Three years in Persia; with travelling adventures in Koordistan

Preface

. In these literary days, when there are nearly as many writers as readers, some apology might be deemed necessary for appearing in print ; but, as Eastern subjects are generally deemed peculiarly interesting, and nothing having yet appeared of the land of " Iran" in the shape of the work now sub mitted to the reader, the author hopes he may be considered to have had sufficient grounds for venturing on the field of publication. It is with extreme diffidence he has glanced at the political and commercial relations between Great Britain and Persia, since, in their present anomalous state, they are so difficult to define : he believes, however, the information on the subject

PREFACE.

. he has been enabled to obtain, will make that portion of his volumes worthy of attention. The travelling incidents in Koordistan are from letters penned at the time to the author's friends in England. This he trusts will not be without its recommendation ; it being usually admitted that " one line written on the spot is worth a thousand recollections." Although the author makes no pretensions to any thing beyond slight sketches of Persia and its inhabitants, written during his various wanderings over that country, he is by no means indifferent to the public favour : indeed, his seeking it has, in Persian phraseology, caused " the nightingale of the pen to flutter around the rose-bud of expectation." He will only add, in words from the same source, " may its bounty increase, and its shadow never be less!" London, 1st April, 1841. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I. The

" KHELAAT TJ PUSHAN." Departure to witness the Ceremony — Interesting Appearances on arrival — The Shah Zadehs, or Princes — Interview with the Prince — The Kaimacan — Abbas Meerza — Court Ceremonies — The Poet Laureat— The Royal Band— The Camel Swivels — Ancient Custom of conferring Dresses of Honour — Persian Duplicity — The Serbozes — The Azerbijanees — The Prince's Return, &c. Page 1

Chapter II. The

" TAUJ U DOULUT." The Courouk, or Royal Proclamation — Sudden Arrival of the Tauj — The Procession — The Takht Ravan — The Andaroon The Tauj's History — Persian Jealousy — Female seclusion enforced by the Koran — The Eunuchs, &c. . . VI CONTENTS.

Chapter III. The

" MESHEDEES." The Khoflan Khu— The Kizzil Ozzan— The Kafelah of Pilgrims — The Moolahs— The Pilgrimage —The Tomb of Imaum Reza — The Hadjis — Pilgrimage to Mecca — The Syeeds — Persian Shrines — The Saint's Tomb of Imaum Zadeh — Interment of the Dead — The Grave-grounds — Sabbath-eve Visits — The devastating Cholera of 1830— The Numaz Jah— Mahomedan Tradition — Visiting the Burying-grounds, &c. . 23

Chapter IV. The Evening Salaam

Persian Executions — Barbarous Customs — Ceremony of the Salaam — The Royal Band — The JMujlis, or Assembly — Persian Mobility— Futtee Ali Shah— The King's Beard — Persian Etiquette — The King's Gholaums — The Group of Princes — His Majesty's Return to the Nagaristan Palace — The King a respectable Poet — Hafiz — Copy of one of his Poems — Ferdoosee— Saadi— Epitaphs of Hafiz and Saadi — The King at Dinner — Persian Cookery — Government of the Harem — His Majesty's Contempt for other Monarchs — The Chief Executioner, &c. 36

Chapter V. The Persian

" HAKEEMS," ETC Tehran Climate — Departure for Sulimania — Kasvine — 111 in a Persian Caravansery — Meerza Aboo Thaloub — The Hakeem's Visit — The Hadji — Cured by the Doctor — His extreme Politeness — Hippocrates in Persia — Veiled Invalids at Tehran — Persian Surgery — Cures for Blindness and the Ague The Hakeem's Visits to the Harem — Bigotted Persian "Customs — The Astrologer's Prescription — Taken for a Hakeem — The Royal Draught — Morison's Pills, &c. . . .51 CONTENTS. VII

