The History of Galashiels

Front matter

HISTORY OF GALASHIELS. Of this Volume 425 Copies have been printed, of which this is No. Galashiels in THE Pistorp of Galashiels BY ROBERT HALL. publisbe<> un&er tbe auspices ot Cbe ©alasbiels flfoanufacturers' Corporation. Æalasbtcls: ALEXANDER WALKER & SON, PUBLISHERS. i 898. Printed by A. Walker & Son, Galashiels. P RE FACE. The modern portion of Galashiels being practically a growth of the Victorian Era, it may be assumed that ample information regardingits history would be readily accessible, and that the selection of fitting material, rather than the pro curing of it, would prove the more difficult task. This, however, is not the case. So far as the earlier half of the present century is concerned, little of an authentic nature is to be found Oral testimony and tradition are equally unreliable, and records of any description are extremely scarce.

To many much of the subject-matter may appear trivial and uninteresting; yet little details, which, through familiarity, may seem superfluous to present-day readers, will, in all probability, appear in a different light to their successors, for whose information they have been placed on record. With the view of presenting a narrative as continuous and connected as possible, the work has been divided into sections. These embody all the available information bearing upon the civic, ecclesiastical, industrial, educational, and other relations in the town's history. While collecting material for the work the author has to acknowledge the unvarying courtesy and kindness he received from all he had occasion to approach. In this connection the names of Mr Nenion Elliot, S.S.C., Clerk of Teinds, Edinburgh, and Mr David McB.

Watson, Hawick, are entitled to special mention. The following gentlemen have also rendered valuable assistance in reading for the press, viz., — Mr James Smail, Edinburgh; Mr John McQueen and Mr James L. Anderson, Galashiels. Acknowledgment has also to be made to Mr Nicholas Dickson, editor of the Border Magazine, Glasgow, for the use of the plate of Abbotsford in 1812; Mr Balmain, photographer, Edinburgh, for copy of portrait of Dr Douglas; Mr Andrew Elliot, publisher, Princes Street, Edinburgh, for photograph of Dr Nathaniel Paterson; Mr James Sanderson, Woodlands, for the use of the originals of the views of the town; and to Mr Donald G. Stalker for the sketch of Lindean Kirkyard. The author trusts the volume will prove of interest to the general reader, and more especially to townsmen who cherish the traditions and associations that cluster round the place of their abode.

Chapter I. The

town of Galashiels, unlike most of the towns on the Scottish Border, has little or no ancient history; it inherits no proud traditions of heroic deeds performed by its sons; legend and song are nearly alike silent concerning it. Occupying one of the passes leading between the Southern Highlands and the Lowland plains, there is little recorded regarding the part it played in the stirring annals of the Bor derland. It possesses no archives, no musty charters from William the Lion, or David of church-building memory ; no broad acres or wide-spreading commons, in defence of which its inhabitants could be called upon to peril life or limb. Only a century ago Galashiels was but an obscure country village situated on a steep hillside. Hidden among the hills, its existence was scarcely known outside the pastoral valley in which its sons founded a habitation and a name.

As a town, it is the architect of its own fortunes, owing its birth and progress to the energy and perseverance of those who planted their spin ning mills on the banks of the Gala, discerning the value of the power possessed by that classic stream. i A The name Galashiels is said to be derived from the British givala (the full stream), and the Saxon shiel (or shelter) — the shiels or shelters on the banks of the Gala, used by the keepers of the forest, hunters, and shepherds. These erections would be of the rudest description, owing to their liability to be destroyed in the frequent hostile incursions from across the Border. The name has been subjected to a variety of spellings, amongst which occur the following, — Galuscheil, Gallowschel, Galowayscheelis, Galwschelis, Galloschelis, Gallaschelis, Gal lowscheillis, Gallowschelis, Gallowsheills, Gallowshields, Gala sheels, Gallosheiles, Gallascheiles, Galasheills, Galashields, &c. The Scottish Border counties afford many examples of places called shiels, but none of them has expanded into a town like the shiels on the banks of the Gala.

