St. Mary's of Old Montrose, or parish of Maryton

Preface

. The substance of this volume appeared first in booklets, the contents of which were or iginally popular lectures delivered in connec tion with my congregation. I have frequently been requested to gather the matter of those booklets into one volume. It may be regarded as somewhat venturesome, for one who is blind, to undertake such a task. That would have been so in some circumstances ; but with the effective aid which I have re ceived from my friend Mr W. F. Melvin, it has been in my case a light and easy task. In preparing the volume for the press, and in passing it through the press, I have re ceived such able help as only a large experi- Preface. VIII ence in similar matters would have enabled him to confer. Duplicate passages have been removed, and new matter is added. The original lectures being in connection with the congregation, it was deemed unadvisable, and it might have been invidious, to introduce into the narrative such a history of the Free Church as will be looked for in what pur ports to be a parochial history.

Much of the information given I had acquired myself during my stay in the parish, but for a large part, especially the early days of the Free Church, I have been indebted to Miss J. A. Scott of Montrose, formerly of Dysart, and I desire to express my thanks to her here. Of course it will be understood that for the comments made on the information so received that lady is not at all responsible. There are many other friends who, from first to last, have aided me, and I desire to acknowledge my indebtedness to them all. Notwithstanding the important assistance which I have received, I am aware there will be found defects to tax the equanimity of Preface. IX the critic and the forbearance of the general reader. I trust those defects will be neither large nor many, and that they will be such only as must be regarded as unavoidable in such a work.

I confidently believe, however, that there is no imperfection such as will mar the pleasure of any reader who is inter ested in the subject. If the volume succeeds to any extent in exciting that kind of in terest in any mind where it does not exist already, I shall deem myself amply repaid. WILLIAM R. FRASER. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Historic Summary

PAGE Introductory — Modern divisions — Traditions — Ancient divisions — Old Montrose and Ananie — Bonniton and Fullerton — Maryton and Maryton Law — Powis and Pow Bridge — Dysart — Events in the Civil War — Incidents in the Rebellion of 1715 — Episodes in the Rebellion of 1745 — The troubles of the eighteenth century ....... 1

Chapter II. Landed Proprietors

Division of Scotland into parishes — Extinct names — Fullerton — Bonniton — The Middletons — The Hays of Balhousie — The Stratons — The Mills and Stirlings — Over and Nether Dysart — Monastery of Aberbrothoc — Agricultural holdings of the eighteenth century . . ... . . .40

Chapter III. Historic Families

Introductory — Woods of Bonniton — An excommunicated Papist — The brothers Dall — An interesting Contents. XII s-t 222 238 letter — Creation of baronetcy — Wisharts of Drum — Causes of the Reformation — Visits of John Knox — Melvilles of Dysart — Melvilles of Baldovie — ■ Andrew Melville — Family of Richard Melville — James Melville — Family of David Melville — Early history of the Grahams — The first and second earls — The third and fourth earls — A tulzie in Edin burgh — The Marquis — Estimate of his character — Summary of his life — His execution — Incidents con nected, with Old Montrose — Interesting episodes in and about Montrose — The sisters and wife of the Marquis — The second Marquis and his descendants

Chapter I. Historic Summary

INTRODUCTORY — MODERN DIVISIONS — TRADITIONS — ANCIENT DIVISIONS — OLD MONTROSE AND ANANIE — BONNITON AND FULLERTON — MARYTON AND MARYTON LAW — POWIS AND POW BRIDGE — DYSART — EVENTS IN THE CIVIL WAR — INCIDENTS IN THE REBELLION OF 1715 — EPISODES IN THE REBELLION OF 1745 — THE TROUBLES OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. THE purpose of this volume is to give, as shortly and as completely as circumstances will allow, a history of the parish of Maryton from the earliest records that are extant down to the close of the last century. It would not only be inconvenient, but it would be unnecessary, to encroacji in personal matters upon anything within the memory A of that proverbial personage "the oldest inhabitant" — the researches must be carried much farther back than his legitimate do main, — and the likelihood is they will stop short in most things a considerable distance of the time when his faculties came into play.

Such being the case, it will be understood, of course, that the only responsibility incurred is that of a faithful recorder of information gathered from whatever source is open ; and it may be stated now that the chief of those sources are the ' History of the Carnegies,' which does credit to the judgment alike of the learned compiler, and of the noble Earl under whose supervision it was carried out, — and the various works of Mr Jervise, whose unwearied industry has done so much for Forfarshire and other counties besides, and whose authority is of the highest order. There has also been much information de rived from Dr Scott's ' Fasti Ecclesiæ ' of the kind of which it possesses such an abun dant store. Other works have been con sulted, and occasionally it may be that records yet unwritten may be pressed into service.

