Narrative of a residence in various parts of New Zealand, etc

Chapter I

Arrival of the Preliminary Expedition — Appearance of the Coast — Port Nicholson selected for site of principal Settlement — Proceedings of Missionaries — Northern parts of the North Island ..... page 1

Chapter II

Early progress of the Settlement — Difficulties from insecurity of title — Conduct of the Colonial Secretary — Proposal to remove the Settlement to Chili — Deputation to Sydney — Expedition to the Northward — Hostility of Captain Hobson — His visit to Wellington, and proceedings relative to the Nelson Settlement ... ... 8

Chapter III

Climate — High winds — Influence on health — Soil — Hilly nature of the country — Recent geological formation — Effects of volcanic agency — Resemblance to Scotland — Minerals — Character of the soil — Evidences of its fertility — Capabilities for grazing — Phormium Tenax . . . .22

Chapter IV

Whale fisheries — .Necessity for their protection — Natural productions — Timber — -Varieties of woods — Pitoku oil — Kauri gum — Indigenous fruits — Plants — Birds — Fishes . . CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Progress of civilization among the Natives — Influence of the Missionaries — Results of their intercourse with the Natives — Native character — Scene on the Wanganui river — Native wars — Security of Settlers — False alarm at Wellington — Usefulness of the Natives — Their wealth — Land Reserves — Population in and around Port Nicholson . . . page 50

Chapter VI

Description of Wellington — Selection of site — Lambton Harbour — Shipping — Houses, stores, &c. — Trades — Cultivation — Roads — Valley of the Hutt — Value of town and country land — Land Associations — Villages — Population — Land iu the vicinity of Wellington, and adjacent district — Coal fields — Stone — Manewatu district . . . .68

Chapter VII

Description of Wanganui — Source of river — Character of land — Formation of town of Petre — Expence of clearing — Natives Site of the town — Account of New Plymouth — Character of country — Evidence of volcanic agency — Want of harbour — Necessity for a breakwater ... . .90

Chapter VIII

Description of Nelson — Singular geographical formation of New Zealand — Rivers Mota Aka and Waimea* — Nelson Haven — Site of town — Coal — Character of the country — Climate . 100

Chapter IX

Parts of New Zealand best adapted for Colonization— Thames— Manukao and Waitemata— Kafia— Middle Island— Chatham Islands ... 108 CONTENTS. V

Chapter X

Unpopularity of the Governor — Auckland — Missionaries — Concluding remarks .... page 112 Appendix (A) — Observations on the Chatham Islands as a field for Colonization . . . . . 117 Appendix (B) — Spirit of the latest intelligence . 133 Appendix (C)— New Zealand Tariff ... ERRATA. Page 10 line 27, insert comma after " however." — 20 — 32, for "adduce," read " conduce." — 24 — 13,/or "partly the moisture," read "partly through the moisture." — 32 — - 1, insert comma after " common." — 42 — 27, for "Jems," read "Jewess." — 43 — 5,for" Ruva-ruva," read " Rewa-rewa." — 45 — 15, for "Tawara or Astilia," read " Tawara an Astilia." — 45 — 28,/or " camellia," read " Camilla." — 48 — 22,/or " Kara," read •• Kava."_

Preface

. Returning to England after a residence for a considerable period in New Zealand, during which have occurred events of no less moment in the colony than its regular settlement by Europeans, and erection into a dependency of the English Crown ; and finding that many contradictory reports and ideas have been circulated concerning its prosperity, in which so many are interested ; I have been induced, at the request of a considerable number of persons, both here and in the colony, to write a brief account of the present state of the settlements in that country, and of their apparent prospects. From the circumstance of my having been in the service of the Company by whom the colony was founded, it may be imagined that I am interested in upholding its principles, and am now writing by its dictation. This, however, is not the case ; and although I must own, that from having witnessed the successful working ofthe Company's plans, I am

PREFACE.

