A History of the County of Brecknock, etc

Front matter

Copies printed, of which this is No z...r.Jl Theophilus Jones' History of Brecknockshire 1898 EDITION. Brecknock. / t_^ * r:N^~/ A^_V- /^^S^VvC ■• /^ -7"— -^i^S^s LwZaMu<npJfo (JuA#ate/iAu, GENER.iL HiST0RY,^€/^€m4^u^,L^^7?ru CBy JOJ^J^S? Deputy Registrar ofthe Archdr-V of Bfecon. <A%& aAA^siv&s**^ '/levilx&y/rts ettaw . n&vt* tA'/u-c/crU/titem, <ALvi&Ao> °/?i6>l4!>m* o^ccctm - cp/.r, A/>,r rr.rt r.t. BRECKNOCK. Re-printed and Sold by Edwin Davies, Printer and Publisher. London Agent: Phillimore Sf Co., Essex Street, Strand. 1898. TO THE Right Hon. Lord Tredegar, OF TREDEGAR PARK, WHO RODE WITH THE NOBLE 600 AT THE BATTLE OF BALACLAVA, THIS REPRINT IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE PUBLISHER PUBLISHER'S

Preface

. I HAVE for some years thought that a Reprint of Mr. Theophilus Jones' "History of * Brecknockshire " would be acceptable to a large number of my countrymen in Wales and over the Border. The work is valuable not only as a repertory of information on all matters pertaining to the history of the county, but also as containing much that is interesting on antiquarian subjects for others than those immediately connected with the oounty. I felt that such a work should be brought within the reach of a wider circle of readers than those to whom the original edition was accessible. Upon the rare occasions when a copy came into the market, the price demanded was practically prohibitive except to a wealthy bibliophile. It was not, however, until the autumn of 1897, that I was in a position to discuss the question of a re-issue.

I laid the project before several gentlemen whose opinions I considered valuable, but the majority thought the enterprise of far too speculative a character ; and I should probably have relinquished the idea had not a letter of hope and encouragement reached me from the lady who has so kindly written for this volume a Biography of its Author. An appeal for subscribers was issued in October, and within a month I received such assurances of support as I thought justified me in placing the copy in the printers' hands. During the interval the printing has been pushed forward, and despite the great difficulties and responsibilities attached to so large an undertaking, I have been able to publish the Book to the time promised. The original copy which I have used for this Reprint was formerly the property of the late Dr. Wynter, who made several marginal notes relating to his family ; but, following the rule laid down, I have ignored them, interesting though they are.

I should state here that many suggestions have reached me in reference to making corrections and additions. The task I set myself was to reprint Jones' History as he wrote it ; this I have done. A future historian will, no doubt, deal with the various points raised by some of my correspondents. In addition to printing the whole of the text, it will be found that I have had the Maps and Engravings in the original work carefully reproduced. It was thought by some that I might possibly secure the copper plates used for the original, but although I have made diligent inquiry in London and elsewhere, I have only been able to trace three of the plates. They were for some time in the possession of Mr. George Hughes, of Harp Gardens, Brecon, but only one of them remains, and that I understand is now the property of Mr. Buckley, who inherited the late Mr. Joseph's library : the other two were sold as old copper and melted down at Brecon.

All the blocks, therefore, used now are new ; and the coats of arms have been lithographed for this volume. I have been obliged to use type the size of which would enable me to bring the whole of the work into one volume. The edges have not been cut, because it was represented to me that many of the subscribers would, perhaps, desire to have the volume re-bound in a more expensive binding, or in a style to match their own libraries. The reader will, probably, before he has proceeded far, observe many inconsistencies in orthography, and will be much puzzled over the matter of punctuation. Here again I have followed the original. Much as I should have liked to adopt a method which would have rendered the Author's sentences clearer, I felt there were instances where it would be dangerous to interfere with Jones, who, in one of his volumes, frankly acknowledges his ignorance of any system of punctuation. PUBLISHER'S

PREFACE.

