Caravan Journeys and Wanderings in Persia, Afghanistan, Turkistan, and Beloochistan: with historical notices of the countries lying between Russia and India. ... Translated from the original unpublished [French] manuscript by ... W. Jesse. Edited by H. D. Seymour

Front matter

flrtjl M.1RZA AGHASSI, rrime Minister of.Fersia under foe late Mahmood Shalt From a drawing by a Persian Artiat. FttONTI8Fltt( CARAVAN JOURNEYS AND WANDERINGS I.N PERSIA, AFGHANISTAN, TURKISTAN, AND BELOOCHISTAN; WITH HISTORICAL NOTICES OF THE COUNTRIES LYING BETWEEN RUSSIA AND INDIA. BY J. P. FERRIER, FORMERLY OP THE CHASSEURS D' AFRIQUE, AND LATE ADJUTANT-GENERAL OF THE PERSIAN ARMY. <£ranslatt> from % Original iftnp-blissjiEb ||tatmstrt)it By CAPT. WILLIAM JESSE! EDITED BY H. D. SEYMOUR, M.P. WITH ORIGINAL MAP AND WOODCUTS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1856. The right nt Translation is reserved. LONDON I PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. gtbkateb TO MY ANCIENT COMRADES, LI- THE 1st REGIMENT OF CARABINEERS AND THE 2nd REGIMENT OF CHASSEURS D'AFRIQUE. J. P. FERRIER. Pondicherry, 1856. a 2 y-

Preface

. The Travels presented in this volume to the public contain, it is believed, the latest accounts by an European of the countries of Central Asia. A part of the route is wholly new, and has never before been described. The author, M. Ferrier, is a French officer at present holding a government appointment at Pondi cherry, who, born of respectable parents, enlisted as a private soldier, and served with distinction in Africa, where he gained the rank of " Marechal de logis." In remembrance of these campaigns he has dedicated his book to his ancient comrades of the Carabineers and Chasseurs d'Afrique. About sixteen years ago M. Ferrier was selected, with other French officers, to go to Persia to drill and organize the Persian army — the English detachment,* which had been previously employed on that duty, having left the country, when diplomatic relations with the government of the Shah were suspended in 1839.

M. Ferrier served in Persia for many years, and received the honorary rank of Adjutant-General of the Persian army. He at length got into trouble from his known opposition to Russian interests, and, as he believes, through the intrigues of the Russian ambassador, was removed * Several of the officers belonging to this detachment subsequently rose into notice. Sir Justin Sheil held for ten years the important post of Minister in Persia ; Colonel Farrant was Charg. d'Affaires at Teheran during a period of great difficulty ; Major D'Arcy Todd was Envoy to Herat during the Afghan war; and Sir Henry Rawlinson, after successively filling the posts of Political Agent at CaDdahar and in Turkish Arabia, has been recently appointed to the East India Direction. VI

PREFACE.

. from his post. He returned to France in 1843, visiting on his way all the Russian provinces to the south of the Caucasus. M. Guizot was then first Minister in France, pursuing a temporizing peace policy, so that M. Ferrier entirely failed to get his alleged complaints against the Persian government attended to. After waiting several years in France in vain attempts to obtain the assistance of the government, he again, in 1845, turned his steps eastwards, determined to seek his fortunes in Lahore, where several of his countrymen were serving under Runjeet Singh. He staid a short time in Bagdad, and then set out upon his journey for Lahore, through Persia and Afghanistan. At this point the following Narrative begins. It de tails with spirit and liveliness his journey through Persia till he reached the territories of Yar Mohamed ; and here the more important part of the book commences, because henceforward the countries through which he passed are little known.

There is probably no part of the world, not excepting the interior of Africa, which is so dangerous and inaccessible to the European traveller as Afghanistan and the countries of Central Asia. It is curious to read a Frenchman's account of Herat seven years after the celebrated siege, and four years after our evacuation of Afghanistan. It is satis factory to find from an impartial witness the respect in which the English name is still held in these countries, and the grateful remembrance which the people enter tain ofthe many acts of benevolence and kindness per formed by our distinguished countrymen while there. The graphic account of the interviews of M. Ferrier with that shameless politician, but most able ruler, Yar Mohamed, will also be found characteristic and instructive.

