Travels to and from Constantinople in the years 1827 and 1828, or personal narrative of a journey from Vienna through Hungary, etc. to Constantinople and from that City to the Capital of Austria by the Dardanelles ... Smyrna ... Athens ... Syria, Alexandria, ... Italy ... and Styria

Front matter

/ ,yt,/oii, Publishai by Henry (bt'turn. A'w Jim-tints ton Str^Junr ttttB Drawn. tsJshtjrxned . by Suk* ffall. Bt*r* Str.'&twrnjbf TRAVELS TO AND FROM CONSTANTINOPLE. VOL. I. LONDON J PRINTED BV S. AND R. 1ILNII.LY, Dorset Strei t. Fleet Street -■- AM.AM FaiNris s a . ILAIBY OF MOITI-rTT ILEfflAH-rOrsT, A* .*> A Co&ttr*. Zondon. Z4£t? MAMA1L1ITK1B . ■ TRAVELS TO AND FROM CONSTANTINOPLE, IN THE YEARS 1827 AND 1828 : OR PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM VIENNA, THROUGH HUNGARY, TRANSYLVANIA, WALLACHIA, BULGARIA, AND ROUMELIA, TO CONSTANTINOPLE; AND FROM THAT CITY TO THE CAPITAL OF AUSTRIA, BY THE DARDANELLES, TENEDOS, THE PLAINS OF TROY, SMYRNA, NAPOLI DI ROMANIA, ATHENS, EGINA, POROS, CYPRUS, SYRIA, ALEXANDRIA, MALTA, SICILY, ITALY, ISTRIA, CARNIOLIA, AND STYRIA. BY CAPT. CHARLES COLVILLE FRANKLAND, ROYAL NAVY.

IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1829. DEDICATION. TO REAR-ADMIRAL THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COLV1LLE, OF CULROSS. MY DEAR LORD, Permit me to dedicate to you the following sheets, containing some part of three years' rambles upon the continents of Europe and Asia. They consist for the most part of a mere tran script of my Journal, unemhellished by any attempts at authorship; and were originally composed solely for the amusement of my own domestic circle, and for the fireside of my more intimate friends. They will be found to be full of faults, and more particularly such as are almost insepara ble from the familiar style of Journal writing. DEDICATION. From such as these latter 1 should have found it difficult to free my humble pages,, nor indeed could I have attempted so to do without totally altering the form of the manu script, and divesting it of that character to which alone it pretends, namely, that of a mere " Personal Narrative,'' by which I un derstand a simple relation of what 1 myself saw, heard, and felt.

To you, who have ever been my kind friend and patron, I again recommend my poor little book, mon premier nt : treat it kindly ; and while you excuse its faults yourself, deprecate in others those criticisms which I am but too conscious it deserves. Receive it, my dear Lord, as a proof of affection and regard, from Your dutiful Nephew, CHARLES COLVILLE FRANKLAND London, February, 14, ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. Page Costumes : a Mameluke, a Lady of Mount Lebanon and an Arab Princess . . to face the Title Map of Turkey, with part of Austria, Hungary, &c. showing the Author's route from Vienna to Constantinople 1 The Passage of the Danube at Giurgevo . . 43 Plan of the Environs of Constantinople . . 93 The Seraglio Point, Scutari, Leander's Tower, and Olympus 138 View of Scutari, from the road above Dolma Batchi . 141 View of Constantinople from the Heights towards Belgrade . 151 View of Buyuk Dere . . . .152 View of Constantinople from Fener Batchi . . 160 The European and Asiatic Castles of the Bosphorus . 157 Greek Papas at Chalki . , . . .161 Turkish Musicians at Principo . , . .163 Djouk Soyou .... 167 Turkish Ladies . . . . .168 Hunker Eskellessie, a fountain on the Asiatic Shore of the Bosphorus . . . . . .172 Bosphorus from the Giant's Mountain . . . . 174 Teskere, or Turkish Passport, with an Endorsement . . 177 The Castles of the Dardanelles . . . 225 Sketch of the Plains of Troy, with the Author's route . 232 Inscriptions found upon the Plains of Troy [Nos. 1, 2, and 3] 236 Distant View of the Bay and City of Smyrna . • ILLUSTRATIONS.

