Australia and the East: being a journal narrative of a voyage to New South Wales in an emigrant ship, with a residence of some months in Sydney and the Bush, and the route home by way of India and Egypt in the years 1841 and 1842

Front matter

AUSTRALIA AND THE EAST. AUSTRALIA and THE EAST BRING A JOURNAL NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES IN AN EMIGRANT SHIP WITH M, ilml-tnte of some jaontfjs in SpimejD anil tf>e iStisf), AND THE ROUTE HOME BY WAY OF INDIA AND EGYPT, TN THE YEARS 1841 and 1842. BY JOHN HOOD, OF STONERIDGE, BERWICKSHIRE. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. MDCCCXLIII. LONDON* : HK AD BURY AND (EVANS, I'lcINTKRM, WHITKKKf AHv I TO THOMAS COCKBURN, Esq., ROEHAMPTON, THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED BV HIS AFFECTIONATE RELATIVE. THE ADTHOR. r-ge ERRATA. 88, Dinth line, for his, reail thia. 117, fourteenth line, for bondB, rca**/ roads. 126, nineteenth line, for is, read are. 135, fifteenth line,/o*- granted himself, read acquired. 15H, third line, for set up, read set. 161, third line from foot, for load, read any thing. 25fi, first line, for here, read at Windsor. 317, noto at foot, for written, read extended. 335, tenth lino from foot, for 1840, read 1840-1. 335, fifth line from foot,/or 1840, read 1839-40. 354, thirteenth line from foot, for alone, read only. 371, tenth line, for system, commencing, read system, or commencing. 375, ninth line, for interest and the, read first. 383, second line, for occupied, read passed. 442, fourth line, for horses, read horses I am told. 447, eighth line, for dashed, read dashed aside. 455, sixth line, for stand, read remain. 457, third line from foot, for inviting in its soft plumpness, read most inviting. PAGE I CONTENTS.

Chapter I. The Voyage Out

Reasons for leaving England — Leave Berwick — London — Go on board ship at Plymouth — Our fellow-passengers and officers — Scene on board an emigrant ship — Desertion— Mode of obtaining sailors — Observations on emigrant vessels — Weigh anchor — Sunday — Modes of killing time — Journals — Auspicious commencement of our voyage — A fresh breeze — Slow progress — Internal arrangements — The evils ofthe sea— Our exporlei — Scarlet fever on board — Irish emigrants — Storm — Scotch songs — Fine weather at sea — A meteor — Danger of fire on board ship — Foul wind — Discomforts — Time at sea — Disturbance — Colours of the ocean — Severe storm — Ejected from my bed — Divine service at sea— Madeira in sight — A man overboard — Gallant attempt to rescue him — Accident from the fall of the boom — Vineyards of Madeira — Smoking — Flying-fish — Our occupations — Provisions — Sands of Africa — Heaving the log — Cape de Verd Islands — An intruder — Phosphoric light — Winds — Dress — Noise a-board ship — Porpoise — Crossing the Line — Booby bird — Motion of the vessel— A whale — Island of Trinidad — Accuracy of our chronometers

Chapter II. The Voyage Out

Dinner arrangements — Table talk — Change of climate — Rapid run — Thc albatross — Violent storm — Dutch ship — Signals — American vessel — Yankee reckonings — Our meals during a storm — Extreme cold— CONTENTS VIII i'ai.i: Privations of the sailors-Gale of wind-Mountainous waves-D,s turbancc among the emigrants-Awful tempest-Moral danger of a long voyage-Sunday on board ship-Lewis de Bernstingle-Capc Horn-Island of St. Paul's- Albatross caught- Violent storm-Fear ful damage to thc ship-Providential preservation-Repairs-Narrow escape from fire-Drunken steward-Loss of our carpenter— Long list of damages-First sight of Australia-Van Diemen's Land-The Pacific— Cuttle-fish— Line of the Australian coast— Bass's and Tor res' Straits- Narrow escape — Shameful neglect— A brickfielder— Heads of Sydney— Botany Bay— Reports relative to the state of the colony— New Zealand boatmen— Severe storm— A bumper at parting— Night of peril— Fortunate change of weather— Land in the UUsh— Walk to Sydney — A breakfast on shore .... 13