Chapter VI. Royal Favour In Persia

Zhorab Khan — His Character and Disgrace — Restored to the Royal Favour — Another Khan disgraced and restored — His Majesty's sportive Use of Power — Abul Hassan Khan— His History— Appointed Ambassador to the Court of St. James's — His Return to Persia— The Game of Duplicity between the King and the Khan — Is sent Ambassador to St. Petersburgh — His Book of Wonders — The Khan's Character — Honoured with the Order of the Lion and Sun — Royal Firmauns — Copy of one, conferring the Order — Persian Titles, &c. . . 65

Chapter VII. The

"BAGY SEFFRE." The Ruins around Tabreez — Earthquakes in Persia — Arrival at the "Garden of Delight" — Its Fruits and Flowers — The Palace — Persian Paintings — The " Taukjas" — Persian Bricklayers — The " Takhts," or Sleeping-places — Persian Gardens — Sir John Macdonald Kennier — His Arrival in Persia — His Death at the " Bagy SefTre" — His Burial at Echmiazin — The Fortress of Rushedia — The Mosque Sultan Kazan, &c. . 76

Chapter VIII

A VISIT TO SULIMANIA. Armakaneh — Zenjen — The Plains of Sultaniah — The Tomb of Ismael, Khouda Benda — The Eleaut Tribes — Koramdereh — Kerishkeen — Kazvine — The arid Plains — The Kenauts — The Mirage— Arrival at Kishlock — Dreary Travelling — Falling in with the Persian Troops — Military Discipline — Sulimania — The Royal Residence— Gallery of Paintings— Agreeable Rest from Exhaustion and Fatigue CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter IX. Toorkamanchai

The late Treaty of Peace between Persia and Russia signed at this Village — The " Rysh Soofeid"— Russian Liberality — Persian Dogs — Koordish Village — Arrival at Sheik der Abaud The Khan's Village Parliament — The Ketkodeh's Reports — Persian Legislation — Plundering the Khan — The Felek — The Bagy-Zardaloo — Mr. Williamson — Mining Remains — Persian Deceptions — Persian Servants — The Hak-Reezi, &c. . 106

Chapter X. Henry Martin

Dining at the General's Table at Erzroume— The Armenian Bishop, Serrafino — His Acquaintance with Martin, and opinion of the English — Complains of Martin's Journal — The Italian Doctor — His Report of our Missionary's Arrival and Burial at Tocat — Commemorative Stone to his Memory — Reminiscences of Martin — His Stable at Marand — His Translation of the Scriptures — Protected by a Royal Firmaun — Bigotry of the Moslems, &c. 119

Chapter XI. Karadagh

Persian Compliments — Hadji Cossim Khan's Family — Arrival at Overjon — Surprising the Persian Villagers — Passing the Hadji River — The Village of Herries — Persian Duplicity — Koordish Encampment— A moving Village— Mountain Scenery Climate Changes — The Village of Bahool — Persian Peasantry The Locusts — Village Wanderings, &c. . .132

Chapter XII. The

" IMARET KORSHEED." Visit to the " Palace of the Sun" — The Throne Room — Persian Paintings— The " Takht," or Throne— The Outough Almas CONTENTS. IX — The Gulistan, or the " Garden of Roses"— The Outough Hyenah— The Outough Bulbul— The Kuleh Ferengee— The Aumeneh Tauj— The Royal Stud— Beds ofRoses— The Ark, or Citadel of Tehran— The Bazaars— Sleeping-places— Evening Groups— Grotesque Scenes, &c 149

Chapter XIII. Night Travel In Persia

Arrival at Koramdereh, or "The Happy Valley"— Persian Robberies— Star-light Lucubrations— The " Subah Kauzib," or false Dawn — Sultineah — Kush Kand Persian Villages contrasted with Turkish Villages — Riding through the Roof — Persian abundant Produce — Anecdote of the Court of Pleas — The Abjectness of the Villagers — Arrival at Nickpy — Destructive Troops — The Kajawahs — Asiatic Travel, &c. 164

