Face to Face with the Mexicans: the domestic life ... legendary and general history of the Mexican people ... With ... illustrations

Front matter

MEXICO CITY Some fragrant tree; By flower-sown se; Great walls about. Gate posts without, Where boats go up and down. And a sense of rest To the tired breast That prop these sapphire skies Two huge gate posts Snow white, like ghosts — In this beauteous Aztec town Gate posts to this Paradise ! But, oh ! turn back from the high-walled town : There is trouble enough in this world, I surmise Without men riding in regiments down To die by those perilous Spanish eyes ! — yoaquin Mffler. But the terrible thing in this Aztec town, That will blow men's rest into stormiest skies, Or whether they journey or they lie down- These wide and these wonderful Spanish eyes ! FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS: the Domestic Life, Educational, Social, and Business Ways Statesmanship and Literature, Legkndary and General History of the Mexican People, AS SEEN AND STUDIED BY AN AMERICAN WOMAN DURING SEVEN YEARS OF INTERCOURSE WITH THEM BY FANNY CHAMBERS GOOCH. tDitli 200 JJlIustrations.

LONDON: SAMPSON LOW. MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, Limited^ St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C. Copyright, 1887, by FANNY CHAMBERS GOOCH. Press of J. J. Little & Co. Astor Place, New York. U. S. A. TO MY MEXICAN FRIENDS THIS VOLUME, IN WHICH I HAVE ENDEAVORED TO EXPRESS MY APPRECIATION OF MEXICAN CHARACTER AND SHOW IT TRUTHFULLY TO MY COUNTRYMEN, IS DEDICATED. EL ARBOL DE LAS MANITAS TREE OF THE LITTLE HANDS [Translation of letter from President Diaz.] Mexico, April I, 1886. Mrs. Fanny Chambers Gooch, Present. Esteemed Madame Having read your favor of day before yesterday, and complying with the kind desire which you are pleased to express, I have the pleasure to send you herewith the photographs of my wife and myself. We are grateful to you for your consideration, and also thank you for your courtesy in notifying us of your approaching journey, which I hope you will make with all happiness. I remain your attentive and affectionate servant, Porfirio Diaz.

Preface

. The descriptions of Mexican life, customs, and character embraced in the following chapters are drawn from a close and interested scru tiny of the people of our neighboring Republic during a residence and visits among them including in all a period of about seven years. Like all foreigners, I was practically a stranger to the marked peculiarities of race, social and business life, government, and religion there to be encountered. In all that I had read on the subject, in books or transient sketches, I found that no one had endeavored to minutely describe certain phases of Mexican life and character, necessary to be understood in order to fully appreciate the people. First impressions of writers are either glowing on account of nov elty, excitement, and varied pleasures, or marked by unfavorable criticisms obtained from a mere surface-view of the new society with which they mingle.

I shared in the variety of impressions common to all strangers ; but experience with the people and a careful obser vation of them brought about a change in my opinions as to the fitness of their government and national customs for the varied races of their Republic. And more than this: a closer contact also re vealed to me the high culture and splendid attainments of her men and the warm, sympathetic hearts of her women. The longer I mingled with the Mexican people the more forcibly was I impressed with the fact that they are not properly understood by their Anglo-Saxon neighbors. As this thought grew in my mind day by day, there grew with it a desire to acquaint my own countrymen more intimately with them, and, if possible, secure a fairer appreciation of a people whom it has been too long the custom to decry, but who deserve the highest commendation for their works and institutions, projected and carried out under many difficulties.

PREFACE.

. To accomplish this task, which I felt was a sacred mission and a tribute that I wished to pay to my Mexican friends, I undertook the present volume. I have not failed to realize that the field is new and that it required a more skillful pen than mine to accomplish all that was intended. The details were so numerous and yet so indispensa ble to the full delineation of character and customs, that great patience has been necessary to eliminate from the material accumulated much that was interesting but not essential to the main design of the work. Then, too, dealing with so many subjects grouped under gen eral headings, the tendency was to make broken and fragmentary sketches. Every chapter will be found to be complete in itself, how ever, and all serve to give faithful pictures of the people.

