Swallow Home; or, my first two years of married life spent in South Africa. By E. A. H

Front matter

SWALLOW HOME IX SOUTH AFRICA. forest cottage. SWALLOW HOME; OR, MY FIRST TWO YEARS OF MARRIED LIFE SPENT IN SOUTH AFRICA. EY E. A. H. LONDON : ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. 1889. 2>eoication. To the memory of my revered and loved Father I dedicate these simple jottings, fondly desirous that our children may never fail to remember the character oj Grandpapa Preston — how simply he lived, denying him self for the sake of his children's children. He set us all an example of contentment and humility j and God was pleased to spare his life into his ninety-first year. CONTENTS. CHATTER f'AG I. THE VOYAGE OUT : Our Start in the Danube - - - 3 Madeira ----- 9 A Serious Accident - - - 15 A German Jewess - - - - 20 II. GREETINGS ON LANDING : Forest Cottage - - - 25 Again on the Danube - - 29 Port Elizabeth - - - 32 East London - - - -38 III.

NEW AND STRANGE EXPERIENCES: Major Lee's - - - - 49 My First Waggon-Drive - - 54 Bedford - - - 60 IV. VISITING KAFFIR LOCATION, AND OTHER INCIDENTS : Somerset East - - - 73 Alarm at the River's Brink - - - 79 V. OUR OWN SURROUNDINGS : Lovedale - - - - - 89 Home Difficulties - - - - 97 Visit to King William's Town - - CONTEA'TS. X CHAPTER PACE VI. GOD'S DEALINGS WITH MORE THAN ONE : Debe Neck - - - - * 113 Merino Vale - - - - - 119 Taught of God - - - - 122 VII. CHRISTMAS-TIME : Short Visits to King William's Town and Peelton ,-...- - - 31 My First Colonial Christmas - - 137 Our New Year's Gift - - - 143 A Visitor from Lovedale ... 146 VIII. COUNTRY LIFE : Another Waggon-Ride - - 151 Shadings in Home Life - - 153 An Adventure - - - 157 IX. KING WILLIAM'S TOWN : Swallow Home ... - 161 Graham's Town - 167 God's Love-Tokens - - - - 170 The New Year - - - 176 Peril of Little Alice - - - - 178 X. CHRISTIAN SERVICE AND FRIENDSHIP : The Hospital Bedside - - - 183 A Truant Pin - - - - 188 Major Malan - - - - '93 A Longed-for Desire Granted - - 200 XI.

PORT ELIZABETH : Onward ! - - - - - 205 Visit to a Devoted Christian - - 213 Thoughts before Crossing the Ocean - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Forest Cottage - Frontispiece Table Bay - - - - - 41 Table Mountain (Devil's Peak) - - 135 Port Elizabeth - - - - - 210 Port Elizabeth - - - - -

Chapter I

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CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE OUT.

(?)ur gfctrf in ffje "pamtbe" On Thursday, April 25th, 1872, we sailed from the dear old English shores. A few friends stood waving their last adieus as the ship steamed out of Southampton docks, and they remained watching the vessel until she gradually passed out of sight. We stayed on the deck, pacing up and down, and watching too, until the cold sent us unwillingly down to our cabin. I was then a prisoner for two days, but 1 — SO UTH A FRICA . 4 after that time was able to look up and think of visiting the ladies' saloon, for up to the present I had nearly forgotten our fellow-voyagers. Feeling somewhat strange, I took the nearest vacant seat. The lady to whom I first spoke proved a valuable friend to me throughout the voyage, and my readers will be very interested in learning, by-and by, that she is also known to many of them.

She had been listening to some children, and admiring their singing, and she asked me whether I had heard them. They had been singing the " Old, Old Story," the music of which had recently been pub lished. I discovered, later on in our ac quaintance, a further reason for her being so much interested in the hymn and tune. The following day was Sunday, and again I was sitting beside my new-found friend. This time we were on the deck. My thoughts had flown to my home, and I was feeling somewhat sad. I had an inward yearning for my church, and a great longing to hear again the words of love and warning which had so often been spoken by my beloved rector, Reverend Hay Chapman. Some of my musings were expressed aloud, and, to my surprise, Miss H knew the clergyman to whom I have just alluded, and even, some years back, had been well acquainted with his wife.