Chapter III

AUSTRALIA— SYDNEY. Sketch of the history of New Holland— Its first discovery by the Dutch — Captain Cook — Australia selected as a penal settlement — Rapid rise of the colony — Ignorance respecting it in England — High estimation in which it is now held — Early discoveries in the country — Port Jackson — The first settlers — Botany Bay — Port Philip — Port Adelaide — Swan River — Moreton Bay — Sydney — First impressions ofthe town — Its beautiful situation — State of commercial affairs — Embarrassments of Government — Claims of our surgeon — Appearance of Sydney — Its streets and shops — Numerous public houses — High rents Want of drainage — Order and decency preserved — The people Their features and figures— Prudence of the ladies— Absence of beauty Universal use of carriages — A primitive four-in-hand— Rapid locomotion—Sir George Gipps— Old government-house— The new mansion —The churches— Dr. Lang— Public buildings— Market— Court-house — Royal Hotel— Hints to young settlers— Materials of the houses- Suburban villas— Absence of porters and cabs— Amusements— Theatres— The convicts— Internal communication— The Roads— Nature ofthe sod— Beautiful prospect— A review— The weather— Lightning CONTENTS.

PAGE — Precocity of the females in Australia — Damp clothes — Thc botanical gardens — The bench and the bar — Visit to a suburban villa — Hospi tality—The chief of G—y 76

Chapter IV

AUSTRALIA— THE BUSH. My eldest son and his partner Mr. . — Connobolas — His brother leaves me to join him— Their meeting — My eldest son joins me at Sydney — Costume of the bushmen — Coolness — State of the colony — My own view of things — Hot wind — Purchases — Start for the bush — Paramatta — Frogs and locusts — Bad roads — Bungarrabee — Paramatta factory — The inns — Penrith — Droughts — Change in the character of the country — Bushrangers — Insecurity of property — Guyon — Frederick's Valley — Class of settlers suited to Australia — Succession of crops — Seed times and harvests — Native birds — Length of the days in Australia — Graveyard — The boundary of the colony — Connobolas — The Gunyah — Impressions on first seeing my future abode in the bush 1 1 1

Chapter V

AUSTRALIA— LIFE IN THE BUSH. Connobolas — The woods — Advantages and disadvantages ofthe Station — Our mansion — The upper station — Our next door neighbours — Fare in the bush — Damper — Elegances of life — James Simpson — Loss of our horses — Frequent loss of stock — The birds and plants of Connobolas — Visit to Boree Nyrang — Sheep-shearing in Australia — Australian agriculture — Absence of any winter — ■" The settlers" — Trying times — The corrobory — Native customs — The King of Boree — The natives — Dress — Marriage — Origin of the race — Their customs and food — Cannibalism — Religion — Their diminished numbers — Laws regarding murder — The Australian ibis — Pine range — Large gum-tree —Bullock drays — Their drivers — Their oaths and drunken habits — The convicts — Opinion of their own position — Travelling in Australia Sunday in the bush — Removal to the Upper Station — Houses in the bush — Our domestic arrangements — The bushrangers — Their un- , 1 1 M* I- NT-*. PACE X ,,,,,,.,!„ pr.xiniitv-Keeping open house-The native dogs-Ophthalmia— Snow— Our complete seclusion .