Having lived in close personal contact with the domestic service of the country, I have devoted a few of the initial chapters to this unique and, to us, humorous phase of Mexican life, showing the un failing inbred adherence to national characteristics. In submitting this volume to the people of both Republics, it is with the sincere wish that it may, in a measure, lead to a better ac quaintance the one with the other, and that this acquaintance may induce both to realize that they have differences and peculiarities naturally adapted to their governments, races and religions. Each can respect and co-operate with the other in peace and harmony, in dependent and separate as they ever should remain, fixed by nature; but sisters as Republics. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. A duty would be neglected if I failed to pay a tribute to the many friends from whom acts of kindness were received during my residence and journeys in Mexico.

To mention each one is impossible, because none were met who did not aid me in my efforts, either by words or acts, which, though perhaps forgotten by them, will ever be by me most gratefully remembered. To ex-Governor John Ireland of Texas my first acknowledgments

PREFACE.

. 15 are due. He has taken a deep personal interest in my work and en couraged me in its execution, furnishing me with letters to President Diaz and governors of various Mexican States; to General Henry R. Jackson, American Minister; to Major Joseph Magoffin, Collector of Customs at El Paso, and to other leading personages, and obtained for me facilities for full access to various sources of information. General Hamilton P. Bee and Dr. Halbert P. Howard, both of whom have had a life-knowledge of Mexico, rendered me valuable as sistance with letters of introduction to distinguished citizens of the Mexican Republic. To S. G. Sneed, Esq., my thanks are due for his sympathetic inter est in the preparation of the work and the benefit of his cultivated lit erary taste. To Dr. D. T. Iglehart, Hon. J. W. Robertson and Mr. Sterling B. Allen for many kindnesses, and to Mr. J. A. Hooper, of the "Gould system " of Southwestern Railways, for official courtesies in traveling.

At El Paso I was the recipient of many gracious attentions from Mr. R. F. Campbell and family and Mrs. Fannie D. Porter and family. To Major Joseph Magoffin and family I am specially indebted for unbounded hospitality and assistance on my journey both in going and returning. Major Magoffin presented to me Sestor J. Escobar, Mexican Consul, and together they rendered me invaluable aid by having circu lars printed, stating my object and commending me to the Mexican people. Sestor Escobar also gave me letters of introduction to Sestor Mariscal, Mexican Minister for Foreign Affairs, and anticipated every need in my introduction at the capital. Sestor Mariscal received me with true Mexican courtesy and appointed Sestor Jose J. Jimenez to accompany me to various public in stitutions. During my stay Sestor Mariscal rendered me many other valuable services.

To Mr. Frederick P. Hoeck, who personally presented my letters, and to Mr. Charles E. Cummings, both of the Mexican capital, I am happy to make acknowledgments. Our minister, General Henry R. Jackson, and his estimable wife

PREFACE.

. received me with warm encouragement and kindness, showing me distinguished attentions at the legation. The editor of The Two Republics, Mr. J. Mastella Clark, and his charming wife bestowed on me many kind favors and hospitalities. Among other kind American friends were Mr. and Mrs. E. J. Gould, Mr. and Mrs. G. F. Mayer, Mrs. J. L. Corella, Rev. J. J. Grib bin, Mr. H. G. Payne, Major Robert Gorsuch, Mr. S. J. Bloodworth, Mr. F. R. Guernsey, and Mr. and Mrs. R. F. Pitten. I am indebted for many courtesies to Major E. W. Jackson, Man aging Director of the Mexican Central Railway, to Mr. R. C. Peeples, Superintendent of the Mexican National Railway, and to Mr. Thomas Braniff, Managing Director of the Mexican Railway, and for courtesies from railway officials in all my travels. The Mexican Press Association appointed three of its most ac complished members, Sestores Augustin Arroyo de Anda, Alberto G. Bianchi, and Bernabe E. Bravo, to show me attentions in the name of the association.

To these gentlemen I am deeply indebted for con tinual courtesies. To Dr. Semelider my thanks are due for valuable information, and to Dr. Ocadiz, Secretary of the San Carlos Academy, Judge Ignacio Sepulvida, and Sestor Zazzimende, for various attentions. Dr. Antonio Pestafiel, of the National Museum, gave me access to his splendid library and collection of Mexican antiquities, and jointly with his brother-in-law, Sestor Lamberto Asiain, presented me with valuable scientific works. The family of Sestor Tirso Calderon, with whom I resided in the City of Mexico, will ever be held in grateful remembrance for their untiring attentions and tender regard. I am specially indebted to Sestora Calderon for introductions into the homes of many distin guished families; and, generally, to the Mexican people of all classes and conditions, for their gracious kindness to the stranger within their gates.

