Central Route to the Pacific, from the valley of the Mississippi to California, journal of the expedition of E. F. Baale ... and G. H. H. ... in 1853. By G. H. H

Front matter

CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. ■fid PS.IhlYal*Co.^Hk.Hnl, esmitoiki© ©gm® hboves, CJUa-apdal. CENTRAL ROUTE TO TIIE PACIFIC, FROM THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI TO CALIFORNIA JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITION • IF E. F. BEALE, SUPERINTENDENT OF INDIAN AFFAIRS IN CALIFORNIA, AND GWINN HARRIS HEAP, FROM MISSOURI TO CALIFORNIA, IN 1853. BV GWINN HARRIS HEAP. PHILADELPHIA: LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO, AND CO. 1854. Entered according to the Act os Congress, in the year 1853, by LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO, AND CO., in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court of the United States in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. PHILADELPHIA: T. K. AND P. G. COLLINS, PRINTERS. CONTENTS.

Appendix

. Letters from Mr. Chas. W. McClanahan, and Mr. R. S. Wootton 123, 125 Camels, as a Substitute for Horses, Mules, etc LIST OF PLATES. PAGE Plate I. Rafting across Grand River. Opposite title-pnge. Plate II. Spanish Peaks 27 Plate III. Huerfano Canon . . 28 Plate IV. Huerfano Butte 29 Plate V. First Camp in the Mountains 30 Plate VI. Entrance of Sahwatch Valley 37 Plate VII. Scenery in Sahwatch Valley 37 Plate VIII. Coochatope Gate 37 Plate IX. Coochatope Pass 39 Plate X. Rio de la Laguna 41 Plate XI. Crossing Laquna Creek 42 Plate XII. Grand River 46 Plate XIII. Green River INTRODUCTORY. On the third clay of March, 1853, Congress passed a law ap propriating $250,000 for the purpose of carrying into effect a plan which E. F. Beale, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the State of California, had proposed for the better protection, subsistence, and colonization of the Indian tribes within his superintendency.

The President having given his approval to this plan, Mr. Beale was instructed to proceed forthwith, by the shortest route, to his superintendency, and to select lands most suitable for Indian reservations. He was also directed, in connection with this plan, to examine the Territories of New Mexico and Utah, where their frontiers and those of California lie contiguous, and to ascertain whether lands existed there to which the California Indians might, with advantage, be removed. Mr. Beale having, in a few days, collected a small party, and my duties calling me at this time to California, I gladly availed myself of his invitation to join the expedition, which promised to be replete with interest, not only because he proposed tra versing a large tract of unexplored country, but also from its being one of the routes in contemplation for a railway from the Valley of the Mississippi to our Pacific possessions.

In the journal now offered to the public, I have endeavored to give a correct representation of the country which we traversed ; and, although I do not pretend to do justice to the subject, I trust that these notes will not be altogether without value, par ticularly at a time when the public mind is engrossed with a subject of such stupendous magnitude as the establishment of a trans-continental railway. It was a source of frequent regret to us, that circumstances which it is not necessary to explain here, had put it out of our power to provide instruments for a more scientific survey of this route ; and I have, therefore, avoided to state anything, even in the form of a surmise, the correctness of which could only be ascertained by instrumental survey. It is often difficult to determine heights and grades with perfect accuracy, even with the assistance of instruments ; random assertions, made upon mere supposition, would, there fore, be entirely without value.

The information I claim to give is such only as I believe will be found reliable and useful, particularly to emigrants ; to them, any new light thrown upon the geography of the interior of our continent, cannot fail to be interesting, and they will find this journal a faithful delineation of the country through which our route led us. In regard to the map accompanying this book, I wish to state that the portion which differs from any hitherto published, is the section embraced between the mouth of Huerfano River, in west long. 103° 20', and Little Salt Lake, in west long. 113°. No survey has been published of this region, and all information regarding it has heretofore been derived exclusively from the reports of trappers and Indian traders. Without claiming for it any extraordinary degree of accuracy, it will be found, I hope, much more correct and reliable than any map hitherto published.

