Travels in the Coastlands of British East Africa and the Islands of Zanzibar and Pemba: their agricultural resources and general characteristics ... With maps, illustrations, etc

Front matter

TRAVELS IN THE COASTLANDS OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA AND THE ISLANDS OF ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA [Frontispiece. TRAVELS IN THE COASTLANDS OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA AND THE ISLANDS OF ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA THEIR AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES AND GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS BY WILLIAM WALTER AUGUSTINE FITZGERALD KELLOW ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, gELLOW ROYAL COLONIAL INSTITUTE WITH MAPS, ILLUSTRATIONS, AND APPENDICES LONDON CHAPMAN AND HALL, Ltd. Richard Clay & Sons, Limited, London & Eungay. To SIR JOHN KIRK, G.C.M.G GOLD MEDALLIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, 1882, LATE H. M. CONSUL-GENERAL AT ZANZIBAR, BRITISH PLENIPOTENTIARY, INTERNATIONAL SLAVERY CONFERENCE, 1S89, MEMBER OF THE UGANDA RAILWAY COMMITTEE, WHO HAS DONE SO MUCH TO DEVELOP THE COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA BY THE DISCOVERY OF MANY USEFUL PLANTS AND PRODUCTS, AND WHOSE WRITINGS HAVE SUPPLIED MUCH A'ALUABLE INFORMATION FOR THIS WORK, WHICH OWES ITS EXISTENCE TO HIS ENCOURAGEMENT, THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE, AVITH VERY SINCERE REGARD, Inscribed.

Preface

The following pages record the result of my two years' explorations of the British East African coast lands, while specially employed to report on their agricultural capabilities by the Directors of the late Imperial British East Africa Company. Since my return in 1893, I have strongly desired to bring into public notice the great capabilities of this still comparatively unknown portion of our East African Empire. In the anxious search for new markets, caused by the Trade rivalry of the present day, the fact is not sufficiently realized that, along the 400 miles of sea board within our sphere, there exists a wonderfully fertile country only awaiting the advent of English energy, capital, and enterprise for its development, and the exploitation of such products as Rubber, Cotton, Ivory, Copal, Jute, Fibres, Hides, Cereals, Oil-seeds, Copra, etc., while the forests contain many valuable woods. The climate varies from tropical on the Coast lands to bracing, frosty, and cold on the high inland plateaux.

PREFACE.

X I have entered very fully into the matter of soils and commercial products, hoping this book will prove of real use for reference to future settlers, whilst still affordingsome matter of interest to the o-eneral reader. England owes a debt of gratitude to the Imperial British East Africa Company, to whose pioneer work and efforts we owe the possession not only of this fertile countrv, but of Uganda itself, and whose advent brought "Light and Liberty" to the native and the slave. The portion dealing with Zanzibar and Pemba is an enlargement of my report ' On the Spice and other Cultivation of Zanzibar and Pemba Islands,' Foreign Office Miscellaneous Scries, No. 266, 1892. My acknowledgments and thanks are due to H. M. Under Secretary of State for India, for kind permission to republish Mr. Robert Cross's ' Reports on the American Rubber Trees,' a permission rendered doubly valuable by the fact that they are now out of print.

To the Controller of H. M. Stationery Office, and Mr. Thistleton Dyer, Director, Royal Gardens, Kew, for allowing the use of notes and extracts from the various Kezv Bulletins, the number dealing with 'Bowstring Hemp' being also out of print. To Sir Arnold Kemball, K. C.S.I., K.C.B., the Chairman, and other Directors of the late Imperial British East Africa Company, for placing at my disposal many valuable documents and reports. preface XI To Mr. P. L. McDermott, late Secretary of the same, for his help and assistance. To Mr. Ernest G. Ravenstein, F. R.M.S., Chairman of the British Association Committee on the Climat ology of Africa, for the valuable meteorological and climatological returns courteously placed at my dis posal. To the Rev. W. E. Taylor, C.M.S., Mombasa; Mr. John Christie, of Messrs. Ide and Christie ; the editor of The Times, and others, for kind permission to use extracts.

