The World: round it and over it ... letters ... With illustrations ... Second edition

Front matter

THE WOELD : ROUND IT AND OVER IT. BY CHESTER GLASS, OF O-GOODB HALL, BARRISTBR-AT-LAW. V BEING LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE AUTHOR FROM ENGLAND, IRELAND SCOTLAND, BELGIUM, HOLLAND, DENMARK, GERMANY, SWrTZER- LAND, FRANCE, SPArN, MONACO, rTALY, AUSTRU, GREECE, TURKEY, TURKEY-IN-ASIA, THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, INDLA, SrNGAPORE, CHrNA, JAPAN, CALIFOR- NIA, NEVADA, UTAH AND NEW YORK. TOGETHER WITH NINETY-SIX ILLUSTRATIONS ENGRAVED ON WOOD, SECOND EDITION. ' ' Bow fresh was every sight and sound On open main or winding shore I We knew the merry world was round, And we might sail forevermore." -Tennyson. cJotonto: ROSE-BELFORD PUBLISHING COMPANY. 1881. Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada in the year one thousand eight hundred and eighty-one, by Chester Glass, in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture. ©ebicatioit. -*■ To the Members of the Press, and other friends, who gave the writer a hearty welcome on his return home, these pages are respectfully dedicated.

List of Illustrations. CANADA. PAGE EDWABD HANLAN, CHAMPION SCULLER OF THE WORLDfull page, - 31 SUSPENSION BRIDGE AT NIAGARA FALLS, 5 UNITED STATES. STARS AND STRIPES— LIBERTY, EQUALITY AND FRATERNITY, ■ - 508 BIG TREES OF MARIPOSA, CALIFORNIA— full page, .... 512 A CALIFORNIAN FORTY-NINER, AN EMBRY'O MILLIONAIRE— full page, • 521 ENGLAND, CHALK CLIFFS OF SOUTH COAST, 17 WINDSOR CASTLE, RESIDENCE OF THE QUEEN, 22 SIR BEVYS AT THE DERBY — NECK-AND-NECK PASSING THE WINNING- POST— full page, 23 THE THAMES EMBANKMENT — full page, 34 RIGHT HON. W. E. GLADSTONE, 35 THE EARL OF BEACONSFIELD, 47 SCOTLAND. OLD EDINBURGH BY GASLIGHT, 5(1 SCOTT'S MONUMENT ON PRINCES STREET, 51 EDINBURGH CASTLE— full page, 53 BOOM WHERE JOHN KNOX DIED— full page, - - ' - - - - 54 HOLYROOD PALACE AND MONUMENT TO BURNS —full page, 56 COLLEGE WYND, WHERE WALTER SCOTT WAS BORN, .... 58 IRELAND.

THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, - 67 TOMB OF EDMUND BURKE, 68 THE PAR-FAMED BLARNEY CASTLE, 76 BELGIUM. IHE BELFRY OF BRUGES, - - VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE THE LION MOUND ON THE FIELD OF WATERLOO, 80 HOLLAND. WINDMILLS AND DYKES, ..-...--- 83 STREET SCENE IN AMSTERDAM—TEAM OF DOGS, 86 DENMARK. THOUVALDSEN, THE GREAT DANISH SCULPTOR, 87 SWEDEN. WHARF-SCENE— full page, - - 89 GERMANY. BRANDENBURG GATE AT THE END OF THE UNTER DEN LINDEN, - . 91 THE GREAT WINE TUN AT HEIDLEBERG CASTLE, 103 A CASTLE ON THE RHINE— full page, 106 SWITZERLAND. LUCERNE AND MONT PILATUS, - - - 101 FRANCE. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE AT PARIS— full page, 110 THE TRI-COLOUR OF FRANCE, WITH CAP OF LIBERTY, - 108 SPAIN. HEAD-PIECE— BALCONY AND CONVENT, 123 SPANISH PEASANT GIRLS— full page, 125 SPANISH MONASTERY AND MONKS, 130 MONACO.

Introduction

. tour within five or six months. He does this, probably, on a Cook's ticket, rushing through Japan, China, and India, making rapid connections with trains and steamers, and finally bolting past the Pyramids and over into Italy. A day in Rome — a glance at Venice — a dash through the tunnelled Alps, and away he goes to Paris. He arrives home, weary and dissatisfied, having finished his tour within the allotted time, but really having done himself and the great subject undertaken but scant justice. Then, again, there are others who manage matters some what differently. They travel leisurely, buying no through tickets, stay ing long enough in each country to see its cities and its people, to understand the leading features of its history, and to participate in the amusements and modes of life of the natives.