Care shall be taken to remind the reader of the fact, whenever anything is advanced upon the mere strength of hear say. A due regard to ancient history requires some allusion to a fact of modern geography. Maryton is a small parish, and not a very populous one ; but it has this mark of distinction over most other parishes, that it is made up of no less than four detached portions ; and starting from any point, it would be impossible to visit all its families without having traversed less or more four different parishes. The main division of it needs not be particularised. The second in point of size is Dysart, the only direct road to which is through the parish of Craig. Its detached position will be accounted for by-and-by. The third division is Drum, which is approachable by land only through a portion of Dun.

It is to be presumed that, either with or without its own connivance, Drum parted company with the parish, because rivers, like people, are prone to change their courses. Sometimes the change is for the better ; but in this case all parties will agree that it has been rather for the worse. The fourth and remaining fragment of the parish is still more remote, and can be got at, in a direct course, only through the neighbouring parishes of Farnell and Kinnell. The con nection of Grahamsfirth with Maryton is accounted for in two different ways, one with a little romance about it, but not very probable — the other entirely prosaic, but extremely likely. Both shall be given and the choice can be made between the two — only, whatever favour may be had for the more romantic account, it does not rest upon any sure foundation.

But who has not heard of the man who, when asked to what parish he belonged, replied that he did not know, — when he stood at his bedside he was in the parish of Maryton, and when he went to his bed he was in the parish of Kinnell ? The tradition about Grahamsfirth is that when the Marquis of Montrose espoused the Hon. Magdalene Carnegie, the young lady claimed from her noble father, in addition to her substantial dowry, something in the shape of pin-money ; and the noble lord offered to give her, on that account, as much of the land of Monrommon as she would walk round within a given time. The legend further has it that the lady, whether with a laudable desire of making as much of the gift as possible, or only presuming too much upon her pedestrian capabilities, extended her walk too far in a direct line, and found, when half of the allotted time was past, that a large circumbendibus would be impossible, if she would reach the point from which she started in due course.

The strongest, if not the only, evidence upon which the truth of the story rests is the well-known fact that the length of the stripe of ground in question is to this day out of all proportion with its breadth. And if this is not sufficient argu ment, it must be enough to accept the more unsentimental statement that Grahamsfirth was originally a plot of ground to which the proprietors of Old Montrose had a right for grazing or other purposes ; and when the common of the moor came to be divided, it fell to their share, and has since that time been a constituent part of Maryton. At all events the name implies that it has belonged to the parish since the time of the noble family's being connected with it. But, if tradition had been always a safe guide, there should now be a fifth division to count in favour of the parish.

It has been often alleged that Hospital Shiells, a farm in Marykirk, belongs strictly or did belong to Maryton. The presumption is, if there is any truth in the allegation, that at some remote period it had been gifted to St Mary's of Old Montrose (the original name of the church) as a place for recruiting the health of all and sundry the ecclesiastics and their dependents. The name Hospital Shiells would be consistent with this sup position — the meaning of hospital being self evident, and that of shiells, cots or cottages. It is curious, also, in this connection to find a tradition, a merely verbal one also, that in ancient times the minister of Marykirk was under obligation, when required, to officiate in the church of Maryton once every three weeks, while the incumbent there had to give him his dinner on the occasion, and set apart an acre of the glebe for the use of his pony.

That tradition, it needs not be said, was not long observed. It will be well now to classify the lands according to their separate owners. For nearly a hundred years the whole parish has been in possession of the two respected families to which it now belongs. But six hundred years ago there were separate pro prietors for the following lands : The lands of Old Montrose, which were subsequently erected into a barony, and still later into an earldom ; the lands of Bonniton, which also were erected into a barony ; the lands of Ananie; the lands of Fullerton; and what in the language of that day was called the Abthen of St Mary's, consisting of the lands of Over and Nether Maryton. In the thir teenth century there was an estate in the parish, the name of which will not be familiar to any one nowadays — Balnanon — a property which in later times was known as the Heugh lands of Balnamoone.

Mr Jervise describes this as " an estate on the banks of the South esk, situated in the parish of Maryton." If he is correct, it must now form the part of Powis nearest the river. It must be stated, however, that the author of the ' History of the Carnegies ' fixes the situation of Heugh lands in the parish of Brechin. Where two such authorities differ, it would be presump tuous to do more than frankly state the fact. According to Mr Jervise, this property be- St Mary's of Old Mo7itrose. longed in the thirteenth century to the Arrats of Arrat, an old family of Forfarshire long ago extinct, and that it became the property of the family of Carnegie by charter, granted to the grandfather of the first Earl by James Wood of Bonniton in 1549. These, with the lands of Dysart, complete the parish ; and perhaps it will serve the purpose best to follow the order of this division, with the short notice which may be available of each.

