A Voyage from Leith to Lapland; or, Pictures of Scandinavia in 1850

Front matter

A VOYAGE FROM LEITH TO LAPLAND: OR, PICTURES OF SCANDINAVIA in 1850. BY WILLIAM HURTON. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1851. LONDON : PHINTED BY HARRISON AND SON, ST. MARTIN'S LANE. TO HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN, THESE PICTURES OF HIS SCANDINAVIAN HOME ARE INSCRIBED, BY HIS FRIEND AND ADMIRER, WILLIAM HURTON. LONDON, May, 1151. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. Chapter. Page I. Introductory words... .... .... .... .... 1 II. Voyage to Gllickstadt (on the Elbe) 7 III. Gliickstadt to Kiel , 18 IV. Life afloat on the Baltic — Kiel to Svendborg in the Island of Funen .... .... .... .... 33 V. Svendborg to Copenhagen .... .... .... .... 53 VI. Brief general impressions of Copenhagen .... 62 VII. The exit of the Old Year, and the entrance of the New Year, at Copenhagen .... .... .... 69 VIII.

An anticipation of the " womb of time." Anent Copenhagen children, womankind, and similar matters, of no interest to the philosopher .... 85 IX. Danish literature and literary men... .... .... 94 X. The watchmen of Copenhagen .... .... .... 104 XI. Death and Burial of Oehlenschlœger, the Shakspere of the North Ill XII. Winter aspect of the streets ot" Copenhagen .... 137 XIII. Danish Currency — Copenhagen Post-office — Copenhagen Cemetery .... .... .... .... .... 159 XIV. Hans Christian Andersen .... .... .... .... 172 XV. Christiansborg Palace— the Exchange — the Royal Library — the University Library — the Runde Taarn — the University .... .... .... .... 195 XVI. Copenhagen beyond the gates — the Island of Amager .... .... .... .... .... .... 213 XVII. Thorwaldsen's Museum 223 XVIII. Danish " Slaves" VI CONTENTS.

Chapter. Page XIX. The New City — Amalienborg — Nyboder — Rosenhorg Slot — Christianshavn — General Observations .... .... .... .... .... .... 256 XX. Winter climate — Cost of Living — General comfort ot the People — the reigning Dynasty — Commercial inactivity .... .... .... .... .... 269 XXI. A second (and last) " anticipation of the womb of time" 284 XXII. Den tappre Landsoldat — the national War- Song of Denmark 291 XXIII. The Danish Character 295 XXIV. The Danish Language 303 XXV. Farewell to Copenhagen LEITH TO LAPLAND; OR, PICTUEES FROM SCANDINAVIA.

Chapter I. Introductory Words

Some fourscore years agone, one Laurence Sterne, of right witty memory, classified all tra vellers thus : — " Idle travellers ; inquisitive tra vellers ; lying travellers ; proud travellers ; vain travellers; splenetic travellers; delinquent and felonious travellers ; unfortunate and innocent travellers ; simple travellers ; and sentimental travellers." He might have enlarged the Ust con siderably, but one class of travellers has altogether sprung up since his day and generation, and is VOL. I. b already so exceedingly numerous, that, like the rod of Aaron, it threatens to swallow up all others. The name of this new class is — Murray's Hand book Travellers ! All the continental world knows the English Traveller of this celebrated class, for he stalks into hotels with the Hand book between his finger and thumb ; he lays the Hand-book open before him at every meal ; he puts it carefully under his pillow o' nights ; he astounds the ciceronis themselves by roundly telling them they are mistaken regarding the height of this tower, or the length of that bridge, for the Hand-book — and he exultingly holds up the magical tome — says it is so-and-so ; he will not put foot on board a steamboat, nor cross the threshold of an inn, nor view anything animate nor inanimate, unless the Hand-book counselleth and adviseth the same; he implicitly and un swervingly goeth by land and sea, "there and back again," in the identical track laid down by the Hand-book; he swears and vows by, and fervently and reverentially believes in the Hand book ; and without the immortal Hand-book, the Englishman abroad would be more helpless than the babe and suckling at home !