. inclined to think that its system of colonization is the best, and am predisposed in its favour, I must dis claim any participation or interference of it in my writings. In publishing a work of even this unpretending nature, many attendant difficulties present them selves to a person wholly unused to writing, and who has been preceded by many others of far greater ability and experience, on a subject which has so often been considered. But believing that the infor mation contained in the following pages will interest, and be acceptable to many connected with New Zealand affairs, I am assured that a work, almost wholly descriptive, will not meet with illiberal cri ticism. C. H. NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE IN NEW ZEALAND.

Chapter I. Introductory Chapter

I had the fortune to be connected with the first ex pedition despatched by the New Zealand Company for the purpose of acquiring territory and selecting the site of their first settlement. While examining* the country for this purpose, and during a subsequent residence in New Zealand, I had many opportunities of acquiring a knowledge of the various parts of the country, and of making myself acquainted with the advantages which present themselves in those portions which have been already settled. The expedition left England in May, 1839, in the Tory, and arrived in New Zealand in the following August, fortunately in time to allow of the country being sufficiently explored before the arrival of the settlers, and to cause the judicious selection of the site ofthe Company's first enterprise. On first sighting New Zealand, we were disap- E APPEARANCE OF THE COAST. pointed with the appearance of tbe coast.

The high mountain ranges of the middle island, terminating abruptly on the south side of Cook's Strait, in several long promontories, seem to leave no space for cul tivable land; while the country generally appears sterile and unworthy of settlement. Between these promontories, however, the best harbours are situated ; and although they are surrounded with but little available land, yet, in some instances, they commu nicate with large agricultural districts in the in terior. On entering any of the harbours in Cook's Strait, it is immediately seen that the land, which at a distance had an appearance of sterility, is in reality of the richest and most fertile nature. The hills are covered luxuriantly with foliage to the water's edge, and so far from their being barren, the deep black vegetable mould, which for ages has been accumulat ing, produces the most splendid growth of forest, many of the trees in which are really of stupendous size.

The first place we visited was Queen Charlotte's Sound. This, although without exception the finest harbour in New Zealand, was not considered suitable as the locality of the first settlement, as there was not a sufficiency of level land for the wants of the colony, notwithstanding many very beautiful patches of level and fertile land are to be found in the vicinity of its numerous bays and creeks. It was necessary, before the expedition proceeded to explore the adjacent coasts, that the ship should be refitted; and during the consequent delay we had excellent opportunities of examining the surround ing districts, and of becoming in a measure ac quainted with the native character and customs. PORT NICHOLSON. 3 After having explored the various arms of Queen Charlotte's Sound, Cloudy Bay, and the Pelorus River, it was decided that the country in the vicinity of these harbours was not adapted for colonization on a large scale, because, although there was much land, with excellent water communication, and of great fertility, which might amply repay the industry of a scattered population, it would not suffice to carry out the plans of the Company.

From Queen Charlotte's Sound we proceeded to Port Nicholson, which is only a few hours' sail across the strait. On entering Port Nicholson, one is struck with the grandeur of the view. The harbour resembles an inland lake rather than an arm of the sea, and in beauty, certainly far surpasses that of our English lakes. As we worked up to the anchorage, the noble expanse of water, surrounded by a country of the most picturesque character, formed a scene of indescribable beauty ; and as the valley of the Hutt river opened to our view, apparently extending far inland until bounded by the snowy range, we won dered that a place wliich seemed so much to invite settlement, had not before been colonized. On examining the bay, we found an inner harbour, with a convenient site for a town on its shores, and on penetrating the country, we ascertained that it was generally of a far more available nature than we had at first supposed.

The extent of level country did not appear sufficient for all the wants of the colony about to be formed, but we were aware of the existence of large tracts of level country inland, to which there might be easy communication. The excellence of the haibour, and its superiority in point of centri cal position, together with the desire of the aborigines for its settlement by white people, mainly deterb2 PORT NICHOLSON. mined its selection as the site of the Company's first settlement.* Amongst the various harbours which we afterwards visited, we found none so well adapted for settlement as that which had been fixed on. Those possessing large tracts of level land in their immediate vicinity, were all either of difficult access, or insecure for shipping; and with the advantages enjoyed by Poit Nicholson, it appeared conclusively, that that place was better adapted for the seat of a large and increasing community, and also for the entrepot of the trade of the islands, than any other locality which we had seen, or were likely to find.

