An Excursion to California, etc

Preface

. De dications and introductions are, I believe, strict matters of etiquette among the bon ton of the Republic of Letters; and, like many of the conventionafities of high life, produce a becoming effect when all other matters are in perfect keeping. But as I can easily imagine the feefings of a visitor pompously received in the vestibule by a powdered haU-porter, and ceremoniously ushered by a bedizened footman into a drawing-room most meagrely furnished, and wanting in many of the ordinary embel lishments, I deemed it prudent to guard against such dis appointments, by permitting any of the kind public who may honour me with a caU, to lift the latch themselves, and step from the pavement into my humble parlour. I only adopt the preface lest I should be set down as a pert oddity, seeing that the middle and minor orders of the fraternity prefix it even to their pamphlets and pasqui nades.

I do not conceive it to be. indispensable, nor, in fact, see exactly in what way I can use it ; unless it be in assuring the gentle reader that all the occurrences and adventures I narrate did really happen and befal me — that the children of nature who crossed my path are some more interesting, some more savage than my powers of portraiture — that

PREFACE.

. IV the varied scenery I have endeavoured to describe exists in sterner grandeur and more captivating garniture than may be imagined from my feeble colouring — and that gold roUs in the natural gutters of California " and no mistake." At first I contemplated a series of pictorial illustrations to iUuminate these pages ; but having once seen an anxious crowd who were intently peering into a print shop, entirely diverted by the bursting of a gentleman's purse on the fiagway, it struck me that the plates might be overlooked in the desire to arrive at the mar veUous particulars relative to the existence and mode in which gold can be picked out of the dirt in that wonder ful country. It only remains for me to say, that the light style of writing I have endeavoured to employ was suggested some what on the principle on which a person, devoid of good vocal powers, attempts a comic song, in expectation that perhaps the humour may countervail the lack of higher attributes; and should any captious critic exclaim, " But nobody asked you to sing, Sir," " Nobody asked you to listen," suggests itself as the reply Ofthe AUTHOR. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

PA(1E Haul out of Dock— Gale of Wind— Anchor in the River— Description of the Company— All get on Good Terms— Weigh next Morning under Steam, Wind Unabated— Breakfast-table Scene— Sea-Sickness- Cure by Vaccination—Sea ran so high, obliged to take Pilot on— His feelings on the Subject—Barque bears down bound for Bristol, and takes him— Dreadful Squall off the Banks- Strange Meteoric Phenomenon— Description of the Passengers during the Gale— Yankee Pilot-boat and Pilot— Short Sketchy Reference to New York, being desirous to hurry on to the Prairie— Visit Boston— Superb River Steamer— Senatorial and Nigger Eloquence— Return to New York, and start for Albany by Rail— Description of that Mode of Travelling— Cross the Hudson on the Ice— Awkward Accident— Mr. Doheny in Albany— American Notions of Young Irelandism— Impostors— Laughable Occurrence ......... 1

Chapter II

Start for Buffalo— Scene with a Yankee Bailway Clerk— Believed from my Dilemma by some brother Exiles— Meet my Friend in Buffalo with two Recruits —Increase of the Californian Fever as I went West— Visit the Falls of Niagara— Great Fall in my preconceived Notions regarding them— Fairy Suspension-bridge— Novel Test of its Safety— Description of the Canadian Stage-coach— Glance at the Country and Towns— Detroit -Cause of its Statu Quo— Start for Niles— MRough Jaunt thence to Michigan City- Description of the Country— Lose my Way— Meet some Sulky Indians- Get right again after some Fatigue and Anxiety— Beach Chichago— Great Chain of Inland Navigation— Fine Farming Country on Fox and Bock Bivers — Melancholy Occurrence in the Vicinity of Chichago— Disagreeable Travel from that Town— Arrive at Juliett— Struggle on to Ottoway, a nice thriving Town— Its Manufactures— City of Peru; Wretched Place— The Post-office there— Get a Steamer to St. Louis— Affecting Steam-boat Disaster— St. Louis a fine City . . . . . . .17 CHAPTER IH.

