The Annals of Dumfermline and vicinity ... 1069-1878. Interspersed with ... notes, ... and ... engravings

Preface

. A GREAT many years have elapsed since the writer began to collect materials for the Annals of Dunfermline, his native city. His object was to arrange events and notanda in chronological order, as he was convinced that a much clearer conception of the rise and progress of a town would be obtained under such an arrangement, than by the method usually adopted in compiling such works. The writer never had the slightest idea of publishing his notanda. They were written for his own private use for reference. On showing them to a number of his archæological and other friends, they expressed perhaps a too favourable opinion of their contents, and strongly urged him to pass them through the press. For some years he refused to do so, but their continued solicitations over came his opposition, and he resolved to prepare his collection for publication.

The materials composing the Annals have been collected chiefly from original sources — from the Chartularies of Scottish Abbeys and religious houses — from the early and modern "Histories of Scotland" — from various scarce topographical and similar works — from the manuscript Records of the Burgh, the Guildry, the Regality, and the Parish — from Charters in the Burgh Charter Chest — from the Journals of several of the Incorporated Trades of 'the Burgh— from Titlc-Deeds of old houses — from old and modern Magazines and Newspapers, and from letters written by old inhabitants. A list of the works consulted by the writer for the ANNALS will be found at the end of the Addenda.

PREFACE.

. II It is not to be expected that a work, consisting of such a large mass of heterogeneous materials, drawn from such a variety of sources, which are in many instances conflicting, can be entirely free from slips of the pen. The Annals would require to go, like other similar works, through several editions to get the Errata cleared away, and the Omissa filled in. It is to be hoped, however, that any errata that may be discovered will be found unimportant. Now that the work is in type, it will be seen that the ANNALS commence with the year 1069 — the earliest authentic date referring to Dunfermline ; and that they come down to the end of the year 1878 — thus extending over the wide space of about 809 years. Between the first date and the middle of the sixteenth century many blank spaces will be .observed, in several instances there are consider able stretches of time without any recorded fact.

Such gaps could not be bridged over for want of authentic details. After the middle of the sixteenth century, incidents, notanda, etc., occur for yearly entries, and, as time flows on nearer to our day, they increase in such numbers that many of the later dates will be found charged with numerous and varied details. To the general reader many of the notanda may appear to be of little importance, but, by the natives of "the old grey city" and the western district of Fife, they will, it is hoped, be appreciated. To readers who wish for further and fuller information regarding any of the entries, ample references are given, naming the work, the volume, and the page from which they were extracted, also the Appendix and the Addenda at the end of the work contain full particulars of many interesting events, etc., referred to in the Annals, which will be useful to the reader.

Numerous engravings, many of them never before published, embellish the ANNALS as illustrations of "Dunfermline in the olden time." To local readers, it is to be hoped, they will be interesting; and, to the outside public who are strangers to the locality, they will be serviceable as "graphic helps" to the letter-press descriptions in the text. It may be mentioned here, that during the progress of the work through the press, Mr. Tweed, our publisher, resolved

PREFACE.

. to increase the number of illustrations. He has, therefore, at con siderable expense added ten engravings to the original list, viz., four Sculptured Stones at pp. 266, 297, 301, and 437; View of the Palace Ruins, p. 408 ; Rev. Ralph Erskine's Kirk, p. 438 ; the Antiburgher Kirk, p. 521; the Guildhall, p. 577, View of the City of Dunfermline, p. 1, and the Frontispiece. Many of the kind friends who rendered the writer assistance when the Annals were commenced have long since passed away. Their memories are held by him in such sacred remembrance, that he feels it to be a duty, as well as a gratification to himself, to record their names, viz., Rev. George Bell Brand, Andrew Mercer, Rev. Henry Fergus, Archibald Haxton, James Morris, Alexander Kilgour, John Bonnar, Joseph N. Paton, John S. Soutar, Rev. Peter Chalmers, D.D., David Birrell, Laurence Wilson, and David- Laurie ; and the names of those who resided at a distance, His Eminence Cardinal Wiseman, Rev. C. Holahan (Sub-Prior of St. Edmund's College, Douay, France), the Rev. T. Hoskins (Valladolid, Spain), David D. Black, Brechin, and David Laing, LL.D., Edinburgh, lately deceased.