Almost hourly notes, with the constant use of the compass, and a correct estimate of distances, were, in the ab sence of instruments, my means of delineating the topography of the country which we traversed. The other portions of the map are copied from the best and latest surveys. The route selected by Mr. Beale was, in conformity with his instructions, the shortest and most direct to California ; and it also enabled him to examine, with the least delay, the localities to which it was believed that the Indians of California mioht be removed with advantage to themselves, should suitable lands for the purpose be found. The following is a synopsis pf the route he designed taking : The starting-point was Westport, in Missouri ; from thence, leaving the River Kanzas on our right, we were to proceed to Fort Atkinson on the Arkansas, crossing the head-waters of INTRODUCTORY. the Osage and Neosho.

From Fort Atkinson, our course was up the left bank of the Arkansas, as far as the River Huerfano, which joins the Arkansas about forty-five miles above Bent's Fort ; thence up the Huerfano to the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, and through them to Fort Massachusetts on Utah Creek, in the north of New Mexico. After leaving Fort Massachusetts, we were to proceed up the valley of San Luis, lying between the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the Sierra Mojada on the east, the Sierras Blanca and Sahwatch on the north, and the Sierra de San Juan on the west. Up this valley to the Sahwatch Valley, through the Coochatope Pass in the Sahwatch Mountains, and down the River Uncom pagre to the Grand River Fork of the Great Colorado, in Utah Territory. Thence across the River Avonkaria and the Green River Fork of the Colorado, through the Wahsatch Mountains to the Mormon settlements near Little Salt Lake and the Ve gas de Santa Clara.

From this point we would travel on the old Spanish trail leading from Abiquiii, across the desert, to the River Mohaveh, where we intended to leave it, and enter into the Tulare Valley in California, through Walker's Pass, in the Sierra Nevada. We left Washington on the 20th of April, and arrived at St. Louis the 2d, Kanzas the 5th, and Westport the 6th of May. Westport is a thriving place, situated four miles from Kan zas ; and emigrants from Missouri to California and Oregon make either this place or Independence their starting-point. At both towns all necessary supplies can be obtained at reason able rates, and their merchants and mechanics being constantly required to supply the wants of travellers on the plains, keep on hand such articles as are best adapted for an overland journey. Kanzas, a newer place, is also thriving, and a fine river landing.

At Westport, I had the pleasure of meeting with a very courteous gentleman, Count Cypriani, ex-governor of Leghorn. He was preparing for an expedition to California, via Fort Laramie, the South Pass, Great Salt Lake, and Car son's Valley. His party consisted of eleven persons of education and science, and an escort of mountain men ; and his outfit was in every respect well appointed and complete. If the ob servations of this accomplished gentleman should be given to the public, they will be a valuable addition to the scanty know ledge we possess of the interior of our country. He has had much experience as a traveller, having already visited the greater portion of both the continents of the western hemi sphere, as well as those of Europe, Asia, and Africa. ■1

Chapter I. Journey From Westport To The River Huerfano

Our party was composed of twelve persons, viz : — E. F. Beale, Superintendent of Indian Affairs in California. G. Harris Heap. Elisha Riggs, of Washington. William Riggs, " William Rogers, " Henry Young. J. Wagner. J. Cosgrove. Richard Brown (a Delaware Indian). Gregorio Madrid (a Mexican). Jesus Garcia, George Simms (colored man). May 10, 1853. The train started from Westport in the afternoon, with directions to proceed to Council Grove, and await our arrival there. Mr. Beale accompanied it a few miles into the prairie, and returned after dark. « ■* With a view to making a rapid trip, we had dispensed with everything that was not absolutely necessary for our wants; and our outfit, therefore, was of the simplest description. May 15. All our arrangements being completed, we started from Westport at 3 P. M. A party of ladies and gentlemen accompanied us a few miles into the prairie, and drank a " stirrup cup" of champagne to the success of our journey.