. The Author produced his work in two volumes, and the second volume contained two parts. It will be seen that I have placed the whole of the appendices at the end of the present Book, and have altered the references accordingly. When he sent his last volume to press, the Author found it necessary to make several corrections and additions. Those I have added as foot-notes in the proper places, and have distinguished them from Jones' foot-notes by adding my name at the end of each. Just as this work is being completed, a circumstance has arisen, in the appointment of Colonel John Morgan, of Bank House, Brecon, for the second time, to the office of High Sheriff of the County, which gives me the opportunity of placing upon record the appreciation felt locally at the unique position he now occupies.

To have held the office of High Sheriff twice and that of Mayor of Brecon six times, is a distinction of which, so far as I have been able to ascertain, there does not previously occur an instance in the annals of the County or Borough. I have, therefore, added his portrait to this volume. Colonel Morgan, whose beautiful house is stated to have once being the home of Theophilus Jones, was born in 1846, and was by profession a private banker, from which he has retired for some years. He was made a J.P. for the Borough in 1876, and for the County in 1882 ; for six years (1884, 1888, 1889, 1890, 1891, and 1892) he was Mayor of Brecknock, and first served the office of High Sheriff in 1888, and is the present High Sheriff for Brecknockshire. Colonel Morgan, for a period of twenty-eight years, took the keenest interest in the Volunteer movement, and was a liberal contributor to the funds of the Brecknockshire Battalion, from which he retired with the rank of Hon. Lieutenant- Colonel in 1892, and was granted by Her Majesty the Volunteer Officers' Decoration.

Colonel Morgan is a Deputy-Lieutenant of the County, and since 1888 has uninterruptedly held a seat at the Brecknockshire County Council. The Brecknockshire Agricultural Society, one of the oldest in the kingdom, enrolled him twice as its president. He is a member of several Clubs, including the Junior Carlton, the Brecon and County, and the Cardiff and County ; and has been twice W.M. of the Loyal Brecknock Lodge of Freemasons. In olden times Brecon could boast of many benefactors, but I think, when the later history of the Borough comes to be written, the name of Colonel Morgan will stand prominent as the greatest benefactor to Brecon during the nineteenth century. From documents in my possession, I find that the public contributions made by Colonel Morgan to various objects have reached a total of nearly £ 10,000 — a very considerable fortune.

The handsome Town Hall at Brecon the presentation portrait of Colonel Morgan in oils, the clock in St. Mary's steeple and its restored bells, are some of the public benefactions of this gentleman ; and there must also be many private donations, because I find no mention of the gold casket presented to His Royal Highness the late Duke of Clarence, K.G., when he visited Brecon and received the Freedom of the Borough, to which honour Colonel Morgan himself was a few years later advanced by his grateful townsmen. I have to thank the Right Hon. Lord Tredegar, for allowing this volume to be dedicated to him; Miss Philip Morgan, of Brecon, for her Biography of the Author; Mr. Rhys Davies J.P., for several opportunities for consultation ; Mr. Hadley Watkins, G. & L., and Mr G H T* Dauncey (surveyor of taxes), for assistance in preparing the index: and the Subscribers all the world over, whose ready response to my appeal made the publication of this work possible Your obedient Servant, EDWIN DAVIES, Brecon, August, 1898.

Publisher COL JOHN MORGAN. Y.D.. J.P.. D.L., HIGH SHERIFF. THEOPHILUS JONES, F.S.A. " If anything I have suggested shall be productive of benefit to one deserving person, or my lucubrations shall afford amusement and satisfaction to the public, my ends are obtained. The utmost extent of my ambition is, that I may live a few years in the recollection and approbation of my countrymen after Providence shall have consigned me to the long silence of the grave." Theophilus Jones, 1805, in his Preface to Vol. I. NEARLY a century has passed since the words quoted above were written by the Historian of Brecknockshire, and the fact that a Re-print of his History — without note or comment, but an exact copy of the first edition — should have been eagerly subscribed for at this distance of time, is proof, if any such were needed, of the vitality of the book, and of the place which Theophilus Jones holds in the hearts of his countrymen.

The saying " Happy is the country that has no history ! " may also apply to individuals, and in that sense it is true of the subject of this sketch. His uneventful existence, passed in a quiet country town, furnishes no stirring incidents from which to weave an elaborate biography, the story of his life being that of his History. Some three generations have passed away since he walked through the country he loved so well, yet into our own time there have lived those who knew him, who have watched him fishing of a summer's evening, who have spoken of his kindliness, and who have nothing to tell, that does not confirm the impression left on our minds after reading his great book, that he was a God-fearing, amiable and upright man. His life was one of simplicity and hard work carried out during a period of physical suffering heroically borne.

