Observations on the Colonies of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land. (A Letter on Nomenclature, addressed to M. Quatremère de Quincey, etc.)

Preface

. When an individual submits to the Public the result of his observations regarding subjects, on which many of the readers have not had opportu nities of examining the evidence that may have formed the foundation of his deductions, it is certainly advisable, that the latter should be made aware of the opportunities the Author has possess ed of collecting such information ; in order that he may appreciate, in some measure, the intrinsic value of what is intended to be communicated. I proceeded to Van Diemen's Land from Bengal, in 1829, on account of my health; and after having recovered a portion of my usual strength, I made several short pedestrian excursions from Hobart Town into the interior of the country. So soon as I considered myself capable of undergoing the fatigue, I went across the Island, in the direction of Launceston; and then taking an Easterly course, towards the sea coast, I returned to Hobart Town, by Oyster Bay and Process Plains.

I afterwards coasted along the eastern side of the Island ; and made, during nearly a year's residence in the Colony, other pedestrian expeditions through the country. Being naturally anxious to render my temporary visit as generally beneficial as the opportunities I possessed would admit, and being fully convinced of the great and mutual advantage which would result from the measure, I endeavoured to pave the way for officers from the East Indies, who might desire to form permanent settlements in these Colonies, instead of retiring to their native country, after their stated periods of service had been com pleted. Through the liberality of the Lieutenant- Governor, my first efforts were partially successful ; but those which I afterwards attempted, having a similar object in view, were however by no means equally fortunate.

I next endeavoured to organize a Society, for the collection and publication of information pecu liar to these Colonies ; as well for the purpose of affording the world an opportunity of becoming more intimately acquainted with their productions and formation, as to bring to light their latent sources of wealth, for the benefit of the European emigrant. I experienced much more difficulty in this undertaking than I had previously anticipated ; but aware of the superior advantages which might result from so powerful an engine, compared with what a single unassisted individual could accomplish, I conceived my time would be more usefully employed in the former attempt, than in personally endeavouring to collect a small proportion of the extensive materials. The enterprize at first ap- V peared to succeed far beyond my expectations, and on the Society being opened in 1830, it ranked amongst its members almost all the heads of the departments of the Government, as well as most of the respectable settlers throughout the Island.

A paper containing a portion of what is mentioned, in the second and third chapters of the second part of this work, was read by me at the Opening Ad dress; and although the latter has apparently no very intimate connection with the subjects of the present publication, I have not deemed it advisable to separate them, lest my reasons, for the line of in vestigation I have adopted, might chance to be misinterpreted. On looking around, however, I soon perceived, that I had merely collected amongst the members, a number of spectators : and that few of these were capable, and fewer still were willing, without some personal advantage, to lend their assistance, in pro moting the objects of the Institution. I was unable to supply any immediate remedy for so vital a de fect; but being impressed with the conviction, that the only effectual one, however tardy its operation, must be derived from the extension of useful information, through all classes of the community, and observing, at the same time, the powerful influence which a body like this would possess, in carrying such a measure into execution, I strenuously direct ed their attention to the foundation of a National Seminary of Education, which should be commenced VI under their own auspices, and that of the members of the Legislative Council.

At first, the mea sure was unanimously acquiesced in; but jealousy and discord had already made serious inroads into the heart of our Society, whose component parts, on account of the generally insulated nature of colonial pursuits, were merely cemented to one another, by motives of selfish interest ; and when the measure was now ready to be carried into ac tive operation, its further progress was negatived by those very individuals, who had been distin guished in its previous stages as its warmest advocates. Feeling anxious to call attention to the necessity of still adopting the same measure, I conceive myself justified in claiming attention to the plan I was then desirous of introducing; the more so, as I am satisfied, that at no distant period, some simi lar one must become indispensable, in consequence of the steady and rapid improvement, which is at present going forward amongst the different Eu ropean nations.

It was to have been begun on the smallest scale, and as no buildings were to have been constructed at its commencement, no other expence was to have been incurred than could have been defrayed with advantage by the relatives of the pupils. An addition of masters for new branches of science was to have been made annually ; while preliminary schools, in connection with the first, were gradually to have been dispersed over the country. So soon as the means had been afforded, it would have been necessary, in order to insure the full operation of these Institutions, that a certain and prescribed moiety of education should have been insisted on through means of a legislative enactment ; and as these seminaries were improved, and the prejudices of the lower classes gradually eradicated, these regulations should like wise have undergone a corresponding alteration.