Chapter VI. Australia-like In The Bush

Mode of spending our time-Rivers-The swamp-oak-Stalactitc caves -Difficulty of forming a decided opinion as to thc merits of the colony- Advice to settlers-Appearance ofthe country-A bird's-eye new— Brittleness of the trees-The various species of trees common in Australia— Thc whole country one vast forest— The principal plains— Loss of a flock of ewes— Mode of" planting" cattle— Habits of the bushrangers— " Bailing up"— Recovery of the lost flock- Thunder storm— Expected attack— Unfavourable views of the country — How viewed by the settlers— Visit of King Sandy— Dexterity of the natives in cutting bark— Their language and phrases— My horses lost again— Plagues of the bush— Extremes of heat and cold— Coals — Native superstition regarding fire— Effects of retirement — Out-ofdoors improvements — Sporting in Australia — Bullock-hunting— Whip — Natural wonders— Sunday— My black boy, Jacky — " Tommy Come-last " — Our sheep-washing begins — A runaway convict — The mounted police .169

Chapter VII. Australia- Life In The Bush

Narrow escape of my son and James — Valiant old lady — Losses of sheep — Recovery of my horses — Colonial tactics — Moreton Bay — Improvements at our cottage— Utility of thc sheep in Australia — Great heat — Failure ofthe water — Herous— Start for N . — Mulong Inn — The Bell River — Twenty-mile Hollow— Plain of Nurya— Wellington Valley— Mr. Muir— N Its present appearance— Public scourger at Wellington— Success of the Missionaries in Australia — Rides in the forest— Breeds of cattle— Australian wines— Violent thunder-storm— A hurricane brickfielder— Native grave — Black cockatoo—Leave N —Christmas Day— Uncertainty attending the CONTENTS. XI PAGE carriage of goods in the bush — General view of the colony — Prospects of settlers — Jealousy towards new comers — Improbability of their obtaining unbiassed advice — The necessity of their investing a part of their capital — Losses to the stockholder from disease— Good runs the object of first importance — Artesian wells— Settlers who are likely to do well — Estimate of a young settler's outlay — His profits — The mistakes of young settlers— Wages in the bush — New Year's Day, 1842 — Astronomy — Hail-storm — Escape of my sons — -Sagacity of a horse — Mr. W. — Dreadful droughts — The camel — An event — Determina tion to return to Sydney — Letters from home — "Tommy Come-last" — The boomerang — Dreadful occurrence in the bush— Providential escape of Mr. B . . . . . . . 1 93

Chapter VIII. Aust

R ALIA— SYDNEY. Departure from Connobolas — Early beginning of troubles — Hasty adieus — Solitary ride to Bathurst — Mr. W .. — Intentions of Government as regards the settlers — The bush on fire — Wardrobe for a bushman — Joined by my son — The Sydney mail — The preacher — Scenery on the Paramatta River— Sydney — Meeting with a messmate— Ships for England — Homeward routes — Interview with the Governor, Sir George Gipps — His policy — Sir Thomas M. Brisbane — The assignment system — Anniversary of the founding of the colony — Fatal accident — Sydney newspapers — A Scotch party — The route to Britain by India — St. James's Church — Fire at Connobolas — Arrival of despatches from the English Government — Concessions to the colony — Land funds — The right of pre-emption — Assessment of stock in 1840 — The wool trade — Visit to Windsor — The River Hawkesbury — Richmond — A rural cottage — Visit to Mr. of C . — Roads — Campbeltown- — Drunkenness — Irish colonists — The house and domain atC . — Australian wines — The cow pastures — The Messrs. Me . — Foundation of the wool trade in New South Wales — Grants of land to the Me family — Probable value of their estates — Return to Sydney — Intense heat ... . . CONTENTS. XII PAGE 268

Chapter IX. Australia

Emigration— Free emigration— Emigration by bounty-Ill success of the lower classes of Irish colonists— Emigrant vessels— Statistics of New South Wales— Scarcity of females— Exhortation to emigrate— Cooley labour— Transportation— Sketch ofthe rise ofthe colony- Australia no longer a penal settlement— The assignment system— Its ■bases and advantages — System of Captain Macconochie at Norfolk [aland — Its success doubtful — The gardens at Sydney — The Australian Club — Fish at Sydney — The William Sharpies— Departure of my son for the bush — Sailor's funeral — Rain — The storekeepers — Their sharp practice — The Australian Club — Its advantages — Its disadvantages to young colonists — The barracks — Municipal Government — Present state of the city — Stores for the bush — Corner inlet — Australian varnish — Water in Sydney — Political meeting — Its abrupt adjournment — Thc Rev. Mr. Cowper — Major, " the king of Macquarie" — The Bishop of Australia — Exotics — The botanical show — Heavy rains — Route by India determined upon

