Tahiti, the Garden of the Pacific, etc

Front matter

TAHITI: THE GARDEN OF THE PACIFIC. BY THE SAME AUTHOR. VIA NICARAGUA. "A readable account of a journey from New York to San Francisco, written in graphic language." — Morning Post. " Mrs. Hort relates her experience with spirit and good humour. The ride on mules from Lake Nicaragua to San Juan del Sud was through a pathless forest, deep ravines, and rocky precipices, and crossing of mountain torrents. Those who have read Mr. Belt's ' Naturalist in Nicaragua' will be prepared to feel with this authoress a wish that they could explore the beauties of such a region without so much discomfort." — Illustrated News. "A pleasant narrative of the travels of a lady under difficulties." — Vanity Fair. " Is one of the best records of travel we ever read, because it is picturesque, brings the route before one's eyes, and has never a suspicion of the glorified guide-book style."— Pictorial IVorld.

" Mrs. Hort's voyage is described with a certain amount of picturesque effect, as is the wonderful loveliness of nature which made the traveller forget discomfort and danger." — Spectator. " Mrs. Hort preserved some racy and graphic recollections of her voyage ; the sketch of tropical forests and their denizens are very good. The book is pleasantly written and worth reading." — Glasgow Herald. " There is much in the book to form pleasant reading, and also to give information to the non-travelled reader as to the scenery and characteristics of some of the most striking parts of tropical and western America." — The Queen. "The hardships of the overland transit, the tropical scenery, the writer's personal adventures, and the peculiarities of her various companions in adversity, are vividly described.

The description from the pen of a fellow countrywoman of the unscrupulousne-ss of the American speculator and agents throws Martin Chuzzlewit's adventures into the shade." — Athenæum. "A sketch of travel, an account of privations endured in a voyage from New York to San Francisco may serve to while away an idle hour, and no doubt when in the form of pleasant letters home, was eagerly welcomed by Mrs. Hort's relatives and friend*." — Saturday Review. /z&^y •fa tw etsy^ZAJ-ijLpjL*- j4-A^LLl-oJ-t*. TAHITI THE GARDEN OF THE PACIFIC BY DORA HQRT AUTHOR OF " VIA NICARAGUA," ETC WITH FRONTISPIECE Eontion T. FISHER UNWIN PATERNOSTER SQUARE THIS VOLU.ME IS DEDICATED TO MY MUCH ESTEEMED NEPHEW, W. H. LEVIN, OF WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO TAHITI ... ... 7 II.

Chapter I From San Francisco To Tahiti, Had

always been under the impression that the Polynesian Islands attracted to their shores none but religious denominations, that Otahiti and missionaries were synonymous, until undeceived by A , who described to me the South Pacific in such marvellously glowing colours that it induced me to accompany him to Tahiti, the beauty of which he had in no way exaggerated. We sailed from San Francisco on board a small clipper brigantine of 160 tons, called the Emily • which might have passed for a yacht had it not been for the absence of a flush deck and the cargo she carried. A half-deck house occupied most of the space aft, leaving merely a vacant corner near the wheel, where I had my sea-chair placed, and there I sat in close proximity to the silent helmsman. A few steps led down to the main cabin, which was divided into a small saloon with dinner-table, stationary benches, and four open berths, besides the captain and officers' state-rooms.

At meals the captain sat in an imposing arm-chair at the head of the table. The second compartment was much smaller, and when necessary could be added to the tiny saloon by throwing back the folding-doors. It contained only two state-rooms, one of which was allotted to Margaret my maid, A and I occupied the other — an arrange ment that suited us in every respect, as it secured our privacy, though there was only one other passenger besides ourselves, a Frenchman, who revolted me daily by floating down his throat two pills in his first spoonful of soup ! The captain was a thorough John Bull, short, stout, and florid — a striking contrast to his chief mate, who was tall, thin, and angular. The cook was an Italian and a chef par excellence ; it was really inconceivable how he contrived to concoct so many tempting dishes out of canned provisions, of which our fare principally consisted.

