Ascents and Adventures: a record of hardy mountaineering ... With illustrations

Front matter

Ascents and Adventures A RECORD OF HARDY MOUNTAINEERING IN EVERY QUARTER OF THE GLOBE BV HENRY FRITH AUTHOR OF "THROUGH FLOOD, THROUGH FIRE,7 ,lA RACE FOR LIFE," "THE MYSTERY OF MOOR FARM,"_£_C., &C. WITH FIFTY-SEVEN ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS Broadway, Ludgate Hill New York : 9 Lafayette Place U XI FORM WITH THIS VOLUME IN SIZE AND PRICE. SCHOOLBOYS ALL THE WORLD OVER Bv Henry Frith. BOYS. By Lady Barker. HUNTING GROUNDS OF THE OLD WORLD. By the Old Shekarry. MEYRICK'S PROMISE; or Little Fugitive*; from the Jamaica Rebellion. By E. C. Phillips. WITH THE COLOURS. By R. M. Jephson. THE ROLL OF THE DRUM. By R. M. Jephson. BRADBURY, AGNEW, & CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS. TO MY BROTHER, FREDERICK GEORGE FRITH, THIS BOOK, IN REMEMBRANCE OF MANY ALPINE SCRAMBLES, •Ksi afftcttaiiatflij 0ti)itatcU BY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. The following pages do not profess to be a record of our own personal adventures. They include many experiences of a varied character in Europe, Asia, and America ; but while making use of the narratives and notes of more experienced climbers, without copy ing their work, we have in some cases embodied the spirit of it, and fixed it in our pages for the amusement, and it may be for the instruction, of young people. Our own " mountaineering " has been confined to a few modest ascents in Switzerland, but we have so thoroughly enjoyed our little climbs in the bracing air of the Cantons, that when this volume was pro jected we gladly grasped the opportunity of recording the adventures of great climbers in a wider sphere than the " Playground of Europe." The work thus includes some of the most important and venturesome ascents ever made. We have not added Mr. Whymper's accounts of his South American

PREFACE.

. VI tour, as it has been so lately published ; but we have derived assistance from the " Alpine Journal " and kindred publications, which has, we believe in every instance, been acknowledged in the text. The composition of the Book has been to us a labour of love. We have lived over again the many happy weeks spent on the European continent on the moun tain paths and slopes. There the grandeur of Nature and the might of the Creator can be only truly appreciated ; so, we think, we can do no better than bid our young readers to go and do likewise — to go and read, mark, and learn the secrets, and enjoy the silent but eloquent companionship ofthe "Everlasting Hills." HENRY FRITH. CONTENTS. CHAPTER TAOE I. INTRODUCTORY II II. THE ALPS. — THE STORY OF LE MONT BLANC . . . 19 III. THE REVENGE OF LE MONT BLANC ..... 29 IV.

THE GLACIERS OF MONT BLANC. — THE MER DE GLACE. — THE COL DU GEANT AND THE AIGUILLES. — AN ACCI- DENT 39 V. THE CONQUEST OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE AND THE AIGUILLE DU DRU 54 VI. THE STORY OF THE MATTERHORN 65 VII. THE ASCENT AND THE RETURN 74 VIII. SOME LATER ADVENTURES ON THE CERVIN . . . . 84 IX. SOME REMARKS ON AVALANCHES, AND ACCIDENTS CAUSED BY THEM . . -, 91 X. A PAGE OF HISTORY I07 XI. THE PYRENEES. — AN ADVENTURE 113 XII. AN ADVENTURE IN THE PYRENEES 120 XIII. SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND A TRAGEDY .... I27 XIV. INTO THE HEART OF THE HARTZ 135 XV. A CLASSICAL MOUNTAIN I44 XVI. THE CAUCASUS I49 XVII. ELBURZ AND ARARAT 1 58 XVIII. THE SUMMIT OF ARARAT. — MOUNT ARGEUS. — MOUNT SINAI. 169 XIX. INDIA. — THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS. — SOURCE OF THE GANGES CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE SOME ADVANTAGES OF TRAVEL IN THE HIMALAYA. — PIG-STICKING. — AN ADVENTURE 1S7 XX, XXI.