They enjoy life, never think of moving away from a place till quite ready, and spend—at least a year and a half or two years in this thoroughly pleasant mode of travelling. When they arrive home, they are stronger in bod}' and mind than when they left, and have a clear and possibly an intelligent idea of the great sights of the earth. Under the banner of this latter class of travellers, I would advise an intending tourist to enrol himself.

Part I

rVjKj,HIS short chapter and the following one contain a w[K running synopsis of the contents of the book, so that the reader may have, at a glance, a comprehen sive idea of the itinerary followed without reading throu o-h the whole of the pages to discover it. I left my home at London, Canada, by Great Western Railway ; passed Niagara Falls, took the New York Cen- SUSPENSION BRIDGE OVER THE CHASM AT NIAGARA. tral to the Great Metropolis of the Empire State ; and at New York embarked on the steamship " Abyssinia," of the Cunard Line, for Liverpool, where we landed after a ten days' passage, during which the ocean was as smooth as a mill-pond, and I so sea-sick that I hadn't a gleam of hope or pluck left in me. I went pretty thoroughly over Great Britain from the Isle of Wight to the Highlands of Scotland, visiting Edin burgh, with its Princes street, the most picturesque prom enade in the world, and spending six weeks in exploring London, that most delightful of -cities.

After an Irish tour from Cork to the Giant's Causeway, seeing by the way the Groves of Blarney, the lovely Lakes of Killarney, classic Dublin, go-ahead Belfast, and the fine old Cathedral City of Armagh, I crossed through England and over to Ostend, in Belgium, at last touching foreign soil. Brussels ; the field of Waterloo ; Antwerp, with its masterpieces of Rubens ; quaint old Rotterdam ; Amster dam, the Venice of the North, with its diamond mer chants and its " Night Watch," and Hamburg, the great free city of Germany, were all in turn visited. A Danish steamer, up the Baltic, took me to Copenha gen, the shrine of Thorvaldsen ; a flying visit to Sweden, and then back to Germany. Berlin, the splendid capital of Kaiser William ; Dres den, the home of art ; Cologne, famous equally for its pleasant perfumes and its disagreeable odours; the Rhine, with its picturesque castles and its sunny vineyards ; Frankfort, the cradle of the Rothschilds ; Baden, with its memories of Rouge et Noir; and fortified Strasburg, were each enjoyed.

Then came Switzerland, with Lucerne, the gem of lakes, and the glorious view from the Rigi. A railway ride through France brought me to Paris, the gayest of the gay, where I spent five weeks most enjoyably, seeing the dark as well as the bright side of the far-famed French metropolis. Here I met an old Canadian friend, who decided to accompany me around the world. Together we descended through the rich heart of Gaul to Marseilles, the hot-bed of revolutions. By rail again we crossed the Pyrenees and entered Spain,' the land of beautiful Senoras, stately Dons, and terrific bull-fights. From Barcelona we sailed across the Mediterranean to Marseilles, and went to Nice, the favourite English winter resort. The gorgeous Gambling Palace of Monaco ; the magnificent scenery of the Riviera; Genoa, which breathes of Columbus ; the wonderful Cathedral of Milan, and the masterpiece of Leonardo were seen, and we moved on to Venice, that weird City of the Sea, which one never thinks of but in a sort of dream.

Across the Adriatic to Trieste, the Austrian honre of the ill-fated Maximilian, and of his still more unhappy Carlotta. Then to Bologna, famed for its past learning, and Flor ence, with its great picture galleries containing priceless treasures of art. Across to Pisa, with its leaning Tower and its wonderful echo, and down the Italian coast, passing in sight of Corsica, the birth place of the Man of Destiny, who shook the cobwebs from the eyes of Europe, aud made monarchs tremble in his presence. BIRI>'S-EYE VIEW OF PISA. Rome at last, and glad we were to see it. Five weeks were none too long to see the glories of the once mistress of the world, and then we were off to Naples, Vesuvius and Pompeii. Steamship from here to Sicily ; passing through the ex aggerated danger's of Scylla and Charybdis, and viewing the monster Ætna, we sailed oir to Athens, the fountain head of oratory, philosophy, and art — the home of Demos thenes, Plato and Phidias.

Thence through the barren Archipelago to the Golden Horn, and we stood in the presence of Constantinople, with its domes and minarets, its harems and its palaces.