The Long White Mountain; or, a journey in Manchuria ... with illustrations and a map

Front matter

THE LONG WHITE MOUNTAIN PRINTED BY STOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STItEET SQUARE LOXDOif THE DRAGON PRINCE'S POOL ON THE SUMMIT OF THE LONG WHITE MOUNTAIN AFTER A SKETCH BY LIEUT F E -YQUNGHUSBAND . THE LONG WHITE MOUNTAIN OE A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA WITH SOME ACCOUNT OP THE HISTORY, PEOPLE, ADMINISTRATION AND RELIGION OF THAT COUNTRY BY H. E. M. JAMES OF HER MAJESTY'S BOMBAY CIVIL SERVICE WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP LONDON LONGMANS, GEEEN, AND CO. AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 16,h STREET 1888 All rights reserved HERBERT JAMES ALLEN, Esq., F.R.G.S. H. B. M. CONSUL Al' NEWCHWANQ THE REV. JOHN ROSS 01* MOUKDEN AND M. l'ABBE BAGUIT OF PA-YEN-SHU-SHU IN MY COMPANIONS' NAME AND MY OWN I DEDICATE THIS BOOK AS A TOKEN OP KIND EEGAKD Christmas

Preface

. The journey which we made through Manchuria last year would not warrant the production of a new book of travels, solely on the ground of the variety of its incidents or the value of its geographical results. But Manchuria possesses many points of special interest. From a valley on the outskirts of the Long White Mountains there sprang a petty Tartar chieftain, nearly three hundred years ago, who challenged the power of China, and whose sons, after a determined struggle, conquered the Celestial Empire and placed on the throne the present dynasty. Kussia, in the years 1858 and 1860, lopped off the Amur and part of the Primorsk, or Maritime province, leaving only the present Man churia between the Muscovite and the capital of China. As the scene of a great conflict in the past, for supre macy over Eastern Asia, and perhaps of a still greater in the future, Manchuria merits alike the attention of historical students and contemporary statesmen.

More over, the rapid rise of the little Manchu nation to a pinnacle that enabled it to impose an outward and THE LONG WHITE MOUNTAIN visible badge of humiliation upon the innumerable millions of its conquered enemies, followed by its equally rapid transformation, until its institutions, language, and even its national entity, became ab sorbed in those of the subject race, is one of the most striking incidents in Asiatic history. To the economist and administrator the province is full of interest ; its fertility, its resources in gold, iron, coal, timber, and other products, and the vast numbers of colonists which these have attracted, make it a con spicuously progressive country, although suffering from an endemic pest of brigandage, from a corrupt staff of officials, and hampered by many obstacles needlessly put in the way of trade and of the accumulation of wealth.

For the ethnologist, Manchuria has attractions arising from the variety of peoples found within her limits— Eussians and Chinese, Mongols and Manchus, Tungusians and Coreans. To the military inquirer, she reveals the spectacle of officers seizing with one hand the latest scientific implements of war, and refusing to drop from the other the oldest and most obsolete— the gingall and the Tartar bow and arrow. The student of comparative religion and the earnest Christian believer may both learn much from Manchuria, partly because her existing religion is a mixture of superstitions widely separated in origin, and partly because two missionary bodies, at opposite poles of the Christain faith, have successfully begun the task of replacing heathenism by the knowledge of Christ. Finally, the geography of Manchuria is so little known to Europeans that

PREFACE.

IX in a map issued not so very long ago by the Royal Geographical Society, a chain of snowy peaks, 10,000 to 1__,000 feet high, was inserted, which has been found to be purely imaginary. For these reasons I have thought it worth while to put into a conuected form a sketch of Manchuria, its history, its people, its administration, and its religion, followed by an ac count of our journey through the country, including the ascent of the Long White Mountain. This mountain has given rise to many myths during the last three thousand years, but to none more contrary to fact than that which has created a whole range of peaks covered with eternal snow. My work will, at any rate, serve as a foundation on which others, better informed, may build hereafter. The records of an Oriental country scarcely ever travel beyond the wars and achievements of its successive rulers.

