A personal narrative of two years' Imprisonment in Burmah, 1824-26. With illustrations

Front matter

■ I ■ ■ I HE ROYAL PALACE AT AVA. L iuru u Native Drawing presented to the Royal Asiatic Society by Colonel H Buruejr 1 APIECE. . s„e paSe ,2 PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF TWO YEARS' IMPRISONMENT IN BURMAH. By HENEY GOUGEK. war boat. See pafie 107 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1860. The right of Translation is reserved. LONDON : PRTNTF,T> HY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF TWO YEARS' IMPRISONMENT IN BURMAH. BY HENRY GOUGER. Miilj Illustrations. SECOND EDITION. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1862. LONDON PRINTED BY WOODFALL AND KINDER, ANOEL COURT, SKINNER STREET. Since the publication of this Narrative, and, indeed, while the Second Edition was preparing for publication, my Brother was suddenly seized with a dangerous illness, which has since terminated fatally, and the task, there fore, of passing it through the press devolves upon myself.

It was my late Brother's intention to have made considerable additions to the matter contained in the work as originally published, and, to the last, it was a source of regret to him that he had been able to accom plish so little before .he was laid on a bed of sickness, and no longer able to apply himself to the work. So much, however, as had been written was placed by him in my hands before his death, and is now printed as an additional chapter, at the end of this Edition. The only subject that appears to call for any remark from me is, that as considerable surprise has been ex pressed that my Brother should have been able to relate, with such minuteness of detail, events which occurred between thirty and forty years ago, I avail myself of this opportunity of explaining, as far as I am able, how this occurred.

Those who are acquainted with the perfect truthfulness and simplicity of his character will perfectly understand how it never should have occurred to him that any one could doubt what he himself knew to be so perfectly true; and, consequently, that he should have taken no pains, either in the Preface or in the body of the work, to explain what the materials were which he had to work upon ; while, on the other hand, he rather parades the fact that he kept no journal, aud could not even make the slightest notes of passing events during the whole period of his captivity. Had my Brother lived to pass this edition of his work through the press, he would have explained, with more clearness and fulness than can now be done, how he was enabled to be so minute and circumstantial in all the details of his painful story.

Chapter I

paoe The object and origin of my expedition. — I embark in the Alfred for Rangoon. — Escape from wreck on the Preparis Rocks. — Arrive at Rangoon. — Official "Visit" on board the Alfred. — Mr. Lanciego, the Akoupwoon. — Duties levied in kind. — My investment attracts attention. — I engage an interpreter. — Pagoda lake. — First impressions of the Burmese. — Preparations for pursuing my voyage. — Visits to the Viceroy. — I secure his protection. — Boats' crews. — Their honesty. — Food. — Ngapwee. — Departure for Amerapoorah. — Favourable prospects .... 1

Chapter II

Delta of the Irrawuddi. — Musquitos and juDgle. — The great river. — Voyage up the river. — Fleets of native boats. — Inland trade in rice. — Safety of the river. — Hilly country. — Picturesque sail beyond Prome. — Monasteries and monks. — Their habits. — Education general among the people. — I acquire the language. — Arrival at Amerapoorah. — Tolls and transit dues abolished. — Safety of the river 16

Chapter III

The King removes from Amerapoorah to Ava. — The population in a state of transition. — Amerapoorah. — No exactions on landing. — I take a house. — Gain easy access to His Majesty. — Abandon the use of shoes. —The King's temporary Palace. — Apparition of an Englishman. — Mr. Rodgers. — I am introduced to the chief Queen. — Her character and influence. — Musical-glasses. — The Queen's present. — Betel-chewing. — The King's practical joke . b CONTENTS. VI 49 68 78

Chapter IV

paok A day in the Palace. — Ladies of Her Majesty's household. — Their demeanour. — Bargaining. — Strange salutation. — Honesty in the Palace. — The Queen's present. — Constitution of the household. — The Men-tha-mees. — The King's dinner. — Flattering reception. — Factions at Court. — Visit to the Prince of Tharawudi.— Men-thagee. — Their characters and mutual hostility. — Tharawudi's embarrassing familiarity ........ 38

Chapter V

Visit to various Chiefs. — Their occupations. — The Hlut-dau. — Burmese law-courts. — Bribery and corruption. — The Loo-byo-dau. — Their visits. — I am accused of stealing the King's sheep. — His Majesty's adjudication. — Slaughter of oxen. — I am protected by Tharawudi, who participates. — "Wretched bazaar. — I attend the Royal Council. — The Yoong-dau. — Facility of acquiring information. — Absence of amusements. — Salubrity of climate .

