Travels in Europe, Asia Minor, and Arabia

Front matter

J Griffiths MB, TRAVELS IN EUROPE, ASIA MINOR, AND ARABIA. BY J. GRIFFITHS, M. D. -IEIHBER OF THE ROYAL MEDICAL SOCIETY OF EDINBURGH, AND OF -SEVERAL FOREIGN LITERARY SOCIETIES. LONDON: .JOINTED FOR T. CADELL AND W. DAVIESJ AND PETER HILL, EDINBURGH; -2b 3Io _r. aroton, €Btn6urfij. 1805. TO HER SERENE HIGHNESS, THE MARGRAVINE OF BRANDENBURGH, ANSPACH, AND BARUTH, PRINCESS BERKELEY, &c. S-c. &c. JL o me, Madam, it very naturally occurred, that the homage of dedicating the following pages could to no one, with so much propriety, be offered as to your Serene Highness, whose extensive travels have been marked with circumstances of uncommon interest ; and by those who can appreciate the various elegant accom plishments which are the peculiar attributes of your Serene Highn.ss, it will be thought an honorable approval of my labors that they are sanctioned by such distinguished talents : But the flattering permission, which with so much grace and condescension has been VI granted to me, is attributable only, I fear, to that anxious desire of fostering and promoting literary in quiry, which your Serene Highness is on all occa sions inclined to manifest.

It is, however, Madam, highly gratifying to me to appear as an example of a disposition so truly, worthy your Serene Highness's enlightened mi_d; and I shall ever feel grateful for the favorable opportunity afforded me of publicly expressing those sentiments of high respect and admiration with which I have the honor to be. ■Madam, Your Serene Highnesses Most -devoted and most humble Servant, J. GRIFFITHS.

Preface

. In submitting the following pages to the tribunal ofthe Public, a few previous observations may be requisite, not only to mode rate any high expectations that might be formed from the title which I have been obliged to prefix to the work (since in a title the precise route only of a traveller cannot be expressed), but also to solicit some degree of indulgence, by pointing out, that the nature of my travels, through the countries mentioned in this Volume, did not admit of such continued and elaborate investi-1 gation of them, or the manners of their inhabitants, as to enable me to present a regular and methodical history of either. In the rapidity of pursuit, I fear I have frequently overlooked those proofs which might have thrown a new and important light on subjects already treated of, with more or less accuracy, by literary pens ; and from a necessitated adoption of the means and opportunities of proceeding towards the places of my destination, I have as frequently been compelled to abandon, prema turely and unexamined, even those objects which had not escaped my notice.

I am well aware, that in the scientific works of many authors _ who have published accounts of Italy and Turkey, infinitely mere information is to be obtained than the confined circle of my observation eeuld furnish ; but I trust it will be held in remembrance, that mine are merely the sentiments of a traveller faithfully describing such things as he saw, the scenes in which he participated, and offering to the reader those reflections which resulted from the impressions he received : Not the labors of an historian, tracing through all their gradationsthe va- ... rious civil and political connections ot an empire ; or patiently and carefully elucidating every circumstance that might tend to establish the opinion of its magnificence, or to expose its inferiority. I venture to persuade myself that no apology will be required for having confined to a few pages, my remarks on Italy.

It is true, I could have dwelt with pleasure upon the invaluable private spe cimens of the arts to which I was favored with familiar access ; but descriptions of this kind are already too numerous. The de tails of churches and convents, of pictures and statues, are so mi nute and so multiplied, that little new was left for sohasty a gleaner as myself to collect ; and I have therefore endeavoured to avoid the reproach of repetition and sameness to which tra vellers are so generally exposed. If the animadversions upon the Turks should be thought to savour of petulance, unfavorable prejudices, or exaggeration ; or if they should appear contradictory to those authors of eminence who praise their urbanity, their wit, their talents, and their hospitality — let me be allowed to state, that I travelled through great part of the Ottomaun dominions in the humble disguise of a poor Greek ; not under the protection of Janissaries^ the influence of ambassadors, or the authority of a Firmaun *.

I have seen Turks of all ranks and of all manners, undisguised by the etiquette of high life, divested of fear from superior power, and uninfluenced by the caution of self-interest ; I have associated with officers in eminent stations at the Porte, and joined a pedestrian party of menial servants ; and I have found the Turk every where a Turk. Their civilities are offered with the insult of superiority ; their protection granted under an in junction of their law, not on account of any one principle of humanity or kindness to the keupegf they succour ; and their own * Passport, or order, sealed by the Grand Signior, to which great respect is paid in most parts ofthe Turkish dominions. t Keupeg signifies dog, and is a term very generally bestowed upon Chris t_Hft, h X comfort or convenience was never sacrificed, on the score of ho* spitality,, in favor of an infidel *'.

