St. Petersburgh. A journal of travels to and from that capital, through Flanders, the Rhenish Provinces, Prussia, Russia, Poland, Silesia, Saxony, the Federated States of Germany, and France

Front matter

ST. PETERSBURGH. A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS TO AND FROM THAT CAPITAL ; THROUGH FLANDERS, THE RHENISH PROVINCES, PRUSSIA, RUSSIA, POLAND, SILESIA, SAXONY, THE FEDERATED STATES OF GERMANY, AND FRANCE BY A. B. GRANVILLE, M.D.; F.R.S.; F.L.S.; M.R.I.; F.G.S.; & M.R.A.S. Physician in Ordinary to H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence, Physician -Accoucheur to the Westminster General Dispensary, and to the Benevolent Lying-in Institution; Principal Physician to the Royal Metropolitan Infirmary for Sick Children; Hon. Member of the Royal Academy of Medicine of Madrid; Corresp. Member of the Imperial Academy of Sciences of St. Petersburgh, and Hon. Member of the Imperial Medico-Chirurgical Academy of the same town ; Foreign Associate of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Naples., Member ofthe Physico-Mathematical Class of the Royal Academy of Sciences of Turin ; Corresp.

Member of the Medico-Chirurgical Society of Berlin; and Ordinary Member of the Natural History Society of Halle; Corresp. Member of the Prussian Physical Society of Bonn; of the Philomathic and Philotechnic Societies, and the Society Medicate <T Emulation of Paris ; of the Philosophical and Literary Society of Manchester; ofthe Georgojili of Florence; of the Medical and Scientific Societies of Marseilles, Florence, Pistoja, Val d'Arno, Padua, Venice, &c; and Member ofthe Royal College of Physicians in London. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, NEW BURLINGTON .STREET. 1828. LONDON : PRINTED BY S. AND R. BENTLEV, Dorset Sired, Fleet Street, CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. PART SECOND. (continued.) PICTURE OF ST. PETERSBURGH.

CHAPTER V.

Chapter I. Poland

Winter Roads. — Frights and Accidents. — Delays. — Freezing of the Dwina. — State of the Towns in the Government of Wilna Post Houses. — We cast off our Sledges. — The Jews. — Roads to the Russian Frontiers.— Kovno Custom-house and curious i egulation respecting money Cross ing the Niemen. — Bonaparte and the Sinister Omen Frontiers ofthe Kingdom of Poland — Appearance of the Country. — State of its Agricul ture. — A French soldier's opinion of Poland. — An Apologv for Grumblers. — Line of Retreat of the French Army — Napoleon at Lomza. — Ostrolenza and Pultusk. — Approach to Warsaw. — More Annoyances, Political Fiscal, Financial, and Medical. — Crossing the Vistula. — Hotel de F Europe. — General Appearance of Warsaw. — The Streets, Squares, Churches, and Palaces — Situation of the Town Prague. — Parallel between Warsaw and St. Petersburgh. — The Poles. — The Lieutenant du Roi Military Pa rade — Introduction to the Grand-duke Constantine His personal appear ance. — His menage and mode of living.' — Conduct of the King of Poland and Constantine towards the Poles in matters of Civil Administration. Popularity of the Grand-duke with the Army. — General Fanshawe The Polish Army page 525_550.

