo d'Ossola — Calvary — Preglia and Crevola — Ascent of Simplon — Prickly pear — Marble quarries — Aquamarine and garnets — Varzo — Gallery of Gondo — Douane — Lost baggage — Start for the Gries — Bridge and battle of Crevola — Scenery of Val Antigorio — Ponte Maglio ■ — Baths of Crodo — Baceno — Premia — San Rocco — Granite mountains — Gorge of Foppiano — Formazza — Falls of Tosa — Gries glacier — Snow-storm — Farewell to Italian valleys Page LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 1. Monte Rosa from the Col di Campello — Val Mastalone Frontispiece 2. Convent of Great St. Bernard and Mont Velan to face page 9 3. The Glacier of La Brenva — Val d'Entreves.. ,, 40 4. Tour du Lepreux page 138 5. The Breithorn and Petit Cervin, from the Col St. Theodule — Val Tournanche to face page 210 6.

Fort Bard page 235 7. Gressoney St. Jean, and the Lyskam — Val de Lys to face page 263 8. Monte Rosa from the Combetta — Val de Lys.. ,, 281 9. Pic de la Grivola — Val de Cogne ,, 331 10. The Bouquetin, or Steinbock , , 340 11. Monte Rosa from Pile Alpe — Val di Bours .. ,, 379 12. lira at Borca page 430 13. The Old Church and Linden Tree — Val Macugnaga to face page 439 14. Gothic Windows in Church at Macugnaga .. .. page 445 15. The Gula ,, 491 16. Pass and Glacier of the Gries , 551 Map of Mont Blanc and Environs to face page 34 Map of Monte Rosa and Environs ,, 78 Plan of Aosta ,, 124 Map of Italian Valleys of the Pennine Alps .. .. at tlie end. THE ITALIAN VALLEYS OF THE PENNINE ALPS.

Chapter I

Val du Grand St. Bernard. — Val de Bosses. — Val d'Aosta. Great St. Bernard Pass — Object of tour — Preparatory arrangements — Convent — Historical associations — Pennine Alps — Chronicles of St. Bernard — Early service — Peasants at breakfast — St. Remy — Pass of the Col de Serena — Morgex to Coui'mayeur. There are few incidents in Alpine travel which excite more strangely mingled sensations than the first sight of the lonely Hospice of the Great St. Bernard, in its winter robe of snow and mist, coming unexpectedly on the benighted traveller, who has toiled on foot up the long and weary ascent of the Val d'Entremont from Orsieres. Overtaken on the last, and most trying part of the pass, by the rapidly deepening shades of an early winter evening ; — barely able in dim twilight to distinguish, at a few yards, the tall poles, the only guides to the direction of the deeply-buried track ; — enveloped in bewildering cloud-mist and whistling sleet, which sweep down on the icy wind from unseen mountain tops ; — plunging knee-deep in the thick snow, or stumbling in the dark over protruding rocks and down invisible hollows ; benumbed and drowsy, the only wish is to sit down anywhere, but for one moment, regardless of consequences — when suddenly the outline of the Convent looms out at a few yards' distance, like a huge ark indistinctly seen through the drifting clouds.

Hazy lights struggle through the mist, E Chap. I. VAL DU GRAND ST. BERNARD. from one or two of the many little windows, while the drip from the icicled roof splashes sullenly on the slushy snow beneath. At the high steps of the ever-open Convent door weariness is forgotten. The long, vaulted corridor, cold and dark as a crypt, leads, by an iron gate at the head of a flight of stone steps, into the landing, lighted by a dim lamp. At a couple of tolls on the great bell hanging above, a blaze of cheerful light shines dazzlingly for a moment through an opening door, and a monk in Augustine habit bids you welcome. "Wet, weary, and numb, you are conducted to a comfortable but simple dormitory, and after a change, if fortunate enough to have it, are soon seated in the refectory, the same room from which came the inspiriting gleam of light and warmth.