Beppo was our trump card, who evidently annoyed Captain Sutton by persistently coming to me for orders. I could not make him comprehend that, though the owner's wife, I was simply a passenger, without authority in the internal manangement of the vessel. Our steward proved a snare and delusion. A little niece of mine in San Francisco had unearthed him from a dilapidated hut outside her mother's fence. Her attention had been drawn to the spot by either the harmonious or inharmonious notes of an accordian — an instrument I never could endure — played within a clump of stunted oak trees which curiosity led the child to examine, where she discovered a huge negro whose pitiable tale of want e.xcited her sympathy. His name, he said, was Isaac, and he declared that he was absolutely starving, that he would be willing to work for his food if he could find employment.

Hearing this the little girl ran off and told her mother, who hastened to satisfy the man's hunger ; she subse quently employed him in odd jobs, and finally he got promoted to indoor work. Amongst ourselves we had decided that Isaac was in all probability a runaway slave, an impression that was confirmed when he implored me almost with tears in his eyes to let him accompany us to Tahiti. He had heard that the captain of the Emily was looking out for a steward and begged for the position, asserting that he understood the duties, and was not a sufferer from sea-sickness, which was an essential point. Out of commiseration for his distress, which I construed into fear of being caught by his owner, I used my influence with A , who engaged him as our private steward. During the first two or three days of our voyage the weather was intensely disagreeable, so boisterous that the Emily was like a mere cockle-shell in the trough of the sea ; she rolled, pitched, and trembled, to my utter discomfort.

As to my maid, she was so fright fully sea-sick, that when I heard Isaac was in the same deplorable condition and unable to do his work, I commiserated his sorry plight, though I had to admit that he had grossly deceived us on that very point. But when the sea subsided and the vessel glided on her course with no perceptible motion, and our steward still continued to shirk his duties, I concluded that the wretch had taken us completely in and was making no effort whatever to disguise the fact. He had gained the end he had in view — his escape from San Francisco, where his master was very likely hunting for him — and as idleness was more con genial to him than work, lies and deceit more natural to him than truth and honour, he had made up his mind not to fulfil any part of his contract if he could possibly avoid doing so.

Depend upon it there were many more Isaacs than Uncle Toms among the Southern negroes ! Beppo, in consequence of the steward's non appearance, had, for the time being, to perform double duty, an imposition to which he submitted most cheerfully. A sudden squall sprang up one morning when Beppo was crossing the slippery deck with an armful of plates. Captain Sutton shouted to him to close the skylight. Naturally he had to enter the cabin first, so as to deposit his burden in safety ; he had barely effected his object before the captain rushed after him, looking like an infuriated bulldog, and, notwithstanding that I stood by, he grasped the man's neck and struck him repeatedly in the face. I was horrified at witnessing such brutality, and hurried away as fast as I could in search of A — — , whom I implored to come and put a stop to the disgraceful scene.

I pronounced the captain's conduct to be perfectly scandalous ; A was of the same opinion, but explained that he could not possibly interfere between the captain and one of his crew. From this I judged that Captain Sutton had availed himself of the earliest opportunity to let poor Beppo know who was his real master. For my part, I considered such brutality an abuse of power, and I retraced my steps to find the ill-used man laying the breakfast-table with anything but a placid counte nance. His face was bruised and swollen, his shirt torn to shreds and stained with blood, as were his trousers ; his scowling face indicated a capacity for some murderous deed which impressed me uncom fortably, and I tried to propitiate him by expressing my indignation at his being subjected to such treatment. I blamed the captain unstintingly, which I fear was an unwise proceeding, but I was overflowing with compassion for the poor fellow's sorry plight.

