A Voyage round Great Britain; with short views of Aberdeen, Balmoral, ... Fécamp, Havre and Paris

Front matter

SAMPSON LOW'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. NEW WORK BY THE AUTHOR OF 'THE HEAD HUNTERS OF BORNEO.' TEMPLES and ELEPHANTS ; or, Narrative of a Journey of Exploration through Upper Siam and Lao. By Carl Bock. With Coloured Plates and numerous Woodcuts, i vol. 8vo. cloth extra, 24s. CEYLON in 1883 : the Leading Crown Colony of the British Empire. By John Ferguson. With an Account of the Progress made since 1803 under successive British Governors, and of the Present Condition of its Agricultural and Commercial Enterprises ; the Resources awaiting development by Capitalists ; and the Unequalled Attractions of Hill Climate and Scenery offered to Visitors. With much Useful Statistical Information, a specially prepared Map, and Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. The CRUISE of the ■ FALCON ' : a Voyage to the Pacific in a 30-ton Yacht.

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An AMERICAN FOUR-IN-HAND in BRITAIN. By Andrew Carnegie, i vol. 8vo. with an Autotype Illustration, ioj. 6d. * A genial, jovial, almost rollicking record of a trip in a four-in-hand from Brighton to Inverness ; and the high spirits and good humour of the writer infect the reader.' Truth. LOW'S STANDARD LIBRARY OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE. Crown 8vo. (except where price is stated), per volume ys. 6d. 1. Butler (Major W. F.). GREAT LONE LAND. 2. Butler (Major W. F. ). WILD NORTH LAND. 3. Stanley (H. M.). HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 4. Stanley (H. M.) THROUGH the DARK CONTINENT. r vol. Illustrated, 125'. 6d. 5. Markham (C. R.). THRESHOLD of the UNKNOWN REGION. Fourth Edition, enlarged, 1047. 6d. 6. Markham (A. H.). WHALING CRUISE to BAFFIN'S BAY and the GULF of BOOTHIA. 7. MacGahan (J. A.). CAMPAIGNING on the ONUS. 8.

Chapter I. Liverpool To The

' BAR LIGHTSHIP.' ' Build me straight, O worthy master ! Stanch and strong, a goodly vessel, That shall laugh at all disaster, And with wave and whirlwind wrestle.' Longfellow. ' Brevity is the soul of wit. '—Shakespeare. At twelve o'clock at noon on Saturday, July 21, 1883, I left the Mersey, at a port a few miles above Liverpool, in the good ship ' Dairy Maid.' We were bound for a sail round the British Isles (England and Scotland). Our ship was not a steamer or a yacht, but a three-masted schooner of some three hun dred tons burden, engaged in the mercantile service, trading along the coast of Great Britain, and occa sionally going to ports in Spain, Portugal, the Medi terranean, and up the Baltic. Our cargo consisted of 280 tons of salt in bulk from the port of Runcorn. The ship was owned by Messrs. E. Porter & Co. B (Limited), os Fleetwood, shipping merchants, who had some sixteen to twenty ships engaged in thc trade, and she was commanded by Captain Henry Abram, of whom I will presently speak.

We had a crew of six all told, of whom I will also presently speak. The port of Runcorn, on the Cheshire side of the river, is some eighteen miles up the river Mersey from Liverpool, and does a large shipping trade in coal, salt, and various kinds of chemicals in which the inhabitants are largely employed. The various manufactures of the town are shipped from here to almost every port in the world. There is also another port, at Weston Point, similarly engaged, but not to so large an extent. This port is near to the river Weaver, fourteen miles from Liverpool. We were towed down the river from Runcorn in company with three other sailing vessels, all outward bound, by a steam tug, the ' Queen of the Mersey,' and left at anchor in the river opposite New Ferry. At this time, 3.0 P.M., our captain wisely decided to remain until Monday noon's tide, about 1.30.

But he had several reasons for doing so : he was a man short of his full strength of crew, and this man, of all others, was the cook — a most essential person on board ship, where you cannot change your quarters or your cuisine at pleasure ; where, like being on terra firma, if you are dissatisfied with your present hotel, you can pack up your belongings and move to ' BAR LIGHTSHIP.' 3 the next hotel. A second and third reason for delaying his start was a dead wind against him, and the lateness on a Saturday afternoon. However, at 3.0 p.m. we were cast loose by the steam tug, and safely anchored in the wide part of the river some miles above Liverpool, on the Cheshire side, where we found ourselves in company with a large number of vessels similarly situated to ourselves. The Cheshire side of the river, at and above New Ferry, is a capital place for' lying at anchor, and, from the very large expanse of water, affords shelter and anchorage for an enormous number of vessels.

