Oriental Memoirs ... By J. Forbes ... Second edition, revised by his daughter, the Countess de Montalembert

Introduction

. The Correspondence from which these Memoirs are compiled, may perhaps strike the reader as being of a date not very recent : however, we must recollect that the Indian does not change : that his manners, customs, institutions, and religion are the same as in the time of Alexander, is proved from the following passage taken from this work : — " Megasthenes, wdio was sent ambassador by Seleucus to Sadracottos, King of Practi, whose dominion now forms the fertile provinces of Bengal, Baher, and Oude, wrote an account of his embassy, which Arrian has preserved in his History of India ; and that narrative, written two thousand years ago, when com pared with the modern history of the Hindoos, con vinces us how little change they had undergone during that long period ; nor have the conquests and cruelties of their Mahomedan invaders, nor their commercial intercourse writh the Europeans settled among them, been able to alter the long established manners and customs so deeply interwoven in their religious tenets." a

INTRODUCTION.

. It will be observed, that one of the principal objects of the author throughout these Memoirs, is to explain and reconcile from the existing manners and customs of the East, many passages of Scripture which may appear obscure or unintelligible to the European who has never visited those countries, and of which the modern sophist avails himself as an excuse for re jecting the authenticity of the sublime and consolatory truths contained in the Sacred Volumes. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR. James Forbes, Esq., Member of the Royal and Antiquarian Societies, and of the Arcadian at Rome, lineally descended from the Earls of Granard, was born in London] on the 1 9th of May, 1749. Educated at Hadley, by the Rev. David Garrow, of whom he makes grateful and honourable mention in these Memoirs, he became, under his auspices, an excellent classic scholar, well skilled in ancient and modern history, and possessed of much general information.

Before the age of sixteen he obtained the appoint ment of writer to Bombay. With much talent for drawing, and a great desire to explore foreign climes, he travelled during a period of nearly twenty years through different parts of Asia, Africa, and America, studying the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and delineating the natural productions of those coun tries, which, with the accompanying manuscripts, fill one hundred and fifty folio volumes, containing fifty two thousand pages. His residence of four years ex clusively among the Brahmins in Hindostan, gave him the opportunity of forming an intimate acquaintance with the opinions of this singular people. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH VI After having filled several important situations in different parts of India, with equal honour, talent, and integrity, Mr. Forbes returned to England in 1784, at the early age of five-and-thirty : before a longer re sidence in that enervating climate had destroyed a sound constitution, weakened the powers of an ardent imagination and highly cultivated mind, or deadened the enthusiasm and benevolent emotions of strong feeling He purchased an estate in the neighbour hood of London, and in 1787 married Rosee, daughter of Joseph Gaylard, Esq., by whom he had one daughter, married to the Count de Montalembert, Peer of France.

In the bosom of his family, and a numerous circle of friends by whom he was beloved and respected, Mr. Forbes devoted his leisure hours to literary pursuits. His piety was most ardent, his charity unbounded, his philanthropy universal. The susceptibility of feeling which so particularly characterized him, never pro duced the slightest alteration in the kindness and gentleness of his disposition, or on the warm sympathies of his nature in his domestic and social relations. On the contrary, although severe to himself in the discharge of every religious and moral duty, he was ever indulgent to the faults of others, and willing to admit of their extenuation. He had more of that Christian charity recommended by St. Peter, which suffereth long and is kind, and thinketh no evil, and of Sterne's milk of human kindness, than is generally the allotted portion of mankind ; in proof of which may be adduced the tes- OF THE AUTHOR.

VII timony of the proud Brahmin, the superstitious Hindoo, and the outcast Chandala, contained in a letter ad dressed to him by the inhabitants of Dhuboy on leaving the government of that city.* And not only the Indian during the twenty years he passed in Asia, but the European during his after residence in various parts of England and the Continent, experienced the effects of his unostentatious beneficence, especially those who cannot dig, and to beg are ashamed. The fatherless and the widow were the peculiar objects of his tender solicitude : indeed all the unhappy : for his heart was ever open to soothe the sorrows of suffering humanity, as his purse to relieve its wants. I trust I shall be excused for dwelling on the portrait of an honoured, and revered, and beloved parent : its features are rare as they are beautiful.