PREFACE.

. VII From Herat M. Ferrier tried to penetrate to Lahore by Balkh and Cabul, and here takes us over ground only partially known. Baffled in his attempt to pass, when at no great distance from Cabul, he strikes through the Hazarah country to the west by a route which no Afghan dare travel, and where no European had hitherto set foot, till he nearly reached the ancient town of Gour. Here he was again stopped, and sent back to Herat. After resting from his labours, although warned of the danger of attempting it, he now set out to try and reach India through Southern Afghanistan, by Girishk and Candahar, and it is only wonderful, after reading his perilous adventures, to find that he was enabled to return alive from these inhospitable lands. This part of the journey is particularly interesting, because he fell in here with many traces of the previous English occupation.

He passed the post-houses we had erected : he met the chiefs who had either har rassed us in our misfortunes, or stood boldly by us in time of danger. His life was probably saved at Girishk by one whose good-will we had gained ; and at Candahar he saw the unburied remains of one of our surest and best friends, slaughtered in his own garden, in tardy vengeance for the assistance he had rendered us during the Afghan war. M. Ferrier's account of the grand river Helmund, which disappears in the Lake Seistan ; his description of the country of Seistan, and of the wild Belooches, is clear and ably written, interspersed as the Narrative always is with exciting personal adventure, and traits of the character of the natives, such as could only be obtained by one who travelled alone, and like a native himself. These parts of Candahar and Seistan are particularly interesting to us, because, since the port of Kurrachee

PREFACE.

. in Sinde was improved and the fair established about four years ago, considerable traffic has sprung up with these countries ; and it is probable that in a few years our intercourse with them will be much increased. It is said that of late years they have been principally supplied with English manufactures by way of Petersburg, since steam-communication has been established on the Volga and the Caspian, and even, I believe, the Aral Sea.* If such be really the case, there can be no doubt that Kurrachee may offer a successful competition, as it is on the coast of the countries to be supplied ; and the longer sea-voyage from England would be cheaper than the route through Russia, which requires tedious land-carriage and a constant change of the means of transport. The probable reason that the Russian has hitherto had an advantage is, that there has been no port on the coast of Beloochistan or Sinde, and English merchandise could only penetrate into Central Asia from the south, either by the Persian Gulf, Bombay, or Calcutta.

The Talpoor dynasty in Sinde, which pre ceded our occupation of the province, shut up the mouths of the Indus and the ports of Sinde against commerce, as the surest means, in their opinion, of preserving their country against annexation ; consequently the large commerce which once flourished there is only just beginning again to spring up. The esta blishment of the port of Kurrachee ; the rail which is being now laid down from that point to Koltree on the Indus ; steam-navigation on the Indus ; the railroad from Moultan to Lahore, which must be made in a few years ; the projected railroad across Mesopotamia, corresponding with a line of steamers from the Persian Gulf to Kurrachee ; and the roads across the Himalaya .Mountains, opening routes into Thibet and China, must * See Mr. Andrews's work on the Sinde railway.

PREFACE.

. IX gradually draw down to the ports of Sinde a large portion of the commerce of the great Asiatic table land. Some of the first countries to be influenced are Beloochistan and Afghanistan ; and therefore every information concerning them, as to their productions, population, and the temper of the people and their rulers, is a subject of great and increasing interest. It is in these countries of Central Asia that we shall have for some years to come to fight a pacific battle with Russia ; a battle which friends may fight, in which the struggle will not exhaust but invigorate the combatants ; where the object of contention is as to who shall bring to the nations of Asia the manufactures of the civilised world ? who shall stimulate them most to send in return the productions of their own fertile countries ?