This part of the river is considerably better adapted for vessels lying at anchor, waiting for winds and tides, than any other portion down the river, such as in front of Birkenhead or New Brighton, where the river is much narrower, the currents stronger, and traffic more numerous and congested. The port of Liverpool is not a very beautiful one from an artistic point of view ; but, though I have seen one or two of the finest and most picturesque ports, I do not think a finer sight can be witnessed than some sixty to one hundred trading vessels, all laden, and with anchors dropped and sails furled, awaiting an opportunity of quietly sliding down the river, over the bar, and so out to sea. I remember, a number of years ago, being on board a vessel in the Bay of Syracuse, in Sicily, after B sunset, and the sight was a magnificently fine one : a large number of vessels were lying at anchor, and when lights were hoisted it had more the appearance of a town.

And the enchantment of the moment was enhanced by the sweet strains of music, which came floating over the water from the town. This music came from a military band belonging to a Sicilian corps. The views in New Ferry are very similar : the water, thickly studded with vessels carrying two anchor lights fore and aft, presents an animated, though a quiet, scene of life. As I have already stated, the captain decided not to lift anchor until the midday tide on Monday. I had some friends living at a distance of forty miles ; I at once resolved to spend the Sunday with them, and, in pursuit of this object, started by train at 4.10 P.M. from the Exchange station. 6.0 p.m. saw me with my friends. The captain, who resided some twelve miles away, also preferred spending his Sunday at home ; so, leaving the vessel in charge of the mate, we both vacated our berths for two nights.

Monday noon saw the captain and myself again on board. He had been successful in securing the services of a cook, who afterwards proved a useful and agreeable (so far as his culinary experiences went) member of the crew. But, again, disappointment in setting sail still awaited us. No wind and an ominous sunset caused another delay over Monday. ' BAR LIGHTSHIP.' 5 Of all people in the world, sailors are the most weather wise, and upon consideration it is no wonder that such should be the case. Of all classes, wind and weather to them are matters of life and death. Though no boat ought to go to sea unless perfectly seaworthy, how many good vessels are lost, and, in many cases, through no fault of seamanship or want of bravery ! Of the four elements, I am afraid water is the worst. Fire is a dangerous customer certainly, but fire can be extinguished.

Water, especially as met with in the rough ocean by a small and perhaps unseaworthy vessel, is a dangerous customer and not easily vanquished. From many vessels in the quiet stillness of after noon and evening, I heard queries addressed from one captain to another, perhaps to neighbouring vessels at a distance of eighty or one hundred yards. ' Shall we get off to-morrow ? ' ' What do you think of the weather? ' ' No, I do not think so! ' ' I do not at all like it!' From these and similar remarks and con versations, I came ,to the conclusion that there is a sort of freemasonry even among sailors — that as brother helps brother, so ' sailor informs sailor,' and ' sailor and sailor commune.' The next day was another disappointment. The captain, before retiring at 10.30, directed to be called at 1.30.

The time of high-water was about two. His object was, if a fair wind had prevailed, to have weighed anchor and made a start. But no ! no change, no wind still, and so he turns in again. Tuesday morning comes in with a prediction fulfilled. The ominous sunset of the previous evening was the index of a gale of wind, a gale of wind which most mariners wish to avoid. It blew big guns from the north, and as that wind was almost dead against us, unless a change occurred we were again locked up on the water for another day. And so it proved : not until sunset was there any abatement in the intensity of the wind. At 4 P.M., when the captain saw there was no prospect of a start, he elected to go home again for the night, in tending being aboard early in the morning. And so again the boat was in charge of the mate.

Do not imagine, my dear reader, that the captain in such continued and repeated visits to his home was induced to do so because he had a fair face there to look upon, or a charming person with whom he liked to have a daily and personal intercourse. No; the captain was not married. He had not a young, newly married wife whom he was loth to leave ; and, as a sensible man would do, preferred, instead of sleeping on board in harbour, to go home to his family. He had left some commercial transactions un finished when his loaded vessel and his duty called him to his post. But, the wind continuing contrary, he took the opportunity of going home, to try and see if he could not finish those transactions, and so leave his affairs, before starting, in a fairly straight way. ' BAR LIGHTSHIP. 7 Upon leaving the vessel in the afternoon, he announced his intention of being aboard again the following day, and, if the wind was favourable, of starting with the flood tide at three o'clock in the afternoon, However, the following day (Wednesday) passed, and he did not come on board.