Chapter XIV. Persian Avarice

The Love of Money inherent in the Persians — Jaffier Kouli Khan — Burying Money in Persia — The late Shah's Avarice, and ingenious devices to procure Money— Sir John Malcolm's Anecdote — Modes of raising the Ways and Means — Persian Finances — Horrible Outrage at Bushire— The Town pillaged by organised Plunderers — Lives lost — Immense Booty, &c. •vl81

Chapter XV. The

"RAMAZAN." The Mahomedan Fast — The Muzzins calling the Azan — The Zeal of the Moslems— The Khan of Makoo at Prayers— The Armenian Fasts — The Koran the reigning Fashion amongst the Persians— Their Sabbath-eves— The Hadji's Enquiries of our Ramazan Customs in England— Of the Greek Churches Religious Fete at Erzroume— Building Mahomedan Temples, &c. 1" CONTENTS. X

Chapter XVI. Mahomedan Vengeance

Massacre of the Russian Ambassador and his Suite— Copy of Letter from Ali Shah— His Report of Mr. Grybydoff 's Reception at Tehran— The Ill-treatment of two Armenian Women —A Mob collected— Dreadful Massacre— Copy of the Prince's Letter to General Paskevitch — His Proposal how to consider the affair at St. Petersburgh— Letter from the Shah of Persia to his Son, Abbas Meerza— Of the Ambassador's Reception — The Conduct of Meerza Yhacoub — Of the two Women of Moosh — The Mob attack the Ambassador's House — The Elchee is killed — The Zelli Sultaun sent to repress the Mob — He saves the Secretary and three Cossacks — His Majesty's Speculations on the Event — His Grief and Anxiety — Demands Assistance of his Son— Some Additions to the King's Gazette — The Ambassador's offensive Conduct — His many Indiscretions — The People incited by the insulted Women — The Bodies of six Musselmans exposed at the Mosques — The Frenzy of the Mob — They kill the Ambassador and his Suite — Piles of Human Rubbish — The Grief of the Crown Prince at Tabreez — A General Mourning ordered Report of the Affair from the St. Petersburgh Gazette 202

Chapter XVII. The Tatar Gallop

Departure from Trebisonde — Agreement with the Tatar — Arrival at Gevaslic — At Karakaban — Gumish Khaneh The Tatar's Inspiration — Spirit-stirring Travel— Arrival at Baiboot — Karagulah — Ash Kaleh — The Mineral Waters of Elidja — Erzroume — Hassan Kaleh — The impatient Tatar — Delli Baba — Zadecan — Turkish baking — Torprach Kaleh Passing the Euphrates — Diadin — Lodging at a Koordish Village—Sleeping Arrangements — Khoe — Arrival at Tabreez Friendly Greetings, &c CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XVIII. The

" TAKHT KAJAR." Country Palace— Persian Blight— Entering the Castle— Per. sian Paintings— Anecdotes of Agha Mahmoud Shah— His Cruelties— Contribution of Eyes— Builds Towers of Heads- Vengeance of the Shah— The Tyrant murdered— The King's Avarice — District of Shemroun — Climate changes, &c. 245

Chapter XIX. Tabreez

Arrival in the City — Its singular Appearance — Persian Delusions dissipated — The Mud Walls — The Fortifications— Marvellous Impressions — The Bazaars — Their motley Occupants — -The Dervishes, &c. — The Shops — The grotesque passing World — The Caravanseries — The Workshops — Manufacture of Fire-arms— Persian Enamelling — The Merchants — Difficult Streets — Persian Simulation — Ancient Splendour of the City — The Hummums — Description of a Bath — Its sundry Visitors — The Hummumchee — The Grand Wash-room — Shampooing — The natural Baths of Elidja and Teflis — Of the Tabreez Marble — A Mineral Petrifaction — The Process of Consolidating — The Climate of Tabreez — The Gipsies — A Cure for the Plague 256