With a blazing wood-fire, warm soup, good Aostan wine, and the pressing hospitality of the fathers, you forget the mist and sleet without, the dreary snow wastes, and the weary track, and can hardly realise the fact that you are 8200 feet above the sea-level, and in the highest permanent habitation in Europe. Such was our first experience of this well-known pass, on a former visit, late in the year ; nor shall we soon forget our feelings on reaching the Hospice, far on in the night, having lost our way in a heavy snow-storm, and been over taken by darkness, which involved us in considerable peril. The season of the year, the state of the pass, the weather, and a variety of circumstances, have in fact the greatest influence on the impressions made by this and similar scenes, proportionate to the difficulties or danger encountered.

The traveller, mounted on a good mule, arriving in the day light of their short summer, when the lake is unfrozen and the gorge almost clear of snow, though he cannot fail to be struck with the wildness and melancholy of the situation, can however but feebly realise the sensations of an unhappy peasant forced to cross in mid-winter, exposed to avalanches, Chap. I. THE PASS. 3 plunging up trackless steeps of snow, and perhaps only rescued, exhausted and half-frozen, by the exertions of the monks. On this our second visit, as it was the beginning of August, the pass was clear, the ascent in full daylight com paratively easy, and we enjoyed the grateful change from the stifling heat, — which was ripening the grapes in the valley of the Rhone below, — to the fresh mountain-air, the rushing torrents streaming down on all sides, and the beds of lovely Alpine plants peeping from beneath the retreating snow.

Though six years had elapsed since we had last trodden the same track, every feature of it seemed familiar. The lonely Cantine de Proz, where we halted for breakfast, was as dirty as ever. The little Morgue was just as I had sketched it, though the bodies then in it had nearly mouldered away, happily replaced by no recent ones. But it was not until we advanced up the desolate rocky path, and the penetrating clouds poured down on us with a damp chill, breaking only for a moment to disclose some lofty peak sheeted with snow and glacier, that we were fully reminded of our former ascent. As then, the mist prevented us from seeing the great square building, until we were close under its walls, and almost at the familiar steps of the Convent door. We were only too glad to hasten for shelter once more from the piercing clammy wind, which blew the scud and sleet past us like wreaths of smoke.

Unloading the mule as soon as it came up, and dismissing the muleteer who had come with it from Martigny, we found our own way, as the place seemed deserted, along the well remembered corridor, to the refectory, where the Chanoine l'Eglise was sitting alone, and greeted us with a hearty welcome. Being the resident Superior, he does not usually receive visitors, but happened that day to be the only monk remaining in the convent. This was fortunate for us, as one object which had brought us there, was to see him, and benefit by his experience of several of the less known passes, B which we were intending to take. He had given the other eight monks leave for the day, and they had gone in separate parties, with the dogs and men, some to repair and replace the poles and cairns which mark the winter track— others to look after their herds in the summer pastures below.

We were glad to ensconce ourselves by the warm fire, my thermometer outside our little dormitory window falling to 28°, or four degrees below the freezing point, while at Martigny, the day before, it had been at 82° in the shade. No other travellers arrived, the weather having become wild and stormy, thickly falling flakes of snow drifting past the double glazed windows. After an early dinner with the hospitable Chanoine, who produced a flask of their best Malvoisie from the convent cellars, we had the after noon to ourselves without interruption, and, spreading the table with maps and charts, he gave us the advantage of his experienced suggestions with regard to our future route. Our project was, after crossing the Alps, to explore and traverse, from head to foot, all the remote and less frequented valleys of Piedmont, which descend from the steep southern face of the great Pennine chain, from Mont Blanc west to Monte Rosa east.

The latter noble mountain, with its deep glens and their remarkable inhabitants, had been an especial object of interest to us, ever since we had been present at one of the great annual fairs at Varallo. The picturesque Greek like costumes peculiar to each Val — the striking beauty of the women both young and old — the accounts we heard of the district — and also its romantic scenery, so far as a hasty reconnoitring enabled us to judge, excited a strong wish to see more of them ; and when, from the road between Como and Milan, on our way to Venice, we took a farewell look of Monte Rosa, its many summits glittering in the setting sun like a wondrous mass of crystal, we determined to revisit it on the first opportunity. Another and at least equal incitement was the desire to Chap. I. PREPARATORY ARRANGEMENTS. 5 explore the wonderful glaciers and scenes of Alpine grandeur of these southern valleys.

