Reality versus Romance in South Central Africa. An account of a journey across the Continent ... With ... illustrations, etc

Preface

. THE author of this narrative of African exploration has been governed by two considerations only in his work: first, the obtaining of absolutely correct information concerning that portion of the " Dark Con tinent " which was the field of his investigation ; second, the presentation of that knowledge in these pages with rigid adherence to the truth. In every instance where disputed questions, whether commercial, political, or re ligious, are touched upon, he has endeavored to verify his statements by quoting from the writings or sayings of men well known to the reading world. Entirely inde pendent of all denominational, political, or party influences, with no interests to conciliate or ends to serve beyond the acquisition of indubitable facts that would be of value to the world, he has naturally reached results in some regards conflicting with representations made by certain preceding travelers, who have either been less painstaking in the attainment of precise knowledge or — for various reasons — more unable or disinclined to make known, with accuracy, what they

PREFACE.

. 6 had learned. It is not his province or desire to criti cise either the methods or motives of others, but he is morally convinced that where the results of his obser vations differ from the conclusions at which they have arrived, he is right. Fitting out his expedition himself, indebted to no government, commercial company, or society for its equipment, and responsible to no one but himself for its course or control, he was altogether untrammeled in his work, free from time limitations, and at full liberty to tell the truth, as he saw it. Those advan tages but few African explorers have, it must be ad mitted, hitherto enjoyed. During a period of twenty months he crossed South Central Africa, traveling four thousand five hundred miles mostly on foot, and alone so far as a white com panion is concerned — passing through numerous hostile and savage tribes, traversing areas hitherto reported too pestilential for exploration, surmounting natural obstacles which have been represented as insurmount able, and penetrating regions where no white man had ever gone before.

In all that long journey he never once found himself prompted to fire a shot in anger, or compelled to do so in self-defense against a human ene my ; while he can say what perhaps no other man who has crossed Africa can— that of the many native carri ers who traveled with him he did not lose one by death. He went among the fiercest tribes, not as a conqueror

PREFACE.

. 7 and master, but as a friend, and seeking to leave a trail behind him not of blood and hate, but of peace and good-will. Inspired in the inception of his undertaking by a belief that black men from Jamaica, by reason of their more ready adaptability to climatic conditions and sup posable racial sympathy, could be advantageously em ployed for the Christianization and civilization of the African savage tribes, he took the only practical means for conclusively determining the probable practicability of the design, by thoroughly informing himself upon the conditions under which they would have to live and labor. This he could only do by personal experience, for the assumedly authoritative reports of precedent travelers were much too contradictory of one another upon important matters, too meager in essential details, and too restricted in their field of exploration, to be accepted as information.

In pursuance of his purpose he not only made a careful study of the native tribes in the vast belt selected by him for exploration, but critically investigated the resources of the countiy, its availability for develop ment, and the obstacles — where any existed — in the way of its reclamation from savagery. He saw with the eyes of the agriculturist, the geolo gist, the naturalist, the hunter, the trader, and the physician, as well as those of the missionary, subordinating all personal bias and preconceptions to an impartial

PREFACE.

. effort at collecting correct data about everything, and under all circumstances. Hence, while we know there is an age of fable in the history of all early explorations in remote and unknown lands, it must recede before increasing light and the growing desire on the part of every honest man to know the business-like truth. The result of the author's investigations cannot but be of value to all who for any reason desire to know South Central Africa as it is. Jamaica, West Indies, October, 1893. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. From London To Catambella

PAGE Early promptings. — Jamaica. — White men in the tropics. — Purposes of the expedition. — Hearty support. — Departure for Africa. — Lisbon Harbor. — "Stuck fast." — The detective camera. — The Portuguese. — On board the "Cazengo." — Rebels. — St. Thyago. — Barren rock. — St. Thome. — Kabinda. — St. Paul de Loanda. — Bishop Taylor's Mission. — Self-supporting missions. — Circumstances alter cases. — The Liberian Mission. — Pigeon English. — A quidpro quo. — Stowing coal. — Arrival at Benguela. — An evil climate. — Adobe. — Catambella. — Delays. — The railway. — Native trade. — Slave caravans. — Bad sanitation 17