In 1796 Mr. Forbes quitted England in company with a learned and intimate friend, and travelled through Italy, Switzerland, and Germany: but being at that period unable to enter France, he with his wife and daughter, during the short peace of 1803, embarked for Holland, whence without being aware of the commencement of hostilities between England and France, he proceeded to Paris, and arrived in that capital the day after the unjust and shameful order had been issued, which constituted all English travellers and residents in the French dominions prisoners * See p. 345, vol. II. of this work. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR. of war. He shared the fate of his unfortunate countrymen, was sent to Verdun, and remained there until, at the solicitation of M. Carnot, President of the Na tional Institute at Paris, and of Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society, he obtained his liberty, and returned to England in June 1804.

Mr. Forbes first appeared as an author by the pub lication of " Letters in France, written in 1803 and 1804, containing a particular description of the English at Verdun," two vols. 8vo. He afterwards published " Reflections on the Character of the Hindoos, and on the Importance of converting them to Christianity," in 8vo. 1810. His most important work is the Oriental Memoirs now offered to the public. In 1816 he accompanied his family to Paris, where he remained two years. He again quitted England in June 1819, when he was seized with the fatal ill ness which terminated his exemplary life : a life which had been but a preparation for eternity. He died at Aix la Chapelle, in the arms of his daughter and her children, in August 1819, at the age of seventy. THE AUTHOR'S

Preface

. These Memoirs are founded on a series of letters, written during a long residence in India. A variety of new and interesting matter, collected from valuable and accurate resources, has induced me to alter their original form, and present them to the world in the shape of a connected narrative. I consider this ex planation necessary to account for the epistolary style, occasional repetitions, and want of connexion, which will be found to pervade them. Leaving England before I had attained my six teenth year, and being while in India deprived of a choice of books, I lay no claim to literary merit. I am conscious of numerous defects in a work com menced at that early age, and continued for eighteen years in the India Company's service, when duty stationed me at many of their settlements, and curiosity led me to other places in the western provinces of Hindostan.

The manuscripts from which these volumes are compiled, and the drawings which illustrate them, have formed the principal recreation of my life. The pursuit beguiled the monotony of our India voyages, cheered a solitary residence at Anjengo and Dhuboy,

PREFACE.

. X and softened the long period of absence from my na tive country : it has since mitigated the rigor of cap tivity, and alleviated domestic sorrow. Drawing to me had the same charm as music to the soul of har mony. In my secluded situation in Guzerat I seemed to be blest with another sense. My friends in India were happy to enlarge my collection ; the sportsman suspended his career after royal game to procure me a curiosity ; the Hindoo often brought a bird or an insect for delineation, knowing it would then regain its liberty ; and the Brahmin supplied specimens of fruit and flowers from his sacred enclosures. Diffident as I am of this performance, I deem my self, in some degree, pledged to publish it, in conse quence of this pledge being the immediate cause of procuring the liberation of myself and family from captivity.

I also assign as another reason, that some of my letters at full length, and extracts from others, have appeared in several late publications, without being ascribed to their real author. CONTENTS or THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

The Author embarks as Writer for Bombay — Cape de Verd Islands — Sails for the Cape of Good Hope — Coast of Brazil — Arrival at Rio de Janeiro — Humming Birds described — City of St. Sebastian — Departure from South America — Tristan de Cunha — Table Land — Storms off the Cape of Good Hope — Dying Dolphin — Ship on Fire — Sea-scurvy — Funeral Ceremony at Sea — Monotony and Distress in long Calms — Malabar Coast — Settlement of Cochin — Calicut — Tellicherry — Mangalore — Goa Harbour and City — Arrival at Bombay ........ Page 1

Chapter II

Residence at Bombay — Brief State of that Settlement in 1 766 — Cocoa-nut Tree — Palmyra — Date and Banian Tree — Gymnosophists — Cubbeer — Burr — Anecdote of Monkeys — Areca — BeteJ, Mango, and other Fruits of Hindostan — Flowers — Vegetables — Rice grounds — Rainy Season — Dreadful Famines in India . 1 1