To Mr. E. Heawood, M.A., of the staff of the R.G.S., for his kind aid in revising this work for the press. My thanks are also due to Mr. E. A. Reeves, Assistant Map Curator, R.G.S., for his careful and excellent preparation of the maps from my bearings, sketches, and notes. W. W. A. FitzGerald. sanitary 1808. Carrigorau, Newmarkct-on- Fergus, Co. Clare. I'AGE CONTENTS Part I.— THE MAINLAND introduction THE COAST-LANDS OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA General Appearance — Vegetation — Rivers and Harbours — Rain-fall — Prevailing Winds — Temperature — Relative Humidity — Population I

Chapter I Arrival In

AFRICA— JOURNEY TO THE MAGARINI SHAMBAS Landing at Mombasa — Scope of my Mission — Departure for Melindi — Interviews with the Liwalis of Melindi and Mombrui — Ground Cultivation, Coco-nuts — Start for Shambas — Sabaki River — Mombrui — First Night in a Slave Village — Native System of Agriculture — Labour Question — Cotton — The Wanika- — Scarcity of Water Supply — The African Slave 12

Chapter II Life At Magarini

Friendliness of the Liwalis — Nasur bin Silliman's Shambas — Charming Country — Commissariat Troubles — Choice of Head-quarters — Silence of the African Night — Shambas under my Supervision — Luxuriant Vegetation — Proposed Improvements — My Native Staff — Engagement of Head-man — M'Doro the Nika Head-man — Native Path to Melindi — The Jorori River — A Ducking — Dum Palms — Native Clearings — Suitability of the Soil for Cotton — Ferry over the Sabaki — A Primitive Bridge — Return to the Shambas 33

Chapter III First Experiences On An East African Shamba

Preliminary Troubles — Incendiarism — A Refractory Native — A " Shauri " — An Encouraging Change — A Valuable Ally — My Wanika Labourers — Agricultural Seasons — Seed-time and Harvest — Various Products — A Large Muster — Daily Routine — Harvesting Bananas — Natives' Dislike of Rain — A Reformed Character — Visits of Inspection — Site for Experimental Nurseries — A Good Start — Proposed Tour up the Sabaki — Preliminary Arrangements — Final Instructions — Personnel of my Party — First Night in Camp CONTENTS XIV

Chapter IV Gongoni, Ras N'gomani, And The Orchella Weed District Ok Marereni

PAGE A Polite Head-man — Cultivation — Rapid Growth of Silk-cotton Tree — Guniah System of Agriculture — A Primitive Telephone — Salt Deposits — A Sandy Waste — Scarcity of Firewood — Ras N'Gomani Fisher-folk — Shark's Flesh as Food — Abundance of Game — Mangrove Timber — Waiting for Canoes — Bad Marksmen — Shallow Back-waters — Casuarina Trees — Flat Grass Plains — Marereni — Orchella Weed — Great Heat — Elephant Tracks — Rich Soil — Back to Mombrui 73

Chapter V Jelori

— THE GIRYAMA TRIBE Arab Hospitality — Shamba Accounts — Proceed to Melindi — Stalking a Turtle — Preparations for Sabaki Expedition — Start for Jelori — Fertile Country — Large Coco-nut Plantations — Mr. Weaver's Road — Sekoki Hill — The Sabaki — Lake Jelori — C. M. S. Station, Mr. and Mrs. Hooper — Exploration of the Lake — Giryama Villages — Sansevieria Fibre — A Hippopotamus Hunt — Village in the Forest — Shauri with the Wa-Giryama — Canoeing after Hippo — The Wa-Giryama and their Country 85

Chapter VI The South Side Of The Sabaki River

Leave for Merikano — Useless Head-men — Difficult Marching — A Land of Swamps — " M'Lengo-Baya" — First Sight of Wa-Galla — The Watoro — Camps in the Forest — Hyphæne Palm Toddy — Watoro Cultivation — Makongeni Stockade — The Runaway-slave Settlements — Reception by the Watoro — Trouble with my Askaris and Wanika — Cowardice of Old Jubah — Exploration up the River — Lost in the Bush — A Proud Cook — " Roughing it " — Back to Makongeni Il6

Chapter VII Makongeni To Takaungu

via FULADOYO— THE GIRYAMA COUNTRY The Journey to the Coast — Vicissitudes of Native Family Life — Slave Traffic amongst the Native Tribes — Thorny Jungles — Mangea Hill — Heat and Thirst — An Old Camp of Lugard's — Collapse ofthe Wanika — The White Man an Object of Curiosity — Masai Raids — Agriculture among the Wa-Giryama — Extensive Forests — Fuladoyo — Town of M'Tanganiko — Wanika Settlers — The Liwali of Takaungu — Indiarubber Vines — Arrive at Takaungu 1 CONTENTS XV 153