Chapter II. From Catambella To Kwanjululu

Toward the rising sun. — A waterless country. — A cold night. — Native foot-tracks. — The Esupwa Pass. — Bad water. — In the Cisangi country. — An outbreak in camp. — Foraging. — Extremes of temperature. — Lost in the forest. — In a game-pit. — Signals of distress. — Safe in camp. — On the great plateau. — Slave shackles. — Native graves. — In dangers oft. — The river Keve. — Utalama. — Indiscretion. — An untimely end. — Bailundu. — Cilumi. — The American mission. — Ekwikwi interviewed. — Trial for witchcraft. — Preparing for war. — Social laws. — Domestic relationships. — Farewell to Cilumi. — Artificial beehives. — Carriers. — Arrival at Kwanjululu 3G CONTENTS.

Chapter III. Kwanjululu And Komondongo

PAGE An English mission. — The illusion dispelled. — Garanganze. — Five years' work. — Their own superstition best. — Echoes of Service. — Veg- * etable products. — Visit to Komondongo. — The late war. — Cause of the rupture. — The peacemaker. — Burning villages. — Capture of Chindunduma. — The mission station. — Adversities. — Chronic bummers. — Mush and beans. — Courting privations 55

Chapter IV. From Cisamba To Kutunda

Decide to change my route. — Cisamba. — Collecting carriers. — A surgical operation. — White man's fetich. — Strange comestibles.* — Lu-ra-lu-ra-lu. — Native obsequies. — Ocimbombo. — Bacchanalian carousals. — "On show" at Kapoko. — The cornet scare. — "Putting on side." — Sanambello. — Court speeches. — "A nation of the unemployed." — Reflections. — Trouble ahead. — A lucky shot. — Prescribing for the sick. — Fourteen days' delay. — Rumors of war. — Native idiosyncrasies.— By order of the "doctors." — Agricultural prospects. — A quiet week. — White ants. — Kundundu. — Desertions. — A kind-hearted chief 67

Chapter V. Among The Ganguellians

My caravan complete. — Face to face with a lion. — A thunderstorm. — Crossing the Kukema. — Nothing for dinner. — A grand concert. — A promising field. — Petty rulers. — Namby-pamby. — Lady missionaries. — Trained nurses. — A wild chief. — Ganguellians. — Hairdressing extraordinary. — Fetich charms. — A fine country. — Iron-smelting. — Palavers and pigs. — The Kwanza River. — A wrinkle in river-crossing. — Native dread of Europeans. — A carved stockade. — A strange phenomenon. — Fever in the camp. — Limping into camp. — In the wilderness. — Rubber regions. — The honey-bird. — Picturesque huts CONTENTS. 11

Chapter VI. From Vowelutwi-onjamba To The Hunter's Paradise

PAGE Five hundred natives in our camp. — Daily menu. — Scarcity of food. — Herds of buffalo. — The ombanda-horn. — Soldier ants. — Hostile natives. — Peace by stratagem. — A magnanimous promise. — In puris naturulibus. — Caterpillar stew. — Making an impression. — A wholesome awe. — Down with fever. — Extemporized mortars. — A dark outlook.— Carriers on strike. — A complimentary dance. — Rogues all of them. — Nurse and cook by turns. — Swamp villages. — Fail to control the elements. — Exorcising the spirits. — Struggles in the marshes. — Sparsity of villages. — Game in abundance. — Charged by a buffalo. — Has the Bihean a god? — Our rain-maker. — Diviners. — Medicine-men. — Meat and to spare. — A hunter's paradise 109