The first is Old Montrose, which was of old designated Alt Munross. The derivation of this name is disputed. The author of the 'History of the Carnegies' seems to be in doubt regarding it, accepting the opinion that it was from the first named Auld Munross, which would imply some relation or other to the neighbouring town. But the derivation which meets with the great est favour is that from three Celtic words, which may be translated — " the point of the mossy burn," or " the burn of the mossy point." One well versed in these matters suggests another derivation, which appears very feasible. It is this : " ' Monaa% [dh silent] Rois ' means ' the hill of the ravine,' or rough den, or chasm ; and in the days before the Den of Bonniton was clothed with wood, the chasm would be a conspicuous object in the landscape.

Then 'Alt' is 'a burn.' Hence Alt-Mona rois, 'the burn from the den on the hill.' The change came about this way, no doubt —'Alt' became 'Aid,' and ' Mona Rois' 'Munross' — ' Auld Munross'; and that being supposed vulgar was Englified to Old Mont rose. In the same way 'Altbar' — 'the clear burn' — became Auldbar, and perhaps they will call it Oldbar before long." Be this as it may, the first authentic notice of the lands is a charter in 1325 granting them to Sir David Graham, a great friend of King Robert Bruce, who received in exchange for them the lands of Cardross in Dumbartonshire. The Grahams were a powerful family, and considerable land owners in Angus and elsewhere. In 1451 the lands were erected into a barony ; in 1504 into the earldom of Montrose ; and in 1644 James, the fifth Earl, and most distinguished of the family, was created a Marquis in recognition of his services to the unfortunate King Charles.

The family had ceased to possess the lands before attaining to the ducal rank in 1707. The Marquis was married at the early age of seventeen, to the Hon. Magdalene Car negie, daughter of David, the first Earl of Southesk, and the marriage contract made due provision for herself in the event of her becoming a widow without a son to inherit the patrimony, securing her " in lyf rent during all the days of her lyftyme, in all and haill the landis and barrony of Auld Montrose, with the toure, fortalice, mylnes, multures, salmond fishing of Southesk, the landis of Fullartone, and thrid pairt landis of Annanie, the landis of Marietown, with aikeris thereof, and salmond fishing upone the said watter of Southesk, belonging to the said landis — all lyand within the parochin of Marietown, and shirefdom of Forfar."

The young Earl at first favoured the Presbyterian cause ; but soon from a zealous Covenanter he became the most zealous of Royalists. His name was a terror to his enemies, and he spread havoc and desolation over many parts of the country. One of the houses which he de voted to pillage was the neighbouring man sion of Dun. The inhabitants of Montrose, fearing his approach, had removed their valuables thither for safety, as they thought ; but they were disappointed. The next part of this ancient division of the parish is Ananie. The orthography of this name is various, for it is recorded in all these forms — Annand, Annane, Annanie, Inyaney, Inieneny, Inyoney, Inyanee, In neane, and Inianey, besides that its more modern shape was Ananias. Probably it had got disgusted with itself, on account of these never-ending transformations, and preferred going out of existence altogether.

There is no appearance that any mansion or homestead exists, but the estate lay between Bonniton and Fullerton, and its lands are mainly divided between these farms. It appears very early in history, between the years 1178 and 1198, when William the Lion appointed one named Crane gatekeeper of his Castle of Mont rose, and as a recompense allowed him the heritable fee of the lands of Inyanee. He was succeeded by his son Swayne, and he by his son Simon, who died leaving five daughters and no son. The probability is that the part of the present farm of Fullerton lying beyond the den formed the third of the ancient estate of Ananie, the remaining thirds being the adjacent parts of Bonniton and Old Montrose. Up to a comparatively recent date the Den of Fullerton was very generally called by the name of Ananias.

Very early in the present century, it was un happily known as the frequent resort of a little band of atheists, men of good position in Montrose, who met in the Den of Ananias, Sabbath after Sabbath, to confirm each other in their foolish and impious opinions. They numbered about half-a-dozen, and it is said they burned the Bible in wicked bravado at one of their meetings. Strange they should have selected one of the most beautiful spots in the neighbourhood, teeming with evidences of the handiwork of God, to cast this foul dis honour on His Word, and vaunt their foolish denial of His very existence ! It has been said by more than one who knew all the circumstances well, that not one of the un happy brotherhood but died a fearful death, one of them, if not more, by his own hand, and the others with all the agonies of bitter remorse.