Chapter VIII

TAKAUNGU— ROKA — M'SHAKA IN THE INDIARUBBER DISTRICT PAGE Takaungu and its Chief Products — A Drunken Brawl — M'Narani — Kilifi Bay — Cross to M'Tondoa — Wild Cotton — Thick Forest — Roka — Coral Rock — M'Shaka — Among the Rubber Vines — Method and Time of Collecting — The East African Rubber Trade 141

Chapter IX Gum-copal Trees

— AROEOKO TO MELINDI— SEARCHING FOR A SLAVE CARAVAN Gum-copal Trees — Aroboko — A Well-cultivated Valley — Wasania Village — Return to Melindi — Pay off my Men — Untrustworthiness of Ali bin Jumah — Small Troubles — News of a Slave Caravan — Once more on the March — The North Bank of the Sabaki — The Wakamba Tribe — Guarding the Roads — River Fords — A Trackless Wilderness — Arbagundi — Camping under Difficulties — Native Simplicity — The Wa-Galla — Insect Plagues — Crocodile and Hippo Lakes— A Village Fire — Snakes — Back to Jelori . .

Chapter X

A THREATENED RAID — MY EXPEDITION TO NO. 2 STOCKADE A New Commission — Grateful Arab Ladies — Ali bin Jumah — Departure for No. 2 Stockade— The " Siafu*' Ant — An Exciting Report — A Hurried Return — Organize a Reconnoitring Party — Native Allies — A False Alarm — A New Start — Oppressive Heat — Centipedes and Scorpions — Troubles with the Watoro — Our Plans — The North-east Rains — March up the Sabaki — Thick Forest — The Sabaki River — Camp in the Bush — Masai War-paths — Difficult Progress — Characteristics ofthe Country — Game Tracks — Reach the Stockade at last 174

Chapter XI At No

2 STOCKADE ON THE SABAKI RIVER At Wrork on the Stockade — Climate — The Return Journey — The Sabaki in Flood — Weaver's Road — A Flooded Country — Makongeni again — Damp Quarters — Mosquitoes — Back to the Stockade — Lions — Carrying up the Stores — Meet Mr. Foaker — M'Soma and the Arabs — A Memorable Christmas — Tobacco and Castor-oil Plants — Illness of Weaver — Sabaki Flies — Arrival of the Survey Caravan — Unwonted Luxuries — Runaway Porters — A Long March — An Offer to the Watoro — Giryama Customs — The End of my Expedition CONTENTS XVI

Chapter XII Suggestions For The Development Of The Coast-lands And Sabaki District

PAGE Fertility ofthe Country — The Coast-lands — Declining Cultivation — The Labour Question — Tamul Coolies — Ploughs and Draught Animals — Products — Cotton — Coco-nuts — Bananas — Silk-cotton Trees — Mangrove Timber — The Sabaki as a Wrater-way — Irrigation — Timber — Indiarubber : the various species — Nutmegs and Cacao — Castor - oil — Fibre-producing Plants (Sansevierias) — Prices of Fibres — Ramie Grass — Pineapples 204

Chapter XIII Magarini

— JOURNEY TO MOMBASA, via ROKA AND KONJORA Cotton — Acting as Arbiter — The Watoro Register — Start for Mombasa — The Hot Season — Roka — Brackish Soils — Konjora and its Creeks— M'Tanganiko — Kilifi Creek — Experiences on Board a Dhow — Visits to Zanzibar and Pemba 237

Chapter XIV Shamba

LIFE— JOURNEY TO MOMBASA AND BACK An Unpleasant Voyage — Mr. Wreaver becomes my Assistant — The Wet Season — Rain-gauge — Shipment of Copra — Transport Questions — Rats and Snakes — Revisit Jelori — Change in the Attitude of the Watoro — Somali Children — A Hard March — Lions — Watamu — The N'Zovoni River — Meet Bishop Tucker at Frere Town — Mombasa again — Rabai Mission Station — Through the Giryama Country — An Enthusiastic Reception 252 CHAPTER .XV LAKE KRAWA Nubian Labourers — Proposed Visit of Sir Gerald Portal — Start to explore Lake Krawa — Arab Shikaries — My Caravan Astray — A Long Fast — Oil Palms — Lake Krawa and the Kilifi River — Game — Mosquitoes — Reconnoitring the Country — Return to the Shambas — Scarcity of Grain — Disinterested Arabs — Flooded Back-waters — Dead Beat — Sir Gerald Portal's Mission to Uganda — A Shooting Party — A Lion Story — Christmas at Mombasa — A Wretched New Year's Day — Fever — Mango Crop — Mr. Weaver's Work at the Shambas 295