A great part of my historical sketch is, therefore, necessarily confined to the deeds of the early Manchus ; but I have endeavoured to throw light upon the causes which raised them from mere raiders, like Mahrattas in quest of tribute, to administrators and sovereigns far greater than Scindiah or Holkar. In tracing the history of the existing dynasty down to the reign of the present Emperor Kuang Hsti, I have treated of the wars with England and their causes at greater length than I originally intended ; but, although these wars are of recent date, so much misapprehension prevails concerning them that a restatement of the facts seems advisable. For a different reason, my readers X will be glad to hear again of General Gordon's cam paigns, which probably saved the Manchu dynasty from extinction.

They will also learn, both from the history and the wood-cut, that the doubts which the Abbe Larrieu has recently thrown upon an old friend, the Great Wall of China, are without foundation, at any rate as far as a portion extending three hundred miles inland from the sea is concerned ; for that distance at least the Wall is really a substantial fortification, which has answered, and may answer again, the purpose for which it was built. I have looked at the administration of Manchuria through Indian spectacles, so that the chapter upon that subject and upon religious beliefs may not, I fear, prove very interesting to the general reader. My views, too, upon opium will, I dare say, be unpopular, excepting amongst those who are really acquainted with the subject. I would recommend, therefore, any person who takes up the book solely from an in terest in our travel or exploration to omit the first six chapters.

And I would especially include in this ad vice the whole learned body of sinologues. In placing before the public a popular sketch of a Chinese pro vince, it is necessary to describe various things which are familiar to foreigners in China, and to students of Chinese literature. Should, however, any Chinese scholar condescend to read this work, I hope he will be ' a little blind ' to its errors ; for, although I have spared no effort to ensure accuracy, an Anglo-

PREFACE.

XI Indian writing upon China is sure to drop into some pitfall. Those who are interested in British trade with China may, perhaps, find some food for reflection in the statistics I give in Chapter V., which seem to indicate possibilities of an extended commerce with Manchuria. I must acknowledge a great debt of gratitude to the Rev. John Ross, of Moukden, whose historical works are a mine of information for writers like myself. I have also to thank Mr. Ross for valuable MS. notes on different subjects, and for most of the illustrations. Much information has been obtained from the ' Chinese Repository,' an article in which contains a comparison between the Chinese and Manchu languages, from the ' China Review,' the ' Chinese Recorder,' ' Notes and Queries on China and Japan,' several excellent Consular Reports by Messrs. Meadows, Adkins, and Gardner, and from the ' Annales de la Propagation de la Foi.' M. Cordier's ' Bibliotheca Sinica ' and Mr. Demetrius Boulger's ' History of China ' have also proved most useful.

The Jesuit narratives, and especially those of Bishop Palafox y Mendoza and Pere Martini, throw a flood of light upon the conquest of China by the Manchus. A valuable paper by the Rev. J. Maclntyre is referred to in the body of the work. The value to students of Mr. Ho worth's great ' History of the Mongols ' is marred by want of an index. A work called 'Journeys in North China,' by the Rev. Mr. Williamson, of Shanghai, includes an account of several expeditions to different parts of Manchuria ; and a paper by Mr. E. Delmar Morgan, F.R.G.S., in the Royal Geographical Society's 'Proceedings' for 1872, describes a journey made in 1870, by the Archi mandrite Palladius, chief of the Russian mission in China, from Peking by way of Moukden and Kirin to Blagovaschensk, on the Amur. Both works are illus trated by good maps, which we found very useful.

I must also acknowledge the kind permission given me by Mr. Fleming, C.B., to use two of the illustrations from his work, 'A Ride on Horseback through Chinese Tartary,' and thank Mr. E. G. Ravenstein, author of ' The Russians on the Amoor,' for the translation of two letters from the ' Annales de la Propagation de la Foi.' My special gratitude is due to Mr. W. C. Hillier, Chinese Secretary to Her Majesty's Legation at Peking, for his kindness in correcting the spelling of Chinese names and for other assistance. The spelling has in deed been a trial ; but Indian experience taught me the necessity of following a proper scientific system, and, so far as one ignorant of Chinese could do so, from the first I endeavoured to follow that of Sir Thomas Wade. This system requires many diacritical marks, which are distasteful to the ordinary reader's eye ; while, therefore, I have taken care to insert them on intro ducing a word for the first time, they will sometimes be found omitted in cases of repetition, especially if the name is a well-known one, as KanAii or Kienluno* I must admit also a want of principle in transliterating

PREFACE.

