Cuba and Porto Rico, with the other islands of the West Indies, etc

Front matter

CUBA AND PORTO RICO CUBA AND PORTO RICO WITH THE OTHER ISLANDS OF THE WEST INDIES THEIR TOPOGRAPHY,. CLIMATE, FLORA, PRODUCTS, INDUSTRIES, CITIES, PEOPLE, POLITICAL CONDITIONS, ETC. BY ROBERT T. HILL OP THE UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY LONDON T. FISHES UNWIN PATERNOSTER SQUARE Copyright, 1898, By The Century Co. The De Vinne Pres6, New York, U. S. A. TO PROFESSOR ALE.XANDER AGASSIZ THIS WORK IS DEDICATED IN APPRECIATION OF HIS RESEARCHES INTO THE GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST INDIAN SEAS AND ISLANDS CONTENTS

Chapter I The Geographic Relations Of The West Indies Page

Position relative to the continents. Types of the surrounding lands. The east-and-west trends of the Antillean Mountains. Differences between the Gulf and Caribbean basins 1

Chapter II The West Indian Waters

The American Mediterranean. Its area and littorals. Distinctness from the oceanic basins. The currents and winds inducing the equable temperature and conditions of life. The remarkable submarine configuration. The great deeps and flooded mountains. Peculiar aspects of the life of the waters. Influence of the coral polyps in making the rocks of the islands. Passes into the Atlantic 7

Chapter III Classification Of The West Indian Islands

Their number, area, and populations. Antithetic nature of their origin, configuration, and resources. Classification into groups of similar type. The Great Antilles. The Bahamas. The Caribbean chain. The South American islands of the Trinidad type. Reefs and keys. Their political organization 18

Chapter IV The Great Antilles

Their individuality. Distinctness of physical characters from those of the United States. Continental diversity of their configuration as compared with the monotypic character of the other islands. CONTENTS PAGE The Antillean mountain system. Variety of resources. Total population. Diversity of social conditions presented in the four chief islands 27

Chapter V The Island Of Cuba

Physical features. Situation, commercial and strategic position. Outlines, dimensions, area. The configuration. The coast and littoral. Abundance of harbors. The bordering keys. The interior mountain ranges. The plains of Cuba. The cuchillas of the east. The terraces of Guantanamo. Valleys and depressions. Rivers, lakes, and swamps. Caves and scenic features .... 33

Administrative departments. Numerical population. Resum6 of previous history leading to present conditions. Administration and government. Absolutism of authority. Its effects and influences. Religion and education 62

Chapter IX The Resources Of The Island

Agricultural supremacy. The cultivation of sugar. The superior advantages of Cuba for sugar-culture. The plantations described. Tobacco-culture. The vegas of the Vuelta Abajo. Skill of Cuban tobacco-planters. Coffee, fruits, and minor agricultural products. Cattle and live stock. Minerals CONTENTS IX

Chapter X Commerce And Transportation Page

Harbors, railways, highways. Sources of wealth. The large commerce of the island. Commercial value of the island to Spain. Trade with the United States 86

Chapter XI The People Of Cuba

Misconceptions concerning the people of Cuba. Degrees and variety of people. The five classes of people. The Spaniards and other foreigners. The white Cubans. Effects of disenfranchisement and conscriptions. Hospitality, and courtesy. Strong family attachments. The Cuban women. The laboring classes. The colored and black population. No danger of negro supremacy . . 97

Chapter XII Cuban Cities

: HAVANA Large number of cities in proportion to population. Havana and adjacent towns. Imposing appearance from the sea, and picturesque location. The bay and shipping. Prevalent building-material and type of architecture. The central plaza. European aspect of the city. The Prado. Notable structures. Tomb of Columbus. Charitable institutions. Homes and private dwellings. The business streets. Street-cars and carriages. Places of recreation. Pinar del Rio. Cabanas and Mariel 107

Harbors. Railways. Highways. Telegraph. Diversified nature of the agriculture. Large number of small farms. Sugar-estates. Coffee-culture. Menores. Importance of the cattle industry. Commerce and trade. Bad condition of the currency . . . .-158

Chapter XVIII The People

Statistical details of number, sex, nativity, race, and literacy. Excess of males. Small proportion of foreign people. Divisions into classes. The " Spaniards " (white Porto Ricans). The gibaros, or peasantry. The negroes. Former conditions of slavery in Porto Eico 164

(Continued) A model British colony. Respect for law and order. Early history and administration. Agriculture. Rise of the fruit industry. Commerce. Railways. Excellent highways 202

