Five years' experience in Australia Felix, comprising a short account of its early settlement and its present position, with many particulars interesting to intending emigrants. ... With illustrations by H. Hainsselin

Front matter

On Stone by H . Hainsselin inted by C.rvjscLou.Exete: FIVE YEARS' EXPERIENCE IK AUSTRALIA FELIX, COMPRISING A SHORT ACCOUNT OF ITS EARLY SETTLEMENT AND ITS PRESENT POSITION, WITH MANY PARTICULARS INTERESTING TO INTENDING EMIGRANTS. BY G. H. HA YD ON. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY HENEY HAINSSELIN, FROM SKETCHES MADE ON THE SPOT BY THE AUTHOR. LONDON: HAMILTON, ADAMS, & Co., PATERNOSTER ROW. EXETER: BY WILLIAM BALLE, 247, HIGH STREET. 1846. ERRATA. Page 4, line 19, for are, read is. Page 8, line 1, for manufacturing and roofing with tiles, read manufacturing tiles fur roofing ; line 21, for Their, read There. Page 17, line 4, for when no, read where no. Page 24, line 1, for Ophthelmia, read Ophthalmia. Page 31, line 30, after the word required, a comma. Page 48, line 4, for ego. read eggs. Page 89, line 23, for Nepeau, read Nepean.

Page 103, line 24, for song's, read sow*7$. Page 108, line 27, for is, read are. Page 115, line 12, for to, read «o ; line 17, for were, read where. Page 116, line 19, leave out the word adopted. Page 119, line 2, for bitting, read biting. Page 122, line 26, for a/iter a /ew months keeping is a good substance for bread, read and after a few months' use is a good substitute for bread. Page 126, line 30, for horses refuses, read horses refused. Page 150, line 24, for ever, read never.

Introduction

. My object in writing the following pages, is to give the most recent and authentic information concerning the Province of Australia Felix. Having been a resident for some years in this fine portion of the British dominions, I have had opportunities of witnessing the great changes which have taken place in its affairs ; during that period I have seen it sink for a season into a state of nearly universal bankruptcy* — not from any dearth of natural resources — not from its inaptitude for colonization — but rather from that headstrong spirit of speculation, which in all newly-formed communities is generally found to prevail. This was doubtless the main cause of the late unfortunate crisis ; that it was not the only source of its depression the reader will perceive by perusing the following pages.

It ought also to be remembered, that at the time affairs in Australia Felix assumed such a desponding aspect ; all the Australian colonies were suffering in a nearly similar manner. I will merely allude to the state of the pet colony of South Australia, simply because this part of New Holland was settled about the same period as Australia Felix, the charter to the South Australian Company being granted in 1835. This colony, of which Adelaide is the capital, after receiving every aid that the powerful and universal agency A of the British press could afford, supported by a wealthy landed proprietary in England, and cherished by legislative enactments, was declared to have been at the period to which I refer, in as bad, if not a worse state, than neglected Australia Felix. But those days of adversity are passed ; both these colonies are in a much healthier state, and it is to be hoped the severe lesson of experience the colonists have learned may act beneficially on them in future.

Numerous works have appeared on the subject of emigration to the Australian colonies, some evidently puffs, emanating from interested parties ; others abounding in the most wild and dreamy imaginations, having to all appearance been written by persons, who evidently were never out of their own country. Writers of this description have been of the greatest injury to these colonies ; deceiving the poor, but respectable emigrant, with the idea that he is proceeding to a land " flowing with milk and honey," but he finds on his arrival that an industrious and steady course of life are equally as necessary as in the mother country to gain a mere livelihood. The idea which he had been led to entertain of making a rapid fortune fades away before the realities of a colonial life. He becomes a disappointed man, and dwindles down into a lazy shepherd, spending all his wages in ardent spirits.

This is the fate of many who on their arrival, had they not been puffed up with such foolish hopes, might have done well. I have in this volume, touched on few subjects which did not come immediately under my own observation, and therefore trust that the facts which I have adduced will be useful to those contemplating emigration, and amusing to others who are interested in our colonies, but who have no inclination to leave the solid comforts of an English home.

Chapter I

The province of Australia Felix, also known as Port Philip, is situated on the south-east coast of New South Wales, between the 141st and 146th degree of east longitude. It is bounded on the south by Bass's Straits, on the west by South Australia, the River Murray in the 36th degree of south latitude forms its northern limit, and the swampy river in the 141st degree of east longitude bounds it to the eastward. It occupies a space of thirty thousand square miles, or twenty millions of acres. The greatest extent from east to west, is two hundred and sixty miles ; from north to south, one hundred and sixty miles. It commands a navigable sea coast of five hundred miles, and abounds with harbours and roadsteads. For many years before Port Philip was settled, sealers and barkers from Van Diemen's Land had visited its shores and also the neighbouring harbour of Westernport.