XIII polysyllabic names, the component parts being some times separated by hyphens, and sometimes joined together. But to Chinese scholars such names will present no difficulty, and to an ordinary reader a compact is pleasanter than a straggling name. The characters on the right-hand side of the cover are Manchu, and those on the left Chinese. They represent Ch'ang-pai-shan, or the Long White Mountain ; Sung-hua Chiang, or the famous river Sungari ; Mouk den, or Shen-yang, the capital of Manchuria ; and, lastly, Kirin and Hei-lung Chiang, the central and northern provinces of Manchuria. The map, which I owe to the kindness of the Royal Geographical Society, is founded on the latest Russian maps in the Society's possession ; but some places, notably those in the newly settled tracts on the Corean border and the Mongol frontier, have been located by myself from a Chinese map.

The situations in such cases can be considered only approximately correct. It is a matter for regret that the observa tions taken by Mr. Younghusband could not be worked out in time for the final correction of the map. Mr. Younghusband displayed untiring perseverance, and it needed no ordinary resolution to stand outside at nAhts, with a bitter wind blowing, and the thermometer below zero, waiting till a star rose to its proper altitude. He also took compass observations to fix the position of the hills and rivers as we passed alone. But his love of adventure induced him to ex tend his travels into Western China and Turkestan, and his calculations had to stand over. It is his pencil, however, that has enabled my readers to see in the frontispiece the summit of the real ' Long White Mountain.' H. E. M. J. Christmas, 1887. PAslJ- 1 CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Introductory

Programme of the voyage — "We reach Yingtzu or Newchwang — Position of Manchuria — Its houndaries — Its three provinces — Extent of the country — Colonisation by Chinese — Manchuria a highland country — Mountains — Rivers — Barriers for transit-dues — Different names for the same place — Survey by the Jesuits — Description of towns — Walls of towns — Military stations — Plan of towns — Architecture — Yamens — Temples — Pagodas — P'ailous — Pawnshops — Signpost s — Roads — Fertile soil — Crops — Contrast between Indian ryots and Chinese — Varieties of millet — Uses of great millet — Small millet — Good fodder — Golden millet — Other crops — Bean-curd — Bean-oil — Vegetables — Fruits — Timber — Ginseng — Deer-horns — Minerals — Furs — Manufactures — Climate — Difficulties of transport — Telegraphs — Money — Cash — Cumbersome currency — Local notes — Silver shoes — Money-changers — Mint — Passports ....

Chapter II. History

Aborigines of Manchuria — Discussion as to the name Tartar — Origin of the word Manchu — Dynastic titles — Tribes now called Manchus — Personal appearance of Manchus — Savages once inhabiting Manchuria — Ancient dynasties ruling Liao-tung — Dynasties in the north — Bohai — Golden age of Manchuria — Retails — Nu-chens — Mings — Effeteness of the Mings — Nurhachu, the first Manchu — Legend of Li Fokolun and the birth of Aisin-gioro — Discussion as to Odoli — Nikan — Nurhachu slays Nikan — Nurhachu builds Lao-ch'eng — Builds Shing-king — His administration — Challenges the Ming — Defeats the Chinese— Takes Moukden and Liao-yang — Chinese resistance Ma Wen Lung — Chung' Wan — Repulse at Ningyuan — Tai Tsung passes the Great Wall — Shunchih — Li-tzu-ch'eng — Ming Em- PAGH _M peror commits suicide — Letters of San-kuei aud Prince Dorgun — Li-tzii-cb'eng defeated— Manchu dynasty established — Ming princes Prolonged war — Causes of Manchu success — "Wretched condition of China— Manchu army — Conciliatory measures — Popular reforms —Conquest of India compared— End of Wu San-kuei and Dorgun .

