Wah-to-yah, and the Taos Trail; or Prairie travel and scalp dances, with a look at Los Rancheros from Muleback and the Rocky Mountain Campfire

Front matter

WAH-TO-YAH, AND THE TAOS TRAIL; O R. prairie Crawl anb $nilp lances, WITH A LOOK AT LOS RANCHEROS FROM MULEBACK AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN CAMPFIRE. BY. LEWIS H. GARRARD CINCINNATI: PUBLISHED BY H. W. DERBY & CO. NEW YORK — A. S. BARNES & CO. 1850. Entered according to act os Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, by H. W. Derby & Co., in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the District of Ohio. Cincinnati: H. W. Derby 8; Co., Printers. TO MR. ST. VRAIN — The leader of our party — the traverser OF THE PLAINS THE REVERED OF THE CHEYENNE NA TION THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY ONE WHO HOLDS IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE HIS MANY KIND SERVICES. INTRODUCTORY. In offering this little volume to the public, I must, in self-justice, be briefly introduced, so that the obliging pe ruser, with all the facts before him, may extend a benevo lent forbearance, and restrain too severe a criticism on this, my first essay.

In February, 1 846, being then in my seventeenth year, I tossed away schoolbooks, and glided down the Missis sippi River, and along the Mexican Gulf, to Texas ; and, shortly after, back to the Louisiana coast, where I stayed until the middle of May, visiting friends, riding horses, and shooting alligators, duck, and rail, from the bow of a long canoe in the cypress swamps. Returning home, the glowing pages of Fremont's tour to the Rocky Mountains in 1842-'43, were so alluring to my fancy, that my parents were persuaded to let me go westward ; and they, furnishing letters of credit, cash,. a pocket bible, and rifle, with a few calico shirts, started me to St. Louis, on a low-water steamer, in the hot month of July. The miseries of running " hard aground " on sandbars in the sweltering sun ; a surfeit of sleep, and "James's last," with an occasional peep at the leaves of my testament, were the most striking incidents, until reaching the narrow St. Louis wharf — where, amid th& din of importunate hotel attaches, I passed my baggage into safe hands, and, threading the busy throng, entered my name on the Planters' House books.

Through the kindness of Colonel A. B. Chambers, of the- Missouri Republican, I was made acquainted with the firns of Pierre Choteau, Jr., & Co., to whose numerous forts in

Introduction

. VI the Indian Territory, I was given a letter of recommenda tion. Mr. Kenneth McKenzie, one of the first traders with the Black Feet Indians, treated me and my many queries, with even more lenity than I could reasonably expect. Mr. St. Vrain, of the firm of Bent, St. Vrain & Co., Indian and Mexican traders, was at the Planters', and soon to start for the Rocky Mountains and Santa F6 ; on his kindly consenting to accept me in his mess, Colonel Chambers furnished additional letters. My elder brothers wished me to note the occurring events, for their gratification. It was done, though in a desultory style. Abominable chills and fevers greeted my return to civilization , and it was through the intervals of study, that the scanty pencilings have thus been aug mented — and not until the greater portion was written, had I the hardihood to think of publishing.

Then, the request of friends, coupled with the bidding'of a pardonable vanity, produced them in the present form. I have thought proper to so entitle the work, as my wanderings were in sight of the Spanish Peaks, and along the Taos Trail. The accent, in pronouncing Wah-to-yah, is on the second syllable. Taos is pronounced Touse, as in house — the Spanish Mexican accent, however, beinc prolonged on the word, as Ta-ouse. Should any account be deemed either meager or ful some, I cheerfully apologise with the single remonstrance — it has at least the merit of truthfulness. Imagination plays but a very minor part ; and in no instance as to give an improper conception of scene, time or manner. An accusation of grossness may be raised, and that the characters use seemingly uncalled-for expressions.