Chapter X. Australia

Adjourned meeting— Petition for a representative legislative assembly —The probability of success— Rejected petition— Difficulties attending the formation of such a constitution— Strictures on Australia in the British Parliament— The different classes of proprietors— Want of middle classes-Probable contests-The franchise-Qualification -No necessity for a second house— The aristocracy— Sketch of the Government of New South Wales, from its first settlement to the present time-General Macquarie-Sir Thomas Brisbane-Sir Ralph Darling-Sir Richard Bourke-Sir George Gipps- Necessity of gradual changes-Proposed alterations in the Government-The Emancipist party-The Emancipist bank-Change of character in ronvic.s-Thc excluded state ofthe Emancipists-Statistics of crime CONTENTS.* PAGE in New South Wales— Education the great remedy— Religious parties— Monetary affairs ofthe colony— The banks— The commerce of Australia— Its exports and imports — Its revenue— The present embarrassments— Plan of debentures— Convict labour— Population of New South Wales— Productions and manufactures of the colony— The press — Payment to the ministers of the various religious parties — Public institutions and companies— Sagacity of a dog — The Roman Catholic Cathedral — Brickfielders — Retrospective view of my stay in Australia— Buckingham's America — Points of resemblance and differ ence between New South Wales and America — Difficulties of inland communication in New South Wales — Fluctuations of the seasons — Objections to the colony — Its advantages — Prospects of emigrants — A short summary of my views on the great questions now agitating the colony 301

Chapter XI. Voyage Home

Leave Australia — The William Sharpies — Delays in paying* the bounties — View of Sydney from the harbour — Inspection of the ship — A runaway — Storm — Contrary winds — Calms — Whistling for a wind — Our crew — Beautiful phenomenon — Favourable change in the weather — Van Diemen's Land — Storms — A terrible calm — Lost sight of Australia — Proposed route from Bombay — Intense heat — Trade winds — The dolphin — Sperm whales — Sharks and pilot-fish — Opium clippers — Our boatswain — The Sailor's Home — The Arabian sea — Ophir — Tarshish — Egypt — The sword-fish — The monsoons — Supposed food of the whale — The Earl of Balcarrass — Bombay — Its position — The roads — The island of Bombay — The Parsees— The cnolera— Letters of introduction — Victoria Hotel— Lights of Bombay — The fort — The native women — Water — Dingys or native boats — Population of Bombay Native children — Cattle — Arabs — Modes of performing the last rites to the dead — Temples — Dwelling houses — Division of labour — Mercantile crisis — Official mystery — Cotton-ship on fire — Cotton — Carriages — Trees and plants — Birds — Out-of-doors hubbub, and indoors quiet — Absence of rivers 376 c CONTENTS. XIV PAGE

Chapter XII. India

Route to Suez-The ox-Municipal government of Bombay-Public buildings-The cathedral-Statue of Sir John Malcolm-Native school -The club-Rainy seasons-Bazaars-Servants-The Government House-Oriental life-Steamer to Suez Sir George Arthur-His first levee — Sepoys — Bungalow of Messrs. L and A •— A silent drive— The interior of Bombay Island— A wealthy Parsee— A snake— Parsee levee— Address to Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhuoy— His noble gift— Schools— Matchmaking— Hospitality in Bombay . • -198