Among those who have rendered the writer valuable assistance during the progress of the Annals through the press, his special thanks are due to the Provost, Magistrates, and Town Council of the Burgh, for allowing him the free use of their Records ; to Mr. John Landale, Town Clerk, and to Mr. William Simpson, solicitor, for transcripts of, and extracts from, old charters, etc. ; to Mr. George Robertson, for archæological notes, drawings of sculptured and lettered stones, and of other local objects, engravings from several of which illustrate the ANNALS; to Mr. George Birrell, for interesting notanda ; to Mr. Robert Steedman, for memoranda connected with the statistics of Dunfermline ; to Mr. George Stuart, for extracts from several old Burgh minutes; to Rev. Wm. Barrack, LL.D., late Rector of Dollar Institution, now Rector of Kelvinside Academy, Glasgow, for his translations of several old charters, deeds, etc., and other literary assistance; and to the Rev. William Ross, LL.D.,

PREFACE.

. Bridge of Allan, for historical notes relating to the Burgh and its vicinity. The writer now closes his work, and once more expresses his cordial thanks to all who have in any way assisted him with The Annals of Dunfermline. Astral Villa, Muckart, Perthshire, December yd, 1878. CONTENTS (abridged). A.D. 1069 — IIOI. TAGH Preliminary Notes— Culdee Establishment — St. Margaret's Hope and Stone — Situation of Dunfermline — Arrival of Edgar the Atheling — Nuptials of Malcolm III. and Margaret — Founding of Dunfermline Church — Foundation Charter- Queen Margaret's Innovations — St. Margaret's Oratory Cave — The Family of Malcolm and Margaret — Royal Interments — Deaths of Malcolm III., Queen Margaret, Prince Edward, and Duncan II. — Cumerlachi, . . . 1-26 A.D. IIOI — I20I. Nomina Locorum — Royal Gifts — Death and Interment of King Edgar — Dunfermline a Royal Burgh— Royal Gifts — Church Finished and Dedicated — Re-interment of Malcolm III. — Interment of Alexander I. — Dunfermline Abbey and Monastery — Translation of Monks from Canterbury to Dunfermline— Royal Burgh — Gaufrid, the First* Abbot — Translations ot the Confirmation Charters of David I. — Inverkeithing Church— Romish Consecration of the Abbey — Death and Interment of David I. — Gifts, Donations, and Charters — Dunkeld Church — Bull of Alexander III. — Death and Interment of Malcolm IV. — Confirmation Charter of William the Lion— Gift of Bondmen and Children to the Abbey — Queensferry — Lighting the Abbey Church, &c, ....... 27-64 A.D. I20I — 13OI.

Bishop Malvoisine and his Wine Dispute— Seal of Abbot Patrick — Abercrombie Church — Bull of Pope Innocent III. — Extension of Dunfermline Abbey — View of Dunfermline Abbey, circa 1226 — Capitular Seal of the Abbey- Chartulary of Dunfermline Abbey — Dollar Forest Charters — Mitred Abbot — Lord Abbot of Dunfermline — Caps or Bonnets for the Monks — The Miracles of St. Margaret — Excommunication Privileges — The Organ of the Abbey — Non-Consecration of the New Choir — The Tomb and Miracles of St. Margaret — Translation of St. Margaret — St. Margaret Nomina Locorum — The Culdees — Perth, Dispute — Phantom Warriors — Netherton and Garvock Burn — Death and Interment of Margaret, Consort of Alexander III. — Deaths of Princes David and Alexander — Charter of the Queensferry Boatmen — The Blessed Margaret's Chamber — The "King sits in Dunfermline Toun, drinking the bluid-red Wine " — Sir Patrick Spens— Seal of Abbot Ralph — Death and Interment of Alexander III. — Pittencrieff Coal Charter — Edward I. of England in Dunfermline — John Baliol, &c, 65-100 A.D. 130I — I4OI.

Sir William Wallace and his Mother — King Edward I. of England in Dunfermline — The Monastery Burned — Monastery Re-Building — The Abbey Chartulary — CONTENTS. VI I'AUE 147 182 Excommunication— King Robert the Bruce and a Perpetual Light — Randolph, Earl of Moray, Charter — Cocquet Seal and Charter — Abbot Robert's Charter to the Burgh of Dunfermline — Great Customs of Dunfermline — David II. Born in Dunfermline— West Port— St. Catherine's Chapel — Life of Sir William Wallace by Blair — Death and Interment of Elizabeth the Queen —Charters, &c. — Death and Interment of King Robert the Bruce — Expenses of his Funeral and Tomb — Perpetual Vicar of Inverkeithing — Death and Interment of Randolph, Earl of Moray — A Parliament held in Dunfermline — Edward Baliol and his Army in Dunfermline — The Town of Kirkcaldy given to the Abbey — Absolution — Con firmation Charter of David II. — The Tron and Customs — Death and Interment of Matilda Bruce — St. Leonard's Chapel and Hospital — Arrestment of the Tron and Customs — The Vicarage of Dunfermline — St. John's Chapel, Garvock — Birth of James I. in the Palace — Aldermen of Dunfermline — Charter of Abbot John to Dunfermline Burgh — Old Burgh Seal — The Market Cross — Meeting of Commissioners, &c, .......... 107- A.D. I40I — I 501.

