A Ramble round the World, 1871 ...Translated by Lady Herbert

Preface

. To behold, beyond the Rocky Mountains, in the virgin forests of tlie Sierra Nevada, civilization in its struggle with savage nature; to behold, in the Empire of the Rising Sun, the efforts of certain remarkable men to launch their country abruptly in the path oi progress; to behold, in the Celestial Empire, the silent, constant, and generally passive— but always obstinate— resistance which the spirit of the Chinese opposes to the moral, political, and commercial invasions of Europe : — these are the objects ofthe journey, or rather of the wander ings, which I purpose making round the globe. I shall not visit India : my time is too short. I reserve to a future occasion, if God give me life and health, the examination of the results produced in the course of a century by the contact of a great Christian nation with the millions of Hindoos and Mussulmans subject to her dominion.

PREFACE.

. On my road, I mean to amuse myself; that is, to see all I can which is curious and, to me, new : and every evening I shall note down in my journal what I have seen, and what has been told me during the day. This being clearly understood, let us close our trunks and start. Corvii.le House, TiprEKAav, May 13, 1871. FACE CONTENTS. FART /.—AMERICA.

Chapter I

From Queenstown to New York. — From the 14TH to the 24TH May. Departure. — Sabbath day's rest at Queenstown.* — The Emigrants on board the China. — Inconvenience of the Navigation to the North of the 41st Parallel. — Disembarkation at New York 3

Chapter II

New York. — From the 24TH to the 26111 May. Broadway. — Wall Street. — Fifth Avenue. — Influence of New York on the destinies of North America 14 CHATTER III. Washington. — From the 26th to the 29TH May. The dead season in the Official Capital. — The Alabama Treaty from the American point of view. — Transformation of ideas and habits since the Civil War. — Conflicting opinions on the Emancipation Question. — Growing preponderance of the coloured races in the Southern States CONTENTS. X

Chapter IV

From Washington to Chicago.— From the 29TH to the 30TH May. pacb Travellers in the Far West. — The Miseries of a single Man. — Aristocratic longings in the Country of Equality. — The Susquehanna. — Thejuniata. — Arrival at Chicago 31

Chapter V

Chicago. — From the 30TH May to the ist June. Appearance of Chicago. — Growing importance of the German element. — The great Caravanserais. — Economy of human strength. — The superiority, in the United States, of the lower strata of Society. — Chicago the great emporium of the West. — Michigan Avenue. — A house on wheels. — General Sheridan. — Manner and character of European travel. — The position of Woman in the family 41

Chapter VI

From Chicago to the Salt-Lake City. — From the ist to the 4TH of June. Mr. Pullman and his Cars. — The Mississippi. — Race between two Trains. — Omaha. — Prairies. — The Valley of La Plata. — The Indians. — A Stationmaster Scalped. — Stations on the Pacific Railway. — Cheyenne. — The Roughs. — The life of United States Officers in the Far West. — Passage ofthe Rocky Mountains. — Fearful descent of Mount Wahsatch. — Brigham Young at Ogden. — Arrival in the Capital of the Mormons 59

Chapter VII

Salt-Lake City. — From the 4TH to the 7TH of June. Appearance of the Town. — The Modern Crusaders. — The Mormon Theatre and Tabernacle. — Townsend Hotel. — The Indians and Indian Agents. — Douglas Camp. — The Canones. — Brigham Youn". — Mormonism 7.(5 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VIII

Corinne. — From the 7th to the Sth June. PAGE Corinne, the type of a Cosmopolitan Town. — A Row- Wow on the Bear River. — Excursion in the Mountains. — Copenhagen. — Definition of the word Rowdy 117

Chapter IX

From Corinne to San Francisco. — From the 8th to the ioth of June. The Great American Desert. — The Silver Palace Cars. — Ascent of the Sierra Nevada. — Cape Horn. — Arrival at San Francisco . . . 127

