Narrative of the Canadian Red River Exploring Expedition of 1857 and of the Assinniboine and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition of 1858

Front matter

NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. REPORT ON THE ASSINIBOINE Al SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION ; BY HENEY TOULE HIND, M. A. REPORTS ON THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORY NORTH-WEST TERRITORY REPORTS OF PROGRESS; TOGETHER WITH A PRELIMINARY AND GENERAL REPORT ON THE ASSINIBOINE AND SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION, MADE UNDER INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE PROVINCIAL SECRETARY, CANADA. By HENRY YOULE HIND, M. A PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND GEOLOGY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF TRINITY COLLEGE, TORONTO, IN CHARGE OF THE EXPEDITION. JJviuteb bg (Bviftr of tljc _C_-g.slcU.tie TORONTO : PRINTED BY JOHN LOVELL, CORNER OF YONGE AND MELINDA STREETS. 1859.

Introduction

. THE interest manifested by the Government and people of Canada in the North-West Territory, and particularly that portion of it described in the following pages, appears to call for a precise description of the manner in which the exploration was conducted. An enumeration of the data and of the sources of information embodied in the accompanying maps, sections, and plans, may also be acceptable. been a point always to state the kind and dimensions of the timber we saw. The same remark applies to the use of the word ' prairie,' and to prairie country ; prairies, or plains, may be level, rich and dry, sustaining luxuriant grasses and affording splendid pasturage ; they may be marshy and wet, or undulating and stony, or sandy and barren, or salt and herbless, or arid and consequently sterile.

Such indefinite and often inapplicable terms as ' open prairie,' ' rolling prairie,' ' alluvial prairie,' not unfrequently employed in describing with out limit as to space, the vast unpeopled wastes, — often beautiful and rich, often desolate and barren, — of the great North-West, are sometimes both physically and geologi cally wrong, and serve to convey the impression that the large areas to which they are applied possess, if not a fertile, at least not an unkindly soil or an arid climate, rendering husbandry hopeless. Alluvial areas are usually the best and richest tracts, and while the term may with strict pro priety be applied to the bottoms of the Assiniboine or parts of the Saskatchewan Valley, it would be wholly inapplicable to much of the country on their high prairie banks, and to nineteen-twentieths of the prairies or rather plains of Rupert's Land.

An endeavour to adhere to a faithful description of the features of the country, whether good, indifferent, or bad, has involved a repetition of terms in these pages and on the maps which the foregoing remarks will explain. With a view to anticipate and satisfy a very reasonable demand, I give below a brief description of our mode of observing and recording the natural features of the country through which we travelled. I do not suppose that the method pursued possesses the slightest novelty, or that it is not sus ceptible of improvement, but in view of the wide extent of country it was desirable to describe and delineate during one season of five months, it was after much consideration and the experience of the previous year, thought to be the best we could adopt. My instructions, as regards objects to be observed and facts to be recorded, were precise and exact ; but with reference to the exploration of particular sections of country, His Excel lency the Governor General, with a generous and encouraging " confidence in my judgment and discretion," left me at liber ty to make any other exploration in addition to those specially mentioned.* At the outset it was agreed to employ certain descriptive terms in noting the features of the country, which the experience of the previous year enabled us to select, in order to record an accurate and uniform representation of different objects of the same kind, in case separate parties should be formed from time to time.f A little experience in Rupert's Land shows the necessity of this precision.

A tract of country may be wooded and described in a report, or delineated on a map, as a ' wooded country,' conveying the idea that, timber covers the surface and mighl afford a supply of that indispen sible material for building purposes and fuel ; but in Rupert's Land, west of the Low Lake Region, in nine cases out of ten, the " woods" consist of small aspens very rarely exceeding six inches in diameter or twenty-five feet in altitude ; hence it has THE TOPOGRAPHICAL MAP. My instructions on the subject of a map of the country were precise (paragraph 11, page 2); the exploration was to be made with reference to the construction of a map as complete as possible of the region explored, on a scale of two miles to one inch, and the operations were to be conducted In view of a possible extension at some future time, of the exploration, so as to embrace the entire valley of Lake Winnipeg and its feeders.