Many of them have hitherto been but little known, except to scientific travellers, or through the pages of De Saussure and Forbes. They promised too, what it is not easy to find nowadays, the pleasure and adventure of travelling in a country not overrun with tourists, and abounding in every element of natural interest — from the snow-peaks, glaciers, and wild ranges, the last haunts of the all but extinct Bouquetin, or Ibex, to the rich valleys, with their strangely-mixed races of Savoyard, Piedmontese, Italian, and German ; as strongly contrasted as the wonderful gra dations of their vegetation. With this object in view we were on our way across the Alps. Profiting by experience, we had divested ourselves of every possible encumbrance, and reduced our baggage to the smallest compass — expecting that we must often encounter wild districts and difficult passes : at the same time, from the probability of very scanty accommodation in the chance quarters we might meet with in the remoter valleys, where inns are rare exceptions, we were obliged to provide such articles as might render us independent of all but a roof.

Accordingly, one of Whippy's portable side-saddles for E., folding into a compact waterproof case, and adaptable to a donkey or a horse, — a pair of saddle-bags, small, but of most multifarious and well-selected contents, comprising every possible requisite, — a spare bag for emergencies, — plaids, waterproofs, a portable cooking apparatus and adjuncts, fly rod, vasculum, and some instruments, with various maps, charts, and necessary guide-books, constituted the total of our personal travelling kit for the next three months. We had besides, a reserve depot of a couple of light air-tight japanned cases, so arranged with straps as to be easily adjusted on either side of a mule. After crossing the Alps these were to be sent on to some convenient point in advance, for the purpose of replenishing our scanty wardrobe if necessary, and to receive future collections of plants, minerals, and other matters.

The whole together weighed only 132 lbs. Our original intention had been to take the St. Bernard route up the Val d'Entremont as far as St. Branchier, and, leaving it there, to strike to the left up the Val de Bagnes, crossing the Alps by the glaciers of Getroz and Chermontane, and so enter Piedmont by the Val Pellina. We had accord ingly arrived at St. Branchier on the 8th of August, when, on making inquiries, we were told that, from the immense fall of snow the previous winter, the glacier of Getroz was not yet practicable for a mule. Knowing from experience how little the reports of the inhabitants of the lower parts of a valley are generally to be relied on in such cases — although our muleteer was most unwilling to proceed — I was resolved not to give it up on their representations only, and pushed on further up the valley to glean some encouragement.

But a shepherd of Chable, who had lately come down from the highest chalets, gave a similar account, and, other inquiries seeming to confirm it, we were at last obliged reluctantly to abandon the attempt, as we could not leave our baggage behind. We took up our quarters at Orsieres for the night, and reconciled ourselves to the disappointment by resolving to explore the glaciers of Chermontane from the south side, when in the Val Pellina, and in the mean time cross the Alps by the pass of the Great St. Bernard, and revisit the Convent. Had we had the benefit, when at St. Branchier, of the Chanoine's experience of the Col de Fenetre, we should most certainly have attempted it, and should probably have succeeded. So far on our way, however, we grudged losing time in retracing our steps — especially as the weather had become unfavourable for difficult mountain undertakino-s. The result of our deliberations was, that we should endeavour to reach the Alle'e Blanche at the southern foot of Mont Blanc, by a pass also called the Col de Fenetre (a common Chap. I. 7 THE " ROCHER TOLL" name for these notch-like passes in the loftier mountain ridges), leading over from the St. Bernard, at a height of some 9200 feet, into the Val Ferret, which lies under the base of the left or eastern flank of the Mont Blanc chain.

By this route we should have the opportunity of examining some features of geological interest, and also avoid the beaten track of the St. Bernard. Studer and Escher's geological chart led to some conversation on the formation of the neighbouring mountain-ranges, and we adjourned to the library, where, beside the well-filled bookshelves, a good electrical machine, and other apparatus, was a small collection chiefly illustrating the mineralogy and geology of the district. During the commotions of 1848 and 1849 we had seen it all in disorder, huddled away in an upper room ; now, however, it was neatly arranged in glass cases. Among the specimens I found a portion of the "rocher poli," described by De Saussure, and which I hoped to see on our way over the Col next day. This fragment consisted of a very hard compact quartz, of a dark bluish black, and varied with lighter veins.