I am not, never was, and never will be, a Traveller of the above genus. I acknowledge no guide but my own eyes, ears, and judgment — no route but that which my own fancy, inclination, or necessity, suggests. I think no scene sublime, no city charming, no edifice wonderful, merely be cause the Hand-book says it is. Seriously, I am not scoffing at the same Hand-book, for I dare say it is an admirable thing of the kind, but of no use to an impulsive Wanderer like myself. The reader will, perchance, like my yarn none the worse because I thus spurn all beaten tracks, and habitually prefer out-o'-the-way modes of journey ing by land and ocean, as affording far greater likelihood that I may see and describe something which has not been seen and described far better by a hundred predecessors. Why I resolved to go to Scandinavia at all, perhaps nobody would care to know, and I certainly do not care to tell.

My preparations were soon made. I had only to pen half-a-dozen letters, and pack a few books, linen, and sundries, in the smallest possible space, and I was ready to depart. I am ein Wandernde Vogel — a roamer hither and thither, to and fro — delighting to mix familiarly with people of divers nations, thereby treasuring up a knowledge of men and manners which, one day, may be turned to b good account. No bright young eyes were dimmed at my departure; no snowy arms were flung around my neck ; no fond young heart beat against mine in a sobbing farewell embrace. Yet, roamer as I am, blessed be God, I have some devoted friends, and a loving father and mother, both of whom, I fervently pray, will live to wel come their own Wandernde Vogel beneath their old roof-tree once more. At present I sing, with literal truth: — " When the long dun wolds are ribbed with snow, And loud the Norland whirlwinds blow, Alone I wander to and fro, Oriana \" Part of these "Introductory Words" I wrote when aboard a tiny craft in the " wintry Baltic," with a deep coating of snow overhead ; and I scrawl these concluding sentences in a heavy gale of wind far out in the stormy Arctic Ocean.

"Ye gentlemen of England, Who live at home at ease, Ah, little do ye think upon" the life der Wandernde Vogel leadeth ! A parting word. It is very possible that the voice of censure or of praise, regarding this work, will never reach my ears ; but should I, in some remote region of the earth, learn that, with all its faults it has, nevertheless, met with some little degree of approval, and afforded transient gratifi cation to my fellow-countrymen, — then, I say, a gleam of joy will cheer the heart of the lonely Wandernde Vogel, WILLIAM HURTON. May 1, 1851. THE MARTELLO STEAMER. 7

Chapter II. Voyage To

GtUCKSTADT (ON THE ELBE). During a few months in summer and autumn, steamers ply regularly from London and Hull to St. Petersburgh, and land passengers at Copen hagen. The last steamer sailed this year about the end of October; and as it was nearly the end of -November when I wished to depart, it behoved me to consider well what means would be the best to reach Copenhagen, which I pro posed for my chief, or at any rate, my first winter residence. There were only two ways — one to go direct for Copenhagen by sea, in a sailing vessel ; and the other to go by steamer to Hamburgh, and thence through Schleswig-Holstein to Kiel, and so up the Baltic ; otherwise, to go from Hamburgh to Lubeck, and endeavour to get a passage from the small port of Traffemunde, a few miles from the latter place. Now, with regard to the Ham burgh route, it is comparatively a very easy matter in summer time, but to the last degree difficult and utterly uncertain in winter.

In the former season, steamers ply from Kiel to Copenhagen, and there are always plenty of sailing vessels also; but in the latter, there are no steamers and no sailing vessels, big or httle, to be depended upon, on account of the harbours, and sometimes vast tracts of the Baltic itself, being frozen up from an early period. Aware of this, I was very anxious to secure a passage direct by sea ; and I wrote to Hull, as being by far the most likely place, to secure me one in a vessel of any description, and of any nation, but received answer that not one was, just then, "lying on" for the Baltic way, the season being so late. No resource remained but to get to Hamburgh, and I arrived at Leith on Saturday, 24th of November, 1849, and sailed the same evening in the "Martello" steamer for Hamburgh (distant about 500 miles) ; myself and a Danish gentleman, named Lofgren, being the only passengers.

