Picturesque Dublin, old and new ... With ninety-one illustrations by Rose Barton, etc

Introduction

. DUBLIN is eminently picturesque : its architectural buildings have pretensions of no mean order ; they are mostly in the same style and of the same date, and are disposed to the best advantage, with an evident eye to picturesque effect. The broad streets, the statues, here and there what looks like a Greek temple, the bridges that span the river, the narrow quays, the shipping — all tend to give a foreign and attractive air. When we come to Dublin from the busy activity, the struggle for the very breath of life which is a salient feature of provincial towns such as Manchester, Birmingham, and Liverpool, we are struck with the dolce far niente that pervades the Irish capital. There is no struggle for room here ; all is empty in what Carlyle was pleased to call the " vapid, inane streets, full of side cars and trashery " ; we move amidst traditions ; the past is everything, the present has small place.

In the last century this cheerful city was the second capital in the British dominions. It gave itself all the airs of a centre of fashion and gaiety ; and so far it was in its right, for the Viceroy's Court exceeded in brilliance that of George III. Lords and commoners of distinc tion dwelt within its walls. They were as fine as any Introduction <*- of the fine gentlemen in Europe — magnificent in their profuse expenditure, in their dress, their equipages, their establishments. Every nobleman had his town mansion, some palatial in size and design. One of these, now degraded into a counting-house, might fit an artistic corner in Venice. Some have been turned into barracks, others are public institutions ; but all testify to a rich, costly taste and boundless expense. In Stephen's Green there are rows of stately old-fashioned houses, with spacious halls flowered over with elaborate stucco devices, wrought by Italian artists specially imported for the purpose.

Here, too, we have broad stone staircases, exquisite Italian chimney-pieces, ceiling and door panels, decorated with medallions painted by Angelica Kauffmann or Valdre. The public buildings in Dublin are mostly Grecian in character, and generally of such elegant proportions as to call for the admiration of foreign artists, who are particularly struck with the unity of design. On the other hand, some visitors have taken a very different view of the Irish capital. One of these was Carlyle, who has left on record his sad " Reflections upon Dublin," which he pronounces is "not now the capital, for here," he says, " are no lords of any kind ; not even the sham lords with their land revenues come hither now." It is a surprise to find the author of "Sartor Resartus " setting such store of lords, sham or otherwise ; and again he asks the question, "Alas! when will there be any real aristocracy arise, here or elsewhere, to need a capital for residing in ?

" -*> Introduction Carlyle's radicalism was very much on the surface ; it was apt to disappear when he came in contact with either a lord or lady of high degree. An amusing proof of this little weakness is given in his " Irish Tour." In a fit of pettish annoyance at Lord Clarendon (Viceroy in 1849) not having at once responded to his card by an invitation to the Lodge, Carlyle made arrangements to leave Dublin, when, on the day of departure, arrived an aide-de-camp with "apologies, invitations, introductions to divers great personages," all of which had to be declined, very evidently to the disappointment of the sage of Chelsea. All through his visit to Dublin, Carlyle was suffering from the effects of his journey, which he made in a wretched sailing vessel from the London docks, the voyage lasting a week, during which period he endured agonies from sea-sickness.

As was usual with him, all his impressions of the country he had come to visit were tinged by this unfortunate start. Everything was wrong — even the Bay of Dublin did not please him. He talks of the long line of granite embankment coming into the docks : " No ships in it, no human figure on it, the genius of vacancy alone possessing it ; the look of it in one's own cold, wretched humour, sad."1 This wretched humour lasted all through 1 There is no doubt Carlyle went to Ireland with the best intentions. Writing to Margaret Carlyle, he says : "I do not expect to find much new knowledge in Ireland if I' go ; but much that I have lying in me to say might get nearer to some way of utterance if I were looking face to face upon the ruin and wretchedness prevalent there." In the end his purpose of writing the book came to nothing.

