Columbian Sketches

Front matter

COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. MRS. CLEVELAND COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. BY RUDYARD HOME. DUBLIN : M. H . GILL & SON. 1S95. CONTENTS. Page.

Chapter I.— Going to America ... ... 5 Chapter II. — The American Shore ... ... 12 Chapter III. — New York ... ... 18 Chapter IV. — The American Scrap Book ... 25 Chapter V. — Unprecedented Growth oe New York 39 Chapter VI.— Rich and Rare Irish-Americans .. 46 Chapter VII. — Irish Girls in America ... ... 57 Chapter VIII. — Off to Philadelphia ... ... 65 Chapter IX. — Sojourn among the Quakers ... 73 Chapter X. — Baltimore ... ... ... 83 Chapter XL— Country Life in America ... 92 Chapter XII. — Washington ... ... ... 103 Chapter XIIL— The Stars and Stripes of America 111 Chapter XIV. — Smoky Pittsburo ... ... 119 Chapter XV. — Religious Tolerance Under the Stars and Stripes I ... ... 127 Chapter XVI.— The Bushman's Story ... ... 139 Chapter XVIL — Jonathan at Home ... ... 149 Chapter XVIII. — Chicago ... ... ■•■ 158 Chapter XIX.— The World's Fair ... ... 167 Chapter XX.— The Parliament of Religions ... 177 Chapter XXF.— On the Way to Niagara ... 187 Chapter XXII.— Sunday at Niagara Falls ... 196 Chapter XX1I1. — Boston ... ... ■•■ 206 Chapter XXIV.— The City of the Mormons ... 216 Chapter XXV.— The Nation's Wondrous Park ... 226 Chapter XXVI. —Taking Leave of the Rocky Mountains 237 Chapter XXVII.— San Francisco at Last ... ... 248 Chapter XXVIII.— Down South ... ... •■• 25& Chapter XXIX.— The Present and Future of the United States ... ... 269 Chapter XXX— Canada ... ... ... 283 Chapter XXXI.— Montreal ... ... ... 293 Chapter XXXII.— Canada versus the United States 302 Chapter XXXIII.— Ottawa, the Canadian Capital ... 313 Chapter XXXIV.— Positively the Last Waterfall ... 324 Chapter XXXV— Winnipeg ... ... - 335- Chapter XXXVI.— Towards the Canadian Rockies ... 3+7 Chapter XXXVII.— Vancouver Citt ... ...

Preface

. Hr* There can be little apology offered for present ing this work to the public. I was not forced into the undertaking, nor was it very apparent that the necessities of our times demanded it. I may be permitted to state, that on going to America, nothing was more alien from my purpose than to write upon that country. My object was to enjoy a good holiday and recuperate from the labour and anxiety of a calling, for which I am, perhaps, better suited than a writer on American institutions. As a matter of fact, I had hardly a note for reference, while these sketches were appearing serially. Notwithstanding, I hold myself responsible for every statement here made. Shortly after my return to Ireland, when the usual excitement had subsided and I found my self suffering from ennui and lassitude, I took pen in hand and wrote a descriptive Sketch of Portion of my tour to the Belfast frisk News.

" That's right good, let us have more of it," responded the accomplished editor. I afterwards continued to write, and congratulations pourde in after congratulations, from churchmen, states men, citizens of every degree, until intoxicated with success, no fewer than thirty-seven numbers passed through my hands, and I have engulphed myself, it may be beyond the possibility of re covery. Let it be distinctly understood, that in my character sketches, I have no intention of taking revenge for the more than a century's comical ridicule the Americans have expended on my countrymen. Jonathan's pointed drollery always amused me intensely, and I have no doubt he will receive my remarks in the same jovial spirit. My references to Canada are of necessity im perfect. No one could hope to give an exhaustive account of a country of such vast extent in a few comparatively brief chapters.

The Canadian sketches have been also received with great favour, and I have reason to believe both will meet that general recognition, in their present form, which they elicited, as, week after week, they occupied the columns of the frisk News.