Chapter II

WAItSAW. The Zameck — Numerous and valuable Paintings, by Canaletti. The Ball-room — The Presentation Hall.— Bacciarelli. — The old Sovereigns of Poland.— The Hall of Assembly for the Senate and the Diet Radicals in the Diet.— Polish Legislators.— Peut-on faire une Nation de la Pologne ? CONTENTS. XI — Liberty of Speech in doors. — Present Government of Poland. — The Charte Constitutionelle. — Polish Conspiracies. — Subjects for Melodramas. — The National Archives. — The Palais de Saxe and its Public Gardens. — Palace of Government. — A Jumble. — Tlie President ofthe Senate. — The Marieville Bazaar. — Macadam at Warsaw, and Macadam in London. — The Catholic Churches. — The Lutheran Church. — National Monuments. — Prince Poniatowsky. — The Ujazdow. — Lazienki. — Mosaic. — Polish No bility. — Chateau of Villanov. — The University of Warsaw. — Collections. — System of Education Modes of electing Professors contrasted. — The Great Russo-Polish Hospital. — Dr. Florio. — Tight Dress and Diseases of the Heart. — Digression on Prussic Acid. — The Jews. — Ton of Society. — Condition of the People. — Dwarfs. — Ministerial Expose of the State of the Nation. — Count Mostowski. — Religious Worship in Poland. — Public In struction. — Administration of Justice. — Pain of Death — How Inflicted The Man-woman. — Landed Interest. — Remedy against low Prices — Po pulation of Poland. — National Manufactures. — Internal Communication and Navigation. — General Police Mines. — Finance. Page 551 579.

Chapter III. Silesia

SAXONY. DRESDEN. Departure from Warsaw New and excellent Road to Kalisz, through Sochaczew and Lovicz Approach to the Frontiers of Poland. — Kalisz Public Institutions and remarkable Buildings — The Battle of 1706. Polish Table d'Hote. — Marche-route to the Prussian Frontiers — Silesian Roads the worst in Europe Projected Road to Breslau.— The City of Breslau Number of Catholic Churches An accelerated Post-waggon from Berlin Another Table d'Hote Prussian Roads and Prussian Posting Line of Communication through Buntzlau, Gorlitz, Lobau, and Bautzen Change for the better in Saxony — Excellent condition of the Saxon Roads Picturesque approach to, and impressions on seeing the Capital of Saxony Dresden. — An Explanation — Plan and general Aspect of that City Statue of Augustus in Neustadt The Bridge Mr. Russell, Marshal Davoust, and the bronze Crucifix. — Papal Dispensation for a better Diet during Lent Drowning, a capital Punishment among the Saxons. — Picturesque Prospect from the Bridge The Catholic, or Court Chapel The Briihl Terrace, or Public Promenade View of Dresden from Neustadt — Mode of Living, Lodgings, and Hotels. — Saxon Society — The English at Dresden. — Influx of Russian and Polish Families — Doctor Kreisig — His Notions of Physiology New System of Medicine Hahnemann and in finitesimal Doses Miraculous Cure Dr. Striive — Artificial Mineral Waters Chemistry of Nature. — Professor Carus — His Publications and Collection of Comparative Anatomy His Discoveries — Streets, Houses, and Vehicles The Frauen Kirche and the Kreutz Kirche. — Exposition of the Dead. — The Dance of Death. — Monument to Adelung. — The Feast of the Bakers. . .... Page 580— CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

The Picture Gallery.— Preliminary Ceremony for visiting that or any other public Collection in Dresden.— The Building.— Internal Arrange ment.—Internal and external Gallery — Advantages of that Arrangement. —Madonna di St. Sisto, and other chef -d' œuvres.— BaLtoni's Magdalen — Facility afforded to Copyists St. Francesco of Correggio.— Cignani.— Andrea del Sarto. — Carlo Dolce. — Dosso Dossi. — Peculiar effect of Perspec tive.—Titian's Venus -Magic of Light. — " La Notte," the Gem of the Dresden Gallery. — St. George and St. Sebastian. — The Doctor's Portrait. — Colours of Parmegiano. — The Flemish, Dutch, German, French, and Spanish Schools. — Method of classing the Pictures. — Engraved Gallery. — Sum Total. — The Rust Kammer The first Pistol and the last Tourna ment Museum of Natural History. — Curious effect of Lightning. — The Chemnitz Oak The Stag Horns Too much Fat. — The Giant Hound and the Chicken Hound. — The Charger of Augustus II. — The Residenz Schloss. — Grime Gewolbe. — The largest Enamel. — The Great Mogul, the Tea Service, and the Temple of Apis, by the brothers Dinglinger. — The Cameo of Augustus Octavianus. — The tri-coloured Onyx. — The Treasure. — The Green Diamond Millions ! — Royal Pawning. — Napoleon at the great Opera of Dresden. — Contrast. — The Heights of Racknitz. — Moreau's Monument The Grosser Garten. — pillnitz Sachsische Schweiz The Bastey. — Konigstein. — Pirna. — Sonnenstein. — Establishment for the Treat ment of Lunatics ..... Page 615 — 652