In my verse-making days (don't think that I am A STORM AT SEA. old now, for that matter, sweet lady), I remember publishing a " bit sang," commencing with the lines — " A smile on your face, and kind word on your tongue, Will serve you as passports all nations among;" and true enough have I ever found this, among the people of foreign nations ; but, unhappily, there exists a State regulation, justly dreaded by all travellers, which requires a formal, written, signed, and sealed piece of paper, called a passport, in which your person, address, and occupation are described, with more or less accuracy. To secure mine, I went to the office of the Danish Consul- General at Leith, in the morning, and left him my French passport from which to make out one for Denmark, which he politely assured me should be ready for my signature in the afternoon.

On calling for it accordingly, I, to my surprise, was informed that he would not make any charge ; an unusual fact, which, I believe, I attribute rightly to his taking into consideration what my object in visiting the North of Europe was. At any rate, his kindness deserves acknowledgment. I dearly love the ocean ; and mentally did I ex claim, as we swiftly left auld Scotia's shores — b3 " Once more upon the waters ! yet once more ; And the waves bound beneath me as a steed Which knows its rider." Yes, in the words of Hans Christian Andersen, " I love the sea when its stormy billows roar ; I love it when its waves roll gently to the shore, And the pale moonbeams smile upon its blue expanse." To me the ocean never is monotonous — never presents precisely the same aspect. It was a glorious moonlight Saturday night, with a fine, keen air ; and as the Martello dashed on wards, for her last voyage this season, her wheels churned the watei into foam resembling snow flakes, and the wavelets in her long wake glistened like quicksilver.

On Sunday the wind blew in our teeth, and grew fiercer and stronger, until the* ship pitched and tossed right merrily. I am no curled dandy ; and I am thankful to say, I can always sleep on a soft plank, bite hard biscuits, and relish salt junk — ac complishments which every puking valetudinarian would do well to take lessons in. Wrapped simply in my old sea-cloak, I stretched myself on a locker for the night, as I thought. Ah ! how many nights, on sea and land, have I enjoyed a sleep which kings and millionaires would envy, with no other A STORM AT SEA. bed than that dear old cloak! There are three things which accompany me in all my wanderings, and are ever by my side — my cloak, my Bible, and my Burns; all three the gift of that fond mother whose eyes will overflow with tears as they devour these lines.

Never will I part with either ; and per chance it may ultimately be with me as Eliza Cook sweetly sings of a sailor boy, who went to sea with a cloak, his mother's gift, and when, many years afterwards, he was dying in a far-off foreign land, hugged it around him, and expired with the words, " My cloak — thou'rt warmest !" on his lips. I was saying that, wrapped in my cloak, I had turned in for the night. The machinery was groaning, the beams and bulks were creaking and shriek ing ; the wind was howling and mercilessly striking the vessel with the force of a battery of mighty sledge-hammers. Yet the only sensation I ex perienced was a decidedly pleasurable one. My spirits always rise in a storm, and now my soul felt proudly elate; for, somehow, it seemed as tiiough I were brought into direct communion with Him who " holds the ocean in the hollow of His hand;" whose "way is in the sea," and "whose paths are in the great waters ;" who "speaks in tempests," and " who walks on the wings of the wind."

I had just fallen asleep, alone and in darkness, a little before midnight, when a tremendous crash awoke me, and at the same moment, the water poured down the companion slide — which I had left open — in a perfect cataract, for a full minute. I felt the ship quiver and collapse throughout with the stroke ; and, knowing it must be a very heavy sea she had shipped, sprang up, and with difficulty groped my way to the ladder, at the foot of which the surging water, on the floor of the dark cabin, emitted an extremely beautiful phosphorescent light. It literally seemed alive with fiery serpents, wreathing and disporting. On emerging on deck, I had the satisfaction to stagger along knee-deep through the water, to the galley, where I dried myself by the fire. During the remainder of the night, the decks were washed fore and aft every few minutes ; and mingled hail, rain, snow, and frozen sleet came down on us with the storm-wind.