Chapter I

Departure from Vienna. — Deutch Altenbourg. — View of Presbourg. — Hungarian Villages. — Peasantry. — Pest and Ofen. — Gale of Wind on the Steppe of Soraskar. — Nature of the Country. — Felegyhaza. — Szegedin. — Temeswar. — Negligence of outpost. — Lugos. — Lenneck on the Maros. — Deva. — Costume of Transylvania. — Siboth, and Latin of the Country. — Hermanstadt. — Rothen Thurm. — Saxon Co lonies. — Quarantine Station.— Frontier. — Kinnin. — Giurgius Steriopoli. — Anecdote. - - - - 1 — 21

Chapter II

Passage over the Carpathian Mountains. — Exertions and perseverance of Wallachian Guides. — Kurte d'Argish. — Cos tume of Wallachians. — Fording the River Argish.— Gipsies collecting Gold-dust. — Houses and Haystacks. — Churches and Convents. — Crucifixes. — Pitesti. — Steriopoli's Chateau. — Waggons drawn by Buffaloes. — Bucharest. — British Con sulate. — Dr. Griffiths. — Presentation to the Hospodar. — Go- CONTENTS. X vem.nent and Slate of Wallachia.— Soiree at Dr. Griffiths'. — Marli Ballacciano.— Torches of Bucharest - 22—37

Chapter III

Departure from Bucharest Mode of Travelling.— Night at Tiya.— Wallachian Villages.— Giurgevo. — Embarkation of horses. — Ferryboats. — Danube. — Ruschuck. — Khan. — Eagerness of Turkish Soldiery to learn European tactics. — Foitifications of Ruschuck.— Evening Devotions of Hadjee Achmet and Surrudjee. — Illuminated Minarets of Rasgratz. — Khan at Rasgratz.— Ramazan of the Turks, and Religious scruples. — Tumuli and Cemeteries. — Ruined Towns and Villages.— View of the Balkan.— Sylvan flowers.— Bulgarian cottages, costume, and manners. — Shumla, or Chumla. — Gipsies. — Dragoleu. — Dancing girls. — Midnight ride. — Chali Kavack. — Hadjee Achmet's pistols. — Fording the river Kamtchi Su. — Gallantry of Turkish peasants. — Passage over the Balkan. — Nocturnal ride. — Carnabat. — Pastures at the footof the Balkan. — Conduct of Turkish herdsmen. — Scenery about Brimale. — Fording a river. — Forests. — Buffaloes. — Faki.- Roumeliote peasantry. — Country beyond Turki. — Kirk Iklessee. — Conduct of Hadjee Mehmet. — Scene in the Khan. — Nocturnal ride to Burgaz ... 38 — 75

Chapter IV

Departure from Burgaz. — Plains of Roumelia. — Tumuli, and observations thereon. — Caristrania. — Obelisks. — Break fast. — Pasha of Burgaz, with his Charem, or Harem. — Bridges and Pave. — Nature of the country. — Tchorlu. — Departure from Tchorlu.— Deserts.— Sea of Marmora. — View of Sely vria. — Narrow escape of our baggage horse Town of CONTENTS. XI Selyvria. — Stone bridges. — Buados. — Clean cafe. — Supper with Tartar. — Voices of the [maums before day. — Depar ture from Buados.— Nature of our route. — Turkish troops of Nizam Djedid. — Costume and equipment. — Buyuk Tchekmadjeh — Troops and sick soldiers. — Kutchuk Tchekmadjeh — First view of Constantinople. — Desolation of the environs. — Cemeteries. — Entrance into the city. — Embarkation. — View of the Port and Squadron. — Pera. — Hotel.— Repose. ... - 77—92

Chapter V

Visits of Ceremony Hasty tour of Pera. — Scenery. — Grouping of Orientals.- Armenian females and cemetery. — Greek women. — British embassy. — Attack of Cholera Morbus. — Hadjee Achmet's visit and exculpation. — Visit to the walls of Constantinople. — Canine scavengers. — Anecdote of Turkish humanity. — Ottoman squadron. — Visit to the Antiquities of Constantinople. — Palace of the Divan. —Seraglio.— Human heads at the Gate thereof. — Failure in an attempt, to get into the Mosque of Santa Sophia. — Caserne of Nizam Djedid. — Conduct of the A°*a. — Antiquities. — M. de Ribeaupierre. — State of the Ottoman fleet. — Candiote sailors.— State of the Nizam Djedid Cemeteries. — Hydraulic columns. — Sultan going to Mosque.— Bazaars and Bezesteens. — Environs of Pera. Turks in the cemeteries. — Turtle doves. — Tomb-stones. — Contrast between my hotel and the neighbourhood of Pera. - - 93-126