Chapter V. Prussia, Federated States, And France

Farewell to Dresden Return to Leipsig. — Christmas Fair Excursion to Halle Professor Meckel. — His rank as an Anatomist and Physiologist. — Interview with him. — Nitzsch, the Zoologist. — His Opinion of Modern Entomologists. — Curious Tribe of Insects. — Sprengel, the Medical His torian and Botanist. — Meckel's Museum. — Meckel and the Council of the University of London. — Jubilee of Dr. Niemeyer. — Return to Weimar. — Madame Goethe. — The Military and Naval Library. — Schiller's Colossal Bust, by Danneker. — Its Inauguration. — Dinner at Madame de H . — The lucky President — Madame S , the bas bleu, and Novel Writer Interview with Goethe. — His Opinion of the English Translation of two of his Works. — Faustus, by Lord F. G — Tasso, by M. Devaux New Method of Teaching Modern Languages.- — Thoughts on Moral Philosophy. — The Jubilee Medal. — An interesting Document. — Arrival at Frankfort. — Visit to Professor Soemmerring. — Summary Account of his Museum. — Soemmerring and the Council ofthe London University. — Journey to May ence. — The Statue of Guttenberg. — Fortifications Saarbruck. — Forbach. — The French Douanes — .Road to Paris, through Metz, Verdun, and Chalons sur Marne — The French Capital. — Hotel Meurice. — Presentation to Charles X — Return to England . . Page 653 to the end. ST. PETERSBURGH IN 1827. PART SECOND. (continued.) PICTURE OF ST. PETERSBURGH.

CHAPTER V. THE IMPERIAL FAMILY THE IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.

I APPROACH the following subject with great diffidence and hesitation. On the illustrious individual now at the head of the Russian nation— on his personal character, and political principles — the entire faith and reliance of the European Cabinets repose, at this moment, for a continuation of that system of universal peace amongst them, which has been purchased at the price of so many recent sacrifices. Towards him the eyes of all Europe are at present turned. A young and powerful sovereign— full of health and energy — beloved by .his subjects, to whom he is attached in return — esteemed and looked up to, as their natural leader, by one of the finest and most numerous armies in the world— surrounded by a galaxy of generals, whose VOL. II. B o THE EMPEROR NICHOLAS. names have been entwined with the laurels of the last me morable war,— Nicholas the First, quits the luxuries of the gorgeous palaces I have described, and stands even now on the threshold of that Empire, between which and Russia there are fearful accounts to settle.

On his assurances, therefore, that there are no ambitious views connected with his present actions ; on his disclaiming all desire of con quest and aggrandizement, must, for a short time, depend the chance of undisturbed peace, or of inevitable war, among those friendly nations that have agreed to remain tranquil spectators of the events which are about to take place beyond the Balkansky Chain, or Bulgarian Alps. Fortunately those assurances have been given, as it is generally understood ; and by a monarch, whose political life, brief as it has yet been, has never belied any of those strict principles which in private life have, by general acknowledgment, been known to guide his conduct. The education which the present Emperor of Russia received in his youth — the example of an elder brother, whom all Europe recognised as an upright prince — the experience of passing events, added to information sought and obtained in foreign countries, while yet removed from the throne, are so many guarantees of the safety of that confidence which other sovereigns have placed in him.