The principal instruction communicated in the highest seminary was to have been the sciences, as they might exist at the particular period, after having been reduced to a simple and condensed form; and these should have been taught, in a fixed progres sive order, as might appear best adapted to expand the mental faculties of the individual. Along with the above, professions and the principal arts and handicrafts should have formed a necessary portion of education ; so that each student, whatever might be his future destination, might likewise possess a hand capable of executing what his mind had previously conceived. Lastly, although ample opportunities should have been eventually afforded of acquiring the foreign and ancient languages, as well as those branches in which real knowledge is not directly communicated ; still these should no longer have been considered as either indispensable, or as unavoidable preliminaries to the acquirement of every description of useful information.

From Van Diemen's Land I proceeded to New South Wales; and continued to reside at Sydney for several months. With the view of examining the Geological formation of the country, and comparing it with Van Diemen's Land, I made another pedestrian excursion, in a westerly direction, into the interior of the country. Having arrived at Wellington, which is about 240 miles from Sydney, I remained there for some time, in order to observe the phenomena attending the deposition of those fossil remains which have lately been discovered in the Limestone Rock. Having, at the request of General Darling, prepared on his account, a collection of these for transmission to England, I addressed to him a Report on the subject ; and the one here published, has been prepared from notes, which 1 happened to have retained in my possession.

As I have elsewhere mentioned, I had at this time some favourable opportunities of communicating with the natives in the vicinity ; and under stood from them, that they believed in the existence of a large Inland sea lying directly west,at a distance of 10 day's journey, or 200 miles from Wellington valley. They stated, on the authority of a westerly tribe, that the opposite shore was not visible, nor did they conceive that any other land was to be found, by crossing over in that direction. Upon the banks of this lake or inland sea, animals of a large and fearful size were said to be met with ; congregating in herds : but it did not distinctly appear that they were considered to be carnivorous. I was induced to give some degree of credit to this account, from observing the general correctness of the statements of natives, when these related to local circumstances : and likewise, be cause it was in this instance corroborated by the geological structure of the country, as far as oppor tunities had been afforded me of observation.

The stratum had evidently begun to decline to the westward and southward, and had assimilated more with the clay ; the country had become swampy, and the soil had received into its com position a larger proportion of saline particles. The recent discoveries of Captain Sturt had proved that a salt-water river, opened into the Murrin bijjee, in a direction which corresponded with this account ; while my own researches had also shewn, that a large piscivorous animal had existed, in con siderable numbers, during former periods ; indeed it seemed to me extremely probable, that this part of the report of the natives might have allusion to some new species of hippopotamus. Having made my arrangements, I proposed to General Darling to proceed in that direction, for the purpose of investigating the truth of so impor tant a fact; provided I might be furnished with four convicts, selected by myself, with surveying instruments, and all necessary provisions, &c. ; these last items to have been supplied at my private expence.

X The king of a westerly tribe was to have accom panied us, and as he was on friendly terms with the tribe, within whose hunting grounds this Inland Sea was said to be found, he seemed confident of our not receiving from them a hostile reception. As we were, however, to have been attended with other natives, and all of us at the same time to have been well provided with fire arms, I did not con ceive, that with common precautions, we should have much to dread from the insidious assaults of the aborigines. Aware that the chief difficulty in such expedi tions, would be experienced in the carriage of sup plies, and understanding that the country through which we had to pass contained abundance of kangaroos and emus, I proposed to have chiefly depended for subsistence on the animals which we ourselves or the natives might destroy.

We should have taken along with us some superior kangaroo dogs, and I believed that there was but little chance of our ever being in want of oppossums. In case of necessity, a quantity of flour, tea, sugar, &c. was however to have been carried on bullocks, and these were to have been slaughtered for food, so soon as we might have occasion for them, after having consumed their burthens. I proposed to have proceeded on foot, as the marshy nature of the country at this season did not appear to be well adapted for any other mode of travelling ; also to have employed extensive bark boats, for trans porting our baggage over such rivers as we were likely to meet with. Should we however have at length reached our destination, we intended to have immediately commenced preparing a canoe, out of the trunk of a tree ; and we had calculated on this being accomplished within four or five days.