Chapter VI

Visit to Belgrade — Bendts.— Romaika.— Return to Pera, by Aqueducts and Sweet Waters — Dancing Dervishes.— Conduct of Turkish females. — Lapidation by Turks.— CONTENTS. Dolma Batchi.- Visit to the Sweet Waters.— Mosque of Eyoub.— Anecdote of Englishman and Eunuchs. — View of Constantinople. — Excursion to Therapia and Buyuk Dere. — Scenery on the Bosphorus - - 127—155

Chapter VII

Roumeli Hissar. — Excursion to Scutari and Fener Batchi. Trip to the Islands of the Propontis. — Monasteries of Chalki. — Tombstone of Sir Edward Barton, and Inscrip tion. — Papas. — Principo. — Pic-nic. — Turkish Musicians Rom'aika. — Convent and Shrine of Panagia. — Maniacs and Idiots. — Return to Pera.— Hall at the British Palace. — Pic-nic at Djouk Soyou, on the Bosphorus. — Reis Effendi's wife. — Conversation with her. — Excursion on the Bos phorus. — Mosquito Fleet. — Sultan going to Mosque by Water. — Picnic at Hunker Eskellessie. — View from the Giant's Mountain Gouter at Buyuk Dere Return to Pera. — Farewell Visit to the Bosphorus Proposal from the Swedish Minister. — Disappointment. — Preparations for Departure. — Determination to go by Sea to Smyrna in an English brig — Visites de Conge - - 156_219

Chapter VIII

Departure from Constantinople Sea of Marmora. — Hel lespont, and notice upon the castles of the Dardanelles. — Tenedos. — Greek Vice-Consul and his daughter.— Turkish Aga. — Nizam Djedid. — Visit to the Plains of Troy. — Locusts. — Sources of the Scamander. — Bournarbashi. — Cemeteries. — Simois Callicolone.— Hallil Elli. — Supposed Temple of Apollo Thymbrius. — Return to Bournarbashi. —Incivility of Turks.— Bivouack at Yeikle— Return to CONTENTS. XIII the brig Sail for Smyrna, escorted by an Austrian brig of-war. — Arrival at Smyrna. — Reception from the British Consul ..... 220—246

Chapter IX

Visits to the Cambrian — Turkish bath Promenades in Smyrna, and lapidation by women and children. — Ex cursions to Bournabat, Boujat, and Sedique.— Passage of locusts. — Remarks upon the Bay of Smyrna and its city. — Character of the Pasha Hassan. — Murder of the late Pasha, Mehmet Effendi, by Koshrew Capitan Pasha. — Cape Colonna. — Poros. — Mavrocordato and Tricoupi. — Hydra and Spezzia. — Napoli di Romania. — Reflections on the state of Greece ..... 247—286

Chapter X

Visit to Bourgi, and to Lord Cochrane. — Rencontre with Colonel Heydeck. — General Church. — Visit to Grivas in the Palamide. — Departure in his Majesty's ship Seringa patam for Athens. — Dandolo fires into the town of Spezzia. — Bay of Salamis. — Visit to Athens. — Piræus. — Phalerum. — Delhis. — Interview with the Pasha Ibrahim's Divan Effen di. — Visit to the Pasha. — Dinner and debauchery of Turks. — Via Sacra. — Jupiter Olympius. — Desolation and ruin of Athens. — Temple of Theseus. — Reflections. — Hill of Mars. — Recollections. — Musæan Hill, and tomb of Phillopappus. — Conduct of Turkish sentinels Return towards the Pi ræus. — Greek Tambouri, and field of battle. — Apprehen sions and conduct of Turkish escort. — Sunset upon the Bay of Salamis, and our re-embarkation for the ships. — Visit to Egina and its Temple. — Poros and its lemon groves. — Dispersion of our little Squadron.— Inner harbour of Poros, CONTENTS. and visit to Prince Mavrocordato. — Departure on board the Raleigh for Cyprus.— Arrival at Larneca. — Change of des tination, and new projects. — Visit to Larneca and the British Consul. — Cypriotes. — Dinner at the Consul's. — Observations upon the Saracenic or Gothic architecture. — State of Cy prus. — Arrival of the Mootselim.— Grand dinner at the Con sul's, and visit of ceremony to the Mootselim. — Departure for and arrival at Baruti, or Bairout. - 287 — 324