Chapter VII. Arrival In The Barotse Valley

Mutiny in camp.— Barotse natives. — Milk for the first time. — The Zambesi at last. — Reception by King Lewanika.* — " Yo sho, yo sho, yo sho!" — Salutations. — The royal residence. — "Fail not, at your peril ! " — Barotse huts. — A native service. — Lewanika's ambition. — Building the Nalikwanda. — Paying off carriers. — Presented with an ox. — Dining with royalty. — The burden of his heart. — British Protectorate. — Thieves and robbers. — Monsieur Coillard's letter. — The British South African Company. — Concession-hunting. — An emphatic protest. — A letter from King Lewanika 134 CHAPTER VHI. LIFE IN THE BAROTSE VALLEY. The heroic Frenchman. — A model mission station. — Blighted plans. — A touching story. — Thrilling tales. — Truth first. — Missionary tidings. — Koreans. — Amazing statements. — Futile hopes. — Primitive Methodist party. — Home committees. — Virtually a prisoner. — Marotsi handicrafts. — In the lekhothla. — "A sound of revelry by night." — A perpetual vapor-bath. — A bloodthirsty queen. — Display of fireworks.

CONTENTS. PAGE — New Year's Day. — First native wedding on the Zambesi. — Amused skepticism. — Ladies take a back seat. — Magic-lantern exhibition. — ■ Silence reigns. — The Mashukulumbwe. — Taking their measure 152

Chapter IX. From Sefula To Sesheke

The Sefula Canal. — Haste peculiar to white men. — To be thrown to the crocodiles. — Preparing for the river journey. — Parting injunctions. —A cloud of voracious mosquitoes.* — Waist-deep in the swamp. — Afloat on the Zambesi. — Ancestral worship. — An interview with Makwai. — The omande shell. — The great fish-eagle. — Camped at Senanga. — More portentous game. — Memories of the Georgian Bay. — Charming surroundings. — A pleasure trip. — In danger of an upset. — Dragging canoes overland. — Lion stories. — The Falls of Gonya. — Beautiful cascades. — Veldt schoons. — In the rapids. — The aromatic mopani. — A fruitless chase. — A gorgeous sunset. — The graceful zebra 177

Chapter X. From Sesheke To Bamangwato

At Sesheke. — Working under difficulties. — Indifference of the natives. — Pay for "working book." — Not quite their equal. — Capabilities of the soil. — Monsieur Goy's letter. — Draining and irrigation. — Canoes capsized. — Kazungula. — The French mission. — Isolation and loneliness. — Premonitions of trouble.— Wholesale desertions. — Lost bearings.— Amonopolist.— Tropical scenery.— Victoria Falls.— For hours we stand gazing.— The great fissure— Baboons.— Batokaland.— Return to Kazungula. — Preparations for crossing the desert. — The tsetse-fly belt.— Pandamatenka.— Rough road.— A broken dessel-boom.— A night among lions.— Program of a day.— No water. — Thirst, thirst, thirst !— Bushmen 198

Chapter XI. From Palachwe To Fort Victoria

Palachwe.— A terrible epidemic— Malaria.— Semi-civilization.— Physically losing ground.— Khama and his country.— Total prohibition. CONTENTS. 13 PAGE — The Mangwato as a race. — Makalakas. — Darker phases of African life. — McKenzie and Hepburn. — The Matebele. — On the trek again. — My West Indians return. — A monotonous landscape. — Fort Mac loutsie. — Hyenas and jackals. — Multum in pan-o. — Tuli township. — " Show your passport." — A licensed prospector. — Mealies and pump kins. — Lobengula's impis. — Matipi's kraal. — Whiskey shops. — Syn dicates "dead broke." — White men's graves. — "Providential Pass." — A tragic story. — Zimbabwe. — An ancient stronghold. — Fort Victoria. — A hundred miles of sand 228 CHAPTER XH. FROM FORT VICTORIA TO INYAMACAMBE. Fort Charter. — A deserted village. — Chartered companies. — Salisbury at last ! — The wealth of Mashonaland. — A vegetable market. — The argument of the upper ten. — British influence. — Missions in Mashonaland. — A lion-hunt. — The parson scores heavily. — By Tete or Sena, which? — Fantastic kopjies. — Termite mounds. — A narrow escape. — Policemen. — "Tie him up till morning." — TJmtali. — Massikassi. — Among the Portuguese. — A friend in need. — War in the Humbi country. — Bartering with the natives for food. — Abandoned wagons. — A primitive dug-out. — Courteous natives. — Wading the Kulumadzi. — Gorongoza Mountain. — Digging for water. — Spontaneous combustion. — Baobabs. — Lovely sweet oranges 259 CHAPTER Xm.