The book has been illustrated principally by Miss Isabel V. Waldo, a portrait painter of New York, who was in the City of Mexico during PREFA CE. 17 my stay there. Her portraits of the various types are taken from life, and are faithful delineations of the characters they represent. The illustrations on pages 65, 265, 429, and opposite page 183, were kindly sketched for me by Ramon Castestada, a young student of the San Carlos Academy. The initals and outline sketches were drawn by P. G. Cusachs. While the body of the work has been the result of my personal experiences and observations among the Mexican people, in the his torical chapers I have availed myself of the researches of Hubert Howe Bancroft in his histories of Mexico from 1804 to 1861 ; Prescott's Conquest of Mexico ; also Brantz Mayer's Mexico ; Aztec, Spanish and Republic, and Mexico as It Was and as It Is ; also Humboldt's works on Mexico.

F. C. G. ADDENDA. SINCE publication, this book has been most appreciatively received, and has steadily grown in public favor. It has already in great measure fulfilled the lively hopes of the author. The extended and kindly reviews which have been accorded it by the foremost journals and periodicals have certified to its merit ; the generous and spontaneous indorsements given it by distinguished Mexicans and Americans — including Judges of the United States Supreme Court, nearly one hundred United States Senators and Congressmen, the House Committee on Foreign Affairs, and all the Foreign Ministers from Mexico and the Central and South American Republics — evidence its interest, its trustworthy accuracy, and its value in view of the increasing commercial intimacy between the two great republics of this continent.

The author desires to express her thanks for valuable aid to her in Washington, rendered by United States Senator Richard Coke of Texas, as well as to every gentleman whose name appears on the list of patrons and indorsers of her book [see pages at the end of the

PREFACE.

. volume], for the practical interest shown in forwarding the object of her work — the cultivation of a friendly international spirit between the two peoples. To the Mexican Minister and Madame Romero, of the Legation at Washington, she is especially indebted. And now, may the good work go on ! I long to see the bond of fraternal feeling sealed by a mutual Christian sympathy, and ratified by a sentiment of neighborly good-will, which this attempt to make the Mexican people better known to my own countrymen is earnestly intended to foster. F. C. G. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. Tradition and founding of Saltillo — Origin and derivation of the name — Opinions vary — Coahuila — Origin of the name — Saltillo, the seat of important industries — Making a new home — Beautiful scenery — Calle Real, the historic seat — Architecture — Home in an old Mexican mansion — Doors, roof, windows, floors, keys — Adobe roofs — Water spouts — Relics of Mexican grandeur — Absence of modern conveniences — Fears of ghosts and hobgoblins — A nocturnal adventure — Interesting discoveries — Visit from a Mexican youth — Scenes from my window 33

Chapter II. In Mother Noah's Shoes

Primitive housekeeping — The indispensable mozo — Extraordinary culinary arrangements — The metate, or mill — Pancho's wit and intelligence — Daily revelations. Wrestling with a foreign tongue — Primitive practices — Going to market — Mexican articles of food— Street scenes — A familiar face in a strange land — The burros — Retail venders — A cooking-stove — The disgust of the natives — The stove's oration.

Chapter III. No Es Costumbre

The lack of a broom — A friend in need — The eseobero, broom-vender — House-cleaning — Astonishing the natives — Pancho's amiability gives out — He leaves me for his "sick grandmother" — Pancho's successors — Courteous insubordination — Greek meets Greek — Pancho's successors depart — Peculiar names and characteristics of servants — " Little John " — Wifely devotion — Marital tyranny — An undressed fowl — Knotty points CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. The Loan Of

A MOZO AND A TRIP TO PALOMAS. Successive departures of successive mozos — Cosme, our borrowed mozo — We set out for Palomas— Cosme in the van— His John Gilpin ride — Palomas— A typical Mexican home — A surgical operation — Inquisitive hospitality — Inherent courtesy — A Mexican dinner — Embroidery and fancy work — The "Pass of the Doves" — Our ride home — Poor Cosme ! — He takes a mournful departure — His pious adios 102