Chapter XI

Description of Bairout. — Visit to the British Consul — Excursion to Mount Lebanon. — St. George and the Dragon. — Description of the scenery in the Mountain. — Maronite Convent and Monks. — Consular quarter. — Remains of Phœnician Temple. — Ave Maria and Signor Fioravanti di Bologna. — Picturesque heads and figures of Maronite Ascetics. — Striking group at the Consul's. — Return to Bairout. — Head-dress of Maronite women.— Express from Lady H. Stanhope. — Sail for Seide. — Return to Bairout Departure of the Raleigh, and my disembarkation. — American Missionaries. — Venere Astarte and ancient coins and idol. — Occupations and incidents Warlike rumours, and Frank consternation My metamorphosis from Frank to Mameluke. — "Story Teller." — Departure for the Moun tains.—Encampment. — Antiquities. — Emir. — Sarcophagus and Aqueduct. — Sarcophagi. — Feast of the Cross. — Came leons. — Bee Eaters. — Message from the Emir Beshir.— Peparations for departure. ... 32,*; — JOURNEY FROM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

Chapter I

Departure from Vienna. — Deutch Altenbourg. — View of Presbourg. — Hungarian Villages. — Peasantry. — Pest and Ofen. — Gale of Wind on the Steppe of Soraskar. — Nature of the Country. — Felegyhaza. — Szegedin. — Temeswar. — Negligence of outpost. — Lugos. — Lenneck on the Maros. — Deva. — Costume of Transylvania Siboth, and Latin of the Country. — Hermanstadt. — Rothen Thurm. — Saxon Colonies. — Quarantine Station. — Frontier. — Kinnin. — Giurgius Steriopoli. — Anecdote. A wonderful revolution had just taken place at Constantinople, which attracted the attention of the civilized world, and which seemed to be the dawn of a new era in the history of one of the most extraordinary and interesting empires of the earth. The Sultan VOL. I. B DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA. Mahmoud had trod in the steps of the greatest reformer of nations the world had yet seen — Peter the Great, and, like that monarch, had ex tirpated a factious and ungovernable soldiery, who upon all occasions had shown themselves the enemies of civilization and of the best interests of humanity.

My imagination was cap tivated by the grandeur of the supposed Bar barian Emperor's character, and I resolved to repair to the capital of Constantine, and to see with my own eyes that admirable man, who at one blow had annihilated his most dangerous enemies, and had at once shaken off those shackles of prejudice and fanaticism which had for ages bound his Imperial predecessors and the whole East in the worst of slaveries. An opportunity for indulging my wishes soon occurred, and accordingly, March 24, 1827, I left Vienna at ten o'clock for Constantinople, in company with an English gentleman who was going thither upon business of importance, in his caleche with two horses. The weather was threatening, and we saw nothing extraordinary on our route as far as Deutch Altenbourg, Avhere DEUTCH ALTENBOURG. 3 there is a remarkable tumulus, supposed to be the tomb of a Turkish general slain here some hundred and fifty years ago.

This I do not believe, as I penetrated some little way into it, by means of an excavation which was making in it, and I observed that its basis was composed of an irregular mass of sand stone, and that its interior bore no appearance of being raised by art. It may be, however, that a natural protuberance in the surface of the soil suggested this place as a favorable spot for the erection of a tumulus, and in terring the illustrious dead within it. We saw several immense stone shot in the old walls of the town ; supposed to have been fired into it by the Turks at the period above mentioned. Upon leaving Deutch Altenbourg we caught some fine views of the Danube, and shortly after Presbourg, with its lofty citadel upon an imposing eminence, burst upon us, with the city and the Danube at its feet.