Chapter X

San Francisco.— From the ioth to the 13TH of June, and FROM THE 22ND JUNE TO 1ST JULY. Its Origin. — The Pioneers. — The Reign of Pikes. — The Vigilance Committee. — Commerce and Trade. — Wells and Fargo. — Growing Reaction against the Gold-diggers. — Position, Climate, and Appearance of San Francisco. — Its Inhabitants. — Its Cosmopolitan Character. — AGermanHome. — The Chinese Quarter. — Cruel Treatment of Chinese Emigrants. — Jesuit Colleges. — Cliff House .... 136

Chapter XI

Yosemite. — From the 13TH to the 22ND of June. Way of Travelling. — Modesto. — Mariposa. — The Virgin Forest. — The Big Trees.— The Valley of Yosemite.— The Falls.— Coulterville • 1C3 CHAPTER aII. San Francisco to Yokohama. — From the ist to the* 25TH of July. Departure from the Golden Gate. — Dismal appearance of San Francisco from the Sea. — The Pacific Mail Company. — The China. — Monotony of the Passage. — Reflections on the United States. — Landing at Yokohama 1S2 CONTENTS. XII PART //.—JAPAN.

Chapter I

Yokohama. — From the 24'ra to the 26th ; and from the 28th of July to the 3RD of August ; from the 14TH to the iSth of August ; and from the iSth to the 19TH of September. PAGE First Impressions of a New Arrival. — The look of the Town. — Commercial Movements. — Europeans at Yokohama. 221

CHAPTER IL

Yoshida.— From the 3RD to the 14TH of August. Japan, saving the Trade Ports and the Towns of Yedo and Osaka, always closed to Strangers. — Way of Travelling in the Interior. — Passage of the Odawara River. — The Baths of Miyanoshita. — The Pilgrims of Fujiyama. — The Temple of Yoshida. — The defile of Torisawa. — Hachoji. — Return to Yokohama 234 CHAPTER HI. Hakone. — From the 22ND August to the ist September. The celebrated Tea-house of Hata. — A bad Night. — The Lake of Hakone. — The love of nature and the taste for art spread amoti" the People. — Spirits travelling. — The Hot Springs of Atami. — The Holy Island of Enoshima. — Daibutsu. — The old Residence of the Sioguns. — Buddha in Disgrace. — A great Japanese Lady. — Kanazawa CONTENTS. XIII

CHAPTER IV.

i'EDO. — From the 26th to the 28th July; from i*ke i8th to THE 22ND AUGUST ; FROM THE 3RD TO THE 13TH SEPTEMBER ; AND FROM THE J4TH TO THE ISTH SEPTEMBER. rA7.s General Aspect. — The Neighbourhood. — Visit to Sawa, the Foreign Minister. — German School. — The Shiba and its Art Treasures. — Evident but inexplicable influence of Italian Taste. — Conversation with Iwakura, the new Minister. — His plans of Reform. — Shops. — Silks and Curiosities. — The Temple of Meguro. — Saigo. — The Sanctuaries of Ikegami. — The Forty-seven Ronins. — Feast at Sawa's. — The Palace of Hamogoten — Dinner at Iwakura's.— The Prime Minister Sanjo. — At the Temple of Asakusa. — Dramatic Art. — A Japanese Vaudeville. — Lay Figures. — Yedo at Night. — A dinner at the Restaurant Vaozen. — Audience of the M'.kado. — The English Legation. — Departure

CHAPTER V.

Osaka. — From the 19TH to the 22nd September. Kobe and Hiogo. — The Bar of Yodogawa. — Osaka. — Its commercial importance. — Its general appearance. — The Street of Theatres. — The Castle of Taiko-Sama. — The Chi-fu-ji 3J5

CHAPTER VI.

Kiyoto. — From the 22nd to the 25TH Si.ptember. On the Yodogawa. — Fujimi. — The Capital of the West. — The Palace of the Mikado. — The Castle of the Siogun. — The Temples. — Vie^v of Kiyoto. — Guiun-Machi 347

CHAPTER VII.

The Lake of Biva. — From the 25TH to the 27TH September. Otsu. — The Lake. — Ishiyama. — The Governor and his Dai-sanji. — Owaku. — Udji. — Return to Osaka. — The Arts in Japan . . . . 370

CHAPTER VIII.

