Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Arctic Ocean, in 1833, 1834, and 1835, under the command of Capt. Back

Preface

. The expedition of which the following is the Narrative, consisting of Captain Back and the Author, with an adequate number of men, was fitted out in the early part of 1833, by public subscription, aided by a grant from Government, to effect two objects : first, to render assistance to Captain (now Sir John) Ross and his party, who had sailed in 1829 to the Polar Regions, and of whose fate at that time no information had been obtained ; and afterwards, having either succeeded in the accomplishment of this humane undertaking, or having ascertained be yond question that its success was impossible, to extend our knowledge of the Northern Coast of North America. With regard to the first object of the expe dition we were anticipated by the return of

PREFACE.

. VI Captain Ross in the month of October subsequent to our departure ; and this happy intelli gence having been forwarded through the In dian country with much praiseworthy zeal, for tunately reached our winter-quarters before any final arrangements were made for visiting the coast. Our whole attention was consequently di rected towards the second object of the expedition — that of geographical discovery; and from an abstract of Captain Ross's proceedings inclosed to us, the completion of the survey of the coast-line from Point Turnagain eastward appeared to be comparatively easy ; but this proved not to be correct, nothing important to that end having been effected. Nevertheless, as the various obstacles occa sioning this failure were of a surmountable character ; I was led, while yet tented on the shores of the Polar Sea, to form the project of returning to resume the research at the point where Captain Back had terminated his la bours, after he had avowed his intention to abandon the project as far as a land expedition was concerned.

PREFACE.

. VII The complete survey of the coast appeared to me so easy of accomplishment, that fearing it might have emanated from too sanguine a mind, I courted every inquiry from the In dians,' traders, and voyageurs, as to the practi cability of my plan ; and I was rejoiced to find that their opinions were universally favourable. I did not hesitate, therefore, on reaching Eng land, to forward my proposition to Government; and after estimating the expense of carrying it into effect, which amounted to one thousand pounds only, I did hope that my plan would have been favourably received. After a lapse of several months, however, I was informed that it was not the intention of Government to promote any further discoveries in the Arctic Regions. Still unwilling to abandon an enterprise which, if only undertaken with a proper zeal and upon economical principles, will I have no doubt eventually prove successful, I published a prospectus describing my proposed journey, with a view of obtaining the necessary funds by -public subscription. As this appeal, however, was not made until within a few weeks of that period of the year when alone

PREFACE.

. VIII such a service can be undertaken with any chance of success, scarcely a third of the re quired sum was subscribed. Nevertheless, as I was anxious to lose no time, and confided in the further support of my countrymen, I set sail last March ; but contrary winds obliged me to return, and postpone my journey until the approaching season. I have taken advantage of this interval to draw up the following Narrative of the late expedition ; which I conceive is not super seded by the work of Captain Back. The present work enables me, moreover, to state the reasons which have weighed with myself, and may induce others to encourage a new expedi tion on a more moderate and economical scale, — one equipped for greater despatch and exe cution than any of the former. Attention is earnestly requested to this subject, which will be found particularly discussed in the conclu ding chapter.

The propriety of publishing this Narrative having been questioned by some persons, I have thought it right to insert the following para graph, which formed a part of my instructions

PREFACE.

. IX on joining the service : — " All specimens col lected and all journals kept by you are to be placed, in the first instance, at the disposal of the Committee, as materials from which to pre pare an official Account of the Expedition ; nor until this is completed are any private notes or Journals to be published. But, when com pleted, all your Journals and papers, and one half of all the specimens collected, (the division to take place by mutual agreement, — or, failing such agreement, by two referees, one to be chosen by each party,) are to be returned to you, and become your exclusive property." So far, however, from fulfilling this part of the contract, the Arctic Land Committee did not until some time after the publication of Captain Back's Narrative return my journal to me, and I have not yet succeeded in obtaining many of my papers and valuable specimens. London, November 2, 1836. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Departure for Liverpool. — Embark for New York. — Icebergs. — Arrival at New York. — Proceed to Albany. — Bad state of the Roads. — Arrival at Montreal. — Preparations for the Voyage. — Island of St. Helen's. — Indian Villages. — Four Artillerymen en gaged. — Fire at the Hotel. — Departure for the Interior. — Gren ville Canal.— Falls of St. Mary. . . . Page 1

Chapter II

Lake Superior. — Indian Deception. — Arrival at Fort William. — New Arrangements. — Mountain Fall. — Sautous Indians.— Lac de la Pluie. — Narrow Escape of several of the Men. — Lac du Bois. — Fort Alexander. — Arrival of Mr. Simpson. — Lake Win nipic. — Norway House. — Difficulty of procuring Men. — Party separate. — Departure. ..... 25 CONTENTS.

