Tanganyika: eleven years in Central Africa

Preface

I HAVE before me, in my own handwriting, nineteen little books of notes and records of voyages, travels, and work in Central Africa, much of their contents being but abbreviated aids to memory — altogether about 1000 pages of MS., which, if copied without extension, would themselves fill a large volume. I have been asked, however, to write within a limited space a history of the Central African Mis sion, in the prosecution of which those records have been accumulated. It is very desirable that it should be so complete as to record, as far as possible in consecutive order, all the leading events of that Mission, but it is evident that it cannot be more than a rapid glance over those events : it can be but a sadly insufficient memoir of my eleven comrades who lie buried along the line of work described — but a brief notice of the eleven others who, until failing health and other cir- X

PREFACE.

at the request of many friends, it is placed before the general public, instead of being only addressed to the missionary constituency. It is thus presented to the general reader, not as an apology for missionary work, nor as a report of it specially drawn up to attract him, but as the report of a missionary for the information of his friends and supporters laid open to public perusal. I trust it may interest the general reader, and per haps serve to remove some doubts and clear up some misunderstandings in the minds of those not accustomed to peruse missionary reports, as to the character of that enterprise ; may serve to remind the general public that the overland routes and systems of navigation, and the wholesale reconcilia tion of native tribes to foreign visitors, by means of which present - day explorers and exploiters of Africa are able to explore and exploit, are due to missionary enterprise ; and to remind them that if a handful of peaceful men can make roads, build settle ments and houses and boats, can live amongst and barter with and enter into every practical relation ship with the native tribes of interior Africa without conflict or disturbance — that if this is so, the general public would be perfectly reasonable in demanding, as I think they should, that all others representing

PREFACE.

XI us and our purposes and action in Africa should prosecute their work in like peaceful manner. I make no pretension whatever to literary skill ; the reader will kindly remember that this is but a sailor's yarn : a sailor's yarn about work connected with the profession I have persistently followed from boyhood — followed it (in the enterprise described herein) to its farthest limit, by surveying my own sea and building my own craft, for the best possible purposes, the welfare and elevation of men. I also disclaim any connection with political party (through long isolation in Africa), or with commercial interests (because I have none whatever), or religious prejudice (because I believe in the inscription on Livingstone's tomb) ; excepting al ways my individual share in our national respon sibility for the political, commercial, and religious welfare of the millions of Africans who are now our fellow - subjects or the subjects of our protection, whose valuable produce and extensive consumption of our manufactures have enriched us, whose lands are being so widely parted out amongst us, and an earnest desire that these responsibilities should be fulfilled in accordance with the professions we make in the British Constitution, the printed principles and charters of the companies, and our Christian religion.

PREFACE.

I have deemed it unnecessary to add yet another to the many maps of Africa, and so I am able to say that all the maps herein presented are drawn from my own measurements and observations. The other illustrations also are entirely original, and drawn with sympathetic care by Miss Stevens from my own descriptions, photographs, and sketches ; " Crossing the Rukigura " and " Ujiji " being based upon sketches by Rev. A. W. Dodgshun and Dr. Southon, and the " Camp in Ugogo " from a drawing by Bishop Hannington. EDWARD C. HORE. LIST OF CONTENTS CHAP. PACE I. Preparation 3 II. Forward ! . . . . . . . . 13 III. Westward Ho ! 43 IV. Ujiji 67 V. The Cruise of the " Calabash " . ... 105 VI. The Heart of Africa 129 VII. Through much Tribulation 169 VIII. Filling up the Gaps 1S9 IX. Building and Ship-Building 227 X. The " Good News " at Kavala .... 257 XI.