FROM SENA TO BLANTYRE. River craft. — On the Shire\ — The Wissmann expedition. — Landed at Chiromo. — Trouble with Her Majesty's customs. — " What is to-day? " — The chief of Mbewe. — A defenseless position. — Blantyre. — Might is right. — Misguided men. — Boycotted. — Wild hallucinations. — * Courting a martyr's death. — Dr. Ellinwood speaks. — Abortive asceticism. — Faith cure. — Cheap missionaries. — Poor economy. — A foreign tramp CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV. FROM NYASA TO CHINDE.

PAGE Bush fires. — A strong current and head wind. — Myriads of red ants. — Tampans. — On the back of a hippo. — Lake Nyasa. — Livingstonia. — A storm on the lake. — Anchored at Bandawe. — The Free Church Mission. — "Black ivory." — " Longed to enslave them." — Not soliciting commiseration. — Ungrateful. — Lip "improvers." — " Muavi " ordeal. — Fertile hills of Angoniland. — Liberty of conscience. — Baobab Island. — A choral service. — Return to Blantyre.— Bound for Chinde. — The Indian Ocean 305

CHAPTER XV.

A RETROSPECT. A summary. — Jamaicans. — Missionaries wanted. — French mission stands alone. — Testimony in favor of West Indian assistants. — Unoccupied fields. — Sparse population. — Interpreters. — Medical missions. — Extravagant waste of ability. — Native doctors. — Conclusion. 325

Appendix

. Equipment. — Tents versus huts. — Clothing. — Firearms. — Barter goods. ■ — Commissariat. — Medicine. — Tabloids. — Fever. — Insomnia. — Water. — Coolers. — Light. — Photography ILLUSTRATIONS.* Frontispiece. Catambella Facing page 22 Olombingo Rock Mountains 28 Stockaded Village, Cisamba 34 Camp at Cisamba 39 Bihean Pombieros (Headmen) 45 Building Mission House, Cisamba 50 Native Women, Cisamba 56 Women Pounding Corn 61 Ganguellian Village 66 Group of Ganguellians 72 Crossing the Quitu 78 Expedition at Kangamba 86 Lewanika Holding Court 94 Marotsi Salutations 103 Monsieur Coillard and Native Boys 109 Lewanika in War Dress 114 Mission Station, Sefula 121 Madame Coillard's Grave 127 Primitive Methodist Party 134 Lewanika's Band 140 Wild Batoka Warriors 146 Macwai, Queen of Barotse, and Slave-girls 151 Marotsi Pastimes 156 Native Wedding, Sefula 162 * These illustrations are covered by copyright.

All rights reserved. ILLUSTRATIONS. Mashukulumbwe Natives Facing page 167 On the Zambesi 172 Falls of Gonya I76 Horseshoe Falls of Gonya 181 Zambesi Boatmen 187 Mission Station, Sesheke 193 KLazungula Mission Station 199 Victoria Falls (Western Cataract) 205 Victoria Falls (Near the Center) 210 Abrupt Bend and Profile Cliff, Zambesi 216 Pandamatenka 220 Khama, Chief of Bamangwato 226 Water-cart — Mangwato 234 Crossing the Lundi 240 Zimbabwe Ruins 247 Bushmen's Drawings 253 Pug-mill for Brickmaking, Blantyre 260 Angoni Slave Warriors 269 Group of Yaos (Shire Highlands) 276 Livingstonia 284 Graves at Livingstonia 290 Mission Station, Bandawe 298 Native Women, Bandawe 304 Native Women, Likoma 310 Nyasa Fleet, Likoma 315 Katunga (Livingstone's Old Servant) and his Wives IN SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA.