Were it even only his character as an eminently dutiful and affectionate son to a surviving parent, herself the acknowledged pattern of every virtue, Nicholas would still have the strongest claim to an implicit belief. But that prince has other and equally strong titles to the utmost reliance of his own subjects, and that of foreign nations; for both which reasons he may safely rest his expectations of a full approbation of his conduct. Nicholas the First was thirty-two years of age on the 7th of July last. He was born in the same year in which Catherine the Second closed her long and glorious reign ; and did not therefore, like his more fortunate brothers, Alexander and Constantine, experience the influence of that great mind in the care of his early education. Nature, however, had provided him with a mother, who stood in less need than any reigning princess, of the counsels and assistance of others, to lead her child in the path of virtue.

At an early age he was placed under the guidance of General Count Lamsdorff, an officer of distinguished merit, who had served his sovereign with great reputation, both in the field, and as Governor of Courland. The Count had previously enjoyed a high degree of well-merited confidence at Court, as Cavalier de Service, with the Grand Duke Constantine, during a period of ten years ; and likewise as director of the first corps of cadets. He enjoyed the patronage of the present Empress-mother, then reigning Empress ; and it was under her direction that he conducted the education of the Grand-duke Nicholas, and that of his brother the Grand-duke Michael, from the time of the former of those two Princes completing the fourth year of his age. No choice could have been more fortunate. The qualities of the Governor's heart were precisely such as affectionate parents would wish to see appreciated by their children ; and those of his mind were strictly of that cast which were required to direct the studies of his illustrious pupils, under the instructions of proper masters.

The Count is no more : he terminated his long and ho nourable career, at the age of eighty-three, on the 4th of April last ; and from his character, as portrayed in the Court Gazette, it is fair to conclude, that the principles which he doubtless endeavoured to instil into the bosom of his Imperial pupil, must have been consonant with those which marked his own conduct through life. " Une integrite a toute epreuve," says the writer, " une B modestie et un desinteressement rare, une volonte essen tiellement dirigee vers le bien, et la plus religieuse exacti tude dans raccomplissement de ses devoirs, tels etaient les traits distinctifs de son caractere. Dans son interieur la simplicite de ses mœurs et de ses gouts, Texercice constant de toutes les versus privees, une sensibilite exquise, ses habi tudes eminemment patriarcales, auxquelles il ne derogea jamais, et cette amenite bienveillante dont Texpression se lisait encore dans ses traits au moment de la mort, le ren daient au plus haut point venerable.

Calme et resigne dans ses derniers momens, et conservant toutes ses facultes, sa mort a ete celle du juste.1' As Nicholas grew in years, preceptors for the higher branches of learning were selected from among the most eminent men of the country ; and it is but justice to make particular mention of one of them, Monsieur Balouhiansky, who had the honour of instructing the Grand-duke in the principles of the art of government, and of practical science ; and the continuation of whose services Nicholas has since secured to himself, as Emperor, by placing him in his private Chancellerie in the situation of state-secretary. Too young at the time of the invasion of his country to take a prominent part in that war of defence, which was soon followed by another, and the last campaign, Nicholas has not had opportunities of acquiring that degree of ex perience in warlike operations, which would be required of him were he intended for a mere military conqueror.

But the art and science of military operations, without which experience itself is frequently of no avail, he studied under very able masters and veteran officers. In the year 1816, travelling in foreign countries was deemed expedient by the Grand-duke, with a view to acquire more enlarged notions respecting those nations which were acting the most conspicuous parts in Europe. Among these Great Britain as selected was the country which offered a wider field of observation to a prince desirous of information. The Grand-duke, therefore, visited England in November of that year : he landed at Dover, where he was received by the Russian Ambassador, and Colonel Ford, who commanded the Engineers stationed in the town, and who accompanied the Prince round the fortifications of the Castle, on the heights, and through the subterraneous passages of that fortress.