It is not easy to fancy a finer view than this. As my companion was charged with despatches from Sir Henry b HUNGARY. Wellesley to Mr. Canning, we had deemed it advisable to proceed with all haste to our des tination, and had purposely (to my regret) left Presbourg out of our route, on our left hand. The roads now became most dreadfully bad, the mud being up to the axle-trees. The Hungarian villages are like the Irish or South A merican, but if possible more dirty than cither. Their chief characteristic seemed to us to be mud and filth ; but nevertheless the cottages seemed to be comfortable. They are all of one form, having the gable-ends towards the road, and lighted merely at these ends. They compose one long straggling street, in which you sink mid-wheel in mud and ordures. The Hungarian peasantry resemble the Gau chos of the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, and as I learn, the great family of Esclavonians, who are scattered over so large a portion of the south east of Europe.

They are clad in sheep skins, and are dirty and greasy enough.* They * The holiday costume of the better classes is very similar to the uniforms of the Hussar regiments of Europe. PEST AND OFEN. 5 are, nevertheless, well fed, cheerful, humble, obliging, and apparently contented. They speak a kind of confusion of tongues, Hungary being an immense receptacle of the various Nomades, such as Esclavonians, Germans, gipsies, Greeks, and tutti-quanti. Latin is under stood, and even spoken by the better class of peasantry or rather bourgeoisie. The nobles all speak it fluently, and the debates in the Diet are carried on in that language. We spent the first night in the carriage, the weather being sufficiently mild to admit of the carriage being open. March 25. — The roads still execrable all the day.

The country without a stone or bit of gravel to make a road of; all, all, was mud We reached Ofen at midnight, and crossed the Danube over a prodigious bridge of boats to the city of Pest. Ofen is frequently called Buda, which is, I believe, its Turkish appellation. The city of Pest stands on the left bank of the Danube. It is celebrated, in conjunction with Buda, for its literature, its observatory, and uni- PEST AND OFEN. versity. The united population of the two cities is about 100,000. Buda is renowned for its warm mineral baths, constructed, I believe, by the Turks, when they were so long masters of this country ; and I apprehend that the etymo logy of its German appellation is derived from " Ofen," an oven, stove, or furnace. We obtained, by the assistance of a watchman, ad mittance into the inn " Das Weiss Schiff," — " The White Ship," and after much delay, pro cured beds and water.

March 26. — At six we arose, and were, as is usual in bad inns, much cheated and uncivilly treated by the German landlord. We left Pest at eight, and caught a splendid view of Ofen, with its citadel, its towers, and domes, and bridge, and river, as we galloped along over a good chaussee towards the south-east ; a tre mendous gale blowing from the north-west; the Danube foaming, fretting, and tearing its angry course with immense velocity through a sandy and desert-looking country. At the first post, Soraskar, the country became one immense tract of sand, without a blade of grass, or a PEST AND OFEN. 7 tree, or a bush, to relieve the monotony of the plain. The dust rolled around in clouds, and penetrated in all directions. The light of the sun was obscured as by an eclipse, and the horizon was enveloped as in a thick fog.

I suffered dreadfully in my eyes, and had reason to thank my stars that we had il vento in popa, for I should otherwise have been most assuredly blinded, as, indeed, were apparently many of the unfortunate peasants who were going to wards Pest. We saw many houses unroofed by the gale, and some roofs in the act of flying off. I never witnessed such another gale in Ireland, or even off Cape Horn. I observed several little animals of the weazel kind, which burrow in the earth : they are of a dirty white colour, and have a bushy tail, (query, are they what are called ground-squirrels ?) We saw several large buzzards. Towards sunset, a storm of rain coming on abated the wind a little. I saw an immense large brown bird, which, when it rose from its heavy flight, I judged to be of the vulture tribe.

We also saw several storks. We had by this time quitted the sand, and the coun- FELEGYHAZA. try began to assume a better appearance. Had I been blindfolded, and placed down in this country, and were the bandage to be with drawn suddenly from my eyes, I should have declared that I stood in the midst of the Pam pas of South America. The same boundless plain, the same bogs or pantanos, the same swarthy, savage-looking population, and the same huts or wigwams, (for they are but little better than the Ranchos of the Gauchos.) We halted at eleven at night at the post-house of Felegyhaza ; here we took a cup of tea, (which, by the bye, made me very sick when I got into the carriage). The postmaster was an intelli gent, civil, young German soldier, who had served in Italy, and spoke Italian fluently.