Chapter III

Mus-malabaricus — Musk-rat — Ants — Termites — Lizards — Guana Serpents — Cobra Minelle — Cobra de Capello — Dancing Snakes — Fatal effect of the poison of the Hooded Snake — Dr. Russell on the Indian Serpents — Insects of India— Locusts — Wild Honey — CONTENTS. XII Ghee— Birds of Hindostan— The Myneh— Baya, or bottle-nested Sparrow— Tailor-bird— Bulbul, or Indian Nightingale— Persian Ode— Fish at Bombay 26

Chapter IV

Inhabitants of Bombay— Origin of the Hindoos — The Brahmins — The Hindoo Religion — Extracts from the Vedas — Menu's Code of Laws — Brama, or the Supreme Deity — Devotion of the Hindoos — Fakeers, or Yogees — Religious Devotee — Life of the Brahmins — Chandalahs, or Pariars— Dress of the Hindoo Tribes — Hindoo Women — Education — Early Marriages — Burning the Dead — Astrology and Augury — Rebekah at the Well— The Palankeen — Dancing-girls — Ablutions — Hummums — Effects of Opium — Halcarras .......... 38

Chapter V

Mahomedan Conquests in Hindostan — Establishment of the Empire of Ghizni — Invasion of India by Timur-lung — Mogul Empire formed — Character of Akber — Usurpation of the Navvabs, after the death of Aurungzebe — Religion of Mahomed — Mahomedan Women — Genii, Talismans, and Charms — Loss of a precious Gem — Fire flies — Great Extent of the Mahomedan Religion — Ishinaelites — Solomon's Trade with India — Traffic of the Ancients — Extensive Commerce of the Arabians — General Character of the Mahomedans in Hindostan ....... 65

Chapter VI

Parsees, or Guebres — Everlasting Fire near Baku, in Persia — Religion of Zoroaster and the ancient Magi — Manners aud Customs of the Parsees ......... 78

Chapter VII

Portuguese and theii Descendants in India — Romish Missionaries — Indian Converts — General Remarks on the Moral and Religious CONTENTS. XIII System of the Hindoos — The Deluge confirmed by the Hindoo Scriptures — Comparison between the Egyptians and Hindoos — Further Illustration of the Hindoo Religion ; compared with the Mosaical Dispensation — Iran in its ancient state — Quotation from Bishop Watson 84

Chapter VIII

Town of Bombay — English Commerce at Bombay — Civil and Military Establishments — Courts of Justice — Domestic Arrangement —Moonlight Evenings ....... 94

Chapter IX

English Settlement of Fort Victoria — Brahmin Village of Harrasar — Hot Wells at Dazagon — Voyage thither from Fort Victoria — Hot Winds — Wild Beasts — Danger from Tigers — Chamelion of the Concan — Serpents — Excavations in the Mountains — Hindoo Devotees, Swingers, Jugglers, Combatants, and Vaulters — Marre — Mahratta Government — Commencement of a Journey to Bombay — Candhar — Vanjarrahs — Gaut Mountains — Monsoons — Cultivation, Gardens, and Produce of the Concan — Guru, Hindoo High-priest — Other Religious Castes — Value of Water in India — Ascent of the Lower Gauts — Mahomedan Patriarch at Ram-Rajah — Hindoo Victims — Reception at Allah Braug — Colabie — Visit from a Mahratta Prince — Family of Ragojee Angria — Nymphea Lotos — Lotophagi — Method of supplying Travellers with Provisions in Hindostan — Conclusion of the Journey — Comparison between India and England in their most striking features . . 103