THE ABODE OF SNOW. — THE WESTERN HIMALAYA . . I95 XXII. DARJILING. — DR. HOOKER'S EXPEDITION. — A TERRIBLE ADVENTURE 202 XXIII. PIETER BOTTE IN THE MAURITIUS 212 XXIV. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. — THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. — COLORADO, AND ITS PEAKS 221 THE CANONS OF THE COLORADO RIVER .... 234 XXV. XXVI. FROM CHEYENNE TO SACRAMENTO. — THE SIERRA NEVADA 24O XXVII. THE SIERRAS. — MOUNT TYNDALL AND ITS PERILS. — MOUNT SHASTA 246 XXVIII. THE YOSEMITE AND THE YELLOWSTONE. — WONDERLAND 26l xxix. MR. everts' adventure (concluded) . . . . 272 XXX. SOME MEXICAN MOUNTAINS. — POPOCATAPETL AND ITS CRATER 276 XXXI. ORIZABA. — M. DOIGNON's AND BARON MULLER's AD- VENTUROUS EXPEDITIONS 287 XXXII. THE ANDES. — MR. EDWARD WHYMPER's ASCENTS. — CHIMBORAZO, AND THE VOLCANOES OF THE COR- DILLERAS 058 XXXIII. " A RAILROAD IN THE CLOUDS " 307 XXXIV.

A LAST GLANCE AT THE CORDILLERAS.— TIERRA DEL FUEGO.— THE AUSTRALIAN ALPS.— CONCLUSION . . LIST OF PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. FACE CHAMOUNI : GLACIER DES BOSSONS, MT. BLANC 21 AIGUILLE DU GEANT 47 CROSSING A SNOW BRIDGE ........ 59 THE MATTERHORN AND ZERMATT 69 THE MONTE ROSA HOTEL AND CHURCH, ZERMATT . . . 8l A PEEP AT THE PIC I03 THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE 2 ST. GOTHARD 109 IN THE PYRENEES 115 THE SPECTRE OF THE BROCKEN I4I MOUNT ARARAT 165 MOUNT SINAI 173 BUDDHIST TEMPLE AT THE SOURCE OF THE GANGES . . . 183 VIEW OF THE OUTER HIMALAYA 197 THE PIETER BOTTE 2IJ AN AMERICAN RAILROAD VIADUCT 225 CLEAR CREEK CANON 23I THE CANON OF THE COLORADO 243 b LIST OF PACE ILLUSTRATIONS. X PACE THE SIERRA 251 A MONARCH OF THE RANGE 257 THE YOSEMITE FALL 263 POPOCATAPETL 2S3 TIERRA DEL FUEGO 295 GLACIERS OF MOUNT COOK 313 MOUNT EGMONT . . . ,

Chapter I. Introductory

A great many years ago, when I was a little boy, I lived in Dublin. Anyone who knows that city on the Anna Liffey knows — or should know — the appearance of the Three- Rock Mountain overlooking the picturesque village of Dundrum. This hill is one of the Dublin Range, and is easily distinguished by the three masses of rock with which it is crowned. My ambition at twelve years of age was to climb this mountain alone and unaided. It rises slopingly, and the base is about five miles or so from the outskirts of the Irish capital. One fine morning, during holiday-time, I started off, and with only some bread-and-butter in my pocket, I began my journey. I had then only lately been presented with a silver hunting watch, and wore it proudly ; but this excellent timekeeper gave me much uneasiness during the day.

B The road was lonely, and before I reached the base of the mountain I was the sole occupant of the country road. As I plodded on I encountered a sturdy Irish tramp, a young man about sixteen years old, who asked me for alms, and " the time o' day, av I plazed." I refused the former, but complied with the latter request, foolishly consult ing my watch to confirm my estimate of the hour of the da)-. The eyes of the tramp glistened ; at least I suppose they glistened ; for, to be candid, I don't think I remarked upon that circumstance at the time, but I noticed that he approached cautiously towards me. I, half fearing, moved onwards, ancl just then a man approached across the field adjacent. I hurried on, and, without seeing any more of the tramp, managed to ascend the mountain, and, amongst the granite boulders, ate my luncheon ravenously.

I was still in the enjoyment of some crust, when I heard the noise of a falling stone, and, looking up, beheld, at a short distance from me, the juvenile tramp, evidently looking for me — aud my watch ! I had so far escaped his observation, and his stone-throwing was, I believe, aimless ; but I was the object of his search, no doubt. Stooping, I crept round the largest of the boulders, and wedged myself tightly within the aperture over hung by a great slab which effectually con cealed me. The boy came quietly along, and passed close to me. My heart beat loudly ; I was terribly frightened. All alone on the mountain, my parents probably quite ignorant of my whereabouts, I fancied all kinds of horrors, amongst which robbery was as nothing. After a time, however, the tramp gave up the search, ancl I saw him descending, looking about him as he went.