Death and Interment of Queen Annabella — The Monks' Vestments — Seisen — "A sair Saint to the Croun" — James I. in Dunfermline — Archery — Pitfirrane Charter — Great Famine and Pest in Dunfermline — The Vicar's Pension — Body of a Child Found in the Royal Cemetery — Sacrist of the Abbey — Provost of Dunfermline (the first one so-named) — St. Margaret's Altar — Confirmation Charter of James II. — Butter, Milk, &c. — St. Laurence's Croft — St. Giles's Church, Edinburgh — Musselburgh — Stirling — Burgh Records — New Raw and Netherton — Collier Raw — Robert Henryson (poet) — Nether Yett and Common Vennel — Collier Raw Port — Town-Clerk of Dunfermline — St. James's Chapel — Silver Basin and Ewer — Orlege Bell — Coldingham Priory — Casisgait (High Street) — Rotten Row — East Port — Burgesses — First Election of the Town Council — Culprits and Burgh Fines — Provosts — Foir Speaker (Advocate) — The Secret Yett — Our Lady's Altar " Lichts "—^The Foul Vennel — Altars in the Abbey — Weavers — Strublances — The Abbey Service — Raffaelle Sansoni, the Abbot— The Stocks — The Bakers of Dunfermline — The Pest — Death of Henryson, the Poet — List of Henryson's Poetical Pieces — Smiths, Masons, and Wrights — The Lear Stane — Abbey Monks and Chaplains — Market Cross — Names of Altars in the Abbey — Names of Streets — Trades in Dunfermline — A Web of "Canne," &c, . . 149- A.D. I 501 — l6oi.

James Stewart, Commendator of Dunfermline — Dunbar's Poem — " Endentoure" — Sword of State — Coldingham Priory — The Abbot Slain on Flodden Field — The Pest — Inchgarvie Charter — The Abbey Spoilzed — The Pest and "Het Sickness " — Usufructuarius — Pluscardine — Dunfermline Guild Court — Adam Blackwood — Charter by the Abbot — The Palace Enlarged and Altered — Confirmation Charter of Abbot Drury — Kinross and Orwell — Wester Kinghorn — Burgh Records — Kirkcaldy Charter — St. John's Chapel — Rev. David Ferguson of Dunfermline — The Reformation — Relics of St. Margaret— Destruction of Dunfermline Abbey — Dunfermline Abbey Possessions — Rental of the Abbey — Rosythe Castle — Queen Mary in Dunfermline — Kirk of Dunfermline Repaired — St. Catherine's Chapel and Yard — Pitfirrane Charter regarding Silver Plate — Commendator of the Abbey — Abbey Nave Repaired — Rev. David Ferguson's Sermon — Schoolmasters of Dunfermline — Sunday Play in the Nave of the Kirk VIEW OF THE CITY OF DUNFERMLINE FROM SOUTHEAST.

CONTENTS. IX PAGE Prohibited — Burial of the Laird of Rosythe — City of Dunfermline — The Earl of Athol's Remains — Guildry Minute-Book— Regality Court — Fermelodunum— King James VI. in Dunfermline —The Pest— Death of the Commendator — Danish Ambassadors — Meeting of the Clergy Frustrated — Temporalities of the Abbey, &c. — Confirmation Charter of James VI. — Burgh Matrix Seal — The Queen's House — A Dunfermline Witch — Murder of the Earl of Moray — Rati fication Charter — Auld Kirk Steeple and Porch- Door — Princess Elizabeth Born in Dunfermline — Black Saturday— Charles I. Born in Dunfermline — Queen Ann of Denmark's House, 183-255 A.D. l6oi — I7OI. Palace Repaired — Lord Ogilvie Searched — Death of William Schaw — Death of Prince Robert — Rev. John Davidson — Earldom of Dunfermline — Collier Row and East Ports — Gunpowder Plot — Constable of the Palace — Repairing the Nave: — Free Burgesses — Great Earthquake — East Port Repaired— Queen Ann's Mortification — Pittencriesf House — Tower Bridge — Pitreavie — Communicants Enrolled — Royal Burying Vault — James VI.