Chapter X

Voyage from Bombay to Surat — Surat Bar — Ancient Trade of India with Europe — Diamond Mines and Jewels of India — City of Surat — Gardens — Mode of Watering — Haram — Mogul Women — Hummums, Champooing — Banian Hospital — Manufactures — Trade of Surat with Europe — Visit of the English Chief to the Nabob — CONTENTS. XIV Nabob's Public Procession to the Mosque — Dress of the Mogul Ladies — Anecdote of a Mogul Widow and an English Gentleman — Country — Cultivation — Game — Birds — Wild Beasts — A Cheeta Hunt fully described — Pulparar — Hindoo Devotees — Burning of Widows — Similar practice among the Ancient Crestonians — Affecting account of the Immolation of a Hindoo Widow — Minute Division of the Hindoo Castes — Ablutions of the Hindoos — Travels of Hindoo Devotees — Death of Calanus — Burning of an Indian Woman in the army of Eumenes 145

Chapter XI

Voyage from Bombay to Anjengo — Geographical Division of the Malabar Coast — Goa — Monkish Convents — Commerce — Portuguese Domination — Carwar — Mirzee and Barcelore, the ancient Musiris and Barace — Fortified Island — Onore — Malabar Frontier — Mangulore — -Gigantic Statue at Kurkul — Cannanore — -Tellicherry — Cardamom — Dumapatam Island — Coffee Plantations — Ordeal Trials in Malabar — Mucuars at Tellicherry — Mahie — Sacrifice Rock — Edible Birds'-nests — Calicut — Vapura — Grand Appearance of the Gaut Mountains — Cochin — Mattancherry — Jews-town — Porca> Calliquilone — Quilone — Eddova — Anjengo — Catamaran — Hippocampus . . . . . . . . .185

Chapter XII

Travencore — Cultivation of Pepper — Cassia Lignea, and Cinnamon — Oil Plants— Olive Tree— Silk Cotton— Wild Animals— Civet Cat ; Crocodile and Alligator — Ichneumon — Seal — Birds — Crescent Snake — Black Amphisbœna — Number of Noxious Reptiles — Termites, or White Ants — Gold Dust in Malabar Rivers — Iron Mines, Forges, and Smelting-houses — Salt-pans — Molungies or Salt-boilers of Bengal . . . . . . .218

Chapter XIII

Brahmins of Malabar — Sacred Rivers of India — Veneration for the Cow — Public Charities — Similarity of the Malabars and Northern CONTENTS. XV Hindoos — Extraordinary Purification of the King of passing through a Golden Cow — The same Ceremony by Ragonath Row — Sevajee weighed against Gold — Adventure in Quilone Forest — Civilization of the Malabars — Physical Effects of the Torrid Zone — Conduct of a Marawar Heroine — Dominions of the King of Travencore — Nairs — Manners and Customs — Namburis — Tivees — Tetees — Moplah Women — Cruelty of the Queen of At tinga — Writing on Olas — Malabar Christians — Cheap purchase of Children — Houses of the Malabars — Implements of Agriculture — Tribe of Pooleahs — Pariars — Hindoos and Egyptians — Tribe8 mentioned by Herodotus ; their Manners and Customs illustrated by those of the Malabars — Paramhansa — Hindoo Anthropophagi — Moplahs, Mahomedan Malabars — Massacre of the English at Attinga — Interesting Particulars of the St. Thome, or Syrian Christians ......... 236

Chapter XIV

Excavations at Salsette and Elephanta — Journey from Bombay to Salsette — Description of the great Temple there — Depredations of the Tigers — Island of Elephanta — Excavations — Grand Temple — Hymn to Narayena — Caverns and Temples at Ellora — Wars of the Kooroos and Pandoos from the Hindoo Legends — Cemetery in the Desert of Sinai 265

Chapter XV

The Author obtains an Appointment among the Civil Servants attached to the British Detachment ordered from Bombay, to assist Ragonath-Row, Peshaw of the Mahrattas, then driven from his Capital, and at the head of an Army in Guzerat — Mahratta Empire — Ragobah leaves Poonah, and marches against the Nizam — Commencement of the Civil War — Ragobah applies to the Bombay Government for a Detachment of British Troops, and enters into a Treaty — Embarkation of the English Detachment to join his Army in Guzerat ...... CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter XVI