Looking Backward and Forward . . . .291 ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS Panoramic View of Ujiji Frontispiece PAGE Portrait of Author vi The Way to the Work 2 Crossing the Rukigura River 12 A Night-Camp under Baobab Tree ..... 42 "Their Anxiety to get out quickly" .... 66 Surveying in the "Calabash" 104 Heart-Throbs of Africa 128 The Lord of the Lake 151 That Leviathan that playeth therein . . .151 The Sea of Ujiji 168 The Largest Central African Expedition . . . 188 Special Survey of the South End 226 Kavala Island 256 The S.S. "Good News" on Lake Tanganyika . .

Chapter I Preparation

prepare you .victuals." b THE WAY TO THE WORK.

CHAPTER I PREPARATION

1876-1S77 THE year 1876 was a remarkable one in the history of missions to East Central Africa. The Scotch Missions (aided by a grand special subscription list of ;£i2,ooo) had already launched their little steamer, the Ilala, on Lake Nyassa, and were busy establishing the well-known station at Livingstonia. Bishop Steere and his party, representing the Universities' Mission, were exploring also in the direction of Nyassa and seeking positions for stations. The Church Missionary Society had despatched a pioneer party to commence operations on the Victoria Nyanza. Early in the same year Mr. Arthington of Leeds, by a liberal offer of towards "the purchase of a suitable steamer and the establishment of a TANGANYIKA 4 mission station at some eligible place on one of the shores of Lake Tanganyika," tested the enterprise and the faith of the London Missionary Society, whose representatives for so many years had borne a noble testimony in the southern regions of the con tinent of Africa.

Should this Society, so honoured and blessed elsewhere, take her share of responsibility in the newer enterprises ? should she occupy what might perhaps prove the most important position in the whole region ? that beautiful central lake, from the shores of which Dr. Livingstone had written to the Christians of England, " Come on." Dr. Mullens was at that time the Foreign Secre tary of the Society, and to his indefatigable efforts in collecting information for the guidance of the directors, and in awakening the interest of the Society's supporters for special and continued help, and to his personal attention to every detail of expense and procedure, the determination to take up this new enterprise, and much of its suture success, was largely due. And in its interests he finally laid down his life.

On I 5th March it was finally decided to go forward. Mr. Roger Price, a well-tried veteran African missionary, proceeded to Zanzibar to make a short preliminary journey, specially with a view to judging PREPARATION 5 of the best means of transport for a missionary expedition to the interior, it being hoped that the bullock -waggon of South Africa might also be utilised here. In the months of June and July, while the pioneer party of the C.M.S. were engaged in examining some of the rivers in the hope of utilising boats, Mr. Price was making an examination of the roads in the hope of utilising wheeled vehicles. His journey to Mpwapwa and back gave the supporters of the proposed mission every encourage ment, both as regards the disposition of the tribes and the possibility of the new mode of transport.

Further money was subscribed, and preparations were made for a start on an efficient scale. Amongst the most important elements in the opening up of East Central Africa was the at once prompt, courageous, and considerate action of Sir Bartle Frere, when circumstances both gave us the opportunity and demanded our interference for the suppression of the slave trade on that coast. And the same able statesman, who at the right moment was prepared to enforce justice on behalf of the oppressed, was prompt also to urge the prosecution of such Christian teaching amongst the tribes as would bring about their enlightenment and civilisa- TANGANYIKA tion, and strike at the root of the evil among them by a complete change of thought and life. In the appeal of Sir Bartle Frere to English Christians to extend this good work, he calls special attention to the suitability of the " General Instruc tions for Missionaries of the London Missionaiy Society."

The experience that had led to the fram ing of that code had been to a large extent African, and the most illustrious of African missionary names were connected with it. It would be expected then that the preparation for such an undertaking as the new mission to Central Africa would be efficient and extensive, and so it proved. In the " Instructions " drawn up for the guidance of the pioneer party, nearly every difficulty was anticipated, nearly every detail of success suggested and provided for. The necessity for industrial and medical auxiliaries, the care of health, the methods of meeting the peculiarities of life and thought of the natives, the positions on the map desirable to be held as connecting with the operations of other societies, and helping to form a network of Christian effort, were all provided for.