These wanderers returning with a favorable account of the country, induced a few enterprising colonists from that Island to make efforts for the formation of a settlement somewhere on the coast ; their own lands being overstocked, did not afford sufficient nourishment for their fast-increasing flocks and herds. Its permanent occupation was effected by these a2 men, notwithstanding several efforts made by government to form settlements in this quarter had been unsuccessful. On the 12th of May, 1835, Mr. John Batman was dispatched to Port Philip as agent for an association, and succeeded in bartering with the natives for 600,000 acres of land in the neighbourhood of this port. The land was soon stocked with cattle and sheep, and the province was thus for the first time brought into general notice.

Emigrants flocked here from all the neighbouring colonies, and the number of inhabitants increased so fast as to induce the governor of New South Wales, Sir Richard Bourke, to write to the Colonial Office begging them to recognise its rich pastoral lands as a province dependent on New South Wales. This measure was taken, and Australia Felix has since remained in this unenviable position with the convict colony. Sir Richard Bourke in a visit he paid the infant settle ment, took active measures for the formation of a town near the splendid port. The result of his endeavours were very satisfactory. The site of the present town of Melbourne was fixed on and properly surveyed, and houses and huts soon covered the face of this part ofthe country. In 1837 the town had been formed about fifteen months, and there were then one hundred houses.

The increase since that period has been amazing. It is beautifully situated on hills close to the Yarra Yarra, a river which empties itself into Hobson's Bay, in the harbour of Port Philip, eight miles below the town. Vessels of one hundred and fifty to two hundred tons come up to the wharf at Melbourne. The town at present has much the appearance of a modern English one ; the principal part of the houses and other buildings are constructed of brick, although there are several handsome stone edifices not by any means inferior to those we meet with in our lesser English towns. There are churches and chapels for the religious exercise of almost all denominations of Christians. A very handsome Roman catholic chapel was in the course of erection when the writer left in January, 1845. This, when finished, will be by far the most beautiful building in Melbourne.

It reflects little credit on the Episcopalian inhabitants to say that their church has been in an unfinished state for nearly five years, although divine service is regularly performed there. A great number of its luke-wamr members visit the Wesleyan congregation, who form a very respectable portion of the population, and who have erected a com modious and neat place of worship. The Independents have a very neat brick building for the performance of their service. The Scotch Kirk is a handsome brick building, forming one of the most attractive features in Melbourne when viewed from the bay of Port Philip. The new Union Bank of Australia is a fine stone building, as is also the new Court House and Jail, said to have been designed by Judge Willis. The Mechanic's Institution, supported by subscription, reflects great credit on the inhabitants of Melbourne, as it was one of the first public buildings erected.

Most of the houses in the town are built in a substantial manner of brick or stone, but there are houses built of wood, although a great number of these are gradually disappearing. Amongst the numerous dwellings which are springing up in every direction, but few of them are of wood, as it is now as cheap to build with brick. In case of a fire breaking out it is to be feared it would do an incalculable amount of mischief, as all the houses, with but few exceptions, are roofed with shingles. The inhabitants will discover, when perhaps too late, the necessity of manufacturing and roofing with tiles, slate being a very expensive commodity. Port Philip is the principal harbour in the province. It has all the appearance of an inland sea, as it contains eight hundred and seventy-five square miles of water, and is capable of sheltering the whole ofthe navy of Great Britain.

The entrance from the sea is narrow, not more than two miles in width, but notwithstanding this, the navigation is by no means difficult. An efficient pilot establishment renders the passage of vessels from the Heads to Hobson's Bay an easy task. The tide seeking egress by so confined an outlet, flows with amazing force, and when a breeze is blowing from the southward creates a dangerous tide ripple. Vessels endeavouring to enter at ebb tide, even with an eight-knot breeze in their favour, are very often swept out to sea again. The quarter of the port in which the greater part of the shipping lies is in Hobson's Bay, opposite the settlement of Williamstown ; here vessels of 1,300 tons may anchor with perfect safety within four miles of Melbourne by land, and within two of Williamstown. Their is a tradition amongst the natives of this part of the country, that the whole space now occupied by the bay of Port Philip was once dry land, and that the sea overstepping its natural boundary burst through the part of the coast now forming the entrance to the harbour and flooded the whole country and drowned great numbers of people.