In the acquisition of the district from the natives, great care was taken that they should fully compre hend the terms on which they relinquished their rights, and the plan of the Company in respect of the land to be reserved for their benefit. On being told the amount of the immediate payment, their mo*t influential chiefs replied, " that they cared but little about what would be given them for their land, but that they wanted white men and women to settle amongst them, and to bring cattle, and grow corn ;" they added, " that the people from Port Jackson, and the missionaries, had repeatedly, when endeavouring to purchase land, promised to come and live with them, but had never done so." The natives of Port Nicholson have since proved that they appreciate the introduction of European * On his first arrival at Port Nicholson the immigrant might perhaps regret not seeing the extended plains which he had pictured to himself, but he soon will find that there is a sufficiency of level land in the immediate neighbourhood of the town tor its support for many years.

And he is delighted with the general appearance of fertility around him. VORT NICHOLSON. civilization ; and that, notwithstanding the efforts of the missionaries to render them dissatisfied with their altered condition, they are contented with the quan tity of land reserved for them, and now never inter fere with the location of the settlers on their respective property. Such, indeed, is their disposition to mix with the European population, that it is to be ex pected the two races will eventually be entirely amalgamated. The celerity with which the first expedition had been planned and dispatched, proved of service in defeating the projects of the missionaries and Sydney speculators. These persons, it appeared, finding that the systematic colonization of the country had been undertaken, and knowing the value which would con sequently attach to all eligible localities for settlement, determined to acquire those spots most adapted to the Company's objects, with the intention of re selling them at the highest price they might be able to obtain.

The rapaciousness of these individuals soon became apparent ; and not being in time to pre cede us, they were necessitated to purchase only such places as were not worthy the attention of the Com pany, or to acquire the right of some inferior chief to a district already purchased. It was amusing to find these disinterested persons following us every where. The Tory only left Port Nicholson, after the ac quisition of that district, to be succeeded by the missionary schooner, containing Mr. Williams and party ; who finding that they could not obtain that place, proceeded to the Wanganui River, as being the most likely place to engage the attention of the Company's agent after the settlement of Port Ni cholson. At the Wanganui they were equally unsuccessful, NORTHERN DISTRICTS. and found that their anticipated influence as mission aries was unavailing with the natives ; the white party, therefore, returned to the Bay of Islands, having failed in accomplishing its praiseworthy object.

On visiting the northern parts of the island, which we did after having acquired the various districts around Cook's Strait most suitable for colonization, it became apparent to us that the country beyond Mount Egmont, or, at the farthest, Kafia, was not at all adapted for immediate settlement, on account of the absence of good harbours. The land around Mount Egmont was the finest which we had seen in New Zealand ; but in consequence of the insecurity of the anchorage, many objections presented them selves to its immediately becoming the scene of the Company's operations. The Bay of Islands, and the Hokianga and Kaipara rivers presented no advantages for immediate settlement. An illegitimate importance had become at tached to the first of these places on account of its being the residence of the missionaries.

Being also a good harbour, a number of Sydney merchants esta blished themselves there to supply the whaling ves sels which frequented the coast with provisions, kc. A small commercial community had thus grown up around the missionary station, dependent entirely upon trading, and without a sufficiency of available land in the neighbourhood for its own support. The Sydney merchants, who had bought land there on account of the valuable " Kauri " fir that it produced, but which was in other respects nearly worthless, finding that it was not likely to be of any farther value to them, at least for agricultural purposes, had endeavoured to dispose of it in New South Wales, NORTHERN DISTRICTS. 7 and had accordingly trumpeted forth its excellences, and asserted its pre-eminent eligibility for the chief settlement in New Zealand.