With respect to the variations which I have thought necessary to make in the usual orthography of those words derived* from the Persian or Turkish languages, I beg leave to observe that I have been actuated by no desire of aiming at singularity. \ appeared to me an act of propriety to make the English pro nunciation of those words correspond as much as possible with that of the original language, and to rescue this pronunciation from the confusion which invariably occurs, when the letters employed must, to convey any idea ofthe word, be pronounced: conformably to the manner of foreigners. Tiros, the words, Sultaun, Ottomaun; Mussulmaun; Effendee, Pa shah, Bashee, Capigee, Mustaphah, pronounced as they are written, convey the precise sound of the same words in the Turkish language ; but the English reader must be exposed to an improper pronunciation, when an author, adopting the foreign sound of the vowels, writes them, Sultan, Ottoman, Mussulman, Effendi, Pacha, Bachi, Capidgi, Mustapha.. * Ghour or infidel, equally reproachful with keupeg, is the appellation by which they do not hesitate to distinguish a Christian even in conversation with him. _r I am conscious, however, of the difficulty, or, indeed, im possibility, of establishing, by zvriting, any positive mode of general pronunciation.

Writing cannot convey the delicate in flections of voice ; and I have found myself compelled, in some instances, to depart from the system which I wished to adopt. The word Khan I have not written Khaun, because it appeared to me that the pronunciation of the vowel was much shorter than in the word Sultan, where it is particularly long ; and yet it is not a short a as in the English word man, so that I know not how to express it. In the word caravansera I have, purposely omitted a final _, because the last a is never pronounced long : and indeed this word may be written indifferently caravanserai .or caravansera — serai, or sera, signifying a place or building for .any particular purpose, though generally used to designate a palace. — But in all cases, where I have thought I could give the true pronunciation of a foreign word in English (the names of coun tries excepted), I have not hesitated to depart from the ortho graphy of preceding authors, and hope I shall be excused for such deviations.

The countries referred to in the present Volume form a very small portion of those which I have visited ; and detained me, com paratively speaking, a very short time : but they form the first link of the chain of observation, which I have made upon men and governments, and lead me naturally to those regions where . a residence of many years, and opportunities peculiarly favor able, allowed me to extend its limits. It is in the various lati tudes oi' India that I have principally travelled, and to the complicated interests of that magnificent country, that I have principally devoted my humble talents for investigation. So arduous an attempt, however, as to render worthy of the public eye, an analysis and description of the principles of its inter nal government ; the springs which actuate the prodigious ma chine by which this internal government is adapted to the secu rity and advantage of England, and, at the same time, to the amelioration of the political existence of the natives, who have already, or who may hereafter become, subservient to British authority; — to discuss the Hindu and Mussulmaun laws, still allowed to subsist notwithstanding the establishment of English courts of justice ; — to animadvert on the religions and religious prejudices of the multiplied casts and sects ; — to elucidate their customs, manners, and habits, together with the actual state of their arts and manufactures ; — such an attempt, I must be per mitted to repeat, is of too serious a nature for me to engage in, without first endeavouring to obtain a kind of sanction to my labors, by ascertaining that at least no unfavorable decision has been pronounced against my present undertaking.

For this decision, therefore, I shall wait with an anxiety which originates in a due respect for the public judgment. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Page 1. Introduction — Departure from Gravesend — Arrival at Exmoutli— Extortion and Obstinacy of a Pilot — Straits of Gibraltar — Island of Alboran — Nice — Genoa — Leghorn — Passage on the Arno — Pisa — Return to Leghorn — Hospitals in Italy. CHAP. n. Page 33. Departure from Leghorn to Smyrna — Prospect of Sicily — Etna — Faro of Messina — Scylla and Charybdis — Sicily — Archipelago— Sclavonian Pirate — Scio — Harbour in Mitylene— Gulph of Smyrna — Armenian and Jew Brokers— Smyrna. CHAP. III. Page 52. Departure from Smyrna— -Turkish Boat — Temnos — Funeral in a Mussulmaun Village — Dardanelles — Superstition of the Turkish Sailors — Port of Kiemed — Constantinople- — Ka'iks — Seraglio — Ceremonials attending the Introduction of the French Ambassador. CHAP. IV. Page 67. Remarks upon the Introduction of French Officers into the Turkish Military Service — Sancta Sophia — Sultaun Solymaun's Mosque— Atmeidaun — Burnt Pillar — Castle of Seven Towers — Aqueduct of Valens — Houses of Constantinople— Conflagrations.