I have naught set down in malice, and it is no more my preroga tive to exclude than to add. \£) QC CONTENTS. PAGE. Chapter I. The Start, 1 II. The Trail, 27 III. The Village, 44 IV. Peculiarities, 60 V. The Fort, 75 VI. The Dance, 91 VII. Strangers and Drawbacks, 99 VIII. The SnowTramp, Ill IX. Prospective Trouble, 127 X. El Rio de las Animas, 138 XI. El Rio Vermejo, 157 XII. El Rancho, 171 XIII. El Valle de Taos, 185 XIV. El Consejo, 195 XV. San Fernandez, 199 XVI. Los Pueblos, 210 XVII. El Muerte, 219 XVIII. Adios ! 232 XIX. Wah-to-yah, 232 XX. The Farm, 266 XXI. The Arkansas, 283 XXII. Service, 297 XXIII. The Welcome Arrival, 307 XXIV. The Brush, 336 XXV. Farewell! WAH-TO-YAH.

Chapter I. The Start

Having made all necessary preparations, such as faying in a good store of caps, fine, glazed powder, etc.; and having seen the shot towers, French Town, public and private buildings ; at the instance of Mr. St. Vrain, our worthy chef du voyage, I crammed my purchases, clothes, etc., in my trunk, put it in charge of the porter, and walked to the steamer Saluda, bound for Kansas, on the Missouri River, with many kind wishes uttered in my behalf; and, after the third tolling of the bell, and in obedience to the signals of the pilot, we were stemming the uninviting, yellow Mississippi. I knew no one, and was left to range of thought and a poor "Havana" without interruption; but, amid the "talk" of fellow passengers, who, in arm chairs and feet on the boat railing, were twisting their necks to gaze at a very common-looking man in a check-linen coat and trowsers ; I learned that their " center of attraction " was Mr. Edwards, the Gov ernor regnant of Missouri.

On scrutiny, the coun tenance of Mr. Edwards indicated considerable ■ ) WAH-TO-YAH AND shrewdness ; but, altogether, he fell below my ideas of a governor. At the mouth of the Missouri River, the mingling of the waters was no less novel than curious. A volume of water, from the muddy and rapid Mis souri, sent by the force of the under current far out in the transparent Mississippi, would boil up to the surface, contrasting oddly enough. We had a pleasant trip to Kansas, but the turbid stream and mud bluff banks, destroy the pleasing effects generally attendant on northern rivers. Colonel Chick, the principal man at Kansas, treated me kindlyduring my stay, and with his clever sons, the horse ferry, skiffs, and duck shooting, afforded entertainment. To mysurprise, Mr. T. B. Drinker, formerly an editor of a paper in Cincinnati, advanced toward me, after looking at the name on my trunk, and introduced himself.

We were together much of the time while waiting for Mr. St. Vrain and company to arrive from St. Louis, with whom we expected to traverse the prairie as far as Bent's Fort. The Wyandotte is the nearest Indian tribe to Kansas ; and, one afternoon, Mr. Drinker and my self visited the agent, Doctor Hewitt. A walk of a mile, through woods on the river bank, brought us to the mouth of the Kansas, or Kaw River, a stream ferried by a tall, good specimen of a full-blood Wy andotte, who received the toll with a look, as if to say, " Your money 's no account, and I 've a mind to toss y-ou in the river for offering it ;" our attempts at conversation failed. Mr. Walker, with whom we had previously be come acquainted, is one of the first men of the tribe, once editor of the " Wyandotte Advocate." Mr. Armstrong is also an intelligent gentleman ; he has a while wife, a good farm, and (the year I saw him) was to receive ten thousand dollars improvement money for his farm in Ohio, which state he, with the rest of the nation, were forced to vacate three years previous.

Returning from our visit, Mr. Drinker walked on out of sight, while I shot repeatedly and ineffectually at a woodpecker. On the third discharge of my rifle, a heavy hand was laid on my shoulder, accompanied by a firm grip. I jumped around, to con front a drunken Indian, whose face was red with paint and blood ; and, holding in his free hand a broken bottle, he said, " You bad, you shoot, you scare me," and he tightened his grasp on my collar. " No, T did n't, sir, — I didn't mean to scare you, sir," replied I in a tremulous voice ; but, seeing that would not do, I changed tack, and edged in, " Do n't you want a -bit' to buy liquor;" and, as he held out his hand, I left in a hurry. Drinker and I, hiring horses, rode through the town of Westport, and galloped over the undulating prairie, studded with plum bushes and small oak.