The missionaries, for the same reasons, had acted in a like manner, and naturally looked with jealousy on the systematic settlement of any but their own land. It may fairly be said that all the detraction and abuse of the colonial papers, at the time of the formation of the Company's first colony, originated in the party interests of the various claimants of land in New Zealand, or in jealousy at the direction of the tide of emigration setting towards the Company's settlements. The land around the Hokianga and Kaipara rivers, although better than that near the Bay of Islands, cannot be settled by an agricultural population for many years, as those harbours are of difficult, and one of extremely dangerous, access. The nature of the land is also inferior, and in all places where the Kauri pine grows is peculiarly barren.

The open country is generally covered with a dry mould upon a sandy subsoil, and in the forest districts the stiff red clay is, on account of its sterility, unfit for cultivation. The timber, however, at present forms a valuable arti cle of export.

Chapter II. The Early Progress Of The Colony

On the return of our party from the northern parts of the island to Port Nicholson, we found that the first colony had arrived, and the settlers had commenced building, and were also cultivating ground for immediate purposes. The harbour presented now a very different scene from that which it had shown a few months previously ; twelve ships were lying at anchor in the bay, and on shore the numerous houses and tents which had been erected gave an appearance of civilization and comfort to the place, which we had not expected so soon to find. The natives, we were pleased to find, were on excellent terms with the settlers, and most of them were either engaged in their employ, or in building houses for the immigrants which were yet to arrive. The energy and industry of the settlers were con spicuous, and a cheerful spirit reigned amongst them.

They seemed to care but little for difficulties of the country around them, and little objection was made to the land on account of the expense of clearing, as they were satisfied of its extreme fertility. Had all the land-owners been then able to com mence farming, the colony would ere now have produced far more grain than would have been sufficient for its consumption ; but at this most critical FIRST PROCEEDINGS OP THE COLONISTS. 9 period in the history of the settlement, the colonists were given to understand that from the Government they would have no title to the land, and that should they commence cultivation or building on the site of the town, their property would be liable to forfei ture, and themselves to ejection. The sight of the " mounted police," — men whose business it was, in the penal colonies to apprehend escaped convicts and hunt down "bush-rangers," — patroling the beach, with fetters in their hands, for the intimida tion of the inhabitants, served but to prepare them for the still harsher usage they were to meet with from the local government.

A public meeting was convened by the settlers, to consider the state of affairs in this crisis : and the Colonial Secretary, then resident in Wellington as chief magistrate, was respectfully invited to attend a future meeting, in order that the settlers might be made acquainted with the intentions of the Government respecting their claims, as far as he was authorized to disclose the same. Mr. Shortland refused to have any interview for that purpose, saying that he had no instructions to treat with the inhabitants in any way but as a magistrate ; hinting, afterwards, at the substance of the bill then about to be passed in the New South Wales Council, which prevented any person or company holding more than 2,600 acres. Subsequently, when asked by some gentlemen his opinion respecting their security in expending capital on the place, the Colonial Secretary replied, in accordance with the whole system of conduct of the Governor, who was instructed to treat the Port Nicholson settlers with "kindness and considera tion," — " Gentlemen, I cannot satisfy you in this particular, or give you my opinion at all on the matb5 HOSTILITY OF THE LOCAL GOVERNMENT. ter, as I am daily in expectation of receiving instructions from Auckland to order you off the land, to give place for a Government township."

In the state of uncertainty caused by this system of Government, the settlers could not, of course, pro ceed with any degree of assurance; and those possessed of small capita], finding themselves unable to cultivate land, or to carry out the plans on which they had emigrated, became dispirited at the poor prospects before them ; while those who had embarked a few hundred pounds in the enterprize, and had hoped to commence farming in such a manner as would soon yield them a maintenance, seeing that there was no chance of the realization of their plans, turned their attention to trading instead of agriculture, and soon lost much of the spirit and confidence which they had manifested before the interference of Govern ment. At one time this uncertainty had reached to such a height, that it was proposed by some of the most influential persons in the place, and with much seriousness, that the colony should remove to Chili, giving up all claims to land in New Zealand, and placing itself under the protection of one of the South American republican governments, which was willing to grant it land and considerable constitutional privileges.