This warmed my heart. That first Sunday morning at sea ! It comes before me now as vividly as if it were the experience of the present moment. The sun was shining, and we steamed along pleasantly. My friend Miss H regretfully told me that the captain had said there would be no service that morning, because several of the passengers were still too unwell to attend. With this decision she did not seem at all to agree. It did not, however, hinder some of us making good use of our time that morning. Presently I noticed a new face. As this gentleman came on deck I watched him, and, instead of sitting on the seats, he lay down at full length on the clean deck itself, a little way from us, and then round him gathered first one and then another of his own children. This was a new sight to me, and one which I felt should teach me not to fear to show my colours, for with his Bible by his side, regardless of many gazers, he taught his happy listeners.

The mother of these dear children was an Italian lady, with the eyes that are characteristic of her nation. They were quite a large family — six children, besides their young governess and two nurses. Captain M (the gentleman of whom I have been speaking) had given up his position in the army, and accepted a grant of land in Natal instead, hoping by that means to avoid separation from his family. My heart heaves a sigh when I think of all the sore trials which he had to face as time went on. But this is taking me away from the time of our first starting in life. Strangely enough, there were sailing in the Danube with us no fewer than four young married couples, my husband and I making the fifth. Alter the Sunday there came a rather trying time ; we were sailing through the Bay of Biscay, and we had the sea very rough.

How I reckoned upon the time when our passage would come to an end ! I used anxiously to inquire of the stewardess when she thought we should be out of the Bay. At last we were out of the Bay, and one and another talked of the prospect of reaching land, and great was my surprise and pleasure when, on the sixth evening after we had started, we found ourselves anchored at Madeira. Then the gun was fired, and to our joy there was a dead calm, and we were to have no more tossing for a few hours. It was now evening, and we could per fectly see the outline of the island from the lights on land, which seemed widely scattered, and were shining in different directions. I did not at all anticipate, at this time, the treat that awaited me the next morning. But that day's narrative must be reserved for my next jottings.

To the great delight of the passengers, it was decided that we were to remain long enough to enable us to visit Madeira. First, however, came a good night's rest. That evening I could go with comfort to my berth, and even enjoy the soft rippling sound of the water. 2{Ta6eira. It happened the next morning that we found ourselves again face to face with our new friend Miss H , and we soon planned to go on shore together. Boats of all sizes, rowed by the natives, were in attendance. We chose a small one, and the man speedily rowed us to the beach. Then we were beset with beggars, these poor people evidently hoping that when fresh comers make their appearance they will become the objects of their com passion. Such a pitiable sight are these creatures — a glance suffices to reveal how wretched they are ; but, alas !

(however kindly one might feel towards them) we seemed unable to bring any light into their sad faces, because of the impossibility of either party understanding the other ; they were only able to gabble in their own patois. It almost made me shudder to see these suffering beggars, and feel how their state contrasted with my own happy and excited feelings at the time. We had left our ship at seven o'clock in the morning, and being up and away so early was quite a new experience to me. In comparing notes afterwards, I was led to think that my husband and I spent a much happier time on the island than some of our fellow-vovagers did. First, I must explain that Madeira has a very different appearance to that of any of our English seaports. Instead of our smooth, wide streets and broad pavements, the roads in Madeira are very stony and steep.

To walk far on foot up the hills is almost out of the question, and therefore, for the convenience of visitors who have but an hour or two to spare, a sledge stands waiting, drawn by oxen, with seats arranged inside, to carry any who may wish to go up one of the precipitous inclines. This conveyance is quite an attraction to visitors, because it differs from anything to be seen in England. Many, therefore, like to make the adventure. Of course, from the heights one can get a fine view, as a further reward for making the ascent. Very demurely, but surely, do these new travelling companions make their way up ; but when they have reached the top their work comes to an end, and they are taken out of harness. But what then becomes of the sledge and its freight ? When thus left, the passengers have to descend in the sledge alone, and this is accomplished by one sudden and dreadful rush.

Meanwhile, my husband and I saun tered along slowly. I found a special attraction in the lovely flowers of the island, and if I had gone with the ex cursion party I certainly should not have been able to enjoy them as I did. They looked so beautiful ; it was as if the streets were turned into one long conservatory. It was the upland road into which we had turned, and the flowers were merely growing outside the different residences, but whiffs of their sweetness scented the whole atmosphere. On our way back a rather picturesque building attracted our attention. It was kept by natives. Mounting some steps, we walked into a room, where we found some of them busily employed selling their own handiwork of snow white flowers, ingeniously made out of feathers. They looked very pretty as they lay strewn on a long counter, and my readers will understand what pleasure it gave us that morning to see something to buy which would be valued, and yet small enough to send home by post to our loved ones left behind.