Chapter XX. Caravan Travelling

Commencing the Journey — The Travellers' Rest — Turkish Troops at Delli Baba — Taken for a Russian Spy — Tried by the Village Divan — Passed off for an Elchee — The Agha's Politeness — The Colonel's Visit at another Village — Departing early with the Caravan — The Muleteers — Bivouacked under the Mountains of Debar — The various Groups — The CONTENTS. XII Mountains of Teches— The Pass of the Ten Thousand— A Genoese Castle, the Rendezvous of the Crusaders — Dr. Schultz —Caravan Breakfast — Turkish Guards — Avajek — The Khan's Hospitality— Koordish Escort— Rocky District — Left alone on the Mountains — The Koflan Khu — to Arkand — Ill-usage of an Ambassador at this Village — Persian Cara vanseries contrasted with Turkish Caravanseries . . 277

Chapter XXI. The

"EDE Y NU ROOZ." The New Year's Day — Persian Report of this Festival — The Fetes — The " Peishcush," or Presents — Royal Largesses — Voluntary Taxation— The Royal Squeeze— The Shah's Splendour — The Kalaats — Ancient Biblical Customs — Court Etiquette — Sir John Malcolm's Presentation to the Shah — Observance of the Nu Rooz at Tehran — Introducing the Ambassador — The King on his Throne — His immense Riches — The Triumph of Despotism — Royal Incense — Ceremonies of the Peishcush — From the Governor of Khorassan — The Governors of Kerman and of Farestan — From the Beglerbeg of Ispahan — Persian Games — The Fireworks — Horseracing, &c 297

Chapter XXII. Abbas Meerza

Departure to visit the Prince — Persian mode of visiting — Arrival at the Palace — Introduced to the Prince — Subjects of the Conference — Description of the Prince — Of the Palace — The Prince's Invitation to British Emigrants — A liberal Mahomedan — Mr. Missionary Wolfe — The Prince's Gallantry and Courage — His English Predilections — The Prince's Death, &c ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME I. PAGE FUTTEE ALI SHAH FRONTISPIECE. THE ADTHOR SURPRISING THE PERSIAN VILLAGERS AT OVERJON . 136 THE TATAR GALLOP 228 THE AUTHOR INTRODUCED TO AEUAS MEERZA REMINISCENCES OF A THREE YEARS* RESIDENCE IN PERSIA.

Chapter I. The

" KHELAAT U PUSHAN." It is generally about the end of May that the ceremony takes place of the prince arraying himself in the royal robe of honour, conferred upon him by his Majesty of Persia ; and this, according to court etiquette, must be done publicly. Near all the different cities, buildings are purposely erected for this ceremony, called the " Khelaat u Pushan," or place for putting on' the honorary dress with which the prince is invested by his sovereign. The public exhibition of it is intended VOL. I. B to show that he still basks in the Shah's favour — the countenance of the " King of Kings" con tinuing to shine upon him. In a pretty sheltered spot, looking luxuriant amid the barren hills surrounding it, richly watered, and wooded with the poplar, the chinar, and other foliage, in the midst of a small lake, stands a tall, spiral belvidere, in the upper story of which the prince receives his numerous visitors.

This is sur rounded by about three acres of well shaven lawn, on which thousands of the " Azerbijanees"'were squatted about in different groups, quietly awaiting the coming ceremonial. At the further end was pitched the royal tent, richly carpeted, and around it (forming a large enclosure) a treble row of the " Serboz," or infantry, was formed, which, with their huge white trousers, boots, and black caps, made not a bad line of about a thousand men. The city of Tabreez poured its contents into this delightful valley ; the day was propitious, the occasion inviting ; so " mounting the stirrup of activity to get into the saddle of accomplishment," I soon arrived with my little party amidst the large assembly whom curiosity or custom had already convened. THE KUELAAT U PUSHAN. 3 Numerous " gholaums" were galloping about, giving directions, and arranging the coming ceremony, and a happy festivity seemed to pervade all classes, as 1 mixed amongst them, to see as much as I could of their character.