The weather was bright and clear, and, after a pleasant ride of twelve miles over prairies enamelled with flowers, we encamped at thirty minutes after six P. M. on Indian Creek, a tributary of the Kanzas, fringed with a thick growth of cottonwoods and willows. Day's march, 12 miles. May 16. Moved camp at 5 A. M. The morning was cloudy. George Simms, who superintended the culinary department, procured milk from a neighboring Caw Indian's hut, which, with dried buffalo tongue, enabled us to make a hearty break fast. An excellent and well-beaten road, as broad and smooth as a turnpike, led us through a green rolling prairie. Although we saw many prairie hens and plovers, we were too impatient to overtake our train to waste time in shooting them. Arrived at 9 hours 30 min. A. M. at Bull Creek, twenty -three miles, where we found two log-huts, good water and grass, and some cottonwood and willow trees.

After a short rest, we continued on to Garfish Camp, twenty two miles, over a rolling prairie, covered with rich herbage — but noticed little timber. Passed many water-holes. The weather was cool, with a pleasant southerly wind. Around our encampment the grass was knee-high, but no wood was found nearer than half a mile; a few dry bushes, eked out with " buffalo chips," sufficed to prepare our supper. The Santa Fe mail stage was stopping here when we arrived, and proceeded on its way to Independence shortly after. Day's march, 45 miles ; total distance from Westport, 57 miles. May 17. The morning was ushered in with the wind from the southward, ladened with heavy clouds, and accompanied by occasional showers of rain. Mr. Beale went in search of a mule, which had drawn her picket-pins in the night, and taken the "back track" towards Westport; but, after a ride of seven miles he was compelled to relinquish the pursuit.

Numerous prairie wolves surrounded* the camp all night. Arrived at " One Hundred and Ten" at 45 minutes after 10 A. M. The wind veered to southeast, still accompanied by rain, and the weather was cold and unpleasant. " One Hundred and Ten" is so named from its being at that distance from Fort Leaven worth. This hamlet is composed of a few log-houses situated in a hollow, near a small stream shaded by cottonwoods. The inhabitants are Shawnees, but at this time nearly all the men were absent; the women appeared neat and respectable. Prairie hens and plovers were numerous ; but we were still too near the settlements for nobler game. Continued our route at 1 P. M.; the road still led over a beautiful rolling country, the grass good, and occasional pools of water. At 4 P. M. encamped at Dragoon Creek, after a ride of twelve miles.

It is a small brook, well shaded by cottonwoods and oaks, and grass grows luxuriantly on its banks. A few Caw Indians at this place came into our camp hoping to exchange horses with us, and were quite disappointed at our refusal to trade. They were fine-looking men, well proportioned, and athletic. The chief, whose portrait I offered to sketch, seemed delighted with the idea, and hastened to his camp for his rifle, which he was more anxious to have correctly represented than himself. He presented us a paper with a very complacent air, evidently think ing that it contained strong recommendations of his tribe, and himself in particular. It was written by some mischievous emigrant, who advised all travellers to beware of this great chief, who was none other than a great rascal, and great beggar.

We did not undeceive him as to its contents, and he left us, seeming perfectly satisfied with the impression he had created. Day's travel, 35 miles; distance from Westport, 92 miles. May 18. We had a severe thunder and rain storm, which lasted all night ; the wind blew strong from the southward, and the lightning was incessant and vivid. One of those balls of fire which sometimes descend to the earth during violent thunderstorms, fell and exploded in our midst. The mules, already terrified by the constant peals of thunder, became frantic with fear; and when this vivid light was seen, accompanied with a report like the crack of a rifle, neither picket-pins nor hobbles could hold them; they rushed through the camp overturning everything in their course — their ropes and halters lashing right and left, and increasing their panic.

They were stopped by an elbow of the creek, where they were found a few minutes after, huddled together, and quivering with fear. It was fortunate for us that they did not take to the open prairie, as we would have had much difficulty in recovering them. This was our first experience in a stampede, and to prevent a recurrence of such accidents we after this placed the animals in the centre, and, dividing our party into twos and threes, slept in a circle around them. By using such precautions we were never sub jected to this annoyance again, except once, after entering the country of the Utahs. At dawn, the wind veered to the westward, and blew very cold. Before sunrise, we resumed our journey, and in twelve miles crossed a fine clear stream, and in fourteen miles reached another. A ride of twenty-five miles brought us to a hollow, where, finding good water, we encamped.