At the same time the work was so far new in its locality and circum stances that its agents were warned that " the pre- PREPARATION 7 sent should be reckoned a provisional period, during which many things of which we are now totally ignorant will have to be examined and learned for the first time." Especially was the work, at the outset, to include a special effort to introduce an improved mode of transit (the bullock-waggon as used in South Africa), which it was hoped would not only secure speed and economy to the missionary operations, but be a means of efficiently opening up the country generally. For this purpose, and for the various requirements of life and work in such an uncivilised country, there were provided two waggons and eight carts specially constructed, six other carts from India, an extensive outfit of tools of all kinds, besides implements, household and camp outfits, and provisions, as well as the rope, canvas, and gear for rigging a boat for Lake Tanganyika.

It was an outfit wonderfully complete. Only in one direction was it impossible to arrange before hand, and that was as to its quantity ; and to ensure success this was made so ample that it proved afterwards to be more than could be conveyed by the first expedition. The surplus formed a less harmful subject for criticism than a deficiency would have done. TANGANYIKA The choice os the personnel of the expedition also exercised all the experience and discretion of the directors, but was finally completed, along with the preparation of the various stores, in ample time for the travelling season of 1877. The Central African Mission was eventually to be carried on by the same organisation, of a District Committee of its members, as in other places ; but for the long and arduous journey, the leadership was placed in the hands of the senior member, and certain duties apportioned to each one ; the chief responsibility to descend in turn upon them, in case of death or removal, in the order of their seniority.

Here is a list of the party selected : Rev. R. Price. J. B. Thomson. „ E. S. Clarke. A. W. Dodgshun. Mr. E. C. Hore. „ W. HUTLEY. Messrs. Price and Thomson had already for many years represented the Society in the interior of South Africa ; Mr. Clarke was engaged in mission work in Pondoland, and was to join the PREPARA TION 9 expedition at Zanzibar ; Mr. Dodgshun was a new and well-fitted recruit from Cheshunt College ; and Mr. Hutley a joiner and builder. Four of the six, therefore, were specially trained and experienced Christian teachers ; two (Messrs. Thomson and Dodgshun) had received special medical training ; three were well experienced in the conduct of bullock-waggons and African travel ; and the others brought their professional skill in navigation and building into the work. All of them, full of zeal for its prosecution and faith in its success, went forth with the blessings and prayers of thousands of Christians in England, who believed with them that the Gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ, lovingly proclaimed and faithfully lived by His servants, is the true Light for the darkest places of the earth.

Chapter II

FORWARD! " Let us go up and possess the land." if not through then over — but always forward ! (Crossing the Rukigura River. (From a Sketch by the Rev. A. W. Doclgshun.)

CHAPTER II FORWARD

! 1S77-1S78 ON 6th March a meeting of the Board of Directors was held to bid farewell to the pioneer party. In encouraging words they bade them God-speed, and commended them in earnest prayer to His keeping at whose call they were going forth. Mr. Wright, of the Church Missionary Society, was also there, and in loving words expressed the sympathy of that Society and their desire for co-operation in the Central African field, where their several parties would often travel the same road. On the evening of the same da)' a public valedictory service was held at the Memorial Hall, Farringdon Street, where particulars of the intended enterprise were again set forth to a large assembly of the supporters of the Society and the representatives of other missionary societies, who enthusi- TANGANYIKA 14 astically expressed sympathy with the work, and determination to support it.

Thus, with the prayers and blessings of the churches, the brethren were sent forth upon their mission. Messrs. Price and Dodgshun proceeded round the Cape in order to visit Port Elizabeth and Natal, to enlist necessary waggon-drivers and leaders, and purchase a few draught-oxen to help the breaking-in of the new and raw beasts to be purchased on the east coast. They hoped also to pick up Mr. Clarke at Natal on their voyage northward to Zanzibar. Messrs. Thomson, Hutley, and myself arrived at Zanzibar, by way of the Rea Sea, on the 27th May ; with us came the carts and waggons, provisions, and general stores of the expedition. A firm of English merchants, afterwards Messrs. Boustead, Ridley, and Co., acted as financial and business agents there ; and through them the engagement of native servants, the purchase of barter goods, hire of dhows for conveyance to the mainland, etc., were transacted.