The extent of the data upon which the delineation of the map is based, will be seen at a glance in the Itinerary. Atten tion is here particularly called to the fact, that whatever has been the result of personal observation, or rests upon authority respecting which there can be no doubt, is marked in continuous lines. Selkirk Settlement, showing the limits of Parishes, the position of Churches, and Forts, &c, is reduced from an authorized instrumental survey by the Hon. HodsonV Bay Company's Surveyor, Mr. Taylor. The original was kindly furnished me by Mr. Mactavish, now Governor of Assiniboia. * "I am to add, that His Excellency, having every confidence in your judgment and discretion, does not \vi9b to trammel you with more detailed instructions, and that you are left at liberty to make any other exploration, in addition to those particularly named therein, should yon, upon information obtained in the locality, deem it desirable for the general purposes of the expedition." — Paragraph It, Instructions No. II, page 2. f See Appendix. 1* VI The dotted lines on the map show those parts of the country which were not visited, and the data upon which they are laid down is derived chiefly from the large manuscript Map of the North-West in the Crown Lands Office, by (he late excellent but neglected geographer, David Thompson,* or from reliable information obtained in the country.

While the Itin erary gives a general idea of the mode in which the time was occupied when in the field, our field books themselves con tain the record of every hour's, and often of every five minutes' employment. They have been kept in strict accordance with the regulations established at starting, f and they supply a full and complete record of the manner in which the several parties were employed. A reference to any part or parts of the con tinuous lines on the Topographical Map can be found in the field books at once, together wilh the hour and minute at which the observation was made; a remark which applies to the wnole time we were in the field, from the 14th June to the last day of October. All portions of the map drawn with a con tinuous line were plotted according to instructions, on a scale of two miles to one inch, or 1;S61720 and afterwards reduced by pentagraph to a scale of six miles to one inch, or ftft0\e<>. text.

For the determination of the Cretaceous fossils, I am indebted to Mr. F. B. Meek, who ranks as the highest autho rity on this continent on fossils from the secondary rocks. I am happy lo have this opportunity of expressing my thanks to Mr. Meek for his very valuable co-operation. The excellent paper contained in chapter XIX, proceeding from such an authority, gives a value to that portion of the* Report and Map which will be appreciated by Geologists. Mr Billings, the distinguished palæontologist of the Cana dian Geological Survey has not only determined the Silurian and Devonian specimens, and described some new species, but he has also lent his invaluable assistance in superintending the preparation of the drawings and wood-cuts of the specimens figured at the close of this Report. Mr. Smith, the artist ip connection with the Geological Survey of Canada, has executed the drawings under the superintendence of Mr. Billings.

THE PHOTOGRAPHS. Arrangements have been made to publish a number of copies of some of the photographs taken during the exploration. It is, however, much to be regretted that the negatives of those taken on the Souris, the Assiniboine and Qu'Appelle were left at Selkirk Settlement, in direct opposition to my expressed wishes. An effort to procure them during the last summer has not been successful ; the box in which they were stated to have been placed, has arrived, but without containing the pho tographic negatives. THE SECTIONS. The dimensions of valleys were ascertained either trigonometrically, or by the level and chain. The breadth of the Saskatchewan was ascertained by triangulation. Rivers such as the Assiniboine, the Souris, the Qu'Appelle, were measured by a line stretched across, and the depth ascertained by a sounding pole at stated intervals.

The depth of the Saskat chewan was determined by paddling at a uniform rate across the stream and sounding at stated intervals, performing the operation two or three times and taking the mean. The fall of different rivers was frequently observed with the level. Tables showing the leading dimensions of valleys, rivers and lakes, determined by these methods will be sound on pages 35, and 58 — of the volume of water discharged, pages 29 and 66, — and of the depth, rate of current, temperature, etc., in the text and on the map, where a line of soundings through the Great Lakes and their connecting rivers is also shown. These measurements were made in accordance with the instructions contained in paragraph 8, page 2. I am indebted to Professor Hincks of University College, Toronto, for the names of a small collection of plants illustrating the prevailing prairie flora in some fertile districts.

Paragraph No. 15 of the Instructions calls for a short notice : " It is hardly necessary to state that you will be held responsible for the conduct, diligence and fidelity of the party under your charge.'' To say the least, this is a difficult responsibility ; the parly it is known, consisted besides myself, of Mr. Dickinson, surveyor and engineer, Mr. Fleming, assistant surveyor and draughtsman, and Mr. Hime, photographer. The excellent Re ports of Mr. Dickinson and Mr. Fleming, and the maps at the close of this volume, speak for themselves ; but I should feel that I was neglecting an important duty if I did not specify more particularly my obligations to these gentlemen. Both Mr. Dickinson and Mr. Fleming conducted important branch explorations, and it is with perfect confidence I refer lo their narratives and reports.