Having affixed to it a keel, from materials we were to have carried along with us, we intended to have embarked, and endeavour to examine the limits of this salt-water Lake or Inland Sea, for a short distance in a northerly direction. We should afterwards have taken a southerly course, in order, if possible, to have discovered the com munication of its waters with those of the Murrin bijjee; and having been so far successful, we pro posed to have then returned, by sailing up this river, towards its source in the settled district of Argyle. As my proposal did not appear to coincide with the views of Government, I next determined on proceeding from Wellington towards the river Hunter; and from thence to Sydney, by a mountain road which is now constructing. In addition to the opportunity thus afforded me of inspecting a settled district, situated in a somewhat warmer climate, I expected to have likewise corrected my previous observations on the geological structure of the country, by making another section of it, in a more southerly direction.

The distance by the shortest route, had been estimated at from 350 or 400 miles. This however by no means appeared to constitute the most formidable obstacle to our journey; for a considerable portion of our way lay through an uninhabited and extremely hilly country, which has hitherto been but little explored ; and we likewise required to recross that lofty sandstone range from whence the rivers are observed to pursue opposite courses, according as they derive their origin, from the eastern or western aspect of the mountain. In addition to the above, I was disappointed in procuring a native guide, whom I expected to have accompanied me ; and the pocket compass, I had employed in my other excursions, had also been unfortunately lost. I was however now become by practice tolerably well able to find my way through the forest, by calculating the proper direction from the position of the sun ; and as I could not again expect to possess a second opportunity, I determined, in spite of these difficulties, on attempting to accom plish my present purpose.

A servant, a native of Hindostan, accompanied me in this expedition. The Macquarie river was highly flooded, while the current was rapid in the extreme. As I possessed no means of conveying our provisions across, we required to proceed about 20 miles further down the river, for the purpose of obtaining the assistance of some natives, who were commonly to be found near a stock hut, which was then inhabited by Government con victs. Although we had carried along with us, in addition to our oppossum cloaks, six or seven days' provisions, this quantity had been reduced to nearly one-half ere we started from the opposite side of the river; in consequence of our being detained for several days at this place, partly from being unable to get across, and partly in the ex pectation of still procuring a native guide, to ac company us through the first portion of the journey.

Having crossed the river in a native boat, and perceiving that we had no longer a chance of pro curing a guide to direct us, we lost no time in recommencing our expedition. The direction we required to pursue was east north east ; and the sun being then considerably to the northward, it seemed by no means difficult to calculate this course, with a sufficient degree of accuracy. The weather had undergone a change, and in place of almost constant rain and snow, we had now merely slight spring showers, occurring after considerable intervals of sun-shine. We required to cross a range of mountains that appeared about eight or nine miles from the river. On the other side of this, we were told, we should find a large stream, whose waters form a portion of the Macquarie ; and that by tracing this up towards its source, we should speedily arrive at a pass through those blue mountains which constitute the principal line of division of the eastern side of the country.

The former seemed at a little distance to possess no great elevation; but on surmounting the first hills, others of a much loftier description came immediately into view. These last were covered at their tops with one of the Australian species of pine ; and owing to the steepness, it required us to employ our utmost exertion, in order to gain the nearest summit. Being the stronger of the two, and perhaps also more anxious to observe the landmarks from the opposite side, I happened to be considerably in advance, as we were just approaching this point. It will not, I imagine, be difficult to conceive my surprise at this moment, when on looking over the narrow crest of the mountain, the first objects that presented them selves were three bush-rangers, within a few yards of the place where I was ascending.

These men, however, did not seem to perceive me ; but continued to move slowly along the other side of the crest. I therefore immediately considered that they must have traced our course from this elevation, as we proceeded along the plains ; yet, as we were concealed from them during our ascent, they probably expected we should have issued from the forest at a less precipitous portion of the mountain. Not anticipating the probability of a meeting of this kind, in a situation where provisions must have been procured with extreme difficulty, I was so little prepared, that my gun, the only weapon in our possession, had not been even charged. By making a circuit, I was enabled to communicate the information to my servant ; and while in the act of loading, a dog gave us warning of the approach of other persons in the very di rection we had previously taken.

It was therefore tolerably evident, that we were now in the centre of a horde of outlaws: and this being probably one of the private retreats, frequented by them, when ever their depredations, amidst the settled districts, had excited a more than common vigilance in the authorities, it was not to be expected that they would permit us to pass, and thereby endanger their own lives, by betraying their secret to the Police. It was therefore obviously necessary to avoid them, if possible ; provided however we should be unable to effect this, we had determined on no ac count to have submitted, so long as we had any means of defence remaining in our possession. A narrow gorge or crest lay at a short distance on our right ; and as a deep chasm divided the mountain it led to, from the one on which we then stood, I conceived we should yet have a fair chance of escape, provided we could reach this point unmolested.