Foulshiels, the birth-place of Mungo Park, and Cauldshiels, adjoining Abbotsford, are familiar examples. So many of the old villages have now dis appeared that the name shiels is frequently found attached to farm houses and the solitary dwellings of shepherds, these being all that remain to mark the spot they once occupied. In a charter granted by David I. to the Monks of Melrose, Gala is spelt Galche, and again in a charter by William the Lion, Gallic. In the Liber de Mailros, mention of the Gala frequently occurs. During the reign of Alexander III. it appears to have changed its course, as on the 13th April, 1268, Simon Fraser, Sheriff of Traquair, and others, were directed to pass to the lands adjoining the "Galu," and inquire how far, according to its "new course," the possessions of the Abbot and convent of Melrose were affected.

As the haugh upon which Galashiels is built is the only part in the valley of the Gala which belonged to the Abbey lands, there can be little doubt that this reference applies to the site of the older portion of the town. The natural con figuration of the locality warrants the assumption that, at some remote period, the stream must have flowed more to the south 1337 than it does at the present day. From Kilnknowe to Nether dale the scaur, formed by the action of the water, still remains in the form of a steep wooded bank, except at such places where it has been interfered with in connection with the building of the town. Therefore, as the Abbey lands in the locality were bounded on the south by the Gala, this alteration in its course would affect nearly all the haugh, upon which the lower portion of the town is built.

The summit of Gala Hill, at the base of which the original village nestled, is called Gorgum, and is supposed to be the place mentioned in Blind Harry's Wallace as Gorkhelm, where Cospatrick, Earl of Dunbar, entrenched himself against a threatened attack by the Scottish patriot in 1296. ' Erll Patrik than, in all haist can him speid, And passit by, or Wallace power rais; With out restyng, in Atrik forrest gais, Wallace folowed, bot he waid nocht assaill: A rang to mak as than it mycht nocht waill: Our few he had, the strenth was thick and strong. Vij myill on breid, and tharto twys so long, In till Gorkhelm Erll Patrik leiffit at rest, For more power Wallace past in the west." The rival armies had previously met in Haddingtonshire, where Cospatrick had suffered defeat. Fleeing into Berwickshire, he advanced westward by Norham and Coldstream, but, according to the above quotation, before Wallace could bring forward the main body of his army, his opponent hurriedly made his way into Ettrick Forest.

Wallace followed him, but, finding, from his numerical inferiorityand the impenetrable nature of the district, that no advantage was to be gained by making an attack at that time, he went into the west for the purpose of procuring assistance, while Cospatrick entrenched himself in Gorkhelm, where he rested in security. The earliest mention of Galuschel in history occurs in 1337 in the following quotation from Scalacronica, — " The marchers of England hering of the sege of Edenburge, cam to rescue it: so that the [Scots] cam thens to Clerkington and the Englischmenne cam to Krethtoun, where betwixt them and the Scottes was a great fighte, and many slayne on both parties. Then the Scottes made as they wold go yn to England, and lodged themself at Galuschel and the Englische went over Twede."

In connection with this retreat of the English, the origin of the town's arms is said to have arisen. These at present consist of a plumtree with a fox on each side, and the motto "Sour Plums." Tradition affirms that a party of the English army, suspecting no danger, straggled from the main body, and began to gather the wild plums that grew in profusion in the locality. While so engaged, they were surprised by the Scots, who fell upon them and cut them off to a man, their bodies being thrown into a trench situated in the Eastlands, which is termed the "Englishman's syke" to the present day. In com memoration of this exploit, the inhabitants of the village, who may have taken part in the skirmish, adopted the sarcastic title of the " Sour plums of Galashiels." In a volume recently published, entitled The Arms of the Royal and Parliamentary Burghs of Scotland, it is stated that the arms of the town are not recorded in the Lyon Office, and it is considered probable that the design had its origin in connection with the fable of the fox and grapes.

Some colour is supposed to be given to this surmise on account of the design of the Burgh seal being a vine with fruit and two foxes. Little or no weight can be attached to this circumstance, as the seal is of modern origin, having been procured in 1868. The want of uniformity between it and the town's arms may be simply accounted for by assuming that the official who gave instructions regarding the design of the seal may have been more familiar with the fable of the fox and grapes, which he probably imagined the town's arms represented, than with the ancient history of the town. Acting under the belief that the plum tree should have been a vine, he appears to have given such instructions to the engraver as to account for this departure from the proper design. Even the volume in question affords an example of how such innovations are made.