One or two of these flowers I kept myself for some years as a reminder of my early married days. After making our purchases and getting SWALLOW HOME IN SOUTH AFRICA. 14 into the street below, we felt the heat greatly. Only the 2nd of May, and the heat getting almost more than we could bear, though it was but nine .o'clock in the morning ! The last sight which caught our eye before leaving the island was a happy party of riders, just starting for a delightful day's outing over the mountains. We had now to go on board, as the time allowed by our captain had nearly expired. A rowing-boat full of people was about being pushed off from the shore, when we had just time to jump in. I think I must have been rather preoccupied, for I had no idea who all the passengers were, until my husband whispered to me that they all belonged to our steamer.

The person who sat next to me was a German lady, a Jewess. I so well remember her as she turned to make some passing remarks, and I liked her face and simple manner. I mention her because she was one of our fellow-passengers with whom we afterwards had several interesting talks. There were several German Jewesses going out with us to the Colony. Two young Jewesses shared the cabin with Miss H . It was rather trying for her. Oh ! how her heart yearned over them, and how she longed that the scales might be removed from their eyes, even before the time came for bidding them adieu ! Jl serious Jlcci&enf. Captain M , Miss H , ourselves, with another or two, had a little meeting each week for Bible-reading, at the end of the saloon. SWALLO W HOME IN SOUTH AFRICA. The Sunday evenings were a great pleasure to us.

We went to the fore castle of the steamer, my husband speaking the first time. The following two weeks Captain M addressed the pas sengers in their own saloon. The first night he told us what it was that led him to give his heart to the Lord. How I en joyed listening! For years, he said, nothing seemed to touch him — no words, no reading. At last, one thing was brought home to him — he felt he could not escape from it — and that was, the "Second Coming of our Lord." Thus it was that he was led to speak very much of the Lord's " Second Advent." He was soon to have a great trial of faith and submission. The incident oc curred about the middle of our passage. One evening, when we were just seated at our six o'clock dinner, one of the stewards was heard to say, " A child has fallen down the hold !"

This was terrible news, and those who were parents amongst us got up from the table in haste, but none more swiftly than Captain M . He reached the hold first, and then, whom had he handed to him by one of the crew but his own dear little girl, whose sixth birth day we had only two days before been keeping ! Grace, with her brothers and sisters, and some other little playfellows, were having a good game on deck ; but, sad to say, the opening into the hold had been left uncovered. As a protection from the heat, a large sail had been hoisted, and it was hanging from the mast down to the deck, and this sail con cealed from the children the dangerous spot. This dear child fell not only through SWALLCHV HOME IN SOUTH AFRICA. the first, but even down into the second hold, striking her head severely against the sharp corner of some ironwork as she fell.

Her father carried his treasure to his cabin, for the child was stunned by the fall. On account of our sitting at the further end of the saloon, we did not at first hear of the accident. It was not possible to tell at first how great was the injury that had been done : it seemed wonderful, after such a fall, that the precious life was spared. We hardly knew what to say, fearing the parents would be in great distress. After dinner we both went to find them. They were on deck, as their nurse was then taking charge of their little one in the cabin. Captain M was leaning ptffei the side of the ship ; his quiet bearing and calm submission astonished us, and settle: others as well. Not one murmur was heard to escape from his lips during the remainder of the time we spent together. Humility seemed rooted in him, and it constantly shone out in his daily life.

In after-years the remembrance of his conduct at this time used to give us joy whenever we mentioned him. My husband went and spoke to his poor dear wife, and I am glad to say his words proved a real com fort to her. The recovery of their child, Grace, was marvellous. Her father re mained up '"with her the first night, Miss H at times sharing the watch, in order to relieve Captain M . His wife being a sufferer nearly all the voyage, such a friend's assistance was the more acceptable. 2 Jl German geœess. We had a most favourable time at sea, no storms whatever. I had the expecta tion of a visit to friends when we reached Cape Town. My husband's sister was living not far from there, and I knew that she had a beautiful nest for her home. It was a great help to me that I had my ex pected stay with her to think of during the monotony of life at sea ; and this visit was a pleasant break in upon our voyage, which did not terminate at Cape Town.