Chapter I

— GOING TO AMERICA. HOW I have longed to visit America, and see for myself the many wonderful things of which I had read and heard so much ! The great Columbian Exhibition, in itself such an attraction, finally led me to decide on this long-contemplated enterprise. Ac cordingly, having made all due preparations, I found myself one beautiful summer morning comfortably located in an Allan Line steamer plying between Glasgow and New York, and steaming out to sea, hardly yet realising the fact. And now a new scene takes the place of the worry and strain of the previous days. The weather was beautifully fine, with gusts of bracing air now and then, which only made it the more enjoyable. Tears are soon dried up, and the chief mourners become the jolliest of the crowd. All are in the best of spirits, and try to forget the friends from whom they are parting, and think only of the friends to whom they are going.

There is no place where people are thrown more together than on shipboard, and no place where there is so much sociality ; and here some very lasting friendships spring up. The common danger serves in a great measure to make all akin, but I have very generally noticed that people of the same position in life felt more comfortable in each other's society, and sought for those of their own calling or station. The student of human nature finds abundant resources at sea. Here he is pretty certain to find a specimen of every grade of society, and every clime, congregated around him, and has only to sit down, pencil in hand, and paint to his heart's content. I have seen some such artists at work, but to me the sketchers seemed the more sketch-worthy of the objects. I still retain the most distinct recollection of my new acquaintances.

I shall ever remember my American friends just returning after an extensive tour of the old country, which means in Jonathan's language — Europe. They took notes endlessly, and on the least provocation instituted comparisons, America always profiting by the transaction. It must be owned that America is a great country, and the Americans are justly proud of it, but foreigners are amazed, not withstanding, at their enthusiasm when boasting : The largest rivers in the world, the longest bridges in the world, the highest mountains in the world, the finest cities, and the finest business people in the world. I might multiply until the thing would become posi tively sickening. These expressions I have heard over and over again from the Governor of the State as well as the humblest citizen. And this vaunting, which seems to them a becond nature, ofttimes makes the Americans very unpopular.

I should say unde servedly unpopular, for I must own, although my experience of European countries is considerable, that nowhere have I met a people in private life more hospitable, more generous, and in their way cultured and refined. This is particularly true of the Southern States. And then there was the pugilistic gentleman, who had a very contentious appearance, and who was ever and anon picking quarrels. His great forte was politics and religion, the politics of England or America being equally acceptable. He was accom pinied by some friends, from whom I learned his history, and who were certainly not his admirers. Early in the teens he went to America, settled in a Western city, and rapidly prospered. A few years ago his wife died, and later his son and only daughter, and almost concurrently he suffered very serious money losses.

All this preyed upon his mind and impaired his health. His physician ordered him home to his native England, in hopes of profiting by the climate, but with very little good results. His best friends tired of him, and openly vowed they could bear the strain no longer. Thoroughly disgusted with Eng land and everything English, he set out once more, regretting the vessel that had brought him to the accursed shore had not gone down mid-ocean. I don't know how it happened, but this man's history became very generally known, and his conduct was a subject of very lively conversation always at meals. A little incident happened to him which seemed sooner than expected to lead him from public life. We had partaken of a substantial repast, and were just crowding on the saloon deck to enjoy the pleasant breeze and sunshine.

The noisy gentleman was there, and seated himself in a party numbering five or six, with whom he hoped to have a very comfortable disputation. He was not mistaken. The excitement soon reached its height, thethesisbeingthe feasibility of uniting the States and Canada. In the midst of furious gesticulation, and seemingly on the eve of triumph, the reclining chair containing the hero of the sketch collapsed, and simultaneously its occupant. There was very general laughter, and the apparent sympathisers in their effort to suppress laughter were a spectacle highly ludicrous. The great man remained fully five minutes in his fallen state without attempting to speak, and refused all consolation. He then tried to recover from the shock and ruins, and very abruptly retiring to improve his toilet, was not seen or heard of afterwards.