I did not venture to stir until I saw him trudo-inoalong the high road far below me, and then I left my hiding-place as the rain-clouds came up from the county Wick low and pursued me home. That was my very first adventure on a mountain. I have had some since in other mountains, but I don't think I have ever been so alarmed as I was then. As I returned that afternoon, I declared to myself that I would never venture up another mountain — a resolution, I am thankful to say, I had not sufficient decision of character to abide by ; for I have been up many mountains since, and tumbled down one at least. But I also wondered what was the use of mountains. What good did they do ? when were they first piled up ? did they grow, or were they shot up by earthquakes as islands are ? These were some of the questions I, as a boy, and after wards, asked ; and as perhaps some other boys would like to know something about mountains before they (the boys, I mean) accompany me up B a few on paper, I will briefly enumerate some of the uses of our " everlasting hills."

My own first enquiry was met with the reply that the mountains were " for fellows to get a view from," a maxim lately adapted to mean that mountains were made to be climbed by Alpine Clubmen. But there are other and even more elevated uses than this. Mountains give us rivers and replenish them ; they afford a resting-place to animals which would otherwise be destroyed ; they affect our climate and shelter us from winds ; and we should have no lakes nor springs without our mountains. When we carry all these facts to their consequences, we see how useful mountains are. The great use of mountains is to distribute and collect water for our benefit. The vapours strike the lofty peaks and, being condensed, descend as rain or snow. The windward side may therefore enjoy a very wet climate, the farther side a dry one.

Snow lies and will not melt above a certain altitude. But the origin of mountains is a very deep, or shall we rather say lofty question ? And it is not a question of how the heavens and the earth were made — about that there can be no question — but we may enquire about the structure of the earth, and how the gigantic forms which we see towering thousands of feet into the air assumed those shapes and became so elevated above the surface of our globe. The proper study of geology should lead our minds to the grandeur of Nature, and a true admiration and reverence for the Almighty Power, which was in existence " before the mountains were brought forth." There are two theories advanced respecting the origin of mountains : upheaval, — or those produced from the crust of the earth by the action of hidden fire, — and the theory of erosion by glacier action.

I have used the term " crust of the earth," but it will be as well to say what that crust is, for, like other " crusts," it has been repeatedly broken. The earth's crust is composed of rocks, and these are divided into two kinds — viz., the " Unstratified " or Plutonic, and the " Stratified " or Sedimentary. The former lie lowest, — unless they have been upheaved by fire, — and at some time or other, some number of thousands of years before man appeared on the globe, were in a fused or melted condition ; and when in process of time they became cooler they formed granite, serpen tine, and other hard rocks, which thus became theyfrA "crust of the earth." Such rocks form the mountains in North Wales, Scotland, and Cumber land, which are therefore the oldest in the world. No remains of animals have been found amidst this crust ; so we may conclude that at that remote period the " earth was without form and void, and darkness was upon the face of the deep."

The Sedimentary rocks, as their name denotes, are deposited rocks, and, lying in strata, take certain forms and are given certain names, and are found to contain animal and vegetable remains. These stratified rocks are divided into ten " for mations," each consisting of a number of " layers," every layer to the geologist indicating a different period in the existence of the world. These are classed for convenience into four great Ages, in cluding certain layers. The First or Primary Age shows us that the Fish had it all to themselves in those days. No animal breathing air is now supposed to have existed at that period. Worms, polyps, and such animals as corals, doubtless existed ; but the true " air-breathing " animal, the biped and the quad ruped, had not come into existence. The Secondary Age, when reptiles appeared.

Immense crocodiles and such animals were then in existence and the iguanodon flourished, his tail particularly. In the Third or Tertiary Age, mammalia sirst appeared, and probably took command of creation until — The Fourth or Modern Age, when Man, the most perfect animal, was brought forth, and has ever since kept all the others in subjection in accordance with the Divine command. We have only to study these successive periods to infinitely increase our faith in God. From the most remote ages, says Professor Hughes, " Man is the end towards which all the animal creation has tended." By the successive periods in the world's life, all the minerals and provision for Man's benefit were stored, for thousands of years in advance, ancl were ready for him when he was created " in the image of God."