Associated wilh them almost hourly since July, 1857, it is with much regret on my part that the completion of this volume closes our present connection. Few but those who have been engaged in a responsible work, in a wild and distant country, can appreciate the worth of conscientious, lalented and most trustworthy friends, and there are equally few who can conceive the pain and anxiety which the absence or temporary suppression of these qualities in a companion, is capable of inflicting, when circumstances will not permit avoidance or separation. THE GEOLOGICAL MAP AND SECTIONS. The geographical outlines are reduced from the Topographi cal Map of the Expedition. The scale is 24 miles to an inch, or ■r^nsitf- The manner in which the approximate limits of formations were obtained, is explained and discussed in the * The labours of this remarkable man are only now beginning to be appreciated.

His map of the Boundary Line, according to the Treaty of Ghent, between British America and the United States, from Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods, is an admirable piece of work. We recognized every portage as we came to it last year, although Thompson's Survey was made in 1826. It is much to be hoped that his numerous works, the results of thirty years labour in the North-West, will soon be published by the Government. H. Y. H. Toronto, 1859. ■JSee Appendix. CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION.

Page v— xii The Qu'Appelle, or Calling River — (Contimted.) ten weeks — Fine Farming Country opened up — Best Pass in the Rocky Mountains approached — Dangerous and Circuitous Navigation of Lake Winnipeg avoided — Grand Rapids surmounted — Coal Falls overcome— Postal Communication along the proposed route — Centres of Population— The South Branch will become the emigrant route — Importance of the Communication from Lake Superior, . id South Branch, to the Pacific. COPY OF INSTRUCTIONS— Nos. 1 and 2 " 1—2 REPORTS OE PROGRESS. PAGE No. I. — Lake Superior to Red River 3 1 1. — Mr. Dickinson's Report on the Pigeon River Route ... 4 III. — Fort Garry to Fort Ellice, viA the Little Souris 7 PRELIMINARY REPORT. IV. — Fort Ellice to the South Branch op the Saskatchewan, thence ro Fort A la Corne and Red River ... 8 V. — Mr. Dickinson's Report on the Qu'Appelle Valley, East op the Mission — Fort Pelly to the Rapid River 10 PAGE Area Traversed 27 Surface Features 27 Lakes and Rivers 28 Volume of Water in the Assiniboine 29 Wooded and Prairie Land 3q Areas Fit for Settlement 32 Valley of the Assiniboine 31 Valley of the Saskatchewan 32 East of the Riding and Duck Mountains 32 Geological Features 32 Climate 3* Extracts from the Journal at Fort a la Corne, Saskatchewan River.

Lat. 53°. 30'; Long. 104°. 30' W 34 Table Showing the Dimensions of Valleys and Rivers 35 VI. — Red River Settlements to the Salt Region on Winnipego-sis Lake, thence to the Summit of the Riding Mountain, thence to the Settlement 12 28 VII. — The Country East and West op the Red River, North op the 49th Parallel 15 ON THE QU'APPELLE, OR CALLING RIVER. :;i ON THE QU'APPELLE, OR CALLING RIVER AND THE DIVERSION OF THE WATERS OF THE SOUTH BRANCH OF THE SASKATCHEWAN DOWN ITS VALLEY, WITH A VIEW TO A DIRECT STEAMBOAT COMMUNICATION FROM FORT GARRY, RED RIVER, TO NEAR THE FOOT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS... 23 GENERAL REPORT Gold in British Columbia will induce emigration, and create commercial activity in that Colony — The Valley of the Saskatchewan will become an emigrant land-route to British Columbia — Americans following, and preparing to follow that route — Public attention directed to Lake Winnipeg and the North Branch of the Saskatchewan, as a Steamboat Route — One result of the Canadian Exploring Expedition to the South Branch of the Saskatchewan — New uninterrupted Steamboat Route to the Foot of the Rocky Mountains, in a direction nearly due west to the Bow River Pass — Probable communication, without impediment and only one break, from any navigable part of Red River to the Rocky Mountain — Qu'Appelle, or Calling River Valley — Description of — Inosculates with the South Branch and the Assiniboine — Work required to be accomplished to send the waters of the South Branch of the Saskatchewan down the Qu'Appelle Valley, past Fort Garry — Qu'Appelle Lakes — Character of — Depth — Abound in Fish — How the flooding of the Assiniboine and Red River is to be avoided during spring freshets — Character of the Country drained by the South Branch — Climate of the South Branch — Great advantage to be derived from the proposed route — Distance shortened 400 miles — Route uninterrupted from Red River to the foot of the Rocky Mountains — Season of Navigation extended eight to