We passed the night in the carriage, always pursuing our route. The weather cold, and uncomfortable enough. March 27. — We breakfasted at Szegedin,* Here is a curious old fortress of brick, having case mates, &c. flanked by round towers. It is a kind of irregular square, and is all in decay and ruins. In this town were stationed two battalions of Hungarian infantry, and the regiment of the King of England (Hussars.) TEMESWAR. upon excellent coffee and milk. Here we came to the river Theisse, which falls into the Danube, not far to the south-west. The country still one vast plain, but more green and smiling. At 2. 30. we crossed the river in the ferry-boat, to a little village called Klein-Kan. The view from the bank is pretty and civilized. Here we dined well upon proached eggs, ham, and soup.

Our track still continued over an im mense plain, full of ruts and holes. We saw several vultures and cranes. We travelled all night, the roads being still execrable. March 28. — At four in the morning, we reached the outer barrier of the fortress of Temes war, and found not a soul at the gate, either as sentinel or watchman. We only obtained ad mittance into the fortress by means of our pos tilion's activity, who clambered over the barri cade, and reached the corps de garde, where he found a corporal, with whom he returned and opened the gate. This circumstance did not give us a very favourable impression of the discipline of the garrison, in one of the strongest fortresses of the Austrian empire. We break- LUGOS fasted at the post-house, and entered a formal protest in the post-book against the conduct of the outpost, a copy of which was sent to the commandant for his edification.

On leaving the town, we caught a fine view of the Carpa thian Mountains, and as we advanced, of many lofty glaciers backing the lower ranges. Near Lugos our postilion threw down his horse, and broke the pole. The road thus far is good and chausseed. We dined at Lugos, a large town, with some good houses. Here is a fine church of the Greek rite, having a curious fresco painting on its western front, representing the death of the blessed Virgin, who is lying in her bed, while the three persons of the Trinity are looking complacently down upon her from heaven. The " Bannat," in which country we now were, is a fine, open, and well-cultivated plain, watered by four rivers, i. e. the Maros, Danube, Tibiscus (or Theisse), and the Tcherna, which make a kind of rhomboid round Temes war. Some parts of the country are, however, LUGOS. very marshy and insalubrious.

The cottages of the peasantry are made of wattles, and plas tered with mud : the poultry and pigs seem ing to be quite as well lodged as their masters. The weather was now delicious. About an hour from Lugos, we came to a broken bridge, and had great difficulty in forcing the carriage across the deep brook which the broken bridge was thrown over. In this operation we were civilly assisted by some Germans, who were going by in a Styrian waggon. We had pre viously endeavoured to prevail upon two gipsies, who were tranquil spectators of our difficulties, to help us ; but one of them refused to get into the water, and to wet his feet. The rotten state of the harness, which broke at every pull, made us almost despair of extricat ing the carriage from its position ; but fortu nately, we had some spare rope with us, and by this means at length succeeded in drawing the carriage up the steep bank.

The inhabitants of this country do not speak German, but a dialect of Latin mixed up with Sclavonian, and DEVA we had considerable difficulty and trouble in making the postilions comprehend us. At Kassan my companion had a great fracas with the postmaster about the negligence with which the service was performed, and the time we were detained there for horses. Shortly after, we came to a dreadful bog, through which we had to toil until day-light, when we had a fine view of the river Maros. March 29. — Breakfasted at Lenneck upon the Maros : here the scenery is very beautiful, the river being broad and winding its way through lofty mountains. At Deva, the next post, is a fine old Roman Castle, standing upon a conical eminence of rock. Augustus and Trajan are both cited as the builders of this castle.