Emerging into the bare plain, we saw a group of men busied in loading a wagon, of which there WAH-TO-YAH AND were some twenty or more, drawn up in the form of a pen. Mr. Bransford, the gentleman in charge, received my " letters " with the prairie welcome of, " won't you make camp ? " We were invited to stay until Mr. St. Vrain would arrive; and in two days our trunks were there. Every morning we rode to Westport, and saw the different Indians, in fanciful dresses, riding in to trade and look around (on their handsome ponies). Some of the squaws were possessed of good fea tures, though gross forms ; and both men and wo men were debased by liquor. The laws are not stringent enough on this point. The unsophisticated Indian, too much exposed to the seductive language of the unprincipled trader in liquor, soon barters away all his valuables and annuity money.

Heretofore we had been sleeping under a tent made of wagon sheets, but the freight had arrived at Kansas, the sheets taken from us, and the wagons sent to be loaded ; from that" time we reposed in the open ah, which, at first, was refreshing, invig orating, life-inspiring. I used to lay admiring the bright stars until overpowered by sleep. There were eighteen or twenty Canadian French men (principally from St. Louis), composing part of our company, as drivers of the teams. As I have ever been a lover of sweet, simple music, their beautiful and piquant songs, in the original language, fell most harmoniously on the ear, as we lay wrapped in our blankets. On the first of September, Mr. St. Vrain's arrival infused some life into our proceedings, but nothing more worthy of note occurred, except riding and looking at horses, of which Drinker and I were in need ; one of which, Frank De Lisle, " le maitre de wagon " sold me for fifty dollars, whom, from his fan ciful color, brown and white spots, and white eyes, was designated, by the descriptive though not euphonious name of, " Paint."

He was a noted buffalo chaser, and I anticipated much excitement through his services. The way the mules were broken to wagon harness, would have astonished the " full-blooded " animals of Kentucky and other horse-raising states exceedingly. It is a treatment none but hardy Mexican or scrub mules could survive. They first had to be lassoed by our expert Mexican, Bias, their heads drawn up to a wagonwheel, with scarce two inches of spare rope to relax the tight noose on their necks, and starved for twenty-four hours to subdue their fiery tempers ; then harnessed to a heavy wagon, lashed unmercifully when they did not pull, whipped still harder when they ran into still faster speed, until, after an hour's bewilderment, and plunging, and kicking, they became tractable and broken down — a labor-saving operation, with the unflinching motto of " kill or cure."

In the afternoon, of the 12th of September, the train rolled out — the heavily laden, high before and behind, Pennsylvania wains careering from side to side in the ruts, the shouts of the drivers to the newly-yoked teams, and the vaya, hu-a, caraho, of 1- WVH-TO-YAH AND Bias and his two fellow-Mexican herders, and the cabtdlada* imparted a freshness and added vigor to our movements ; horsemen going to and fro for things forgotten and missing, Mr. St. Vrain and De Lisle, passing and re-passing from one end of the train to examine the strength and capabilities of the weaker wagons ; and ourselves, with new com panions, talking and chirruping to our horses, slowly bringing up the rear, gave an appearance of effi ciency and progress. Amid the bustle the foremost teams and ourselves reached the " Delaware Spring " after dark, and the whips and shouts applied to the sluggish oxen, of the lagging teams, did not cease until far in the night.

Our horses were turned out to graze, the blankets unstrapped from the saddles, and we laid down supperless. This was a most desirable spot for camping, as wood, grass, and a running, limpid stream were close at hand. It is generally the first day's drive. On the 16th we encamped at the " Lone Elm," in the midst of a hard rain, which poured on us the entire day ; and, the wagons being full of goods, and we without tents, a cheerless, chilling, soaking, wet night was the consequence. As the water penetrated, successively, my blankets, coat, and shirt, and made its way down my back, a cold shudder came over me ; in the gray, foggy morning a more pitiable set of hungry, shaking wretches were never seen. Oh ! but it was hard on the poor greenhorns ! *IIcnl of horses and mules. On the 18th (we still at the "Lone Elm"), a Shawnee Indian rode into camp from out of the high bottom grass to the south, informing us that another Indian had three oxen marked with the company's brand, ")-B," upon which intelligence, Messrs. St. Vrain and Bransford started in pursuit, returning with fifteen yoke.