Chapter I. Fort Garry To The Mouth Of The Little Souris

RIVER— THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE SOURIS TO THE BOUNDARY LINE 30 The Start — Supplies— Prairie Ridges— The Big Ridge — Pigeon Traps — Stony Mountain — Birds — Saline Efflorescence — Character of the Big Ridge — The Assiniboine — Grasshoppers — Ojibway Encampment — Archdeacon Cochrane — Prairie Portage — Cliff Swallow— Thunder Storms— Ojibways— The Bad Woods— Assiniboine Forest — River — Rabbits — Sandy Hills of the Assiniboine — Latitude — Dimensions of Valley — Variation of Compass — Sand Dunes — Aspect of Country — Hail Storm— Balsam Spruce— Pine Creek — The Little Souris — Grasshoppers — Fish — Sioux — Cretaceous Rocks — Blue Hills — Pembina River — Backfat Lakes — Vast Prairie — Prairie Fires — Horizontal Rocks — Inoceramus — Guelder Rose — Lignite — Ancient Lake Beaches — Sand Dunes — < >.ik Lake — Souris Sand Hills — Nighthawk— Bog Iron Ore — Floods in 1852 — Grasshoppers, Infinite Multitude of — Appearance of the Sky, of Prairie — Little Souris Valley — Tracks — Turtle Motuitain — Sioux — Character of Prairie — Souris Lakes — Boulders — Mandan Village — Character of the Souris south of the 49th parallel.

Chapter II

Chapter IV — (Continued.) fervæ— Depth of Valley— Width of River— High Water-mark— VaUey Flooded— Affluents — Depth of Valley- Crooked Lake, or Ka-wa-wa-ki-ka-mac— Dimensions of— Effects of Fires— Trees in Valley— Boulders— Character of the Country— Indian Surprise— Indians— Summer Berry Creek— Dimensions of Valley— Valley and Prairie Scene- Camp Scene— Character of Valley— Ka-wah-wi-ya-ka-mac, or Round Lake — Dimensions of— Stony Barrier — Granite Boulders— Little Cut-arm Creek— The Scissors Creek— Rock Exposure— Grasshoppers — Big Cut-arm Creek — Dimensions of Qu'Appelle — Flooding of Valley — Timber — Undergrowth — Birds— Minks— Deer — Uniformity of Qu'Appelle Valley. FROM THE FORTY-NINTH PARALLEL ON THE LITTLE PAGE SOURIS TO FORT ELLICE— FROM FORT ELLICE TO THE QU'APPELLE MISSION 45 Indian Signs— Smell of Fire— The Sioux— Precautions— " Something "— " Souris Lakes"'— Red Deer's Head River— The Great Prairie, Character of — Mirage — Birds — Grasshoppers — Pipestone Creek — Country changed — Forest disappeared — Cretaceous Rocks— Buffalo Bull — Fort Ellice — McKay— Crees — Hunters — Provision Trading Posts— Pemican— Dried Meat — Thunder Storms — Mammoth Bones — Ojibway Hunter —Half-breeds — En Route for theQu' Appelle Mission— Grasshoppers — Thunder Storms— Trail— Weed Ridge — Kinni- Kinnik — Mode of Manufacturing— Boulders — White Crane — Magpies — Birds — Dew— Aridity of Great Prairie— Charles Pratt— Chalk Hills— Indian Turnip— Qu'Appelle Lakes- Fresh arrangements — Descent and ascent of the Qu'Appelle — Qu'Appelle Mission — Dimensions of Valley— Character of Lakes— White Fish — Rev. James Settee— Garden of Mission — Grasshoppers — Christian Worship — Baptism — ' ' Praying Father" and "Praying Man" — Rum — Lidian wishes.