In its place he gave the public his notes, the outcome of his dyspeptic temperament. X Introduction ■*- his visit, except when he was the guest of " Lord George Hill" when his humour was serene ; otherwise his remarks upon those who entertained him are in the worst taste. Far pleasanter is Thackeray's account of his visit to Ireland, which took place in the same year as Carlyle's. It would be impossible that so keen an observer of human nature should not have been alive to the patent faults of the nation. There are occasional sneers at the reverence displayed " by the honest Dubliners for great folk, and how they make the most of such a small dignitary as his Excellency, to whose sham Court they go in long trains, the men figuring in very dirty tights." But one cannot feel angry at this, or his funny remarks upon the statue of George I. peering over the paling in Dawson Street close to the Mansion House, or at the teapot without a spout, the lady with the dubious curl papers, or the window in the Shelbourne Hotel held up by the hearth-brush.

There is no ill-nature in the tone of these criticisms ; on the other hand, his admiration is genuine for the stately, well-built streets, the prospect from Carlisle Bridge, the Quays, resembling the Paris Quays ; while over the Bay of Dublin he gushes : "In the morning veiled in mist, towards noon shining under the most beautiful clear sky, which presently became rich with the thousand gorgeous hues of sunset." l 1 Far worse, however, than either Carlyle or Thackeray is the verdict passed by Mr. George Moore (an Irishman), who only finds four objects worthy of attention in Dublin, which he informs his readers is divided into four parts— the Castle, the Shelbourne Hotel, the Kildare Street Club, and Mrs. Rusville, the fashionable dressmaker ! -»> Introduction In all this one regrets the fact that no one was at the trouble to show such distinguished visitors the more picturesque side of Dublin City, or to tell them the traditions which make such places as Kilmainham, Chapelizod, and Glasnevin worth a visit.

Few tourists have even penetrated into that curious, old-world quarter the Liberties, where once the nobility of Ireland had fine houses, where is situated the old Dutch and Huguenot quarter, and where in the Coombe five hundred weavers plied their shuttles manufacturing those lovely brocades which were sent to all parts of the world, and which fetched high prices. The weaving trade has long since departed from Dublin City. With it went the linen, the leather, and the woollen trades. " There is practically no manufacture," says Carlyle, " save and except ale and whisky." And although since his visit there has been some show of revival, there still remains a marked absence of the presence of a broad, loud-voiced, influential trading class. Such as does exist lacks the bone and sinew which are needed to make its influence felt.

This, however, is trenching upon subjects not within the purpose of our volume, which, it is hoped, may direct attention to the picturesque points to be found in the little capital of Ireland. They are many, and full of interest. It is not for a moment suggested that this is a new subject ; there have been many books written on the City of Dublin, of all sizes and sorts, from Sir John Gilbert's important three volumes to Mr. Harrison's duodecimo " Memorable Houses." The Introduction <•- subject, however, is interesting enough to allow of many writers. I may add that it holds a special attraction for me. I love every corner and nook of the quaint old town where the happy days of my youth were spent. Miss Barton is equally enthusiastic in her apprecia tion, and I think has imparted to her sketches that melancholy air^which gives such a tinge of romance to the scenes of the long-vanished glories of Ireland.

We can only hope that our public may catch a spark of the enthusiasm we feel in our task, in which case we shall be more than rewarded for any trouble it may have given us. I make no excuse to my readers for taking for granted that they are acquainted with the leading features of Dublin and its suburbs. The labours of the photo grapher, professional and amateur, as well as Mr. Cook's pleasant tours, have made Irish scenery, so far as its salient points are in question, familiar to all tourists. Such places as the Bay, Kingstown, the Lovers' Leap, are familiar as household words ; and to these I shall not allude. There are, however, many points of interest in both the city and suburbs which are not on Messrs. Cook's Visiting List ; there are nooks and corners, picturesque alleys, and artistic "bits " which well repay a visit ; and it is with the purpose of drawing attention to these that this volume is now presented to the lovers of such old-world relics.

Alas ! many such reminders of the past are gone, others fast disappearing — perhaps rightfully. The old order changes ; and who would desire to keep the picturesque but insanitary dwelling- -*> Introduction houses of a hundred years ago ? Still, there are some who, like myself, cling to the past, and look with distaste upon the levelling of all old-world associations. To such as these we trust this endeavour to guide their footsteps may be acceptable. In conclusion, I have to offer my grateful thanks to the kind friends who have helped in this undertaking, especially to Mr. Robert Armstrong, of Edinburgh, who, personally a stranger to me, has aided me most materially ; and also to my ever-kind friends the Hon. Gerald Ponsonby, whose interest in the subject is as keen as my own, and Mrs. Geale. FRANCES GERARD. August 1 8, 1897. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Dublin Clty