Pleasing Aspect of Slavery at St. Louis — Meet an Old Schoolfellow resident there — Takes me to see the Lions — Get our full Complement of Becruits — Decline Equipping until we reached the Frontier Towns — Town filled with Californian Placards — Streets lined with Californian Implements — Newspapers crammed with Californian Advertisements — Hold a Meeting of the Company, at which I was elected Captain — All Novices in Desert-Travelling — Adopt a Costume— Give a Dinner to our Friends — Attend a Nigger Ball —Description of the Assembly— Get Turned Out— The Cause Explained— Start for Independence — Steam-boat Company— Their Tastes and Habits — The Missouri Biver and its Settlers— Wild Fowl ; Wild Turkey— Bifle MPractice — Jefferson City, the Capital of Missouri — Steam-boat Bace ; Nervous Affair— Study of American Customs— Left behind at Boonville— Exciting Bace— Independence— Get our Outfit — MPurchase Mules, Horses, and Waggons—Difficulty of Managing our Mules— Nigger Mode of dealing with them— Start for the Line— Indian Tribes ; their Decline— Bavenous Pigs- Arrangement of Duties ..... ... CONTENTS. VI

Chapter IV

page Start Monday, 16th April— Feeling on launching out on the Prairie— Description of the Scene— The lone Elm-Disappointment^Bull Creek- Soaking Rainstorm— Pleasing Scenery— Stick in the Mud— Unpleasant Quarters— Wolfish Serenade -Indian Creek -Handsome Landscape— Indian Visit— Crossing of the Wakarusa : its Difficulties- Coon Point— Prairie Spring— Game— Absence of the Buffalo; the Cause— Effect on Indian population—The Shonganong— Bad Travelling— Break an Axle— Indian Settlement—Break a Tongue — Alarming Accident — Blacksmith's Shop and Residence—Trouble about getting hrm to Work— Reach the Kansas -Trading Post— Style of Trading there— Indian Fops— Ferry of the Kansas— Risk of Crossing— Catch some Fish— Beautiful Valley of the Kansas— Reflections- French Catholic Mission— Devotedness of the Rev. Father to his Flock and Pupils —Construct a temporary Viaduct— Approach the Pawnee Nation— Their Habits and Propensities— Attempt to steal our Animals—" The Vermilion"— Indian Interposition— Shoot Birds resembling Woodcock — Quantity of Wolves— Disappointment about the Position of the "Big Blue" — Bad Camping-Ground— Miss one of our Men— Protracted and fatiguing Search— Cause of his Straying— Directions to prevent such Occurrences for the Future BO

Chapter V

Second Start for the "Big Blue"— Prairie on Fire— Frightful Appearance impossible to describe — Indian Camp— Abundance of Fish — Jokes about the " Blue"— Dry Weather— Council— Dreadful Thunderstorm— Glorious Dawn — Beautiful Basin— Wolf Chase, and extraordinary Accident— The real " Big Blue" at last — Most melancholy Occurrence — Reflections on the sad Event — Commencement of the Mosquito Nuisance — Fertile Neighbourhood — Lay by a Day — Hurricane — Wild Turkey Chase — Number of Rattlesnakes — Our Fears of them — Missing Horses found — Indications of Buffalo — May Morning Thoughts of Home— Lovely Landscape — Quantity of Plover — One of the Party bit by a Snake— Bad Camping-Ground— Sudden Change of Temperature— Indian Wigwams— Their Shyness a bad Augury of their Intentions— Supposed Attack — Indians watching us — Surprise them — Slight Skirmish— Fish and Fowl plenty— Wagtails enemies to Constipation— Navicular Disease, how guarded against ..... 68