Chapter VI

Mercantile prospects. — Export trade. — General system of prohibition. — Astonishing profits on imports. — Prospects of immense fortune. — On what circumstances depending. — Difficulties. — How to be overcome ......... 59

Chapter VII

Mr. Rodgers. — His history. — Irascible character of the King. — His attack upon his Council. — New Palace at Ava. — It is injured by lightning. — Consequent execution of the architect. — I take leave of the King. — His commands. — I return to Rangoon under convoy.— Kyouptaloung Thegee. — Gross treatment of Europeans at Rangoon. — An instance. — Singular escape of a Lascar .

Chapter VIII

Arrival in Calcutta. — Hesitation about returning. — I determine to follow our scheme. — Disgraceful neglect of the Bengal Government.— I engage Mr. Richardson. —We sail for Rangoon. — Mr. Stockdale. — Return to Ava. — Explosion of a priest. "Red Rat" and "Red Gold."— I make myself independent of interpreter.— Death of Mr. Stockdale. — A boatman drowned. Escape from drowning.— Alligators.— Strange habit.— A boatman of Dr. Price taken by one. —Anecdote of Wellesley Province CONTENTS. VII

Chapter IX. Page

Our arrival in Ava. — No European settlers. — Mr. Cabral, his fate. — Ava occupied. — Mr. Lanciego lends me a house. — Audience of the King. — Present him with the dog. — Absence of all love of sports among the Burmese. — Sale of investments. — Mercantile proceedings. — Mr. Rodgers. — Arrival of Dr. Price, a missionary. — Anecdotes of the old King. — His character. — He forces Mahomedan3 to eat pork. — His astrological whims. — Brahmin astronomers versus Burmese. — Prediction of eclipse. — The King consigns a section of his Court to the horse-pond.- — Escape of Mr. Rodgers. — Rebellion at the accession of His Majesty. — Complicity of Mr. Rodgers. — How he cleared the Irrawuddi of pirates. .......... 90

Chapter X

First indications of war.' — Causes assigned for it. — Opinions of Tharawudi. — Popular feeling in favour of war. — Bundoola crosses the river with an army. — War boats. — Magnificent regattas. — Dr. Judson arrives. — Bundoola's army marched for the British frontier. — Accusation about Mr. Stockdale's property. — I accompany the King to the Shwai-dyke. — Tempting exhibition of silver. — Attempt to walk off with it. — My failure therein. — Growing dislike and suspicions. — I confine myself much to my house 102 CHAPTER' XI. Perplexities. — Departure of Mr. Richardson, who escapes in safety. — Taking a wild elephant. — Mode of taming him. — Royal pugilists. — My last interview with the King. — Scheme for escape with the Sakkya Woongee. — Defeated by delays. — Might have been worse Ill

Chapter XII

Rangoon bombarded. — Effect of the news. — Hopes and plans of the Americans. — Mr. Rodgers. — Lanciego. — I confine myself to the house. — State of the city. — Message from Tharawudi. — Cure for cholera. — I am shunned by every one. — Summoned to the Bya-dyke. — Arrival of Mr. Laird. — I am accused of being a British spy. — Examinations. — I am committed to the custody of the Taing-dau, and remanded . , . . . . .12*1 CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter XIII

Changed prospects. — My guards accompany me home. — Our flight discovered. — I am taken back to prison at midnight. — Another examination lasts all night. — I am again committed to the Taing-dau, and consigned to the stocks.*— Punishment of my keepers. — Corruptibility of the Taing-dau. — I am stripped and carried to the Death Prison. — Some account of that establishment. — Let-ma-yoon. — Terror of its name. — I am loaded with three pairs of fetters 13l>

Chapter XIV

I find Mr. Laird in irons before me. — Mr. Rodgers taken. — Apprehension of the American missionary, Dr. Judson. — His ill-treatment. — Dr. Price arrested.— The "Red Rat" entrapped. — We are prohibited the use of the English language. — We are put on the bamboo. — Prison discipline. — Our first night. — How passed. — Starvation of prisoners. — Alms-giving in the prison. — I am taken from my companions. — Torture of a man accused of robbery. — Its result ........ 150

Chapter XV

I am examined about my property.— Hour of execution in the prison.— A Greek and an Armenian arrested.— Arrakeel's escape from Tharawudi.— Our second night in prison.— Dr. Judson examined about his property. —The "Rat" and Mirza released.— Mrs. Judson visits her husband in prison.— She gains us some comforts.— We are lodged in an outside shed.— Examinations by torture.— How practised.— Our growing apathy at beholding these scenes ....... -ifi<>