Arrival of the English Troops at Surat— Interview with the Nabob of Surat — Ragobah's Zenana — Voyage from Surat to Cambay — Gongwa — Gosaings, their peculiar Character — Tides in the Gulf of Cambay — Public Visit of the Nabob to Ragobah — Ragobah removes from the City to a Summer Palace — Public Visit of the British Commander and his Staff — Ceremony of making presents in the East — English Detachment encamp at Narranseer, near Cambay — City of Cambay — Monkeys — Manufacture — Plants — Fertility of the Country — Wells — Cornelians, Agates, and Cambay Stones — Character of the Nabob, contrasted with that of Ragobah — Narrow Policy and Cruelty of Oriental Courts — Etiquette and Ceremonies — General Effects of Opium — Diversions of the Nabob and Nobles at Cambay — Literature — Pleasant Situation of the English Head-quarters at Narranseer — Wild Beasts and Reptiles — Nabob's Gardens — Heat in the English Camp — Roses and Rose Water — News of Ragobah's Army marching towards Cambay — The English Encampment at Narranseer struck ; the Detachment proceed to Darah 308

Chapter XVII

Account of a Mahratta Army— Arms — Titles — Magnificence of the Indian Tents — Military Character of the Indians — Rajepoots — Different Orders of Cavalry — Pindarees — Brahmins — Ragobah's Encampment — Particulars of a Brahmin Feast — Pleasures and Amusements in Camp — Conduct of a Family on a march — Dancing-girls— Number of Cattle — Extraordinary Anecdote of Ragobah's Elephants— Camels— Mahratta Wealth and State— Hermaphrodites— Improvement in Mahratta Tactics — Method of besieging a City — War Rockets _ 337

Chapter XVIII

March of the Allied Army towards the Enemy— Blessings of Water —First Engagement— Retreat of the Enemy— Field of Battle— CONTENTS. XVII Action at Mahter — Treatment of Spies — Patience of the Hindoos — Kairah — Guzerat Villages — Action at Hyderabad — March to the South Parts of Guzerat — History of the Guickwar Family — Neriad laid under contribution — Bhauts — A dreadful Sacrifice — Conduct of the Brahmins — March to the Plains of Arras — Omens — Superstition of the Brahmins and Astrologers — Battle on the Plains of Arras — Defeat of the Enemy — Encamp at Betassee — The Allied Army cross the Myhi — Pass of FazalPoor — March to Baroche — Robbers . . ..... 361

Chapter XIX

Encampment at Baroche — Description of that City — The Nerbudah — Discontent in Ragobah's Army — March from Baroche towards Dhuboy — Pass of Bowa-peer — Sudden setting in of the Monsoon — Rise of the Water — Serpents, Scorpions, and Reptiles in the Village Huts — Winter Quarters in Dhuboy — Description of that City — Adjutant Bird — Encampment of Ragobah's Army at Bellapoor — Journey to Bellapoor — Rise of the Dahder — Females in Ragobah's Zenana — An Intrigue with Esswant Row — Inconveniences of a Camp in the Rainy Season — Duplicity and Chicanery of the Indians — Cruelty of Brahmins — Division of Castes — Mahratta Character — Story of some Palanquin-bearers — Mangos — Mahratta Tents — Illness of the Writer — Conclusion of the War — Subsequent Fate of Ragobah 391

Chapter XX

Departure from Bombay to England — Cape Bassos and the Coast of Africa — Mermaids at Mosambique and Mombaz — Melinda — Cape St. Sebastian — Storms near the Cape of Good Hope — Whales — Bay False — Isthmus between Table Bay and Bay False — Dutch Settlement at Simmons' Harbour —Journey from thence to Cape-town — Table Mountain — Cape-town — Fruits, Flowers, Trees — Menagerie — Inhabitants of Cape-town — Scarcity of Timber — Beauty and variety of the Plants — Character of the Dutch Farmers — Vineyards — Dutch Government of the Colony — Character of the Hottentots — Boshmen — AVild Animals at the Cape — Birds in Southern Africa — African Lions — Villas, Gardens, and vol i. b CONTENTS. Farms near Cape-town —Tent Wine— Flowers and Vegetables- Myrtle Hedges— Constantia and its Vineyards — Grand Mountain Scenery near the Cape— Voyage from thence to St. Helena— St Helena Pigeons— Fortifications— Town— Beauty of the Interior Vallies— Climate— Inhabitants— Government — Provisions, Fruits and Vegetables— Birds — Trees and Plants, Indigenous and Exotic Fish— Sail for England— Coast of Guinea — Crew— Variety of Fish on the Gold Coast— Cape de Verd Islands— Fogo— Azores- Sudden Tempest — St. Mary's Island— Arrival at Cork— Departure from Ireland— Land at Hastings — Arrival at Home . .419