This project, however feasible as it was, soon fell to the ground, in consequence of the con tinued arrival of settlers from England, as well as the confidence every one had in the power and in fluence of the Company in England. Colonel Wakefield, the Company's principal agent, returned about this time from the Bay of Islands, whither he had been deputed to proceed, on the part of the settlers, with an address of congratulation, and DEPUTATION TO SYDNEY. promises of support from them to the Lieutenant- Governor. The answer which he brought was, how ever, vague and indecisive, and had not the effect of tranquillizing the public mind. A deputation was then dispatched to Sydney to learn from the Governor-General the terms on which the settlers were likely to receive titles to their land from the Crown.

Sir George Gipps displayed a statesmanlike and conciliatory spirit, to which his sub - ordinatewasa stranger; and in making known to the deputation the arrangements and plans which he would propose for them to the home Government, he assured them of the interest which he took in the welfare of the colony, and of his anxiety for its prosperity. The propositions of the Governor-General met with immediate and decided acceptance at Port Nichol son. It entailed some inconveniences on the settlers by obliging them to take their land in the immediate vicinity of the harbour, where much of it was unfit for agricultural purposes, and by reserving the Go vernment right of selecting twenty acres of town land, as also of a certain extent of ground above high-water mark, for its own purposes ; but the settlers were happy in having any terms proposed to them, and on the announcement of the success ofthe deputation, the colony again resumed an appearance of spirit and activity.

At the same time, in the period which elapsed be fore the settlers could proceed with assurance in their respective occupations, nothing but the large amount of capital which had been brought into the colony by the first settlers, and the liberal expenditure of the Company in Wellington, could have saved the colony from destruction. EXPEDITION TO MOUNT EGMONT. Shortly before the return of the deputation from Sydney, Mr. Shortland, the Colonial Secretary, was removed from Port Nicholson, and was succeeded in the magistracy by a person of gentlemanly deport ment and comprehensive understanding; and although the settlers could not be satisfied with the sole adju dication of one magistrate, who, while really interested in the welfare of the colony, was nevertheless in the pay of the local government and had been sent from Auckland, they yet rejoiced in their deliverance from the annoyance and overbearing authoritativeness of the one who had left them.

Previous to the departure of the deputation for Sydney, an expedition was despatched from Port Nicholson to explore the country northward of the Tararua range, lying about the Manewatu and Wan ganui rivers, and as far as Mount Egmont. Having formed one of the party, and more especially as the country over which the expedition passed is one of the finest portions of New Zealand, and is entirely dependent on the harbours of Port Nicholson and Wanganui as outlets for its future produce, I shall here give some description of the various districts which we passed, and which either are now, or shortly will be, in the various stages of colonization. The principal object of the expedition was to ascertain whether the more remote districts lying along the northern shore ofthe strait were ofa nature to cause their general applicability for settlement ; as well as obtain a more accurate knowledge of the coast line, and the various rivers, than had before been known.

On leaving the neighbourhood of the harbour, we found that the difficulties of communication with the northern shore and the interior had been far exagger- EXPEDITION TO MOUNT EGMONT. ated. The hills, which had been pointed out as forming a barrier to any outlet from the district of Port Nicholson, were of easy access, and of exceedingly rich and fertile soil, covered with valuable tim ber, and for the most part available for agriculture. As a description of the Porirua harbour and district is given in another part of this pamphlet, I shall here only notice, that had the depth of water been greater at the entrance of the harbour, the Porirua country might, probably, have been chosen for the site of the first enterprise of the Company, in prefer ence to Port Nicholson, in the district of which it is now included.