CHAPTER XVL

Some account of our prison, party.— Dr. Judson.— Remarks on the Baptist mission to Burmah.— Missionary misrepresentations — Some account of Dr. Price.— And of Mr. Rodgers.— His superstition.— Some account of Mr. Laird.— Constantine, the Greek — Arrakeel, the Armenian . ' , * . . It I CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XVII. Ut

L • PAGE We are shut up m the inner prison again. — Our property is seized. — Impure state of the inner prison. — How to change our dress. — We are released from the bamboo. — News from Rangoon. — Signal-guns. — Prison thoughts. — Thunba Woongee made General. — Prison disclosures. — Superstition. — Execution of a native for stepping over the King's image. — Strange treatment of a man who fancied he could fly.— Arrival of an Irish soldier. — His treatment. — News brought by him . ..... 185

Chapter XVIII

We are transferred to the cells. — Description of them. — Plan of the prison. — Plague of rats. — Murder in the prison. —Its cause. — Frailty of a Menthamee. — How punished. — My house being burnt down, I am accused of arson. — Narrow escape. — Fortunate destruction of my journal. — Providential interferences. — Anecdote of escape from a tiger . . . . . . .196

Chapter XIX

My utter destitution. — My servants abscond. — Fidelity of my Mahomedan baker. — Defeat and death of Thunba Woongee. — We are thrust into the inner prison again. — A prisoner brought in with smallpox. — We escape infection by tobacco. — Its universal use. — Prison recreations of Dr. Price. — I play chess with Dr. Judson. — Chess in the Palace. — Amusements of Mr. Rodgers and of Mr. Laird. — Laxity of prison regulations. — i\iy dangerous illness. — Barbarity of the gaolers. — I recover unexpectedly . . . 208

Chapter XX

Dundoola is recalled from Arracan to command the army. — Runaway soldiers. — Their superstitious reports. — Captured sepoys arrive and are imprisoned with us. — We escape suffocation. — I am chained to a leper. — Native officers starved to death. — Their want of endurance. — One man saved. — News of Mr. Richardson. — Accusations revived. — A gang breaks out of prison. — Oppressions in prison. — Father Ngalah's system. — Uncomfortable dispute between the missionaries. — A mother and daughters in irons ........... CONTENTS. X

Chapter XXI. Page

Our fetters are increased to five pairs each. —Increased severities.— Orders given for our assassination. —Why not executed.— We are not allowed to be seen.— The Governor's communication to Mrs. Judson. — Bundoola' s victory. — His defeat and death. —The King's Horse in prison.— Advance of the British army.— The crowing hen.— Superstitions.— Nostrum to ensure longevity.— Prison museum.— Pacahm-woon in irons. — He is appointed Generalissimo.— His hatred of the English.— Mr. Lanciego arrested and put to the torture. — Our wretched condition . . 230

Chapter XXII

We are removed from tbe Let-ma-yoon, and taken to Oung-ben-lai. — Our sufferings on the journey. — My terror. — Dr. Judson. —His intense suffering. — Murder of the Greek.— The ringed men leave us. — Night at Amerapoorah. — We are carted to Oung-ben-lai. —We are in fear of being burned. — The prison described. — We are put in the stocks. — Contrivance for hoisting them. — Musquitos. — We are chained in couples. — My baker's fidelity. — Mrs. Judson follows her husband.— The Governor's warning to her ......... 242

Chapter XXIII

Some comforts at Oung-ben-lai. — Our anxious position. — Ignatius Brito, a Roman Catholic priest, is arrested and imprisoned, and goes mad. — A lioness in prison with us. — Our conjectures and terror. — The lioness starved to death. — Object of the Pacahm-woon. — Insalubrity of Oung-ben-lai. — Mrs. Judson takes smallpox. — Judson takes fever. — He inhabits the lion's den. — Plague of snakes. — We kill great numbers of the cobra capeUo. — Nandau snakes. — My marvellous escape from a cobra . . 254