PAGE Castle of Dublin. — Ancient History. — The Worst Castle in Christendom. — Upper and Lower Castle Yards. — Curious Trial by Combat. — Higher Functions of the Upper Castle Yard. — State Apartments. — Amusing History of the Old Days in the Castle. — St. Patrick's Hall. — Trooping of the Colours on St. Patrick's Day. — The Banquet and Ball. — Curious Dancing. — Levees and Drawing-Rooms. — Melrose by Candlelight. — The Kissing Viceroys. — Story of Lord Anglesey. — The Superiority over St. James's in the Matter of the Masculine Element. — The Incoming of the Viceroys. — State Visits to the Theatre. — Bazaars, Concerts. — Story of Bluefacing i

Chapter II

A VICEROY'S LIFE IS NOT A HAPPY ONE. Political role of the Castle. — Wraxall's Definition. — Political Squibs : "A List of the Pack"; "The Poor Be-devilled Viceroy." — Advertisement Extraordinary. — Hacks. — Rats. — Lord Anglesey and the Ladies' Petition. — Reply. — Lord Normanby, Frank Sheridan, Osborne, Lord Fortescue, and Lady Somerville. — Earl of Bessborough. — Lord Clarendon. — Castle and Beauty. — Verses. — Miss Roche, etc. — Lord Carlisle. — Lord Houghton 2>3

Chapter III. The Fringes And Liberties Of Dublin City

Castle Street.— Cage-House of Sir Daniel Bellingham. — Hoey's Court. — Eede's Coffee-House. — The Procession ofthe Fringes. — Houses ofthe Nobility in High Street, Thomas Street, Fishamble Street.—" Waking " Wolfe Tone. — St. Audoen's Church. — Portlester Chapel. — St. Audoen's Arch.— Freeman 's Journal '. —Anecdote of Faulkner.— The Messiah.— Chamber-Organ Contents •*- PAGE upon which Handel played. — St. Werburgh's Church. — Church of Holy Trinity. — The Bishop's Liberty. — St. Patrick's Cathedral. — Schomberg's Tomb. — Tomb of Stella. — Dr. Narcissus Marsh. — Patrick Street. — The Refugees. — The Coombe. — Weavers' Hall. — Huguenot Houses. — Clarence Mangan's Story 61

Chapter IV. The Bank And College Green

The Parliament House. — Vexed Question of the Architect. — House of Imbeciles. — Members of the Old Houses of Parliament. — Daly's Club. — Trinity College. — Princess of Wales. — Irving and the Students. — The Library. — King William's Statue. — Its Adventures. — Students of Trinity College. — Volunteers on College Green. — Wheatley's Picture. — The Fourth of November. — " The Night before Larry was stretched." — Peace 101

Chapter V. The Quays, Brldges, And The Four Courts

Foreign Air of the Quays. — Thackeray's Admiration. — Ormond Quay. — Arran Quay. — Smoke Alley. — Skynners' Row. — The Tholsel. — Bloody Bridge. — The Custom-House. — -The Liffey. — Izod's Tower. — The Four Courts. — Chancery Lane. — " Deil's in Hell." — Carlyle's Opinion of "the Puir Irish." — The Reputation of the Irish Bar. — The Disputes about the Custom- House. — Gandon to leave Dublin. — Recalled .... 123

Chapter VI. Stephen's Green

Stephen's Green. — Indian Jungle. — Crusaders. — Lazar-House. — Sir Walter Scott.— The Beaux' Walk. — George II. 's Statue.— Mrs. Pendarves. — Mrs. Clayton. — Heresy of the Bishop of Clogher. — Francis Higgins. — Lord Iveagh's Mansion. — "Burn- Chapel" Whaley.— Buck Whaley. — His Bet.— Dr. Chenevix Trench. — Clubland. — David Latouche' s House. — Angelica Kauffmann. — Lord Meath's House. — Shelbourne Hotel. — Thackeray and the Hearth-Brush. — Rapparee Fields. — Pirates hung. — "I'll go to Stephen's Green in the Cart." — Surgeons' Hall I43 -»> Contents