I had the pleasure of meeting M. Ferrier in 1846, at Teheran, soon after he had returned from his dan gerous adventures. The next time I saw him was at Pondicherry, in 1854, when he showed me his MSS., and I offered to take charge of, and try to get an English publisher for a translation of them. They formed two volumes, of which the first, containing the Narrative, is now presented to the public ; the second, a History of the Afghans, with Traditions collected in the Country, will follow, should the first be well received. The excellent translation of them is due to the labours of Captain Jesse, who has bestowed great care upon it. I have been greatly assisted in revising the volume for the press by Sir Henry Rawlinson, whose great profi ciency in ancient and modern Eastern lore, and special acquaintance with Afghanistan from having been poli tical agent at Candahar during the Afghan war, made his assistance invaluable. My warmest thanks are due to him for having been good enough to look over the X

PREFACE.

. work of an unscientific, but very observant traveller, and for having enabled me, from his communications, to furnish the notes marked " Ed." Sir John Login, who was surgeon to the British Mission at Herat, under Major Todd, and is now the guardian of the Maharajah Duleep Singh, most kindly looked over the part relating to Herat, with which he is so well acquainted, and the notes marked " L.", as well as an Appendix, are contributions from his stores of knowledge. These competent witnesses declare M. Ferrier's Work to be, in their opinion, most accurate and faithful. Extracts from the MSS. were read at the meeting of the British Association at Liverpool, in 1854, and Sir Roderick Murchison, in his observations upon them, said that he considered the work a valuable addition to our knowledge of the important countries of which it treats.

I do not hold myself responsible for the opinions ex pressed by the Author, especially upon political sub jects ; neither do I profess an agreement with some of them. They are given from a French point of view differing from that generally taken in England, but are always expressed in most friendly terms towards our countrymen, doing them ample justice. It appears to me always desirable, in order to form a correct judg ment, to hear the statements of others, even though we may be inclined to disagree with them. I now commit the book to the candid judgment of the reader, believing that it shows acute observation conscientious care, and considerable reading ; which latter accomplishment is surprising when we consider the active life of the Author, and his few opportunities for consulting books. — The Editor. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The Author leaves Bagdad — Object of his journey — Neiessity for concealment — Scene with his servant's creditors — Nasse'li Fla'es — Fortifications of Bagdad — Bakubah — The caravan — The Author's costume — The necessity for wearing it — Mollah Ali — Sheraban — Descriptbn of the jovial Mollah — His opinion of his countrymen — Appearance cf the country — Kuzil Robat — Ancient walls — Kanaki — The Mollah's opinion of Mussulman pilgrims — His love of brandy and sausages — The private and Caravanserai Shah — The bazaar at Kanaki — Bandit population — Advantages of an Eastern dress — Caravan travelling — Kind feeling cf tbe Mollah — Adam's forks preferred to silver ones — Marauders — Kusra Shireen — The Mollah all courage — The Bilbers appear — The Mollah all fears — The attack — The Mollah found where he should not have been — Description of Kusra Shireen — Ruins near it — The legend connected with them — The site of the ancient Oppidam .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Page 1

Chapter II

Serpeul — Attack on the Jafs — Attacked by the Jafs — Persian honour — Shah Abbas Khan — His vile conduct to the foregoing tribe — Official malversations — Karund — Mountain road — The Sindjavis — Conduct ofthe Princess — Scene of confusion — Iliate apathy — Mollah Ali's opinion of these nomads — Relation of Mahomedan sects to one another — The pass of Karund — Arrival at that town — The inhabitants — Revolt of the Karundians — Reason for this — Horrible treachery — Crime committed with impunity — Haroonabad — Mahed-asht — Kermanshah — Mohamed Ali Mirza — Abbas Mirza — Kurdish troops — Decay of Kermanshah — Persian army — Emir Mohib Ali Khan — Bad administration — Flocks of the Kurds — Horses of the province — Carpets — Cakes of Manna — Revenues — Tak-el-Bostan — Ivan's villany — Besitoon — The Kerkha river — Extensive ruins — Inscriptions — The Persian caravan — Kun gawar — Mount Nahavend — Fortress of Kungawar — Battle here in 641 a.d. — Fine pastures — The site of ancient Ecbatana — Arrian — The tomb of Hephæstion 1-4 CONTENTS. XII