Chapter III

Detained by Wind in Lake Winnipic. — Shooting Excursion.— Interview with Mr. Charles and Mr. Smith.— Mr. Charles' Ac count of the Great Fish River. — Grand Rapid. — Lake Bourbon. — A new Colony. — Arrive at Cumberland House. — Cree In dians. — Captain Back arrives. — Departure from Cumberland House. — Superiority of Canoe Travelling. — Sturgeon killed with a Hatchet. — Lose our way. — Engage an Indian Guide.— Indian Wit. — Indian Customs. — Frog Portage. — Two Days without Food. — Arrive at Fort Isle a la Crosse. . Page 46

Chapter IV

Decline of the Crees. — Leave Fort Isle _ la Crosse. — Buffalo Lake. — Difficult Navigation of the Methye River. — Mr. A. R. M'Leod joins the Expedition. — Indian mode of spearing Fish. — Portage la Loche. — Imprudence of the Party. — A marauding Wolverine. — Sulphur and Bituminous Springs. — Arrive at Fort Chipewyan. — Embarrassments for want of Provision. — De parture of the Bateaux under Mr. Annance. . . 76

Chapter V

Brief Account of Fort Chipewyan. — An Iroquois Musician. — Arrival of the small Canoe. — Embark in a half-sized Canoe. — Ex treme Danger. — Embark in an Indian Canoe. — Indian Mode of Travelling. — Musk-Rat. — Salt Plains. — Arrive at Fort Resolu tion. — State of the Country as regards Civilization. — Poisson Inconnu. — Journey resumed. — Lose our Way. — Make a Port age. — Great Snowy Owl. — Reach the Wintering Ground. — CONTENTS. XIII Captain Back's Account. — A Skunk. — Route to the Great Fish River by the Athabasca Lake abandoned. — ■ Important Investiga tion as regards the Great Fish River. — Further Information obtained at Fort Resolution. — Hoar-frost River, difficult Ascent of. — Artillery, Clinton-Colden, Aylmer, and Sussex Lakes. — Discovery of the Great Fish River. — Return. . Page 104

Chapter VI

Preparations for Building. — White-fish. — Observatory finished. — Mild State of the Weather. — -Take possession of the House. — Establish a Fishery. — Account of the Rein-deer. — Starving In dians. — Desertion of the Diseased and Aged. — Completion of our Buildings wisely abandoned. ■ — ■ Four Men discharged. — La mentable State of the Indians. — ■ Fishery fails. — Visiters of the Mouse Tribe. — Deaths by Starvation. — Mr. M'Leod leaves us. — Saves a Party of Indians. — His Return. — More Deaths by Starvation. — Akaitcho's Noble Conduct. — Mr. M'Leod leaves us with his Family. — Arrival of Maufelly with Rein-deer Meat. — Commence sawing Wood for the construction of two Boats. — Exchange Interpreters. — Arrival of four Men. 142

Chapter VII

Building of the Boats. — Snow-shoe and Sledge. — Regular Sup ply of Meat. — Infidelity of Akaitcho. — Mr. M'Leod instructed to send his Family to Fort Resolution, and visit the Indiaus. — Ar rival of Letters from England. — Anxiety about Augustus. — Ex posure of Men to Starvation. — Important Information as regards the Fish River. — Moose-deer. — Sensation of Cold. — Cramps CONTENTS. the Effect of Cold. — Arrival of a Despatch announcing the Safety of Captain Ross and his Party.— Preparations for the Sea coast Voyage. — Advance of Spring. — La Charite and two other Men discharged. — Arrival of Mr. M'Leod. — Uncertain Fate of Williamson Page 179

Chapter VIII

Departure from Fort Reliance. — Artillery Lake. — Boats finished. —Advance of the Party. — Ingenious Contrivance. — Increasing Scarcity of Wood. — Indian Tradition. — Geological Remarks. — Advantages of the Moccasin. — Indian Customs. — Wilson's Pha larope. — Deviate from the Course. — State of the Weather. — Desertion of our Guides. — Signals. — Caches. — Obstructions encountered. — Caccawee. — Loon. — Continued Rain. — Snow Buntling. — Return of our Guides. — Deer Pass. — Sand-hill Bay. . . . . . . .214