There is a decent sobriety in Persian mobility that I have scarcely seen in any other ; none of your noisy ebullitions of a village wake, as in my own country ; none of the antic tricks of the mountebank, nor the low gambling of the thimble-rig ; but the sober gravitj' of smoking, undisturbed by those spirituous pota tions which give so much animal recklessness to an English mob. The troops were put through their evolutions, which I thought would not have disgraced a Hyde Park review; it was, in fact, English discipline engrafted on Persian subjects, through the inde fatigable industry of their generalissimo, the late Major Hart. In another tent, surrounded by numerous ser vants, was a group of very interesting looking " shah zadehs," or princes of different ages, from eighteen down to four years.

There were about twenty of them altogether, richly dressed, and the sons of Abbas Meerza,— being but a small portion b2 however of his family. I could not but look upon them with a great deal of interest, when I reflected how precarious is the state of royalty in Persia ; as on every accession to the throne, barbarous custom, or still more barbarous necessity, requires so many victims of the royal blood to be offered up, to quiet the fears or to establish the security of the newly raised sovereign ; or, at any rate, that the eyes of the ill-fated striplings must be sacrificed.*' Whilst looking on at this interesting scene with my friend the " hakeem bashi," the penetrating eyes of the prince soon discovered him, and the " Isheagusi," or master of the ceremonies, was im mediately sent down to summon him to the royal presence ; and as he was marched up through the broad-staring ranks of the surrounding visitors, * An English nobleman relates a curious illustration of this fact.

On visiting one of the princes, then a young lad, he found him with his eyes shut, and feeling about with both his hands, like a blind person, for his kalleoon, which his servant was presenting to him. After a moment the gentleman asked, " What are you doing, prince ? Is there any thing the matter with your eyes ?'■ " Oh, no," said the boy, "nothing; but I am practising blindness. You know that when my father dies we shall all be put to death, or have our eyes put out, so I am trying how I shall be able to manage without them." I felt thankful at not being subjected to a similar ordeal. There is nothing to me more positively dis tressing than " human ken" — I mean an aggregate of eyes, steadily fixed on their victim, and drinking in as it were his confusion. Congratulating myself on my escape from this publicity, I had retired to the cool grovy retreat, where, " sitting on my carpet of patience, I was smoking my pipe of expectation," when the appalling figure of the master of the ceremonies was making towards me, with "Sahib quj-ast" — where is the "Sahib?"

(I really cannot translate this word, 'tis ' Master,' or ' Sir,' or whatever you please.) Resistance was impossible; the prince had ordered me into his presence ; royal invitations amount to commands in this country, so I was marched through the wondering crowd, bidding defiance to my tortured feelings of mauvaise honte, which, however, I at last completely succeeded in conquering. Bowing mandarin fashion in the royal presence, I was honoured with the usual compliments and enquiries — " Damaughist chauk ast," " how is your health?" " your place has long been empty," &c. I had to endure some ten minutes court etiquette, during which the prince asked me as to my travels, how I liked Persia, and if my own country was to be compared to it; to which last question, when I recollected its mud regions, I assured his royal highness that it certainly was not.

" Barikallah," said the prince, who took all my replies as com plimentary. Near the prince stood his brother, " Ali-nucky Meerza," looking down on the ground, not daring seemingly to look up without permission. Some other young princes were standing about, attired in splendid shawl dresses ; and the courtiers, the " Kaimacan," * with numerous Khans, &c. forming the prince's court, all were waiting in mute obei- * Of the precariousness of the Persian court favour, the late " Kaimacan" was an instance, although one of his wives was of the royal" Kajars." Meerza Abool Cassim may be said to have ruled his late master, Abbas Meerza ; and I heard him spoken of as the greatest enemy to Persia, he having betrayed the prince into the late precipitate war with Russia, by which, as my informant said, " his country had lost honour, territory, and money."