Chapter V. From Border To Capital Along The Mexican Central

The Mexican "All aboard ! " — El Paso and Paso del Norte — Chihuahua — Santa Rosalia, its manners and customs — Dr. Tarver and family — Strange notices in a meson — Stations and scenery along the road — Zacatecas — Mines and mining — Aguas Calientes — Historic associations — National Palace — Public bathing of the common people — Bridge at Encarnacion— Queretaro— Maximilian's monument — Other towns along the road — Memorial crosses and stone-heaps — Nochistongo Pass — Arrival at Mexico City — Hotel San Carlos — The all-important camarista 127

Chapter VI. Tenochtitlan

— THE AZTEC CAPITAL. The founding of the city — Invasion by the Spaniards — The three great causeways — The Spaniards' defeat — "Noche triste" — Atzcapotzalco — Mexico City — The Zocalo — Street — "Street of the Sad Indian" — Street cars — Pulque shops — Inundations and earthquakes — The Rome of America — Chur'ches — Monuments — Industrial art and public schools — Public gardens — Markets — Charitable institutions — Pawn-shops — Theaters— Dry-goods stores — House-renting — Mexican flora — Art gallery and museum — The Viga Canal — Chapultepec — Climate — The Alameda — Funerals — Valley of Mexico — Popocatapetl — Iztaccihuatl 155

Chapter VII. The Mexicans In Thf

IR HOMES. Characteristics — Sincerity and faithfulness in friendship — Hospitality — How to meet them — Manners and customs— Middle class — Forms of greeting — Etiquette — Gesticulations — Family ties — Their charity and benevolence — Religion — Hospitality — Household arrangements — The Palacio mansion — Music — Poetry — Manners of CONTENTS. 21 speech— Courtesy — Pollas and pollitas — Gallos and gallinos— Domestic tastes of the women —Their beauty, their education and accomplishments — The children — Their beauty and precocity — Little Alfonso — Boys and girls — Home discipline — Courtesy to elders. — The dear babies igS

Chapter VIII. Fasts And Festivals And Social Forms

Harmony of the subjects — Change from Paganism to Christianity — Power of the Roman Catholic Church — Rupture of Church and State — All Saints' Day — All Souls' Day — Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe — Weird sights and sounds — Celebration of a dia de '.in/, i — Celebrations at Morelia and Queretaro — Christmas — Posadas — Finales — Festivities — La China Poblana — Pastorela in the rural districts — Feasts of the Epiphany, Candlemas, etc. — Carnival — Lent — Palm Sunday — Holy Week — Good Friday — Sabado de Gloria (Saturday of Glory) — Floral festival — Feast of St. John the Baptist — Funeral notices — Wearing of mourning — National feasts — Courtship and marriages — Cards : wedding, birth, and baptismal — Social ceremonies — Dress — The gorgeous hacendado — Gallantries — The danza — Outdoor amusements — Chapultepec military academy 242

Chapter IX. From Mexico To Morelia Along The Mexican National

A delightful journey — Charming views — Toluca — Instituto Literario— Public school — Hacienda de la Huerta — Distinguished hospitalities — Touching street scenes — From Toluca to Morelia — Tepeji del Rio — Reminders of Ocampo's tragic death — Hotel de Michoacan — Characteristic hotel regulations — Rambles among the convents — A startling apparition — A unique bachelor establishment — Climate — Minerals — Fruits — Scenery — Peculiar lacquer ware — College of San Nicolas — Prisons and penitentiaries — Architecture — Visit to the Legislature — Morelian hospitality — Tribute from Mary Halleck Foote — Adios to Morelia 293

Chapter X. Actors And Events In Mexican History

Mexico's struggles for independence— Hidalgo, the Washington of Mexico — Midnight scene and grito of Dolores — Stirring events and closing scenes in the life of the patriot — His execution — Morelos, the successor of Hidalgo — Joined by Matamoras — Siege of Cuantla — Defeat and execution — His house in Morelia — The Emperor Augustin de Iturbide — The mysterious portrait — Iturbide's brilliant record — Honors CONTENTS. shown him — Abdication and exile— Return and capture — Execution — The grandson of the Emperor adopted by Maxmilian and Carlotta — The mother regains possession of her son — Madame Iturbide — Vicente Guerrero — Guerilla warfare — Capture and execution — The Bravos, father and son — Magnanimous conduct of Nicolas Bravo — Guadalupe Victoria, first President of Mexico — General Santa Anna — His wonderful career— Exile, return and death — Promulgation of the Federal Chart — Benito Juarez, the Indian President — Tomb of Juarez — His glorious career — Don Melchor Ocampo — His tragic end — Distinguished patriots — Bancroft's criticisms on the American war — Helen Hunt Jackson — Intermarriages of Americans and Mexicans — Causes of the Mexican war — Congress — Madam Diaz and Mrs. Cleveland — General Diaz — Sketch of his life and adventures 315