Chapter IX

Reflections. — Back's Lemming. — Embarrassments about the Boat. — Musk-Ox Rapid. — Musk-Ox. — Indians return with the Pemmican. — Stock of Provisions. — Mr. M'Leod volunteers to conduct a party of Indians overland to Point Turnagain. — Party separate. — Akaitcho. — Imminent danger to the Boat Boisterous Weather. — Embarkation. — Obstructions from the Ice Peril ous situation in a Rapid. — Plunder of a Bag of Pemmican. — Heavy Showers. — Obstacles encountered. — Observations. — Hunting Excursion. — The River makes a bend to the South. — Further Detentions by the Ice Cascades Shoals of Fish. — Northerly course of the River. — Esquimaux Marks. . CONTENTS. XV

Chapter X

Advance of Spring. — Rein-deer and Geese. — Parry's Marmot. — Hawk Rapid. — Expansion of the River. — Lake Pelly. — Devia tion of the River. — Back's Grayling. — Further Obstructions. — Advantages of a Canoe. — Lake Garry. — Succession of Rapids. — Imminent Danger. — Embarrassments about the Route. — Lake M'Dougall. — Dangerous Descent of Rock Rapid. — Accuracy of the Indians with regard to the Great Fish River. — Sluggishness of the Compass. — Polar Hare. — Detention from Wind. — Sin clair's Falls. — Escape Rapid. — Hoard of Bones. — American Wolf. — Altitude of the Rocks. — M'Kay's Peak. — Lake Franklin. ..... Page NARRATIVE.

Chapter I

Departure for Liverpool. — Embark for New York. — Icebergs. — Arrival at New York. — Proceed to Albany. — Bad state of the Roads. — Arrival at Montreal. — Preparations for the Voyage. — Island of St. Helen's. — IndianVillages. — Four Artillerymen engaged. — Fire at the Hotel. — Departure for the Interior. — Grenville Canal.— Falls of St. Mary. On Saturday the 9th of February 1833, accompanied by Charles M'Kenzie, Thomas and William Mathews, I left the Regent Circus, Piccadilly, for Liverpool ; where Captain Back subsequently arrived. We received flattering attentions from Mr. Horsfall the mayor, Mr. Laird, and others ; and on Sunday the 17th embarked on board the Hibernia packet, Cap tain Maxwell, for New York. ■ VOL. I. ICEBERGS. The weather during the early part of the voyage being extremely boisterous, the winds variable and contrary, our passage was much impeded ; and, to add to our annoyance, we came in contact, in lat. 45° N. and long. 48° W., with an apparently interminable field of ice, in which we became fixed on the 12th of March : our further progress was in conse quence for some time wholly prevented, and a protracted and disagreeable voyage was antici pated by both crew and passengers.

Some time after, the dense fog, which had for some days prevailed, cleared away, and presented to our view three icebergs of considerable magnitude, but sufficiently distant to threaten us with no molestation. Two of them were right a-head to leeward ; the third, by far the largest, was bearing down majestically upon the packet's weather-bow, apparently about two miles distant: the angles which its length and altitude subtended having been taken, its dimensions were estimated at about one thousand five hun dred feet in length, and seventy in height. A sight so novel and imposing as those stupend ous moving mountains presented, brought, as ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. 3 may be readily imagined, every passenger on deck ; when curiosity suggested to some of them the idea of taking a walk upon the ice in order to enjoy a nearer view of those wonders of nature : the project was, however, abandoned on reflecting that the impetus with which they strike any object which comes in their way is so immeasurably great, that vessels have been crushed to atoms, and fields of ice of amazing extent completely broken up by the concussion ; and that in a moment, while gazing on them in fancied security, the shock might hurl them into futurity, or separate them from the vessel in such a way as to defy the power of man to render them assist ance.