Chapter I. From London To Catambella

Early promptings. — Jamaica. — White men in the tropics. — Purposes of the expedition. — Hearty support. — Departure for Africa. — Lisbon Harbor. — " Stuck fast." — The detective camera. — The Portuguese. — On board the " Cazengo." — Rebels. — St. Thyago. — Barren rock. — St. Thome. — Kabinda. — St. Paul de Loanda. — Bishop Taylor's Mission. — Self-supporting missions. — Circumstances alter cases. — The Liberian Mission. — Pigeon English. — A quid pro quo. — Stowing coal. — Arrival at Benguela. — An evil climate. — Adobe. — Catambella. — Delays. — The railway. — Native trade. — Slave caravans. — Bad sanitation. IN early boyhood a deep interest was created in my mind regarding Africa and its people by reading the life and travels of Robert Moffat. Later on the writings of Dr. Livingstone, the story of his lonely and tragic death, and witnessing his funeral in 1874, added fresh stimulus to my purpose of visiting some day the " Dark Continent."

I wished to see for myself the actual condition of the African, that I might be the better qualified to plead his cause among English speaking people, who have, particularly during this century, proven themselves above all other nations the pioneers of civilization, Christianity, and humane government. Ill-health debarred me from the immediate realiza tion of my hopes, and symptoms of pulmonary trouble compelled me, toward the end of 1874, to seek a more genial climate. This I found in Jamaica, West Indies, Avhere the bulk of the population, though not African, are at least of African descent, and there I lived and labored at my profession until 1890. My physical strength being then completely restored, the work under my charge firmly established and con ducted by a competent staff of assistants, and the long cherished desire to travel in no way abated, I felt that the time had come when I could leave my work for a year or two.

Meantime, accounts were frequently being received from Central Africa of the privations, hardships,, and sufferings of those who were endeavoring to lead the van of light and knowledge into the dark interior — obtaining* little or no aid or sympathy from the natives, for whose benefit they had risked so much. Treading the clay, cutting the sticks and grass, and with their own hands building the humble abodes that are to be their homes — white men cannot, in the tropics, do this with impunity and live. The painful fact is all too conclusive from the fearful death-rate among those who have attempted it on the Congo, the West Coast, and elsewhere. On looking around among the young men of Jamaica connected with our mission, I was strongly impressed with the idea that, having been brought up and trained amid surroundings the most favorable to fitting them PURPOSE OF EXPEDITION. 19 for usefulness in their fatherland, as mechanics, builders, and planters, by such services (could their natural lack of " stick-at-it-iveness " and backbone be over come) they might relieve the white man of manual toil, permitting him to devote his time to the translation and teaching of the native languages.

To put this scheme to the test was now my intention, and although a dark enough program was presented of the probable dangers to be encountered, in the form of malarial climates, deadly fevers, wild beasts, fatigue, hunger, and thirst, volunteers to accompany me were not lacking, of whom I accepted six likely young fellows. On the 11th of February, 1891, I sailed for Eng land, whence, as also from Scotland, the United States, and Canada, I received the heartiest support and finan cial aid toward the outfits and passages of the colored men ; but I preferred to defray my own expenses. The next few weeks were spent mostly in London, selecting and purchasing the varied paraphernalia and equipment required for camp life in a "foodless and shopless land." Further on I will enumerate, for the information of those who may intend to travel through similar regions, not so much of what articles my outfit consisted, but rather a list of those things actual ex perience proved to be the most useful.