Chapter XVI

JOURNEY^ FROM MOMBRUI TO THE TANA RIVER via GONGONI, MARERENI, AND LAKE KRAWA My Expedition — The Coast-lands north of Mombrui — Scarcity of Water — Dwarf Palms — Marereni — Changes since my last Visit — An Uncultivated Wilderness — Water-holes — Euphorbias — Back-waters — Simba Hill — Possibilities of Cultivation — Galla Path — Lake Krawa — The Tana Valley — Galla Village — Golbanti CONTENTS XVII PAGE 323

Chapter XVII The Tana River And Country

Golbanti Mission Station — The Wa-Pokomo — Lakes of the Tana Valley — Golbanti and surrounding Country — Lake Ashakababo — Native Method of extracting Aloe Fibre — Luxuriant Maize — Flat Country — The Tana — N'Gao — German Mission — Winding Nature of the River — The Country to the South-west — Lake Burabin — Mr. Bird-Thompson on the Tana and its Tribes. . .

Chapter XVIII Golbanti To Witu

Journey down the River — The Belesoni Canal — The Tana Swamps — Kalota River — Kisanga Wells — The Ozi River — Kau — Camping in a Graveyard — Crocodiles — Kirimanda River — " M'To Mombamba" — March to Witu — European Officers at Witu — The Rebel Sultan — Salt Lake — The Cattle Disease — A Loyal Native Gentleman — The Witu Country 339

Chapter XIX The Witu District

— WITU TO KIPINI The Utwani Forest — Disturbed State of the Country — The English Expedition of 1890 — The Tsetse Fly — Start for Shaga — Lake Chakamba — A German Settler's Cotton Plantation 352

Chapter XX Kipini To

LAMU— PATTA ISLAND Kipini — The Ozi River— Camp at U'Kanga — Makombagni — Lake M'Pekatoni — Hindi— Bomani — A Flat Country — Fungu Zombo — Sivatoni — Arura — Wild Cotton — M'Kumbi — Return to the Coast — M'Kanumbi — March to Makowe — Lamu Island — Arrive at Patta Island — The Bajoni — Coir Fibre — The Wa-Siyu, Patta — Difficulty in getting away — Grasping Natives .... 366

Chapter XXI From Patta Island To Lamu And Mombasa

Off to Itembe — Mze Sais the Bajoni Chief — Hostile Attitude of the Wa-Siyu — Mattaroni — Bajoni Cotton Cultivation — Native Elephant-hunter — His Description of the Unknown Country — The Rainy Season — Renewed Difficulty in getting away — Sail for Wange — Round the Mongoni Creek — The Pokomoni River — An Arduous Day's March — Tangave — M'Gini — Lake B<_re Bere — Lamu — A Long Overland Tramp — A New Experience — Magarini once more — Mombasa 39° b CONTENTS

Chapter XXII Expedition To Port Durnford Page

A Tedious Delay — A Lion Hunt — Off at last — Organizing my Caravan — German Plantation at Wange — Development of the Country — The Ganda Fly — Indiarubber — A Fine Rice Country — Native Cotton — The Dodori Creek — A Gadfly — The Dodori River — A Lovely Country — The Mundane Hills — Vaas — A Flooded Land — Camping in the Rainy Season — An Important Conference 415

Chapter XXIII Journey To Port Durnford

continued— START FOR THE INTERIOR To Parts Unknown — Bajoni Villages — Rubu — Mohamed bin Saif — Cotton Cultivation — Homwe" — A Unique Event — Difficult Marching — Kionga — An Object of Curiosity — Shakan — An Unexpected Delay — Ras Kiambone Wells — Ancient Ruins — Gome la Hekwa — A Rocky Coast — The Cape of the Pillar — An Alarming Report — Shakalasia — The Dhow Ashore — Port Durnford— Shauris with the Natives — I march Inland 431