By the 15th we were fortunate enough to get into open water ; and on the 27th we took up our quarters at the City Hotel, New York, where the most polite and hospitable attention was paid to us ; all classes appearing extremely anxious for the success of the undertaking. The usual forms of the Custom-House were dis pensed with, and our passage to Albany in the Ohio steam-boat was kindly proffered by the b PROCEED TO ALBANY. Hudson's River Steam-boat Association. At a dejeune a la fourchette, given by the British Con sul, Mr. Buchanan, we had the honour of being introduced to Sir Charles Vaughan, the Ho nourable Mr. Webster, Mr. Washington Irving, Mr. Audubon, and other distinguished and scientific gentlemen ; and so great an interest had the expedition excited, that on the eve of our departure, upwards of a thousand persons assembled to see us, giving three loud cheers as the vessel moved from the wharf.

At Albany we fell in with Mr. Bloodgood, who expressed the deepest interest for the suc cess of the expedition, and of whom I shall have to speak in another part of my narrative. A roomy travelling carriage was here engaged for ourselves, and a van for the conveyance of the baggage ; but, notwithstanding there were four horses in each, the bad state of the roads soon obliged us to put up with a waggon, four feet high, and without either springs or seats. The constant jolting from the vehicle either rolling into deep ruts or large holes, caused by the decay of some portion of the logs of wood which had been laid across to mend the road, BAD STATE OF THE ROADS. 5 and termed by the Americans corderoy from a similarity of appearance to the cloth of the same name, made us truly miserable. On arriving at St. John's, we began to forget our troubles in the anticipation of the road before us, which was said to be macadamized ; our joy was, however, but momentary, for a few paces only were sufficient to convince us, that we had yet to travel over by far the worst part of the ground.

The route was full of interest ; the tin-roofed churches, and the sight of burial-places near every habitation, together with maple-trees un der the operation of " tapping," were novelties not to be slightly passed over. Each returning spring and autumn, a small hole is bored through the bark of the sugar maple-tree, into which a spout of iron or wood is fixed to convey the sap into a receiver placed for the purpose. It runs more freely in the night than in the day, but always in a continuous stream. Several gallons are thus annual ly drawn from each tree. The sap is subjected to the process of boiling until it has attained a sufficient consistence : it is usually met with FROGS. FISHING. in cakes of a light brown colour, and in taste it is similar to the coarsest brown sugar. The fence of the agriculturist is worthy of remark from its singularity, being composed of the roots of trees obtained by the process of grubbing : it appears strong, and, at the same time, forms a very fanciful object.

The croaking of the frogs is so loud, that it might be mistaken for the quacking of ducks, by one unaccustomed to the country ; I was so thoroughly impressed with this idea that I more than once prepared my gun, and waded through a succession of swamps in search of them. During our evening excursions we frequently met with parties fishing on the banks of the rivers by the side of a blazing fire, kindled for the purpose of fascinating the finny race. On taking the ferry across Missisquee Bay, where several gentlemen were thus em ployed, while their horses remained tied to a gate, the lamps of our carriage frightened the animals to such a degree, that they broke their bridles and escaped into the woods, to the no small dismay of their owners. ARRIVAL AT MONTREAL. On the 9th of April, passing over a wooden bridge nearly a quarter of a mile in length, we crossed La Riviere Richelieu, where sturgeon are caught in abundance ; and having spent a night of comparative torture under a pelting rain, we reached the magnificent river St. Law rence.

A boat was here waiting to ferry us across, manned by Canadians ; and in a very short time we were safely lodged in Good enough's Hotel, Montreal. We, however, shortly removed to one kept by an Italian of the name of Rosco, where we received the kind attentions of Colonel M'Dou gall, the commandant of the garrison, Messrs. Gugy, Forsyth, Peter M'Gill, and every re spectable inhabitant of the city. Mr. Keith, the principal officer of the Hudson's Bay Com pany at La Chine, was actively employed in making every preparation for our voyage ; but he had some doubt whether it would not be necessary to put off the departure of the expedition for a few days beyond the appointed time. He conceived it would be better for Captain Back to hire his men at Norway House, a depot of the company on the Lake PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE.

Winnipic, and the resort, at the time we should pass, of a number of old " winterers :" accordingly, we engaged only a sufficient num ber of voyageurs to take us thus far. During our stay at Montreal, our days were occupied in ascertaining the rates of the chro nometers, in making sets of observations for the dip and magnetic intensity with Dollond's and Hansteen's needles, and with the various arrangements necessary to complete our outfit ; while our evenings were agreeably spent in the society of the polite and hospitable inhabitants of the place. So great a degree of sympathy prevailed in regard to the main object of the mission, that, at a public dinner to which we were invited, two hundred persons were present. The magnetic observations were taken at St. Helen's, an island of an oblong shape, situated in the very centre of the river St. Lawrence, opposite to, and distant from the city rather less than a mile.