They now forward letters, cash drafts, and otherwise form a connecting link between those up country and home supplies and support. Two days afterwards, Messrs. Price and Dodgshun arrived by the Cape mail-boat, bringing with them twelve colonial bullock -drivers and twenty oxen. FORWARD I 1 5 Only two more days were taken up packing and unpacking and making various purchases, for as the camp was to exist for some weeks at least near the coast, Zanzibar would still be easy of access for further business. On 2d June Messrs. Price, Dodgshun, and Hutley proceeded to the mainland with the first three dhows, conveying the drivers, the bullocks, and the wheels and sections of two waggons and four carts, but they did not finally sail till seven next morning. On 5 th June two more dhows were loaded up with the remainder of the carts and the stores for first use, and Mr. Thomson and I sailed in them, landing at Saadani on the morning of the 6th.

The first party found an empty house made ready for their reception by Bwana Heri, whose friendship Mr. Price had secured on his previous visit. They could not have lost much time, for the first sight that met our view on landing was a team of twelve oxen yoked to one of the waggons, and gaily careering round the level plain outside the village. That evening the whole party met together in their house in Saadani, and on African soil renewed their self-dedication to their Master's service in that land. By Saturday night all the carts were jointed and TANGANYIKA bolted together ; one of them had been driven to Ndumi and back, and it was decided to move on to that place and form a camp for training bullocks and otherwise preparing for the journey. On Monday, i ith June, the two waggons were loaded up with all necessaries, and the whole party, starting at eleven o'clock, made their first move to Ndumi, where a position was chosen and a camp made for residence and work.

The distance was nearly six miles, the time taken four hours. It seems poor work, yet it must be remembered that this party of six had to move everything they re quired for life and work apart from any outside help ; it was like a gipsy party moving food, clothes, bedding, kettles ; everything, not only for the next meal, but for the next month, must be packed some where. And then for the road : a wheel of the first waggon comes against a stump and the whole caval cade has to stop, put down what they are carrying, get out implements and remove the obstruction, and pack the tools away again before starting afresh. The four hours notwithstanding, that journey was considered by all as a grand success, auguring well for the future. Ndumi is a village on the top of a hill, which slopes away from it on every side.

The centre of FORWARD ! 17 the village is a small clear space at the foot of two immense baobab trees ; the houses, low rectangular structures, thatched with palm leaves, and a tall cocoa-nut tree here and there rising high above the roofs. There was a stockade round the village at one time, but it is broken down in many places, and in others well-nigh hidden amongst heaps of ashes, maize husks, and other domestic refuse. The site itself is splendid, and, to one standing at an opening, which would be the eastern gate, if one existed, and ignoring the dirt heaps, the outlook is very fine. Down over the tree-tops, five miles away, lies the sea-beach, with its fringe of plainly discernible cocoa nut trees, amongst which nestles the long straggling coast town Saadani. Twenty-five miles over the sea, Zanzibar looms up like a cloud on the horizon, and dotted about in the strait are a few of the Arab dhows that do the coasting trade and keep up communication between the island and the main.

Far away, north and south, the same long line of beach extends — on one side of it the wide sea stretching away into the hazy distance, and land ward gradually rising undulations of tree-tops as far as the eye can reach. Westward, a space of corn and pumpkin patch, and then all beyond the same c TANGANYIKA sea of tree-tops, giving the idea of limitless forest and jungle. But to a closer view there are plenty of open spaces, broad grassy glades in the valleys, and isolated clumps of denser jungle or forest and bush well scattered and affording free passage between. Ndumi is 360 feet above sea level, and has a climate distinctly more healthy than that of Saadani. A quarter of a mile to the north, and on a semi open and level space slightly below the village, we formed our camp. With its white canvas and straight lines of tents and waggons it made a remarkable feature in the scene.