But to return to our mountains. Thousands of years ago a great part of Europe and America at any rate was covered by enormous floating ice bergs. Winter was upon the earth, glaciers were formed, and in the course of ages these enormous masses of ice, pressing onwards and downwards, scooped out their channels, carrying immense rocks with them, grinding and chiselling. Then the action of water was, and is also continually, wearing away rock and earth : the valleys get deeper, the peaks higher in proportion. In the great Glacial period probably the whole world was full of icy rivers, and Dr. Joseph Hooker tells us that the great Himalaya glaciers formerly descended many thousand feet below their present level ; in other words, the denudation, or wearing away, has raised the mountains about sive thousand feet higher above sea level.

Switzerland, Wales, England, and America, each and all bear similar evidence that, thousands of years ago, ice furrowed up our rising grounds, and converted them into valleys as the waters subsided. It is supposed that at one time Britain was united to America, and that about thirty-five thousand years have been consumed in the process of separation ! Can we contemplate these things without awe and reverence ? We can only guess at these epochs, after all. Pages of interesting information could be compiled from such learned men as Professor Huxley, Sir Charles Lyell, and other philosophers, but here we have only been able to glean from a far-off field a few straws for our boy readers.

Chapter II. The Alps

THE STORY OF LE MONT BLANC. Mont Blanc came into notice first when two English travellers — Messrs. Pococke and Wind ham — visited Chamouni in 1743. In those days there were no facilities for tourists ; there were no excursion tickets ; and indeed for many years the inhabitants of Geneva had looked upon Le Prieure, as Chamouni is still occasionally called, as the haunt of beings doomed to live amid ice and snow for their sins. We need not go back to the ancient Benedictine Priory, founded about the time when William II. was King of England, to learn anything about the ascent of Mont Blanc, the terrible snow mountain. No one cared to ascend it. There it was : why go up ? As many people say now, what is the use ? But the approach to Le Prieure was difficult enough in those days and even after wards, as Mr. Windham's narrative shows.

On the 19th of June, 1743, eight travellers and five servants started from Geneva to reach the " Glaciers." All were well armed, and there were many sumpter mules with provisions and a tent. They journeyed by Bonneville and Cluses and across the Arve. It appears that these gentlemen were the introducers of the pistol-siring Alpine fraternity, for they awakened the echoes as they proceeded " by firing pistols and cracking whips." At length they reached Chamouni, and inquired about the " Glaciers " and the modes of ascent, which appeared difficult. But notwithstanding the opposition of the Prior of the Valley, our adventurous tourists made up their minds to try. They went so far as to carry "candles and instruments" to make a fire in case of their being overcome by fatigue, or having to camp out.

The whole arrangement of the excursion reflects great credit upon these pioneers of the Alpine Club. They made excellent rules as to pace, speed, and refreshment, no wine being allowed unless mixed with water, a precaution still necessary upon high-level excursions. The travellers started at noon on the 22nd of June, rather a different hour from that now gener ally adopted, and apparently climbed up the (now) well-trodden Mont-Anvert, and got down upon the Mer de Glace. What Columbus was to geogra phers Messrs. Windham and Pococke must have been to Alpine climbers. They went upon the ice and noticed the "cracks" — we call them cre vasses now-a-days in our civilization — they walked CHAMOUNI ; GLACIER DES BOSSONS, MT. BLANC. with poles having sharp points at the end, though it does not appear they burned the name of the place upon them.

These gentlemen returned safely, and spread abroad their adventure. Although they encoun tered no difficulties nor ran any risks, they suc ceeded in initiating the taste for Alpine ex cursions, which had so far developed in 1786 that hotels were established, and these were " hardly able to contain the crowd of strangers " who came thither " from all parts of the globe " (De Saussure). Even De Saussure appears at one time to have looked upon Mont Blanc as inaccessible, and although certain enterprising guides or peasants of Le Prieure ventured upon the snow slopes to a considerable height, the great philosopher him self did not attempt the ascent. And so Mont Blanc remained unconquered, rearing its haughty head above the valley, and sending down ava lanches to dare mortals to attack it on its own ground.