He turned from the possibilities of wealth (his partner and successor amassed a large fortune, and purchased a considerable estate in the neighbourhood), to comparative poverty, in order that he might rescue from oblivion the memorials of past days, many of which would otherwise never have come down to us. The debt which the posterity of a county owes to its conscientious, careful antiquary can hardly be over-estimated, and Brecknockshire has been peculiarly fortunate in this respect. It is surely a matter of no small pride and satisfaction to us to realize, that the best County History in Wales was written by Theophilus Jones, that the best History of Wales in Welsh, " Hanes Cymru," was the work of the Rev. Thomas Price, vicar of Cwmdu, and that the only History of Wales written in English was by Miss Jane Williams, " Ysgafell," all of whom belonged to Brecknockshire by birth, breeding and descent.

Theophilus Jones was born in Brecon on 18th October, 1759, and on 8th November following he was baptized in the chapel of St. Mary in that town. His father, the Rev. Hugh Jones, was at that time curate of St. David's, Brecon, and lived in a charming old house in Lion street (one of the many town residences of the county families, who used to come to Brecon for the Assizes and other gatherings), where Dr. George Bull, Bishop of St. David's, had died earlier in the century. The Rev. Hugh Jones later became vicar of the parishes of Llangammarch and Llywel (those were the days of pluralists in the Church, and residence was not a necessity) ; he was also prebendary of Boughrood Llanbedr Painscastle in the Collegiate Church of Brecknock (Christ's College). He had married Elinor, elder daughter of the Rev. Theophilus Evans, vicar of Llangammarch from 1738 to 1763, (in which year he resigned the living in favour of his son-in-law, Mr. Hugh Jones); Mr. Evans was also vicar of St. David's, Brecon, to which he was inducted 8th June, 1739. lt is always interesting to note the hereditary influences, which have helped to form the tastes and characters of remarkable men, and no account of Theophilus Jones' life would be complete, that did not touch on his maternal grandfather's career.

He seems to have been a man of considerable ability, and is spoken of by his grandson with affectionate respect. Theophilus Evans was the fifth son of Charles Evans, of Pen-y-wenallt, Cardiganshire, of the tribe of Gwynfardd Dyfed, (whose father had suffered even to imprisonment for his loyalty to Charles I.) He was born in 1694, ordained deacon in 1718, and priest in 1719, by the Bishop of St. David's. The friendship existing between his countrymen the Lloyds of Millfield and the Gwynnes of Glanbran, induced him to settle in this county. Here it may be interesting to give a short account of his literary work. His first publication was in Welsh, it appeared in 1716, and was called " Drych y Prif Oesoedd," or a "Mirror of Ancient Times," of which a second edition was published by him in 1740.

This work seems to have been very popular. It is a brief history of the ancient Britons, and several editions have subsequently been printed. In 1739 appeared his " Pwyll y Pader," being an exposition of the Lord's Prayer in several sermons, which he dedicated to Sackville Gwynne, Esq., of Glanbran, to whom he pays a compliment for his zeal in the encouragement and promotion of the worship of God by the erection of the church of Tyr Abot, which was Mr. Evans' first curacy ; he was also domestic chaplain to Mr. Gwynne of Garth. The dedicator)' portion of the work concludes with a prayer to the Deity, " that as his patron had until that " day lived in a mansion situated in a rich soil and in the fat of the land, nourished and " fertilized by the dew of heaven, after a length of days spent piously and happily in this " world, he might be awakened by an angel of life in the realms of bliss."

In 1752 he published iu English " A History of Modern Enthusiasm," of which another edition was brought out in 1757; both are now very rare. This book contained a severe attack upon all dissenters from the Established Church. The circumstances under which this work, which roused so much feeling, was published, have not been fully recognized. In 1743 the Rev. John Wesley paid his first visit to Brecknockshire, which had already been stirred by the preaching of Howel Harris and Rowlands of Llangeithio. We read in his Diary (which Mr. Birrell has recently told us, throws more light upon the moral and social conditions of England in the eighteenth century than any other book,) under date May, 1743, Wednesday 3rd — came to Builth. Mr. Phillips, the Rector of Maesmynis (at whose invitation I came), soon to take knowledge of me.