Chapter XXIV

British army goes into quarters at Prome. — The Talain race join and assist it. —Preparations of Pacahm-woon. — His intention to bury ns alive in Oung-ben-lai. — He is suspected of treason, and put to death. — Causes of his fall. — Doubt about the plot. — We escape by his death. — Summoned to Amerapoorah. — Translation CONTENTS. XI PAGE of letters. — Offer to negotiate for peace. — Negotiations. — Jud son taken from prison. — Bad faith. — Melloon stormed. — Judson protected by a Chief. — Ava put in a state of defence. — The Bur mese are routed at Pagan. — Dr. Sandford deputed to the British General. — Returns to prison. — Burmese incredulity. — Dr. Price is released and employed 265

Chapter XXV

The British army advances. — Rumours. — The King prepares for flight. — Kindness of Dr. Sandford. — I am supplied with arrack. — Doubtful policy of the Court. — I make preparations to escape. — Koh-bai gained over. — Major Jackson. — His munificent present. — Another strange cage of prisoners. — Liberated on the 16th February, and carried to Ava. — Interview with the Myo-woon. — I embark on a war-boat and start for our camp. — Passage down the river. — Stopped by the Kaulen-mengee. — Remains of the Burmese army. — Its dejected state. — Interview with Burmese General. — I am allowed to proceed ..... 277

Chapter XXVI

Arrive at the British camp. — My joy at regaining my liberty. — Alarm of my crew at the steamer. — I am kindly received by Major Armstrong. — I report myself to Sir A. Campbell. — His hospitality. — The army advances to Yandabo. — Timidity of the Indian Government. — Their anxiety for peace. — Translation of the Treaty. — I save the Government £70,000. — The Commissioners refuse to admit my claims. — Treaty of Peace. — I leave Yandabo with Sir A. Campbell 289

Chapter XXVII

Voyage from Yandabo to Rangoon. — A dispatch received by Sir A. Campbell to proclaim Pegu independent. — Too late to act on it. Delightful voyage. — An unexpected adventure. — Capture of a war-boat. — I am appointed police magistrate for the Pegu district.— Its disturbed state. — Burmans and Peguers.— Instances of Burmese revenge on the revolted Peguers. — Massacre of a boat's crew. — Attack on a Talain village 301

Chapter XXVIII

Famine in Pegu. — Depredations of tigers. — One shot in the town of Rangoon.— Payment of the money under Treaty. — Mr. Crawfurd appointed Envoy to Ava. — Dr. Judson accompanies him. — Death CONTENTS. PAGE of Mrs. Judson.— The Burmese secretly collect arms in Rangoon. —Their seizure.— Crowded state of my gaols.— Woongee arrives in Rangoon.— Sir A. Campbell honours him with a State dinner —Some account of it. — How the Woondouk enjoys it. —Other amusements at table. — Embarkation of the troops. — Evacuation of Rangoon. — I proceed to Amherst. — Some notice of it. — I go in search of teak forests. — Depopulation of the country. — Interesting sight of a herd of wild cows. — Conclusion . . . 313

Chapter XXIX

Reasons for writing the present chapter. — War not invariably an unqualified evil. — Treaty of Ava. — Burmese embassy to the Governor- General. — The Envoy's knowledge of English customs. — Colonel Burney appointed Resident at the Court of Ava. — His successor, . Colonel Benson. — Suspension of diplomatic intercourse. — Conquest and annexation of Pegu. — Marked improvement of Rangoon, and general beneficial results. — Mission of compliment from the King of Ava. — Return visit of Colonel Phayre. — His friendly reception by the King. — Effects of free and friendly intercourse. — The country pervaded by the true spirit of Christianity . . . 328 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Royal Palace at Ava ..... Frontispiece. War Boat Title-page. A Burman op Rank To face page 31 Exterior op Prison, Ava ..... 144 Interior op Prison ...... 154 A Bcrmebe Girl . . ... . . 19g NARRATIVE OF A TWO YEARS' IMPRISONMENT IN BUBMAH.

Chapter I

The object and origin of my expedition. — I embark in the Alfred for Rangoon. — Escape from wreck on the Preparis rocks. — Arrive at Rangoon. — Official "Visit" on board the Alfred. — -Mr. Lanciego, the Akoupwoon. ■ — Duties levied in kind. — My investment attracts attention. — I engage an interpreter. — Pagoda lake. — First impressions of the Burmese. — Preparations for pursuing my voyage. — Visits to the Viceroy. — I secure his protection. — Boats' crews. — Their honesty. — Food. — Ngapwee. — Departure for Amerapoorah. — Favourable prospects. The year 1822 found me residing in the district of Bauleah in Bengal, where, for two or three years, I had been following the hazardous occupation of producing raw silk in competition with the commercial Resident of the East India Company. I say hazardous, because the arbitrary power which that Government possessed was intrusted to its servants, who used it in the most un scrupulous manner to crush the spirit of private adven ture, and to retain in their hands the virtual monopoly of a branch of industry which by an act of the British B [Chap. I. 2 SILK MONOPOLY. legislature, in 1813, had been declared open to all its subjects, under certain restrictions.* * The days of monopoly are now happily at an end, but it may not be uninteresting to look back to those times, and to rejoice in the change.