A gave me a shirt and trousers for Beppo, which I begged him to wear in place of those he had'on. He took the clothes, but, to my intense disgust, [continued to appear in his very objectionable garments ; if with the object of annoying the captain, he no doubt suc ceeded, for it must have been extremely aggravating to him to have constantly before his eyes the evidence of his outrageous conduct. Beppo imparted to me in confidence that out of consideration for the signora he had abstained from mortally injuring the man who had dared to strike him, but that as soon as we reached Tahiti he would have his revenge ; but I imagine that long before then he had reconsidered his threat. The poor fellow had experienced very hard lines. He had accumu lated a small capital during the Crimean campaign, when he had held a lucrative position as chef on board an English frigate.

After the war Beppo made his way to California, where he established himself as a Restaurateur in a large mining district, and did a thriving business until his premises caught fire, when he lost everything he possessed save the clothes he stood in. Unable to resume the same line of business for want of means, Beppo resolved to try his luck in Australia, where he had friends, and was working his way thither, which explained how a chef of his ability came to be cook on a craft such as ours. A little Scotch terrier that I had brought with me became an especial pet of the captain's, and was allowed the run of the vessel. She slept in the cabin, and was always on hand at meal-times. Her regu larity was so noticeable in this respect that the first time she failed to be in her usual position — begging — we all exclaimed, "Why, where is Rosy?"

In vain we called her name ; the captain's familiar whistle also remained unanswered, and Rosy never reap peared. No one was more active in searching for the missing dog than Isaac, who finally suggested that she must have fallen into the hold and got jammed among the cargo. As it was impossible to make a thorough examination of the hold, her fate remained a mystery. One morning, when I occupied my sea-chair, the man at the helm suddenly addressed me : " We hope, lady, that you don't suspect any of us sailors of having made away with your little dog? " As the man's tone implied even more than his words, I did not hesitate to question him further, and had no difficult}' in eliciting the truth — that the black FROM SAN FRAaYC/SCO TO TAHITI. 13 monster had thrown Rosy overboard. A sailor on watch saw him do it, and heard him mutter, "You damn filthy beast, I'll take good care that you don't make your bed on my trousers again."

Then came a whine and a splash. The cowardly deed had occurred before daylight, and was therefore supposed by Isaac to have been unperceived. Completely outraged I carried my complaint to Captain Sutton, hoping in my heart that he would rope's-end the wicked wretch to within an inch of his life. What, then, was my amazement to hear him call Isaac forward, and tell him to return to the fore castle, and never show his ugly black face aft while we were afloat. I was utterly confounded and indignant at his displaying such leniency, and exclaimed, " Good gracious, Captain, can you not punish a heartless brute like that with more severity ? " He coolly replied, " He is your servant, not mine " ; and in this way the inhuman rascal failed to get his deserts, as A also declined to meddle with him — I trust not on account of the man's colossal stature !

The weather was delightful and most enjoyable, a smooth, rippling sea, balmy breeze, and e.xquisite phosphorescent lights. I then saw and tasted for the first time flying-fish, and very delicious I found them. Everything was agreeable save the pumping which took place at the change of each watch, a precaution which induced me to believe that a leak existed somewhere or another, but I could obtain no satis factory answer to my numerous questions on the subject. The novelty of a fresh fish on my breakfast plate made me ask how I came to be so especially favoured. " We pumped it up last night," promptly replied the captain, an avowal that staggered me. I looked askance at the fish, debated whether it could have floated through bilge water without taint; fancy ing myself unperceived I stooped and smelt it.

" Oh, it's none the worse," said Captain Sutton. " If you are doubtful, pass it over to me," came from A . I certainly was doubtful, but yet it looked so tempting, so crisp and yellow, and I had had such a surfeit of canned salmon, sardines in oil, and anchovies, that I ventured on tasting a morsel, which was repeated until the entire fish was consumed — it weighed con siderably less than twenty pounds. After breakfast I took A aside for a little private confabulation. " Mustn't there be an immense hole in the bottom of the vessel to admit of a fish passing through ? " I asked. We were crossing the line at this time, and Margaret expressed a desire to see it. The telescope was handed to her, which she applied to her eye, and presently exclaimed, " Yes, indeed, there it is as plain as plain can be."