CHAPTER V. PAGE FROM THE ELBOW OF THE SOUTH BRANCH OF THE

SASKATCHEWAN TO THE NEPOWEWIN MISSION, ON THE MAIN SASKATCHEWAN 61 Rocks on the South Branch — Cretaceous — Altitude of Exposure Character of — Selenite — Fossils — Concretions — Mesaskatomina Berry — Character of River — Drift — Rock Exposures — Fibrous Lignite — Treeless Prairie — Cree Camp — Mud Flats — Rock Exposure — Concretions — Treeless Banks and Prairie — Low Country — Drift Wood — Ripple Marks — Dimensions of the South Branch — The Moose Woods — Water and Ice Marks — Forest Timber — Character of River — Treeless Prairie—- Boulders — Soundings — Buffalo — Dimensions of River — Absence of Animal Life — 'The Woods' — Rate of Current — Boulders, Arrangement of — Artificial Pavement — Tiers of Boulders — Temperature — Balsam Spruce — Former Aspen Forest — Good Country — Water-marks — Soundings — Absence of Animal Life — Stratified Mud — Fall of River — Character of River — Colour and Temperature of North and South Branch — The North Branch — Absence of Indians — Grizzly Bear — Current of North Branch — Coal Falls — Dimensions of North Branch — Boulders — Trees — The Grand Forks — The Main Saskatchewan — Fort h. la Corne — Cubic Feet of Water in North and South Branch and Main Saskatchewan.

Chapter III. From The Qu'appelle Mission To The South Branch Of The

SASKATCHEWAN 50 Depth of Fishing Lakes — Cross-sections — Confervœ — Lower Lakes 66 feet deep— Birds— Vegetation — Water-mark — Third and Fourth Fishing Lakes— Fish— Soundings in Fourth Lake — Fishing Lakes probably once united — Geese — Pelicans — Fourth Lake — Water-mark— Aspect of Valley in 1852— Qu'Appelle River— Prairie— Depth of Valley- White Cranes — Section of Alluvial Flats— Temperature — Character of Prairie— Birds— Shrubs— Antelope— Hare — Roses — Grand Forks — Plain Crees — Temperature of River — Ice marks— Buffalo Tracks — Character of Stream— Willow Bushes — Fetid Air— Drift Clay— Erratics— Freernen's.Houses — Prairie — Want of Timber— Thunder Storms — Touchwood Hills — Indians — Tolls — Diplomacy — Indian Resolve — The Grand Forks — Long Lake — Souris Forks — Souris of Qu'Appelle and Assiniboine — Dimensions of Valley — The Grand Coteau — Prairie Fires — Indian Signs — A Prairie on Fire Buffalo — Consequence o Prairie Fires — Reclamation of Sterile Areas — Indian Telegraph — Scarcity of Wood — Ancient Indian Encampent — The Plain Crees — Cree Tents —Provisions— Buffalo Pound Hill Lake — Indians— Shortstick — Aspec t .

Country — Coteau de Missouri — Last Mountain—Treeless Plain— The Grand Coteau — Character of— Buffalo — Birds— Plain Crees, Camp of— The Qu'Appelle Valley— Marrow— Precautions— The Sandy Hills— Crees— Bois de Vache — Salt Lake — Dimensions of Valley — Erratics — Indian Hospitality — Eye-brow Hill — Source of Qu'Appelle — Buffalo— Character of Qu'Appelle Valley— Water-marks — Sandy Hills— Distribution of Boulders— Section— Rock Exposure — Shortstick — Sand Dunes — South Branch— The Qu'Appelle Valley— Cree Camp — Height of Land— Section of Valley — Levels — Buffalo Pound — Camp Moving — 'Dead Men' — Old Buffalo Pound — Horrible Spectacles — New Pound —Bringing) in Buffalo— Slaughter in Pound— Shortstick 'Talk' — Objections to Half-breeds— To the Hudson Bay Company — Shortstick's Wants — Rock Exposure — Boulders in Valley — Character of the South Branch — Leading Dimensions of the Qu'Appelle or Calling River Valley, aud of the Lakes which occupy it.