The lower part of the island is composed of red sandstone ; the upper of a rich black mould, the situation of the go vernor's establishment: comprising a mansion, with other convenient buildings, and a suitable ISLAND OF ST. HELEN'S. 9 garden. The house was in good repair, but the garden left to decay. The island produces the hickery, maple, and butter-nut tree, and abounds in riband snakes (so named from their diversity of colour), owls, bats, squirrels, and woodpeckers ; and a craggy point of rock is frequented, during the months of July and August, by a minute species of humming-bird. In the waters round about it, shad, perch, eels, and suckers are caught in abundance. Spacious barracks are built upon it, in which a company of artillery are quartered, and other buildings adapted for ordnance stores.

A quantity of agricultural implements occupied one of them, sent out by his Majesty's government as presents for new settlers ; but, after receiving an ample supply, they so frequently passed over to the Ame rican lands that the benefit was in consequence very properly withheld from them. It is a very healthy and pleasant spot m summer, but nip pingly cold in winter. About six miles from hence is situated the village of Kanawarka, containing a thousand or more Indians of the civilized Iroquois nation ; a very dissipated people, idle with respect to agrib5 INDIAN VILLAGES. cultural pursuits, but extremely active as voyageurs and followers of the chase. The interior of their stone buildings was filthy, and offensive in the extreme. The church, where Josephus Marco, a Catholic priest, officiated daily, contained no seats ; and the furniture of their houses consisted simply of a table, bed stead, and chair, made of cherry wood.

Each in dividual of the tribe was receiving annually from his Britannic Majesty's government a cotton shirt, a blue cloth capot, a pair of leggings, a small quantity of cloth and gartering, one pound of powder, six pounds of shot, and, if necessary, a gun. The chief, Katemwa, received two hundred dollars ; as did also Josephus Marco, who, in addition, received eighty bushels of wheat, forty-four cords of wood, and six tons of hay, exacted from his tribe. A large portion of land is set apart for the use of these people, and whatever quantity an individual can clear be comes his own property, which he is entitled to sell, or bequeath, at discretion, to any of his brethren. Very little grubbing is had recourse to in clearing the land either in Canada or in Ame- OUR MEN DISSATISFIED. rica. The trees are cut off as closely as possible to the ground, and the stumps left gradually to decay : a very long time therefore must elapse before a field can be regularly ploughed.

There are two other villages of the same na tion, — Bacandee, situated on the banks of the Lake of the Mountains ; and, about a hundred miles distant from it, Kanesatarkee, comprising two tribes, the Latilentasks and the Hakoci sarknee, — equally populous, and under the same regulations as the village I have just spoken of. The men who accompanied us from England having become all at once dissatisfied, and given themselves up to intoxication, Captain Back was induced to address Lord Aylmer, the go vernor-general, representing that, unless his lordship would sanction a furlough to six men from the 6th battalion of Royal Artillery, each of whom had expressed to then; commander, Captain Anderson, an eager desire to join the service, the expedition in which he was en gaged, and which was under the patronage of his Majesty, must inevitably fail.

His excel lency lost no time in granting the request ; but FOUR ARTILLERYMEN ENGAGED. the services of four only were accepted, than whom, with the exception of David Williamson, a man who had gone through the fatigues of the Peninsular war, and who was sufficiently ad vanced in life to have grand-children, and con sequently not qualified for the service, a finer set of fellows could not have been found. The men whom we brought from England were, it must be admitted, culpable in the ex treme ; yet it may be doubted whether their conduct at all endangered the expedition, and I am quite convinced that, had they been kept at a proper distance, by travelling in the other carriage, and messing by themselves, they would have sustained the high character they bore while attached to the expedition under Sir John Franklin.

Just as we had decided to attend the soiree given by Messrs. Herrman, the Bohemian bro thers, on the evening of the 24th, a note ar rived from Mr. Keith, with the agreeable intelli gence that everything would be in readiness for our departure on the following morning. No time was therefore lost in packing up the little baggage that remained at the hotel, the greater FIRE AT THE HOTJJL. 13 part having been forwarded to La Chine ; after which we accompanied Colonel M'Dougall to the garrison mess, consisting of the 79th High landers, 24th and 15th regiments. It was the last of many entertainments we enjoyed in their hospitable society. Shortly after our return to the hotel, the ever greens, composed chiefly of branches from the fir-tree, employed to ornament the approach to the room where the performance of the Messrs. Herrman was about to take place, which was crowded with ladies, caught fire, with an amazing blaze ; and so rapid were the flames, that the upper windows and the back staircase afforded the only means of escape.