CHAPTER IU. history (continued). Shnnchih — Dutch embassy — Kotow — Human sacrifice — Emperor Kanghi — Yungcheng — Eienlung — His cruelty — Defeats the Gliurkas — Receives Earl of Macartney — Chiaching — Lord Amherst's Embassy — Effeminacy of later Emperors — Taokuang — First, war -with England — Its causes — Chinese outrages — Mandarins' support of the opium trade — Lin's oppressive measures — Operations of war — Treaty — Macaulay's speech — Mr. Gladstone's — Hsien-feng — The Taeping rebellion — Successes of the insurgents — Ward's ' Ever-victorious army ' — General Gordon — Second war with England — Yeh — Lord Elgin sent to China — Treachery of Chinese — Summer Palace destroyed — Elgin's treaty — Tungchih — A coup d'etat — Prince Kung — The Empresses — Yunnan rebellion — Kuang Hsii — The Empress-Regent — Prince Ch'un — Li Hung Chang — Reconquest of Sungaria and Kashgar — The Kuldja question — Dispute with the French — Chefoo convention — Recent English treaties with China — Present policy of China — Bad results of Nurhachu's policy in Manchuria — Brigandage — Gang robbery — Suppression of gambling — Corruption of mandarins — Improvement in Manchuria — Poyarkoff explores the Amur — Russian navigation prohibited on the Amur — Expeditions ofthe Russians — Mouravieff — Ignatieff — Russian annexations — Hopes of China and Russia in regard to Manchuria ....... 62

Chapter IV. The People

Population of Manchuria — Small proportion of Manchus Where Manchus are generally found— Explanation of rareness of Manchus — Chinese influence — Two teachers imported — Manclm religion Shamanism— A dress reform- -Women's feet — Official buttons Marriage— Slavery— Privileges of Manchus— Exercises of Manclm youths— Banner-men, their organisation and distribution Abuses — European drill— The Luh-ying army— Arms — Conservatism — Corruption and waste in the army— Chinese language— Manchu language—Chinese garments — Ladies' dresses— Sceptre— Ear gloves —1 lats —Shoes— Dwelling-houses— Inns— K'angs— Paper window- CONTENTS XVII PAGE 107 148 177 panes — Food and drink — Furniture — Coffins— Cemeteries — Polite ness of upper classes — Troublesome curiosity — A disgusting habit — Chinese Mahommedans and their mosques — Corean settlers— Corean costume — Encouragement of Corean settlers — Corean alphabet

Chapter V

administration. Tsung-tu, or Governor-General — Chiang-Ohun, or Military Governors — Business of Governor-General — Boards — High Court — Chinese system replacing Manchu in Feng-t'ien — Grades of officials — District magistrates — Their duties — Description of a court — Civil justice — System in Kirin and Hei-lung-chiang — Inefficiency of Manchu military officers — Headmen of villages — Municipalities — Crime — Treatment of culprits — Cruelty and uncertainty of punishments — Torture * — Civil and military police — Appeals — Extortion — Maudarins underpaid — Land tax — Poll tax — Salt monopoly — Tax on sales — Transit dues — Tax on distilleries — Tribute of furs — Maritime Customs — Imports in 1866 and 1885 compared — The opium trade — Moral aspects of opium — Large growth of opium — Decree against opium — Taxes on opium — Room for more English imports into Manchuria — ' American ' drills — Junk trade — Reforms needed in the administration

Chapter VI. Religion

Extract from Kingsley 's ' Heroes ' — Applicable to the people of Manchuria — Three religious cults — Buddhism — Confucianism — Taoism Collection of gods in a temple of Buddha — Ancestor worship — Neglected temples — Local and tutelary deities — Roadside shrines — Sample of a countryman's prayer — Worship of animals and animal characteristics — A medium — An exorcist — Worship of disease — Other objects of worship — Feng-shui — Rural superstitions — Progress of Christian faith — Roman Catholic missionaries — Verrolles — Venault — De la Bruniere — Boyer — Mortality amongst missionaries — Dubail — Roman Catholic churches— Absence of images — Attitude of priests towards mandarins — Orphanages — Training — Statistics of conversion — English Presbyterian Mission — Irish Presbyterian Mission Scotch Presbyterian Mission — Medical Mission — Medical statistics Refuge for opium-smokers — Valuable work — Meeting-houses Difficulties in mission work — Success — General remarks on missionaries . • • a FAN B 215 247

Chapter VII

yingtzu to moukden and mao-erh-shan. Arrival at Yingtzu— Newchwang— Foreign settlement on the Liao— Audacious thieves— Joined by Fulford — Carts in Manchuria — 'Rattler' — Our servants— Baggage — Money— Rate of discount — Plan of route— Reach Moukden— Chinese inns— Opium-smoking — Inn charges— Insects— Moukden— Tomb of Nurhachu — Tomb of Tai Tsung — Chinese banking transactions — lining mules — Start from Moukden— The valley of the Hwun— Yung-ling— Shingking — Settlers — The scenery — Hsin-min-pu — T'ung-hua-hsien — Chinese horse-dealings — Flooding ofthe Hun-chiang — Three months' rain — Timber rafts — A roadside inn — Picture of the God of Wealth — Botanising — Pheasant shooting — Accident to Fulford— Primitive coal-pits and iron-foundry — Difficulties and accidents on the route — Mao-erh-shan — Garrison — Corean cultivators — Converts — Midges and gadflies — Chinese system of loading mules — ' The lunatic ' mule — System of travel .........