Chapter VI

Mirage — "Little Blue" again— Rainstorm— Appearance of the Camp— Delightful Scenery— Reflections— Observance of the Sabbath— Fresh-water Turtle — Indians take the Shape of Wolves— Kill an Antelope — Visit of the Pawnees— Their Appearance— Short Description of the Tribe— Their Mode of Trading— Ugly Women— Pelican- Bluffs of the Platte— Saline Efflorescences—Grand Island— Dig for Water— Musquitoes again— Their Pertinacity— Novel Wager— Fort Kearney— American Soldiers— Profitable Price of Whisky— Battle-ground of the Sioux and Pawnees— Seagulls Inland- Hurricane and Thunderstorm— Stampede— Disagreeable NightXMore Crystalised Incrustations— Prairie Dog Town— Appearance and Habits of the Animal— Accident to the Mules— Use of Lariats— Scarcity of Firewood- Unerring Signs of Buffalo— Amazing Size of the Herds— Ineffectual Attempt to cross the Platte after them . . . . . .90

Chapter VII

Shaved Look of the Prairie— Speckled with Chip— Second Attempt at crossing—Successful, but attended with great Danger— Kill a Buffalo— Estimate of their Numbers— Prairie Wolves; their Sagacity— Narrow Escapes at Recrossing— " Misfortunes never come Single"— Crossing of the Buffalo- Flight of our Animals— Peculiarities of the Buffalo— Lie in wait for a Drove coming over the River- Shoot a Cow— Their Appearance at this Season— A November Robe the best -Gregarious Propensities— Interfere with the Progress of the Mexican Army— Bufl'alo Break— Meet a small Herd on our Path— Wound one— Account of the Chase— Nervous Affair- Mode of Preserving the Meat— Extraordinary Thickness of the Buffalo Skull— Test it by Rifle Practice— Our Camp— Obliged to drive our Stock on an Island— Rain saturates the Chip, and leaves us without Fire— CONTENTS.

VII PAGE Crumbling and Dissatisfaction of the Men— Some wish to Return—Per suaded to wait till we reach Fort Laramie— Buffalo Milk— Another Prairie Dog Towti— Cheerless Landscape; Effects on the Spirits— Sagacity of the Mule— Miss some of our Men, who appear in the Morning greatly knocked up 107

Chapter VIII

Beds for the Invalids— Mode of decoying Antelope— Try it, and Succeed— Sleetstorm— Soft State of the Ground— Cannot find a Dry Spot to Camp on— A Lot of Mules get badly Mired— Continuance of the Storm— Dread lest the River should rise— The Indian Dreader alarmed again— Visit of a large Party of Sioux Indians— Handsome Caparisons— Reason of our Friend's Precipitate Return— Description of the Sioux— Their Costume— Mode of betokening Friendship —Exhibit our Trading Wares— Interchange of Presents—They leave, promising to meet us at the Ford in the Morning- Do not meet their War Party— Mode of Indian Burial— Find the Ford too deep for Crossing— Try it, but are forced to desists Washing on the Plains —Sioux come again in a handsome Cavalcade — Beauty and Fascinations of the Sioux Women— Sioux Cleverness at Trading— Visit their Village by Invitation — Description of their Town and Wigwams— Juvenile Archery —Get a Cure for my Horse— Give an Acknowledgment of our kind Reception — Take our reluctant Leave — False Character given of the Sioux- River Falls— Wound an Indian by Mistake— Great Breadth of the Platte— The task of Crossing— Consolation in a Hailstorm— Try our New Buffalo Horse— Description of the Indian style of hunting that Animal— Nervous Passage over a very Narrow Ridge— Dangerous Descent and Accident- Lovely Basin at the Bottom— Whirlwind— Enormous sized Hailstones— "Ash Hollow," "North Platte" . . . . . . .122