The front of the camp was a long rough railing of poles, the large central opening in which was formed of two straight young tree -stems stuck in the ground, with a lintel across the top. From the ends of this railing the two sides commenced alike with a large bell-tent, and then one of the waggons. Beyond these, one side was continued by the quarters of the native servants and helpers and the cooking place for the missionaries, and the other side by the quarters and cooking place of the Kaffir bullock drivers and the enclosure for the cattle : all being partly huts, partly rail and fence of grass and FORWARD I 19 branches and poles, any little gap serving as entrance in the daytime being stopped up at night with branches of thorns. The back of the camp con sisted of a row of carts drawn up in regular array, each having its tarpaulin stretched over and pegged to the ground, forming a shelter.

A large open space was thus enclosed ; near its centre the space about a waid olive tree formed a sort of citadel or headquarters, where stood the tent of the leader of the expedition, and a large trestle table affording a general meeting-place for meals and conference. On the topmost branch of the tree itself a staff was fixed, bearing the Mission flag, with its peaceful device of the dove and olive-branch. Here lived our party of six, the Kaffir drivers, and ten or twelve Swahili workmen and servants, while the work of preparation was going on. The camp was daily a busy scene of visiting, bartering, and work of all kinds. Chiefly at that time the camp was regarded by the natives as a cattle market, for the white men were always crying out for " more oxen," and buying them daily. At daylight every one, white and black, would muster to the sound of the bugle.

After a hasty cup of coffee, we commenced work at once in our several departments : one to get food bought and prepared for the TANGANYIKA 20 community, one seeing to the oxen, one to barter for those brought for sale by the natives, and every one busy. Later on we would gather under the olive tree for breakfast and prayers, and after a mid-day rest, all perhaps turn out to a general exercise of bullocks, first drawing large bushy trees and after wards carts. The new purchases, placed one by one amongst the trained animals, were thus gradually initiated into the details of their new bondage. The gradual arrival of the various stores from Zanzibar, the purchase of barter goods, and other arrangements, often took some ofthe party to Saadani or Zanzibar, between which places constant com munication was kept up.

On the 3d July, the party was completed by the arrival in camp of Mr. Clarke. During six weeks of this life much had been done ; much, indeed, had been " examined and learned for the first time." We had found that it would be impossible to convey to Ujiji the whole mass of stores with which we were provided ; but it might well be cause of congratulation all round that our provisions and tools exceeded in liberality of supply all our needs, rather than of regret or implied failure in not carrying up country all that we had ; for after all, the object of the expedition was the forward! 21 entrance and establishment of the men themselves in the country. In very careful and united conference these supplies were thinned down again and again, to adapt them to our powers of transport, — items of personal outfit being repeatedly sacrificed in favour of stores for the general welfare of the Mission.

We had all had a good taste of the " Mukunguru," or seasoning fever, but we had gained experience as well of native character and of life and work gener ally. We had procured, and to a great extent trained, over ninety oxen, and prepared the harness and gear of waggons, tents, and outfit. And, perhaps most hopeful of all, we had already attached to ourselves a few native helpers, who greatly aided us. Imagine one of our number — after hours of hard labour with the bullocks under a tropical sun, the thermometer, even under canvas, at over 900 — returning dusty and knocked-up to his tent, eager "just to lie down." In his tent door his "savage" servant meets him : " Oh, sir," he says, " you will get fever if you lie down like that ; here is the water and towel all ready, and dry clothes " ; and by per suasive manner and ready means leads his master into the simple refreshment that will secure the best rest, and probably prevent illness.