A hair had been previously drawn over the focus. As we sailed farther south the heat increased, and the cockroaches in proportion ; and such cockroaches ! Never before had my eyes lighted on any thing in the form of insect life that was half so disgusting — monstrous things, with wings as trans parent as were those of the flying-fish, but, unlike them, they smelt horribly, and tended to render me nervous and uncomfortable, for I was constantly changing my position to avoid coming in contact with them, so repugnant were they to me. One night I was on the point of getting into bed, when, to my horror, I saw a huge cockroach on my pillow. I rushed out and screamed to A , who hurried down the companion steps, expecting to see me or the cabin in flames. He pooh-poohed my consternation, but I insisted on having the repulsive thing killed, though it was nowhere to be seen, the trunks and bags scattered about, to say nothing of a multiplicity of crevices, afforded ample means of escape, but when A made the haphazard state ment that it was gone I declared that it was not, and, moreover, vowed that unless the lifeless body of that cockroach was produced I would sit up all night.

He at first treated this as an idle threat, but when he perceived that I was serious — a mild term for obstinate — he called it making a ridiculous fuss about nothing ! An offensive reptile with wings like a bat, nothing, was too much for my injured feelings, it caused me to indulge in tears and to have recourse to any alter native rather than share my pillow with this nothing, which I felt convinced was still in the berth, so I sat up in an arm-chair. A attempted to dissuade me and then tumbled into bed himself, leaving me to a unit blanche, which I passed, nursing my resent ment at his utter want of sympathy. The next morning he offered the olive-branch by sending for the ship's carpenter, whom he instructed to line the entire state-room with canvas, which effectually ex cluded these unwelcome visitors.

The temperature of the cabins and state-rooms became so intolerably hot that it induced extremely early rising ; we were usually on deck before sunrise, where we partook of delicious coffee or chocolate served with rusks. How charming were all these novelties to me, and how delightful to sit in a loose, thin wrapper, thrown over an equally thin night-dress, one's bare feet encased in slippers, inhaling the pure air — what little there was of it — watching with rapt attention the sun, resembling a globe of fire, emerge, as it seemed, from the ocean itself, tinging the grey firmament with glowing hues, and the fleecy clouds rolling upwards shaded off to the palest pink ; it was indeed a resplendent sight, but the sunset even surpassed it, producing still more gorgeous tints and more effec tive transitions — the heavens were then ablaze with prismatic colouring, and an ever-changing scene of brilliant lights and shades conjuring up a succession of panoramic views, wherein distant mountains were gradually transformed into fiery forests with the forms of a variety of animals clearly traced among the flaming trees, imperceptibly metamorphosed into a barren coast with vessels displaying blood-red sails, d la Flying Dutchman : a pageant which my pen fails to portray as it merits ; to be thoroughly understood and appreciated such scenes require to be witnessed.

As the sun, still resplendent with its halo of dazzling rays, sinks lower and lower on the horizon ,the transi tion of colouring is marvellous, paling in the waning light to grey the sky becomes illumined with myriads of twinkling stars, celestial gems and blessed har bingers to the watchful mariner. The rainbows in these latitudes are likewise wonder fully effective ; the reflection on the water gives them a complete oval shape rather than an arch, and also produces the impression of there being two bows instead of one. I loved to study the variety of vivid hues employed in their beautiful irises. " Triumphant arch that fills the sky When storms prepare to part, I ask not proud philosophy To tell me what thou art ; My heart leaps up when I behold A rainbow in the sky. So was It when my life began ; so is it now I am a [.vojman ; so be it when I shall grow old, or let me die."

As we approached nearer to the Tahitian coast we espied some distant low-lying islands, our first glimpse of land, nor up to that time had we sighted a single craft. It was twenty-three days since we had left San Francisco, and we were then about ending what had been to me a most delightful voyage. The sun had set, but there was land ahead, as we could discern the faint lights on shore, and still more distinctly flaming torches on the reefs, — which separated us from our haven, — used by natives to attract fish to the surface of the water ; a balmy breeze wafted the perfume of many an exotic from terra firma so tanta lizingly near, yet out of our power to reach in consequence of the intervening barrier of corals, a boundary that necessitated the process of continual tacking. The constant flinging down of huge coils of ropes over my head, the flapping of sails, and vociferous shouts from captain and mate precluded sleep, so I went on deck and sat inhaling the fragrant air, while -> admiring the effect of the moon's rays on the cocoa nut palms, the long trunk surmounted by crests of large, gracefully drooping leaves.

