Barnstaple: 1837-1897 ... With illustrations

Preface

. THIS series of sketches appeared originally in the North Devon Journal. The articles were not written with a view to publication in book form. It was only in deference to the wishes of many friends — who urged that it was desirable that the information contained in the articles should be made easily accessible for purposes of reference — that I went outside my original intention and arranged for the separate issue of the series. I wish to disclaim any attempt to produce a "history," using the term in its accepted sense. My object was to picture the changes — physical, municipal, industrial, political, and social — which have taken place at Barnstaple since 1837, the idea having been naturally suggested by the celebration of the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. I have confined myself to a bare recital of facts.

I have simply collected and classified material — much of which was, I may say, in danger of being lost — which may prove serviceable to the future historian of Barnstaple. I have considered it advisable to preserve the form in which the sketches appeared in the Journal, but I have revised the various sections, and have in some cases embodied additional information. Gribble's " Memorials " remain the recognised History of Barnstaple, although the labours of the late Mr. J. R. Chanter and Mr. T. Wainwright have within the past twenty years thrown much additional light on the early history of the borough, while Mr. R. W. Cotton has produced a splendid record of Barnstaple during the Civil War. These sketches may be regarded as a kind of supplement to the "Memorials," bringing the story of the borough down to 1897.

In order that the sequence might be preserved, I have in some instances taken up the story at the point where Gribble left off instead of strictly confining myself to the Victorian Era.

PREFACE.

. I desire to gratefully acknowledge the kindly co-operation which has been extended to me by many Barumites who have been able to speak from personal experience as to the leading local events of the period under review. In selecting the illustrations I gave preference to pictures relating to features which have disappeared. I did so because such memorials of old Barnstaple are scarce, and because cheap photography has brought pictorial representations of the Barnstaple of to-day within the reach of all. I am specially indebted to the ladies and gentlemen who have lent pictures for reproduction in this work. The record of Barnstaple during the past sixty years is one of which every Barumite may well be proud. What will the future bring ? If the next sixty years produce as many changes for the better as it has been my privilege to attempt to describe in these sketches, even the most ardent admirer of dear old Barum should be more than satisfied.

WILLIAM FRANCIS GARDINER. December, 1897. CONTENTS. CHAPTER. PAGE. I. Early History— A Picture of 1837. Growth tested by Statistics ...... 1 II. Story of Extension : A Striking Transformation - 11 III. From Stage Coach to Railway Express - 20 IV. Parks and Pleasure Grounds : Quays - - - 30 v. Evolution of the Post Office - - - - 38 VI. The Markets : Municipal Enterprise - - - 48 VII. Sixty years of the Public-house - - - 57 vill. Police : Prisons ------ 66 IX. Gas and Water Companies - - - - 73 X. Industrial Enterprise ----- 80 XI. Churches and Chapels - - - - - 92 XII. Educational Movements ----- 104 xin. Public Institutions - - - - 111 xiv. Political Contests and Changes - - - - 120 XV. Rise of Democracy : Building aud Friendly Societies 128 XVI. "Defence, not Defiance:" The Volunteer Movement 135 xvn.

Mayors, Clergy, and Civic and other Officers - - 145 xvill. Barnstaple Charities - 155 Xix. Pilton and Newport Charities - - - - 174 XX. The Bridge Trust - - - - - 185 XXI. Borough Finance - - - - - 191 XXII. Literary Record ------ 205 xxiii. Health Record - - - - - - 218 xxiv. Municipal Elections and Customs : Antiquarian Discoveries ---... 224 XXV. Odds and Ends - - - - - - 231 Index .----.. ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. Present View of Barnstaple from Sticklepath - - Frontispiece Barnstaple from Sticklepath, about 1837 - - - 9 Barnstaple from Sticklepath, about 1860 - - - 20 Barnstaple from Chestwood, about 1837 - - - 24 Taw Vale Parade : Cyprus Island - - - - 30 Quay Hall and Ancient Gate - - - - - 40 St. Nicholas' Chapel (Quay Hall) and Fish Shambles, about 1837 48 Typical Inns : Bull Inn and Northmolton Inn - - 57 Shipbuilding at Barnstaple : Westacott's Yard, about 1870 - 80 The North Gate ------- 104 William Frederick Rock - - - - - - 111 Queen Anne's Walk and Jubilee Schoolroom, to-day - - 136 Old Barnstaple : (1) High Street, showing Weekly Market and Old Guildhall ; (2) Quay, about 1837 - - BARNSTAPLE: 1837-1897.