Chapter XXII Jamaica

-(Continued) Cities and villages. Kingston. Spanish Town. Port Antonio. Montego Bay. Rural life. The people. Excess of the black population. Color-line and distinctions. Dress and habits of the blacks. Folk-lore of the negroes. A peculiar alphabet. Dependencies of Jamaica 219

Chapter XXIII The Island Of Santo Domingo

Difficulties of nomenclature. Geographical features of the island. Irregularity of outline. Mountains and valleys. The Alps of the Antilles. Classification of the ranges. Rivers and lakes. Climate. Geology. Fauna 236

Chapter XXIV The Republic Of San Domingo

Political and social conditions of the island as a whole. The republic of San Domingo. Interesting early history. The present government and administration. Commerce and agriculture. Mineral resources. Population. Predominance of mulattos. Old San Domingo city. Early American landmarks. Other points of interest CONTENTS

Chapter XXV The Republic Of Haiti Page

Its mountainous character. Extensive coast-fine. Its constitution and organization. Education and religion. Commerce and revenue. Communication. Cities (Cape Haitien, Port de Paix, Gonaives, St. Marc, Port-au-Prince, Aux Cayes). The people. Supremacy of the blacks. Race antipathies. Personal appearance and domestie relations of the Haitians. Superstitions. The struggle for liberty. The blacks not to blame for the condition of the republic. Island products and commerce 263

Varied nationality and character of the inhabitants. Condition of the native whites. Possibilities of the white race. The negroes. Their general character, habits, and moral condition. Obiism, or witchcraft 387

Chapter Xxxviii The Future Of The West Indies

Vicissitudes which have been survived. Depression of the sugar industry. The bane of alien land-tenure. Bad effect of political distribution.

Prospective relations with the United States . . . 400 Index map of the west indies Frontispiece FACING PAGE TRAVELER'S PALM, GARDEN, ST. PIERRE, MARTINIQUE— NOT INDIGENOUS 16 COCOANUT-PALMS, PLUMB POINT LIGHTHOUSE, JAMAICA . 24 BANIAN-TREE, BRIDGETOWN, BARBADOS 24 PLAZA IN FRONT OF CAPTAIN-GENERAL'S PALACE, HAVANA 32 GEOLOGIC MAP OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA 40 MATANZAS 44 Church of Montserrat— Yumuri Valley, near Matanzas AFTERNOON DRP7E IN RURAL CUBA 48 MATANZAS 62 Drive to the Bellamar Caves— Royal Palms, Sugar-Estate— Official Building HAVANA 57 View in the Botanical Gardens— Fruit-Stand— A Market-Place — "Leche a Domicilio "—Donkeys Loaded with Wood SCENES IN CUBA 60 Pack-Horse Loaded with Rum— A Funeral Car HAVANA 64 Plaza des Armas and Captain-General's Palace— Templete Monument, Erected at Site of First Mass Said in Havana HAVANA 72 Regla, the Brooklyn of Havana, Ferry- Boat in Foreground— At the Boat-Landing— Water-Front, Havana Bay SUGAR-HOUSE ON PLANTATION, CUBA 76 FACING PAGE SCENES IN CUBA 78 A Car-Load of Sugar-Cane, Santa Anna— Cutting Sugar-Cane with Machete SCENES IN CUBA 80 Huts on Solebad Estate, near Cienfuegos— Hormiguera Sugar- Estate, Cienfuegos— Pineapples— Bananas near Cienfuegos MINE OF IRON ORE NEAR JURAGUA, TWELVE MILES EAST OF SANTIAGO DE CUBA 84 HAVANA 88 Morro Castle from the East— Panorama of the Prado SCENES IN CUBA 97 A Country House— A Cuban Peasant House of the Better Sort —Peasant Holding a Wooden Plow A CUBAN TYPE 102 THE SAN CARLOS CLUB, SANTIAGO DE CUBA 104 THE YUMURI VALLEY NEAR MATANZAS, CUBA .... 108 HAVANA 112 Old Church Used as Custom-House— The Cathedral GENERAL VIEW OF HAVANA FROM CABANAS SHORE . .116 MATANZAS— GENERAL VIEW 120 VIEW IN THE PLAZA, CIENFUEGOS 124 SANTIAGO DE CUBA 126 General View— The Cathedral SANTIAGO DE CUBA 128 Smith Key — Morro Castle SANTIAGO DE CUBA 130 Plaza— Calle de Puerto SANTIAGO DE CUBA 132 Plaza — Street Scene — Market — Negroes BARACAO, CUBA 136 PONCE, PORTO RICO 145 Cascade of Plaza de las Delicias— Isabel Street ENTRANCE TO SAN JUAN, PORTO RICO 152 A STATE FUNERAL, SAN JUAN, PORTO RICO 160 PORTO RICO 168 Utuado— Plaza and Cathedral at Arecibo— Palms near San Juan FACING PAGE JAMAICA 185 Port Royal from the Sea— Rock Coast and Pseudo-Atolls, Montego Bay— Harbor of Port Royal JAMAICA 188 Mountain Scenery— Newcastle Barracks EAST INDIAN COOLIES, JAMAICA 192 CELBA-TREE AND COUNTRY ESTATE, JAMAICA 200 CULTIVATION OF SUGAR-CANE, JAMAICA 208 A CELBA OR SILK-COTTON TREE 216 CACTUS AND CHAPARRAL, JAMAICA 216 JAMAICA 220 Country House, Retreat Pen, Clarendon— Kingston Street Scene JAMAICA 224 Negresses Transporting Charcoal — Logwood Collected for Shipment JAMAICANS CARRYING BANANAS— BREADFRUIT-TREE OVER- HEAD 232 SANTO DOMINGO 240 Santo Cerro Church and Nispero de Colon, or Tree of Columbus, beneath which Mass was Celebrated after the Great Victory over the Indians of La Vega— A Street Showing Cathedral SANTO DOMINGO 256 Citadel where Columbus was Imprisoned— Alleged Coffin of