But there was that on board which rose superior to the grandeur and power of the elemental strife — I mean the glorious Intellect of Man ! It was at work also ; and wheresoever it laboureth, the mightiest organic elements are conquered, and made blind servitors, instead of tyrannous rulers. Sooth, it HELIGOLAND. is a thought that ought of itself to elevate mor tality beyond the peddling petty cares and figments of worldly life and strife ; for what sublime ideas doth it not shadow forth of our future state in the infinitely purer existence which awaits us beyond the grave ! Although, ever and anon, the machinery fairly paused to gather strength for the next stroke, yet onward strided the iron ship — cleaving the pathless ocean, and buried, so to speak, in the awe-striking war of nature — her giant fabric sternly and un swerving bore along perfectly uninjured, as though the Almighty's own finger upheld and guided her on her way.

I could not but mentally contrast the present state of nautical knowledge, theoretical and practical, with that of some centuries bygone ; and when I balanced this ship, and the way she was bandied, with the vessels of, say four hundred years ago, manned by unskilful sailors — creeping along from shore to shore, from headland to head land, and distraught if they happened to get out of sight of land for a few days in the summer months — I must say that I felt a thrill of proud emotion at the evidence of the noble progression manifest in this, as in every other pursuit to which the human mind has been continuously directed. The weather remained nearly as bad the whole of Monday, but moderated somewhat early on Tuesday morning, although, in the words of the "Ancient Mariner," ' ' And then there came both mist and snow, And it grew wondrous cold."

A few hours after daybreak, we beheld the first land since leaving Leith, being no other than the celebrated island of Heligoland, which lies far out at sea, and about twenty-five to thirty miles from the mouth of the Elbe. Its name is derived from Heilige — Holy Island. It is little better than a long, desolate rock, rising probably two hundred feet above the level of the sea, with a species of sandy beach on one side, which is parcelled out in a few fields and gardens. There was, a while back, only one cow upon it, but many Friesland sheep ; though how they manage to live is a mystery. Heaven must, indeed, temper both wind and hunger to them ! There is a little town perched upon it ; and during the present century it has sprung up into considerable reputation as a visiting and bathing place for the Hamburghers, who love to inhale the fresh air of the stormy North Sea during the summer months.

The dwellings are said to be models of neatness, both inside and out ; GLUCKSTADT. and, as locks for doors are unknown, one would presume that a primitive state of manners is pre valent ; and, perhaps, even that blessing of blessings, the non-existence of any lawyer. Most of the inhabitants, who number two or three thou sand, follow the sea as fishermen, pilots, &c, and have the reputation of being very indolent, and exorbitant in their demands for services. In 1807, Heligoland passed from the possession of Denmark to England, and has belonged to the latter ever since. A garrison of five hundred to a thousand men was maintained until 1821 ; but now there are, I believe, few or no soldiers, and only a governor (par excellence) who was formerly a captain in the navy, and has a salary of 1,000/. a-year.

There is also a clergyman, who is paid 100/. a-year by the State. The civil administration of the little territory is said to be sufficiently despotic; but the dwellers are perfectly satisfied with it. As we approached the Elbe, the weather grew bitterly cold, and the salt spray froze the moment it fell on board. We passed Cuxhaven, a little way up the river, which, at the mouth, is very wide, and had numbers of vessels, of all nations, sailing or anchoring about it. The coast on both sides the river is low, and apparently uninteresting. By and-by we could discern the Holstein shore, clothed with snow ; and the cold grew so palpably intense, that it became an anxious question as to whether the Elbe would not be found frozen ere we reached Hamburgh, which is eighty miles from the mouth of the former.

Doubt was soon ex changed for certainty, for by passing vessels we learned that the river was frozen at Hamburgh that morning, and our pilot decided on our going no further than Gliickstadt, which is on the left bank of the river, in the Duchy of Holstein, and about thirty English miles below Hamburgh. The Mar tello, accordingly, stopped off the town at 6 p.m., and boats put off from the shore for the passengers. As both myself and M. Lofgren were exceedingly desirous to get on to Hamburgh that night if pos sible, we hailed to know when the train left for the latter place — as there is a railway, which passes from Kiel through Gliickstadt to Altona (joining Hamburgh). The reply was that the last train had left half an hour before. After a brief con sideration, we both agreed to land, and four stout oarsmen propelled us towards the town.