Chapter XXIV Search For The Forest

Into the Bush — Cutting our Way — Orchella-weed — Warkono — An Elephant Haunt — Buramanza Hill — Makundu Ridge — A Useless Guide — An ever-receding Forest — Fever — A Shauri with the Guides — Stalking a Leopard — Burkau again — Deceit of Head-man — Resolve to fall back — The Wa-Galla Settlements on the Wiori River — A Declining Race — Good-bye to Port Durnford — Shamku — Thirst — A Weary Night March — Return to Kionga — Engage another Guide — My New Plans 455

Chapter XXV Second Attempt To Reach The Forest

Renewed start Inland — Niambwe Village — Camp in Bajoni Plantation — Breaking the " Charm " — Watiku Agriculture — The Wa- Boni Country — Watiku Intrigues — Soldier Ants — Mohamed reappears — Forest at last — Indiarubber Vines — Gleaning Information — Rain and Swamps — The Dodori River — Disquieting News — An Armed Force — Untrustworthy Guides — Fumo Omari — A Retreat decided on — A Caravan of Indiarubber Collectors — A Satisfactory Bargain — Illness — Kind Friends — My Faithful Dumgu — Loyalty of my Porters — Homeward Bound .... CONTENTS XIX PAGE 505 538 Part II.— ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA

Chapter I General Description And Climatology Of Zanzibar

In search of an Hotel— Sir Lloyd Mathews — Interview with the Sultan — Kinabuni Garden — Sketch of Zanzibar Island — Position Structure and Soil — Rain-fall and Temperature — My Plans

Chapter II Chueni

— KOKOTONI AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY Luxuriant Verdure — Chueni Palace — Clove Plantations — Country round Chueni — Neglected Shambas — Kokotoni — Mr. Fraser's Experiments : Sugar-cane and Coco-nuts — A Charming View — Scarcity of Labour — Salim bin Hamisi and his Estates — Character of Kokotoni District 515

Chapter IX Tour In Pemba Island

Points needing Investigation — Arrival at Weti — Arab Name for the Island — Exuberance of the Vegetation — An Arab Proprietor — Undulating Country — Uncleaned Ground — Fine Clove Trees — Narrow Creeks —Mohamed bin Jumah and his Shambas — Coffee Trees 587

Chapter X Tour In Pemba

ISLAND— continued The Sea-shore near Weti — Cross Weti Creek — Coco-nut Groves — Extensive Cultivation — Cassava — A Considerable River — Drenching Rain — Witchcraft — Wild Vanilla — Swampy Valleys — Hilly Country — Great Extent of Clove Shambas — Need of Drainage — Complete my Inspection 596