Sir Thomas Mitchell, who discovered and traversed a great part of the back country from Port Philip, gave it the much more appropriate name of Australia Felix. The country bordering upon the bay, forms only a district of this territory under the old title of Port Philip. The writer has been thus particular in describing the relation this noble port bears to Australia Felix on account of the great errors which have been made by those unacquainted with the geographical position of the Australian colonies. It is no uncommon occurrence to hear one place confounded with the other, when in point of fact, they may be many hundreds or thousands of miles apart. Thus it is nothing uncommon to see letters, &c. directed to Port Philip, South Australia, It should be recollected, that the Island of New Holland, on which these colonies are planted, com prises an extent of country nearly as large as the whole of Europe, of course possessing various climates — very hot to the northward, and temperate as we proceed further south.

As it may be useful to many to possess a slight know ledge of the position of our different settlements on this great island, the following brief sketch of our colonies I trust will prove acceptable. New South Wales comprises all that extent of country between Cape York on the east coast in 10° 37' south latitude to the shores of Bass's Straits, and westward as far as 141° east longitude. It occupies a space of country three times as large as England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales. Australia Felix, as before stated, is a province of New South Wales ; situated about seven hundred miles from Sydney, the seat of government, and having only experi enced evil from the connection, it will not excite surprise that the inhabitants of this fine province are using every lawful endeavour, by petition and otherwise, to shake off* the union.

The colony, next in importance, is South Australia, of which Adelaide is the capital. This portion of New Holland was discovered in the year 1802, by Captain Matthew Flinders. It is situated in a south-eastern direction, along: the southern shore of Australia, comprehending the space between 132 and 141 degrees of east longitude. It lies between Swan River and New South Wales, and forms an extent of country containing an area of nearly 300,000 square miles, or 192,000,000 acres. Western Australia comprising Swan River and King George's Sound, includes all that portion of New Holland which is situated to the westward of the 129th degree of longitude ; its greatest length from north to south is 1280 miles, and from east to west 800 miles. The settlement of Essington to the north of New Holland, has excited so little attention, that it is only necessary to mention it as completing the list of all the colonies on the island of New Holland.

Port Essington, it appears, is shortly going to be made a penal settlement of, and is to be a free port. Adjacent is the island of Van Diemen's Land, a convict colony, and Flinder's island, also on which the remnant of the aboriginal inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land were placed by government, and who will engage my attention in the course of these pages. The New Zealand islands in these seas, on which there were several British settlements, and which have assumed some notoriety lately, render it almost unnecessary for me to warn intending emigrants from risking any property there until some definite steps have been taken to settle the native claims. Norfolk island, about a fortnight's sail from Sydney, being remote from all other inhabited lands, is now a penal settlement for the worst description of prisoners.

Most of the prisoners there have been transported from New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land for crimes committed in those colonies after the parties had been transported from Great Britain. Thus has one of the most beautiful islands in the world been converted, merely from its peculiar situation, into a huge prison. Having given this brief sketch of the whole of the British settlement in these seas, I will merely state, that in points of the greatest importance in her climate and natural advantages, Australia Felix is inferior to none of these colonies, and now that this province has been and is making such rapid strides against every disadvantage which besets its progress, is it too much to hope that she may very shortly be erected into a separate and independent colony. To shew that this desire of her inhabitants is founded on justice, it is only necessary to trace to its right cause the sad state of affairs in 1842 — 43, and to do this we must look back to the early history of this ill-used settlement.

I have before spoken of the purchase of a large extent of land from the Aborigines by Mr. Batman, and the associa tion with which he was connected. The British government refused to ratify this treaty, assigning several valid reasons for this measure, and Sir Richard Bourke then issued a proclamation declaring the treaty void, and the parties trespassers. After this proceeding the Port Philip settlement could be considered in no other light than as one composed of squatters. It continued to increase rapidly notwithstanding, so much so that the government before a year had elapsed found it necessary to instruct Sir R. Bourke to appoint magistrates and other officers to manage its affairs, and to put the lands up for sale at the same price and on the same conditions as in other parts of New South Wales.

And now commenced that odious system of land jobbing, which for a season threatened to put an end to all legitimate commerce, and thus to ruin this fair and fertile land. At the first government sale of crown lands in the colony, the half acre town allotments of Melbourne were put up at £5 each, the surveyor thinking £7 too much to ask for them. A few months elapsed, and they were again sold to speculators at from £25 to £100 each. In a short time these same allotments were sold at from £700 to £1,000 each ; and this ridiculous price was given for land which had never been improved ; the very trees were still on it as they had been when it was only worth £5. If at this time the Sydney government had put a large quantity of land into the market, it is more than probable that the mania for land speculation would have ceased, but this they did not do.