Chapter VII. Houses Wlth Traditions

PAGE Belvedere House. — Lady Belvedere's Story. — Kenmare House. — Major Swan. — Lord Edward FitzGerald and Dagger. — Hen rietta Street. — Mountjoy House. — Lord Blessington. — Lady Blessington. — Thomas Carter. — Earls of Farnham. — Cantillon's Story 179

Chapter VIII. Houses With Traditions

{Continued). Aldborough House. — Eccentric Conduct of Edward, Second Earl. — Building of Stratford House and Aldborough House. — Fate of Aldborough House. — Lady Aldborough. — Holy Paul. — Tyrone House. — Powerscourt House. — The Vicissitudes of Moira House. — Leinster House. — Mornington House. — Kildare Street. — Kildare Street Club ....... 197

Chapter IX. The Squares Of Dublln

Earl of Barrymore. — Earl of Llandaff. — Eccentricities. — Luke White. — Honourable Julia White. — Sir Thomas Staples. — Antrim House. — Lord Frankfort. — Beautiful Miss Deane Grady. — Duke's Lawn. — Duke of Rutland's Fountain. — National Gallery. — Henry Doyle, C.B. — Academy of Music . 235

Chapter XV. Rathmines, Ranelagh, Rathfarnham, Etc

Rathmines. — Portobello. — Canal Travelling. — Lord Edward Fitz- Gerald. — Mrs. Dillon. — ■ Ranelagh Gardens. — Mariborough Green.— Tallaght— The Battle of Tallaght Hill.— Fortfield. — Rathfarnham Castle. — Dolly Monroe. — The Priory. — Curran and his Family. — His Wit 353

Chapter XVI. Frescati, Maritimo, Dalkey, Etc

Blackrock. — Frescati. — Pamela. — Lord Edward FitzGerald. — Maritimo. — Lady Cloncurry. — Dalkey. — The King of Dalkey . . 375

Chapter XVII. Soclety In Dublin Clty

Dublin Society as it is. — Changes. — Social Entertainments. — Music. — Theatricals. — Leaders of Society, etc. . . . 391 INDEX 42I ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece. Mounting the Guard, Upper Castle Yard, from the original picture in the possession of Field- Marshal Lord Wolseley . . . . . R. Barton. PAGE 5. The Castle Chapel, Lower Castle Yard . . Chancellor. 11. The Record Tower, formerly Birmingham Tower ........ R. Barton. 12. Entrance to Lower Castle Yard . . . R. Barton. 13. Drawing-room, Castle ..... Chancellor. 15. Staircase, Castle Chancellor. 19. Upper Castle Yard Chancellor. 21. Going to the Levee up Cork Hill . . . R. Barton. 37. Portrait of Lord Houghton, Viceroy . . Chancellor. 38. Portrait of Lord Spencer, Viceroy . . . Chancellor. 39. Portrait of Lord Townshend, Viceroy . . Old engraving, 1769. 47.

Lady Morgan . . . . . From the portrait by Berthon. 51. Daniel O'Connell ...... Photograph. 53. The Princess of Capua Chalon. 359. The Duke of Abercorn and Family . . . Chancellor. 65. The House in which Swift was born . . Old engraving. 67. The Carbric House, Skinners' Row . . . R. Barton. 69. Lord Molyneux's House, Peter Street Copied from old engraving. 71. St. Audoen's Church (Ruin) . . . . R. Barton. 73. Monument in Portlester Chapel . . . R. Barton. 74. St. Audoen's Arch R. Barton. 83. Strongbow's Tomb in Christ Church . . R. Barton. 85. St. Patrick's Cathedral Photograph. 87. West Front, St. Patrick's, 1750 . . Old engraving. 89. Interior of Marsh's Library . . . . R. Barton. 92. Patrick Street R. Barton. 94. The Weavers' Hall, with Statue of George II. R. Barton. 95. Huguenot Houses in Weavers' Square .