Chapter VIII

ch'ang-pai-shan mountains. Progress up the Yalu Valley impossible — Pack-road to Hun-ch'un — Gold-washers — Fording the T'ang Ho — Camping-out in the forest — A tiger-trap — An obstruction in the road — Difficult situation — • Arrival at the head-quarters of a guild — Admission refused — The midges — An account of the guilds — Legislation — Gathering opium — The Old White Mountain — Fording a mountain torrent — A Manchu fisherman — Fulford meets a bear — Preparations for the sable season — A sable-trap — Deer-trap — Mushrooms — Source of the Sungari — Ascent of the White Mountain — The scenery — Flowers — The lake — The Erh-tao-chiang — The neighbourhood- — Another route to Hun-ch'un — Du Ilalde's account of the White Mountain — The Jesuits' visit — Oumoune — Palladius' account — The Emperor Kienlung's — Pere Amyot's — Botanical results — Birds — Butterflies .

Chapter IX

t'ang-ho-k'ou to kirin. A snake story — Wild and cultivated ginseng — Useful trees — Another flood down the Sungari — Rapacity of Chinese boatmen A fine heronry — Difficulties of the road — The Erh-tao-chiang — Gold-washing— Murder on the highway— Rural theatricals— Kirin — Unpleasant quarters— Vegetables and fruit— Pere Verbiest's account Situation of Kirin— Diagram for averting fires— Filthy market-place CONTENTS XIX I'AOK .310 — Telegraph office — Chang San sent to the coast for supplies — Arsenal — Machinery and arms — Powder-mill — Selecting recruits — Dinner with Mr. Sung — Smart young signaller — Town magistrate — Ficti tious letters of introduction — Temples at Lung Tan Shan — Mahoni medan families at Kirin — Absorption of isolated religious commu nities . 271 nities

Chapter X

kirin to tsitsihar. An obliging banker — Gold ingots — Engage carts — Piece-work v. daily wages — Obstinacy of mules — A bad start — Timber at Chiachan — Wuluk'ai — Temple to the phœnix — Hsi-la-Ho — Gateway through palisades — The old bed of the Sungari — Brigands on their way to execution — Arrival at Petuna — Illness of Chu-lisiu — Painful remedies — Temple and frescoes at Petuna — Mosquitoes — Manehurian cranes — Difficulties in crossing the Sungari — Island — Shui-shih Yingtzu — Accident to Younghusband — Antelopes — Jerboa rat — Bustards — A Mongol palace — Road to Tsitsihar — Buddhist tombs — Chinese aversion to milk — Nai-p'i, or cream-cheese — Lama form of religion — Check against over-population — Couriers — Anecdote of the Russian police — The Archimandrite Palladius — Ancient fortifications — First view of Tsitsihar — A p'ailou — Xeglected coffins — Concrete flat roofs — Gabled roofs — Scene in a banker's parlour — A disagreeable inn — Convicts — An unpleasant custom — Soldiers drilling- -A funeral — Change of plans — Country north of Tsitsihar . . . 290

Chapter XI

tsitsihar to sansing. The steppe — Artemisia plant — Soda and other salts — Primitive method of extracting soda — Wolves — A sad story — A Mongol cottage — Mongol children — Hsiao-chia-tien — Hulan — Manufacture of cart-wheels — Donkey's flesh — A terrible massacre — Pei-lin-tzii— Wild-goose shooting — Brigands in the road — The Chretien.. — The priest's room — A victim of opium-smokiDg — Deep wells — Fortifications against brigands — A curious weapon — Harvest — Pa-yen-shu-shu — M. Raguit — M. Card — Home-made wine — Hsiao-shih Ho — M. Riffar<_ — Experiences of brigands — Our escort — Extortion — Verdict of Europeans on the Chinese — Sport near Pa-yen-shu-shu — An ancient plate — Low degrees of temperature — Wise colonists — Good pheasant-shooting — Fowls of the mist — Our landlord and the brigands — Arrival at Sansing XX CHAPTER XIT. sansing to ninguta and hun-ch'un.