Chapter XXI

The Author's Return to India — Journey from Surat to Baroche — — Senassees — Wells — Illustrations of Scripture — General Character of the Indians — Trade of the Ancients with Barygaza, or Baroche — Modern Cotton Trade at Baroche — Revenues of Baroche — Pergunna — Animals — Birds — Fruits — Oriental Wines, Sherbets, Ice — Oils and Perfumes — Tribe of Borahs — Mahomedan Fakeers — Penances of Indian Devotees — Hindoo Colleges — Jattaras — Succulterah — Expiation of Suela-Tirtha — Mahomedan Festivals — Death of Houssain — English Villa near Baroche — Serpents, Guardians of Indian Gardens — Ordeal Trials by Water and Rice — Singular Anecdote of a Robbery — Provisions at Baroche- — Lower Classes of Society — Court of Adowlet at Baroche — Silver Mosque — Mausoleum of Baba-Rahan — Comparison between Modern Hindoos and Mahomedans — Rajpoots — Singular Exile of a Hindoo Family at Bombay — Anecdotes from Lord Teignmouth . . 460

Chapter XXII

Excursion of a Shooting Party in Turcaseer — Wild Beasts — Monkeys — Bheels — Serpents — Locusts — Feathered Game of Guzerat — Anecdote of a Sahras — Baubul, or Acacia — Curious Instinct and Sagacity in the Baubul Caterpillar — Further Description of the Baya, or Bottle-nested Sparrow — Instinct of various Animals Raje-pipley Hills — Tiger Mountain — Number of wild Animals in those unfrequented Regions — Various Habits of Tigers — Of Hyenas and other Beasts of Prey — Rhinoceros — Wild Hogs Bears — Anecdote of their dreadful Brutality . . . CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter XXIII

Appointment to Dhuboy — Revenue of the Purgunna — General Division of Hindostan — City of Dhuboy — Inhabitants — Sacred Groves — Chandode — Zinore — Ranghur — Bhaderpoor — Monkeys— Curious Anecdote of their Agency — Powaghur — Source of the Nerbudda — Story of Narmada from the Hindoo Mythology — Uncharitableness of the Brahmins — Low Estate of the Chandala Caste — Cruelty of the Jaina Brahmins — Singular Anecdotes of Religious Hindoos — Comparison between the Porticos at Dhuboy and Pompeia — Expense of the Dhuboy Fortifications — Gate of Diamonds — Lines on a celebrated Picture by Guercino — Serpents at Dhuboy — Guardians to Nero — Story of the Origin and Magnificence of Dhuboy— Its Destruction by the Mahomedans, and subsequent History — Custom of giving a new name to Oriental Cities — Dhuboy surrounded by the Mahratta Army J. B. NICHOLS AND SON, 25, PARLIAMENT STREF.T. ORIENTAL MEMOIRS.

Chapter I

The Author embarks as a Writer for Bombay — Cape de Verd Islands — Sails for the Cape of Good Hope — Coast of Brazil — Arrival at Rio de Janeiro — Humming-birds described — City of St. Sebastian — Departure from South America — Tristan de Cunha — Table Land — Storms off the Cape of Good Hope — Dying Dolphin — Ship on Fire — Sea-scurvy — Funeral Ceremony at Sea — Monotony and Distress in long Calms — Malabar Coast — Settlement at Cochin — Calicut — Tellicherry — Mangalore — Goa Harbour, and City — Arrival at Bombay. Having obtained the appointment of a writer in the East India Company's service at Bombay I embarked with fourteen other passengers for that settlement, in the month of March 1765, before I had attained my sixteenth year; and at that early age I commenced my descriptive letters, and the drawings which accompany them.