Chapter XIII. Egypt

Leave Bombay in the Cleopatra steamer— Cholera on board— Our course —The engines— Stormy weather— Coast of Africa— Aden— Mocha —Mr. Bell— Fish spawn— Eastern customs— Mount Sinai— The Sea of Suez— Passage ofthe Red Sea— Ezion Gaber— Suez— Difficulty in landing— Leave Suez— The Desert— Mirage — Messrs. Hill and Co. — Newcastle coals in the desert — Cairo— The citadel— The Pyramids — Their date — Mosque — Massacre ofthe Mamelukes— Joseph's Well — The pasha's stables — Bazaar — Bath — Dresses — The Land of Goshen — The Nile — Ali Pasha's farm — Atfeh — Ancient water-wheels — The pelican and ibis — Plagues of Egypt — Chain-gang — The canal — Alexandria Hotel — Lake — Spiral staircase — Dresses of the ladies — Bazaar — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needle — Slave market — The pasha — His palace — Start for Malta — Expenses of the overland route from India — Time occupied thereby — View of Alexandria — The Mediter ranean — Malta — Quarantine — Palace of the Grand Master — Corn — Algiers — Mountains of Spain — Gibraltar — Arrive in England. . .417 AUSTRALIA AND THE EAST.

Chapter I. The Voyage Out

Reasons for leaving England — Leave Berwick — London — Go on board ship at Plymouth — Our fellow-passengers and officers — Scene on board an emigrant ship — Desertion — Mode of obtaining sailors — Observations on emigrant vessels — Weigh anchor — Sunday — Modes of killing time — Journals — Auspicious commencement of our voyage — A fresh breeze — Slow progress— Internal arrangements — The evils of the sea — Our exporter — Scarlet fever on board — Irish emigrants — Storm — Scotch songs — Fine weather at sea — A meteor — Danger of fire on board ship — Foul wind — Discomforts — Time at sea — Disturbance — Colours of the ocean — Severe storm • — Ejected from my bed — Divine service at sea — Madeira in sight — A man overboard — Gallant attempt to rescue him — Accident from the fall of the boom — Vineyards of Madeira — Smoking — Flying-fish — Our occupations — Provisions — Sands of Africa — Heaving the log — Cape de Verd Islands — An intruder — Phosphoric light — Winds — Dress — Noise a-board ship — Porpoise — Crossing the Line — Booby bird — Motion of the vessel — A whale —Island of Trinidad — Accuracy of our chronometers.

Plymouth, May. 12th, 1841. — Had any one foretold to me that I should at any period of my life find myself a passenger on hoard an emigrant ship, bound for Australia, I should not only have felt convinced that he was a false prophet, but I might have been tempted to resent the B LEAVE HOME. ■2 conjecture. So little, however, do we know of our future career in this world, that here I sit in my cabin in the good ship the Lady Kennaway, in immediate expectation of being borne away to that far country. It will not be doubted by those who know me, that I must have urgent motives indeed to induce me to brave so many perils, and to make so many sacrifices of different kinds; and to my friends, the knowledge of the complicated pain and anxiety that must necessarily be my companions, will be sufficient proof of my conviction of its expediency. and With somewhat heavy hearts, my son A myself left our home at Stoneridge in Berwickshire on the morning of Friday the 21st May, 1841.

We arrived at Berwick in time for the London steamer, the Rapid ; which weighed anchor and left the wharf at half-past three. On this occasion she did not at all deserve her name. What with foggy weather, and running aground in the Thames at Mile Reach, we did not arrive at the Tower Stairs till Sunday the 23rd at eleven at night, and we only set foot in the Heart of the world on Monday the 24th. The passage up the Thames is extremely beautiful at this season of the year. The contrast from the cold barren looking coast of Northumberland, the rugged shores of York, and the bare sands of Norfolk, to the rich scenery of Essex, is very striking ; and the banks of the river, studded with gentlemen's seats, and wooded in some places to the water's edge, and abounding in beautiful green fields, is in deed most pleasing.