We were so unfortunate as to lose our only barometer, which had been presented by Mr. Walker, the chronometer watchmaker, to whom we were under many other obligations ; the two brought from England having been damaged on board the Ohio steam-boat. The ball, connecting the cross with the cu pola of an isolated Roman Catholic chapel, from its proximity to the burning hotel, suddenly appeared in flames. The appearance of ARRIVAL AT LA CHINE. two men, who had penetrated the dome, and with well-directed axes were cutting off the communication of the destructive element, and preserving from impending danger the " Taber nacle of life," excited the feelings of every spec tator in admiration of their bravery. The crash of the ponderous emblem of faith as it touched the earth, and the universal shout of applause " ab imo pectore," were simultaneous.

On arriving at La Chine the foUowing morning, accompanied by Colonel M'Dougall and the four artillerymen, notwithstanding the alarm and confusion that existed over-night, a large party, consisting of the officers of the garrison and many of the respectable inhabitants, had assembled to witness our departure and bid us farewell. The canoes laden with our baggage and provision being in perfect readiness, we em barked at noon, in the larger of the two, amidst the enthusiastic cheering of our friends. The men were more or less intoxicated, according to the custom of voyageurs on taking their departure for the interior; and Paul, an Iroquois, and a most experienced guide, lay DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR. 15 at the stern of the canoe in a state of perfect insensibility. We were but lightly loaded, having in all not more than fifty " pieces ;"* and, although not without a proportion of " mangeurs de lard," or new hands, there were amongst our party some of the most able men that the country afforded ; an early arrival was therefore antici pated at Norway House.

We soon entered the Uttawa river, which, for a long distance after it joins the St. Law rence, retains its peculiar brown appearance ; and proceeded till we reached the rapid of St. Anne, near which once stood a church dedi cated to the tutelar saint of voyageurs, whence the Canadians considered they took their de parture. The canoe having unfortunately been broken against a sunken rock, we were un avoidably detained a short time, and at seven encamped on a small island delightfully situated in the picturesque Lake of the Two Mountains, commanding a most extensive prospect on every side. As our route to the Great Slave Lake was * Packages of ninety pounds' weight. RAPID OP LONG SAULT. the same as that followed by the Hudson's Bay Company's servants every year, which has been so well described by Sir Alexander M'Kenzie, and very lately by Sir John Frank lin, a detailed account of our progress would be superfluous.

I shall merely allude to the principal places we passed, and the different incidents which transpired. On arriving at the dangerous rapid of the Long Sault, we determined to avoid it, if possi ble, by passing through the Grenville Canal ; for this purpose it was necessary to obtain the consent of Colonel Douvernet. An American, for a dollar, was persuaded to unharness his very old mare ; and having put on what was termed a saddle, I started for the colonel's house, distant about five miles. On leaving La Chine, I had packed up my purse, thinking it would not be required, at least for some time to come ; I was therefore not a little embarrassed at the sight of what appeared to me a toll-gate. To leave my coat or hat — for my pockets were literally empty— as a guarantee for any payment that might be demanded, immediately occurred to my mind ; expecting no better treatment THE RIVER RIDEAU. 17 than I had experienced when a boy while tra velling on a pony in Yorkshire, where, meeting with a similar obstruction, I was detained nearly three hours, until a benevolent gentle man very kindly franked me through.

My fears however were groundless. I was only required to state whither I was going ; and I soon reached the house, one of a few isolated habitations forming the village of Grenville. Having obtained the order, and retraced my steps, I found the men had been so actively em ployed in paying their respects to Bacchus, who had fascinated them to stupefaction, that it was with some difficulty we passed through the canal, and reached an encampment. On the fol lowing morning the canoes were towed to By town by the Shannon steam-boat, commanded by Lieutenant Kains, who could not be per suaded to take any remuneration for the ser vice rendered to us. Just below the village is situated the river Rideau, falling over a perpendicular rock nearly forty feet high, in two sheets of water which assume the shape of curtains, whence it takes its name.