CHAP. V. Page 84. Bazars — Bezesten — Censure upon Turkish Shopkeepers palliated — . Tespee—Use of Opium — Female Ornaments and Dress— Evening Recreations in the Neighbourhood of the Towns'— Public Baths- Turkish Carriages for Females. CHAP. VL Page 9.3.- 'SMrkish Visits — Smoking— Scutari —Dervishes-— Pera— Tan dour — Medresseh. r CHAP. VII. Page 100 ■ ' Reflections on the Insults t» which Jews are exposed— Bostangee Ba slice's disgraceful Conduct to a Party of Greek Ladies — Ghumbaragee Bashee — General John Morrison — Meeting of the Effendee, CH.^P. VIIE Page no. Keathana — Coffee-houses— Turkish Dinners — Yaourt — Kaimak — Pek mez — Public Scribes — Music — Exercises — Porters — Dogs. CHAP. IX. Page 120, Commerce — Political Situation ofthe Greeks CHAP. X. Page i«_i. Religion — Sangiac Schereeff, and other Relics — Anecdote of Ibrahim the Second — Funeral Ceremonies — Plague.

CHAP. XL Page 149- Government, and Members who compose it. — Muftee and Ulemah — Reflections on the present State of the Country— Vizeer Azent-*- Muftee — Cazee-Askeer — Cadees-^Reis Effendee., CHAP. XII. Page i60y Military — Navy-^Revenue. CHAP. XIII. Page 189. Wakfs. CHAP. Page 206. Departure from Constantinople — Death of a Sailor on Board the Boat — Island of Avezza—Capo, or Principal Inhabitant— Troad. CHAP. XV. Page 227. Departure from the Dardanelles — Tenedos — Mitylene — Storm — Ipsora —Arrival at Scio. CHAP. XVI. Page 236. Scio — Mastic — Beauty of the Ladies — Greek Nobility — Language — Departure from Scio — Gulph of Smyrna — Excursion in an open Boat — Smyrna — Arrangements previous to Departure. CHAP. XVII. Page 247- Departure from Smyrna — Description of the Country — Caravanserai — Formation of a Caravan — Caravan Bashee — Fountains — Arrival at Sort — Tmolus — Pactolus — Ruins of the Palace of Crœsus — Historical Sketch of Sardis.

CHAP. XVIII. Page 260. j Departure from Sardis — AUah-slteer — Apkiom-kararhissar — Dialogue with the Caravan Bashee — Caravan attached by Banditti- Extortion ofthe Author's Turkish Companions^ d ( • xviii )" CHAP. XIX. Page 276; Koniah— Grand Mosque of the Mewlewah Dervishes— Ceremoniesos' Initiation— Rufayee Dervishes — Their Religious Ceremonies: CHAP. XX: Page 288. Departure from Koniah — Codes Lycaonum — Plain of singular Appearance — Turcomauns — Visit of a Greek Bishop- — Capagee Bashee and Retinue — Ereklee — An Instance of Theft — Cilicia — Curious Well — Mountains of Taurus — Cydnus Adana — Conduct of a Cadee — Sarus—Cardhfash — Departure from Asia Minor. CHAP. XXI. Page 309. Arrival on the Coast of Syria — Adventure there — Suediah^-Observations respecting Syria — Kurds — Antioch — Meeting with an English Traveller CHAP. XXIL Page 321.

Historical Sketch and Description of Antioch— Singular Customs at Martavaun — Ansarians. CHAP. XXIIL Page 332. Departure from Martavaun — Aleppo— Description of an English Merchant' 's House — Concerts at the Coffee-houses— Puppet-show? ' — Gardens — Whimsical Anecdote — Usual Mode of passing the Day — Castle — Caloyers — Commerce and Government. CHAP. XXIV. Page 346. Occurrences at Aleppo — Departure with a Caravan destined to Bussorah — Desart. The following Errata, which relate principally to proper names, have escapad observation, from the Author not having had it in his power to superintend the cor rection of the press.

Page line 34 21 After to add the 10 14 In the words less attached, as it were, insert a comma at the word less 150 10 For dedicated read delegated 219 17 After which add it, and dele the parenthesis IS After elevation insert a semicolon 19 After hill add were 220 22 For Ib us read Ilus 221 11 For ever read even 224 1 For Kazak read Karak 226 6 For Here read Now 237 16 For usually read used 253 5 For halted read travelled 261 19 For conscious read conscientious 269 3 For strong read stony 279 3 For _Tæj or Key read .__.& o;- Neh 280 6 For Ahschdee read Aschdgee 2S3 15 For Jahallah Jah Hoo read Tahallah Tah Hoo 293 8 For faoitrt read Yaourt 305 13 For complaints read complainants 326 In the Note, for Z* read Z_ 328 Last line but two, for o/" read at 329 15 For Kadmonsia read Kadmousia 338 11 For Funghee read Fringhee 343 11 For //_? read /£«.- 347 8 For Eizerum read Frzerum 352 11 For prevents read prevent 365 In the Note, for prisoners read poisonous 367 4 For sunset read sunrise 367 Last line, for Surmek read Surmeh ******** fy.l CmJ.lt * »'__«_. /***«. _T *» **_ 'J*** TRAVELS IN" EUROPE, ASIA MINOR, AND A R A K I A. TRAVELS IN EUROPE, ASIA MINOR* AND ARABIA.

CHAPTER I.