Chapter XI Agriculture In Pemba Island

Clove Cultivation in Pemba — Nutmegs — Copra Drying — Rich Soil of the Island — The Labour Question — Scarcity of Capital . . 606 APPENDICES A.— FURTHER INFORMATION RESPECTING THE WA-GIRYAMA . . 615 B.— REPORTS AND VALUATIONS ON EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS . 624 C — METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 656 D.— NOTES ON AMERICAN RUBBER-PRODUCING TREES .... 678 E. — EXTRACTS RELATING TO FIBRE-PLANTS 707 F.— SIR JOHN KIRK'S GARDEN AT ZANZIBAR . . * 726 G.— THE CLOVE TREE 73 1 BIBLIOGRAPHY OF AUTHORITIES REFERRED TO 737 INDEX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR (Frontispiece) THE BAOBAB TREE 3 PORT DURNFORD ESTUARY 5 KILINDINI HARBOUR 6 LANDING-PLACE, MOMBASA 13 DISTRICT OFFICER'S HOUSE, MELINDI 14 SAID BIN HAMID, LIWALI OF MELINDI 15 VASCO DA GAMA'S PILLAR, MELINDI 16 MOMBRUI 19 NATIVE VILLAGE — SHAMBA M'PANDIANI 21 A WANIKA HEAD-MAN 25 WANIKA VILLAGE 27 WANIKA WOMEN 29 EAST AFRICAN SLAVES 31 FREED SLAVES — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 37 A WANIKA HUT 45 VIEW FROM MAGARINI HILL — LOOKING SEAWARDS 49 ALI BIN SALIM, LIWALI OF MOMBRUI, AND HIS BROTHER-IN-LAW . . 55 COCO-NUT TREE 5S BETEL-NUT PALMS 6l PRINCIPAL FRUITS AND FOOD STUFFS OF THE COAST-LANDS .... 65 WANIKA LABOURERS 66 NATIVE AGRICULTURE : THRESHING AND WINNOWING METAMAH . . 75, 79 A GIRYAMA VILLAGE 95 WA-GIRYAMA IOO WA-DIGO 102 WA-GIRYAMA WOMEN 112 WA-GIRYAMA 134 A WA-GIRYAMA FAMILY 135 NATIVES OF M'TANGANIKO 1 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE SWAHILI WOMEN 142 NATIVE SHAMBA, M'TONDOA I4S WATCHING THE WHITE MAN PASS 159 WAKAMBA — NORTH BANK OF THE SABAKI 1 63 VILLAGE GATEWAY — NORTH BANK OF THE SABAKI 1 67 THE THREATENED RAID — ON OUR WAY TO JELORI, NEWS ON THE ROAD l8l A DEAD BABOON ' 197 COCO-NUT TREES IN THE MELINDI DISTRICT 205 COTTON STORE SHED — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 210 SEA ISLAND COTTON PLANTATION — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS .... 211 COCO-NUT GROVE — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 215 BREAKING COCO-NUTS FOR COPRA — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS . . . 217, 219 VIEW FROM MAGARINI HILL 223 VIEW FROM MAGARINI HILL, LOOKING INLAND 231 CAMP IN SHAMBA ABEDI — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 239 WANIKA VILLAGE, NEAR MAGARINI 24I NATIVE LABOUR — FREED SLAVE WOMEN — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS . . 245 CAMP-SHED, SHAMBA BARAKA — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 253 COTTON FIELD— MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 256 MORNING MUSTER — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 257 BREAKING COCO-NUTS FOR COPRA — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS . . . . 26 1 DRYING COPRA — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 265 EAST AFRICAN CAMELS 269 MR.

WEAVER'S HUT — MAGARINI 271 A "SHAURl" WITH WA-GIRYAMA AND WAKAMBA CHIEFS AT JELORI . 275 RECEIVING A WANIKA DEPUTATION AT MY CAMP-SHED IN SHAMBA NGHANIMA 279 A NATIVE DANCE 2S3 FRERE TOWN BAY 2S6 NATIVE VILLAGE 2S9 ARRIVAL OF THE NUBIANS AT MAGARINI 293 MY HEAD-MAN DUMGU 297 SENDING ESTATE PRODUCE TO THE COAST 301 ARAB DHOWS — MOMBASA HARBOUR 305 MORNING MUSTER — MAGARINI 307 PAY-TIME — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 311 EAST AFRICAN CAMELS 315 THE FIRST PLOUGH USED ON THE COAST — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS . . 319 THE TSETSE FLY 356 MAGNIFIED PROBOSCIS OF TSETSE FLY 357 LEAF OF WILD COTTON PLANT GROWING IN THE VILLAGE OF ARURA . 372 BORASSUS PALMS 374 LAMU FORT LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xxiii PAGE LAMU MARKET 406 AFTERNOON TEA AT MAGARINI 409 THE ADMINISTRATOR'S HOUSE AT KILINDINI — MOMBASA 4II MY LAST GLIMPSE OF MAGARINI PLANTATIONS— PEACE AND PROSPERITY 413 MARKET STREET, MOMBASA 416 A STREET IN LAMU 417 MY PORTERS 420 MY PORTERS — A HALT ON THE WAY 426 CAMP AT ITEMBE 428 SHWE 432 RUBU 433 MOHAMED BIN SAIF 434 KIONGA BAY , 43S KIONGA 44O HIGH STONE PILLAR, NORTH OF RAS KIAMBONE 443 MY CARAVAN ON THE MARCH TO PORT DURNFORD 445 CAMP AT SHAKALASIA 447 FIRST VIEW OF PORT DURNFORD ESTUARY 449 CAMP AT BURKAU 450 PORT DURNFORD 452 INTO THE BUSH 453 BURAMANZA HILL 456 OUR PATH THROUGH THE' BUSH 458 LAST DAY'S CAMP IN THE BUSH 459 TYPE OF LARGER TREE GROWING IN THE INTERIOR 461 CAMP AT BURKAU 464 CAMP AT SHAMKU 468 KIONGA— PORTERS WAITING FOR THE ORDER TO START 475 CAMP IN MOHAMED BIN SAIF'S METAMAH SHAMBA 477 SHAURI WITH THE WA-BONI HEAD-MAN . 480 WA-BONI WOMEN 4&I MY PRESENTS TO THE WA-BONI 4§3 IN THE WA-BONI COUNTRY — WAITING FOR GUIDES 485 THE DODORI RIVER 491* 492 LOOKING DOWN THE DODORI RIVER 495 LAST CAMP IN THE WA-BONI COUNTRY 49§ THE FORT — MOMBASA 5°° HOMEWARD BOUND 5°2 RESTING AT THE WELL 531 ARAB WELI 5$(> BOWSTRING HEMP 7°S SECTIONS OF LEAVES OF SPECIES OF SANSEVIERIA LIST OF MAPS LIST OF MAPS PAGE KEY TO SECTIONAL MAPS facing ix EAST AFRICA: COAST-LAND FROM MOMBASA TO MELINDI. . . ,, I SKETCH-PLAN OF MAGARINI SHAMBAS 39 THE TANA RIVER, FROM GOLBANTI TO THE BELESONI CANAL . fating 339 SKETCH-MAP OF KAU AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 343 SKETCH-MAP OF KIPINI 367 SKETCH-MAP OF KILIMANI 378 EAST AFRICA : MELINDI TO LAMU, INCLUDING THE LOWER SABAKI AND TANA RIVER DISTRICTS facing 37S SKETCH-MAP OF FAZA 381 SKETCH-MAP OF SIYU 385 MAP OF PATTA ISLANt) facing 388 EAST AFRICA : COAST-LAND FROM LAMU TO TORT DURNFORD . ,, 502 MAP OF ZANZIBAR ISLAND ". ,, 546 MAP OF PEMBA ISLAND ,, 604 METEOROLOGICAL STATIONS IN EAST AFRICA TRAVELS IN EAST AERICA Part I.— THE MAINLAND