R. Barton. 96. The Tenter House R. Barton. 98. Huguenot Houses in the Liberties . . . R. Barton. 105. College Green, the Bank, Trinity College, and Grattan's Statue R. Barton. XX Illustrations <*- PAGE 107. A Night Sitting in the Irish House of Commons ........ After Barrett. m. Trinity College ....... Chancellor. 113. Provost's House Chancellor. 115. King William's Statue ..... R. Barton. 119. The Volunteers, City of Dublin From Wheatley's picture in the National Gallery, Dublin. 127. Narrow Lane, with Peep of Christ Church . R. Barton. 129. The Tholsel Old engraving. 130. The Penny Bridge R. Barton. 131. Essex Bridge . Old engraving, 1756. 133. The Custom House Chancellor. 135. Chancery Lane, " and Hell Contiguous " . R. Barton. 139. St. Michan's Church ...... R. Barton. 147. Stephen's Green Old engraving. 157.

Dr. Chenevix Trench ..... Photograph. 161. Door Panels, painted by Angelica Kauffmann, in No. 52, Stephen's Green, formerly Mr. Latouche's residence, now belonging to the representative body of the Established Church in Ireland ....... R. Barton. 169. Charlemont House ...... Chancellor. 189. Mountjoy House R. Barton. 191. Window in Mountjoy House . . . . R. Barton. 201. Aldborough House ...... Old engraving. 209. Powerscourt House ...... Old engraving. 213. Moira House Old engraving. 217. Leinster House, from Kildare Street . . Old engraving. 219. Leinster House, from Merrion Square . . Old engraving. 227. Kildare Street Club and Nassau Street . . R. Barton. 232. Chimney-piece, decorated by Angelica Kauffmann, in the Royal Academy of Music, Westland Row R. Barton. 239. Famous Pear Tree, No. 14, Merrion Square .

R. Barton. 247. Fountain erected by the Duke of Rutland, 1784 • • R. Barton. 251. Rotunda and New Rooms, 1784 . . . Old engraving. 259. Viceregal Lodge, 1784 Old engraving. 260. Viceregal Lodge, 1897 R. Barton. c ■*-•) Illustrations PAGE 261. Avenue of Elm Trees R. Barton. 264. Lady Emily Peel and Mr. Walter Creyke in Still Waters Run Deep, 1868 Photograph. 265. The Earl of Carlisle as "Potter" in Still Waters Run Deep, 1868 Photograph. 267. View of the Lodge from the spot where Lord Frederick Cavendish and Mr. Burke were murdered R. Barton. 273. Kilmainham (front view) Chancellor. 275. Kilmainham (side view) R. Barton. 281. Marine School, looking up the Liffey .... Engraving. 283. Luttrellstown Photograph. 289. Brass Castle, Chapelizod R. Barton. 291. The Liffey, near Lucan ...... Photograph. 293.

The Bridge at Lucan Photograph. 295. The Weir in Captain Colthurst Vesey's Grounds . Photograph. 2gy. Salmon Leap, Leixlip Photograph. 298. Leixlip Castle Photograph. 299. Celbridge Abbey R. Barton. 301. Celbridge Abbey, portion inhabited by Vanessa . R. Barton. 315. St. Anne's, Clontarf, the residence of Lord Ardilaun . Photograph. 319. Grand Hall, St. Anne's ...... Photograph. 325. Howth Castle . . R. Barton. 331. Curious Stump of a Tree at Howth Castle . . . R. Barton. 339. Delville, Glasnevin R. Barton. 343. The Temple, Delville R. Barton. 347. Oriel Window, Delville R. Barton. 365. Fortfield, Terenure, the residence of John Hatchell, Esq. .......... Photograph. 379. Frescati, Blackrock ....... R. Barton. 387. Sorrento Cottage, Dalkey, the residence of Sir Francis Brady Photograph. 392.

Portrait of Lady Cadogan ...... Lafayette. 402. Portrait of Lady Iveagh Lafayette. 413. Portrait of Lady Annesley Lafayette. 415. Portrait of Lady Mayo Lafayette. AUTHORITIES CONSULTED. " Dublin City." Sir John Gilbert. " A Description of the City of Dublin, 1755." The Art Journal for September and October, 1896. " Memoirs Concerning the City of Dublin in 1755-56." " Personal Sketches." Sir Jonah Barrington. Walker's Hibernian Magazine. " Personal Recollections." Lord Cloncurry. Autobiography of Mrs. Delany, Vol. I. Ann GRANVILLE. " The Irish Sketch Book." William Makepeace Thackeray. Lady Sundon's Memoirs. Katherine Thomson. "An Essay on the Resources of the Regions of the King." Earl of Aldborough. Life of J. Philpot Curran. Phillips "■ Ireland : its Scenery." Mrs. S. C. Hall Wraxall's Memoirs.