My young companion was enchant ed ; all was new to him, and he seemed to feel what every stranger feels— the unrivalled richness of Old England. A few days after our arrival in the Modern Babylon, GO ON BOARD SHIP. I agreed with Mr. J. M. of B — Lane, for passages for my son and myself in the ship, the " Lady Kennaway," of 584 tons, bound for Sydney direct. The cabins are excellent, and she stands A 1, at Lloyd's, though twenty-four years old, being teak-built, — a material so trustworthy and durable, that some vessels built of it last eighty years. She was originally in the Calcutta trade, and is considered one of the best vessels out of the port of London, that was ever chartered as an emigrant ship. London was no novelty to me, but to my son it was full of interest, and I rejoiced that he had the opportunity of seeing it before he left the country.

We remained there till Saturday, the 5th of June, when, by Mr. M.'s directions, we set out for Plymouth, to join the ship. We took the Great Western railway as far as Chippenham, in Wiltshire, travelling in that most luxurious way eighty four miles, at the rate of twenty-eight miles an hour ! — from thence by coach, through Bath to Exeter, and reached Plymouth at three o'clock on Sunday. Notwith standing Mr. M. had hurried us down, to get on board ship on the 9th, we were told on the 10th, that it would not sail until the next day. 11th June, 1841. — Friday. — We went on board the Lady Kennaway, in Plymouth Sound ; and on setting foot on deck we instantly perceived, from the confusion that prevailed everywhere, that matters were not ready for our going to sea. We dined on board. The party in the cabin consisted of the captain ; the surgeon, an agreeable -looking man, and an alumnus of Edinburgh, though an Irishman ; Mr. R., an English barrister of most mild and pleasing manners ; Mr. E., a fine youth from the banks of the Tay, son of the late M. of M. ; Mr. N, a gentleman from Essex; my B THE EMIGRANTS. 4 son and myself; one or two other passengers; and the first and second mates of the ship.

The first repast at sea has only novelty to recommend it : although we were within the breakwater, and of course not troubled with much motion, still the difference from the steady table and seats on shore, the peculiar style of the cooking, the slang and professional talk of the officers of the ship, the cold and formal manner of the passengers, each employed in scanning and reconnoitring tlie others,— all contributed to render it uncomfortable; and I felt it a positive relief when we rose from table. If the cabin was deficient in comfort, it was a paradise when compared with the other parts of the ship. There the scene below decks baffles description,— Irish, Scotch, English, Germans, French — mechanics, cottagers, watch makers, and ladies of all descriptions, young, old, and middle-aged.

Some were tolerable in appearance ; but the majority, chiefly Irish, were of the coarsest fabric of woman kind. In the evening dancing was resorted to, to keep all in good humour. I went into my berth, expecting that by day-break we should have weighed anchor and got out of the Sound ; but no such good luck awaited us. By six o'clock six men had refused to work the ship ; and it appeared that out of our complement of thirty-two hands, there were only two that could steer. Our captain had gone ashore ; he was now sent for express ; police-officers were to be procured ; the refractory sailors were forthwith to be sent to jail, and their places to be filled up by others from Plymouth. Here was a plentiful crop of troubles, all leading to the conclusion that sailing was out of the question at present.

It seems that the Jews in London have almost a monopoly in supplying vessels with men : OBSERVATIONS. 5 that these people are in the habit of furnishing sailors, on their first reaching shore, with money in small sums, and with slops, as their wearing apparel is called ; and so get a hold upon them ; — and they, finding themselves inextricably in debt to these grasping extortioners, are glad to get employment through their means. These Jews repay themselves, out of the men's first advance of pay, at an usurious rate, leaving the poor fellows scarcely a choice, and forcing them into any ship they may have contracted to man. In this way men are taken on board without any investigation as to character, and of course often turn out, as they did in this case, most troublesome and worthless. It already appears to me, that there are many alterations which should be made in the arrangements regarding emigration.