It describes the town's arms as being, in the language of heraldry, "On a mount a plumtree fructed, between two foxes; that on the dexter statant, and that on the sinister segant." The engraving shows the plum tree elevated on a mound, which is a departure from any representation of the town's arms hitherto published, and is even at variance with the illustration from which, it is stated, the design was derived. It is also probable that the introduction of the foxes has been effected in a similar manner. This view is supported by a reference to the design of the town's arms, contained in the following extract from a manuscript written in the earlier years of the present century, by the late Mr Elliot Anderson, writer, from which it appears at that date only one fox was repre sented, "It is therefore a mistake to make the coat of arms as they at present are, ' The Tod and Plum Tree,' which is evidently taken from the fable of the fox and grapes.

The arms should be simply a plumtree fruited, with the motto, 'Sour Plums.'" There can be little doubt that this view of the subject is the correct one. These departures from the original design have in all probability been carried into effect by persons who were in ignorance regarding the tradition from which the town's arms originated. The " Sour Plums of Galashiels" were celebrated in an old song, the words of which are lost, though the tune remains. There is a manuscript journal extant, written by Alexander Campbell, editor of Albyn's Anthology, who visited the Borders in 1816 for the purpose of collecting local tunes. This journal contains notices of the best Border pipers of the eighteenth century, taken down from the conversation of Mr Thomas Scott (uncle of Sir Walter Scott), who was himself a skilful performer on the Lowland, or bellows, pipes, one of those referred to being " Donald Maclean, piper at Galashiels, who was a capital piper, and the only one who could play on the pipe the old popular tune of the ' Sour Plums of Galashiels,' it requiring a peculiar art of pinching the back hole of the chanter with the thumb to produce the higher notes of the melody in question.

Donald Maclean was the father of the well-known William Maclean, dancing master, Edinburgh, and died about the middle of last century. Richard Lees, manufacturer in Galashiels, has the said William Maclean's bagpipes in his possession." In the works of Hamilton of Bangour occurs an unfinished mock heroic poem entitled "The Maid of Galoshiels." The scene is laid at a Galashiels fair, the principal characters being a piper and fiddler, whom, in presence of the "maids, widows, wives, and matrons of Galoshiels," the piper accuses of abusing the laws of hospitality by supplanting him in the affections of the frail and fickle "Elspet, " the maid in question. According to Cromek, the piper referred to in the poem was the above Donald Maclean, who, in the beginning of last century, acted as piper to Sir James Scott of Gala.

It is stated by Robert Burns that Maclean was the author of the air called " Gallashiels." This tune, however, is only a variation, written upon a lower key, of the old tune the " Sow'r Plumbs of Gallow Shiels," and published for the first time in Orpheus Caledonius, in 1725. The earliest allusion to the song, or air, "Sour Plums of Galashiels," is found in an old version of "Gala Water," quoted elsewhere; and it appears from internal evidence to have been in existence in 1632, but how much earlier cannot be determined. The opinion is held that these tunes are identical, and that the title "Sour Plums of Galashiels " is only another or fuller name for the tune "Gallashiels," said to be composed by Maclean. According to the above quotation regarding Maclean's ability to play the "old popular tune," he would not have been referred to in these terms had he been the composer.

Doubtless, the fact, if it were so, would be known to Thomas Scott, who may have been intimate with him in his younger days. Thomas Scott died in 1823, aged ninety, and it is stated by Sir Walter Scott that his uncle, " Being a great musician on the Scotch pipes, had, when on his death bed, a favourite tune played over to him by his son James, that he might be sure he left him in full possession of it. After hearing it, he hummed it over himself, and corrected it in several of the notes. The air was that called ' Sour Plums of Galashiels.' " With reference to this instance of the ruling passion strong in death, Ruskin thus writes, — " No occasion for death-bed repentance, you perceive, on the part of this old gentleman, no particular care even for the disposition of his handsome independence ; but here is a bequest of which one must see one's son in full possession ; here's a thing to be well looked after before setting out for heaven, that the tune of ' Sour Plums of Galashiels ' may still be played on earth in an incorrupt manner, and no damnable French or English variations intruded upon the solemn and authentic melody thereof."