Chapter I

Earlv -flisiori— ft £ icfure of 1837. GROWTH TESTED BY STATISTICS. At a time when schemes designed to commemorate what is popularly and conveniently termed "The Queen's Diamond Jubilee" are occupying the attention of Her Majesty's loyal subjects in the four quarters of the world — when the stupendous changes which have been effected during the English record reign are brought prominently before the notice of all classes of the community — it is not unfitting that a journalist should attempt to draw a picture of the town in which he resides as it stood when Queen Victoria ascended the Throne and to show how his own locality has shared in the onward and upward movement of the last sixty years. We enter upon the task, as far as Barnstaple is concerned, with much diffidence — but with great pleasure, for we are proud of the old borough, and are delighted to have an opportunity of telling, even though it may be only partially and inadequately, the story of its development during the most progressive period in British history.

For many of the particulars we shall give as to the condition of Barnstaple sixty years ago we are indebted to old residents ; and we shall be glad if anyone who is in a position to supplement in any important particular the information we have gleaned will favour us with his co-operation. In this way, we trust, will be preserved in convenient form material which will prove of considerable service to the future historian of Barnytaple. The history of a nation as presented by the records of units like towns forms a fascinating study. Few towns afford a richer field for research than Barnstaple. But in the present sketch only the briefest possible review in the way of an introduction is permissible. The antiquity of Barnstaple is undoubted. It is one of the oldest boroughs BARNSTAPLE : 1837 — 1897. 2 — if not absolutely the oldest — in the Kingdom.

Domesday describes Barnstaple as one of the four boroughs of Devon. The fact that the town lies iu the midst of the densest net-work of the ancient Roman and other roads is sufficient to prove its high antiquity and to show its importance in the days of old. It is supposed that it grew up round a military settlement, which is attributed by tradition to the Danes. At one time the town had a great reputation on account of its defences. During the Civil War, Sir Edward Hyde (afterwards Lord Clarendon, the historian), writing to Prince Rupert, said that " in truth, though I expected very much from Barnstaple, it far exceeded even that expectation, and considering all circumstances is the most miraculously fortified place that I know. I am confident it is the best provided to receive an enemy, especially as a magazine of victuals, of any town in England."

The ancient town (says North, in his " History of Devon ") stood in a rude triangle, bounded on two sides by the Taw and its tributary, the Yeo ; near the apex was the Castle ; landward the town was defended by a strong wall, the course of which is defined by Boutport Street ( — about-port, port being used in its old sense of town). The wall was continued along the course of the present Strand and Castle Street to the Castle, and it was carried from the north end of the Castle to the end of Boutport Street. Of this wall no vestige can now be found, and of the Castle only the mound remains. The gates were one by one removed, but two remained in 1837. The late Mr. J. R. Chanter, whose researches were of immense value, announced in a lecture given at Barnstaple in 1805 that a few years previously "perfect and distinct remains of the old fort were found at Fort Hill, the whole appearing to have been constructed with a perfection of plan and adaptation of situation which may well justify the encomiums of Sir Edward Hyde."

In 1860, it may be stated in passing, four cannon balls were found imbedded in the walls of old almshouses at Pilton — relics of the bombardments of the Civil Wars. The Corporation proper dates from Philip and Mary, but the town had sustained its prescriptive right to a Mayor two centuries before. The earliest charter extant is of Henry II. confirming one of Henry I., but it is on record that five hundred years ago Barnstaple claimed Athelstan as the author of its representative rights. Barnstaple returned members to Parliament without break from the time of Edward I. to 1885. Barnstaple was a port of note in the reign of Edward III., and it was one of the eight ports in England to which the importation of woollen goods from Ireland was limited by Stat. 12, GROWTH TESTED BY STATISTICS. George II., 1739.