Nagasaki.— From the 2Sth September to the 2nd October. Papenberg. — Detsima. — Native Christians. — Political position of Japan 3^^ CONTENTS. XIV PART ///.—CHINA.

CHAPTER I.

Shanghai. — From the 3RD to the 8th October, and from the 14TH to the i6th November. PAGE The different appearance of the "Concessions." — The Chinese Town, Su-kia-wei. — A symphony of Haydn performed by the Chinese. — The Sisters' Orphanage. — Fluctuations in the present state of Trade . . 445

Chapter II

Pekin. — From the 8th to the 29TH October. The weariness and length of the voyage to Pekin. — Che-fu. — The Bar of Taku. — The Pei-ho. — Tung-chow. — Arrival at Pekin. — General aspect of the town. — Scenes in the streets. — The Temple of Heaven. — Confucius and Buddha. — The great Llamaserie. — Shops and Chinese Curiosities. — The Jesuits' Observatory. — The last word of bureaucracy. — Pei-tang. — The Portuguese cemetery. — The tombs of the Mings. — Nan-kow. — The Mongolian Chain. — The Great Wall. — The Summer Palace. — The Climate of Pekin. — -The Imperial custom houses intrusted to strangers. — Mr. Hart. — Position of the Diplomatic Corps. — The question of audiences. — Visit to Prince Kung. — Departure

Chapter III

Tien-Tsin. — From the 31ST October to the 7tii November. The Settlement.— The Chinese City.— The Serpent-God.— The Club of Celebrities of Shiansi. — The Massacres 525

Chapter IV

Hong-Kong. — From the 7TH to the 25TH November. The amenities of the Yellow River. — Appearance of Hong-Kong. — Its commerce. — Its political and military importance CONTENTS. XV

Chapter V

The Christian Settlements of Se-non. — From the 25TH to the 27TH November. PAGE The villages of Si-kung, San-ting-say, and Ting-kok. — History of the Christian settlements of the district of Se-non 578

CHAPTER VL

Canton. — From the 2Sth November to the 2nd December. The Canton River. — Shamicn. — Elegant shops. — A bonze's head. — ■ The Temple and Convent of the Ocean Banner. — Eng and his house. — Procession of the God of War. — The Great Prison. — The Pretorium. — Visit to the Viceroy. — Fati. — City of the Dead. — The Place of Executions. — Departure for Macao 5S2

Chapter VII

Macao. — From the 2nd to the 4TH December. The decay. — The question of the coolies. — Progress of the Chinese element. — Camoes 602

Chapter VIII

Homeward Bound. — From the 6tii December to the 13TH January. Departure from Hong-Kong. — The missionary question. — State of China as regards its relations with European powers. — Arrival at Marseilles 609

Appendix

. Summary of Events which took place in Japan, from September 1S71 to September 1872.— Extract from a letter from Yokohama, April 1S72.— Extract from a letter from Yokohama, October 1S72 . . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CHINESE MERCHANT Frotlli p'ea BROADWAY, NEW YORK .... To face sage 16 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK ... ,, 19 GREENWOOD CEMETERY, NEW YORK . . ,, ,, 22 THE BANKS OF THE SUSQUEIIAXNA . . ,, 36 CHICAGO ,, ,, _|4 GENERAL SHERIDAN ..... ,, ,, 49 GENERAL SHERMAN ,, ,, "2 BRIGHAM YOUNG ..... ., ,, 94 THE GREAT AMERICAN* DESERT . . ,, 128 TRAVELLING IN A KANGHO ... ,, ,, 2 .6 JAPANESE BED ,, „ 262 GATE OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE AT YEDO ,, ,, 309 IWAKURA TOMOMI ,, 3-3 MR. ADAMS . -..,, TAIKO-SAMA . - . , " >> 34+ ON THE YODOGAWA . - .0 .* >) 34*J SHANGHAI . .,0 THE SCHOOLMASTER . . „c„ PRINCE KUNG ;j -,0 HIS EXCELLENCY AVEN SIANG . . . ., t --, ARCHDEACON GRAY AND THE BONZE . . ,, rgg -?0RT SAID „ 64S