Chapter III

Sahadabad — Walled vilLges — Fanatical Mollahs — Hamadan — Highwaymen — Small respect so the Church — Effects of poison — A French homœopathist — How treated by his General — Mode of punishment — Historical associations of Hamadm — The tombs of Esther and Mordecai — Description of Hamadan — Inhabitants — Prince Khan Lar Mirza — Sertip Ferz Ullah Khan — An tinted family — The Author meets an old acquaintance — A visit to Ferz Ulah Khan — Persian morality — An importunate Seid — The Author robbai — Caravanier's reason for not commencing a journey on a Thursday — "Veracity of muleteers — Persian servants — Bibikabad — Zereh — Noovaran — Flourishing villages — Rich country — Appropriation of public revenues — Persian superstition — Tamo fish . . . . Page 33

Chapter IV

Shemereen — Koshgek — The peak of Demavend — Khanabad — Rabat Kerim — Irrigation — Modes of travelling in Persia — A royal Finnan — Travelling on horseback — With a Mehmendar — His mode of proceeding — Travelling with a caravan — The Djilo-dar — The Persian and his ass — Mules and muleteers — Persian rule of faith — Ab-dookh — Caravanserais — Teheran — View approaching the city — Melancholy reflections — Blighted prospects — General Se"mineau — Doctor Jacquct's indiscretion — Village of Shah Abdul Azim — The Author discharges his servant — Tlie consequences — Joins a caravan of pilgrims on their way to Meshed .. .. ..45

Chapter V

Hissar-emir — The ruins of Rhages — El Boorj — Antique coins — Tombos Bibee Sherabanon — Legend connected with this lady — Plain of Verameen rich and fertile — Eywanee-Keij — Irrigation — Vultures — Description of a caravan of pilgrims — How collected — The Chief Syud — Abject reverence for him — His evening sermon — Fanatical brutality — Kishlak Defile of Sirdaree — Military position — Kohi-tuz or salt mountains Position of the Caspian Straits — Erroneously laid down — Arrian's description of the site — Deh-nemuck — Feicoz-koh — District of Ich Aredan Bricks of salt — Lasjird — Military position — Fortifications — Semnoon — Description of the town — Its ancient history — Effects of irrigation Rear-guard of Bessus — Arrian — Scene in the kebab-shop — Ad°vanta<'es and disadvantages of wearing a native dress — The constellation of happy import — The lame Dervish— Monsieur Ferrier taken before the Governor — The satisfactory result ........ -* CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter VI

Aheeiyon — Goocheh — Damghan — Description of it — Position of Hecatompylos — Persian legend — History of the Parthians — Opinion of the Kazee of Herat — District of Komus — Decline of Damghan — Arab minarets of burnt brick — Citadel — Shah Rokh — Deh-mollah — Whirlwind — Effects of it — Meimandoos — Attention of Soliman Khan — The merchant arrested — Persian justice — Shah-rood — Description of this town — Important place — Manufactures here — Bostam — Fertility of this district — Good horses — Shah-rood and Bostam coveted by Russia — Hecatompylos — The pilgrim pilferer — Scene in consequence — The French botanist — Privations — Meyomeed — Turcomans — Miyane Dasht — Abbasabad — Georgian colony — Muzeenoon — Attacked by the Turcomans — Russian and Persian slaves at Khiva — Horrible fate of General Bekevitch — Atrocities of the Khivians — Mouravieffs account of them Page 68 y

Chapter VII

X Turcoman preparations for a foray — Mode of training their horses — Singular kind of forage — Forced marches — Arrangements before attacking a caravan — Wretched fate of the prisoners — Turcoman cruelty — Reprisals — Turcoman mode of fighting — Monsieur Ferrier's opinion of the Turcoman as a soldier — The comical consequences of a defeat — Honour amongst thieves — Geographical position of the Turcomans — The Khirgah — The three principal tribes — Their origin and similarity to the Uzbeks — Mental and physical characteristics of the Turcomans — The women, and their value as wives — A Turcoman excuse for kidnapping the Persians — Turcoman religion — The way to reduce these hordes — Mode adopted by Shah Abbas — Simple fare of these tribes — ■ Their treatment of horses — The steppes of Turcomania — The breed of horses — Introduction of Arab blood by Tamerlane and Nadir Shah — Breed of the Hazarahs and Uzbeks — Extraordinary journeys performed by the Turcoman horses — The price of them in the steppes — Cavalry horses in France — Bad system of breeding there — -The veterinary art in Turcomania — Diseases of horses .. 83