Introduction

THE COAST-LANDS OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA General Appearance — Vegetation — Rivers and Harbours — Rain-fall- Pre\ ailing Winds — Temperature — Relative Humidity — Population. The explorations described in these pages covered (in addition to the islands of Lamu and Patta) the whole of the coast region between Mombasa and Port Durnford, extending up the Sabaki valley for upwards of one hundred miles, the country between Lamu and Port Durnford being entirely new and previously unexplored. A glance at the map shows that the country traversed by me embraces the greater part of the four hundred miles of coast-line pertaining to the British East African Protectorate. The general appearance of this coast-line is flat and low ; its leading characteristics, apart from its occasional coral nature, coral forming the principal substratum, being its frequent winding inland creeks, which are belted with dense fringes of mangroves.

These creeks form natural water-ways, and are admirably adapted to serve, as in fact they do, as outlets for inland produce. Such,- for instance, are the several creeks running back from the fine land-locked harbour of Mombasa or Kilifi, opening out into one of the finest havens H on the coast, close to which is situated the large native town of Takaungu, the present outlet of the produce of the Giryama country ; the network of creeks behind Lamu, Manda, and Patta Islands ; and further north, the important estuary of Port Durnford. Noticeable in another way, are the numerous small and shallow back-waters, forming what I may describe as natural salt-pans, the salt deposited by evaporation after the high neap-tides, more than supplying the needs of the surrounding population. North of Kionga, mangroves entirely cease, and the coast continues open up to the Juba river, consisting of low rocky coral headlands, alternating with wide, shallow, white sandy bays, in which are generally found enormous masses of accumulated sea-weed ; whilst south of Port Durnford an almost continuous chain of low islets forms — some distance from the coast — a natural barrier to the waves, enabling small craft to navigate the smoother water within at all seasons of the year, and the monotony of the low, white sandy ridge immediately fronting the beach is only broken here and there by scattered groups of Casuarina trees, so extensively grown in some districts of the Madras Presidency for their valuable fuel and well-known wind-resisting qualities.