The lands and manor of Galashiels formed part of Ettrick Forest, and originally belonged to the Crown, being granted in 1321 to Sir James Douglas by Robert Bruce. The boundaries of this famous forest were enlarged at various times, and latterly comprised an irregular tract of country containing that portion of the Tweed and its tributaries extending from Langlee to the neighbourhood of Traquair; this area included the Ettrick, Yarrow, Caddon, and their tributaries, and a small portion of the Gala, commencing near Blindlee, to its junction with the Tweed. Its greatest length extended from Buckholmhill to Ettrick Pen, and its widest part lay between the source of Caddon water and the neighbourhood of Ashkirk. The following description of it applies to the olden time, when the Stewart line sat upon the Scottish throne. ' Ettricke Foreste is a fair foreste ; In it grows many a semelie tree — There's hart and hind, and dae and rae, And of a' wilde bestis grete plentie."

In 1416 a dispute arose "Betwixt the Religouse men, the Abbot and the Couet of Melrose on the ta. pte. and ane honorabil Sqwhair, John the Hage, lorde of Bemerside, on the tothir. pte. for Erlg of a certain pece of land within thair maynis of Redpeth, foment the maynis of Bemerside beforsaide, the qwhilk the said John claymis, suld be comon to bathe the forsaide places." I442 With a view to the settlement of this controversy, "Arche balde, Erie of Douglas, lorde of Galway and Anandail," wrote a letter addressed "til alle ye sonys of oure hali modir ye Kirk." This epistle w-as intended to promote " frenschippe, vnite, and gude concorde betwix ptyes discordand," and was "gywin vnder oure sealle at 'Gallowschel' the xvij. day of the moneth of Decemb, the yhere of G'ce Mi. CCCC. and the XVJ." As the old house of Gala was not erected at that date, it is surmised that the building, or tower, occupied by the Douglases, stood a few hundred yards more to the south, where the remains of an ancient building are still to be traced, the origin of which is unknown.

About 1408, Robert Hoppringle of Whitsome, in Berwick shire, obtained from Archibald, Earl of Douglas, a tack of the Forest steadings of Galashiels and Mossilee. Robert Hoppringle had been shield-bearer to James, the second Earl of Douglas, who was killed at the battle of Otterburn in 1388. Acting in the same capacity for Archibald, the fourth Earl, he accompanied him to France, where they both fell at the battle of Verneuil in 1424. After the forfeiture of the Douglases in 1445, the family continued kindly tenants under the Crown till 1566, when Queen Mary granted them the lands in feu. These tacks were for a limited period, but were usually granted to the same family, who were thus described in some of the old feu charters, — " Thay and their forbeiris hed been auld and kyndlie possessours and few rentallaris past memorie of man."

The village of Galashiels in those days would, in all probability, consist of a cluster of rude cottages, having no importance, consequently almost nothing is recorded in history concerning it. An entry in the Exchequer Rolls, dated 17th July, 1442, states that £5 was paid to Mr Nicolas, carpenter, for his expenses and those of his servitor, for riding at the command of the King to "Galowayscheelis" in the Forest regarding the carriage of the King's great bombard. For what particular reason a piece of J457 H63 ordnance of that nature was to be found at Galashiels must remain a matter for conjecture. Bombards for siege operations were introduced by James I., who, in 1430, brought from Flanders a great brass bombard which bore the name of the Lion. This piece of ordnance did duty at the siege of Roxburgh in 1460, where James II. met his death by the bursting of one of the cannons employed in the investment of that fortress.

In 1457 the original portion of Gala House was built by the wife of Robert, the second Hoppringill of Galashiels, having, it is said, this inscription cut on the doorway, — " Elspeth Dishington builted me In syn lye not; The things thou can'st not get Desyre not." There is a sculptured stone, which belonged to the old building, now built into the wall of the St John Street lodge, dated 1583, which may refer to the date of the first addition to the old peel by Andro Pringill, who had evidently not long survived its erection, as in the family burial place in Melrose Abbey the following epitaph is still to be seen, — " Heir leis ane honorabil man, Andro Pringill, feuar of Gallowschiels, quha decessit ye 28 of February, An. Dom. 1585." A second stone, dated 1612, built into the wall of the game keeper's dwelling, celebrated the chief addition to the house, other portions having been added subsequently; and it continued to be the home of the Scotts of Gala till 1876, when, in order to provide ground for the extension of the town, the new mansion house was erected.