Up to the beginning of the present century Barnstaple did a considerable import trade. Barnstaple once possessed the privilege of minting. The woollen industry flourished in the town at the close of the last century, a thousand hands at one time being employed at two factories. In 1774 baize-making was the great industry in the town. In 1803 the population was returned at 3,587, which had risen to 5,079 in 1821. When, in June, 1837, a man named Bailey rode round the streets of Barum on a white horse proclaiming the accession of Queen Victoria, the town was already beginning to feel the good effects of the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835. Enterprise and improvement were in the air. Municipal freedom was already promising to produce its natural fruit. But only a beginning had been made with the work of improvement.

In his " Memorials of Barnstaple" (published 1830) Gribble speaks enthusiastically of the beneficial effects of the Improvement Act of 1811. What would Barum's historian have said had he been able to see the manner in which the work commenced in his time was consummated ? As Gribble's chapter on " The present state of the town " (1830) gives an admirable picture of what Barnstaple was like in the early part of the century we quote it in full : — Barnstaple stands without a rival to her claim to be considered the Metropolis of North Devon. Thus it was in former times, aud thus it is now, whether we look at the extent of her population, her commerce, or her wealth. As a residence, the town is at once healthful, pleasant, commodious ; lying on the margin of a considerable river, aud but a few miles from the Bristol Channel, the inhabitants enjoy the invigorating effects of the sea breeze ; whilst the influx and reflux of the ever-changing tides, the arrival and departure of shipping, and the consequent commercial activity which prevails, afford a constant and pleasing variety of scene.

The regular but gradual ascent of the different streets from the water gives the important advantage of excellent drainage, so needful to the health and comfort of the inhabitants, without, what is so much felt in the neighbouring towns, the inconvenience of a steep acclivity. The principal improvements effected in the town had their rise in an Act of Parliament, usually termed " The Improvement Act," which, after a lengthened and obstinate struggle between the Corporation and the Parishioners, after being petitioned for and also opposed by petition, was passed 10th of June, 1811. It is said to have pleased neither party ; but, be that as it may, much good has resulted from it, although principally of a negative kind. Who can think of the multitude of aerial waterspouts pouring then torrents from the house-tops, during a fall of rain, several feet into the street, right and left, the centre being at the same time a flooded kennel 1 Those unsightly nuisances, the huge overhanging penthouse, and its ground-floor neighbour, the " bulk," projecting from almost every house ; both worse than useless, and withal so old that they might almost plead a prescriptive right to the places they occupied.

The butchers and their stalls, ranged on either side the principal street of the town, flanked by massive forms or chopping barnstaple : 1837 — 1897. blocks, over which, maugre the fishmonger's tallow candle, the unwary passenger has been seen to tumble headlong ! The odour exhaled from the contents of the dung-pit or cloaca lying on the footways, and carted through the streets at all hours of the day ! Who can look back on the existence of these, and a long list of other delectable things, and not speak well of the instrument which has swept them all off, and opened the way for more substantial and visible improvement ? Since this Act came into operation, a spirit of liberality and emulation has evinced itself amongst the inhabitants, who have vied with each other in removing low antiquated fronts and ill-contrived dwellings, and replacing them by tasteful and commodious structures.

I may instance, in proof of this, that out of sixty-eight houses, forming a portion of High Street, and running in continuous lines on each sides, twenty-four have been wholly re-built, and twenty-five, either by having been re-fronted or the old fronts modernized, have become so altered in appearance, as in most instances to have the effect of new houses. But although the improvements have been greatest in High Street, from its being the principle mart and thoroughfare, they are visibly great in every part of the town, even in the backmost districts of it. A considerable number of houses of a superior description have been erected of late, some of them such as Barum's richest sons who lived a century or two ago would have designated palaces. Modern dwellings of a lesser order are fast multiplying, and indeed of every grade down to the cottage of the artisan and labourer, of which class from two to three hundred have been built within the last fifteen years, and a style uniting neatness and convenience such as the poor man of the last generation scarcely ever enjoyed.