Next in order is Bojiniton, "town in the bottom of the den." This was an estate of considerable importance from an early period, and the vestiges which may still be traced of the old castle prove it to have belonged to a family of distinction. An early name found in connection with it is Tulloch, and the office of keeper of the Moor of Mon rommon was as early as 1399 in the possession of the family to which it belonged. The conditions on which the family were gifted with Bonnington were that they should keep the table of the king, while he resided at Forfar, supplied daily with fresh fish. The Bonniton Den would hardly be sufficient fishing-ground for the purveyors of a royal table. The difficulty was obviated, however, by means of the road which crosses the Arbroath turnpike at Rossie Toll, and which is the remains of one which extended all the way from Usan (then called Ulysses Haven) to Forfar.

Whether the road was formed for the conveyance of the produce of the Usan fishing-boats to the king's kitchen at Forfar does not appear ; but that it was largely employed in this service is certain, from the fact that it was named the King's Cadger Road — a name which has adhered to it pretty much to the present day. There are two slabs belonging to the old castle built into part of the farm steading, both dated 1666 (the year of the baronetcy creation), one showing the arms of Scotland, and the other those of the family of Wood. In 1327 King Robert I. granted to Geoffery of Foullertone and Agnes his wife the lands of Foullertone, with the office of falconer within the shire of Forfar. It is to be hoped the lady did not share the responsibilities of the office as well as the benefits of the estate.

The Falconer was allowed also entertainment in the king's house at Forfar (when the king was there) for himself, a servant, a boy, and two horses, but not, it would appear, for Agnes his wife. Maryto?i originally constituted what was called an abthen, — that is, property of or connected with an abbot or abbacy. The church was called St Mary's of Old Montrose, and was dedicated to the Virgin. It is said to have been a vicarage of the Cathedral of Brechin; but, with all its belongings, it was given at a very early date to the Abbey of Arbroath. The earliest charter existing is one between the years 1178-98. Those gifts were made and con firmed by kings (notably King William the Lion), popes, and bishops of Brechin, and the presentation embraced the church of Auld Munross, with its chapels, lands, tithes, oblations, and all their just pertinents, as well as a grant to the monks of the said Monastery of Arbroath of the right to convert to their own use, and for their sustentation, all the rents and profits of that church, and to appoint in the same church such chaplains as they pleased.

The church lands consisted of what is now the farm of Maryton, and of course the glebe which is still attached. In 1447 one of the Fullertons of that Ilk disposed of at least a portion of the lands of Maryton, which implies that he had held some right of property in them. The Reformation, how ever, put an end to the monks' possession, and converted the abthen into a secular property, which was disposed of at the will of Bishop Alexander Campbell, on whom the power devolved of giving away the bene fices within the diocese. That gentleman, acting on the old principle of blood being St Mary 's of Old Montrose. 16 thicker than water, did not forget his own relatives, and one of them — the Earl of Argyle (through whose influence, by the way, Alexander Campbell had obtained his bishopric) — in 1566 received the handsome donation of the various Church property in Farnell, the whole lands of Maryton — with the salmon fishings — and the lands of Esauxton.

The noble Earl at the same time was invested with the office of bailie of the whole lands under the jurisdiction of the Bishop ; and it may be presumed that the office of a bailie was a remunerative one, or it would not have been dignified by the Earl's acceptance. In due time the lands of Maryton passed into the Graham family — being mentioned in the Marquis's marriage contract — and since then, they have formed a part of the estate of Old Montrose. Maryton Law, which commands such a magnificent view of the surrounding district, is one of those eminences which are pop ularly believed to have been used as sites for the administration of justice. Last century it was a separate holding; and, judging from the Session Records, it would seem that even in one of its proper centres the law was not always observed, as the following extract of minutes will show: — "August ii, 172S. — Session being met and constitute by prayer the minister signified that he had called this meeting pro re natd, by reason of a scandalous breach of the last Lord's day, and other miscarriages committed by William Greig in Maryton Law, whereby the majesty of Heaven was dishonoured, His holy day and sacred name profaned, and the hearts of the observers of his carriage and hearers of his expressions, grieved ; and there being many things thus offensively done by him, which probation cannot be given or ad duced for in the ordinary form, the minister told he had comprehended those things in the General, as above ; which the Session considering, find it necessary to summond the said William Greig before them, and for that effect give warrand to the kirk officer to charge William Greig in Marytonlaw to com pear before the Session of Maryton upon the eighteenth of August."