I preached on a tomb at the east end of the church at four, and again at seven. Mr. Gwynne and Mr. Prothero, Justices ofthe Peace, stood on either hand of me. Mr. Gwynne was of Garth, and previously to this had stood with the Riot Act in his pocket near Llanwrtyd Church to hear Howel Harris preach, determined to arrest him, not doubting he was a madman, but was so deeply impressed by his preaching, that at the close he grasped Howel Harris' hand, besought his pardon, and took him home to Garth. Dr. Stevens gives a very interesting account of Mr. Gwynne : — " In Wales the Wesleys were " entertained at the opulent mansion of Marmaduke Gwynne, Esq., a magistrate, of Garth " His princely establishment usually comprised, besides nine children and twenty servants a " chaplain, and from ten to fifteen guests. . . .

The Wesleys preached to them daily " while seeking repose amid their liberal hospitality." The chaplain was the Rev. Theophilus Evans, as has been said, and he must have had many arguments with Mr. Wesley during" their frequent and lengthy interviews, though when Charles Wesley, the sweet singer of the movement, wedded Miss Sarah Gwynne, we do not find that the ceremony was performed by the chaplain. To quote again from John Wesley's Diary : — " 1739. April, Friday 7th, we reached Garth. Saturday 8th, I married my brother and Sarah " Gwynne. It was a solemn day, such as became the dignity of a Christian marriage. Unconvinced by all that he saw and heard, Mr Evans felt it his duty to protest, and Mr. Wesley and Mr. Whitfield wrote a reply to his book. In later years his grandson apologised for the bitterness of his tone in the following words : — " He wrote as a member of the Established Church to prevent by timely warning the repetition of those calamities produced by fanaticism in the generation preceding him, of the recurrence of which he seems to have been apprehensive from the spread of an enthusiasm equally mischievous, though assuming a different garb, artfully fomented and encouraged, as he apprehended, by the Church of Romes It is curious to read, that he seriously thought the Methodists were emissaries of the Roman Catholic Church, though it was not an uncommon belief at the time ; the memory of the Rising of 1745, and the sympathy of the Roman Catholics with the cause of the White Rose, made the popular mind ready to assign any new departure in religion or politics to the influence of the Jesuits.

Then the traditions of family sufferings and losses during the Civil War doubtless account for a genuine though exaggerated alarm at the doings of John Wesley and his followers. To his mind the terms " fanatic " and " enthusiast " were evidently synonymous, but to us, who are looking back at the course of events he anticipated, it seems impossible to imagine what the religious and social life of the eighteenth — nay, even of the nineteenth — centuries would have been without the "enthusiasm" of the great Fellow of Lincoln At the same time whilst it is customary to pour contempt on the clergy of the Church in Wales during the last century, it is refreshing to think of Mr. Evans as one, who may not unreasonably be taken as typical of the better kind of Welsh parish priest, of whom such a character remains as that given to him by Theophilus Jones : " My revered, learned and respectable grandfather " . . . who, notwithstanding the bitterness of his tone towards those who differed from him in their forms of faith, " had perhaps as much of the milk of human " kindness as any man who ever lived.

Of the value of money he knew little, books were " his only treasures, and employed the greatest part of that time in which he was not engaged " in the duties of his holy function, and in this character he was remarkably eminent." Mr. Evans was a fellow-labourer with the Rev. Griffith Jones, vicar of Llanddowror, the founder of the first day and Sunday schools in Wales. His circulating schools were started in 1730, in which year Mr. Evans wrote a "Letter on Education," published by Mr. Robert Raikes, of Gloucester, who may have been induced by the example of these Welsh clergymen to establish Sunday schools in England. It is pleasant to trace their beginning to our own County. When the good Vicar cf Llanddowror, "The Morning Star of the Welsh Reformation," died in 1761, these schools had been instrumental in teaching over 150,000 of the Welsh people to read God's Holy Word in their own tongue.