I was next morning called in to decide a serious family quarrel between the occupants of state-room No. 36, arising out of aforesaid. From evidence it appeared that the lady of the house was disturbed about midnight by the chuckling of her lord, which at first led her to believe he had taken suddenly ill, but on inquiry learned he was still suffering from the hilarity of the day preceding, which left so much of dregs behind to be cleared out. " What is the matter ? " she asked, in breathless suspense. " I was thinking," he answered, and then burst outright. " I am laughing at the gentleman who fell and broke his arguments." The novelty of the answer and situation affected the good lady's nerves, ruthlessly dismissing balmy sleep, and producing eventually an effect which to the un initiated very much resembled sea-sickness.

Having heard the evidence, and summing up with as much precision and gravity as possible, I dismissed the parties with a caution, especially as this was the first offence and the defendant pleaded guilty. Every community, it would seem, must have its great men, and some of our greatest men have been accidentally called into existence. It was so in the case of the individual who now held the field until the end of the journey. Had our renowned bilious friend been preserved, the former might probably have been shaded from that fierce light that beats upon the temples of great men, and blackens every spot. But this was not to be. The new celebrity was a Scotch man, from somewhere on the borders of the two countries, and retaining many of the worst characteristics of both. Except this, nobody knew anything of him.

He had no friends, and cared not to make friends. Where he was going, and for what purpose were equally mysteries. To all inquirers he was abrupt and satirical. He took part when he could in most of the games, and was a punster after his fashion, but his puns were pointless and irrelevant. He had read extracts from Kingsley, and was prepared in consequence to meet any man, or set of men, on any given subject. His reign was very unpopular, though lasting only three days. 'Twas amusing to watch his movements on landing. Many were the congratulations on all sides, and many were the regrets at parting. But our chief had nothing to say for or against the proceedings. He paced the pier to and fro, arranging and then disarranging his toilet, too self-possessed to notice even passing events. The farewells of fellow-travellers, the compliments ex changed respectively on the pleasure accorded by each other's society, the meeting of friends and their extravagant caresses, ladies in the excitement asking all sorts of irrelevant and unmeaning questions, and B gentlemen gallant enough in the midst of the hurry to wait and find out their meaning, the shouting of jarvies, detachments of threes and fours hastening away to mingle in the throng of the Great Republic, must have been in his eyes too despicable to com mand attention.

He was there to the last, which served to arouse curiosity all the more. I could have waited with all my heart to see the result, but force of circumstances hurried me also away, and I was obliged to forego this consolation, and leave him to his fate. Nor can I omit saying a word of my countryman, who was the most agreeable and social of companions. He was just returning, having consigned to their final resting place the remains of an aged parent, at whose special request he had come and was just in time for the melancholy parting. All ties being now broken, he could no longer think of revisiting the old home stead in Ireland, and had decided once and for all to throw in his lot with the go-aheads of the New World. He felt it hard to arrive at this conclusion, but nothing else remained, for all existing ties were on the other side of the Channel.

In order to be his friend, how ever, it was necessary to believe, unhesitatingly, that America was the greatest country in the world, and New York the greatest city. All proofs to the contrary were sheerest waste of breath. He was, not withstanding, the most genial of men, generous to a fault, and had succeeded wonderfully well in the land of his adoption, considering his chances. There is little room now to speak of the married lady who had been travelling for the previous five years, over all imaginable countries, and was not yet satisfied ; of the unmarried lady yet in the twenties who had been to most regions hitherto ex plored, alone, unfriended, and unknown, with no recommendation but the almighty dollar to touch the hardened heart of strangers ; of her who talked of nothing save the latest opera, latest song, or latest magazine.

And what about the sea sickness which at stated intervals happened to mar the general harmony ? To interviewers on both sides the Channel when asked my opinion about it, as well as the atten dant sensations, my answer was in all cases the same —namely, that I preferred to speak of the matter in the next chapter.