Cyrus Redding's Memoirs. " Charles Fulke Greville." Reeve. " Reminiscences of my Irish Journey." Thomas Carlyle. "The Sham Squire," etc. Dr. W. J. FitzPatrick. " Old Dublin." Wakeman. " Memorable Houses." Harrison. The Lrish Builder. Articles by Mr. Evans. " Irish Varieties." Herbert. " The Child of a Resident Nobility." Old Pamphlet. Dublin Directories for 1897-98. Dictionary of Dublin. MacDowel Cosway. " Irish Varieties." Gaskin. Sullivan's Dublin Guide Book. Articles from Lrish Times, Freeman' s Journal, private letters, diaries,. information. I 1 DUBLIN CASTLE. Castle of Dublin. — Ancient History. — The Worst Castle in Christendom.— Upper and Lower Castle Yards. — Curious Trial by Combat. — Higher Functions of the Upper Castle Yard. — State Apartments. — Amusing History of the Old Days in the Castle. — St. Patrick's Hall. — Trooping of the Colours on St. Patrick's Day. — The Banquet and Ball. — Curious Dancing. — Levees and Drawing-Rooms. — Melrose by Candle-light. — The Kissing Viceroys. — Story of Lord Anglesey. — The Superiority over St. James's in the Matter of the Masculine Element. — The Incoming of the Viceroys. — State Visits to the Theatre. — Bazaars, Concerts. — Story of Bluefacing.

Chapter I. Dublin Castle

"The seat of this city is of all sides pleasant, comfortable, and whole some ; if you would breathe hills, they are not far off, if champaign ground, it lieth of all parts; if you be delighted with fresh water, the famous river called the Liffey runneth fast by ; if you will take a view of the sea, it is at hand." — Stanihurst (Old Chronicler). MR. FROUDE, whose testimony as regards Ireland is not certainly biased by warmth of friendship, has declared that " it is an enchanted country " ; and if we go back to its earlier days, we would be inclined to say that he is right, for here did dwell giants and fairies, King Arthur's Knights and fair demoiselles like " la belle Isolde," with whose story we are now familiar through the music of the great Wagner. According to .Stanihurst, Isolde lived at Izod's Tower, which was situated at Dame's Gate, close to the river's side.

This fact points to some sort of city being in existence at the time Tristran was sent to fetch his uncle's bride. This question of the actual date when Dublin could be called a city is hard to decide, so many conflicting testimonies exist. Antiquarians tell us that Ptolemy speaks of Eblana as a magnificent city. This statement would seem to be a polite exaggeration on the part of the Greek geographer, for the prefix Dun Picturesque Dublin -*- to the word " Eblana " in the Celtic tongue means fort, not " city " ; but it may be that Ptolemy was not aware of this. From the time Ptolemy mentions Eblana, we hear no more of Dublin until it turns up as Drum-choll-coil, which is a pretty name signifying " the brow of a hazel wood," the wood at that time surrounding the town, which was nothing more than a straggling village.

At a later period it figures as Bally-ath-cleath, pronounced, we are told by experts, " Blacleea." This, translated into English, means " a town on the ford of the hurdles." The ford was across the River Liffey, and the bridge, or passage, was roughly made of hurdles laid upon the marshy portion of the rude harbour : hence the name Learn Cleath, from "learn," harbour, "death," hurdle. On the northern bank of the river the old town was built on the site of Cork Hill, Christchurch Place, Fishamble Street, etc. Here, after St. Patrick visited the island, rose St. Patrick's Cathedral ; and St. Mary's Abbey dates from the same period. It was during the occupation of the country by the Danes that " Dublinn," or the Dark Pool, as it was called by the strangers, was made the capital of the country.