His first step on British ground was marked by a proof of liberal disposition. The noise of the cannon which had been firing to celebrate his arrival, according to form, had frightened a horse that was standing in a cart at a short distance from the shore. The animal ran the length of some streets, dragging its heavy load after it, when it fell down and expired. The Grand-duke was passing at the time, and learning, on enquiry, the nature of the accident which had deprived an industrious man of an useful animal, insisted on compensating him with a sum of money far above his loss, of which, observed the Prince, " I am myself the innocent cause." The Grand-duke resided in St. Alban's House, in Stratford-place, where the Austrian Archdukes had been staying a short time before. He was accompanied by General Kutusoff, Baron Nicolay, now Russian Ambassador at Copenhagen, Doctor now Sir William Crichton, and others.

Royal carriages and footmen were placed at his disposal : he held levees, received the subjects of his Imperial brother, listened to the complaints, history, and petitions of the supplicants amongst those Russians who happened to be in London in need of assistance, and in all cases relieved them, either with money, or by provid ing, in concert with the Ambassador, for their return to their native country. A frequent and mutual intercourse was kept up during THE REIGNING EMPRESS. his residence at St. Alban's House, between the Royal Family and himself. The Grand-duke received visits from the Prince Regent and his royal brothers, to whom he gave a grand entertainment on board a Russian frigate, at Woolwich. He rode out a great deal — visited many of the public establishments frequently accompanied by the late Sir W. Congreve, than whom few people were better able to explain their nature and objects, — mixed freely in society — and acquired a high degree of popularity for his affability and polished manners.

After a residence of some weeks, he extended his visits to several parts of England and Scotland, endeavouring to make himself master of those peculiarities which distinguish this above all other nations. In the following year, he married the present Empress Alexandra Feodorowna, then Princess Charlotta of Prussia, daughter of Frederic William the Third, and of the late Queen, whose name is highly revered in her own country and wherever virtue and an elevated mind are justly valued. With the hallowed reputation of her lamented mother, which preceded her to the country of her husband, the present Empress carried thither her own name, already associated by the public voice with every noble quality that can embellish the fair sex, and more particularly one in so exalted a station. Nature too had been so lavish of her favours on the person of the Empress, that it is impossible to imagine a more striking appearance, or one which, with the handsome countenance of the late Queen of Prussia, and somewhat of that melancholy expression which marks the upper part of the face of her Royal father, unites to a stately majestic carriage so much grace and dignity.

Of the many portraits which Mr. Dawe has painted of the Empress, some of which, (particularly the THE HEREDITARY GRAND-DUKE. 7 last, in her gala-dress,) possess great merit as pictures, I think the palm is due to that which has been beautifully engraved by Mr. Wright, and which represents her Majesty sitting, playfully entertaining her two eldest children, the hereditary Grand-duke, and the Grand-duchess Maria. The artist seems to have seized, in this instance, not only the lineaments of the face, but those of the mind of his illustrious original. Of this most amiable princess, the Emperor is represented to be dotingly fond, and with her he leads an extremely domesticated life, although surrounded by all the cares of so vast an empire. He is frequently seen abroad with her, without any of that attendant pomp and splendour, which are perhaps necessary pageants with less popular sovereigns ; and both are known to devote much parental care to the education of the numerous children with which their union has been blessed.

Of these, five survive ; namely, Alexander Nicholaevitch, the hereditary Grand-duke, born in 1818 ; Maria Nicholajevna Grand-duchess, born in 1819 ; Olga Nicholajevna Grand-duchess, born in 1822 ; Alexandra Nicholajevna Grand-duchess, born in 1825; and lastly, Constantine Nicholaevitch Grand-duke, who was born in September 1827, a few weeks before our arrival at St. Petersburgh. The hereditary Grand-duke is placed under the superin tendance of General Ouschakoff, one of the Aid-decamps-general of the Emperor, assisted by Colonel Morder, and receives instructions from Monsieur Joukovsky, one of the most distinguished literary characters in Russia. It is remarkable, that the three Grand-duchesses have English nurses attached to their establishment. The hereditary Grand-duke is a very fine-looking child, strongly resembling his father, high spirited, and, it is said, of the most promising disposition.