The coffers of that colony were low, and instead of bringing land down to its real value it was actually increased by raising the price of government land in the town to £1,000 an allotment. It should be borne in mind that all money derived from the sale of crown lands in this province are sent to the Sydney treasury — and that parties buying from government are obliged to pay down a hand some per centage at the time of sale, and the whole sum must be paid at the expiration of a month from the time of making the purchase or the transaction is null and void. I find the following in the Port Philip Gazette, of October, 1838. In its opening address to the public, it observes " Sir George Gipps in laying the estimates for 1839 before the legislative council, stated that the land revenue during the first six months of this year (1838,) amounted to only £31,662 10s. 9d. and estimating the revenue for the last six months at the same rate, we shall have only the sum of £63,325 Is. 6d. to meet the expenditure in emigration in the year 1838.

Now from this it appears, that the total amount of the land revenue realized during the six months of the year, from the entire territory of New South Wales, was £31,662 10s. 9(7. whereas the Melbourne district alone realized in two days, the 12th and 13th September, the sum of £35,359 3s. Od. being positively £3,696 12s. 3d. more than the probable revenue estimated by Sir George Gipps in his financial minute from the land sales of the entire territory of N.s.w. for the last six months of the year." Now all this amount of hard cash was drained from the infant settlement, not yet three years in existence, and applied chiefly for Sydney purposes, from which the Port Philipians could derive no benefit whatever. Would it have been a matter to wonder at, if this place had been deserted, or if Australia Felix had returned to that barbarism from which it had so recently emerged ?

Such mad speculation brought eventually its own punishment and cure ; land is now nearer its true value than it has hitherto been. Allotments may now be purchased in the town of Melbourne, for one half less than they could be when the town was little more than existing orr paper. The price of government land outside the town boundaries, is £1 per acre, but a great deal of the land worth occupying near towns is already purchased. The following is a copy of the prices of government lands at the under mentioned colonies, from No. 1 of the colonization circular, issued by her Majesty's colonial land, and Emigration Commissioners £. s. d. Per acre. Cape of Good Hope 0 2 0 currency. Ceylon 0 5 0 ... Falkland Islands 0 8 0 Canada (West) 0 8 0 Canada (East) 4s. & 6s. New Brunswick 0 3 0 NovaScotia 0 3 0 Australian Colonies 1 0 0 sterling.

The lowest upset price is £1 per acre in the Australian colonies, being more than double and treble the sum demanded for lands within a month's sail of England. Surely, if Canadian lands within 5000 miles of Britain are only worth 4s. 6s. and 8s., Australian waste lands, it stands with reason, situated 16,000 miles away, cannot be worth £1 per acre. As regards the capabilities of the land of Australia Felix and its natural fertility, I cannot do better than quote from the journal of its enterprising discoverer, Major Mitchell. Whilst passing over some of the back country of Australia Felix, Major M says, " every day we passed over land, which for natural fertility and beauty, could scarcely be surpassed ; over streams of unfailing abundance, and plains covered with the richest pasturage ; stately trees and majestic mountains adorned the ever-varying scenery of this region, the most austral of all Australia and the best."

And again, he says, " the splendid and extensive scene was different from any thing I had ever before witnessed either in New South Wales or elsewhere, a land so inviting, and still without inhabitants. As I stood, the first intruder on the sublime solitudes of these verdant plains, as yet untouched by flocks and herds, I felt conscious of being the harbinger of mighty changes there, for our steps would soon be followed by the men and the animals, for which it seemed to have been prepared." Again, " as we proceeded, we found the country had all the appearance of a well kept park, and the rich black earth produced grass in greater luxuriance than I had ever before seen in Australia." " We had at length, he proceeds, discovered a country ready for the immediate reception of civilized man, and fit to become eventually one of the great nations of the earth.

Unencumbered with too much wood, yet possessing enough for all purposes, with an exuberant soil, under a temperate climate, bounded by the sea coast and mighty rivers, and watered abundantly by streams from lofty mountains, this highly interesting region lay before me with all its features, new and untouched as they fell from the hands of the Creator." Much of the country seen by Major Mitchell, and mentioned with so much delight, is now occupied by the flocks and herds of the settlers. Stations have been formed where smiling plenty and a hearty welcome greets the way-worn traveller. The whole face of nature is undergoing a steady, but a sure change, and judging from its progress and its natural advantages, there is little doubt but that the few enterprising Britons who first settled on its shores, are really the germ from which, in the lapse of years, a wealthy and powerful people will arise.