Groves of these palms fringed the shore ; I needed no telescope to distinguish them — happily so for me, as it was an article I never could use advantageously, though I followed instructions, closed one eye and opened the other to see nothing. The Tropics had a peculiar charm for me, and I was looking eagerly forward to seeing Tahiti by daylight ; the grey tinge which precedes it, and imparts such a mystic effect was already perceptible. I was so absorbed watching the gradual changes of light and shade that I had not remarked how close we were to the land until aroused by the sound of the captain's stentorian voice ; sails were wildly flapping under a general slackening of ropes, sailors hurrying to and fro : what did it mean, if not some fearful catastrophe ? I hastened to our state room where I found A shaving, apparently totally indifferent to the excite ment and noise over his head, neither did my rather incoherent explanation stop his operation, though I told him we were high and dry on the reefs and going to pieces.

My report produced an incredulous smile — he could not speak because his lips were covered with soapsuds — when crash went the falling anchor, and, regardless of his lathered face, he rushed on deck and I after him, as the unusual noise made me fear the worst. The sea-breeze had sprung up so suddenly and unexpectedly that the captain found himself actually between the reefs before he could manage to shorten sail, and not being sufficiently experienced to pilot the vessel through the passage, he judiciously dropped the anchor at Taunoa. It was a risky position not withstanding this precaution, and A looked anxious. Our approach to the coast had been announced from the semaphore at Papeeti the previous evening, and as the arrival of any vessel creates lively inte rest, many eyes were watching our movements with dismay ; they saw with consternation the error of pointing our course for the Taunoa passage instead of that of Papeeti, which is more usually resorted to, at that early hour, and our vicinity to the reefs created genuine fear of the consequences.

We had hugged the land much too closely, and our having anchored where we had done, gave the impression that we were on the reefs, instead of between them as was our more fortunate position, but viewed from Papeeti the grave supposition spread that a complete wreck was not only imminent but unavoidable. Boats were forth with manned and sent to our rescue, but our situation was found to be far less perilous than had been an ticipated. The Emily however, was obliged to remain at her anchorage until the tide served, which was not till late in the afternoon, but A 's private boat was on its way to fetch us, and while we awaited its arrival I availed myself of the'opportunity to admire, a volonte', the beautiful island that was henceforth to be my home. " Tahiti, the Garden of the Pacific," a title well bestowed, was the impression I formed from that short distance.

With what silent rapture did I gaze on those mountains of varied and peculiar formation, seeming to comprise the exterior of the island, whereas there were lower lying hills and a wide belt of table-land clothed with tropical growth, as indeed were, more or less, the higher eminences. Prolific in every acceptation of the term is the vegetation on these islands, where many of the trees are equally fragrant, ornamental, and productive. Under fine umbrageous trees nestle native huts either near a river or within view of the sea. From the Emily's deck Tahiti was seen to the best advan tage, or, more properly speaking, the environs of Papeeti — its principal town and seat of government — which were at first shrouded in sombre hues and then brightened by the sunbeams which cast fitful shadows on the mountain peaks and crevices, while heightening the beauty of the bread-fruit palms and banana leaves, which give a tropical aspect wherever met.

As soon as A 's boat came alongside we lost no time in stepping into it, and the row down to Papeeti between the coral reefs was a treat that quite repaid me for our delay ; it was an indescribable scene of prismatic tints. The excrescences resembling branches of trees, distended fans, or rosettes of varied dimensions, were seen through the pellucid water, while still deeper down was a nether continent where fish of all sizes, shape, and colour, disported among aquatic plants in a region of their own — marvels of nature hitherto unknown to me, which excited my curiosity and enthusiasm as we calmly glided towards Papeeti. It is hard to reconcile oneself to the idea that such impregnable reefs can be the work of an insect, a microscopic labourer of the lowest order of life — and to a novice like myself wonders never ceased.

