Pictures of Hungarian life. By the author of 'Flemish Interiors' [Mrs. W. P. Byrne] . Illustrated by the author

Front matter

PICTURES OF HUNGAEIAN LIFE. ZIGEUNER BAND, PICTURES OF HTJNGAEIAN LIFE. BV THE AUTHOR OF "FLEMISH INTERIOES," "GHEEL etc. etc. Illustrated 6s tfje author. Yes, I have loved thy wild abode, Unknown, nnploughed, untrodden shore! Where scarce the woodman finds a road, And scarce the fisher plies an oar ; For man's neglect I love thee more — That Art nor Avarice intrude To tame thy torrents' thunder-shock, Or prune thy vineyard of the rock Magnificently rude ! Campbell. LONDON: WILLIAM ELDGWAY, 169, PICCADILLY, W. 1869. Bight of translation reserved by the Author. j TO THE REVERED MEMORY OF HIS EMINENCE THE LARGE-MINDED AND LARGE-HEARTED, WHILE MINUTELY-BENEVOLENT, CARDINAL WISEMAN respectfully dedicate the narrative of this jodrnet, (originally planned by himself,) as a grateful kecord of THE CONFIDENCE AND FRIENDSHIP with which he honoured me, A CHOICE AND ELEVATING GIFT, DEEPLY VALUED, AFFECTIONATELY REMEMBERED, AND ACCEPTED AS ONE OF THE COMPENSATIONS OF LIFE.

Preface

. This volume, containing the narrative of recent expe riences im "West Hungary, interspersed with details of travel and personal incidents, will help to remove the formidable idea, generally entertained by the holiday tourist, of the difficulties attendant on a visit to that country. It will serve to shew what may be accomplished by the ordinary traveller, and how much may be enjoyed with a moderate outlay, and within a brief period, by those whose time is limited. Its object is to introduce its readers into a comparatively new world of travel, and to open to them facilities for gratifying and cultivating their most legitimate tastes and aspirations, amid scenes beyond the hackneyed range of mere pleasure-seeking excursionists. It seeks to incite them to study nature under a new phase, and while admiring the beautiful and diversified, but idiosyncratic scenery of Magyar-land, to make acquaintance also with her noble people. The author has endeavoured to describe such objects

PREFACE.

. as are calculated at once to divert and elevate the mind, and to afford to the thoughts that refined relaxation which must in time cease to be found in localities familiarized by constantly repeated visits, and deprived even of their natural charm by the baneful influence of common-place and distasteful associations. In Hungary, all is still, so to speak, fresh ; and those on whom the oft revisited autumn scenes have palled, and who sigh for a new sensation, may open to themselves a fertile source of contemplation in the almost unexplored fields of this interesting and suggestive land. They will find a fascination in all connected with it — its antecedents — its actualities — its future. Its history is a romance, full of picturesque episodes. Its people are patriots : the struggle they have made for their rights and liberties is meeting its reward, and their complete emancipation must soon be attained.

The honesty and simplicity, manliness and generosity of their nature, imparts a special charm to their domestic intercourse ; while the peculiar cha racter of their town and village life — their nomad and erratic tribes — their art and architecture — their Roman and yet earlier antiquities, Turkish remains, legendary lore and native literature — their social habits and general pro gress — render a sojourn among them at once singularly fascinating and eminently instructive.

PREFACE.

. IX The hospitality of the Hungarians is as graceful as it is generous. A single introduction almost suffices — by pass ing the word on from one to another — to open every door, to warm every heart, and to secure the most cordial reception everywhere — no slight boon in a land where purchased accommodation is often at fault. Of their cordiality and genuineness the author speaks from most agreeable personal recollection : these pages are therefore capable of supplying what their title intimates ; and — together with descriptions of the country, whether from a practical or æsthetic point of view, of its social, moral, and commercial prospects, its advancement in edu cation, its progress in art, science, and literature — of affording "sketches of life" in various ranks of society. Moreover, it may to a certain extent meet a want which must have been felt and appreciated by those who have wished, as well as those who have attempted, to travel in Hungary.

Thus far there is a dearth of guide-books to that most interesting land, and among the numerous manuals for the use of travellers in adjacent countries, the few scraps of information relative to itare scanty and often unworthy of credit, many being extremely incorrect and delusive. The little volume here offered to the public, though it em braces no very large tract of country, is at all events X

PREFACE.

. accurate in its statements, complete in itself, and equally available, whether for fireside entertainment or travelling companionship. It is a simple act of justice to acknowledge here the author's debt to the late courteous no less than distinguished prelate, Cardinal Wiseman, first for His Eminence's suggestion of this journey many years ago, and secondly for the success with which it was accomplished and the enjoyment it afforded, mainly due to the useful hints and valuable letters with which the author was furnished by his thoughtful kindness. To His Eminence's honour be it said, that although antedated by many years, these introductions proved as influential as if the generous heart that dictated and the friendly hand that wrote them had been yet active. There are not many great ones of the earth of whom we can thus say that his benefactions extend beyond the grave, and that '• Being dead, he yet speaketh."

ILLUSTRATIONS. Zigeuner Band at Raab . Frontispiece . {see page 83) Pressburg to face page 17 Raab 43 Gran 106 Vissegrad 130 "Waitzen 151 Hungarian Shepherd ERRATA. Pages 68, line 21, and 70, line I, for " Gheistliche," read " Geistliche." Page 107, line 1 1 .for " Esztregon," read " Esztergom." PICTURES OF HUNGARIAN LIFE.