CHAPTER XL

A GLANCE AT MEXICAN LITERATURE. Primitive literature — The twelve Franciscan friars, the pioneers of Mexican literature — Toribio Benavente — Bernardino de Sahagiin — Las Casas and other early writers — Literary Association — General Palacio as a writer — Literary entertainment at his mansion — Altamirano — Guillermo Prieto — Juan de Dios Peza, the " Mexican Longfellow " — Francisco Sosa — Members of the literati — Mexican journalism — The Liceo Morelos — Mexican Press Association — Women writers — " Mariposa Indiana " — A pleasing token 374

Chapter XII. More About The Common People

" The Silent Aztec Child of the Sun " — Poetical contribution by Joaquin Miller — Contrast between the Mexican and American Indian — Ingenuity of the former — Contentment of the laboring class — Clothing — Fine needlework — Advancement in education — Types — Courtesy among the poor — Their love of music — The lepero — The China Poblana — Making a portrait under difficulties — Social life and courtship — Marriage ceremonies — Bridal costumes — Street conversation — Mexican mobs — Servants — Their devotion to their employers — Wages — Novel methods of keeping accounts Hospitality among the poor — Sewing-machines — Babies — Beauty of the juveniles The evangelista (letter writer) — Annoying peddlers — An ingenious trick — Various avocations — Characteristic conversation — The lavanderas — The aguador, or water-carrier — Ancient superstitious beliefs — Modern superstitions — The tamalera — The curandera, or doctor — "I became a doctor by my natural intelligence" — Pharmacy extraordinary 30- CONTENTS. 23

Chapter XIII. Puebla, Cholula, San Miguel Sesma And Orizaba Along The Mexi

CAN RAILWAY. Starting for Puebla — San Juan Teotihuacan, the Mexican Pompeii— Arrival at the Casa de las Diligencias — The imperturbable ramarista — Puebla — Public buildings — Maternity hospital — Manufactories — " City of the Angels " — Cathedral — Market scenes — Picturesque costumes — Importance and resources of the State of Puebla — Pyramid of Cholula — Pyramids of Xochicalco and Papantla — Beautiful scenery — Incidental kindnesses — Visit to Madam Iturbide's hacienda — Morning song of the peons — A model plantation — Ancient aqueduct — On the road — Places of interest — Storm at Orizaba. 441

Chapter XIV. The Virgin Of Guadalupe

The tradition — Universal and firm belief in it — How the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego — Her command to build a chapel — Miraculous signs and visions — Building of the church 473

Chapter XV. Among The Children

The story of Gaitagileno — Lullabies, rhymes and nursery tales — Conundrums and games —"Elpato" •• 470

Chapter XVI. Scenes From My Window

Picturesque pedestrians — The gorgeous serape — Novel method of taking home the wash — Venders of various articles — Entertaining panorama — Teatro Principal — Military review — An amusing diversion — A runaway — A perplexed butter-boy — Gritos — The tamalera — Touching incident — Song of the " costumbres" — Newsboys' cries 4S5

Chapter XVII. What They Eat And How They Cook It

Skill of the ancient Aztecs in the culinary art — Primitive kitchens — A unique water-filter — Ceremonious table observances — Delicious beverages — Recipes for toothsome dishes -194 CONTENTS.