Chapter IX

Drifting Sand— Court-House Rock— Uninteresting Scenery — More Rain— Its disagreeable Effect— Chimney Rock — Its Appearance — Fast decaying— Symptoms of Gold in the Ravines— Continued Rain — Damages our Provisions—Stopped by the Mud— Brandy Rations— Mount Ararat— Scenery improves — Indian Introduction — Air our Loading— Shoot Antelope — French Trapper — Fascinations of that Mode of Existence — Anticipations about Fort Laramie— The Fort itself— Obliging Governor— Trading at the Fort- Distance from Independence, and Time occupied in Travelling— Future Facilities — Determine on Packing— Dissuasions of the Governor unavailing — Crow Indians ; their very baa Character — Faith in Indian Chivalry — Vote of Thanks— Troubles of Packing— Renewed Contests with the Mules —Their Antics— Difficulty of cording Packs— Pack turns; Conductor the Mules thereon— Our first Night's Bivouac as Packers— Black Hills ; expansive View — Worrying Mishap and Delay — Moonlight Travel — Thoughts about the Crows— Long Day's Journey — Fatigue, Disappointment, Delight, and Apprehension— Unwelcome Sounds— Deliberation— The Appearance of the Country— Crickets and Ants— Our Precautions preparative to rest . 146

Chapter X

Large dry River-bed— Notice nailed to a Tree— Forced Marches of the Waggons—Buffalo Break— Long Day's Journey — No Sign of Waggons— Bad Policy of forcing Travel on such a Journey — Indians about —Report of a Gun at Daybreak— Our Waggon Friends at length— The Ferry of the Platte- Mormon Encampment — The Crossing— Lamentable Accident— Iucommunicativeness of the Mormons — Fearful Mule-track above the River — Description of the Passage — The Sand Tick Nuisance — " Travelling makes us acquainted with Strange Bedfellows" — Artemesia — " Long Threatening comes at last"— The Crow Indians— We treat them with Confidence— They treat us with Treachery— The Scuffle— Our Good Fortune— Annihilation of our Packing Fixtures— Ruse to Escape their Vengeance— Midnight Travel —Come up to the Waggon Camp— New Arrangement— Volcanic Debris- Bitter Water— Distant View of the Wind River Range— Sal Eratus Lakes — " The Sweetwater"— Independence Rock— Misnomer of the River— Wonderful Canon— Our Last Buffalo— Surprise a Partv of Crows— Their great Fright— Artemesia Fire-No Buffalo west of the Rocky Mountains . . CONTENTS. 9

Chapter XI

pagb Lodge Pole-marks— Indian mode of Removing— Increase of Artemesia and Lizards— Fine View— South Pass— Contrast with the Imagination— Horse and Lodge Pole -marks— Cold Nights and Hot Days-Immense Indian Encampment—Our Feelings on seeing it — Move down to Camp on the River opposite them— Saluted by a "White Man in our own Language— M. Vasquez, of Fort Bridger— Tells us they are Shoshonee, or Snake Indians— Their Character and Habits— Adopt the Salt Lake Route— Origin of Fort Bridger— M. Vasquez' Speculation — Imposing Cortege — Trade with the Snakes- Enter the South Pass— The Pacific Springs— Thoughts of Home— Royal Bedfellow— Distance from Independence— Thoughts on Waggon Travel- Excitement of Travelling in New Countries — Severe Frost — Mountain Sickness — Appearance of the Country— Curious Buttes— The Little Sandy —Big Sandy— No Heath in America— Green River— Story of the Old Pawnee Mocassin ....... ... 188