In the previous century the Rev. R. Powel, vicar of Boughrood, whose pious memory so many Brecon boys have had reason to bless, had left money by his will " to teach and " instruct poor children, natives of Brecon, in the English tongue, the better to enable them " to serve God, and manage their trades or occupations," on which Theophilus Jones makes the following remarkable commentary, which at least shows that he did not share his grandfather's opinions in relation to Sunday schools : — "It is not clear to me from these " words, whether this good divine intended these children should be taught to read and write " or not. I am sure I should respect his memory much more, if I thought he did not. " notwithstanding the fashionable mania for parochial and Sunday schools, which, 19 times out " of 20, only teach boys to misapprehend their Bible, to prate and become troublesome in " their neighbourhood."

Nearly one hundred years have passed away since that sentence was written in happy unconsciousness of the advent of a complete system of Welsh education, which will give our boys and girls the same advantages that Scotland has so long enjoyed, and which will make Brecon an educational centre of the greatest importance, if our countrymen realize the possibilities now within their grasp. In the year 1732 Mr. Evans discovered the mineral springs of Llanwrtyd, called "Ffynon Drewllyd " (stinking well), so valuable as a cure for scrofulous complaints. In a letter to the Editor of the " St. James's Chronicle," iu 1738, he gives an interesting account of the manner, in which hie attention first became attracted to these waters. In his quaint style he says: — "The writer hereof, being then almost worn out by a disease of many years " continuance, was casually informed of this then reputed venomous spring.

His curiosity led " him that way, which, by the smell, he could easily find without a guide. He sat on " the brink of it a long time dubious what to do. As he was thus musing and revolving in " his mind what he had best do, a frog popped out of the bottom, looked cheerfully, and, "as it were invited him to taste of the water. He then immediately concluded that the " water could not have any poisonous quality, because of that creature's living so comfortably " there, and took a moderate draught, about half-a-pint or more, without any concern or dread " of danger. By the use of this for about two months, and by taking baths in the water " every day, he became perfectly whole, though his case had been deemed incurable." Mr Evans lived at Llwyn Einon, in Llangammarch (now a farmhouse), and on his death left the little estate to Theophilus Jones, who honoured the memory of his grandfather by a peculiar attachment to the place.

Here the future Historian passed some of his early years, and there can be little doubt that during this period, young as he was, his antiquarian tastes were awakened and fostered, and that he inherited valuable materials for his History from his relative. The Rev. Theophilus Evans died September 11th, 1767, aged 73, and was buried in the churchyard of Llangammarch, " near the stile entering from the east." The education of Theophilus Jones was completed at Christ's College, Brecknock, which was then a large and flourishing school, attended by the sons of the surrounding country gentry, amongst whom he found many friends, and here began the life-long regard which existed between him and the Rev. Edward Davies, of Olveston, co. Gloucester, the learned author of " Celtic Researches," " Mythology of the British Druids," and other works.

To him he dedicated the second volume of his History. During the time he was at Christ's CoUege, the Head Master was the Rev. David Griffith (grandfather of the late Rev. Charles Griffith, M.A., of Glyn Celyn, Brecon), an accomplished scholar, of whom he spoke in after years as " the respected and respectable preceptor of my youth." His parents having decided that he should become a lawyer, Theophilus Jones was articled to Mr. Pennoyre Watkins, a solicitor in large practice then living in Brecon, and having passed through this period with great credit, upon the expiration of his articles he entered the profession on his own account, and continued in it for many years, practising with equal reputation and success as a solicitor and attorney in his county town. A vacancy occurring in the Deputy Registrarship of the Archdeaconry of Brecon, he was appointed to that office, which he held until his death.

To this circumstance we are probably indebted for the History, which will be for ever associated with the name of Theophilus Jones. Amongst the documents committed to his care were the records of the various parishes for centuries past, in the perusal of which he must have obtained a great amount of the information he afterwards introduced into his History. There is every reason to believe, that he had no natural inclination for the profession, to which he had been brought up, his chief delight being in literary studies and antiquarian research, but it was not until the year 1800 or 1801, that he seriously entertained the idea of writing the History of his native county. His father, the Rev. Hugh Jones, died 2nd April, 1799, (and was buried in St. David's Churchyard with his wife Elinor, who died 24th July, 1786), and this circumstance may have had much to do with the determination he now formed.