The present Shah adopted him as his prime minister, or rather he found himself within his toils, and difficult to be extricated from them. The minister arrogated to himself so much power, as to be come equally offensive to the Shah and the people. Murmurings, and at length loud complaints, reached the ears of his Majesty, who then determined " to finish him :" he gave orders for him to be strangled. The haughty minister was for a long time incredulous of his Majesty's commands ; but he who had before played the monarch was now the victim of despotism, and he was THE KHELAAT U PCSHAN. 7 sance, to be perfumed with the liberality of their master's favour. Prayers now began, so being dismissed from my audience, I ran off to see the interior of the belvi dere, and had just reached the top of the stairs, when the gun fired, to announce that " the prince was coming."

Down we bustled in most amusing confusion, and I hastened to run across the narrow bridge, which two persons can scarcely pass, when I met the prince in full majesty. I had just time to make my "salaam" as he passed me, and to notice his dress of honour, which was composed of white satin, richly studded with gold ornaments It was short, hanging down only to the knee, with half sleeves; around the neck was a tippet of glossy fur, and on his head he wore a scarlet turban of shawl, raised very high, of the shape and twice the height of the crown of a hat, and without ornaments. I understand that the use of jewels is limited to the sovereign. The bagpipe band struck up as the prince walked out of the belvedere to wards the royal tent. strangled at Tehran in 1835. That he deserved his death there seems to be no doubt, since it was a matter of congratulation with all the people ; their rejoicings were likened to those of the " Ede y nu Rooz."

What a noble looking being was Abbas Meerza — his dignified, yet perfectly easy deportment, and his soul-speaking countenance, beaming with affability and greatness. Really, I never saw so splendid a human form, moulded seemingly as a rich speci men of nature's works. His royal highness walked right royally to the tent prepared for him on this beautiful lawn, with so much majesty and dignity as to impress all beholders by his imposing appearance, as he took his place on .the carpet in the oriental style. The novelty and splendour of the scene I shall never forget, when his many attendants and officers of the court, all with red turbans and superb dresses, came forward to offer their congratulations. There was seated around the prince, at a respectful distance, the " shah zadehs," or young princes, already alluded to.

They were placed in exact position according to their birth ; for there is perhaps no country in the world where etiquette is more strictly attended to than in Persia. The princes were fine looking youths, and apparently worthy scions of the illustrious " Kajar" family. It was an interesting sight to see them sitting in the most rigid posture of respect, not seemingly daring to look up without their father's per mission. The first ceremony was the advance of the courtiers, led up by degrees with slow and solemn step by the master of the ceremonies, two or three at a time, from the lower part of the green platform on which the troops were stationed ; resting every twenty paces, to make their obeisance almost to the ground to their royal master, whom they dare not approach nearer than about ten yards.

It appeared to me that the master of the ceremonies instructed them when to bow appropriately ; at any rate, he set them the example. It was altogether a regular oriental scene, and gave me the best possible idea of court manners in this country. The poet Iaureat was then led up, reading at a most respectful distance a congratulatory ode on the prince, and the honours of the day. It is his office " to make the nightingale of the pen to flut ter about the new-blown rose of royalty;." but the high flown style of the complimentary, which is so copious in the Persian language, I will not attempt to convey, since his voice failed him as he gradually approached nearer, bowing to B-3 THE KHELAAT U PUSHAN. the prince ; for it so happened that the laureat was a very stout man, and his steaming exer tion under a mid-day sun, caused his compliments often to die away on his lips, and become almost inaudible.

The laureat was a man of parts, and, as the Persians say, would require " rivers of ink to run through meadows of paper to create an easy navi gation for his thoughts." What they were on this occasion I could not find out, for but few of them reached me. This poetic effusion lasted some twenty minutes. Then other courtiers approached, amongst whom I noticed the " Kaimacan," or grand vizier, himself a very respectable poet. All these were spouting orations, not one word of which could I understand. Some military display then took place ; the troops fired, and the prince returned to the bel videre. The whole ceremony lasted about an hour and a half. The dresses of the Khans are very rich : they wear the scarlet turban instead of the black lambskin cap. The Persian cos tume is particularly handsome.