Very many accessories are recommended by outfitters because other travelers have included them in their kits, which on the march are found to be not only useless, but burdensome, and at last must be left behind. Nor are the counsels of those in the field always infallible, as many of them settle down within easy access of the coast and know but little of the requirements for long journeys through the interior. A good rule to follow is to take nothing that one can possibly do without, as the carrier difficulty increases year by year, and the progress of a caravan is often in inverse ratio to the amount of its baggage. "Picnic baskets," "jimcrack notions," and " multum in parvo" must give place to the more important well-chosen stores of food, medicines, and medical comforts, on which the health and even the life of the European will in a great measure depend.

Preparations completed, the 17th of April found the Jamaica men and myself at Waterloo Station, sur rounded by a host of kind friends who had come to bid us Godspeed and a final farewell. A few hours more brought us alongside the steamship " Trojan," as she lay in Southampton docks. Amid the bustle and confusion of embarking the ship's bell rings — the signal that the time for departure has arrived. The gangway is drawn up, the hawsers slipped, and the vessel stands out to sea. Benguela, on the west coast of Africa, is our destination by water. And why Benguela? Chiefly be cause it has the reputation of affording facilities for obtaining carriers, slave routes for the interior starting from that point. The short run to Lisbon gave no experience worthy of note. A good ship, pleasant company, and a smooth sea — this told, the rest of our life on board a mail steamer can easily be imagined by any one who has crossed the Atlantic ; and in these days, who has not ?

On the 20th we enter the mouth of the Tagus— Lisbon Harbor. A charming view of the city presents THE PORTUGUESE. 21 itself as we steam up the river. The weather is all that could be desired, fresh but balmy; air, a delightful change from the bleak winds and drizzling rains we left in Southampton. Mile after mile the city unfolds before us — a grand panorama of splendid buildings, covering the long range of hills on which it is built, rising rank upon rank, tier upon tier, from the water's edge to the highest summits, with a sky overhead beautifully clear and blue. Anything more attractive or more picturesque I have never seen, in any country. Here we must land and tranship to a Portuguese steamer, as the " Trojan " does not call at West Coast ports; and we are transferred to the cranky-looking craft of a tender that is to take us ashore.

Three hours are spent in this tub, for the tide is low and she gets stuck fast in the mud. Some of the passengers suggest chartering a couple of the fishermen's punts that are pulling past us ; but this idea is voted down as undig nified, and we meekly wait for the turn of the tide. At last we reach the landing-stage — a flight of stone steps leading up to the magnificent square of Terreiro do paco, with its grand Arco da Rua Agusta, an eques trian statue of King Joseph I. in the center. Stepping ashore, detective camera in hand, hoping to get some snap shots on objects of interest, a diminutive customs officer demands to know what the box con tains; but my limited knowledge of Portuguese fails to convince him that I have nothing in it to peddle, when it occurrs to me to show him the reflection of King Joseph on the "finder."

This is conclusive, and I pass on to the center of the city. The scene changes. Fewer adjectives will satisfy us now than when describing Lisbon from the steamer's deck. Surely distance lent enchantment to the view: the otherwise fine edifices are ill-kept and dirty, with a general out-at-elbows look, matching the majority of the inhabitants. But what a lot of little people ! A stay of several days in this the Portuguese capital did not remove our first impression, that, if for nothing else, it is at least remarkable for its undersized citizens. But we must not remark on this, as already we see their eyes flash and fists clenched menacingly when the word " English " is whispered in their presence. The manner of dress is distinctly Spanish, and of a type — especially among the working classes — made familiar to us by Clark's cotton-reel pictures of the bull fight.