For about thirty miles from Porirua, the strip of available land along the coast is narrow, the high snowy mountains of the Tararua range rising only a few miles from the sea ; but a short distance beyond the island of Kapiti the level land increases in width, and the mountain ranges receding, open the Man ewatu plains, which are the commencement of large flat inland districts in the centre ofthe North island. The whole country, from the Manewatu river along the coast of the strait to the Sugar Loaf Islands, is of a level nature, much less wooded than the rest of the island, and watered by numerous rivers, of which three are navigable at their entrance for small vessels. The country generally is well adapted for settlement, but it must be accomplished by the growth of the population of the places already colonized.

The Wanganui and Manewatu rivers, which will be hereafter described, are both now in progress of settlement from Wellington, and possess many facilities for becoming important agricultural and pastoral stations. Between the above-mentioned rivers, the Ranga- EXPEDITION TO MOUNT EGMONT. tiki and Wangaihu fall into the sea. These rivers have their origin in the plains to the south of the Tongariro volcano, and flow through a fine level country eminently adapted for grazing. Beyond the Wanganui, and between it and Mount Egmont, lies the Patea district, which is equal to that of Wanganui in extent and fertility, but without the advantage of an equally navigable river. Small coasting vessels have, however, entered the Patea for native produce, which may be obtained in abundance. The country around this, and the Wenua Kuri river, which two closely approximate, is exceedingly fine, and capable of depasturing large herds and flocks ; being, for the most part, covered with grass and herbage.

About thirty miles from the coast of Wanganui there rises a range of hills separating the Patea from the Taupo country, which lies in the vicinity of the lake of the same name and Lake Roturua. Although this range of hills intervenes between the districts, there is yet an easy communication between them by the valley of the river, which winds amongst the mountains, and has its source in the Taupo plains. The last-mentioned country is so level and devoid of bush, that, according to the statements of the natives, it is possible to ride with ease from the sources of the Cook's Strait rivers, all the way across to the Bay of Plenty. Ofthe Taranake country, which we next visited, but little need here be said, as it is by all parties allowed to be the most fertile in New Zealand. The level land extends around the base of Mount Egmont, as far as the eye can observe, and is composed of an exceedingly rich volcanic mould over granite and conglomerate.

In the centre of this plain, or slightly RETURN OF THE EXPEDITION. undulating surface, the mountain, rising with beautiful regularity of form to a height of nearly 8,000 feet, is an object of extreme grandeur and sublimity. The Taranake district is not so densely wooded as that near Port Nicholson. Towards the coast are extensive tracts of open country, covered with coarse grass and fern. Around the immediate base of the mountain, the country is covered with forest; large portions of grazing land being, however, occasionally interspersed. All the land is well adapted for the production of wheat, and maybe cultivated at a com paratively trifling expense. The report given of the nature of the country (on the return of the expedition to Wellington, after an absence of two months,) and of the quantity of avail able land in the interior, which would eventually be dependent on Wellington as a commercial port, and as the only outlet for its produce, gave much satisfaction to the colonists ; as it assured them of the facilities of communication between their settlement and the whole of the North Island, and at the same time convinced them all of the suitability of the locality selected for the site of the future capital of New Zealand.

I must now advert to the treatment received by the colonists from Governor Hobson. Although he had been in the country since the arrival of the colony, with constant means of communication at his disposal, he had not yet visited the settlement where were established three-fourths of the white population of the islands. On his arrival in the country, he might have been expected to view the proceedings of the Port Nicholson settlers with some degree of caution and jealousy, from his known par tiality to the missionary interest, which was always PROCEEDINGS OF GOVERNOR HOBSON. opposed to the Company's plan of colonizing the country in a systematic manner: yet, on the joyous reception ofthe declaration ofthe right of the English Crown, by the settlers in Port Nicholson, and their expression of support and gratulation to its represen tative, all mistrustful feeling and jealousy should have ceased : and Captain Hobson would then have been respected and beloved as the Governor of New Zealand, rather than known as the founder of an obscure and distant settlement, and the head of a party of officials dependent on the colonists for their maintenance.