In and around Stamboul

Front matter

CONSTANTINOPLE DURING THE CRIMEAN WAR, . * - CONSTANTINOPLE DURING THE CRIMEAN WAR. BY LADY HOKNBY TOt'tfj 3llustratfons in " The European with the Asian shore Sprinkled with palaces : the ocean stream, Here and there studded with a seventy-four; Sophia's cupola with golden gleam; The cypress groves ; Olympus high and hoar ; The twelve isles, and more than I c?\Ud dream, Far less describe, present the very view Wliich charmed the charming Mary Montagu." Bthon. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY PUBLISHES IN OBDINABY TO HEB MAJESTY. 1863. PE1NTED BY JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR, LITTLE QUEEN STEEET, Lincoln's INN FIELDS. Eo tfje Jlemorg OF A GOOD AND KIND MAN, THOMAS HORNBY, ESQ, OF OAI_FLELD, REIGATE, &igc<5£ liters, MANY OF WHICH AVERE WRITTEN FOR HIS AMUSEMENT IN ILLNESS, ARE NOW DEDICATED, AS A SLIGHT TOKEN OF LOVE AND REGARD.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. ♦ Some feAV years ago a Work entitled ' In and Around Stam boul ' aa as published, of which a very limited number of copies Avere printed. These Avere immediately disposed of. The Author, on her return to England last year, remo delled and made considerable additions to her narrative. The present Volume, besides these additions and altera tions, is enriched by some very beautifully coloured litho graphs from the tasteful pencil of her friend Mrs. Walker. THE PUBLISHER. London, November, 1863. Page 11 CONTENTS. — ♦■ —

Letter I

Voyage to Calais. — Journey to Paris. — Arrival. — Soldiers. — Festivities. — Journey to Marseilles. — "Valley of the Rhone. — The Alps. — Avignon. — Embark. — Scene on Board. — Sisters of Charity. — An Evening on Board ........... 1

Letter II

A Night at Sea. — Party of Nuns. — Fellow-Passengers. — Corsica. — Music on Board ........... 7

Letter III

Arrival at Malta. — Sunday Morning. — Ramble through Malta. — Peast and Church of St. John. — Harbour of Valetta. — Return on Board. — " The Isles of Greece." — Capes Matapan and St. Angelo

Letter IV

Syra. — A Greek Hostelry. — Pirates. — Evening. — Smyrna. — The Bazaars. — Ramble through the City. — The Church. — The Slave-Market. — The Baslii-Bazouks. — Gallipoli. — The Dardanelles. — Approach to Constantinople. — The Bosphorus. — Landing . . . . .22 [

Letter V

Pera. — English and French Officers. — News of the AVar. — Therapia. — Shores of the Bosphorus. — Fall of Sebastopol. — Public Rejoicings. — Sisters of Charity. — Illuminations . .7 . . .32 CONTENTS.

Letter VI

Pago Therapia. — Its pleasant Climate. — Fleet at Anchor. — Beicos Bay. — Depth and Clearness of the Waters of the Bosphorus. — Phospho rescent Illumination at Night. — Sad Incidents of the War. — AVounded and Sick Officers arrive from Balaklava. — Their Conversations. — The Attack of the Redan . . . . . . . . .38

Letter VII

Tlensant Mornings at Therapia. — Greek Fishermen and Feluccas. — Sea- Birds, and Legend of the " Ames Damnees." — Many-coloured Fish of Ihe Bosphorus. — Terraced Gardens. — Ships returning from the Crimea. — The Camp at Buyukdere . . . . . .42

Letter VIII

A Canine Friendship. — The Camp at Buyukdere. — A Search in Vain. — A AAlld-Dog Hunt. — Love at first Sight. — Strange Arrival at an Hotel. — A Jackal. — Disappointment . . . . . .48

Letter IX

Valley of the Sweet Waters. — Picturesque Groups of Turkish Women. — The Sultan's Daughter. — Turkish Belles and Babies. — Turkish Carriages. — Arabas and Telekis. — Vendors of different Wares in the Valley. — Boiled Indian Corn. — Musicians. — Anatolian Shepherd. — English Sailors. — "Bono Johnny." — The young Pasha. — The Valley at Sunset . . . . . . . . . .56

Letter X

News from Home. — Invalids from Scutari and the Crimea. — Chat about the AArar. — Sardinian and French Officei-s. — The Commissariat. — Scenery of the Crimea: — Ramble through the Sultan's Valley. — Ancient Plane-Trees and Fountain. — Dinner on Board the 'Elba.' Buyukdere at Night .66

LETTER XL

Hospital at Therapia. — Its Garden and Burial-Place. — Grave of Captain Lyons. — White Cross erected in Memory of those who fell in the Crimea .......... _, CONTENTS. IX

Letter XII

Page Beauty ofthe Bosphorus. — Fishing-Village on the Asian Shore. — Turkish Cemetery and Graves of the Janissaries. — Ruins of the Castle of Anatolia. — Turkish Soldiers 79

Letter XIII

Village of Kadikoi. — Sea of Marmora. — Landing at Pera. — Stamboul. — Its Silent Streets. — Behind the Lattice. — The Sultan. — His kind and merciful Disposition. — Desolateness of Constantinople. — Variable Climate. — The Turkish Loan. — Cholera at Yenekion . . .84

Letter XIV

Palace of the Sultan at Begler Bay. — The Bosphorus after the Attack on Sebastopol. — Difficulty of transacting Business with a Turkish Ministry. — Wretched State of Turkish Affairs. — Caiquejees, their Dress and Appearance. — "Bono" and "no Bono." — A proposed Kiosk at Orta-kioy 95