With such a domestic menage as distinguishes the present Imperial family of THE HEREDITARY GRAND-DUKE. 8 Russia, it is'impossible not to expect from the children every thing that is flattering to the prospects of that country, and, we may add, of Europe ; for the destinies of all nations must necessarily be more or less interested in the question — who is to wield the resources of that extensive empire. The hereditary Grand-duke, who had been appointed Colonel of a regiment of Hussars from his earliest age, ■was named by the Emperor, during our stay in the capital, .Ataman of all the Cossack troops ; on which occasion the Court Gazette published the Imperial rescript, addressed to General Kouteinikoff, commanding those forces, in which the Emperor desires that officer to communicate the nomination " aux braves troupes du Don, qui vous sont confiees, persuade qu'elles y verront un nouveau gage de la re connaissance et de la bienveillance que je leur porte pour les services distingues, qu'elles ont rendus a la patrie, et pour leur fidelite au trone sur lequel j'ai lieu de compter d'autant plus, que des le commencement de mon regne, elles ont donnes dans la guerre actuelle contre les Persans, les preuves les plus brillantes de leur devouement et de leur bravoure."

The Emperor also declared his pleasure that the Grand-duke should be considered as chief of the regiment of the Ataman, to be henceforth called the Regiment of Cossacks of his Highness the hereditary Grand-duke. In due time, the felicitations of the Cossack troops stationed in the Oural, and those of the Don, were forwarded to the newly elected Ataman, to which the Grand-duke replied by addressing an appropriate rescript to the respective Generals. The Prince is brouo-ht up, both in a domestic and military point of view, in the strictest discipline, and constantly under the eyes of his parents, and the vigilant and intelligent superintendance of the Empress-mother. He frequently walks or drives about town, attended by a companion of about his own age, who is educated with him, and is the son of a general officer.

I have more than once seen him in the severest weather dressed in his simple uniform, accompanied by his playmate, driving a two-horse sledge, with none of the fur trappings which other people deem it necessary to wear as a protection against a cold of several degrees below the freezing point, blooming with health, and full of gaiety, receiving with a pleasing smile the saluta tions and marks of respect which, when recognised during the rapidity of his course, every class of persons seem delighted in paying to their future Emperor. At all times the example set by the superior classes in the exercise of parental and domestic duties, in the display of conjugal attachment, and the practice of private virtues, has had a beneficial influence on the other ranks of society. But when such an example is to be met with in the family of the Sovereign, the benefit of its influence over every class of his subjects must be tenfold ; and that such is the case in Russia at the present moment, and particularly among the higher circles in St. Petersburgh, I have had frequent opportunities of ascertaining.

Nor is the individual conduct of the Emperor himself without its good effect on the minds of his people. His application to business is most regular. The affairs of the state alone seem to engross his attention, and it is said that he seldom gives an hour to pleasure, which might have been better devoted to the welfare of his subjects. He rises early, and spends some time in transacting military matters. Part of this consists in receiving, as I before stated, Count Diebitch, the chief of the Etat-Major, who daily waits on his Majesty from seven o'clock till nine, and reports the state of the army during the preceding day, and receives his Ma jesty's commands. After breakfast he either attends the council, or receives his Ministers daily ; each of whom has his appointed days and hours for waiting on the Emperor.

He has on some occasions attended the senate ; and it was reported, while we were at St. Petersburgh, that ha ving heard that the Senators had been in the habit [al assembling very late, a practice which caused considerable delay in public business, his Majesty called early one day at the House of the Senate, and finding none of its mem bers assembled, simply desired it to be made known to them, that the Emperor had attended to transact business at such an hour. From that time the Senators took care to be at their post with greater punctuality. At one o'clock he generally attends the parade. In the winter this takes place under cover, unless the weather be both fine and mild, in which case, as well as in the summer months, it is held in the great square, in front of the Winter Palace, or in the Champ de Mars.