Resting but a short time we continued our journey, and in ten miles, over a rich rolling country, arrived at Council Grove, where our train was waiting for us. Council Grove is situated in a rich grassy bottom, well water ed, and heavily timbered. It is a settlement of about twenty frame and log houses, and scattered up and down the stream are several Indian villages. At a short distance from the road is a large and substantially built Methodist mission-house, constructed of limestone, which is found here in inexhaustible quantities. This stone is excellent as a building material, and lies in strata of from six inches to three feet in thickness : lintels and arches are made of it as it is extracted from the quarries, which extend for fifteen miles up the stream. Day's march, 32 miles ; total distance, 122 miles.

May 19. We now considered ourselves fairly embarked on our journey, for until leaving Council Grove we felt as if we were still within the boundaries of civilization. Even the huts which we passed occasionally on the road, though inhabited only by Indians, removed that _sense of utter loneliness which impresses the traveller upon the boundless prairie. Mr. Beale had selected only such men as were inured by long habit to the privations and hardships which we expected to encounter. One, the Delaware, was an experienced hunter, and to his un erring rifle we owed, during the journey, many abundant re pasts, when otherwise we would have been upon short allowance. While at Council Grove, we had some mules shod, and the provisions that had been consumed on the journey from West port, were replaced.

The animals having been well packed, and our arms and ammunition inspected, we bid adieu to Coun cil Grove in the morning, and after a pleasant ride of seventeen miles encamped near water in a hollow on the roadside. The weather was fine, a cool breeze refreshing the air. Some prairie hens, ducks, and plovers were shot. In the afternoon, after travelling fifteen miles, we encamped near the " Lost Spring." The grass along the road was good, and we passed several pools which probably dry up in midsummer. Since our departure from Westport we had seen many graves on each side of the road, and some of the camping-places had the appearance of village graveyards. The cholera raged on the plains a few years ago, occasioning a fearful mortality, and these mounds remain to attest its ravages. Through care lessness or haste, they were often too shallow to protect their contents from the wolves, and it frequently happened that he who in the morning was hastening forward in health and spirits towards the golden bourn, was ere night a mangled corpse, his bones scattered, by the savage hunger of the wolf, over the plain.

It was now deemed prudent to keep guard, as we were approaching Indian hunting-grounds, and were liable at any moment to meet a predatory band. Eight of the party kept watch, each man being relieved every hour. Day's march, 32 miles ; distance from Westport, 154 miles. May 20. The night was cold and frosty. Started soon after sunrise, and, after travelling sixteen miles, encamped on Cotton wood Creek ; a pretty brook, lined with cottonwood and oak trees, and alive with small fish, some of which were caught with a hook and line. Resumed our march at noon, and travelled over a flat unin teresting country with little water. This day saw antelope for the first time. Met Major Rucker, and Lieutenants Heath and Robinson on their way from New Mexico to Fort Leavenworth. They informed us that at a short distance in advance of us were large bands of buffalo.

Encamped, as the sun was setting, on a brook called Turkey Creek, where we found an abundant sup ply of water, but no wood. We here overtook Mr. Antoine Leroux, on his way to Taos, and considered ourselves fortunate in securing the services of so experienced a guide. He did not join us at once, as he was desirous of seeing his train safely over one or two bad places in advance of us, but promised to over take us in a day or two. Day's march, 35 miles ; distance from Westport, 189 miles. May 21. Raised camp at sunrise, and after a ride of thirty miles stopped to noon on the Little Arkansas. This stream is difficult to cross during a continuance of heavy rains, but ha.s little water in it at this season. Passed good water and grass in twelve miles from last camp. We were all on the lookout for buffaloes.

It was five daj's since we had left Westport, and as yet our eyes had not been gladdened by the sight of even one. Hoping to fall in with them more readily by diverging from the beaten track, I left the party soon after sunrise, and turning to the left, went a few miles in the direction of the Arkansas. After a ride of two hours, I observed afar off many dark objects which resembled trees skirting the horizon, but, after a closer scrutiny, their change of position convinced me that they were buffaloes. I slowly approached them, and, in order to obtain a nearer view with out giving them the alarm, dismounted, and, urging my horse forwards, concealed myself behind him. I thus got within a hundred yards of the herd. Bands of antelope and prairie wolves were intermingled with the buffaloes, who had come down to a rivulet to drink.