Visits Dunfermline — Ruinous State of the Nave — Regality House — Death of the Earl of Dunfermline — The Hill House, and Hebrew Inscriptions — Free Burgesses — Great Fire of Dunfermline — Grammar School — Market Cross — The Crosswynd Fire-Stane — Slanderers— " God- Bless -this -House " Stone — Charles I. in Dunfermline — Auld Kirk Pulpit — Sculptured Stone — The National Covenant — Rosythe Castle — Patrick Mayne, the Witch- Burner — Yule Feasting— Carnock Kirk — Meeting of Heritors — Solemn League and Covenant — Dunfermline Church Collegiate — Schools — The Branks and Hot Iron — Legate and Netherton Bridges — St. Margaret's Well — A Witch's Prayer — The Dunfermline Declaration — Battle of Pitreavie — Town- House Bell — The League and Covenant— Auld Kirk Repairs — The Laird of Rosythe's Burial — King's Birth-Day — Oath of Allegiance — Witches and Warlocks — Manual Seal of the City — Conventicle Meeting — Ruins of the Abbey Choir — Pitreavie's Hospital— Legacy to the Poor — Drysdale's Bequeathment — Education — The Blue Blanket — Grammar School — Conventicles — Lord Drummond's Charity — Slezer's Views of Dunfermline — The Meal Act — Honorary Burgesses — The Market Cross — The Darien Company — Funeral of the Provost — Clock-keeper — St. John's Lodge — Great Dearth — Baldridge Estate — Forest of Dunfermline, &c., 257-367 A.D. I70I — l8oi.

Costumes — Poverty of the Burgh — Weaving — Dunfermline Races — East and Crosswynd Ports — Education — The Episcopalians — The Foot Mantle — Doctor of Grammar School — Churchyard— The Union Question — Old Burial Custom Abolished — Woo'er's Alley and Wool-cards — Ralph Erskine — Execution of Janet Mitchell — Graham's Mortification — Library — Brown's Mortification — Excise Bill Burnt — The Rebellion — Ancient Society of Gardeners — Dean of Guild Court — Parliament Bridle— Damask- Weaving Introduced — Serrat, or Napkin. Woven with Devices and Mottoes on it — Rev. Dr. Desagulier made a Free Burgess— Guild Brethren of Dunfermline — Gardener's Society — Daniel Defoe — Barclay's Description of the Parish of Dunfermline — Pendulum Clock — Town Guard — Weaving Frauds— Stereotyping — Drinking Customs — Death of the Authoress of "Hardyknute " — Church Repairing — Music Master and Reader — the Guildry's Colours — New Road to Kirkcaldy — Execution of James Ramsay — Weavers and the CONTENTS.

X PAGK •545 Bleachfield— Burgh Officer's Livery— Auld Kirk Clock— City of Dunfermline — The Rotten Row Port— Rotten Laft in the Kirk— Rev. Ralph Erskine and the Secession Kirk — Secession Kirk Founded — Rev. Thomas Gillespie and the Relief Congregation — Rev. George Whitefield— Death of Rev. James Wardlaw — Livingstone's Description of Dunfermline Parish — Steel Mills — The Tolbooth port_The Rebellion— Distaff Spinning— The Breach— Tower Hill — Public Whipping — Public Lamps — "Human Attire" — East and Crosswynd Ports — Death of the Rev. Ralph Erskine— The Provost Killed in a Foreign Battle— Dunfermline Gallows — Window Tax — The Dead Bell — An Accomplished Schoolmistress — Female Skeleton — St. Margaret's Cave — Boiling and Cooking Yarn — Water Scheme — Nuptial Bed of Queen Ann — Removal of the Tron — The West Port — Iron Chest, Silver Cup, Coins, &c. — Removal of Old Town- House — Relics of St. Margaret — Statistics — The Washing and Drying Brae- New Town-House — Thomas Pennant, the Tourist — Death of the Rev. Thomas Gillespie — Adam Smith (Professor) — Fracas in the Auld Kirk — The New West Road — Relief Church — The Paul Jones Panic — West Port Removed — Indus Mill — Limekilns Church — Diving Bell — Flesh Market — Earthquake— Robert Burns, the Poet — Tower Bridge — Queen Ann of Denmark's House — Anti burgher Kirk — Baines's Views — The Dead-Bell Man— The Witch Dub — Blue Gown Beggars — Ancient Society of Weavers — Friends of the People — Town- House Enlarged — Election Riots — The Fencibles — The Provost put into a Black-Hole — The Pillory and Delinquents — Drawing-School — St. Patrick's Day — Revs.