But De Saussure was not to be humbled by any mountain, and on the 13th of September, 1785, his party started to do their utmost. A small hut had been erected in anticipation of their arrival at the Aiguille de Goute. It was not a commodious house at that elevation, nor was it altogether free from draughts. Some of the party complained of sickness, but De Saussure himself was charmed by the scene. However, fortune did not smile upon this brave attempt. We think it sometimes rash and foolish, now, for comparatively experienced climbers to try to scale an unknown peak, but these men were almost entirely new at the work. They were impelled by love of science, and no daily papers told their exploits, or cannon thun dered at their ultimate expense outside the Hotel de Londres which even then existed.

The dawn of success was now rapidly approaching, and De Saussure began to " see his way " to the summit. He told Balmat, Couttet, and another, to investigate the state of the snow. They accordingly ascended, and after a terrible climb they managed to reach the Dome, and actu ally met other guides who had ascended in another direction. Amongst that party of explorers was a native of the valley and a man not on good terms with the others. He had joined himself to the explor ing party, and in spite of all hints and menaces to the contrary notwithstanding, he had followed in the traces of the other Chamouni men. Time after time he was warned back ; time after time unassisted and practically alone did Jacques Balmat doggedly mount the great white mountain. He joined them at the great ridge which connected the Dome de Goute with the still distant summit — but was the Jonah of the party — he was sacri ficed.

A snowstorm arose a'nd the terrible hail beat fiercely upon the hardy mountaineers. " Let us return ! " they cried. " This Mont Blanc is raising its ghosts and fiends to beat us back; the storm-fiend is abroad — let us hasten down ! " " But Jacques Balmat ? " said one, timidly. " Let him alone ; he is not of our party," was the cruel reply. " Let him find his way clown as he found his way up — after us ! " So Jacques was not told of their intentions. He was just then occupied in his search for some rare crystals which, beneath the rock, required his attention. He found his crystals and, recovering himself, looked around. The storm was rushing down the mountain, the gusts of wind nearly tore him from his position and — He was alone ! Solitary. Alone on the unknown and terrible mountain — the home of evil spirits — the Monts Maudits.

Alone ih a storm, ice and snow around him ob literating his tracks, and far beyond human aid. Fourteen thousand feet above the sea, and alone ! Vainly did Jacques Balmat endeavour to return to Chamouni : unassisted, such a course was difficult under the most favourable circumstances ; but in such weather, and with night advancing rapidly, it would have been suicidal. He had very little choice : — either die in the descent or die up there, frozen to death during the night. There was a slight chance in his favour if he remained and kept warm ! Kept warm up there, above the snow-line, in the night ! GLACIER DES BOIS. He had heard of Greenlanders living in their snow huts, and knew that snow can be built up as a shelter. He immediately clambered under the lee of a rock, and without much difficulty, though not without labour which at that height was distressing, Balmat managed to build up a snow shelter from the storm.

How he passed that night we may imagine but very saintly. Picture him : the only human being who has ever been in such a position, probably ; high up the mountain in the deadly solitude — and those who have passed a night or two up in the snowfields know how awful the silence is at night, after the frost has locked the portals of the ice and snow, and Nature sinks to rest almost in the clouds. The thousand welcome sounds of the valleys are here unheard ; Death reigns supreme ; the unearthly stillness is unbroken, and desolation is " writ large " upon the mountain' peaks. Add to this his weariness and his superstitious terrors, the phantom shapes which would assail his over wrought brain, and we have a source of wonder that he lived, and lived a sane man, throughout the night. At length a streak of giant's fingers across the sky, behind the great peaks of the Oberland, far away, told the lonely watcher that day was at hand.

He moved from his shelter; but though he stirred he could not feel his limbs. His hands at leno-th grew better, but his feet were without sensation — frost-bitten ! Jacques Balmat was a hero. Instead of re turning to Chamouni that clear bright morning, he devoted himself, crippled as he was, to a further survey of the mountain. His efforts were suecessful. He found out the direct course to the top, clearly traceable ; this route is still generally used as far as the plateau. Balmat then made his way down to Chamouni, and, without disclosing his secret, went home — and to bed — and for many weeks lay incapable of rising. His medical attendant, Doctor Paccard, was all this time unremitting in his attentions to the sick man ; and one day, when recovery seemed very near, Balmat told the doctor that he had a secret to impart to him, and after a stipulation as to the confidence reposed in him, Paccard was entrusted with the news.