In this attempt we were suecessful; and now aware of the accuracy with which even Europeans in this country can be habituated to trace a footstep, we lost no time in pursuing a devious course over the most in tricate and rocky paths we could select. The sun had been set for some time, before we could reach the plains on the opposite side of the mountain. Near the foot of these we found a broad stream, highly flooded and flowing to the westward with considerable velocity. Here we made our arrangements for cooking, and for passing the night. Nothwithstanding the distance we had come, it appeared more than probable that we should still be closely pursued. In this case, the course of the river at which we had arrived, must necessarily be followed by both parties ; while the glare cast on surrounding objects by our fire, would guide them directly to our position.

We therefore deemed it prudent to rest at a little dis tance from it, in such a manner, that I might either be enabled to take a correct aim at their figures, as they approached between us and the light, or to observe their movements, so as to avoid them on the ensuing morning. The night was cold in the extreme, a heavy dew continued to fall, and with only the thin co vering of an oppossum's skin rug, our sensations were far indeed from enviable : the piercing cold, together with the peculiar circumstances in which we were situated, rendered us particularly vigi lant ; and when for a few moments we happened to be overcome with fatigue, the shrill call of the oppossum, or the midnight blast, that rushed at intervals through the foliage, was sufficient to arouse us from our slumbers. The morning star was therefore hailed by us with satisfaction, and ere the dawn had completely spread itself over the horizon, we were again prepared to recommence our labors.

Our course led us for some time along the banks of the river, through rich but narrow plains, surrounded on all sides by lofty ridges : there were, however, none of the common foot-paths present to indicate that these meadows had yet been discovered by the wild cattle, nor were there any burned trees to mark the line in which the aborigines were in the habits of traversing them. We soon reached a portion of the river where it received a large branch, which we afterwards found to flow from the east-south-east, although its direction was then apparently from the east-north-east. Had it been in ray power, I should have preferred immediately crossing this stream; but the measure was abandoned because, although both of us were tolerably expert swimmers, the rapid current, combined with the cold, would have rendered it extremely hazardous ; while it would in all probability have required us to sacrifice our provisions, as well as other necessaries, in making the attempt.

We had not proceeded many miles from this point, before the hills began to close in gradually towards the river ; and as its waters commenced flowing from a more southerly direction, its bed became confined by precipitous mountains, which were rendered extremely slippery, by being covered with minute fragments of clay schistus. Our easiest path was found generally at a short distance up the mountain; but even there we could not advance without very considerable difficulty, along with some degree of danger. Sometimes we re quired to crawl on our hands and feet ; sometimes to slide down the declivities, and to trust to some intervening tree or brush-wood, to prevent our being precipitated into the river, that now rolled onwards with the velocity of a mountain torrent. We had been informed, at setting out, that we should this day have reached a solitary stock hut ; but it was evident that we might in vain expect to meet with it, amidst regions such as those through which we were traversing.

The direction we had been pursuing, I was aware, if continued, must have conducted us into a barren and mountainous country, situated between the rivers Hunter and the Hawkesburgh : and the time it would have required, in order to strike the road at that period constructing betwixt Newcastle and Sydney, could not, at the most moderate computation, have been less than eleven or twelve days. In this calculation, I had also assumed, that we should be enabled to proceed in a more direct route ; for in addition to the difficulties that have been men tioned, it was obvious, from the circuitous course of the bed of the river, that we had now to walk over upwards of four miles, for each one we advanced in real distance ; and that, likewise, 45 degrees from our proper line of direction. We therefore came to the immediate resolution of suspending the further consumption of our provisions, excepting what would be absolutely necessary for the support of our existence; determining to trust to such accidental resources as we might meet with on the way, for the purpose of enabling us to continue the fatigue of the journey.

We were some time this evening in discovering a shelving part of the mountain, where the water could be procured with facility, and likewise sufficiently broad to permit of our going to sleep with safety. This was the only night, I believe, when either of us experienced any particular incon venience from hunger. We also suffered somewhat from the cold; partly from having been too much exhausted to collect a sufficient supply of fire wood, and partly owing to the diminution of tem perature, which had been the consequence of an increased elevation. Next morning we succeeded in crossing the stream, and afterwards ascended a mountain on the opposite bank. The view XX however, although extensive, afforded us but little satisfaction. Far as the eye could reach, no valley could be discerned, where the habitation of man might reasonably be expected ; but mountain con tinued to peer over mountain, in dull cheerless monotony.