TANGANYIKA 22 Another one I have known, over and over again, follow for miles with a kettle in hand, and at the right moment, when we have been perhaps resting for a time beneath a tree, produce without trouble or fuss a cup of tea or a dish of stew, which we should never have taken the trouble to arrange for. All this is very pleasing, and still more hopeful as indicating possibilities for still better things. Two of the colonial bullock-drivers, however, had already proved utterly unfit, and had been sent home. Wednesday, i_thjuly. — Passing clouds, but no rain. 6 A.M., prepared for a start, packed up provisions, etc. ; struck pantry tent. Natal ox with broken horn was killed to save his life, and disappeared at once into small rations. Swahili men proved active and willing. After breakfast, struck camp in reality, packed up pots and pans — packed everything possible into the waggons ; remainder of bedding, with cooking gear, bags of provisions, etc., packed for carrying, and when at last all private effects were got out of tents, struck them and packed them up, and about noon six carts and a waggon were under weigh for Ujiji.

Amidst all our difficulties, which are many, and indeed four of our party indisposed, it was pleasing to excitement to see the vehicles at last actually moving on our route. Mr. Price, however, had to do a good deal of bullocking himself, and evening found us in camp, only three-quarters of a mile west of Ndumi. Early in the afternoon I went on with the tents and goods which were being carried, and set up a camp in a suitable position, so that when all the party arrived they found FORWARD I 23 dinner ready and beds made. This has been a very good day's work. After dinner I went back with my man Hamees to the old camp, to stay by the stuff (one waggon and one cart), where I found the faithful Hassan duly keeping watch with some chums gathered round the fire feasting on beef. The above is a piece of my private journal.

One little incident of that day's work will never be forgotten. As the waggon stuck in the soft ground just outside the village, all its inhabitants turned out to look at the wonderful sight, and were chiefly astonished at the hard work being done by the " white men." In the midst of a pause in our work, — dusty, hot, and perspiring, — I addressed a native woman : " Mother, bring me a drink of water." The woman turned at once into the village and brought a supply of water, which was handed round in a gourd bowl. This little incident seemed suddenly to make all akin — the natives were pleased, and our party cheered. The next day the remaining waggon and cart were brought on, and camp No. i abandoned. Soon after, another Natal ox died, but a purchase of eighteen native beasts made our number up to 126.

On the 30th, another day's journey took us not quite half a mile farther ! and at that camp, TANGANYIKA 24 No. 3, it was decided to take back four carts and five cartloads of goods, a measure which was promptly carried out next day, and the goods care fully bestowed in a house at Ndumi, under the care of Bwana Heri of Saadani. Thus lightened, the party proceeded with the two waggons and three carts, and a party of sixteen native porters carrying personal outfit and camp equipage. With numberless adventures and enor mous labour, the expedition reached Msoero, a tidy village of Wamakua, about 130 miles from the coast, on 4th September : a journey of forty-two days from Ndumi. At this time Mr. Mackay, of the Church Mission ary Society's Expedition which had gone in the year before, was coming coastwards.

From Mpwapwa, hearing of our effort with the waggons, he was taking careful notes as to the best road for the purpose, and cutting a track for us through some of the worst places. At one of these we were delighted to find a timber bridge across a nasty gully, over which our waggon-train passed in safety, and the whole caval cade halted and gave " three cheers for Mackay." When he met us on the road he stayed a day with us, during which he and I worked side by side with pick and shovel, showing the natives how to make a FORWARD ! 25 road ; and during subsequent intercourse we initiated him into the mysteries of bullock -training, etc., and so in various ways we aided each other in these practical operations. Mr. Price, in his preliminary inspection of the east coast countries, had found the superiority of the portion of the road commencing at Saadani over that from Bagamoyo, and our friends of the C.M.S. had adopted that as the best ; but Mr. Mackay now recommended a recurrence to the Bagamoyo road in the neighbourhood of Mchiropa, which proves to be the best (in this its latter half) at certain times of the year, for although it is less healthy, it is rich in food, and being less hilly is more easy travelling, at least for wheeled vehicles.