TAG]. Situation of Sansing — Population — Fort and barracks — Gold-mining by the Government — Theatricals in the market-place — Fish at Sansing — Sturgeon — Difficulties ofthe road — Accident to a cart — Sceneryup the Hurka — Tamaha salmon — Curious modes of fishing — Cantonment at Yeh-ho — Ninguta — ' Mr. Gladstone ' — Theatre at Ninguta — Start for Hun-ch'un — Cold weather — Edible pines — Lao-sung-ling — Black game — Valley of the Tumen — Mi-chiang — Lieutenant- General 1 330

Chapter XIII

novo-kievsk. Forts at Hun-ch'un — Weapons ofthe garrison — Huge banners — Russian Frontier — Cossack outpost — Colonel Sokolowski — Service and pay of Cossacks — Russian and Chinese Frontier Commission — Russians and brigands — Russians, English, and Orientals — Novo-kievsk — Possiet Harbour — Colonists — Coreans — Greek church — The pope — M. Methuen — Diner a la Russe — Russian alarmists . . . 347

Chapter XIV. Hun-ch'un To Pa-chia-tzu

Short cut to Omoso — Visit from the Fu-tu-t'ung — His costume — Early rising — English and Chinese boots — A cold journey — More barracks — Difficulties of transport — Ha-la-pa Ling Pass — Head sources of the Hurka — Tung-o-kang-tzu — Autun — Chang-tsai Ling Pass — . Brigands — La-pa-hi-tzu Hill — Hai-ching Ling — Lao-yeh Ling — Reach Kirin — Tung-cuing cheng — The Plain of Stone — Chang San's adventure with brigands — Second visit to Mr. Sung — Another Chinese dinner — A remedy for toothache — A second Lao-yeh Ling — More brigands — Collection of p'ailous — Busy sight on the roads — K'uan-ch'eng-tzii — Temple to Lao-yeh — Temple to Buddha — Inscription at a mosque — Presbyterian chapel — Roman Catholic settlement — Priests at Pa-chia-tzu — Mass 357

Chapter XV. Pa-chia-tzu To Port Arthur

An inn on fire — The Ma-t'ien-tai Men Gate — A frozen fog — The Kaiyuau pagoda — A bridge — A coffin in transit — Curious superstitions — Tieh-ling — Floods in Liao-tung — Chinese service at the Mission CONTENTS XXI PAGE Hou?e — Pere Conraux's affray with soldiers — Massacre at Tientsin Residence of the Presbyterians — Hospital of the Medical Mission — Mongol idol's temple — Shopping — Delicacies — Long finger-nails — College at Sha-ling — Hot-springs at T'ang-kang-tzu — Hai-ch'eng— Christmas Day in China — The party breaks up — Manufacture of salt — Result of Feng-shui — Sha-k'ou — Buddhist cave — A silk filatory — Invasion by pirates — Firewood plantations — Oysters — Ancient forts— Tiger Mountain — Port Arthur — Naval and military establishments — Foreign policy of the Chinese — Return to Shanghai — Conclusion ............ 381 APPENDICES.

Note A. India, China, and Nepal 413 B. Opium 418 C. Imperial Decree against Official Corruption . . 4*21 D. Journeys of M. de la Bruniere and M. Venault . . 423 ,, E. Conversions by the Blind Man of T'ai-ping-k'ou . 446 F. The Long White Mountain 451 G. Plants collected on the Journey .... 455 ,, H. Itinerary 464 INDEX LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS. FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Lake Lung-wang Tan, on the Summit of the Long White Mountain, 7,500 Feet above the Sea. After a Sketch by Lieutenant F. E. Younghusband . . . Frontispiece A Pagoda To face 9 The Great Wall of China „ 39 P'ailou at the Pei-ling, the Emperor Tai Tsung's Tomb, MOUKDEN g2 A Manchu Prince— His Highness Prince Ch'un, Father of His Majesty the Emperor of China . . . „ 91 Approach to the Governor-General's Palace at Moukden — a Deer-horn Fence in the Foreground . . . „ 149 Temple of the Fox, Moukden „ 190 South Entrance to the Fu-ling, the Tomb of Nurhachu, Founder of the Manchu Dynasty , 226 Street in a Chinese Town 377 Buddhist Cave Temple in the Mountain of the Sages . „ 390 ILLUSTBATIONS IN TEXT.