On the 19th, the train was started along the heavy road ; dense fogs dampened our clothing and spirits, and but for brandy, and other liquors, fever and ague would have predominated ; as it was, Bias and Pierre shook, for which, " chola gogue," " quinine," and pills were administered by the " doctor," as I was styled. Beauvais and I made quite a detour through the prairie, during which we saw two deer, several prairie chickens, and obtained fine views of the adjacent country. That night we encamped on " Bull Creek ;" and, on the 29th, at a most delightfully gushing fountain, Big John Spring, flowing from the hill side, all stopped and drank. As we are all collected, it would be well to state the size and intention of the company. It was com manded by St. Vrain, an old mountaineer of the firm of Bent, St. Vrain & Co., Indian and Mexi can traders.

The firm is rich, and owner of several forts, of which Bent's, or Fort William, on the Ar kansas river, is the principal. Mr. St. Vrain was a srentleman in the true sense of the term, his French descent imparting an exquisite, indefinable degree of politeness, and, combined with the frankness of an ingenuous mountain man, made him an amiable fellow traveler. His kindness and respect toward me, I shall always gratefully remember. Mr. Folger, another of our company, was a gentleman, so wed ded to a roving prairie life, that he has accompanied Mr. St. Vrain, for several yrears, in pure love of ad venture. His mule, " David," was a comical, antiquated animal ; the study of the expression of his grizzled phiz, was truly laughable ; and much merriment was caused by the master's sensible and af fectionate advice and consolation to David.

Mr. Beauvais was a Frenchman, employed to trade with the Sioux Indians ; Frank De Lisle, a clever fellow, the wagon master, or director — an officer of trust ; Bransford was clerk to the company ; and General Lee, of St. Louis, Beaubien, of New Mexico, and Drinker and myself, of Cincinnati, con stituted our mess. There were, besides, twenty three teamsters, and the same number of wagons ; every man armed, equipped, and ready (if forced upon us) for a fight with the " yellow skins." On the 30th September, we arrived at Council " Grove" — considered the best camping spot on the road. On the west skirt of the belt of timber, un der the wide-spreading protection of a huge oak. was a diminutive blacksmith's shop, sustained by government, for the purpose of repairing wagons en route to the army at Santa Fe.

We remained, for two days, at the " Grove," to recruit the oxen, after the heavy pulling from West port, and as this is the last place (traveling west ward) where hard timber can be procured, the men were busy felling hickories and oaks for spare axletrees, and swinging the rough hewn pieces un der their wagons. I took my rifle in search of a flock of turkeys, whose tantalizing piping was easily heard from camp, and in the evening, Beauvais and I washed our shirts — my first essay — in the clear brook ; succeeding tolerably, only. What a pleasing appearance have the dark-green fringes of timber, standing far out in the prairie, lit up and variegated by the early tints of fall. I have been extremely delighted, since setting out, with the lovely scenery — a too vivid picture of which can not be portrayed.

On leaving Council Grove, the verdure and scenery change ; the grass is much shorter, partaking of none of the luxuriant growth of the herbage a few days back ; wooded creeks become scarce, and tim bered principally with sweet cottonwood. The maneuvers of the Mexicans of our company, are reallyastonishing in lassoing unruly mules and horses ; dodge as they may, or run about, the lariat noose is sure to fall on their unwilling necks ; a loop 1 hro wn over the nose, the gagging Spanish bit forced into the mouth, the saddle clapped on, and the rider firmly in that, with galling spurs, tickles the side ribs, and flies and curvetts on the plain in less time than it can be written. But it does confound an animal to have a Mexican horse furniture, and rider strapped on to him ! Mr. St. Vrain started in advance of the train, with three or four persons, for Bent's Fort, but meeting a return government train, who reported the Indians troublesome, he waited for us to come up, preferring slow travel, and a large company, to a small party and uncertain possession of his scalp.