A large proportion of these were erected as a consequence of the establishment of lace manufactories in the vicinity. To that at Stony Bridge, in particular, the several streets laid down in the plan of the town, between Vicarage Lawn and the Factory, owed their origin entirely. [Only a single house was to be found in this district previous to 1826 ; more than 120 are now tenanted there. For the erection of these houses half an acre of land was purchased at seven hundred pounds and another at one thousand pounds per acre ; two acres of the same property had not long before been sold for £360. An adjoining field measuring a borough acre (about threequarters of a statute acre) sold for the same purpose at five hundred pounds.] Mention of Ebberly Place must not be omitted. This neat and beautifully-situated row of houses, eight in number, was formed (it is believed at a much greater expense to the owner than if the whole had been built anew) out of a building previously used as a Horse Barrack.

The property, then bounded and inclosed by the same wall as at present, was purchased from the Government in 1817 by Henry Hole, Esq., of Ebberly House, near Torrington, who converted it to its present purpose. He has recently sold it. From a church rate (drawn on a parchment roll), which has fortunately escaped the general wreck which our parish documents have for the most part suffered, I am enabled to furnish an accurate statement of the increase of houses during the last 120 years. I find by this record that in 1709 Barnstaple contained but five hundred and seventy-six houses ; by the population returns in 1821, I discover the number at that time to have been seven hundred and ninety-nine ; and the parish rate-book for 1S30 exhibits a list of upwards of one thousand houses, being an addition of more than four hundred and twenty since the year 1 709.

The desirable objects of lighting and newly paving the streets have been partially accomplished within the last four years, under the sanction of the Improvement Act. All the principal streets, and a considerable portion of the outskirts of the town, were lit by oil lamps in 1826, at an expense somewhat exceeding £150, of which more than £138 was raised by subscription. The lamps are not used during the summer months. The carriage-way in High GROWTH TESTED BY STATISTICS. 5 Street, which, in common with others, used to have a considerable, and in some parts, really a dangerous slope from the houses on each side to the centre, was raised in the middle throughout, newly pitched, and excellent footpaths of flagstones laid down in 1827 at the cost of £540, of which £200 was subscribed by the owners and occupiers of houses in that particular street, the Commissioners agreeing to appropriate the whole produce of the rate on property in High Street towards the payment of the remaining sum, until it should be liquidated.

The inhabitants of Cross Street and Joy Street soon followed in succession on the Bame plan. A similar improvement, but with footpaths paved in the ordinary way, had been previously effected in Bear Street, at the joint expense of Hem-y Hole, Esq., and the parish of Barnstaple. Much more would have been effected under the immediate influence of the Improvement Act than has yet been accomplished, but for the trifling rate which the Commissioners are empowered to levy on the property in the parish, which is limited to " sixpence in the pound, according to the annual value, on all houses, wharfs, buildings, outhouses, yards, and gardens " ; and " fourpence in the pound, according to the annual value, upon the rectorial and vicarial tythes of the parish, the waterworks, the tolls, dues, &<**., belonging and payable to the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses, together with all arable, meadow, and pasture lands, situate within the borough and parish."

The gross produce of this rate is £480 annually. The Act restricts the sum to be borrowed for general purposes to six hundred pounds (which has been long since raised), but permits the Corporation to take upon the credit of the town dues, &c, to the amount of six thousand pounds, to be laid out in " altering, removing, building, and otherwise improving the markets or market houses." This panegyric dealt only with the blossoming time. The most striking transformation and the greatest development took place after Gribble wrote. Gas was introduced at Barnstaple in 1834, but it was very little used at the time Queen Victoria began to reign. In 1837 there was no Market, farmers' wives then lining the south end of High Street with their panniers on Fridays. The Square was an unattractive waste, flanked on the riverside by a limekiln.