As we approached the shore, they had to pull hard to force their way through the floating masses of ice. GLUCKSTADT. On nearing the pier, we were eagerly hailed as to the name of the steamer. The only medium for ascending this pier was a number of strips of wood, nailed in one place from pile to pile, precisely like the staves of a ladder. It was a per fectly easy matter for me to go aloft this way, but I could not help marvelling how it would have been with lady passengers, for apparently there was no other means of landing, as the river was frozen all the way beyond the pier. I climbed gaily enough, despite fingers tingling with cold, and then, stooping down, grasped the hand of my companion, and raised him by my side on the pier of Gliickstadt.

Chapter III. Gluckstadt To Kiel

" And having effected your characteristic landing," saith my reader, " I suppose, Mr. Wan dernde Vogel, you were forthwith marched off to undergo the custom-house ordeal — a custom ' better honoured,' to your thinking, 'in the breach than in the observance,' eh ?" Softly, good reader ; no such thing. By the blessed law of the Duchies, travellers whose destination is beyond the place they are landed at, are there subjected to no examination whatever, but may walk off, bag and baggage, just as they please. My destination was Copenhagen, and my companion's, Ham burgh ; so we were both in the favoured category. My first impression on gaining the pier was a vivid idea of the extraordinary contrast of scenery which a few days' swift transit had enabled me to realise. Here I was literally in a new world.

All GLUCKSTADT. around was ice and snow. The latter lay to the depth of perhaps six to nine inches, was fine as dust, and creaked sharply beneath the tread. Overhead hung a cloudless sky, with a brilliant moon, surrounded by a slight halo ; and, scattered few and far between, in the gleaming expanse of heaven, were stars of dazzling beauty, which sparkled in the keen air, and, through the purity of the atmospheric medium, seemed to the eye to be enlarged to an unusual size. The boatmen who conveyed us, joined by some amphibious-looking hangers-on, after a long gabble, apportioned our united luggage among themselves, and, so far as I could perceive, for each article there were two able-bodied men, all neine-ing and ya-ing, and stamping together. With this regi ment at our heels, we accompanied one Henrich Falck to his hotel, situated at no great distance from the harbour.

Contrary to my expectations, the troop were not very exacting in their demands, and gathered round the bar to swallow the fruits of their labour. We were soon comfortably ensconced in a quaint apartment, with ceiling of planks overhead, and heated, as usual, by a stove. The kitchen strongly reminded me of an English one, and had its rows of plates of the English willow pattern, which is found all the world over. The room in which I slept was a narrow double-bedded one, the tenant of the other bed being a military officer. I may describe the bed, as it was a model of others which I saw in a very respectable hotel in Kiel, and I have no doubt all in the country are similar in fashion. It consisted of a frame, with deep sides of wood, and four posts rising a few inches above the said sides. The bottom of the bed was of planks, and the body was filled level to the top of the sides with straw.

Over this straw was simply doubled a strong unbleached homespun sheet, on which you reposed, with a bottle of hot water at your feet, and for covering had a slight and perfectly loose bed, probably filled with down of the eider duck, mixed with feathers of other northern wild fowls. A pillow of the same description supported your head. There were no blankets or any other thing whatever than I have enumerated ; and the whole bed had a steep declination from head to foot. A more comfortable bed than this proved, I would not desire ; but, as the reader will perhaps rightly conclude from other parts of my notes, I am by no means fastidious in this respect, and almost any couch would have secured a sound repose after the preceding three rough, sleepless nights. KIEL 21 Instead of starting for Hamburgh, I had resolved to proceed to Kiel by the first train in the morning ; and the result of an overnight con versation with Mr. Lofgren (a most intelligent young man, who spoke Danish, Swedish, German, and English, with equal facility) was, that he gave me advice and information, and a letter of introduction to his friend, Mr. Marolly, likewise a Dane, and British Consul at Kiel, and I started, accordingly, at 8 a.m., for the railway station, guided by my obliging host, whose house I can conscientiously recommend.