The wind had continued strong from the north (a head wind) all the previous day, night, and again to-day, and so he postponed his return in consequence. This afternoon I passed a little time with my gun, shooting at the sea-gulls flying about. I was successful in killing one, and immediately the boat was lowered, and two men started in pursuit. A strong tide was running up river, and it was some little time before it was recovered and brought on board. It was dressed, and served for dinner the following day. I found it very good indeed, much better than I expected. In the evening, a small boat passing down river hailed us with a message from the captain, that he was not coming on board until the following day. The following day, the wind slightly changed and abated. At last we were to make a move, after waiting with some sixty or seventy others for a favourable wind to start out to sea ; some of our companions in waiting for one part of the world, and some for another, all intent upon securing a fair wind and sine weather, but none wishing to risk the reverse.

The day had been bright, fine, and sunny, with a very light breeze from nearly due north, when at 3.0 p.m. the captain came on board. His first words were, ' Up with the sails,' and at once activity took the place of semi-idleness. The first move was made at ten minutes past three, and in half an hour we were beating down Channel. This beating down Channel is rather in teresting, and consequently I will try, though I am afraid rather imperfectly, to describe it. But before doing so I want to put on record that the last few days had not been spent in idleness. Not by any means. Each day the crew had been kept at full work, repairing sails, splicing ropes, repairing ladders, cleansing ship, and last, painting the inside of bulwarks on deck. The wind had been steadily blowing north for several days, with rather a rough appear ance, and consequently so many detentions in the river.

But the day being fine and bright, and only a light wind, the temptation was too strong to resist. At least some twenty vessels took advantage of the opportunity, and an hour after high tide the river in front of the landing-stage might have been seen studded with schooners tacking about down river. Two boats near to us at starting had cargoes also from Runcorn. One, a Fleetwood boat named the ' Jessie,' loaded with salt, was bound for Newcastle on-Tyne ; the other, the ' Snowflake,' loaded with coals, for Plymouth. 'BAR LIGHTSHIP.' 9 One or two accidents I saw nearly occurred in the various vessels wanting to get along too quickly, by avoiding the acknowledged rules of the road ; one especially, in our case, with a Danish vessel, but which I will explain presently. In beating down with a head wind, the length of tack must necessarily be short, and in our own case we had to make some thirty 'abouts ' before passing the ' bar' — some long and others short ; several shorter than otherwise would have been the case" had the river not been so crowded.

The bar is situate some fifteen miles below the port of Liverpool, and some twenty miles from where we had lain at anchor for several days. Why it should be called the bar, nautical men and engineers thoroughly well know, but to a civilian on board, the bar at all times presents the same appearance. However, for those who have heard of it, and do not understand it, I will just explain that the so called bar is at the entrance to the principal channel running into the port, just ' at the point where the channel ends and the deep water commences. This bar is silted up with sand, caused by the flowing and ebbing of the tide, and at low water the depth is in sufficient to allow vessels of deep draught — that is, vessels deep in the water — to pass over, causing a delay until the depth of water is increased.

Among the fleet passing down the river was a vessel named ' Earl Cairns,' I suppose after the Lord Chancellor in Lord Beaconsfield's Government. This vessel had obtained a wide notoriety for its fast-sailing powers ; but from observations it was either badly commanded, or its sailing capabilities were over-estimated. We passed over the bar at 8.35 P.M., just a little over four hours in doing twenty miles, very fair sailing, considering the great number of times we had to turn about. Just before passing the bar, a little incident occurred worthy of mention. The Danish vessel, a brigantine, was being piloted by one of the Liverpool pilots, many of whom, I am told, are practically useless ; most of the masters of vessels entering and leaving the port being better able to command their own vessels.

But, by a regulation of the Dock Board, who are practically owners of the port, all vessels of one hundred tons burden and over, are compelled to take a pilot on board. The Danish vessel and ourselves were sailing upon the starboard tack. We were in advance, and sailing near to the wind, nearer than she could, and gradually she drew upon us. Both had all sail set, and the pilot, presuming upon his position, wanted our captain to give way. This he was not inclined to do, and some sharp words passed across the water at a distance of, perhaps, forty yards — rather too near quarters for two sailing vessels with all sail set. The pilot ordered and threatened, but to no purpose. Our captain knew his rights, and was prepared to exact them. And it was only when the pilot saw he had a man to deal ' BAR LIGHTSHIP.' 11 with who knew his rights, and would insist upon having them, much to his indignation he gave way by luffing up to windward.