On the 18th, " William Greig in Marytonlaw compeared and confessed his Breach of the last Lord's day, for which he was suitably exhorted, and rebuked, also warned by the Session, that if B he should be found guilty of such miscarriage in time coming, he would be dealt with in a more severe way and manner." Mr Greig's penitence, however, was not of long duration, as witness the minute of September 22, just five weeks after his compearance : " Accord ing to the minutes of the former sederunts, this day it was inquired if any of the Session had due opportunity to converse with William Greig, in Marytonlaw, anent the scandall committed by him. It was answered none had opportunity save that Andrew Preshew took occasion to converse with him upon that subject, the result of which was that he seemed to him to persist in his obduracy and contumacy.

The rest of the Elders made report that by reason of the Harvest they had not opportunity to speak to him on that subject, but that they would embrace the first opportunity for that purpose. The minister this day signify'd that he was sorry to hear the report of the Elder who had con verst with him ; as likewise, that he had ground to fear he was under no Christian concern for that scandall he is guilty off; and the ground of the suspicion was a scandall committed by four of his servants upon Sabbath, the first of September instant ; and that, about the time of Reigning the first Bell, they were employed in gathering of Pies [peas] on the foresaid day ; and, in regard, the minister knew not their names, referred their citation and censure till next meeting of Session." The following Sabbath, as recorded, the minister preached, forenoon and afternoon, on the duty of " bridling the tongue."

The second Sabbath after, his subject and text were the same in the forenoon, and probably would have been in the afternoon, but, fortunately for Mr William Greig, he had then to be preach ing at Dun. He made up for it, however, the Sabbath after, by preaching from the text " Be ye angry and sin not," &c, forenoon and afternoon. That was plain dealing, which would hardly be popular nowadays. Before leaving this part of the parish it may be well to say a word in regard to Powis. There is no evidence of its ever having formed a separate possession, and the Powis of Old Montrose, a name by which it is very generally known, would suggest that it formed a part of the original barony of Auld Munross. There is no certainty of this, however. If Mr Jervise is right that the Heughlands of Balnamoone were in Maryton, and if it has been correctly supposed that they formed at least part of the present farm of Powis, it is not unlikely that Powis may have belonged in whole, or in part, to the barony of Bonnington.

The Heughlands, at all events, were once the property of the Woods of Bonnington. The name of Powis is evidently from Pow, the old word for stream or burn, and the origin of the name is therefore apparent. The Pow-bridge has an interesting history of its own. It was built first in 1617, while King James was visiting at the Castle of Kinnaird, and enjoying the hunt in the royal forest. And the purpose for which it was erected, according to the Session Records of Brechin, was for "leading his Majesty's provision " while he was the guest of his favourite, the Earl of Southesk. The Bridge of Dun was founded on 7th June 1785, and finished 27th January 1787. It was erected by the family of Dun. A person in the parish who was well-informed, gave her assurance that the contractor who built the bridge expended on its construction only half the sum for which he had con tracted, thus making a clear gain of cent per cent.

In Dysart is included the land in Maryton owned by the proprietors of Duninald, which is held by them in feu from the estate of Dysart. The name was originally " Dyserth," and is said to have implied a hermitage. Until comparatively a recent date Dysart was ecclesiastically a separate parish. Noth ing is known now of where the church was situated ; but it is expressly mentioned in various old documents as belonging to the Priory of Rostinoth. For nearly a century after the Reformation it was attached to the parish of Brechin ; and it cannot be wondered, considering the distance that lay between, that the residenters found it inconvenient to attend, for all the ordinances of the church, "the Kirk of Brechin quilk was thair paroche Kirk." The General Assembly was approached in 1649, and the 249th Act of that year was one " Recom mending the disjoyning of the lands of over and nether Dyserts from Brechin to the Commissioners for planting of Kirks."

When the transference came to be arranged the good folks of Dysart had the great sense to prefer attachment to Maryton ; but whether the connection of the Melvilles with the parish had not more to do with the choice than any special merit of its own is a question which cannot now be answered. Such was the fact, however ; and from the year 1649 to 1890 Dysart formed a con stituent part, civilly and ecclesiastically, of this parish. The earliest proprietors of whom anything can be discovered are the Melvilles. The name of Melville is found in Scottish charters as early as the middle of the twelfth century. But in connection with Dysart it is not expressly mentioned until February 6, 1457, when " Johannes Malveyn de Disart " appears in a charter of Arbroath. There is reason to believe, however, that a John de Melville, to whom a hundred years before that date Christian de Melville, lady of Glenbervie, granted the lands of Liegevin, in the parish of Glenbervie, was proprietor of Dysart ; and it may have been in possession of the family long before.