Gliickstadt is the third largest town in the Duchy of Holstein,* and has about six thousand inhabitants. From the superficial glance I had of it, it appeared to be in no respect remarkable. The most distinguishing feature of the neat houses, to me, was the great number of good-sized windows which each contained. The light of • The Duchies of Holstein and Schleswig, the names of which have so recently become familiar with the English public, com prise, with that of Lauenburg, altogether a territory of above eight thousand square miles, and a population little short of eight hundred thousand souls. Up to the period of the late war, they were an integral part of the Danish dominions, but speak dialects of the German language, and always have been governed by their own peculiar laws. The largest town in Holstein is Altona, the population of which is thirty thousand, and consequently next to that of Copenhagen. heaven cannot be taxed here.

One large and curious-looking building, full of large windows, on the opposite side of the harbour, attracted my notice, as we walked along; and I inquired of Falck whether it was not the Town Hall, or some similar building, but was astonished on being told that it was a place appropriated to the confinement of prisoners for life. I asked what crime they had committed to incur this dreadful penalty, and was told that most of them were convicted of manslaying. In answer to further particular en quiry, he assured me that executions for murder were exceedingly rare, and were only inflicted in very aggravated cases. I would willingly have acquired a knowledge of the species of discipline to which these life-captives were subjected, had time permitted. Many vessels, including two Greenlandmen belonging to Gliickstadt, were frozen up in the little harbour.

At the station I paid for my carpet-bag and trunk about twopence English each, receiving (as is the system on most continental lines), a ticket, the corresponding number of which was pasted on them. I took a third class f^re for Kiel, a distance of about sixty English miles, the charge being three shillings English, or only one halfpenny per mile ; and I assert, without exaggeration, that the car- KIEL riages were decidedly more comfortable than second class carriages generally are in England. In size and internal arrangement, they resemble English third class, and were well lighted with glazed and tightly-fitting windows. The railway itself appeared excellently made, constructed, I was told, by Scotch engineers. On starting, the sun shone brightly; and feathery particles of snow drifted,like glittering fragments of diamonds, across its slanting beams.

The rate of speed at which the train proceeded was slow. At Elmshorn, I had to change carriages for Kiel, and staid about half-an-hour at the station, the refreshment-room of which is really most ele gant; and, although the decorations are pro bably considerably less expensive (as likewise the structure itself), than those of most English sta tions, so much pleasing taste is evinced in them, that I wish my own countrymen would condescend to take a pattern. On the route to Kiel, the glimpses obtainable of the surrounding country most strongly reminded me of a well-cultivated flat English county. There were numerous fields, and neat wayside cottages, with occasionally little secluded hamlets. I believe that most Englishmen make the same obser vation, and say that in other parts of the Duchies the resemblance is still more striking and minute.

When I arrived at Kiel, I lost no time in going in quest of Mr. Marolly, and after some search, succeeded in finding his residence. By waiting there awhile, I had the pleasure (for such indeed it proved), of making his personal acquaintance. He is a young man, and, as I before mentioned, a Dane, but speaks good English, and is of very superior intelligence. After perusing my letter of introduction, he at once offered his best services, evidently in a most sincere spirit. Having explained to him the object of my journey, and my anxiety to get to Copenhagen as soon as possible, by any means of transit, he considered what to advise. He said there were, he thought, only one or two very little vessels bound for Copenhagen, and forthwith sallied out with me to make enquiries. Having found the captain of one of them, he bargained on my behalf for a passage, as the vessel was to sail that evening.

It was arranged that whatever length short of five days the voyage might prove, I was to stay on board full that time ; the Danish quarantine law being still in strict operation, by which not any traveller is permitted to land until he has been five clear days from the last port he left. Passing quarantine at Copenhagen is frequently KIEL a most expensive affair. Mr. Marolly told me that in September he had himself to pass it there for a brief period, and that it cost him, in fees and other expenses, six pounds sterling. In some cases it is far more serious. By remaining on board the vessel five days and getting the same certified (if necessary) on my passport, by the Captain, it was hoped I should avoid further detention and expense. This matter arranged, we dined together at the table d'hote of the Stadt Copenhagen, kept by a good fellow named Carl Heinrich,* who humour ously described himself to me as being the first citizen of the state (erster staatsburger).