Taw Vale Parade had no existence ; ancient, narrow Litchdon Street formed the main thoroughfare to Newport, and the entrance to Barnstaple for the London, Bristol, and Exeter coaches. Victoria Road had not been thought of. The approach to the town by way of the Long Bridge was most unsightly. Only the leading streets were presentable. The drainage arrangements were primitive in character. Comparatively few houses availed themselves of the regular water supply — which was carried into the main streets in pipes made by boring holes through the trunks of trees. The water then delivered was unfiltered. Barnstaple's residential limits were very circumscribed. There were no houses in Bear Street (save in Ebberley Lawn) above Ebberley Terrace, and none above Aze's Lane — although the Union Workhouse was in course of erection in 1837.

Derby was only partially developed. There were no houses in Braunton BARNSTArLE : 1837 — 1897. 6 Road. There was an almost unbroken open space between the end of Queen Street (going across the old Brickfield, now Summerland Street) and Newport. No houses had been built at the Sticklepath end of the Long Bridge. Newport was a straggling, though highly promising, suburb, with no side streets. Very few of the tine business premises, offices, and private dwellings which are now to be seen in Barnstaple were then standing. There were no pleasure grounds. South Walk had not been planned, and the site of the Park presented much the appearance to-day of the tide-swept waste ground on Anchor Wood Bank when it is covered with baulks of timber — for a portion of Chanter's Green was at that time used as a timber yard.

There was no railway ; telegraphic communication was not thought of until the North Devon line was opened in 1854. Postal facilities were so little encouraged that one postman proved equal to meeting all the demands made upon the office. Order was maintained (more or less) by one constable — who, however, could always count on the assistance of a number of " specials." The stocks were frequently used as a means of punishment ; and the detention of offenders in a cage which stood near the old Quay Hall was still in vogue. Wages were ridiculously low, according to the standard of to-day : first-class mechanics considered themselves handsomely paid at 12s. or 15s. a week. Labourers commonly worked for a shilling a day. In 1837 there was only one Church for Barnstaple ; Pilton Church, of course, existed, and a chapel-of-ease (erected in 1828) stood at Newport.

The Nonconformist chapels in those days were very modest affairs. Public elementary schools were represented by the Blue Coat School (then located over the ancient North Gate) and the National (Bell) School. But, in addition to the Grammar School, there were several noted private schools, which turned out men who have made their mark in all parts of the world. There was no popular franchise ; political influence was mostly vested in the hands of frepmen. Small reading-rooms in Cross Street and at the Assembly Rooms represented all the town offered for the public encouragement of literature. Public-houses existed in swarms. Only a small proportion of the people ever travelled beyond their own immediate neighbourhood. These fragmentary notes may serve to give some idea as to the surroundings of the citizens of Barnstaple in 1837.

In this sketch we hope to trace the process of metamorphosis which has produced the Barnstaple of to-day. Three tests are usually applied to ascertain the actual growth of a GROWTH TESTED BY STATISTICS. 7 township. Comparisons are made between the number of houses, the rateable value, and the population at stated periods. We will, therefore, first apply these three material tests to the case of Barnstaple. According to Gribble, the parish rate-book in 1830 contained " a list of upwards of one thousand houses." This number had risen to 1,085 in 1837. In 1871 there were 2,349 inhabited houses in the borough. The rate-book now shows that in Barnstaple parish (including Newport) there are about 3,075 houses, and adding 450 for Pilton East we get a total of 3,525 for the borough. Gribble comments on the fact that 420 houses were added to Barnstaple between 1709 and 1830.

It will be seen that during the past sixty years the number of houses has been trebled. Newport has, of course, been added, and so has a portion of Pilton ; but the greatest additions in each case have been made since their inclusion in the borough. Besides, some hundreds of houses have been built of late years just outside the borough boundaries, and these are not credited to Barnstaple in the return for the present year. In 1837 the rateable value of Barnstaple parish was £12,311 10s., compared with £10,546 in the previous year. A rate signed in March, 1847, gives a rateable value of £17,327 15s. for the parish of Barnstaple (not including Newport). In 1856 the rateable value was £18,847. In 1868 the figure was £19,535. In 1878 Barnstaple had a rateable value of £20,640 (not including Pilton).