The exposed surface is glossy and bright as polished marble, and very finely striated with close hair-like parallel scratches, which at first sight suggest glacier action, but its situation at the summit of the Col precludes the possibility. De Saussure describes it* as forming the very crest ofthe chain, descending to the E. at an angle of 45°, its surface in places quite flat, so that slabs of 8 or 10 feet long, and proportionately wide, might be cut out; in other parts slightly wavy, but everywhere equally polished, with a lustre more like agate or jasper than marble. The cause of this singular phenomenon he attributes to the friction of fine grit or earth in which the rock is partly buried. My hopes of examining it in situ were destined to be disappointed, but a portion of the block in the museum was kindly presented to me. * Voyages dans les Alpes, § 996, Before it became dusk we sallied out and faced the Spitz bergen-like weather, for a scramble among the rocks, and to the site of the ancient temple of Jupiter, which was buried in snow on our previous visit.

For some little distance from the Convent a sheltered terrace, scarped on the face of the rock, or piled on stones, and catching what sun there is when it shines, forms the only level bit of promenade the monks have outside their own walls. The further part of this, however, was now buried under a steeply-sloping bed of deep snow, left from last winter, and almost touching the " Convent garden ; " two little terraced patches within low walls, four or five yards square, in which grew a few tiny lettuces almost microscopic, and two or three equally diminutive represen tatives of the cabbage tribe, name unknown. De Saussure's description in 1778, — "Ils ont peine a produire a la fin d'Aout quelques laitues et quelques choux de la plus petite espece, pour le plaisir de voir croitre quelque chose," — might have been written that week.

Perhaps this forlorn attempt at a garden, with the thought that it was the height of their few weeks of summer, dark clouds of sleet sweeping over us and whitening the little lettuces, while we had left all bright and glowing in the valley below, gave us a more forcible impression than anything else, of the dreary life of self sacrifice to which these worthy men devote the best years of their existence. Crossing the steep bed of snow with a sensation of delight, as we crunched its crisp surface, at feeling ourselves once more within the regions of snow and glacier, we climbed the rocks to a high point, below which, on the edge of a bluff rock, stands a large stone cross, simple and massive, mounted on a plain square base. It is inscribed "Deo Optimo Maximo," and is visible in clear weather far down the southern descent of the pass, the appropriate emblem of that true charity, of the very essence of Christianity, which is here so nobly exemplified.

CONVENT OF GREAT ST. BERNARD AND MT. VELAN Chap. I. 9 SCENERY. To the southward bleak and jagged pyramids stretched across the horizon in successive ridges, the deepening gloom increasing their savage wildness. Conspicuous among those in the foreground was the singular insulated mass quaintly called the Tour des Fous, a fantastic pile of up reared tables of quartz, of which these ranges in great part consist. They all run in a direction from N.E. to S.W., parallel to and inclined against the great primitive chain ; and through the long trough-like gorge thus formed, the cutting " bise " pours with relentless keenness intensified by the snows and glaciers over which it sweeps. Rifts in the whirling cloud-masses between us and these distant peaks revealed occasional glimpses into a profound treeless valley, far below our feet, where we could distinguish the Convent herds grazing.

In the narrow rock-bound gorge in which we seemed hemmed in by the lofty snow dome of Mont Velan, the Pic de Dronaz, Mont Mort, and Mont Chenellette, stood the Convent itself, grey and sad-looking as the waters of the gloomy little lake on which it abuts. This lake, which is amongst the highest in the Alps, and has frequently never thawed during the summer, appeared, as we looked down on its ruffled surface, of the inkiest black hue, the more intense from the contrast with the snow-patches which fringed its desolate basin. The Stygian waters fed by the melting snow are tenantless (as no fish can live in them, though the experiment has been tried more than once), unless the ghostly white trout appears here as at the old Abbey of St. Maurice in the Valais, where, as the legend tells, it is always seen in the convent ponds on the death of each monk.