The old building was acquired by Mr Andrew H. Herbertson, builder, who changed its name to Beechwood. Tradition affirms that when the kings of Scotland took their pleasure in the Forest, they occupied a hunting lodge at Galashiels, which was named the "Hunter's Ha'." Colour is given to the belief by a record, dated 1st February, 1463, when *5°3 *5*3 at "Galwschelis" the King confirmed to William de Douglas de Cluny and Lord of "Trakware," certain lands in the county of Peebles. Reference bearing upon this tradition is made by Tennant, in his description of a Scottish tour which he made in 1772, as follows, — " We have now crossed the water, and are in the county of Selkirk, or the Forest of Ettrick, which was formerlyreserved by the Scottish princes for the pleasure of the chase, and where they had small houses for the reception of their train.

One in Gala Shields, the adjoining village, still keeps the name of the ' Hunter's Hall.'" In 1467, at the Beltane court, the King is found remitting fines incurred by a smith, and other inhabitants of Galoschelis, Moysilee, and Blyndlee. In 1485 the "foglammys" of Galo schelis, Moysilee, Blyndlee, and Magalt were rented by Queen Margaret of Denmark, wife of James III., for pasturing sheep, with the right to have "schelis." In 1 503 the lands and manor of Galashiels formed part of the dower of Margaret Tudor, daughter of Henry VII. of England, and wife of James IV. of Scotland, in whose favour sasine was given by John Murray of Fawlohyll, Sheriff of Selkirk, on the soil of the said lordship, near the tower and manor of "Galloschelis." In 1513 occurred the disastrous battle of Flodden, " Where shivered was fair Scotland's spear, And broken was her shield."

This memorable defeat carried woe and lamentation into many a Border home. In that fatal fight David Pringle of Galashiels fell, along, it is said, with four of his sons, and, without doubt, a number of the villagers would lay down their lives in the same cause. Regarding this famous episode in Scottish history, local tradition is silent; but this was no ordinary occasion, and all the inhabitants of the village capable of bearing arms would play their part in that deadly struggle, where "The flowers o' the Forest were a' wede away."

Chapter II. The

pacification of the Borders and the extinction of the old-established practice of plundering occupied a large portion of the time of the Scottish Privy Council. The proclamations and obligations to abandon the old reiving habits, and prosecutions for relapsing into them, are worthy of being perused for the revelation they afford of the inner life of the Borders at this period. While there happened to be a truce between the two countries it was illegal for the Scottish Borderers to make raids into England. At the same time it was hardly politic to crush their offensive capacities, since, in the event of a war taking place, a powerful help was rendered by these same men. Old " Satchells " refers to them as being Somewhat unruly and very ill to tame, I would have none think that I call them thieves ; For if I did, it would be arrant lies ; For all Frontiers, and Borders, I observe, Wherever they ly, are Free-booters, And does the enemy much more harms, Than five thousand marshall-men in arms."

On the 14th of April, 1548, an incident happened in the locality which was of rare occurrence in Border history. George Hoppringill of Torwoodlee had to find security that he would underlie the law, being charged with affording treasonable assistance to "our ancient enemies of England," giving and taking assurance from them, and for other crimes contained in his letters. On the 5th June following, Robert Hoppringill of Blyndley and five others found the laird of Torwoodlee as surety that they would underlie the law at the next aire of Selkirk for the same offence, and also for keeping the house of Bukhame, belonging to James Hoppringill of Tynnes, and I564 pasturing the lands thereof. When the time of the trial arrived, they failed to appear, and their lands were granted to the said James Hoppringill.

In 1564, among those charged to attend Sir Walter Kerr of Cessford, warden of the middle marches, was "the guidman of Galloscheles," and again in 1572, he, along with others, amongst whom were George Hoppringill of Blyndlev, William Ker of Yair, and William Hoppringill of Torwodley, came under an obligation to rise against the King's enemies, and especially against the laird of Fairnyhirst and his accomplices, or the thieves within Liddisdaill, Ewesdaill, or Annandaill. Under the social conditions that prevailed at this period, the prosecution of trade or commerce would prove impossible, from the continuous proclamations which were issued, calling out the inhabitants to perform military service for shorter or longer periods as occasion required. The following is a specimen of a royal proclamation, — " Thair be oppin proclamatioun in our Soverane Lordis name and authoritie, command and charge all betwix thre scoir and sextene yeris, that they and ilk ane of thame, ' weil bodin in feir of weare,' with xx. days' victuallis meit my Lord Regentis Grace at the burgh of Peblis, and fra that to pas furthwart as they salbe commandit for persute and invasioun of the said theivis and disorderit people, and reduceing of thame to oure Soverane Lordis obedience, under the pane of tinsell of lyff, landis, and gudes."