CHAPTER IL

— THE AMERICAN SHORE. WHAT about sea-sickness? Well, to begin at the beginning, I think it is improperly called sea-sickness. Why ? Because I have myself seen as many people sick a stormy night on Lake Superior as I have seen comparatively on the salt Atlantic ;. and this goes to show that 'tis not specially the result of salt water and sea air. It might be better termed ship-sickness. Whether it is to be called sea-sickness or ship-sickness, all the same I was the sufferer. I had spent the greater part of the day in the steerage,. and, conversing pretty generally with the steeragers, had built myself up wonderfully well in all their wants and aspirations. A day spent here is doubtless a liberal education. More than once I felt the interior at war with itself, and, despite all warnings, I remained: lumbering on huge bales of oil cloth, snuffing in odours inexplicable, which are nowhere else on this side of a nightmare to be discovered, and stumbling now and then over monstrously-proportioned chains and tarred ropes.

The day was spent, and I was just congratu lating myself on the success of this novel achievement in the way of killing time, when, hark ! the winds blew, and the sea rose, and the good ship rolled and pitched in turn, and there was terrible commotion. Here a gentleman in great coat and weather cap declared, in chilled accents, that this was the stormiest night he remembered. A lady, who seemed fully alive to the situation, gave it as her opinion that in case of accident gentlemen had many advantages over the other sex. Several others joined in, but their remarks were more encouraging. In the midst of conflicts, internal and external, I retired, and lo ! a gentle perspiration bedewed my countenance, doubtless the result of extreme nausea. The dew was gathering faster, until it fell. The heart heat, and then it beat all its former records, and then 1 began to think it might beat past itself, and forget to return — and then I bethought myself how I should be next day tarred and canvassed, and summarily sent forth with the God-speed of captain and crew, to found on an island ; and then I tried to banish all such dreary thoughts, and think only of youthful pastimes, and green fields, and healthful mountains, and purling streams ; and then I tried to call to mind all the admonitions of friends — no easy matter — and enemies transformed into friends ; and then to fix my mind upon some one thing in particular.

Nothing could avail. A terrible reckoning followed. Reckoning followed reckoning, until I had given myself up for lost, and nothing cared for things of earth, their plea sure, or their pain. My first thought, on recovering a little, turned on the possibility that some of the internals indispensable to existence had been forcibly •evicted. But this was not so, and there came a glean. of consolation. Some friends called in the meantime. One sug gested brandy, another whiskey, another had a medicine specially for the purpose, obtained through the kindness of a friend at parting under the greatest privacy, which, of course, served to enhance its value, and this was no doubt infallible. Another thought it might be better to let the thing take its course, and spoke at some length on the advantages to be reaped thereby.

My hatred of the fellow dates from that hour, and ever afterwards, when I bethought myself of him, my fancy painted him, mallet-in-hand, threatening my very existence. In this way the night passed. Next day was calmer, and I felt proportionately at ease. I was gradually feeling better, and becoming accustomed to seafaring,. — was sorry the journey should terminate so shortly. But dearest friends must part, and the most pleasing associations of life often end abruptly. We had been for seven whole days traversing a vast expanse of ocean, where nought was seen but sky and sea, separated from the world, its sorrows and its joys, and we a little commonwealth in ourselves. Land hove in sight, and there was universal joy. For me, at least, that joy was not unmixed with sorrow, for I felt, all things considered, that one of the most enjoyable events of my life was past.

One gentle man could now distinctly see the great hotel at Long Beach, and everybody a little later could see Sandy Hook, from which New Yorkers were to be apprised of our arrival. And then there was quarantine station, at which all the steeragers were examined, passing in single file before the Republican officer of health, although they had been previously examined by the ship's doctor, and labelled to that effect. No others were questioned, and it was best for me, as I don't think I could have submitted myself to the crdeal. Another halt to satisfy the curiosity of a tribe of immigrant Government quizzers. These worthies were gifted with very warlike faces, and many of them, I am pretty sure, were remnants of American campaigns. I noted particularly the conduct of a youthful member of the corps.