Of the' latter some were fighting, others wallowing, drinking, or browsing. I was just congratu lating myself upon my ruse in getting so near to them, this being my first sight of these noble animals, when my horse, suddenly raising his head, uttered such a sonorous neigh as put the whole troop to flight. Away they galloped, one band after another taking the alarm, until the whole herd, numbering several thousand, was in motion, and finally disappeared in clouds of dust. Despairing of getting such another opportunity for a shot, I reluctantly turned my horse's head in the direction where I supposed the rest of the party to be. A few hours' ride brought me back to them. They too had fallen in with buffaloes, and, in their eagerness to secure the first prize, each man had taken two or three shots at a straggling old bull, an exile from the herd; he fell, pierced with twenty-three balls.

He was, however, too old and tough to be eaten, and was left for his friends the cayotes. Buffaloes now became such an ordinary occurrence that the novelty soon wore off, and we had more humps, tongues, and marrow-bones than the greatest gourmand could have desired. In the afternoon travelled ten miles to Owl Creek, one of the head-waters of the Neosho, where we found good grass and timber, but no water. Passed many pools, much muddied by buffaloes. Mr. Leroux joined us here, but remained behind again to see his train across this creek. Early in the evening, another rain and thunderstorm broke over us, and lasted all night; the grass, and everything metallic, threw off sparks of electricity ; the rain descended in torrents, and it was with difficulty that a fire could be kindled. A more unpromising prospect could scarcely be imagined.

Some en deavored to secure the packs and provisions, whilst others, stoically resigning themselves to their fate, wrapped their dripping blankets around them, and slept in spite of the storm. Day's march, 40 miles ; distance from Westport, 229 miles. May 22. Moved camp without breakfast, for, notwithstanding the rain, no water for making coffee had been caught. The day broke clear and bright, and large bands of buffaloes being in our vicinity, Mr. Beale and myself went out for a hunt. On ascending the ridge which inclosed the bottom in which we were encamped, long lines of these animals could be seen quite near, walking with solemn tread, and occasionally stopping to browse or to roll; but, as we approached them to windward, they soon took the alarm, and, wheeling round, galloped off to rejoin the scattered herds in the plain.

We rode some distance down the deep bed of Owl Creek, and having got to leeward of a large herd, endeavored to approach them in the Indian man ner, by creeping on our hands and knees. By approaching them to leeward, and remaining perfectly motionless whenever they raise their heads to sniff the air, or evince any alarm, hunters have succeeded in getting sufficiently near to strike them with their ramrods. We, however, could only get within rifle-shot, and Mr. Beale wounding one, though not mortally, he made his escape with the rest of the band. Indians, in chasing the buffalo, use only the most practised horses ; guiding them with their knees, their long lances ready for use, they rush at full speed in the midst of a herd, and piercing the ani mal under the shoulder, so as to penetrate the heart, they leave him to fall, and continue the chase, often killing ten or twelve in the course of a single run.

We had already overtaken and passed several large wagon and cattle trains from Texas and Arkansas, mostly bound to California. With them were many women and children ; and it was pleasant to stroll into their camps in the evening and witness the perfect air of comfort and being-at-home that they presented. Their wagons drawn up in a circle, gave them at least an appearance of security; and within the inclosure the men either reclined around the camp-fires, or were busy in re pairing their harness or cleaning their arms. The females milked the cows and prepared the supper; and we often enjoyed the hot cakes and fresh milk which they invited us to partake of. Tender infants in their cradles were seen under the shelter of the wagons, thus early inured to hard travel. Carpets and rocking-chairs were drawn out, and, what would perhaps shock some of our fine ladies, fresh-looking girls, whose rosy lips were certainly never intended to be defiled by the vile weed, sat around the fire, smoking the old-fashioned corn-cob pipe.

Although Mr. Beale and myself overtook camp at a late hour, we travelled a few miles farther, and encamped for the night on Walnut Creek, an insignificant brook at this season, but which is difficult to cross after rains. This is the point at which emigrants to Oregon and California, from Texas and Arkansas, generally strike this road. They prefer the route which leads them through the South Pass — to the one on the Gila, or Cooke's route, where little or no timber or water are found for long distances. Mr. Leroux again rejoined us here with the intention of remaining with us. In the evening, the Delaware brought in the humps, tongues, and marrow-bones of two fat buffalo cows. Day's march, 42 miles; distance from Westport, 271 miles. May 23. We were again on the road at sunrise, and travel led thirty-one miles to the Pawnee Fork of the Arkansas.