Up to this date Tara in Meath took precedence, being the chief town. This, however, did not suit the invaders, who wished to have a stronghold near to the sea. These Otmen, or Northmen, made Dublinn into a fortified town. The rest of the story is well known : how the Danes were beaten at the Battle of Clontarf, but their power not altogether subdued — they remained CHAl'EL ROYAL, CASTLE YARL -»> Dublin Castle in a quarter of the city, where traces of their occupation are still evident ; how they sowed dissensions and caused many troubles ; how romance came into the story, as it often does in the history of countries. Dermot McMorrogh, King of Leinster, had appro priated the wife of the Prince of Breffua. Breffua's cause was championed by O'Connor, King of Ireland, who advanced upon the monarch of Leinster (probably his virtuous championship had for its real object the annexation of the province).

McMorrogh, who was wonderfully astute, fled to England, and laid his allegiance at the feet of Henry II., who snapped it up greedily, and despatched forthwith the great Strangu leusis, or Stringuil, commonly called Strongbow, Lord of Chepstow, to subdue O'Connor, which he very effectually did ; and likewise Asculf McToreal, the former and rightful King of Ireland, who, hearing* that a row was going on, thought it a good time to strike in. Asculf sailed up the Liffey with a fleet of sixty Norwegian ships, curious conical-shaped things, which were " andled," says Cambriensis, "by a Norwegian of gigantic stature, commonly called John the Mad, from his furious manner of fighting." But not even Mad John could make head against the Anglo-Normans, and Asculf was beheaded and Mad John slain in battle.

Strongbow then married the beautiful Eva, daughter to the traitor McMorrogh. The wedded pair abode in Ireland, and Stringuil is buried in Christ Church Cathedral. It was during the government of FitzHenry, who succeeded Strongbow, that the Norman invaders set to building a fortress round which they could gather their trusty followers. They had need of some such defence against the native Irish, who, driven from their homes, had taken refuge in the woods and mountains, whence they could make predatory onslaughts upon their conquerors, and take reprisal for their wrongs. One sanguinary reprisal took place one Easter Monday, when five hundred of the citizens of Bristol, to whom King Henry had presented the City of Dublin, crossed over in boats to view their new acquisition, and have a couple of days' pleasuring.

They were enjoying them selves mightily, when, on a sudden, descended the wild hordes from the mountains, and of the Bristol holiday makers none returned to tell the tale. This mis adventure quickened FitzHenry's resolve to erect a strong fortress against sudden attacks, and in 1205 he commenced building the ancient Castle of Dublin, which, when finished, made a stout defence against the attacks of the turbulent natives. Its position was one of great security. Standing half-way up the hill now called Cork Hill (then outside the town), it commanded the city, and was well fortified in case of sudden attack. It was entered on the north side by crossing a draw bridge between two round towers, the westward of which was taken down in 1766. A portcullis armed with iron was erected between these two towers, and served as a second defence in case the drawbridge should be captured by the enemy.

A high curtain or wall extended from the westward tower, called Cork Tower, to the Birmingham Tower, afterwards used as a prison. *-•> Dublin Castle From the Birmingham Tower another high curtain or wall continued to the Wardrobe Tower, and thence to Stove House Tower, near Dames' Gate ; and from there it was carried on to the eastern gateway tower at the entrance of the Castle, this being furthermore surrounded by a deep moat. The fortress is said to have been built in the short space of fifteen years, which may in some way account for its going to ruin with sudden rapidity, for in Queen Elizabeth's reign we find that a royal mandate was issued that the Castle of Dublin should be repaired and enlarged so as to make a fitting residence for the newly appointed Governor of Ireland. It cannot be said that her Majesty's wishes were carried out in a satisfactory manner, for in 1688 Lord Arran complains that it was the " worst castle in the worst situation in Christendom." ' Dublin Castle has been little altered since this verdict was passed upon it.

No one can say it is either picturesque or possessed of architectural merit. 1 The occasion which called for this remark from Lord Arran was a fierce fire which broke out in the Castle in April, 16SS. It burned the bed on which Lord Arran was lying; fortunately he had time to escape. It was only by destroying the gallery which communicated with the powder magazine that a frightful explosion was prevented. "What damage your Grace and I have suffered by this accident," writes Lord Arran to his father the Duke of Ormonde, Viceroy of Ireland, " I cannot yet learn ; but I find the King has lost nothing except six barrels of powder and the worst castle in the worst situation in Christendom." It is strange that later on, when the King had agreed do build a new castle, it was this same Lord Arran who prevented* the undertaking, declaring that if the walls were lowered to the height of thirty feet it might be made a wholesome residence.