The German Jewess whom I have already referred to was one who was sadly tried by the voyage. I was, on the whole, a good sailor. She used to talk to me of what she had to encounter in the Colony. This was the second time of her coming out. When she first left her home — then a bride — she had a sore parting with her parents, as she had been a devoted daughter. Ten days after reaching Cape Town she received her first letter, which contained the bitter tidings of her dear father's death. From this shock she seemed never really to have recovered. This personal grief I merely name now to show what heavy afflictions some have to pass through. We think at times ours are the greatest sorrows ; but if we get into conversation with others, we hear with surprise what trials they have had to bear, and often find they have been heavier than our own.

She could not help opening her heart to me about her difficulties with the Kaffir servants. I learned that the post her husband occupied was in the interior of the Colony, where they were wholly dependent on Kaffir help. With my sanguine hopes, I thought I should escape some of these household annoyances which she had met with ; but it was not long before my turn came. Poor thing ! she touchingly told me that for this second journey her husband had started to take his voyage alone, leaving her with her mother ; but at the end of a week they both had written to each other, saying that they could not bear the parting, and so she at once set out to join him. This Jewess was sitting by us that even ing when we were nearing Cape Town. All the passengers were on deck, but for some reason there was not the same interest in arriving there as in the touching at Madeira ; yet I was very glad when, the next morning, the gun was again fired, announcing our safe arrival. Thus the first part of our voyage was completed in twenty-six days.

CHAPTER II. Greetings on landing

CHAPTER II. PLUMSTEAD.

forest postage. After breakfast we made preparation for our short leave, and very pleased we both were to bid adieu to the Danube for the few days that were allowed us on shore. The drive from the water-side to the town I thought very disappointing. It is about a mile along a straight road, with neither an attractive house nor a pleasant field, that I can remember. The town also has very little beauty. We had some shopping to do, and then, to my WALLO W HOME IN SOUTH AFRICA. great joy, I found myself once again in a railway train ! It is a very pretty line of country from Cape Town to Wynberg, quite in the English style. We passed charming residences with their lovely gardens, and, as it was the eve of the Cape spring, the country was breaking out into its fulness of leaf and flower. Wynberg was the station we stopped at, and then, after a short distance, some of the way through an avenue of trees, we turned up our sister's drive.

Such a hearty reception was awaiting us ! Now all the peculiarities of real Cape life lay before me. The children were sent out to gather for their new aunt lovely bunches of wild-flowers, and I well remember the special supply of " plumbago " — a shrub with lovely soft-tinted, jessamine-like bunches of flowers, of light lilac colouring. Their uncle was delighted to see the little ones again — four dear children. Maud, the eldest, a girl of seven, was a sweet, gentle-looking child, a contrast to her merry younger sister, Adelaide. The youngest, a thorough boy, with fair curly hair, was running about in full spirits, notwithstanding the impedi ment of one of his arms being all the time in a sling. This was in consequence of a fall a few days previously, which dislocated his shoulder. This was my husband's fifth voyage across the ocean, so very little was new to him ; but now he had the pleasure of taking me about, showing me the parts he knew so well.

With the excep tion of visiting Cape Town one day, we S\\ r ALLO W HOME W SOUTH AFRICA. remained all the time at Plumstead. from the Tuesday until the Friday. Mrs. Watermeyer's house stands in a most picturesque spot, close to a forest of firs. A verandah in front of the house shades the two sitting-rooms. The bedroom set apart for their guests I very much admired. There was nothing costly about it, and yet it had such a homely air, making dusty voyagers like ourselves feel rested at once. This room, with slanting roof and rustic lattice windows, over looked the garden and the forest. The pretty bed, with white hangings, looked very refreshing after the scanty comforts of our cabin ; and the clean white boards appearing beyond the carpet reminded me that I was in a hot country. My sister Julia shared in the pleasure OjP taking me to see their friends, and accompanied us out, her conversation often reassuring me about my future.

Here we finished our second posting of letters to our dear ones at home, and in these letters we were able to cheer them with the assurance that we were no longer amongst strangers. The morning we had to leave Forest Cottage our sister came with us to Cape Town to see us off. She then gave us her wedding present — such a useful one — and it long continued to remind us of all her love : it was a damask dining-room tablecloth. We then went to the Botanical Gardens, and purchased seeds for planting on our estate in British Kaffraria. Jlgctin on ff)c " ponnbe." As she came on board the Danube with us, we were able to introduce her to Mrs. M , in whom she felt much interested ; and then she saw, sitting on one of the seats, the little sufferer Grace, now as happy as any of the other children. Parting from our sister, we had to bring our minds to face the trials of shipboard life for another two nights, before our next break, which was to be at Port Elizabeth.