Gay and loud colors predominate every where, and on everything. Our steamer, the " Cazengo," in which we hope to sail for Benguela, is now in the rh er, and we embark, only to learn, however, that the government has ordered her detention for three days Veyond the advertised date of sailing, as a number of political prisoners who have been concerned in the late revolutionary riots in Oporto are to be sent down to the West Coast. Much against our will, we must yield to the delay. The time passes, and on the fourth day we observe barges being tugged toward us crowded with soldiers, who with fixed bayonets surround the prisoners — a motley crew. The former look like a mixture of the veriest riff-raff of half a dozen different companies of militia — a perfect medley of shapes and sizes : round shoulders, bow legs, and unwashed ; scarcely a man standing five CATAMBELLA ST. THY AGO. 23 feet eight among them.

The majority were smoking cigarettes as they came alongside. The prisoners seemed jolly enough, hob-nobbing with the " Soldados," shaking hands and embracing all round as they parted ; while several had brought their man dolins and guitars, with which to wile away the tedium of the years they anticipated spending in exile. After a great deal of fuss and no little hilarity, they are got on board, about a hundred in all; and now that they feel themselves free, some brass and reed instruments are produced, and we are regaled with selections of republican music. The next port of call, St. Thyago, we reach in six days. Still no extraordinary incidents to relate; the usual monotonous round of eating, reading, talking, and sleeping goes on, with an occasional game of quoits. It may be of interest to epicures if we men tion of what the cuisine a la Portuguese consists.

The dinner menu permits of no variation, but may be summed up thus : Seven courses of meat or fowl ; sweets, dessert, and coffee, with almost total absti nence from vegetables of any kind. The light table wine "Vinho tinto" is supplied ad lib., but, to the credit of the Portuguese, it must be acknowledged that they are certainly a temperate people as compared with those of more northern climes, for not once during the voyage did we see spirits used, nor any one the least inebriated. The small island of St. Thyago belongs to Portugal, and, judging from its appearance, we would say it is not likely to be coveted by any other nation. The town is built on an eminence some two hundred feet above sea-level ; it has a square and three streets running parallel with one another, and a population of about three thousand.

How they live is a mystery, for both hill and plain present a dreary expanse of bar ren rock and sand, destitute of even a trace of vegetation, with the exception of here and there a hollow where a few parched-looking cocoanut palms struggle for existence. We visit the marketplace, expecting that samples of whatever the island produces will be seen there. And it is so: a few baskets of beans, some tobacco, and scores of beggars, all extending their dirty hands at once as soon as we apj:>ear within the gates. The people are mostly African, of the ordinary type ; a few are Portuguese ; and there are three Englishmen, em ployees of the Cable Company. On the 8th of May we arrive at St. Thome, a beautiful island, also a Portuguese possession. The town resembles somewhat parts on the north side of Ja maica.

Here, unlike St. Thyago, the scenery is very rich ; the hills are clad to the top with luxuriant ver dure, cocoanut and date palms, bread-fruit and avocada pears, puapuas and bananas. This is accounted for probably by the fact that the island is situated within the rain belt — its southern end being on the equator. We called at Kabinda on the 11th, where we took on forty-two natives to work cargo. This was our first glimpse of the African mainland, which is here very flat and uninteresting, with nothing tropical in its appearance. Next day we reached St. Paul de Loanda, the chief of the Portuguese settlements on the West Coast. We ST. PAUL DE LOANDA. 25 had a tedious delay here of several days, on account of the many packages to be slowly transferred to lighters, and as slowly towed ashore.

No one is in a hurry. Time seems to be of no value to these people. They reverse the old adage and "never do to-day what can be put off till to-morrow." The city is said to have a population of six thousand, made up of about four hundred Portuguese, the rest negroes. Livingstone arrived here with his six Makalolo in May, 1854, and spent long weeks on a sick-bed at the house of his friend, the British commissioner for the Suppression of the Slave Trade. He traveled from Kurmuan, through the Kalahari Desert with its shade less glare, the deep gloom of forests, and drenching rains, contracting an intermittent fever that almost ended his earthly career ere he reached Loanda — as he said, a " bag of bones." The buildings look as if they were intended to resist bombardment, so heavy and bare are they, with but few piazzas or porticos to relieve the prison-like walls.