Dr. Clarke inclines to the latter, as Roman coins of his reign and of his successors are found here. It appears, however, to have been repaired and re-fortified a la gothique, pro-. bably by the Teutonic Knights, or the Knights Templars, who it seems held lands here and further onwards upon the frontier, and who, DEVA 13 according to ancient chronicles, were serviceable barriers against the Ottomans. We had fine views of the glaciers upon leaving the town; and I made a sketch of the position. The road this day led through a fine champaign country, with plenty of wood, corn and pasture, primroses and violets all around us ; we saw many vultures, and a vast variety of the buzzard tribe. The vulture seems to me to be the vultur corvus of Linnæus, or what is commonly called the Turkey buzzard, from its resemblance to the black turkey.

The dress of the peasants is remarkably picturesque, the high Dacian cap, and long vestment of sheepskins, just as that warlike nation is represented in the Roman bas reliefs, illustrative of Trajan's conquests in this part of the world. The women wear a peculiar kind of jacket with open bosom, hanging sleeves, and somewhat or namented with gold or silver : they have hanging before and behind them, from the waist down to the midleg, a kind of apron of che quered stuff, somewhat resembling the tartan of the Celts: (query, does this not indicate one com- HERMANSTADT. mon origin ?) We were now in Transylvania ; the villages savage and dirty, cottages of wat tles, the postilion speaking Latin. " Sun mult) rupi, domine," said he to me, whenever the road was bad. We saw many gipsies. We dined at Siboth, a neat posthouse, but with very few re sources for hungry travellers.

Here we saw many letters of which the address was written in Latin. The roads now becamebad,andwetooksix horses. March 30. — At day -light, we saw Herman stadt before us, bounded on three of its sides by mountains, and on the fourth by the lofty tract of Transylvanian downs. The situation beauti ful, and as the sun arose the scenery was quite bewitching, for here he gilded the tops of the many domes and cupolas of Hermanstadt, and there he threw all his succession of tints upon the summits of the lofty glaciers. We were much amused on seeing the peasants coming out of the town, and going into it, driving their cattle and carts, the women sitting astride upon the horses, and performing the duties of the whip with great dexterity. They were gene- HERMANSTADT. 15 rally very pretty. Hermanstadt is a large dirty straggling town, the mud being half axle deep in the streets.

A little river, called the Zibbin, runs outside of the walls on the Deva side, which afterwards falls into the Olta or Aluta. The town has been formerly strongly fortified, and has often proved itself a bulwark against its Osmanlee enemies. Its walls are now fallinp* into decay, and still bear marks of barbarian violence and prowess, in the shape of shot holes, which are more carefully preserved by the good citizens, than the walls, which show such honour able records. It contains about sixteen thou sand inhabitants, and has several convents and churches. We were detained at the post office by the utter negligence of the postmaster, until 7. 15. My companion went to the Comman dant, and at length procured an order for the post horses, without which order no traveller can proceed on his journey.

The views on leaving Hermanstadt are mag nificent, for you now turn your face towards the famous Pass of Roth en Thurm or Red Tower. ROTHEN THURM. We reached the Rothen Thurm at half-past nine, and found there two very pretty Saxon girls, Catty and Lilie, descendants of the Saxon colonies of the heptarchy, which have been for ages established in this country, and also in Hungary. They are always the most industri ous, cleanly, respectable and thriving people of the nation, among whom they are settled. Their origin is involved in obscurity and tradition. Here is the last post on the Austrian frontier, and a military station with a Lieutenant-colonel commanding it. He was absent, and we breakfasted in a miserable canteen. However, as we were extremely hungry, we relished fried ham, eggs, coffee, and brown bread exceedingly.

The Red Tower is in itself nothing remarkable, but below it are several tiers of heavy cannon frown ing down upon the pass : on the left side of the road is a chancellery or douane, and here your passport is viseed and countersigned by the com mandant or his deputy. We enjoyed the luxury of a good purification, shaving and clean linen, after having passed four nights in the carriage. ROTHEN THURM. The scenery in the pass is nothing very striking. A river* runs rapidly through it. We reached the quarantine station at three. Here we halted to procure information as to our proceeding on wards with the carriage over the mountains. We found several couriers of various nations waiting here to carry on the next dispatches from Con stantinople. I called upon the director of the quarantine, and talked German to his wife, a good old lady ; who, finding that we had no provisions with us, most kindly furnished us with a ham and three loaves of bread, for which she would accept of no remuneration, and which we afterwards found of the most essential service.