Much has been said and written in connection with the wild and lawless mosstroopers residing on both sides of the Border, and the following narrative vividly depicts the insecure tenure of life and property, before law and order became established. The offence was committed in 1568, but it was thirty-eight years after wards ere the chief perpetrator was brought to justice.

"Jonne Ellote of Cappschaw, dilanit, accuses and persewit be George Hoppringill of Torwoidlie, James and Dauid Hoppringlis as oyes (grand children) with the remanent kyn and friendis of vmqle George Hoppringill of Torwoidlie, their guidscher (grandfather) of the crymes following, viz. : — "Forsamekill as the said Johnne Ellote of Cappschaw, Robert Elliot callet Mairtenis Hob, and Jok Airmestrang callit the Lardis jok, with their complices, with convocatioun of the hail clannis of the Airmestrangis, Ellotes, Batiesons, '57° Grahames and remenant clannis, duelland alsweill on the Inglis as Scottis bordouris, all cowmone theives, outlaws, and broken men, to the number of thre hundreth personis or thairby; ' bodin in feir of weir' (in military array), with jakis, speiris, steil-bonnetis, lance-stalffis, hagbutis, and pistolets, expreslie prohibeit to be borne, worne, vset, or schot with, be dyuerse our Actis of Parlament and Secreit Counsall, in the moneth of December, the yeir of God im Vc threscoir aucht yeiris, come fordward in hosteill maner, baith on horse and fute, to the place of Torwoidlie, and there vnder silence and clud of nycht, with foir-hammeris and geistis (beams) dang up the zeittis (gates) of the said place, and be force and violence enterit within the samyn : and tuk the said George (Hoppringill) furth of his bed, and conveyit him away as captiue and prissoner with them to the Skaldeneise, within the Sherifdome of Selkirk; and thair maist crewallie and vnmerciefullie murdreist and slew the said George; committing thairthrow nocht only crewall and abhominabill murthour and sluchter, bot also vsurpatioun of our Soverane Lordis authoritie vpone thame, in taking of the said George Hoppringll captiue but (without) power or commissioun, he being our Sovrane Lordis frie lege.

And siclyke, at the samen tyme, the said Johnne Ellotte and remenant personis, with thair complices, to the number above written, at the tyme foirsaid, brak up the haill kistis, cofferis, and lockfast houssis within the said place, and thiftiouslie staw, conceillit, resset, and away-tuik with thame, furth of the said place of Torwoidlie, and stabillis thairof, sevintene horsis pertening to the said George, price of the piece ourheid ane hundreth pundis money, togidder with the sowme of ane thouseand pundis of gold and monev furth of the said George Hoppringill's purse. Item. — Thre siluer peices, weyand fourscoir vnces of siluer or thairby, price of the vnce fourtie schillings. Item. — Tua dissane of siluer spvnes, ilk spvne weyand twa vnce of siluer, price of the vnce fourtie schillings. Togidder with the haill bedding, naiprie, clething, abuilzementis insicht and plenissing being within the said place, worth the sowme of fyve thousand merkis money of this realme, had and transpoirtit away with thame and desponit thairvpoun att thair pleasour.

The justice adudget the said Johnne to be denunceit our Souerane Lordis rebell, and put to the home ; and all his movabill guidis to be escheit and inbrocht to our Souerane Lordis vse, as fugitiue fra his hienis lawis, for the saidis crymes." In consequence of a deadly quarrel existing between the Hoppringills and Elliots, great trouble had already taken place, and greater appeared to be in store if some remedy was not pro vided. Reeardinothis feud, it is recorded that on December 7th, i57°> 1583 " There was ane day of law between the Hoppringles and the Elliots in Edinburgh, wherein the ane party set upon the other, and had not the town redd them, there had been great slaughter done that day." As was customary at that time, the Regent put them under a bond for their good behaviour for time coming.