The East India Company competed with the private trader in the produc tion of raw silk. They had their commercial Residents established in different parts of the silk districts, whose emoluments mainly depended on the quantity of silk they secured for the Company, who permitted these agents (or residents as they were termed) to charge them a certain commission on its value. The system pursued by both parties was this : — Advances of money before each bund or crop, were made to two classes of persons — first, to the cultivators who reared the cacoons ; next, to the large class of winders who formed the mass of the population of the surrounding villages. By the first, the raw material was secured ; by the last the labour for working it. These advances were regarded as legal earnest money, or as pledges by the receivers to confine their dealings to the party disbursing it.

The larger the quantity of silk the resident provided for his masters the greater was his remuneration, — a state of things which naturally created a jealousy between the functionary and the private trader, as their interests clashed. But there was no equality in the competition, the one being armed with arbitrary power, the other, not. I will state a case of every-day occurrence. A native wishing to sell me the cocoons he produces for the season takes my advance of money ; a viUage of winders does the same. After this contract is made, two of the Resident's servants are despatched to the village, the one bearing a bag of rupees, the other a book, in which to register the names of the recipients. In rain does the man to whom the money is offered protest that he has entered into a prior engagement with me.

If he refuses to accept it, a rupee is thrown into his house, his name is written down before the witness who carries the bag, and that is enough. Under this iniquitous proceeding the Resident, by the authority committed to him, forcibly seizes my property and my labourers even at my own door. Nor does the oppression stop here. If I sued the man in Court for repayment of the money I had thus been defrauded of, the judge was compelled, before granting a decree in my favour, to ascertain from the commercial Resident whether the defaulter was in debt to the East India Company. If he was, a prior decree was given to the Resident, and I lost my money. Chap. I.] VOYAGE TO AVA PROPOSED. 3 In the year above named I was attacked by an obstinate complaint which baffled medical skill, and was advised, as a last resource, to try a change of climate as affording the only means of recovery.

This advice I was the more disposed to follow, as the expiring efforts of the East India Company to retain its ascendancy in the silk districts seemed likely to bring about my ejection at no distant time, with great damage to my fortune. I there fore arranged my affairs as quickly as possible, and went down to Calcutta, quite undetermined in what part of the world to seek the restoration of the health I had lost. While in this state of uncertainty, an intimate and dear friend,* now no more, first suggested to me the idea of a voyage to Rangoon, the chief seaport of the Burmese dominions, and thence by the river Irrawuddi to Amerapoorah, then the capital of the Empire. At that period tbe Burmese Empire might truly be styled terra incognita, for, with the exception of three or four traders at Rangoon, who had rarely penetrated beyond a few miles from the town, this vast country was destitute of European inhabitants, and its capacities for commerce almost totally unknown.

The published narratives of two missions,t from the Bengal Govern ment to the Court of Ava, contained all the information Another weapon in the hand of the Resident was the settlement of prices to be paid to the cultivators at the close of each season, the East India Company's price regulating that of the private trader. The higher the price, the greater his commission, — the money was not his own, and his masters had a long purse. Under a system like this my willingness to escape ruin cannot be wondered at. Yet this was called in those days free trade. * The late John M'Keuzie, Esq., of Calcutta. t That of Colonel Michael Symes, Envoy in 1795, and of Captain Hiram Cox in the year following. B [Chap. I. RELATIONS WITH BURMAH. 4 we could collect. These I read with the deepest interest, but I cannot say there was much in them to encourage the undertaking, for they both, especially the later one hy Captain Cox, were records of a tissue of ignorance, insult, and caprice, such as would render commercial dealings on a liberal scale utterly impracticable.

On the other hand, although haughty and jealous to the repre sentative of a foreign power, I might find them quite the reverse when it was discovered that my objects were purely mercantile. Many abortive attempts to form trading establishments among the Burmese had been made during the last century, not only by the English East India Company, but also by the French and other western nations. In every instance they appear to have failed through the treacherous conduct of the Govern ment, and long before the East India Company had ceased to be a trading corporation, all further efforts in this direction were abandoned by them. Even private individual enterprise, which, especially in commercial affairs, often succeeds in effecting what a Government or powerful Corporation would attempt in vain, had ap parently been frightened from the field, for I could not learn that a single person deserving the name of a merchant had ever the hardihood to embark capital to any extent in dealings with a nation whose security was so questionable.