Hardly was commu nication established between the two vessels when he was on our deck bounding and rebounding, as if to show he was no worse for the feat, and still prepared for greater things. He was followed by an older and wiser man, who acted more rationally. The immense river boats, passing and repassing, with their vast crowds of passengers on business and pleasure, with drew my attention from the others. We had now to undergo a series of interrogations, and make a clear confession of our past life and future intentions. Our baggage in number and quality could not escape inquiry. The work, however, of searching into the secrets of old boxes, and eyeing carefully the contents of travellers' companion bags, which nobody except the owner ever had the audacity to attempt previously, was reserved for a select gang on shore, who entered on their duty, it must be said, heartily.

Our inspectors were not particularly civil, and took for granted that everybody knew all about their ways. They were generally abrupt and snappish, never once deigning to look upon the face of the subject of so much inquiry. I felt relieved when my case was heard, and gladly affixed my signature, not feeling peculiarly gratified at this first taste of American hospitality. Now lay before us the most beautiful of harbours. There were the crowded steamers passing to and fro, and hurrying as for a wager. They welcomed us heartily, and we as heartily reciprocated their cor diality. There lay to the docks a veritable forest of ships of all nations loading and unloading, with deafening sounds of machinery at work, ships of all sizes and makes lined out of sight, seamen in quaint costume, coal-heavers, black and white being no longer distinguishable, policemen, revenue men, ex press company men, hotel porters, hackmen, friends, and sight-seers, all on the tip-toe of expectation at our arrival.

Right before us was Brooklyn Bridge — the world's wonder — and nearer, the famous Statue of Liberty by Bartholdi, presented by France to the United States. The colossal figure resting on a huge pedestal bears in its palm a lantern, which, while enlightening the harbour by night, is supposed also to symbolise the lamp of liberty and intellect which enlightens the world. A French count, who spoke English tolerably well, waxed eloquent over its perfections. He was a great patriot, and thought this an excellent eye-opener to the Americans. But Jonathan smiled, looked piteous, and forgave the fellow. The excitement was every moment growing, and by the time we reached the dock became intense. A gentleman shook me by the hand four different times, and each parting was as cordial as the previous one.

A lady had lost her keys, and had no — no idea where to find them. I should say at a moderate calculation she received a sympathy from all sides fourfold their value. Another had lost one out of her three dreadful blackthorns. She seemingly believed in odd numbers, and was in a sorry plight. Her case did not evoke so much sympathy, the average individual believing she had sufficient protection in the two that remained. A gentleman was quite surprised and disappointed at not seeing his friends in the throng awaiting his arrival, and was prepared to receive explanations and encouragement from persons who were perfectly disinterested. Another sees his wife, and wonders if she is yet able to recognise him. A youthful wife sees her husband, and is over-joyed ; he recognises her and is equally delighted.

She does not think he •is much changed, although two years elapsed since she saw him. He might, she thought, be a little paler, but this was probably owing to excitement and -anxiety. Everybody spoke to everybody, and the most reserved during the journey now threw aside restraint. All were satisfied with the journey, the steamer, the crew, and fellow-passengers. And everybody agreed that one more or one less would have made the whole an absolute failure. Such gracious partings ! Such expressions of satisfaction ! Such joy at landing, and such sorrow at breaking up such pleasant associations ! Such glorious promises of abiding remembrance ! Such hallowed friendships, the growth of less than half-a-dozen days ! All this completely captivated my fancy, and yet I could not help thinking there might be an error somewhere. But at all events we were in New York.

Chapter III

-NEW YORK. I WILL be pardoned if I linger longer at New York than elsewhere, for New York is America. There is the greatest possible rivalry between Chicago and New York, each claiming the precedence. But so far the victory is easily on the side of New York, and there are weighty reasons for supposing this state of things shall continue. Chicago folk think very differently, and swear its boom is over. New York, they say, is built upon an island, fenced in by the North and East Rivers, the Harlem River completing the island, and anything outside of that space is not New York. They don't forget, however, that Brooklyn lies on the one side and Jersey city on the other, the North River and East River respectively intervening. That is so ; but these cities are not New York, and if New York, what of it ?