CHAPTER VI. FROM FORT

A LA CORNE TO FORT ELLICE, AND FORT ELLICE TO THE RED RIVER SETTLEMENTS 66 Sandy Strips on the Saskatchewan — Banksian Pine — Fine Country — Long Creek— Old Forest — Fires, Extent of — Extension of the Prairies — Former Extent of Wooded Country — Effect of Fires — Long Creek— Hay Ground — Moles — Humidity of Climate — Source of Long Creek — The Birch Hills— Flowers — Aspect of Country — Carrot River — The Lumpy Hill of the Woods— Lakes— The Wooded Country— Former Extent of —Limits of Good Land— Raspberries — Mosquitoes — The Height of Land— Continuation of the Eyebrow Hill Range —Valley Inosculating with South and North Branch of the Saskatchewan — Grasshoppers— Character of the Country Birds — Destruction of Forests — The Big Hill — Boulders Limit of Wooded Country— Belts of Wood— Great Prairie- Character of the Country— Salt Lakes— The Touchwood Hills —Beautiful Country— Excellent Soil— The Quill Lakes- Flowers— White Cranes— The Heart Hill— The Last Mountain—The Little Touchwood Hills— Lakes numerous— Touchwood Hill Fort— Ka-ou-ta-at-tin-ak— Touchwood Hill Range —Long Lake— Devil's Lake— Garden at the Fort— White Fish in Long Lake— Burnt Forest— Grasshoppers— Winter Forage for Horses— White Fish— Buffalo— Medicine Man- Climate of Touchwood Hills— Humidity of Trail to Fort Ellice— Marshes— Little Touchwood HiUs— Character of Country Changes — Depressions — Pheasant Mountain — Cliaracter of the country— Heavy Dews— Hoar Frost— Cutarm Creek— Willow Prairie— Little Cut-arm Creek— Rolling Prairie— Attractive Country— Spy Hill— Boulders— Aspen Groves Increasing— Sand Hills— The Assiniboine— Dimen

Chapter IV. From The Qu'appelle Mission To Fort Ellice, Down The Qu'appelle

RIVER 58 The Second Fishing Lake — Depth of — Indian Map — Origin of name Qu'Appelle, or "Who Calls River"— The First Lake, or Pakitawiwin —Great Depth of First Lake — Fish — Cuii- I -■■! 94 Chapter VI — (Continued.)

CHAPTER IX.

sions of Valley near Fort Ellice— The Riding Mountain- Rapid River— Character of the Country— Well adapted for Settlement— Timber of the Riding Mountain— Birds— Creta ceous Shales— Pembina Mountain— White Mud River- Character of the Country — Forest Timber— Fish— Luxuriant Vegetation— Lake Manitobah^-Fishing Station— Red River —Assiniboine Prairies— Arrive at the Settlements. THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE SASKATCHEWAN TO THE SALT SPRINGS ON WINNIPEGO-SIS LAKE 90 The Little Saskatchewan — Height of Bank — Country in rear — Tracking — Swamps — Banks of River — Ojibway Camp — White-fish— Character of Country — Canoe Fleet — Spruce — Boulders — Marsh— St. Martin Lake — " Money "—Pounded Fish — Wavys — Fine Land — The Narrows — Boulder Barriers — Sugar Island — Indians — Gneissoid Islands — St. Martin Rocks — Beach Barriers — Depth of St. Martin Lake — Thunder Island — Thunder Storm — Partridge Crop River — Rushes — Old Mission — Low Country — Indian Farmer — Wide Spread Marsh — Fairford — The Character of the Country — The Mission — Evening Service — Rev. Mr. Stagg — The Farm — Hudson's Bay Company's Post — Rum — Lake Manitobah — Progress of the Season — Rocks — Fossils — The Coast — Steep Rock Point — Devonian Rocks — Indian Superstition — Water-hen River — Eagles — Character of Water-hen River— Pelicans — Indians — Wood and Prairie Indians — Barter — Winnipego-sis Lake — Ermine Point — Elms — Salt Spring — Snake Islands — Duck Mountain — Snake Island Fossils — Arrive at Salt Springs.