Chapter XII

The Ferrying of Green River— The Mode and Difficulty— The Hard "Work swells our Invalid List— Dangerous Symptoms — Effects of the Mountain Fever— Extreme Heat— Bad Roads and Fatigue of Animals— Black's Fork of Green River— Scenery of the Wilderness— Fort Bridger— Purchase a Small Beef— Mr. Bridge's Kindness— Sage-Hens— The Little Muddy— Waggon Accident — Visit from a small Party of Snakes — The Love of their Horses— Snaking Swamp— Another Waggon Accident — Bad River crossing —Drown a Mule— Crowd of Hills— Primitive Bridge— Fine Country— Shoot two Antelopes— Our old Tormentors— New Discovery— Slaughter of Rattlesnakes—Midnight Indian Visit— Get into the Region of Snow— Slide down into a Narrow Valley— Great Anticipations of the Mormon City — Thunderstorm—Exciting Bear Hunt— Fright of the Animals— Distant View of the Mountains of the Salt Lake Valley — Romantic Scenery— Reflections — " The Jumping-off Place" — Unprecedented Descent— Comparison of the Dangers of a Fox Chase with such driving— Description of the Mormon Canon- Mormon Lime-burners ........ 200

Chapter XIII

Gratification at meeting a White Man — Doubt our having come the whole way this Season— Exchange Tumblers of Brandy- Punch for Letters of Introduction—Our being mostly Foreigners ensured us a kinder reception — Meet more Mormons — A little Tobacco procures us a great desideratum — Emerge into open air— First View of the Salt Lake Valley — Its appearance —The City of the Mormons— Their Hospitality— Dancing Party— Polygamy and Platonism — Fresh Meat, and in abundance — Any Price or anything for Coffee and Sugar— Neatness aud convenience of Mormon Houses— Promise of an abundant Harvest — Wonders worked in so short a Settlement— Great quantity of Stock— Get all Repairs done— Natural hot Baths— The Temple —The Congregation— The Proceedings— The Sermon— Imoressions of Mormon Godliness— Civil Government- Mormon Jealousy— The Population in the Valley— Extreme Heat of it— Swarms with Crickets— T. T. L. Visits- Amiability of the Ladies ....... 221

Chapter XIV

Effects of the Tender Passion— Early Start— Boiling Springs— The Great Salt Lake— Its Appearance— Analysis of its Waters— Its Peculiarities— Comfort of the Mormon Agriculturists— The Cricket Nuisance— More Wives Spiritual and Temporal -Change our System of Travel- The Weber— Obliged to ferry over our Loads -Mr. Goodyear's Farm— lhick Jungle— The Ogden— Fine View— Heat of the Sun— Water before Gold— Fierce Insects— Signal Fires— Bear River— Surprised to find Men in the act of launching a Boat— Musquitoes— Lose a Horse and Mule in the Ferry— Our Camp-ground— Take a more Westerly Course — Scarcity of Fresh Water— Salt Streams Hot and Cold side by side— Send out Scouts to look for Water— Their protracted Absence— Our Sufferings— Come to Water at last— Shoot an Indian -Lamentable Necessity for such Rigour— Last View of the Great Salt Lake -The Broad-axe Guard— Desolation and Solitude . . .234 CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XV

page The Digger Indians— Their Appearance, Character, Habits, and Customs— Their extent of Territory— Their Practices towards Emigrants— Desert Country— The toil of the Animals— The 4th of July— Festival in the Wilderness — Occurrences of the Night— Fine Feed— Country again improves—Meet the Forst Hall Trail— Picturesque Scenery— Shoot a Black-tailed Deer -Different Treatment of Venison in those Hills from Ludgate-hill — Our friend the Indian Dreader in fear— Goose Creek— The Wild Excitement—The Blank Disappointment— " All is not gold that glitters"— True Philosophy make our Disappointment Food for Fun— Further Researches— Volcanic indications— Narrow Pass — No Gold-Rugged Defile- Waggon Accident — " Necessity the Mother of Invention"— Sage Hens and Digger Indians— Their Flight; — Apprehension of having gone astray — Snow-capped Mountains to cross— Infamous Road— Giddy Precipice— The Humboldt River— Strange Appearance of the Iaand near its head waters- Colonel Fremont's Description of the Humboldt River . . .252