Chapter VIII

Extensive ruins near Muzeenoon — Alayar Khan — Ancient caravanserai — Mehr — Large herds of deer — Villages — Subzawar — Arab town — Prosperous appearance of Subzawar — Invaded by the Afghans in 1721 — The Author hires a new servant — Zaffouroonee — Aridity and fertility — Ruined caravanserai — The largest in Persia — Cufic characters — Legend respecting the builder — The merchant and his saffron — Nishapoor — Description of the town — History of it — Turquoise-mines in the neighbourhood — Visit to the Governor-General of Khorassan — Courteous CONTENTS. XIV reception by Assaf Doulet — Persian politics — Mohamed Hassan Khan — A present from the Governor — Amazement of the pilgrims — Turning the tables — Derrood — Beauty of the country — Picturesque village — Turgoveh — Mountain road — The Mollah and the trout — Mountain scenery — Splendid view — Jugkerk — Gipsies . . . . Page 99

Chapter IX

The city of Meshed — Gold and silver mines — The pilgrim's reason why they are not worked — Altercation with the custom-house officer — Tbe General's visitors — Afghan manners — Mohamed Wali Khan — Agreeable acquaintances — Hospitality of the Persians — The Author robbed — The ancient Thous — History of Meshed — Its commercial importance — Population — Persecution of the Jews in 1839 — Burial grounds — The Khiabane — Commerce of Meshed — Carpets — Stone-quarries — The great mosque — The Hindoo's justification for entering it — Dr. Wolf — Stoddart and Conolly — The Author advised not to proceed — Reasons for not taking that advice — Fight between the townspeople and the troops — Escorted out of the town — Leaves Meshed .. .. .. .. .. 116

Chapter X

Turokh — Shock of an Earthquake — Sangbut — The offensive Camel — Toll on Women — Hedireh — Variety of Partridges — Mahmoodabad — Tamerlane the Destroyer — The sedentary Dervish — Fertile district of Shehr-noon — Hazarah horses — Toorbut-ishak-Khan — Toorsheez — Toorbut Sheikh Jamee — Kariz — Celebrated melons — Wild asses a delicacy — Kussan — The army of Ahmed Shah annihilated — The Heri-rood — Geographical error — Consequences of turning a stream — Pay of a Sirdar — Environs of Kussan — Forest of Shevesh — Game — Rosanuck — Gorian — Shekwan — Anticipated reception by Yar Mohamed .. .. .. 134

Chapter XI

Herat — Early reception— The officer on guard— The Sertip Lai Khan — His daring feat at the siege of Herat — Monsieur Ferrier is sent to his house — Orders of Yar Mohamed — Visit from the Doctors — Their mode of treatment — Cyanate of Mercury — The Bayaderes and the wine cup Visit to Yar Mohamed Khan— His reception of the Author Persists in taking him for an Englishman — Result of the conference — Policy of Yar Mohamed with the English — Asiatic characteristics — The Khan's engineering tactics at the siege — Yar Mohamed's policy — His confidants — His power — Protection to the Eimaks — Probable result of this — The Vizier's administration of justice — Security of the public roads —Taxation at Herat — Measures taken for the Khan's personal safety — His origin and rise to power— His son Syud Mohamed Khan —Competitors for the" throne — Mirza Nejef Khan — Other Sirdars CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XII