Chapter XVIII. The American Colony

" Mother of the American Colony " — Our little band in the sister republic — The American Benevolent Society — Hospital — Protestant churches — Bishop Riley — His labors and sacrifices — Celebration of Christmas among the Americans — Agreeable impressions left by our official representatives— General Henry R. Jackson — Simon Lara, founder of the American Hospital — Laying of the corner-stone — Eloquent speech by Gen. Jackson — Token of esteem to the General from the colony — His departure from Mexico and his farewell speech 5°5

Chapter XIX

A FEW OF THE POPULAR SONGS AND DANCES OF THE PEOPLE. The National Anthem — The Danza known as Las Tres Gracias (Three Graces): I. Aglas; 2. Talia ; 3. Eufrasina — La Goloudrina, the Mexican " Home, Sweet Home" — Los Naranjos 6 Adela — I Ay Que Niquel ! — La Paloma 519

Chapter XX. Advantages And Disadvantages

Mutual dependence of the two republics — Causes of misunderstandings — Yankee haste versus Mexican slowness — Steps towards a better understanding — Mexico's wonderful resources — Tact of foreigners in business dealings — John Bull conforming to the " costumbres " — Success in retail trade — Extremes of wealth and poverty — Irrigation — Haciendas — Employees' accounts — Peons — Their intense conservatism — Work retarded by holidays — Mr. Guernsey on foreign labor — Taxes on produce — American miners — Variety of delicious fruits — The maguey plant — Manufacture of pidque, etc. — Tanneries — Shoes — Cattle-breeding — Butter : Its novel manufacture — Minor industries — Transformation of plebeian names — Domestication of American families in Mexico — Education — Naturalization laws — Climate — Police regulations — " Rurales " — Their bravery in rescuing the crew of the " Ranger" — Rewarded by President Cleveland — Judge Crosby on American enterprise and investments in Mexico — Ladies traveling in the Republic — Causes of Mexico's troubles — Her steady progression — Border troubles — The dawn of a new era 538 ADIOS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PACE I Arbol de las Manitas — " Tree OF the Little Hands " {Colored Plate) 2 2 Madame Diaz 6 3 President Diaz io 4 Mexican Plaza, Fountain and Cathedral 32 5 Tradition of Saltillo (Initial Letter) 33 6 Calle Real, Saltillo 36 7 A Few of the Keys . . 40 8 ' ' Would have been a Load for a Burro " 41 g Jealous Husband's Windows 42 10 Two Views from One Window 43 11 Water-spouts 44 12 View in a Court-yard 45 13 A Group of my Little Friends 52 14 Portal in Saltillo 58 15 Primitive Housekeeping (Initial Letter) 60 16 Kitchen No. i 62 17 Kitchen No. 2 63 18 My Household Gods 65 19 The Wood 68 20 Taking their Meals in the Market. 69 21 Selling their Little Stockings and Hoods « ■ • ■ 7° 22 Pulque Shop — Patting Tortillas — Selling Flour — Newsboys 71 23 " There goes the Mexican Railroad !

" 78 24 "Huevos! huevos!" 79 25 " Six for a real ! " 80 26 "It will give me Disease of the Liver" 77 11 27 " No es Costumbre ! " (Initial Letter) S4 28 " Will you buy a Broom ? " 85 29 "No es Costumbre ! " 89 30 A Typical Market Scene 91 31 A Hungry Purchaser 94 32 No ! no hay : (there is none.) ILL USTRA I IONS. PAGE 33 Pio Quinto (Pius V.) as a Doorkeeper 97 34 A Street Scene 98 35 " Oh, forgive me, I'll never do so again " ioo 36 By the Wayside (Initial Letter) 102 37 ' ' Well, now, I'm going " 103 38 A Country Store 105 39 " Pulque in Sheepskins Filled even to the Feet " 108 40 Bound for Palomas 109 41 A Picturesque Traveler no 42 As I Looked when Mounted upon the Sofacita 112 43 At Home under the Aqueduct 115 44 Sweet Contentment at the " Pass of the Doves" 121 45 " Your American Customs are too hard on me !

" 123 46 Old Stone Church at El Paso, Texas 125 47 ' ' All Aboard !