Rowland Hill, Haldane, Ewing, &c. — New Secession Church — Young Men's .Religious Society, &c, 369 A.D. l80I — 1878. Dearth — Census — Public Kitchen — Neil Gow, "the famous Neil" — Military Funeral — Bank Broken into and Robbed — Earthquakes — Independent Congregation — .

Description of King's Birthday — South Chapel Street — Weaving Patent — The Volunteers — Theatricals — Old Steeple Weathercock — Admiral Mitchell — Spinning Mill — The "Fly Coach " — Tunnel under the Forth— Forsyth's Description of Dunfermline — The Officers' Royal Livery — The Cross Buildings — Royal Tombs Explored — Fall of the South-West Tower of the Abbey — Old Coins Found — Circulating Library — Post Office — Astronomical Lectures — Tradesman's Library — Guildhall — Fire — The Jubilee — Names of the Streets — Water — Census — The Comet of 181 1 — Guildhall, and View — Elgin Railway— Annunciation Stone — Printing Presses — Rhyming History of Dunfermline — Remarkable Feat in Weaving — Union Lodge — Statistical Table — The Saxon and the Gael — Methodist Kirk — Femie's History of Dunfermline — Lancasterian School —The Waterloo Spate— Guildhall "Spire Inn arid Hotel "—Foundry— John Reid, Teacher — The Radicals — Grammar, or High School — Discovery of the Skeleton of King Robert the Bruce — Founding of the New Abbey Church Sanctuary House — Re-interment of The Bruce's Skeleton — Bruce's Grave Hoax- Plate— Domestic Spinning — Walking on the Sea and William Cant — Weaving — Hatton's Mouse Thread-Mill — Theatricals — Chamber Flute-orum — St. Crispin Procession — Plan of Dunfermline — Roman Catholic Congregation — Farmers' Society — Bible Society — The Antiquary Coach — Queen Ann Street Church Disruption — Mechanics' Institution — Ancient Timber Tenement — Secession Church Maygate — Planetarium, &c. — Drawing Academy — Scientific Club — Rev.

Robert Pollock — Orrery and Astronomical Clock— Mercer's History of Dunfermline— CONTENTS. i^c- St. Margaret's Church— Census— The Reform Bill— Cholera Morbus— William Cobbett — St. Andrew's Church — Theatricals — Ancient Tenement— Historical and Chronological Table of Dunfermline — Scientific Association — Annular Eclipse — Weaving Statistics — Spinning Mills in the Parish — Stagnation of the Weaving Trade — Baldridge Works— Penny Postage— The North Church — The Beaming Machine — Census — Congregational Church — The Dunfermline and Charleston Railway — Death of the Earl of Elgin— Savings Bank — Death of Andrew Mercer — Episcopal Church — Ecclesiastical Excitement — Death of David Paton — Gymnasium — Night Police — New Water Company — Grand Procession — Destructive Floods— Stirling and Dunfermline Railway — Find of Silver Coins — Nethertown Improvements — Malleable Iron Works — Murder — Relief Centenary Soiree — Powder Magazine — Agricultural Show— The Elgin Dinner— Ordnance Survey — Antiquarian Relics — Ordnance Plan of Dunfermline — Kossuth — Burns's Centenary — The Annunciation Stone — Patriarchal Dinner — The Town- House Steeple— Louis Blanc — Volunteers — Terra-Cotta Works — The Census — Lord High Constable — Co-operative Society — Extended Boundary — First School Board — Deaths of Mr. Joseph Paton, the Rev. Dr. M 'Michael, and Mr. David Birrell— Insignia — The Devon Water Scheme — New Town- House — The Erskine and Gillespie Monuments — The British Linen Company Bank — Co-operative Society — Mr. A. Carnegie, his Gift of the Baths, and Honorary Burgess — Glen sherup Water Scheme — Baths — Sewarage Works — Dunfermline and Edinburgh Railway — Savings Bank — St. Margaret's Bazaar and Organ — Glensherup Water 547~7o8