He found it was quite impossible to write the History, and at the same time to carry on his other duties. He had married Mary, daughter of Rice Price, Esq., of Porth-y-Rhyd, in the county of Caermarthen, (who was a member of the family of Price of Cilgwyn, the same family as Price of Glynllech, in Ystradgunlais), by Mary, daughter of Williams, Esq., of Llwyn wormwood. Having a small patrimony of his own, he determined with his wife's consent, to give up his practice, and live upon his private means, so that he might have time to prosecute his labours in compiling the History, which he succeeded in doing, though he lost upwards of £400 in the undertaking. He disposed of his practice to his partner, Mr. Samuel Church, of Ffrwdgrech, reserving to himself the Deputy Registrarship, which enabled him to have access to the various deeds, wills, &c, which were so important in his researches.

Having now the leisure in which to pursue the great object of his Hfe, he spared neither time nor expense in its execution. He personally visited every parish in the county; he copied the mural and monumental inscriptions in every church (many of which have since entirely disappeared during the "restorations" of recent years); he collected the folk-lore and legends from the aged inhabitants; he gathered all the information that could be acquired, and industriously collected from every repository that was open to his inspection, such documents as might enlarge, illustrate, or enrich his work. His perfect acquaintance with the language of his country enabled him to employ them to the best advantage. He availed himself largely of Hugh Thomas' MS. " Essay towards a History of Brecknockshire," which is preserved at the Bodleian Library, Oxford, and a portion of which is in the possession of Mr. George Hay, Brecon.

This Essay was written about 1698, and as far as it goes forms an invaluable contribution to local history, bringing the Brecon of the 17th century very vividly before us. Hugh Thomas was a member of an old Brecknockshire family settled at Llan frynach from the earliest times. He was a deputy herald and lived in Bloomsbury, London, though from his intimate knowledge of the place and people, he must have frequently visited Brecon. His spelling is peculiar, but his style of writing is easy and pleasant, at times gliding into gossip and long-forgotten scandals connected with the town. He was greatly impressed by the wickedness of the Normans in appropriating to themselves the fair lands, which belonged to the native Welshmen, and never wearies of pointing out how the judgment of God had fallen upon their descendants for that and other sins, and how the Welsh had reasserted themselves (even in his time) as owners of the soil, the old Norman families having merged their names in those of the Welsh, or " extinguished themselves in heiresses," or sold their lands, so that the principal landowners in 1698 bore Welsh surnames.

The following (the introduction of which may be forgiven, as Jones has not quoted it), is a fair specimen of his style, though it is rather involved : — " Hugh Havard was 4 times Baylis and twice Alderman of Brecon. This man began to write a book of pedigrees about January, 1580, and not ended until about 1600. He tells us that in the year 1590, there was no rain from Easter till All Saints, and that on ioth December following began a hard frost and snow, which continued till 25 March, 1591, on which day there happened with the thaw such a tempest of Raine as occasioned such Fluds, that the like was not known since the time of Noah, which carried away all stone bridges and great mills, and the same year all manner of Beasts died for want of fodder. That year our Lady was upon Good Friday. The Havards have for sometime been the most landed and florishing family of the County and older in this Parish (St. John's, Brecon,) than any other family whatsoever, tho' now for their offences against God and their neighbours brought down to nothing.

Having once to the Honour of God builded a suptious Chapell adjoined to the Priory Church, which yet retains their name, and is called Capell Havardiad, where I conjecture they ordained a priest to pray for their souls for ever, and were most of them buried, but now the good reformers have reformed this Chapell almost to the ground, as they have not only this worthy Family, but almost all the noble Families of the kingdom out of their estates, (and almost all their gravestones thrown out or broke to pieces) for their great negligence in promoting these abuses." There is yet another unrecorded paragraph by Hugh Thomas, which no lover of Brecon would wish to be omitted : — Brecon is well stored with wood and water and fish especially trout, ye best and ye most in ye kingdom are taken in Uske river, no better in all Wales, having abundance of fine springs and purling streams besides the rivers Uske, Honddu &c. &c. which makes the country most pleasant and healthy, inso much that it wants nothing that can make a man happy, and from ye top of our Hills seeing ye most pleasantest Landskips in nature, having at one view the prospect of hills, valleys, wood and water.