Chapter XVI

Short Cut— Indian Surprise — My Retreat and Wound —The Termination of the Chase — Motives of the Attack — The Dust Nuisance— A hungry Digger —His Gastronomic Performance— Its Effect— Travelling in the Clouds- Heat of the Ground — Novel Appearance of tbe Country — Mountain Pass- Night Travelling in the Wilderness— Sublime Scenery — Moonlight- Sunrise — Opthalmia and Cracked Lips — The Sun, and its reflective Heat— The Water gets ill-tasted— Grand Canon— State of the Animals and our Lips- Wild Currants — Dogged by the Indians— Give them a Surprise — Amusing Retreat ofthe Diggers — Good Camping-Ground — Serious Difficulties of the Route— Deep Dust and intense Heat— Proposition — Lighten our Loads- Leave our Goods upon the Desert — Reduce tho Burdens to seven hundredweight per Waggon — Effects of the hot Sand on our Waggon-wheels — Green Goggles and Veils in request — More Currants — My Wound becomes very angry— Appoint a Deputy— Diverting Indian Water-hunt see CHAPTER XVH.

Another Surgical Operation— Obliged to take up my abode in a Waggon- Time for Reflection— A Waggon Dream— Volcanic Indications— Spectral Waltzes— Shoot some Sage-Hens— Bitter bad Water— Get into the Saddle again Petrified Fungi and Volcanic Debris— Appalling Sterility— Diminution of the River— Thickness of the Water— The Ashy Dust— Miss Mitford's definition of it— Opthalmia in the Horses— Alluvial Bottom— Milage in the Wilderness — Deceived as to the Sink— Frigidum Line— Ulcerated Sore-Throats— Appearance of the Animals— Meagre Diet— Crippled Appearance of the Caravan— Magical influence of Golden Anticipations- Pimping Indians— Mowing with Case-Knives— Diggers come amongst us unawares— No Hostility Get them to Work— Their Mode of wearing English Apparel— Make our Hay into Trusses, and divide it— Volcanic Evidences—The Sink of Humboldt River— Description of it— Order of Travel across the Desert— Reflections on the Sufferings of those who will come later in the Season— Account of their dire Character— Humboldt River free from the Musquito Torment . . . . . . .281 CHAPTER XVm.

The Wheels braced by Immersion —Face the Desert in good Spirits— Blinding Dust— The Sulphur Springs— Heat of the Morning Sun— Grand Exhibition of Mirage— Dreadful Toil— Withering Heat— Insensibility of some of the Men -Impatience ofthe Stock while getting their Gruel -Temporary Insanity— Simoom— Its Providential Effects— Hurrah ! Carson's River— The Science of Guzzling- Conduct of the Insane Men- Scenes of the Desert- Heartless Conduct— Whence the name of Carson River— Its Course and Peculiarities— A Day's Rest in Paradise— Recovery of the Invalids- Colonel Fremont's Description of the Great Biisin . . . .296 VOL. I. I) X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.

page Start from Carson River— Abridged Edition of the Desert -First View of the Great Sierra Nevada— Innocent Reflections— Laudable Forbearance- Doubt and Anxiety— Removed by Patience— Indian Mischief— Sad Retribution—No Alternative— Appearance of the Country — Indian Troop— Their Errand— Their Views— Carson River again— Can't catch Fish—Indian Footprints — Tangled Trail— Volcanic Debris— Surprise some Indians—Their Terror— Their loathsome Look— Trail over Cinders and Clinkers— Its Effect on the Mules and Waggons— Full Profile of the Great Sierra Nevada— Its grand Appearance — Lovely Valley— Gigantic Pines- Fremont's Description — Our Camp at the Mountain Base— Indian Visit — Trade for Trout— They dissemble their Skill in Archery— Method of Drawing them out— More Fish next Morning — Indian Mode of getting into English Apparel — Romantic Emotions— Yankee Definition — Passage of an awful Canon— Description— A break down— The Crossing of the Torrent- Reed Lake— Reach the Foot of the Pass— Its impracticable Look— What the Horses think of it —What the Mules— Preparations for the Ascent . 309

CHAPTER XX.