They agreed to go up together without any other aid than their own sturdy limbs and stout hearts. On the 7th of August they started. They slept on the mountain that night. Next morning they resumed their route, and though suffering very severely persisted. At about three in the after noon they reached the summit, the first human beings who had trodden. upon those virgin snows. The explorers were seen on the top, and at eight o'clock next morning when they reached Cha mouni, quite worn out, and blistered with the sun's rays acting on the snow, they found themselves famous. The White Mountain had been conquered by stern pluck and resolution. They were the pioneers of the Alpine Club, the forerunners of a race of mountain climbers, who now number hundreds, and who sigh like so many Alexanders for new worlds (of snow and ice) to conquer. However, Mont Blanc had to take its revenge, and it did so, as we shall see later.

Chapter III. The Revenge Of Le Mont Blanc

De Saussure ascended Mont Blanc with im punity. He accomplished his wish — a wish which had been dominant for twenty-seven years in his mind. He was then happy, though in the account of his travels he speaks of his success as a painful sensation when he reflected upon what he had not done. I think that is much the same sensation which we all experience in after life. In 1 787 he determined to make another attempt upon Mont Blanc, and was advancing towards Chamouni for that purpose, when he encountered the brave Jacques Balmat who had already van quished the Monarch, as we know. Balmat's success fired De Saussure, and he accordingly pushed on to Chamouni only to find the weather worthy of 1879 (in anticipation), and nothing could be done. For four weary weeks the philosopher philosophically waited for a fine day, but it was not until August that the break occurred.

Accompanied by a body -servant and no less C than eighteen guides carrying scientific apparatus and baggage, De Saussure ascended. The first clay's work was about six hours. On the second they found more difficulty, and one of the guides had a very narrow escape from falling into a crevasse. That evening the travellers reached the second plateau, and some of them suffered considerably from the cold and from the rarity of the atmosphere, which made breathing difficult, though De Saussure says, that he suffered from " heat and closeness of the air," in conse quence of the tents having been so closely fastened up. Next day, at eleven o'clock, they reached the summit, and thus the hope of years was accom plished. Notwithstanding the feeling of sickness, De Saussure remained upon the summit making observations until half-past three.

The descent was accomplished in safety, and upon the fourth clay, early, they reached Chamouni in good health and spirits. That the difficulties were neither few nor trifling the narrative plainly intimates ; the aspect of the glacier in descending had quite changed, and the route traversed on the ist, could not be ascertained upon the 4th of August. The meeting in the valley was a happy one, as all the relatives and friends of the adventurous party turned out to welcome them, ancl great was the rejoicing at their safe return. Another very interesting ascent, and also valuable, like De Saussure's, from a scientific point of view, was made in 1844 by Messrs. Martin Bravais and De Pileur ; but our space will not permit us to do more than refer to it. After De Saussure many adventurers gained the summit, and the mountain good-naturedly permitted itself to be played with, although it occasionally reminded travellers that the symp toms of sea-sickness were not confined to the sea level.

This nausea is one of the most un pleasant sensations of the climber. Even at the Gorner Grat I have suffered from it, under certain physical conditions, and then the feeling has suddenly passed away ; but it is very unpleasant ancl might be dangerous if it overtook one in a critical spot. However, Mont Blanc is now looked upon as a regular tourist beat; and in 1820, when Dr. Hamel made his ascent, it was becoming the thing to do if possible. This gentleman had some important observations to make ; and so, in company with a Geneva philosopher and two young Englishmen and a dozen guides, the doctor determined to try his fortune on the mountain. The Grands Mulets is the first stage now, and — ■ on that occasion, at any rate — it appears to have been the halting-place. The route is so well known that it is perhaps scarcely necessary to in dicate it.

Nevertheless a hurried sketch of the way up may not be unacceptable to young people. The first portion of the way, as far as the hotel at Pierre Pointue, can be accomplished on mule back. For amateurs, a night's rest there will be beneficial, so that a start may be made at an early hour next morning. About an hour and a half from the hotel a rock known as La Pierre de 1'Echelle is reached. Then the Glacier des Bos sons is entered on, and as soon as the couloir is passed — and the sooner the better— the snow is gained, and the glacier is surmounted with considerable exertion to untried lungs and heads. Now the sheaf of pointed rocks known as the Grands Mulets is attained, and here is a hut. Im mediately before the traveller is the Dome du Goute. You can remain all night at the Grands Mulets, if desirable.