Excursion in the environs — Uzbeks from Kundooz — Descendants of Alexander the Great — The Greeks — Of the Asiatic Dynasties — The sites of ancient cities — Artakoana, Aria Metropolis, and Sous — The seven sieges of Herat — Tooli Khan — Massacre by Ghengis Khan — Tamerlane — Obeid Khan — Herat sacked by the Uzbeks — Fortified by Shah Rokh Mirza — The actual position of Herat — The fortifications — The citadel — Improvements by the English engineers — Population before the siege and after — Yar Mohamed's acts at this time — His subsequent conduct — Persian cities as readily rebuilt as destroyed — Devastation at the siege of 1838 — The bazaars — The architect and the cupola — Public buildings at Herat Page 162

Chapter XIII

The palace of Bagh-shah — Beautiful view from thence — Gazer-gah — Tomb of Khojah Abdullah Insah — The advantage of being buried within its precincts — Column of white marble — Mausoleum of a Mongol princess — Probably executed by an artist in the time of Tamerlane — Arabesques of Geraldi, an Italian, employed by Abbas Mirza — The mosque at Musella — Sultan Hussein and Shah Rokh great patrons of architecture — Mausoleum of the latter — Ruins at the foot of the mountains near Herat — Religious customs — The value of them — The cunning of the Mollahs — Thaleh-bengy — Ancient temple of the fire-worshippers — Site of the ancient city of Herat — Yar Mohamed's English garden — Rouzbagh — Climate — Productions — Men capable of bearing arms — Afghan ideas of European history — The Author's imprisonment — Opinions of the people — The Author released .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 176

Chapter XIV

General Ferrier leaves Herat — Advice of Yar Mohamed — Execution of a Taymoonee chief — Horrible scene in the bazaar at Herat — Afghan morality — Purwana — Kooshk-robat — Kooshk-assaib — Chingoorek — Turchikh — Encampment of Hazarah Zeidnats — Their origin and history — District of Kaleh-nooh — Kerim-dad Khan — Defeated by Yar Mohamed — Cloth made from the wool of the camel and goat — Hazarah horses — Intrigues of Kerim-dad Khan — His contingent — The Jumshidies — Murder of Yar Mohamed's envoy — Mingal — Origin of the Tajiks — Physical characteristics ofthe Hazarahs — Their women soldiers — Village of Moorghab — Abdul Aziz Khan — Friendly reception by him — The Moorghab river — Fever — The Firooz-Kohis — Their chiefs — Kaleh- Weli — The Kapchaks — Eimaks — Their military strength — Charchembeh — Kaissar— Khanat of MeirnSna — Military force — Departure of Feiz Mohamed — Opinion of him .. .. •• •• •■ •• CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter XV

Kaffir-Kaleh — Precautions — Rabat Abdullah Khan — Gipsies — Shibberghan — Irrigation and cultivation — Rustem Khan — A sketch of this chief— Siege of Andekhooye — Local politics —Rivalry and intrigues of the chiefs of Turkistan — Andekhooye — Akhcheh — Meilik — Cholera there — Balkh — Advice of the two Hazarahs — The Author continues with them — Cuneiform inscriptions — History of Balkh — Fidelity of the two Hazarahs— The Emir of Bokhara— Mazar — Mosque there held in great reverence — Khulm — Uzbek politics — Army of Khulm — The river of that name — Report of Englishmen being in prison at Mazar and Khulm — Sepoys of the Cabul army — An unpleasant dose — The Mir Wali aud Dost Mohamed — The war between these two chiefs — Cause of it — Akbar Khan and the slave girl — Asiatic curiosity — Heibak — Kanjeli Uzbeks — Korram — Advice and discretion of the two Hazarahs .. Page 200

Chapter XVI

Kartchoo — Mountains of the Paropamisus — Alayav Beg — Receives the Author in his tent — Assassination of Saduk Khan — Despair of the Author — The Hazarah Tartars — Kaissar Beg — Hazarahs of the East — The principal chiefs of this tribe — Military force of each — The Sirdar Hassan Khan ben Zorab — Strength of his army — Description of the country — Afghan inroads — Tamerlane and the Hazarahs — Quintus Curtius — The Berbers — Dehas — Beautiful carpets — Tracts of grass — Sirpool — Mahmood Khan the Governor — Military force — Monsieur Ferrierwell received by this chief — Mahmood Khan desirous of an alliance with the British Government — Description of the country through which the Author is going — Quick travelling — E'imak dogs — Fertile valley — Rock inscriptions and bas-reliefs — Mountains — Description of Boodhi — Div Hissar — Defile — Steppe — The Scherai — Their habits — Idol temple — Timour Beg — Delicate attentions .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 217