In 1883 the figure was £26,708. Two years later a total for the borough of £39,813 was reached. And this year the rateable value of the borough is £45,104 10s. 6d., of which £4,426 is credited to Pilton. Thus, even allowing for the inclusion of old houses in Pilton and Newport— and excluding the houses which have sprung up on the outskirts of the borough — the rateable value has practically been trebled, for the assessment in 1837 was half the actual value, while to-day twenty per cent, has to be added to the rateable value to get the gross rent. The population returns do not yield such satisfactory results. Houses have increased in a higher proportion than the population. The explanation is to be found in the fact that the great majority of the young men who receive their training as artisans and business men in the town are obliged by force of circumstances to seek their fortunes in larger centres of population, which railway communication has brought within easy reach.

New industries have not sprung up as occasion demanded to occupy the energies of the growing community, Henee a constant exodus, which has tended to keep down the population record. barnstaple: 1837 — 1897. The proportion of unoccupied houses is generally small, so that the disparity between the increase in the number of houses and the actual increase of population is accounted for by the fact that the housing of the community is more generous than it was a couple of generations ago. It was once a common thing to find two or more families living in a small house. Now such an experience is the exception. The census of 1831 gave Barnstaple parish a population of 6,840 ; in 1841 the figure was 7,902 ; in 1851, 8,667 ; in 1861, 8,127 ; in 1871, 8,918 (with 11,813 in the Parliamentary borough).

According to the census of 1881 there was a population of 9,518 in Barnstaple parish, with 1,099 at Newport and 1,876 at Pilton, giving a total for the Parlimentary borough of 12,493. In 1891 the population of Barnstaple parish (then including Newport) was returned at 11,441, the population of the borough being 13,058. Since then there has been a small annual increase. But although houses on one side of Braunton Road, and others at Sticklepath, are not technically within the borough, they virtually belong to the town, and if the inhabitants of these districts were included the population would be returned at about 14,000. The extension of the borough boundary so as to include these localities has been talked of for several years, but the stage of action has not yet been reached. In 1837 Commissioners appointed by William IV. in 1836 to advise upon the boundaries and wards of certain boroughs presented a report which had the effect of permanently dividing Barnstaple into North and South Wards.

This report was published by order of the House of Commons in April, 1837. But in 1835 the borough had been extended under the Reform Act so as to include Newport and Pilton, and the ward system actually prevailed at the first election of the Town Council under the new regime. The Commission thus seems to have simply confirmed the existing arrangement, although the precise boundary line of the two Wards may have been modified. In their report the Commissioners say : — '• In the parish of Barnstaple, which is co-extensive with the old borough, there are 1 ,085 houses, all of which are rated. The annual assessed value is half the real value, and, including all the buildings, it amounts to £10,546. In the Pilton division there are 276 rated houses, and the annual value is £1,164, which is half the real value.

In the Newport division there are 187 rated houses, and the annual value assessed is £794 10s., which is a fourth of the real value. These several assessments and valuations Barnstaple, prom Sticklepath (about 1837). From a Drawing by Mr. R. Sharland. GROWTH TESTED BY STATISTICS. 9 include all the buildings in the borough, but they do not include the lands, tithes, tolls, and public works. In the parish of Barnstaple the lands are assessed at £1,659 a year ; in Pilton at £1,365 a year ; in Newport at £447 a year. The Barnstaple assessment is made at four-fifths of the value ; the Pilton assessment on two-thirds ; the Newport assessment on one-half." In Barnstaple parish there were then 469 houses rated under £5 ; 599 above £5 ; 236 under £10 ; 125 over £10 and under £15 ; and 244 over £15.

In Pilton 176 were rated under £5 and 100 above ; 76 under £10 ; 17 at £10 and under £15 ; and seven over £15. In Newport the houses rated under £5 were 117, with 70 above ; 54 were rated under £10 ; 15 at £10 and under £15. In one of their comments the Commissioners said : — " In Newport several buildings are in progress, while Pilton is comparatively stationary, and it is not expected that the cottages which have sprung up around the factory will continue to extend in the same degree." Nine Town Councillors were then assigned to each Ward — and the same proportion has been preserved to the present time.