I felt the trial of the rough passage (for this is invariably a rough coast), and whilst ill in my cabin my heart was somewhat downcast ; for the refreshing of the past few days was like " a tale that is told," not to be repeated in haste. As I lay thinking, who should come in, as a messenger of cheer, but Miss H ! The next day I was up again, but I found I had been missed by more than one of my fellow-passengers, as a smile of greeting came across the saloon table when the meal-time came round and found me in my usual place. A nice chat we had on deck, as we paced up and down one evening with Miss H . She was so glad to tell us about her time in Cape Town. She stayed at the " Sisters' Home," established there for mission work. This she greatly enjoyed. She had met with a very warm welcome.

The devoted life of the inmates strengthened her faith, and I can almost hear her now, saying with soft and rather emphasized tone, " What especially struck me in their home meetings was their evening gathering, when they made it a rule after their prayer not to speak again." So the blessing gained could not be forfeited by even a passing word ; this was, she said, " such a help." Some may like to know what mission was calling this friend out to the Colony. She was leaving behind her, like myself, an aged father. Her home was in London. She was journeying much farther inland than we were, some hundreds of miles higher, to Bloemfontein, in the Orange Free State. She was unselfishly going all this immense way in order to see how she could best help a brother of hers, who, from his letters, she feared was very ill.

Her great wish was, if possible, to bring him home with her, but whether she did carry out her project (all alone as she was) remains for me to tell by-and-by. Now the moment had come for her to leave the Danube, and we shall have to lose sight of her for the present. ■g»orf §Ii3at>ctb. Anchored at Port Elizabeth, the mail bags (for they are the first things attended to on touching at any port) were handed over swiftly into the little rowing boat which had been waiting our arrival, and lay alongside our steamer. Then the captain took his leave in one of the ship's boats, launched from the deck. He appeared to be in as much haste to get on shore as the passengers, having to give in his report of the passage and the crew. He kindly took Miss H in charge, in order to save her time as well as trouble.

After landing, we went to the nearest hotel. There we met with a lady and gentleman who had taken their passage in our steamer from Cape Town. The husband was very delicate. Miss H , before parting, had mentioned them to us, and told us of the trial of sickness which the young wife had recently suffered at Cape Town. She had her baby with SWALLO W HOME IN SO UTH A ERICA . her, and the nurse. When the wee one was born, the mother was lying ill in one room, and her husband ill in another, having broken a bloodvessel. It was a great distress to her that she was unable to get to him. I thought, Alas ! a sad be ginning of her early married life ! Instead of remaining at the somewhat dismal hotel, we started off to see some friends of my husband's. It was a tiring walk up a dusty hill. Unfortunately, I was wearing a thick serge dress, which was quite unsuitable for the day, and I felt the heat much more than I liked.

Most of the residences in Port Elizabeth are on the hill, and amongst them the one we were to visit. A kindly reception awaited us. The dear mother could not come downstairs, for she had been suffering from an attack of bron- GREETINGS ON LANDIAG. 35 chitis ; but we were able to go and sit with her in her own room. She had a lovable face, and her pretty white curls looked so nice ; and, what with watching her and our cosy chat, all my home recollections seemed freshly stirred up. After dinner I remained, whilst A went out to look for rooms. A lady, coming in to see Mrs. Andrews before he left, and hearing him say, " I must go and fix on a spot,' on returning to the drawing-room where I was sitting (for she had gone back to her house), came up to me, and said that she and her sister would be very pleased to receive us, if he did not succeed in finding a retreat.

This unexpected hospitality was apleasant greeting to give to my husband on his return from his hot walk, and, to our great comfort, we had but a few steps to go. 3—2 SWALLOW HOME IN SOUTH AFRICA. 36 Before tea-time we parted from the kind ones who first welcomed us. It was not Mrs. H- 's own house, but she and her sister were taking charge of it during the absence of a married sister, who, with her husband, was then in England. Although their home surroundings might have made them unmindful of the wants of others, it was just the contrary to that, and we had much oneness of heart with these kind sisters. They told us about the great difficulties which their parents had had to encounter when they first came to the Cape. Their father had been appointed Colonial chaplain to this port, where he faithfully laboured for thirty-nine years — till God took him.