Chapter XVII

Singlak — Singular excavations in the rocks — The legend connected with them — Quarrel between the Hazarahs and Firooz Kohis — Unsuccessful attack by the latter — Courage of the Tartar women — Their military capabilities — Alteration in the Author's route — Kohistani-baba — Highest elevation of the mountain range — Magnificent view — Valley commencing at the sources of the Dehas — The Ser Jingelab and Tingelab — The Siah Koh and Sufeid Koh — Course of the Heri-rood — Coins found in the ruins of Karabagh — Hassan ben Zorab — Encampment of Kohistani-baba — The silent Agha — Deria-derre' — Picturesque scene near a lake — The province of Gour— The tribe of the Taymoonis — Their military force — Wily policy of Yar Mohamed Khan — Ibrahim Khan — The value of seven Korans — Spirited conduct of this Khan — The Author in a difficulty — Osman Khan .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..

CONTENTS. XVII CHATTER XVIII. The Author leaves for Zerni — Stomi in the mountains — Afghan faith — Ancient capital of Gour — History of the province — The Sirdar Habib Ullah Khan — The Author detained — The mountain of Chalap-dalan — The ancient towns of Kaleh Kaissar, Kaleh Sigeri, and Fakhrabad — Destruction committed by Yar Mohamed's troops — Inhabitants of the Paropamisus — The Eimaks — Admirable horsemanship of their women — The necessary qualification before they marry — E'imak women dreaded by the Afghans — Mineral riches — Geographical features — Difficulty in describing this country — Its inhabitants — Abinevane — Author obliged to separate from the faithful Hazarahs — Bad traits of Afghan character — Narbend — Tarsi — Herat — Kind reception by Yar Mohamed — Preparations for departure to Kandahar — Interesting account of Captain Conolly's servant ■ — Letters of Yar Mohamed to Dost Mohamed and Akbar Khan Page 246

Chapter XIX

The Author leaves Herat — Shabith — Inundations of the Heri-rood — Mode of preventing them — Continuation of the Siah Koh — Steppes between Herat and Kandahar — Adreskan — Caravanserais built by the English — River of Adreskan — Called by various names — Description of it — Route of an army going to Kandahar — Kash-jabaran — Irruption of Afghans into the Author's tent — Scene there in consequence — The friend of man in Afghanistan — A nice specimen of this country — Diplomacy of the Author — Rascality of Mons. Ferrier's escort — The Meseh — Ab-Kourmeh — Cool impudence of Jubbur Khan — Necessity for submission — Scarcity of water — Fever and thirst — Thermometer in the shade — Military position — Rascally exactions — Afghan character — Miserable condition of the Author — Gurm-ab — The hot wind — ■ Jubbur Khan again — The plain of Bukwa .. .. .. .. .. .. •• •• 261

Chapter XX

Tax upon travellers — Camp of Noorzyes — Another scene in a tent — Curiosity and questions — Why the European's skin is white — The limits of Iliate hospitality — Haji-Ibrahimi — A night with the nomads — Their dish called kooroot — The Persian Kesht — Attack of the Noorzyes — Hatred existing between Afghan tribes — Character of the Afghan — Incapable of amelioration — Habits of the Eiimaks — Washeer — Afghan instincts —Mode of calculating time — The Persian talker — The Author enters the territory of Kandahar — Crosses the Khash-rood — The Wali of Washeer — The advantages of hospitality — More troubles — What a European is in the eyes of an Afghan — The Author turns cook — Imprudence of travelling with trunks — Treachery of the new guide — Attack upon Mons. Ferrier and his servants — Character of the Parsivans — Biabanak 275 b CONTENTS. XVIII