When it is under shelter that the parade is to take place, the exercise house, belonging to the Chateau St. Michel, already men tioned, is the building selected. The troops are collected within it, and the general officers of the garrison of St. Petersburgh, or holding situations in the capital, make a point of attending. The foot and horse guards dis mounted, form the mass of the troops reviewed. It was on the occasion of one of these parades, that I first had an opportunity of seeing the Emperor. On the 15th of November, a Te Deum having been sung at the Winter Palace for the capture of Erivan, a more than usually bril liant parade was expected. The day was exceedingly fine, though excessively cold: notwithstanding which I placed myself, with three friends, wrapt up in our cloaks, outside of the exercise-house, to witness the arrival of all the offi cers, who returned from the religious ceremony at the palace in order to attend the parade,' and with whom the Em peror himself was expected.

There were about two hun dred people present, very quiet, Avell-behaved, and silent. The gate of the exercise-house was guarded by four gen darmes on foot. Three or four officers of the police were present, and an aid de camp de service paraded outside to and fro. About half past one o'clock, when the firing of the guns had ceased, which announced the performance of the ceremony at the palace, officers of all ranks, and of all regi ments and corps, infantry as well as cavalry, began to arrive, and continued to do so till two o'clock, some in sledges drawn by magnificent horses, others in handsome close carriages. On alighting they threw off their outside mi litary cloak, and exhibited their ribbons, and stars, and decorations, over their green, white, and scarlet uniforms. Among them I recognised General Jomini, who abandoned the fortunes of France to serve Alexander, and has a public situation at St. Petersburgh.

His person looked so very different from the well-fed, and well-looking stout generals of the country, that one could plainly see, in the care-worn and hollow lines of his physiognomy, a French general of division, notwithstanding his Russian uniform and brilliant orders. During the arrival of these officers, the regiment of the Chevaliers Guardes, mounted on bay horses, dressed in white uniforms, with black helmets and cuirasses, and carrying the Persian standards, defiled out side of the ground, preceded by a whole band of trumpet ers. As the moment of the approach of the Emperor was near at hand, the officers of the police reminded some among the crowd to pull off their hats on his arrival ; and the aid de-camp before alluded to, after looking stedfastly at all those in the front row, addressed me in particular.

One of my Russian friends having informed me that the object of his inquiry was whether I had any petition for the Emperor, I replied to the officer in French, that I was a stranger, and had no petition to present ; upon which he apologized in the same language, observing that as aid de camp de service it was his duty to receive all petitions intended for the Emperor on such occasions, in order that he might present them immediately to His Majesty. Although I was not aware, at the time, that I looked so very much like a petitioner, as to cause me to be selected among the multitude; yet I was particularly delighted at this trifling incident happening to myself, because it afforded me, at once, the practical knowledge of the fact, that the Emperor is accessible on these occasions to the supplications of his subjects, and even strangers residing in his dominions, with a facility which is not to be met with in other countries where the Sovereign is less powerful than the law.

A gentle buzz now ran through the people assembled, and presently a light, elegant sledge, drawn by a spirited black horse, which a richly costumed, fine-looking, young Isvostchick was urging to its full speed, entered the court bv the grand gate, sliding in silent rapidity over the well smoothed snow, and conveying the two Imperial Brothers, Nicholas and the Grand-duke Michael, who passed before us, and suddenly stopped opposite the entrance of the exercise-house, within two feet of which I had been permitted to stand. The same aid de camp de service took their cloaks after they alighted ; and I had then an opportunity of observing the striking personal appearance of these two princes, whose countenance, stature, and figure claimed for them a decided superiority over every handsome officer we had seen that morning, or that we observed on subsequent occasions among the several regiments of the guards.