The whole of the back country of Australia is deno minated the bush. Beautiful plains with nothing on them but a luxuriant herbage, gentle rises with scarcely a tree, and all that park-like country met with in Australia Felix in such perfection is included under the general designation of the bush and its white inhabitants as bushmen. The greater part of the country has that happy medium of being j ust enough wooded without inconveniencing the settler, whilst there is no lack of good timber for every purpose he may require. It has been my lot to travel for many days through a country, the only hinderances being an occasional scrub, a belt of thickly wooded forest, a large lagoon, or a deep flowing river where the ground was spread with an eternal verdure, contrasting well with the dark and sombre foliage of the forest trees.

Many parts of the bush where cattle are not very numerous, and where consequently no check is put on vegetation, produce a large mass of vegetable matter which drying up with the heat of the summer, awaits only the first spark of fire to ignite and sweep every thing before it. These bush fires in the hot season are very numerous, large tracts of country are rendered for the time bare and desolate, the whole land is as it were in mourning ; but the first rain soon dispels its ravages, and in a few days its ashes nourish the growth of another crop of grass and and herbage to be in the end attended by a similar result. The trees of the plains all suffer more or less from these visitations, but in the mountains and ranges where the fire seldom penetrates the trees grow to a most amazing size. I have seen stringy bark trees and white gum frequently from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height.

Notwithstanding the number, and fierceness of these fires, I never heard during my residence in the country of a single well authenticated instance of any human being having suffered from them in life or limb. Far different is it with the crops and huts of the settlers if proper precaution is not taken by ploughing up a few feet of land all around the huts and paddocks. This effectually prevents the ravages of the fire, but is often deferred until too late. Unless some means are adopted before the fire make its appearance, the probability is, that " at one fell swoop" the unfortunate settler will find himself without a home and with only a few chard posts to remind him where once stood his perhaps flourishing station. His crops burned, his cattle spread over the country, it is likely he will discover the truth of the old adage " misfortunes seldom come singly."

Many have returned in disgust from their " adopted country" from events of this description taking place on their first entry on colonial life. The flooding of a river, a very common occurrence during the winter months, if the country around has not been properly examined is often found as destructive to the hopes and crops of the settler as a bush fire when it reaches a station, when no preparations have been made to restrain its fury. The soil throughout the province is on the whole very rich, and is capable of producing in conjunction with the fine salubrious climate all the necessaries and most of the luxuries of life. The richest land, and that which would produce the most abundant crops, exists in the tiers and mountain ranges, but cultivation here is out of the question in the present state of the labor market.

In fact, it is a question with settlers whether an agricultural farm would prove a remunerating concern at a further distance from a market than thirty miles by land carriage. When water presents facilities for transporting produce, it would of course, make a material difference in favor of the agricul turist. Corn of every description is grown and produces abundantly, yielding an average of forty bushels to the acre, from soil which has received no stimulants, and on which a very little labor has been bestowed. There are many gardens now in a state of great perfection near Melbourne. English fruits have been introduced and bear well, and in a short period, although there are some, the climate does not appear to agree with. Strawberries, gooseberries, and raspberries, never arrive at the great perfection they do in England, but almost all the other kinds of British fruits thrive well.

Melons are grown in the open air, and grapes are produced abundantly, indeed so much so as to leave little doubt that the colonists will in a few years make their own wine. Tobacco is cultivated by the sheep farmer for the purpose of dressing his flocks for the scab, a disease which with proper care will be eventually eradicated from the country. Smokers find they cannot enjoy colonial tobacco on account of its not being properly prepared, consequently a great proportion of the weed which is smoked is imported from America and a heavy duty levied on it. All the culinary vegetables and herbs which are found in England, are produced with scarcely an intermission the whole year round. Potatoes are very prolific and good, frequently there are twelve tons to the acre. In the year 1843, I saw several of this useful vegetable weighing from three pounds eight ounces to four pounds each, grown on the station of Mr. C. Man ton, in Westernport.

Oats are grown for the consumption of cattle in towns, and are usually brought to market in a green state. The natural productions of the country fit for food are scanty and poor ; man must " earn his bread by the sweat of his brow," or starve. But there is no country where a greater return is made to the industrious emigrant, than in this. Amongst the tew native fruits, may be enumerated the wild raspberry, it is of good flavour, and is found by the banks of rivers in great luxuriance. The wild cherry, (exocarpus,) a small fruit, with the stone growing on the outside, something like the yew-berry. The wild currant, (leucopogon Richer,) a small bushy shrub, with fruit about the size of the English description, but of a more acid flavor. The fruit of a creeping plant, called in this country, pig face, (mysenbry authemum aquilaterale,) is pleasant to the taste, the juicy leaves make excellent pickles, and are often used for that purpose in the bush.