To their mind Jersey is productive only of mosquitoes and butter milk, while Brooklyn is a useless appanage, being the home of men once industrious, but now too wealthy or too lazy to work. I felt myself unconsciously drawn into the contest, and was at the time heartily interested. At New York I was an ardent New Yorker ; at Chicago I own I wavered slightly, not much. Now that 1 am free to speak, New York is by far the finer city. I felt fatigued and ill-assorted after the sea journey, and considered a rest of a few days imperative. The Fifth Avenue Hotel seemed about the best place to gain this comfort, and accordingly it was my home during the greater part of my stay in the city. But even here one is not safe against the onslaught of assassins. This has certainly been my experience, and I will tell how it happened.

I had just been a day and something in the hotel, and was perfectly satisfied with everything — servants, cooking, apartments, and the rest — and felt myself already sufficiently recruited, and hoped to be able to make an excursion through the city next day, when all of a sudden I was assailed. An Irish servant was kindly showing me the different apartments in the hotel, pointing out with much pride the suite of rooms occupied by the Prince of Wales during his stay in New York a few years ago, as well as those lately in the occupation of Mr. Cleveland, President of the States, and just by the time we had been to every apartment of interest in the concern, a gentleman advanced with firm pace, placed his card in my hand, and asked me if I were such a person. On my answering in the affirmative, he at once requested permission to slowly torture me to death for the space, it might be, of half-an-hour or three-quarters.

There was no alternative. I was in a strange land, far from friends, and I thought it better to submit with a grace, hence the work at once went on. The would-be assassin was a representative of the New York Herald — tall, gentlemanly, and highly intellectual, and about the last person in the world one would suspect of mal-intent. Here he was, and how he had got there, there is a history too long to be told. His questions turned first on the political situation in Ireland, the prospects of Home Rule, and the attitude of the opponents; next on the political sincerity of Mr. Gladstone, and if I thought he really believed at heart Home Rule could serve the interests of Ireland. He then wished to know what were my previous impressions of America and the Americans, and in what, and how far, my actual experience corresponded.

He then entered on the American school question, asking my opinion upon it, as well as the financial question, and what he termed the new Catholic movement. I begged he would not press my views on such important matters, as I was only a stranger, and not sufficiently grounded on the political and social ways of the country. He returned to the charge again and again ; but I was inexorable. Paus ing a little for note-taking, and probably to afford me a respite — for I could see by him he thought me wearied of the interrogatories— he inquired my object in visiting America, the places I intended visiting, and if he might have the opportunity of meeting me at New York on my return. I had from the beginning made up my mind to be reconciled, and, therefore, answered his queries gener ally, with as much good nature and as satisfactorily as I could.

My friend seemed not in the least tired after an ordeal of fully three-quarters of an hour, and, rising, good humouredly took me by the hand, ex pressed himself grateful, and hoped at some future time to be able to renew our acquaintance. I have met many American pressmen, but none of whom I preserve so distinct a recollection, and none who seemed so wholly interested in the work of journalism as this representative of the New York Herald. So much for early impressions. A word about journalism en passant. There is absolutely no attempt at style in the American newspapers. They are all facts, prettily told, with, if possible, an admixture of exciting romance here and there to give the whole a flavour. No difference if an error creeps into type. It is stereotyped with the rest ; such things must be of necessity.

And since people must read they may as well read exciting events with some foundation in fact as exciting romances with absolutely no foundation. Europeans are first attracted by their extraordinary advertisements. Professional men advertise in a style that should render in our country their case for ever hopeless, while men in business call into requisition terms the most extraordinary and wood-cuts the most ludicrous that human mind could invent. That is well enough for us, says the American, but what if it attains the object desired ? They laugh best who laugh last, and if Jonathan outstrips his neighbour in the race, and becomes a millionaire, he can afford in turn to have a hearty laugh. The great ambition of the young American is to become President of the States, a millionaire, or, the very least, a Senator.