Toward eleven o'clock, in the morning, we arrived at Cotton wood Fork — a small stream, so called from the number of cotton wOods growing on its banks. One of the wagons overturned while crossing, breaking two boxes of claret. Those around had a treat most unexpectedly. A government train crossed soon after ; and, at sundown, Captain Thompson, U. S. Dragoons, and Lieutenant Colonel of the Mor mon Battallion, arrived with three light wagons, and an escort of ten dragoons. He gave us the latest news. In the morning, he was off early, in a gallop ; his wagons, with clean, tightly drawn sheets, and four fast mules attached, showed well, coursing up the hill at a rapid rate. We could not leave camp that day. De Lisle was under a wagon containing forty-five hundred weight of freight, making some repairs, one wheel being off and propped up by a board, when the support gave way, and the wagon fell, confining him to the earth.

His cries drew the men together, and while the wagon was lifted off him, he was drawn from under, almost dead. He was so far recovered that the next day we traveled. So soon as a faint streak of light appears in the east, the cry " turn out," is given by De Lisle ; all rise, and, in half an hour, the oxen are yoked, hitched, and started. For the purpose of bringing everything within a small compass, the wagons are corallcd ; that is, arranged in the form of a pen, when camp is made ; and as no animals in that countrv are caught without a lasso, they are much easier noosed if driven in the coral. There, no depend ence must be placed in any one but one's self; and the sooner he rises, when the cry is given, the easier can he get his horse. Like all persons on the first trip, I was green in the use of the lasso, and Paint was given to all sorts of malicious dodging ; perhaps I have not worked myself into a profuse perspiration w-ith vexation a hundred and one times, in vain attempts to trap him.

Not being able to catch my horse this morning, I hung my saddle on a wagon and walked, talking to the loquacious Canadians, whose songs and stories were most acceptable. They are a queer mixture anyhow, these Canadians ; rain or shine, hungry or satisfied, they are the same garrulous, careless fel lows ; generally carolling in honor of some brunette Vide Poche, or St. Louis Creole beauty-, or lauding, in the words of their ancestry, the soft skies and grateful wine of La Belle France ; occa sionallyr uttering a sacre, or enfant de garce, but suf fering no cloud of ill humor to overshadow them but for a moment. While walking with a languid step, cheering up their slow oxen, a song would burst out from one end of the train to the other, producing a most charming effect. On the 6th of October, we met a government train, from Santa Fe, which reported buffalo in plenty ten miles ahead ; and, about four o'clock in the afternoon, Edmond Paul, near whom I was walking, shouted " bison!

" pointing with his whip to the westward, where were several running ; and soon disappearing in the mirage, which transformed them into huge, shapeless masses. The first time I ever witnessed the mirage was in Texas. The friend, with whom I was riding, pointed toward the illusion, with the remark : " What a beautiful lake ;" and it was not until we found it to be receding at our approach, that we were unde ceived. We encamped on a slope, using " bois de vache " (dried buffalo excrement), for want of better fuel. We, on horses, selected the camp before the wagons came up ; Mr. St. Vrain and I ; Folger and Chad wick ; and Drinker and Bransford, each pair taking an apishiamore (saddle blanket), would collect our blankets full of the fuel (for the " wood " lies in all directions), bring up to the intended fire, and off again, until a pile several feet high would be collected.

It burns well and freely, catching the steel sparks like tinder ; but, being light, is soon fanned into a hot coal, and turns immediately to ashes. Wind prevails to such an extent on the prairie, that no ashes are ever seen about a camp a day or two after the fire is made ; nothing but black spots on the ground mark the site. Mr. St. Vrain and companions brought in the choice parts of a buffalo, and every person was busied in cooking on their " own hook," and swallowing the tender meat. For the first night or two after entering the buffalo region, we were serenaded by the Coyrote wolf, a species of music much like a com mingled bark, whine, y-elp, and occasionally a spas modic laugh, now tenor, now basso ; then one would take a treble solo, and, after an ear-piercing prelude, all would join in chorus, mailing an indescribable discord.

In the morning the train started as usual ; Mr. St. Vrain, Drinker, Bransford, Folger, and I, left the trail for a buffalo hunt, intending to make a large circuit before meeting the wagons. I had a shot ata large white wolf — the first we had seen. He was loping around camp, when my shrill whistle brought him to a stand still ; at the sharp crack of my rifle, the keen-faced stranger took to the plain. Their presence indicates the vicinity of buffalo. All were on the qui vive for the new game, and Mr. St. Vrain, who was in the lead, " motioned," with his hand, for us to lean forward on our horses, so as to keep the buffalo from seeing us. In a little while we dismounted in a hollow, and all but Bransford and I, who were left in charge of the horses, " approached " a band of bulls. At the report of the guns we led the animals toward them.