Commence the Ascent— Horses encouraged by the'Mules to make the Trial — A displaced Rock causes the Death of one of the Horses— The Damages and Difficulties ofthe Task— Frightful Chasm— Pure Cold Water— How we got up the Waggons— Danger from the Rocks rolling down— Deplorable Accident— Lose two Mules — Finish the Task— Make a Call on the Echoes of the Sierra Nevada— Winter Scenery in the Dog-days— Paddy Blake's Remark — Deceived as to the Summit of the Range — Drop into a Fertile Valley — Ascents and Descents— The Region of Perpetual Snow — Snow Stairs— Cold Nights— Adopt Indian Tactics— Description of the Mountain Scenery — Measurement of* some Trees— Grizly Bear and Family — Moonlight Travel in the Mountain Pines— No Fruit: no Birds — Fertile Basin — The Manzanita— Indian Foray — Pleasant Valley — Californian Quail — Chilian Gold-Diggers— The first Sample of the veritable Stuff, and no mistake — Their Account of the Diggings — Dry Diggings — Average Returns — Weber Creek— End of the Journey for the Present—Time Employed — Our grateful Feelings at its Termination — Seal up tbe Property of our Departed Comrades— Acquaint their Friends of their melancholy Fate — The Contemplated Railway from the States to the Pacific— Distance Table from Independence to San Francisco ........ 3J3

Chapter I

Haul out of Dock — Gale of Wind — Anchor in the Eiver — Description of the Company — All get on Good Terms — Weigh next Morning under Steam, Wind Unabated — Breakfast-table Scene — Sea Sickness — Cure by Vaccination — Sea ran so high, obliged to take Pilot on — His Feelings on the Subject—Barque bears down bound for Bristol, and takes him — Dreadful Squall off the Banks — Strange Meteoric Phenomenon — Description of the Passengers during the Gale— Yankee Pilot-boat and Pilot— Short Sketchy Eeference to New York, being desirous to hurry on to the Prairie — Visit Boston — Superb Eiver Steamer — Senatorial and Nigger Eloquence — Eeturn to New York, and start for Albany by Eail — Description of that Mode of Travelling — Cross the Hudson on the Ice — Awkward Accident — Mr. Doheny in Albany — American Notions of Young Irelandism — Impostors — Laughable Occurrence.

We hauled out of dock, in that fine steam-ship the Sarah Sands, on the morning of the 20th of January, 1849, hut there was such a hurricane blowing from the west, it was considered not only useless, but exceedingly dangerous, to put out to sea in the teeth of it. So the anchor was dropped in the river. We were not over-crowded with passengers, having just enough to VOL. I. B constitute an agreeable party, chastened by the presence of some of the softer sex, whose charms and accom plishments dispelled the tedium and monotony of the voyage. Amongst the gentlemen we had every variety and shade of character, " both grave and gay, lively and severe;" some most amusing blades of in6nite mirth, who were wont " to keep the table in a roar," and, as usual on all such occasions and congregations, a butt, who unconsciously contributed to the cheerful ness and good humour of the society.

None were allowed on shore, as the captain resolved on starting the moment ofthe slightest lull; however, it blew on, with very little abatement, all day and night, and as the passengers had nothing else to do, they set about breaking the ice of formaHty with so very earnest a will, that by the time the midnight summons was tolled all were on the most familiar terms possible, separating more after the manner of old friends than new-born acquaintances. Before I had any idea of turning out in the morning, it not being quite Hght, I heard the windlass bousing up the anchor, and the wind also whistling through the cordage in C sharp; sounds that brought me on deck to see what was going on, when I found the ship just under weigh, with her propeller, not a rag of canvas being set, as the wind was dead ahead, still blowing great guns; but, as the vessel's trips were pre advertised, Captain Thompson would not wait another tide.