It is a notoriously well known fact amongst seamen that most of the Liver pool pilots send on small vessels no one but appren tices, sent from the various pilot-boats plying on the river, after passing some sort of examination as to banks, streams, channels, &c. ; but as to management of a sailing vessel, they are, in most cases, utterly incapable. And cases of the following description often take place. A vessel is coming into port, with a fair wind, and with all sail set. The master of the vessel is bound by regulation to take on a pilot. He hails one, takes him on board, and, immediately, the pilot proposes to the master to engage a steam tug to take her up the river. This adds a con siderably large increase, and he refuses. The pilot remonstrates, but to no purpose, and the end of the dispute is settled by the master taking up his own vessel, the pilot standing by.

Our captain's last word, and which seemed to settle the point was, ' I thought you had a Liverpool pilot aboard ; no one else would have asked me to give way.'

Chapter II. Ship And Crew

' She walks the waters like a thing of life, And seems to dare the elements to strife.' — Byron. ' A motley, but a goodly crew. ' AND now having fairly got out to sea, perhaps I may be permitted to give a short descriptive history of our boat and its crew and freight. The ship ' Dairy Maid,' was owned by Messrs. Ed. Porter & Co. (Limited), of Fleetwood, of 155 tons register, and 300 tons burden. She was built at Glasson Dock, near to Lancaster, on the Lune, by Mr. Simpson, about the year 1870. She was a three masted schooner of the ordinary build. She was freighted with 280 tons of salt, as I have already stated, from the port of Runcorn to Aberdeen, on the east coast of Scotland. Her crew consisted ot six hands all told, and a dog of the setter breed named Jumbo, and belonging to the captain.

I occupied a slightly anomalous position, not being one of the crew, or in any way connected with the vessel, except in that of being a part owner. The best description I can give of myself is that I was ' a supercargo ' — an individual out on a pleasure trip. The crew consisted of a captain, mate, cook, two able seamen, and a boy. The captain's name, as already stated, was Henry Abram, of Runcorn, born of a seafaring family. He had commanded the vessel for eighteen months. He had been a master for six years, having previously commanded the schooner ' William Gil more,' of Fleetwood, 220 tons burden, and the ' Bernice,' a three-masted schooner of 250 tons burden. His age was twenty-seven, and he had been on the water fourteen years, leaving home for the sea at the age of thirteen. That he came of a sealoving family, the following particulars will fully prove.

And, if I may be allowed, I will proceed backwards in thc chronological list. He had three brothers, all of whom had adapted the sea for their profession ; two, one older and one younger, being masters of vessels, and the youngest (John) being on board the ' Dairy Maid ' with him. His father had been a sailor all his life, having been so employed thirty-five years out of a total of fifty-five years, that being his age. His last ship, of which he was both owner and master, had been wrecked in January last, since which time he had not been to sea. His (the captain's) six uncles had all been sailors. Two were still at sea, two had been drowned, one was dead, and the other had given up the sea and now lived on terra fir ma. His grandfather had been a seaman all his life, most of it a master of a vessel, and his great-grandfather had also been on the water, plying his trade on the Mersey.

The captain, though young, was an active and energetic seaman, loving his profession, and determined to follow it as a sailor should. He had an eye to every emergency, always at his post, and, when there, knowing what to do. He had studied navigation, and was able to read a chart with any seafaring man. In fact, he was too good for his post, and fully deserved a higher appointment. When off watch on deck he was always ready when called. He had the happy knack of being able to steal an hour's sleep when he was not wanted for the management of his vessel. He could go to sleep when he desired in a minute, and equally so he could wake in a moment and be on deck at his post. Peter Le Breton, the mate, was an elderly man, having reached the age of fifty-five. Forty years out of those fifty-five had been spent upon the water.

He was a Jerseyite, having been born in the island of Jersey. Having married an Exmouth woman, he fixed his quarters there. He was a short, thick-set man, and had seen much service of various sorts. Through his own fault, he had neglected to obtain a master's certificate, or, indeed, any certificate, though he was fully entitled now, except on account of his age. He had let the proper moment — when not too old — pass by. This want of certificate precluded him from taking command of a vessel, and even from acting as mate on a vessel foreign bound. But in the coasting trade he could occupy that post, as a certificate is not required. This want of a certificate was very detrimental, as it precluded him from rising in his profession. He was a good seaman, quiet, orderly, and gentlemanly in his demeanour.