Cling ing to the coral were shellfish resembling small porcupines : one of the rowers dipped his hand into the water and detached one for my inspection ; it was covered with sharp spikes. As I was informed that the natives ate them I concluded to taste one myself, and found it very similar to an oyster in flavour but the flesh was softer and more watery. On landing at Papeeti I was surprised at the seeming sparseness of inhabitants : scarcely a native was to be seen on the beach, much less a European. I afterwards learnt that the population repose during the heat of the day — pretty much as they do in other tropical climes — transact business in the early morn ing, and reserve the evenings for amusement.

Chapter II First Impression Of Papeeti, Am

about to quote some statistics derived from old archives for the benefit of those whom they may interest. The island of Tahiti rests on a volcanic shell, the summit of which is as nearly as possible a mile and a quarter above the level of the sea. The highest mountain is called Orohena, 7,250 feet above the sea-level. The Oarai, 6,576 feet, so nearly resembles a crown in shape that the French have rechristened it La Diademe. It is the first distinctive feature that strikes the eye on sighting Tahiti. The peninsula of Tairabu, 7,150 feet in width, is united by the isthmus to the island of Tahiti. On the highest elevation is situated the fort of Taravao, which is 4,600 feet above the level of the sea. The river Punavia courses through an extensive valley ; it was there that the French, in 1845, en countered the Tahitian forces, resulting in the most FIRST IMPRESSION OF PAPEETI. 23 sanguinary battle ever fought on the island.

The brave natives defended themselves gallantly, but they were outnumbered, and inexperienced in the art of modern warfare ; their defeat obliged them, malgre' eux, to accept the French Protectorate. The Tahitians, had the choice been theirs, would have much preferred the English flag floating over their beloved island — a flag that would have ensured a degree of prosperity which could never be acquired under the existing laws, by-laws, and counter-laws, which form a most unsatisfactory triple system in all its bearings. The French are undoubtedly bad colonists. Too much administration is, and ever will be, their bane. A preponderance of useless officials who pass their time in framing every description of aretes, many of them being detrimental to both commerce and agriculture, besides causing much annoyance to all classes and conditions of society, annoyances that I am fain to admit were not borne unmurmuringly, as I used to hear most uncomplimentary remarks about the authors of their subjugation.

I myself could not deny that the term Protectorate was a palpable misnomer, for even at that period the island, inclusive of its dependencies, were to all intent and purpose a French possession, ruled, as it seemed to me, with unnecessary severity. The natives had to either work without pay for the government, or be imprisoned. The class of officials who made it their business to meddle in what did not concern them were principally young ensigns and middies, in whom was vested an amount of authority which they rarely failed to abuse. Whether this course was approved by the governor or vice-governor must remain an open question. The French who migrate to Tahiti are of those who possess neither the adequate means nor the ambition to become planters of anything beyond vegetables. Whereas the Administration was very desirous to organize cultivation on an extensive scale, to insure this they held out very favourable promises to foreigners as an inducement to undertake what their own compatriots were unable to attempt.

In one instance these offers were accepted in good faith, but no sooner had the property been acquired and labourers employed, than the Government had re course to such measures as to preclude the possibility of ultimate success. But I anticipate. Why such adverse measures should have been so invariably adopted I am unable to explain, but during my long residence on the island I never knew the Administration to pursue any other, nor could I help remarking that straightforward, hearty encouragement was a thing unknown. In fact nothing succeeded at Tahiti unless through such questionable agencies as bribery and corruption. Tahiti possesses an unexceptionable climate, a delightful land-breeze prevails throughout the night, and a sea-breeze during the day ; a more equable temperature could not be found in any part of the globe, while the scenery, for variety and sublimity, could not be surpassed.