When the breakfast-gong sounded we were abreast of the Rock light, pitching into it in most staggering style, and of those who clambered to that meal only two of the passengers remained to finish : rather an early beginning, considering, I may say, that we were still in fresh water, barely emerging from the chops of the river. But this sea-sickness is a strange, unaccountable malady — infectious, no doubt, like yawning — for no sooner did one gentleman evince a disposition to retreat, than another uttered a groan, with indistinct inquiry for the steward, which proved the signal for a most inharmonious chorus, during which all the per formers made their exit, leaving the table cleared ot every one but the ship's officers and a pair of case hardened voyageurs, who found food for mirth in the muffled moans that issued from the distant berths and state rooms, our gallant commander jocularly remark ing, " Who would not sell a farm and come to sea?"

As with toothache, there is no commiseration for the victims, because there is no danger; and like it, too, it entails exquisite suffering, without any " safe or certain remedy" for its cure or even alleviation being as yet discovered, though I believe the British Association have turned their attention to the matter, profess ing to deal with it by some process of vaccination, which, however, they have as yet kept a profound secret. The sea ran so high outside the Light-ship we could not put the pilot on board his craft, and were, consequently, obliged to bring him on, in expectation of meeting a vessel down Channel to take him to port ; but we took a last leave of the land off Cape Clear withb2 out much subsidence of the gale, or an opportunity of transhipping him; much, I should say, from all appearances, to his great gratification, being anxious to see the New World on such favourable terms as a free passage, all found out and home, and his wages accu mulating during his absence.

He was a fine, active, intelligent young fellow, and soon became a general favourite, and not wishing to remain idle, proffered his gratuitous services in any department; but the vessel carried so full and efficient a crew, they were most thankfully declined, reminding me of an occurrence of a somewhat similar nature that happened to a friend of mine at the Punch office, where some excellent original jokes were politely handed him back on the same grounds. I don't know exactly how the pilot felt, but my friend, I know, was not a little mortified. The weather now began to moderate, but the perti nacious wind kept still confronting us until we reached a longitude about 800 miles to the westward, when we saw a large barque evidently bearing down for us, and our captain, not divining the object, hove to while she came within hail to ascertain our longitude, the weather being so hazy for some days back she could not get the sun.

Everybody seemed to take an interest in the brazen colloquy but the pilot, who even retired from the deck, actuated by very opposite motives, lest his appearance might suggest the idea of sending him home, if the barque happened to be bound for a British port. However, in his absence he was not forgotten, for when, in answer to the question, "Where are you bound for?" "Bristol" came down the wind, " Pilot, make ready to go abo.ard!" was sung out at the top of the captain's voice. I never saw a poor fellow so chapfallen ; all his efforts to affect indifference were wholly abortive, and when taking leave, he hurried through the formula with a nervous precipitancy that let out the state of his feelings. We now got a favourable slant which carried us to the Banks of Newfoundland, when one night, as we were all engaged, some at whist, some at chess, some in conversation, and others in hammock, going along smoothly, a sudden sensation struck us Hke that of the unexpected stop of a vehicle travelling rapidly.

We were tilted against each other; the candles reeled; the captain (whose watch it was below) rushed on deck; and before we could coin a conjecture, the ship was labouring violently, and the stern roar of command, and the clattering of feet on deck, and the hauling of ropes, and the dread bellowing of the elements, an nounced a tremendous squall, which took us aback, and would, no doubt, have resulted in a most dire catas trophe, only for the promptness and cool energy of the captain and his hardy crew, who had taken in studding-sails, reefed topsails, and got the vessel under easy canvas, before one of the passengers ventured up to inquire " what was the matter." Some of us imagined the ship had been struck by lightning as well, for the mast-heads and yard-arm ends were studded with large meteors — a phenomenon new to us all; but no one dared ask a question ; nor would it have been answered were it asked, for all the men and officers had ample employment for their faculties besides giving explana tions of the sort.