Columbus PORT-AU-PRINCE, HAITI 272 Cathedral— Street Scenes BAHAMAS 296 Cliffs of Eleuthera Island— Watlings Island— United States Consul's House, Nassau— Street Scene, Nassau BAY AND CITY OF ST. THOMAS 312 ENTIRE POPULATION OF A NEGRO HAMLET, ANTIGUA . .320 ANTIGUA 322 Street Showing Cathedral and Public Library, St. John— Sugar-Estate ST. JOHN, ANTIGUA 324 A Suburban Highway— View of City and Harbor FORT-DE-FRANCE, MARTINIQUE , .

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE CARIBBEE ISLANDS 328 Town of Bottom, Island of Saba, Situated in an Old Crater— Gustavia, St. Bartholomew ST. KITTS 332 Public Garden— View MARKET, GUADELOUPE 338 CARIB INDIANS MAKING BASKETS, DOMINICA 340 MARTINIQUE 345 Statue of Josephine— Old Mill on Estate where Josephine was Born MARTINIQUE 348 Landing, St. Pierre— St. Pierre TYPES OF WOMEN, MARTINIQUE 352 Fille de Couleur— French Negress— Negro Woman— Mulatto Girl ST. LUCIA 357 Plantations near South End— One of the Pi tons ST. VINCENT 360 Georgetown — Kingstown ST. VINCENT 362 Sugar-Plantation, Fort Davinet— Windward Coast— Market GRENADA 364 St. George's Harbor— St. George TRINIDAD 366 Public Offices— Port of Spain PITCH LAKE, TRINIDAD 368 TRINIDAD 370 Coolies— Coolie Houses BARBADOS 373 Gathering Sugar-Cane— Public Library, Bridgetown— Laundresses — Turning the Windmill BRIDGETOWN ROADSTEAD, BARBADOS 374 BARBADOS 376 Street Scene, Bridgetown— Country Church— Landing Wharf, Bridgetown BARBADIAN NEGROES . . . .' 378 Group of Overseers— Trinket-Seller— Pottery- Vender FACING PAGE COAST VIEWS, BARBADOS 380 Rolled Boulder from Elevated Reef— Horizontal Sea Erosion of Rolled Boulders— Effect of Trade- Winds on Vegetation- Bathing Beach and Elevated Reef —Sea- Coast Scene— Elevated Reef Terrace BARBADIAN TYPES 387 Fisherman— Earthenware-Seller— Street Arab TYPES, BARBADOS AND GUADELOUPE 388 Going to Market, Barbados— Field- Hands, Barbados (Note Characteristic Barbadian Heads)— Woman in Characteristic Costume, French Mulatto, Guadeloupe ST. VINCENT 390 Carib Indians— Carib Rock-Inscriptions ST. VINCENT 392 Negro Hut— African Basket- Wattle House, Board House, Adaptation of Same ANTIGUA AND BARBADOS 394 Negro Hut, Antigua— Negroes and Low Whites, East Side of Barbados — Fisherman's Hut, Barbados NEGRO HUT, ST. VINCENT 396 SUGAR-CULTURE, BARBADOS 400 Newcastle Sugar-Mill— Spreading Bagasse to Dry for Fuel— Cane-Grinding by Windmill Power IMPOVERISHED SUGAR-ESTATES, BARBADOS