No vessel ought to be allowed to carry above two hundred emigrants, even if she be of six hun dred tons burthen : morals, health, and safety, all require this. We are two hundred and nineteen, exclusive of the officers and crew ; in all two hundred and forty nine souls, and the vessel is only of five hundred and eighty-four tons burthen. The ship is overcrowded, the sailors have berths under the forecastle, not fit for human beings to inhabit, and not even water-tight. One sur geon in an emigrant ship is not sufficient : he ought to have an assistant. Were the one medical man to be taken ill whilst disease was on board, fearful indeed would be the state of the helpless passengers. In truth, everything connected with emigration ought to be entirely under the control of government. If it pays individuals so well, as we know it does, it would pay the government also, and probably still better ; and even if it did not, the crown owes it to its subjects removing to a different (HAUGE FOR PASSAGE. part of the realm, for the general good, to take care that no private interest shall benefit at their expense and to their detriment : there would then be a responsible party, and public security that matters would be pro perly managed, as respects suitable provisions, medical attendance, the trustworthiness of the vessels, the suffi ciency of their crews, punctuality in the time of sailing ; and also that the accommodation was sufficient to afford those necessary subdivisions that decency and health imperatively demand.

It is perfectly well known, that even with a properly limited number of passengers, twelve pounds per head would provide wholesome food, and every necessary.* Mr. M. the agent of the Lady Kennaway, receives nine teen pounds from the Colonial Government, and five pounds from the individual going out as an emigrant, or from his master when he goes out as a servant — in all twenty-four pounds ! There is ample room here for a great public saving, and great necessity for a careful examination into the whole matter. We are now, however, fairly afloat in what will be our home for four long months ; and we must make the best of what even at the best must be an evil, and trust to that Power that orders all things wisely and well, that He will preserve us on the ocean, as hitherto upon the land, and return us again in his own good time to those we love.

Should I be spared to execute my present plans in all their extent, few will have seen more of foreign lands, and none lands of more interest. New • This is at the rate of 2s. a day for each adult, on a four months' passage ; a sum larger than is expended in mere food by the generality of emigrants ; this leaves out of £l!j, the sum at present charged, be tween ,£6 and £7 for the fitting up, and other expenses of the vessel" WEIGH ANCHOR. Holland, with an area as large as Europe — India, Egypt, Malta, Italy, France ; — long have I desired to see these countries, teeming with all that the traveller is most anxious to become acquainted with ; and I have now only to hope that I may be permitted to accomplish my under taking. 12th June. — Delays are proverbially dangerous. In stead of the beautiful east wind which has blown for a week past, there is now a south-wester blowing right in our teeth, and, even had we all hands on board, we could not get to sea.

One of the culprits has returned to the vessel ; the rest have been sentenced to a month's imprisonment ; and five new hands have filled the va cancies. 13th June. — Sunday. — We had been in expectation all yesterday of orders to sail whilst the wind served, but when it veered to the westward all hope of leaving our moorings was over. After dinner to-day, at about six o'clock in the evening, when all of us landsmen were showing off our knowledge of the weather, a fine breeze arose right from the north. In an instant all was bustle. Sunday is held by sailors to be a lucky day for leaving port, and the mutual congratulations were innumerable. The order was given to weigh anchor, and in twenty minutes our fine old ship was one mass of canvass, creep ing through the water like a snake, over a smooth sea, in one of the loveliest evenings I ever beheld.

Long experience and close observation do certainly give a wonderful knowledge of weather : a gentleman connected with the port foretold that we should go to sea this night, and he was right : he saw symptoms of a change in the clouds, which others could not detect. I confess that I have more faith in the experience of practical men than SUNDAY ON BOARD SHIP. 8 in the theoretic system of cycles, and returns of similar storms or calms at stated periods. How various must have been the feelings of our pas sengers at quitting the coast of England ! Some, no doubt, were glad to escape from poverty, and perhaps from oppression in their own land ; but many others would grieve to leave it, and were even now, in the very hour of their departure, looking forward to their return to it again at some far distant day.