After encountering the boisterous seas in the Bay of Biscay, we entered the warmer latitudes ; and had a distant view of the islands of Madeira, Palma, and Ferro : we next saw the peak of Teneriffe, rearing its majestic head above the clouds, and presenting a grand and magnificent scene. From thence we steered for St. Jago, the largest of the Cape de Verd islands, for VOL. I. B ST. JAGO. a supply of water and refreshments ; and, passing by the Isles of Bona-vista, Sal, and Mayo, whose barren and rocky shores are seldom visited by strangers, we arrived at Porto Praya the middle of May: this is the principal sea-port of St. Jago ; the city where the governor and bishop reside is situated at some distance inland ; but there is so little attraction in the manners of the Portugueze, and so great a scarcity of horses, that the passengers do not often go there.

The fortress and principal houses at Porto Praya are on a rocky eminence near the watering place ; but below it is a beautiful valley, which we daily visited. Our youthful party were charmed with its novelty, and regaled on the plantains, cocoa-nuts, and pine apples, with which it abounded. The lofty cocoa tree, and waving plantain, were enlivened by mon keys, and a variety of birds ; but the weather being extremely hot, and the hills barren, we seldom strolled beyond the limits of the valley. We remained about a week at St. Jago, and then sailed for the Cape of Good Hope ; but on discovering a dangerous leak in the ship, we were obliged to alter our course, and to proceed immediately to Rio de Janeiro, a Portugueze settlement on the coast of Brazil, where we continued from the end of June until the middle of October ; while the vessel under went the necessary repairs.

If I was pleased with St. Jago, I had much greater reason to be delighted with the Brazils : the grandeur of the mountains, the fertility of the valleys, the mild ness of the climate, and the general beauty of animal and vegetable nature, render this part of South Ame rica very interesting; while the variety of trees and TROPICAL BIRDS. 3 plants, the profusion of fruits and flowers, and the brilliancy of the birds and insects, afforded an ample scope for my earliest attempts in natural history. One lovely valley, over which the aqueduct passes which supplies the city of St. Sebastian with water, was my favourite place of resort ; there the rose and myrtle mingled their fragrance with the clustering blossoms of the citron and orange trees, bending at the same time under the weight of their golden produce.

" For here great Spring Greens all the year, and fruits and blossoms blush, In social sweetness, on the self-same bough." Milton. Thousands of nature's choristers, arrayed in all the brilliancy of tropical plumage, enlivened these extensive orange groves ; and the humming-bird, the smallest and most lovely of the feathered race, buzzed like the bee, while sipping the nectarious dew from the blossoms and flowers. Nothing can exceed the delicacy of these little beauties ; especially of that which from its minuteness is called the fly-bird ; its bill and legs are not thicker than a pin ; its head, tufted with glossy jet, varies with every motion into shades of green and purple ; the breast is of a bright flame colour ; every feather, when viewed through a microscope, appears as if fringed with silver, and spotted with gold.

The serpents in this part of South America are large and noxious, but often beautifully coloured ; the town and country are infested with lizards, scorpions, centipedes, and troublesome insects of various b RIO DE JANEIRO. kinds. The wild animals generally keep upon the mountains, and leave the valleys to the cows, sheep, and goats, which were introduced into these colonies by the Portugueze. St. Sebastian, the capital of Rio de Janeiro, is a large city, with numerous churches, convents, and nunneries ; but the manners and customs of the inha bitants are neither pleasing nor interesting : pride, poverty, indolence, and superstition, are the prevailing characteristics of these degenerate Portugueze ; and seem to have entirely extinguished the noble virtues of their ancestors : their cruelty to the plantation negroes, and slaves of every description, is excessive : humanity shudders at the constant smack of the whip, and the loud cries for mercy, vainly implored by these poor wretches, from their tyrannic masters, who seem to have lost every sense of that divine attribute.