My friend, an intelligent merchant, in whose judgment I placed great reliance, said he had reason to believe that a highly lucrative commerce might be esta blished with Amerapoorah and the regions beyond, especially in the introduction of British cotton manufactures which were at this time beginning to supplant the native fabrics in most of the markets of the East. To ascertain Chap. I.] EMBARK IN THE "ALFRED." 5 the wants of the population in this particular, and to acquire a knowledge of the various products of the country suitable for export, were the main objects of tbe proposed expedition, while at the same time an equally important question might be set at rest, whether, under such an arbitrary government, life and property would be sufficiently secure to justify the attempt. My choice lav between accepting this proposal, and undertaking a dull routine voyage with no other object than the fulfilment of the doctor's injunction, and the reader will have little difficulty in deciding whicli of the two offered tbe strongest attractions, when I add that, at this time, I was barely twentythree years of age.

The love of novelty and adventure quickly settled the question in my mind, and I at once entered enthusiastically into the views of my friend, who, on his part, manifested his confidence in the success of tbe scheme by engaging to supply me amply with the means necessary to carry it out. I soon found a ship sailing for Rangoon, the Alfred, Captain Dolge, and in her I embarked at the end of June, 1822, having supplied myself with a few suitable presents for the King and his Court, which, it appeared from the books before alluded to, would be almost indis pensable to my success. My friend, Mr. Mackenzie, also expended a few thousand pounds in furnishing me with such sorts of British goods as he thought best adapted to the purpose of testing the wants of the people. Meanwhile, my health continued so precarious that it was deemed prudent to associate with me a gentle man,* whose services happily were not long needed. * The late Mr. A. Tainsh, who remained at Rangoon, and subsequently had the good fortune to escape with his life when the town was captured by our troops. [Chap. I. 6 ESCAPE A SHIPWRECK.

He proceeded with me no further than the port of Ran goon, where I left him. The weather, from the time the pilot took his leave, ■was a constant succession of squalls and rain, for which, at this season of tbe year, the Bay of Bengal is noted. While this lasted we kept our course by dead reckoning, for the clouds were so dense and the rain so continuous, that we had nearly traversed the bay before we obtained a sight of the heavenly bodies. As he neared the land, Captain Dolge became rather anxious. One afternoon, at three bells, as we were seated at dinner, the rain pouring down in such a deluge that nothing was visible fifty yards from the ship, it suddenly ceased, — the weather, for the moment, became clear, when the terrible shout, " Breakers ahead !" quickly brought us from the table to the deck.

We now discovered that the breakers were not only ahead, but also on either bow, forming the shape of a horse-shoe, into the hollow of whicli the ship was fast ploughing her way. Had the rain lasted ten minutes longer, every soul on board must have perished. As the wind fortunately was free, we had still time to clear the outermost reef, but near enough — to use a nautical phrase, rather hyperbolical — to pitch a biscuit on it. Once out of danger, our captain found the occurrence most useful, as it gave him a correct knowledge of our position, and told him we were on the Preparis shoal, well known to mariners, and much dreaded by them. Two or three days more brought us abreast of the town of Rangoon, where we anchored about the middle of July. Rangoon has, no doubt, undergone great improvement since it became a dependency of the British Crown, but at that time it was a miserable, dirty town, containing Chap. I.] OFFICIAL " VISIT." 7 8000 or 10,000 inhabitants, the houses being built of bam boo and teak planks with thatched roofs, — almost with out drainage, and intersected by muddy creeks, through which the tide flowed at high water.

It had altogether a mean, uninviting appearance, but it was the seat of government of an extensive Province, ruled over by a Viceroy, a Woongee of the Empire, in high favour at the Court. On the day after her anchoring, the Alfred was to receive what was technically called the " Visit," previous to which, according to custom, she was not permitted to commence the discharge of her cargo. This official visit was conducted by the Akoupwoon, or Collector of the Customs, the only office, under the Crown held by a European. At this time it was filled by Mr. Lanciego, a Spaniard by birth, who had resided many years in Bur mah, which he had made the country of his adoption by marrying a lady of the Court, the sister of a favourite Queen. As this gentleman will be frequently mentioned, I may here remark that he was a man of liberal education, having been brought up in his own country to the medical profession.