He had a large family of nine children, six of whom are now living. Out of the six, he had one son on board a steamer trading to various parts ; but the last heard of him was at Venice. His (the mate's) father and grandfather had also been on the sea. He had served twelve years in the Naval Reserves, and at the age of sixty would be entitled to a pension of 12/. a year. He had been on board the 'Dairy Maid ' some six months. Many times during the voyage I stood on deck, late at night, during the mate's watch ; and from his long experience on the water he had collected and remembered many stories which had occurred during his career, and which he would relate. He could indeed spin some fine yarns. Francois Vince, able seaman, was a Frenchman, having been born at St. Nazaire (in the Bay of Bis cay), France.

He was only twenty-six years old, and had been a sailor fifteen years. He could not be said to come of a nautical family, not having a relative on the water. The account of his going to sea, as given by himself, was that he had as a child a passion for it. His grandfather had been owner of some French vessels, and when the men came ashore the boy was petted, and had presents given to him, and so his liking for the sea grew with his growth. At the age of eleven, he ran away from home, and embarked on board a French vessel engaged in trade. The French, he said, were hard taskmasters, and, having served some time, he determined on a change. The ship upon which he then was left Bordeaux for Val paraiso, at which place he deserted and joined an American ship bound for Liverpool. But, if the Frenchmen were hard masters, he found the Americans harder still.

When he joined the American vessel, he knew not a word of the English language ; but he speedily picked it up, and now speaks very fair English. At Liverpool he again changed. Leaving the American, he joined an English schooner, and had continued so engaged up to the present time. His father was a small farmer at St. Nazaire. He shipped on board the ' Dairy Maid ' at Runcorn, at the commencement of this voyage. He had served for a short time in the French army, being called up under the conscription laws. His time for joining the colours again ought to have been in the year 18S0. But he evidently had had as much of a soldier's life as he liked, and preferred to live as a sailor rather than as a soldier. David Wood, able seaman, was a Scotchman, having been born at John o' Groat's, only a few doors from the house in which the celebrated and historical 'John o' Groat' lived.

He was only twenty-six years old, and had been on the water since he was eight, but most of his early years were spent with his father and brothers in fishing. He had lost his father and two brothers by drowning at sea. His father's fishing-boat was seen to go down when re turning from a fishing expedition five miles from the coast of Wick, where he lived, from, as it was supposed, being overladen. One brother had been drowned in a Wick schooner, and the other in an Aberdeen schooner. This young fellow was a good-hearted and jolly and good seaman, but he had no aptitude evidently for learning, for he had not mastered the compass. He was also shipped at Runcorn. He had only one brother living, a stone-mason at the Cape of Good Hope, and one sister married to a skipper living in Wick, Scotland.

Of the cook, shipped at Liverpool, I shall say little. He wanted a good deal of watching, or the dinner would not have been ready at the proper moment. He had been spoiled in his youth by the strictness of his father, so he said, who was master of a vessel, and had run away from home at an early age. He had not seen his parents for a number of C years, and was not aware whether they were alive or dead. The last time he had heard of his father — not from him, but of him — was over three years ago. He was not married, and, I am inclined to think, just worked sufficient to keep himself. Engaging on board a ship when his money was done, and when in cash again idling and spending it. He called himself an Englishman, but his speech slightly indicated, and his manners more, a slight tinge of the Irish character.

His name was Hutchison. I put him down as an Irishman. John Abram was the boy of whom I spoke when numbering the crew ; perhaps I ought not to call him a boy, as he was fast getting from boy to young man. His age was sixteen. He had been at sea only some fourteen months. He was brother to the captain, his youngest brother, and was intended at some future time also to be master of a vessel. He was a better cook than the profes sional one we had shipped at Liverpool, and, when the cook was at watch below, he officiated in his stead. Thus, as the reader will perceive, our crew con sisted of two Englishmen, ajerseyite, a Frenchman, a Scotchman, and an Irishman — a pretty well mixed crew ; but I must do them the justice of saying that they worked remarkably well together, and were always good tempered, unanimous, and in perfect accord, ruled and guided by the good sense and wise discretion of the captain.

They were divided into two watches, the cap tain and mate taking alternate watches. The captain had with him in his watch the Scotchman and the Irishman ; and the mate, the Frenchman, and John. Perhaps I may here be at liberty to explain certain nautical terms which we meet with in every day life in passing through the world, sometimes in novels, but more commonly in the daily papers, giving contemporary accounts of vessels' sailings, wrecks, and general information of shipping, trade, and commerce. The major part of the people little understand these nautical terms, which they read in the papers and books published now-a-days, such as fathoms, knots, bells, watches, &c. Let me briefly explain, for the benefit of those unacquainted, and who may perchance read these few lines, the meaning of some of these terms.