" No meat," was the answer to our queries. The whole country was cut up with innumerable buffalo paths, intersecting one another at all possible angles. Mr. St. Vrain on my horse, and Drinker on his own, started in pursuit of a band, and their movements were most exciting. Being without a horse, I waited on the prairie, looking at the flying buffalo, ten or twelve of whom came tearing toward me as I lay in the grass, but they looked so frightful when within thirty yards, I jumped up and fired, without any perceptible effect, as they slightly turned and lumbered on. We never eat but twice a day, very often but once in twenty-four hours, at which scarcity' of food, of course, there was grumbling. Bransford, who disliked it very much, said, after having concealed his feelings some length of time, " Darn this way of living, anyhow ; a feller starves a whole day like a mean ' coyote,' and when he docs eat, he stuffs himself like a snake that 's swallowed a frog, and is no account for an hour after."

It was about the truth, for our ravenous appetites scarcely knew bounds. More buffalo in sight the third day than hereto fore — the plain literally covered. We crossed " Big Cow Creek," but no cows were seen, and thinking best to secure meat, such as it was, while an opportunity presented, our worthy leader approached a band of bulls and fired, bringing down one. It is with difficulty that buffalo can be approached, it requir ing a skillful person who will not permit the keen scented animal to get to his leeward, or in sight ; for they run when a person is in view as far as a mile, and from the scent still further ; so we waited, with suppressed breathing, for the report of the rifle. There lay a fine, fat, young male — ere long he was on his knees (for the hump prevents his being placed on his back), and the hide off.

The men ate the liver raw, with a slight dash of gall by way of zest, which served a la Irulian, was not very tempting to cloyed appetites ; but to hungry men, not at all squeamish, raw, warm liver, with raw marrow, was quite palatable. Before the buffalo range was half traversed, I liked the novel dish pretty well. It would not do for small hunting parties to build fires to cook with ; for, in this hostile Indian country, .a smoke would bring inquiring friends. Speaking of hostile Indians, reminds me of a question related by one of our men : At a party, in a Missouri frontier settlement, a lady asked a mountaineer, fresh from the Platte, " if the hostile Indians are as savage as those who serve on foot ! " Returning to camp, the prairie was black with the herds ; and, a good chance presenting itself, I struck spurs into Paint, directing him toward fourteen or fifteen of the nearest, distant eight or nine hundred yards.

We (Paint and I) soon neared them, giving me a flying view of their unwieldy proportions, and, when within fifteen feet of the nearest, I raised my rifle half way to the face, and fired. Reloading, still in hot pursuit (tough work to load on a full run), I followed, though without catching up. One feels a delightfully wild sensation when in pursuit of a band of buffalo, on a fleet horse, with a good rifle, and without a hat, the winds playing around the flushed brow, when with hair streaming, the rider nears the frightened herd, and, with a shout of exultation, discharges his rifle. I returned to the party highly gratified with my first, though unsuccessful, chase ; but Mr. St. Vrain put a slight damper to my ardor, by simply remarking — " The next time you ' run meat,' don't let the horse go in a trot, and yourself in a gallop" (I had, in my eagerness, leaned forward in the saddle, and a stum ble of the horse would have pitched me over his head) ; by which well-timed and laconic advice, I afterward profited.

We encamped on " Cow Creek ;" the buffalo around us in every direction ; now lost in the mirage, now •ippearing, some herds wending slowly to an over flowing slue near camp, and others (the males) who, - trutting in all the pomp of conscious dignity and supremacy, until a whiff of wind from camp is wafted to them, would lift their tails on high, scud before the wind, up and down, like a ship in short seas. Two staid old fellows came to the pond; af ter a half hour's crawhng on our knees (Chadwick, Tibeau and I), drawing our guns after us ; then, when the buffaloes' backs were turned, running a few steps, then stopping and crawling again, all the ime closely watching the sagacious animals, who would stop short every little while to give a side glance around them, we fired, bringing one to his knees.