Looking inland, we find a wide, very nearly flat, expanse of country, covered almost everywhere with dense low bush, and such is the general appearance of all the higher portions of the coast, in which that typical African tree, the baobab, forms a conspicuous feature. The baobab (Adansonia digitata) impresses an observer at once by its singular appearance, and enormous massive trunk and branches. It is a deciduous tree, and is held in great esteem amongst the natives, not oni}- for its fruit, but also for the hard outer shell enclosing the fruit, which forms the calabash so universally used as the native water-bucket. The wood of the stem is very soft, and somewhat resembles cork, and has been found to possess qualities suitable for the manufacture of paper. In the low-lying parts thick clumps of Hyphæne palms — assuming in places the proportions of regular forests — take the place of the thick bush already described.

This palm — the dum palm (Hyphæne thebaica) — not only grows very extensively along special portions of the coast, but is also a prominent feature of the inland vegetation fringing the banks of the principal rivers. It yields a sap very similar to the toddy obtained from the palmyra and coco-nut palms in India, and which there forms an important article for sugar manufacture ; but in East Africa unfortunately, its use so far is confined to the making of an intoxicating drink resembling the well-known arrack. It is from the flavour of the fruit that this curious palm has obtained the name of the "gingerbread tree." The fruit is of a deep brown colour and about the size THE BAOBAB TREE. of a small mango or orange ; and from its pounded rind a flour is obtained, and eaten either raw or cooked, tasting strongly of gingerbread.

Proceeding inland, the vegetation takes the form of thick forest, which south of the Tana river becomes somewhat irregular and patchy ; though as an exception to this general rule I would instance the greater portion of the Giryama country, including the fertile Sabaki valley, where the forest is of considerable size and extent, whilst north of the Tana it assumes very large proportions, so much so, that we are not able even to this day to define its actual limits and extent. Beyond this, the traveller emerges upon a comparatively waterless and barren country, extending to the foot of the higher interior plateau, the congenial home of cacti, euphorbia, and mimosa trees, and also exceedingly rich in varieties of aloes and fibre-yielding plants. Such are, in brief outline, the chief physical characteristics of the coast-lands.

The river system of a country forms a most important feature of its resources, both agricultural and commercial, and in this respect British East Africa is not ill provided. Putting aside minor streams, and water-courses full only during the rains, we have first the Umba river in the extreme south, forming the first part of our boundary with German East Africa. Next the Sabaki, flowing through a rich, fertile, and almost uninhabited country, and entering the sea between the thriving coast towns of Melindi and Mombrui. Although its numerous shallow sand-banks entirely preclude navigation, the river offers other facilities — apart from decided possibilities in the matter of irrigation — such as the floating down of timber and raw fibre material, etc. About fifty miles further on, we come to the more important Tana river, flowing into Formosa Bay.

A little above, again, is the Ozi river watering the very fertile district of Witu, and entering the sea to the southward of Lamu Island. These two rivers — the Tana and Ozi — are connected by the artificial canal of Belesoni, two miles in length, which conveys the Tana trade into the Ozi river, and thence to Lamu, for the mouth of the Tana is blocked by a sand-bar. The canal joins the Ozi at the town of Kau, about ten to twelve miles inland, whilst at the mouth of that river is another town of importance, Kipini. To the north we have first the river flowing into the Port Durnford estuary, and navigable by steamers of considerable draught, and lastly the largest river of all, the suba, forming the northern boundary of our sphere. Three of these rivers, the Tana, the Ozi, and the Juba, are navigable, though the bars at the mouths make them difficult of entrance at present.

The East Africa Company's large stern-wheel steamer Kenia, under the charge of Commander F. G. Dundas, R.N., successfully ascended the Tana and the- Juba and navigated the former for three hundred and fifty and the latter for four hundred miles — thus demonstrating not only the practicability of navigating these rivers with a vessel of considerable size, but their great value as future commercial highways. Besides smaller harbours, the coast possesses several capable of admitting ocean steamers, as the following particulars from the African Pilot will testify 1 — " Wasin Harbour in the south, between the island ot that PORT DURNFORD ESTUARY. name and the mainland (east of the port of Wanga), is a safe anchorage in any weather, with from six to ten fathoms. " Its eastern entrance is clear from danger, and on the west there is a navigable channel between Tanga and Wasin inside the reefs, which has not yet been examined ; but in 1878 the Fawn found no difficulty in proceeding from Tanga Island as far as Gomani Bay.