A Solon Manchu Youth . .,r lo Lama Monument outside Moukden ... f7 A Manchu Bow and Arrows .... iig A Ru-i or Sceptre .... ..,., Manchu Shoes .... ,„. . lo4 Entrance to a Family Graveyard .... i ,0 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXIII PAGB Temple to the God of Literature, on the City Wall, Moukden 183 A Buddhist Priest 185 A Roadside Shrine 188 A Long Cart, with Small Mixed Team 217 Pagoda South of Moukden 222 Interior of an Inn 235 A Corean Fisherman 252 Outside a Pawnshop 277 Mongol Lama's Tomb at Chiu-shan Men, on the Steppe between Petuna and Tsitsihar 300 Ornamental Tile from a Mongol Lama's Tomb . . . . 301 Ornament from a Tile on a Mongol Lama's Tomb . . . 309 An Oil-cart 312 A Chinese Carpenter 310 A Bridge 335 A Corean Cart 353 A Corean Bracelet 356 A Corner of an Inn Yard 373 Pagoda at Kai-yuan 383 Baby Friends 389 A Wayside Monument 393 A Gravestone 402 Bottle of Lang-yao Porcelain OBSERVANDA. a is pronounced a8 the a in father. ai „ „ aye. ao ,, as in how. e ,, „ yet. e „ as the vowel sound in earth. ei „ as in money with the n omitted. trh „ „ burr or purr. i „ as the vowel sound in ease or tree. ih „ „ „ „ chick. in „ „ „ „ ehin. i-g „ „ „ >. thing. ia ,, as in the Italian piazza. iao see i and ao. iu „ eeyew or eeoo. a „ as in holloa. nu „ „ the ow in burrow. ii „ „ the French eur, tu. n ,, ,, the oo in too. uei „ as the vowel sounds in the French jouer. ua „ as in Juan, nearly ooar. u „ something between the i in bit and the u in shut. ch „ as in chair. ha ,, „ hissing if the first i is dropped. j „ nearly the French j as in jaune. k „ as in king. sh „ ,, shall.

The insertion of an apostrophe reversed after a consonant signifies that that con sonant is aspirated. Chuang means a village or hamlet. Ch'eng „ a walled town. 'Pun „ a village or settlement. T'ai ,, a stage or military post. Shan „ a mountain. Ling „ a mountain pass. Ho ,, a river. Chiang „ a large river. K'ou ., the junction of one or more rivers ; sometimes also a mountain pass. Tien „ au inn. Tzii „ a dissyllabic partic'e, to which no meaning can be attached ; also a son. Pei " „ north. Nr.n ,, south. Tung ,, east. Hsi „ west. Ch'ang „ long. Ta „ preat. Hsiao ., little, small. Pai „ white. Hei „ black. ' Cash ' is a copper-alloy coin, valued at about six to one farthin ' Tael ' is a Chinese ounce of silver, varying in weight and value accordinoto locality and the price of silver ; the present value may be taken at 4s. lOd. 'Li' is a Chinese mile, almost exactly one-third of an English mile." 'K'ang'_ is a brick platform, warmed by flues, in the interior of a house used f,„ eating, resting, and sleeping. ' otu " r

Chapter I. Introductory

Programme of the voyage — We reach Yingtzu or Newchwang — Position of Manchuria — Its boundaries — Its three provinces — Extent of the country — Colonisation by Chinese — Manchuria a highland country — Mountains — Rivers — Barriers for transit-dues — Different names for the same place — Survey by the Jesuits — Description of towns — Walls of towns — Military stations — Plan of towns — Architecture — Yamens — Temples — Pagodas — P'ailous — Pawnshops — Signposts — Roads— Fertile soil — Crops — Contrast between Indian ryots and Chinese — Varieties of millet — Uses of great millet— Small millet — Good fodder— Golden millet — Other crops — Bean-curd — Bean-oil — Vegetables — Fruits — Timber - Ginseng — Deer-horns — Minerals — Furs — Manufact ures — Climate — Difficulties of transport — Telegraphs— Money — Cash— Cumbersome currency — Local notes — Silver shoes — Money-changers — Mint — Passports.