" (Initial Letter) 127 48 The Street of Guadalupe, Chihuahua 129 49 Water-carrier of Santa Rosalia 132 50 Top of Kitchen Chimney in Santa Rosalia 133 51 Wending their Weary Way 135 52 City of Zacatecas 140 53 The National Palace at Aguas Calientes 143 54 The Puenie Encarnacion 145 55 Monument to Maximilian at Queretaro 147 56 Water-carrier of Queretaro .... 149 57 The great Nochistoogo Pass 151 58 The " Home, Sweet Home" of the Mozo of San Carlos 153 59 " We never furnish Soap and Matches in this Hotel " 154 60 Past and Present (Initial Letter) tjj 61 The Zocalo 150 62 The New and the Old , I02 63 The Cathedral IOy 64 Water-carrier at the Capital I7o 65 Mexican Lady at Home I73 66 The Aztec Calendar Stone x»g 67 Toltec — Colossal Head in Diorite 1 7 68 Huitzilpotchi.i, the Aztec God of War lSo 69 An Ancient House on the Viga Canal, and a few of the Passers-by 1S1 70 Chapultepec, with View of Military College in the Extension 18c 71 Scene in the Alameda l8 72 Idlers in the Zocalo I( ILL US TR A 7 'IONS. 27 PAGE 73 Popocatapetl and Iztaccihuatl 194 74 The Pet of the Household (Initial Letter) 198 75 Entrance to a Mexican Home 203 76 ' ' One Little Moment " 211 77 " He is too Stingy to pay his Debts" 211 78 " He plays on the Credulity of his Friends " 211 79 " She's very rich, has plenty of Money" 211 80 A Very Great Critic 212 81 " Adios " 212 82 " He's a Sharper " 212 83 Salutation from Balcony 212 84 " You can't do that now " 213 S5 Interior of Chapel on the Hacienda of Ska Guadalupe Bros 216 86 The Palacio Mansion 219 87 Stairway in the Palacio Home 223 SS The Sala Grande in the Palacio Home 226 89 Corridor in the Palacio Home 229 90 Washstand in a Mexican House 233 91 An Orchid 235 92 Little Alfonso. ' ' I know English " 238 93 The Tulipan (Initial Letter) 242 94 Flor de la Noche Buena (Colored Plate) 246 95 Ready for the Fiesta 250 96 An Orchid with Pink Centre 250 97 A Few of those who Attended the Feast of Guadalupe 253 9S Cathedral of Guadalupe and the Chapel on the Cerro del Tepayac 255 99 Bits From Guadalupe 262 100 His Stock in Trade of Gay Pinates 265 101 The Pretty "China Poblana" 270 102 Love-making from the Balcony 278 103 Hacendados 287 104 Floripondio, with its Snowy Bells (Initial Letter) 293 105 The Indian Village of San Francisquita 295 106 Nevada de Toluca 298 107 Water-Carrier of Guanajuato 302 108 An Object of Horror 305 109 College of San Nicolas 309 no Monument to Morelos, Calle Real 311 ni First Patio in College of San Nicolas 313 112 Soldiers of 1821 (Initial Letter) ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE 113 The Patriot Hidalgo 3J7 1 14 Josf. Maria Morelos 323 115 The Emperor Augustin de Iturbide 328 1 16 Madame Iturbide and Son 33s 117 Vicente Guerrero 34° 11S Guadalupe Victoria 343 119 General Santa Anna, when President for the Third Time 345 120 Manga de Clavo, the Hacienda of Santa Anna 346 121 Santa Anna at the Time of his Death 348 122 Benito Juarez 35° 123 Tomb of Juarez 352 124 Gomez Farias 357 125 Ignacio Mariscal 361 126 Matias Romero 3°6 127 General Ramon Corona 371 128 The Language of the Sword and the Work of the Good Friars (Initial Letter) 374 129 Bernardino de Sahagun 375 130 Las Casas 37S 131 Vicente Riva Palacio 380 132 Francisco Sosa 3S3 133 Guillermo Prieto 390 134 Sitting in the Zocalo (Initial Letter) 39; 135 A Typical Indian Village 398 136 Before her Humble Cottage Home 400 1 37 A Chicken Vender 402 1 38 The Artist's Revenge 407 139 A Mountaineer 411 140 Petate, Jarana and Pottery-venders 41S 141 Debit and Credit Accounts of Servants 422, 423 142 " Your Obedient Servant " 424 143 Miguel Mondregon 424 144 Cradle of a Poor Baby 426 145 A Tortilla Establishment 429 146 Gregoria Quiros 430 147 Wash-house at the Capital 432 148 Washerwomen in the Country 432 149 Water-carrier 433 150 A Celestial Monopoly 436 151 Vicenta : "I became a doctor by my natural intelligence " ILL USTRA TIONS.