The sun was excessively hot, but towards noon its heat was tempered by a pleasant breeze from the northwest; crossed many gullies, which carry water only after heavy rains. We passed, on the right of the road, a remarkable butte, or spur of the hills, projecting into the plain, and presenting a broad surface of smooth rock, thickly inscribed with names. This landmark is known as " The Pawnee Rock." In twenty miles from last camp, we came to a well-wooded ravine, after which the country became more undulating. Paw nee Fork was swollen and turbid from the late rains, but we got good water from a spring near the camp. The Delaware brought in a fine antelope and a hare, and during our noon camp shot an old buffalo cow, much bitten by wolves. Encamped in the evening near a pond on the roadside, where we found good pasturage, but no wood ; bois de vache served us for fuel.

Just before dark an enormous wolf boldly trotted into camp, but a ball from the Delaware's rifle sent hint scouring over the plains, minus a leg. Several bands sur rounded camp all night, keeping up a dismal howling. Day's march, 40 miles; distance from Westport, 311 miles. May 24. Travelled steadily from 5-J A. M. until noon, when we encamped near a water-hole on the roadside. The country was flat and uninteresting. Passed through many prairie-dog villages, whose active little inhabitants sat in their holes, with only their heads appearing above the surface, barking at us with the appearance of great wrath at our intrusion. Saw several bands of antelopes and wolves ; but all the buffaloes had disappeared. Resumed our journey at 5 P. M., and traversed level plains, devoid of interest, until 9 P. M., when we reached the Arkansas.

It was quite dark when we encamped, and we spread our blankets without supper. The rain commenced falling at midnight, and continued until morning, accompanied by a high wind. We were, of course, far from comfortable, having no shelter whatever from the storm ; but to Mr. Leroux, who was taken suddenly ill, this inclement weather was par ticularly distressing. He was attacked with pleurisy, and his sufferings were so great that he felt convinced that this place would be his grave. Day's march, 45 miles ; total distance from Westport, 356 miles. May 25. We were glad to saddle up at sunrise, and in five miles reached Fort Atkinson, where Major Johnson, the officer in command, gave us a cordial reception. Several large bands of Indians, of the Cheyenne and Arapahoe tribes were con gregated around the fort, awaiting the arrival of Major Fitz patrick, Indian Agent, whom they daily expected.

As it continued to rain without intermission all day, we concluded to pass the night in the fort, where Major Johnson had pro vided comfortable accommodations for us. Orders had just been received to remove this post to Pawnee Fork of the Ar kansas, one hundred miles nearer the settlements. It will there be of very little service, for it is already too near to the frontiers. The timber at Pawnee Fork being mostly cottonwoods, it is not suitable for building purposes ; though at Fort Atkinson there is none whatever nearer than fifteen miles ; and it was with some difficulty that we obtained a few small logs for our men, who were encamped at a short distance, under tents, borrowed from the fort. All the houses are in a dilapidated condition; a few are built of adobes (sun-dried bricks), but the greater part are constructed of sods.

Emigrants frequently stop here to settle their difficulties with Indians, and with each other, Major Johnson administering justice in a prompt and impartial manner. A few days before our arrival, a quarrel having occurred between a party of emigrants and some Cheyenne Indians, which ended in blows, Major Johnson, upon investigation, finding that an American was the aggres sor, immediately ordered him back to the States. Mr. Leroux being still too ill to continue the journey, remained here under the care of the surgeon of the post ; and Mr. W. Riggs, desiring to return to the States, took leave of us at this point. Day's travel, 5 miles ; whole distance, 361 miles. May 26. Although it still continued to rain, we left Fort Atkinson at noon, and travelled up the left bank of the Ar kansas. The trail from Independence to Santa Fe crosses the Arkansas ten miles above Fort Atkinson ; and there is another crossing five miles higher up.