Letter XV

Stormy Weather. — Storms in the Black Sea. — Loss of Sardinian Troops. — Removal to Orta-kioy. — Voyage. — Rough Sea. — Arrival. — Difficulties. — Armenian Neighbours. — Fire-Guns at Night. — Roll of Drums and Discharge of Musketry at the Sultan's Palace at Daybreak . 102

AAlnter Life on the Bosphorus. — Armenian Bishop. — Bill of Fare. — The Pianoforte. — Cures for Neuralgia. — Wrecks from the Black Sea. — Poor Jews .......... CONTENTS. XI

Letter XXVI

Page Going to a Ball. — The Teleki. — Journey to Pera. — Monuments.— Administration. — Dolma Batche. — Bad Roads. — Cemetery at Pera. — Cypresses. — Soldiers. — Illuminations. — Ball at the Embassy. — The Sultan. — Chief of the Eunuchs. — A Bear at the Ball. — Espinu's Enthusiasm . . . . . . . . . .194

Shepherds. — Flocks. — The Greek Lent. — News from the Crimea. — Turkish Cemetery. — The Village of Orta-kioy. — An Armenian Burial. —Funeral of a Child 226

Letter XXXI

Visit to the Harem of — ■ — Pasha. — News from England. — Ladies of Stamboul. — Chief of the Eunuchs. — Interior of the Harem. — Dresses of the Ladies. — Circassian Beauty. — Dresses. — Hospitality in the Harem ........... 235

Letter XXXII

The Franks. — Arrival of Spring. — Ladies' Dresses. — Changeable Climate. — Omar Pasha and the Relief of Kars. — Knavery of the Pashas. — The Greek Easter. — Festival-days at Constantinople. — Change for a Sovereign. — A Lonely House. — A Storm ..... CONTENTS.

Letter XXXIII

I'ago Wintry Weather. — News of the Peace. — The Rejoicings. — A Visitor from the Crimea. — Crimean Amusements. — Letters from Home . . 263

Letter XXXIV

Excursion to Princes' Islands. — Scenery of the Bosphorus. — Prinkipo. — Visit to a Convent. — The Ancient Chapel. — Curiosities. — Carvings and Pictures. — Beauty of the Island. — Return in the Dark. — A Night on Board 267

Letter XXXV

Shores of the Bosphorus. — Tomb of Barbarossa. — Antiquities. — Dress. — " Apple-Blossom." — Sympathy in Misfortune. — Schooling. — Greek Names 275

Letter XXXVI

Tea-Party. — Visit of a Turkish Gentleman. — Morals in Turkey. — Pashas. — The Sultan. — Fashion of learning Music. — Troubles of a Music-Master in the Harem. — Flowers. — Jasmine-sticks. — Pipes. — A Village Burnt ......... 280

Celebration ofthe Queen's Birth-day. — The Fele-Dieit. — Illuminations. — ' The Night of Destiny.'— The Sultan's Visit to the Mosque of Tophana. — Night of Prayer. — Prince Murad ..... 338

Letter XLV

A Sail on the Bosphorus.- — The ' Belle Poule.' — Strawberry-gardens. — Last Day of Ramazan ......... 344

LETTER XLV

I. Visit to a Harem. — The Children. — Ramazan. — The Dinner. — Hassan Bev. — Harem of Ali Bey. — Nocturnal Meal during Ramazan . . 347

Letter XLVII

Visit to a Harem. — Dilbir Adah. — Bought and Sold .... 358

Letter XLVIII

End of Ramazan. — Illuminations. — Night. — Palaces on the Bosphorus. Feast of Bairam. — Torchlight Procession of the Sultan. — Ceremony in the Mosque of Tophana . . .... CONTENTS. XIV

Letter XLIX

Pa c A Stroll.— The Bosphorus.— Turkish Arsenal.— Suburbs of Constantinople. — Poverty iu the East. — Kiosks. — Storks. — Turkish and Greek Dresses. — Scenes on the River. — The Sweet Waters. — Scenes on Shore. — The Sultan's Kiosk. — The Sultana and her Daughter. — Evening Scene. — Return from the Sweet Waters . . .373

The Princes' Islands. — The ' Edith Belina.' — Signor Giacomo. — Church on the Island .......... 400

Letter LIII

The Sultan's Banquet. — Turkish Artificers. — Thunderstorm. — Long Days. — Vassili's Misbehaviour. — Domestic Changes . . . 404 LETTER L1V. Order of the Medjidi. — The Sultan's Dinner-Party. — The Palace. — Thunderstorm. — " Commissary Joe." — Visitors from the Crimea . 407

Therapia. — Greek Village. — Roman Reservoirs. — Service on board Ship 448

Letter LIX

Climate and Scenery. — Paradise of the Greeks. — Boating Excursions. — The Monastery of St. George. — The Old Gardener. — His Summer Residence. — ' The Magyar.' — American and Greek Ladies. — Greek Homage to Beauty. — Burning a Caique. — Fishing by Night . .451

Letter LX

Excursion to Maltape. — Greek AVomen and Turkish Cafanee. — Marble Fountain. — An Ancient Tree. — The Mosque. — The Imaum. — Village School. — Turkish Women — Curious Lamp ..... 462 LEITER LXI. Old Churches and Monasteries. — Ancient Manuscript. — Tomb of St. George. — A Picture of St. George and the Dragon. — Donkey Processions. — A Greek Beauty. — The Superior of the Monastery. — Curious Paintings. — -A Legend. — Lunatics. — Tree-frogs . . . .471

Page Boatmen's Songs. — Greek Singing. — Specimens .... 490