I must however hurry over the history of this expedition, the details of it being but slightly con nected with the subsequent observations. Finding it almost impracticable to make any perceptible ad vance, either by pursuing the narrow ridges on the summit, or the tortuous gullies underneath, we were reluctantly obliged to return to the river, and to trace it upwards to its source. The mountains were gradually succeeded in its immediate vicinity, by low hills covered with tolerable pasture, and the paths of wild cattle were again observed to cross one another, in almost every direction. We like wise sometimes perceived several herds of these at a distance ; but quadrupeds and birds appeared to be very sparingly distributed, and we only started a single kangaroo during the whole of our expedi tion.

One day, however, I shot a black-colored bird, of the oriole kind, somewhat smaller than a magpie ; and this, eked out with the feathers and bones, constituted the whole of our food for 24 hours. On another day, I likewise killed two more of the same species. Still there was a disagreeable reflection that served as a counterpoise to the enjoyment which this partial success would have afforded ; for the small quantity of powder I had brought with me to Wellington, had been nearly expended, previous to our departure ; and on examination it was now discovered, that two charges composed the whole of our remaining supply. I conceive, however, that we derived our principal support from the water ; and it was probably owing to this cause, that on going to sleep at night, we used immediately to be covered with profuse per spiration, although at the same instant we might have been shivering from the cold.

Perhaps, had we possessed a proper instrument, we should have suc ceeded in abstracting an oppossum from the crevices in the trees. We generally went in search of these animals when the light of the moon was brightest; but although we could distinctly hear them calling, we were always unsuccessful in discovering their exact position. This might be attributable to our want of perseverance in the pursuit ; for as the moon happened to be on the wane, our joints had become painfully stiffened by the time of its appearance, both from the effects of cold and fatigue ; so that even the natural desire to preserve existence, seemed no longer to be a sufficient inducement to additional exertion. The morning of the fifth day found us still on the banks of the same stream, which had now however dwindled into a pretty rivulet.

On the previous evening, we had observed that high mountains were again extended on all sides of us, but more particularly towards the east ; and I therefore entertained strong expectations that we were at length in the immediate vicinity of the great dividing range. The night had proved particularly chill, nor had we been able to procure any addition to our supply of food, during the whole of the previous day. We had however begun to remark, as we passed, the qualities of the different vegetable productions ; and had we been longer in reaching a place, where we could obtain supplies, we had determined to try the effects of boiling, on certain of the lichens, as well as on the softer portions of the grass tree. Latterly in our search, we had not deemed it prudent to overlook even the frogs, and their bold and vigorous croakings begun to be listened to with particular attention : but they, as well as the oppossums, appeared to be indued with a capacity for concealment ; and whenever we approached their watery habitations, they invariably ceased to favor us with their warblings.

Towards dawn, a heavy fall of snow took place, which covered the surface of the ground to some little depth. It had nearly extinguished our fire, and in this case, we should indeed have been suffi ciently miserable ; for we had no means remaining of again rekindling it. As the day broke, the sun was likewise so obscured that we could no longer tell the proper direction, and were therefore obliged to remain in our present dreary bivouac, awaiting the partial dissipation of the clouds. Our strength had been somewhat exhausted by over exertion; an œdematous swelling of the legs and ancles, probably occasioned by continued immersion in the water, had not subsided, as it formerly did, towards the morning ; and our shoes, which had be come twisted, from walking sideways along the mountain, now began to give us very considerable uneasiness.

Fortunately for us, the day however cleared up, so that we were once more enabled to quit our damp uncomfortable situation. Leaving altogether the stream, we now continued along the ridges, choosing those which corresponded the nearest to our proper line of direction. We found ourselves, in a short time, on the verge of a mountain preci pice, which was separated in some measure from all the others ; and a comparatively open country was seen far extending to the eastward. The view had indeed undergone a change, and was now be come varied and beautiful. Lofty table mountains were visible in the distance ; while others, crowned with spiral rocks, exhibited a wild and strangely grotesque appearance. Towards the north-east, however, the ground was gently undulating ; and as the sun-beams at intervals burst from under the heavy clouds, we thought we could detect the bright green traces of cultivation, contrasting with the sombre colors of the Australian foliage.