A Cachemere robe trimmed with silver was the prince's ordinary dress. We were now scrambling for a retreat through the broken ranks of pedestrians and equestrians of all sorts. Amongst the latter was the " Nokareh kaneh," or the royal band, on camel-back. The Persians have no ear whatever for harmony; — the greater the noise, the better they are pleased. The band, with their dulcimers, cornets, and wind in struments of all sorts, began to discourse most dis cordant sounds; the camels became frightened, and off they ran, scattering the throng, and up setting the musicians, to the infinite amusement of the bystanders. I happened to be in the midst of the melee just as they were about to give some imposing effect by the flourish of trumpets, &c. The animals would stand it no longer ; they seemed to have better ears for music than their masters ; and, in their impatience to be gone, they nearly trod down some of the wondering crowd.

I never witnessed a scene more irresistibly laughable. The guns were fired from the backs of camels. These are termed " zambrooks," or camel swivels ; and there is one advantage in this sort of moving battery, that the patient animal kneels to accom modate the gunner to his aim. THE KHELAAT U PUSHAN. The custom of conferring dresses of honour in the East is of very ancient usage ; and at the present time the richness of the "khelaat" indicates the favour of the sovereign. The ordinary dress consists of a "kaba," or long loose robe, sometimes with a shawl or girdle. We read of the magnificent "khelaat" presented by Cyrus to Syennedis, which, beside the dress, con sisted of "a horse, with a golden bridle and a golden chain." It is stated, that on some such occasions, it was customary for the road to be strewed with roses, and watered, and glass vases filled with sugar were broken under the horses' feet.

The treading upon sugar they deem an in dication of prosperity, and the scattering of flowers was performed in honour of Alexander on his entry into Babylon. Such, however, is Persian duplicity, and for merly practised by majesty, that a "khelaat" was sent to adorn a victim intended for spoliation or death. When clothed in the royal robe as " the man whom the king delighteth to honour," the assassin plunged the dagger of the royal ire or vengeance into his bosom. This belongs more to by-gone history, THE KHELAAT U PUSHAN. The Serbozs * were formed into line, preparatory to the prince's return. I fell in with the train, and to see him on horseback was certainly a magnificent sight ; so graceful was the simultaneous movement of both prince and horse, that he appeared to me to be of a perfectly distinct race from the general population.

The road was now crowded with the wondering auditory, and I being the only "Ferengee" amongst them, came in for my share of the public gaze. As they waited respectfully the prince's coming back, there were no noisy ebullitions, as in a British crowd; they rather crouched from the royal eye than greeted it. The sight was both pleasing and novel to me, since I had never seen so much of the " Azerbijanees" before.* I think that at least thirty thousand of them must have lined the roads ; and on the walls, the roofs, and every place where ingenuity could plant a head, there was to be seen the black cap. The beautiful ruins of the mosque " Sultan Kazan" had one entire covering of human beings. Great numbers of women, also, were peep ing through their " chadres," but not a single nose * " Serboz," in Persian, means one who stakes or plays away his bead— no bad designation for a soldier. was I permitted to see.

Our bard's pithy descrip tion of a staring crowd comprises all that I would say, and with this I will close my day at the " Khelaat u Pushan :" — " Clambering the walls to see him, stalls, and bulks, Are smothered up, leads filled, and ridges horsed With variable complexions, all agreeing In earnestness to see him."

Chapter II. The

"TAUJ U DOULUT." It was in the month of August that I was wend ing my way through the narrow streets of Tehran, to obtain a fresher respiration outside the walls than I could find within them, when my course was suddenly arrested by a troop of " Faroshs," * with their long sticks, clearing the road, and their menacing shouts frightening every poor wight that stood before them, who ran away into the passages, and took refuge from the fury of the " courouk," or royal proclamation, which ordains, that when * These " faroshs" are menial servants, pitching tents, sweep ing carpets, &c. From the latter employ, they derive their name. They are generally numerous in all great men's establishments, and are the executors of his will, and of his orders for the bastinado, &c. any of the Shahs harem leave the palace, no man shall appear in the streets, on pain of death, and woe be to him that does not in some way avoid the hurricane of the eunuchs' * wrath.