CHAPTER VII. FROM FORT

A LA CORNE TO THE GRAND RAPID OF™™ THE SASKATCHEWAN.— FROM THE GRAND RAPID TO THE RED RIVER SETTLEMENTS vid THE WEST COAST OF LAKE WINNIPEG 72 Instructions — Equipment — Departure from Fort a la Corne — General direction, current, and breadth of the Saskatchewan — Character of its Valley — Country through which the river flows well adapted for settlement— Sickness and discomforts — Reach Pemican Portage and Cumberland House — Description of Cumberland — The Saskatchewan and surrounding Country between Cumberland and the Pas — The Pas — Christ Church — Gradual depression of the country bordering the river — Alluvial flats — Marshes — Delta — Muddy Lake — Rock exposure — Marshes and mud flats — Cedar Lake : its situation aud dimensions — Surrounding country — The Saskatchewan between Cedar Lake and Lake Winnipeg — Cross Lake Rapid : its dimensions — Enter Cross Lake — Meet a brigade of boats — Cross Lake : its dimensions and altitude — Surrounding country— The Saskatchewan east of Cross Lake — Rapids : their dimensions — Smooth reach — Drift Clay banks — The Grand Rapid : Portage ; running the Rapid ; its dimensions ; character of its excavated bed ; magnificence of the upper portion of the cataract ; mode of ascending it ; remarks in relation to surmounting this barrier and making the Saskatchewan available for steam navigation— Indian encampment — Lake Winnipeg — Cape Kitchinashi — Storms — Detained on an island — Windbound on mainland — Tempest — Repulsed by the wind — Character of the coast : the sand beaches and swamps — War Path River — Verifying rate of canoe — Tracking — Limestone Point— Encountering a head wind and storm — Lightening canoe — Starving Indians — The Little Saskatchewan — Recapitulation — The prominent features of the coast — Formation of Cape Kitchinashi — Limestone exposures — Tributary streams — General Character of the Country — Indian Chart — Inaccuracy of the Maps of the Lake — Depart from the Little Saskatchewan — Windbound again for three days — Provisions exhausted — Contrary winds — Driven back and stopped — The Cat Head — Windbound again by a hurricane — Barrier of boulders — Eagle — Stopped by foul winds again at the Wicked Point — Pike Head and River — Opportune supply of Fish — Wide traverse to Grindstone Point — Grassy Narrows — Sandy Bar — Arrive at the Settlements — Conclusion.

CHAPTER X. THE SALT SPRINGS, ON WINNIPEGO-SIS LAKE, TO THE SUMMIT OF

THE RIDING MOUNTAIN— THE SUMMIT OF THE RIDING MOUNTAIN TO MANITOBAH HOUSE Character of the Country — The Duck Mountain — The Salt Springs — The Wells — The Manufacture of Salt — Salt Springs and Lagoons — Moss River — Rapids — Character of River — Valley or Dauphin River — The Riding Mountain —Lake Ridge — Hay Ground — Dauphin Lake — Pike — Snow Birds — Journey to the Summit of the Riding Mountain — Marshes — Ridges — Character of the Coimtry — Whiskey Jack — Quaking Bog — Pitching Track — Rabbits— Foot of Mountain — Cretaceous Rocks — Plateaux — Conical Hills — White Spruce — Brown-nosed Bear — Summit of the Riding Mountain — Character of the Country — Former Character of the Riding Mountain — Denudation — Table Land — Snow Storm — Source of the Rapid River — Indian Superstition — Descent of Riding Mountain — Character of the Mountain — Fish — Sickness — Cupping — Ta-wa-pit — Great Bones — Grasshoppers — Journey from Dauphin Lake to Lake Manitobah — Character of the Country — Bogs — Aspen Ridges— Ridge Pitching Track — Ebb and Flow Lake — Indian Tent — Interior of — Supper — Sleep — Buffalo Runner — Manitobah House.

CHAPTER XI. MANITOBAH HOUSE TO MANITOBAH

ISLAND— MAN ITO- BAH ISLAND TO OAK POINT— OAK POINT TO THE SETTLEMENTS ON RED RIVER 100 Mr. and Mrs. Mackenzie — Manitobah House — Messenger — Missionary privations — Want of supplies — Communication with St. Paul — Future supplies more constant — Snow storm — Indian Summer — Snowbirds — Manitobah House — Rock — John Campbell — Whitefish — Importance of — Aspect of country — The Narrows — Manitobah Island — Dimensions of — Oak — Rock formation — Fossils — Indian superstitions — Fairies — Signals — Arrival of Boat at Manitobah Island — Coast of Lake Manitobah— Old Mission Station— Unfitness of this part of the coast of the lake for Settlement— Indian liberality— -Monkman's Point— Cause of the formation of Marshes— H. B. Company's Breeding establishment— Oak Point— Dimensions of Lake Manitobah— Prairie bordering the Lake — Shoal Lake — Character of the comitry— Big Ridge— Littlo Ridge— Arrive at the Settlements— Table shewing the leading dimensions and approximate height abovo the sea of the Lakes in the Great Basin of Lako Winnipeg— Table showing the areas and elm tion abovo the sea of the great Canadian Lakes.