Vicissitudes of Bush Life in Australia and New Zealand

Chapter I. Chapter XIX

CHAPTER XLII

CHAPTER I. WHAT

a host of associations start up at the mention of Home, especially in connection with my last view of it, in the sunny month of June ; with its garments of green and purple on mountain and valley ; its green waA'ing woods and bright glistening water ; the evening skies fringed with golden and purple clouds ; the noon-day sun, with its golden beams, lighting up hill, wood, and water, with a dazzling brightness that seems now truly the light of other days. For, in all my wanderings since, in sultrier climes, what sun has shone so brightly, or what landscape looked so truly lovely, as those scenes of my childhood amongst the hills of Argyleshire, and by the shores of Lochfyne ? Wordsworth has some beautiful, though fanciful, lines Avritten on the scenes of his childhood, in which, adopting the Platonic theory of a previous existence, he accounts for the golden associations of childhood's years, by the idea that an infant's soul is filled with memories of its former blissful state, and that these memories grow more faint as the child's years increase.

Be that as it may, I can readily imagine of those endowed with the poetic faculty that the season of their unconscious, inarticulate childhood, is the true period of their espousal by the muse. I am not now referring to those robust geniuses who, eA'en in their tender years, show the bent of their irrepressible natures, but only to those whose gifts are of a Aveaker growth ; and who do not discover their talent till years have matured their powers. Such I would advise to return in thought to the habit of their youthful ideas, when everything appeared earnest ; when the melody of birds, the humming of bees, the very shape of the summer clouds, the daisies and primroses, had a meaning, a purpose, an existence to them, and were fraught with an exquisite sense of harmony, which ■•) BUSH LIFE IN AUSTRALIA. they implicitly accepted, and never dreamt of analysing.

It 1S as we grow older, and have to deal with stern realities, when the ideal faculty becomes hampered in its scope by the en croachment of practical necessities, that we learn to smile at these undefined crudities that were once sources of such intense enjoyment to us. Yet so strangely constituted a being is man, to whom always "Distance lends enchantment to the Anew,' that, as the child grows up to manhood, his ideas of happiness become simply inverted. For, as now we look back to the season of our youth as the time of our purest happiness, then, though richly enjoying that season, we ever looked forward to man hood's golden future — when, freed from the shackles of school, the foreground was teeming with wealth. Such, at least, were my ideas, when, a raw youth of eighteen, I prepared to start for Australia to join a wealthy, " squatocratic" relative, to whose friendly offices, with all the confidence of youth, I doubted not that I might leaA-e the sole responsibility of my future advancement in life.

With such golden prospects before me, it was with a light heart that I shook hands with my aged mother at Granton pier, and stepped on board the steamer that was to take me to London, en route for Australia. My noble, Roman spirited mother, how little did we then think, either of us, that we had taken our last look at each other on earth, and that I, who so lightly and carelessly bade thee adieu, was then being shot forth by the strong bow of.destiny, across the far rolling ocean, thenceforth to be joined to an order of things, that the decrees of fate had determined should be ever separated from thine ! May peace be with thy spirit, for this world now knows thee no more, though surely thou art at rest, and hast thy reAvard. In the latter end of June in the year 1850, the same that witnessed the first discovery of gold in Australia, I sailed from the East India Docks in the good ship " Sussex".

After a prosperous voyage, and what was then regarded as a moderately^ quick one, of something over a hundred days, we sighted land, and shortly after dropped anchor inside the Philip Heads. Hoav bright still seem all those days in retrospect. I remember with wMt exultation I hailed the sight of that land, that to me seeruM stored with so many golden prospects. It was a cloudless sultry October morning, and after my first delightful gaze at the blue headland, my overflowing feelings suddenly found vent in the words of a song that had been popular durino the passage — " Hurrah for the fields of Australia," etc. I enthusiastically led the chorus, energetically marking the time with my feet as I paced along the deck. Everything seemed bright and wonderful to me then— even the crew of the quarantine doctor's boat that presently came alongside excited my admiration, as I remarked their bronzed faces, which gave them a kind of foreign appearance in my eyes.

Melbourne was at that time only just emerging out of its chrysalis state. The habitations still chiefly consisted of huts and tents run up at the time when this land of promise was only known in connection with its pastoral interests. But, with the sudden discovery of untold treasures, large and more pretentious buildings, chiefly hotels and stores, were everywhere seen starting into existence. All was commotion and confusion, and diggers, maddened with excitement, scattered their easily-won money around them in handfuls, till the stories told of their frenzied extravagance made one marvel. But I waited in Melbourne only until the first steamer started for Geelong, for to a merchant of that town I had a letter of introduction. Furnished by this gentleman with directions for my guidance, I started next day on foot across a vast plain, the timber land on the other side of which I entered late on the same afternoon.

Mistaking my road, I there made my first acquaintance with Australian bush life by passing the night in the forest and being almost devoured by mosquitoes, until in sheer desperation I, long before dawn, started up and resumed my journey. After blundering a while amid the dark forest, I fortunately made up to the homestead I was in search of. The men's cook, who had but lately risen, and had a fire blazing in the hut on my entrance, made me heartily welcome to a substantial breakfast. Directed by him anew, I once more started off through the forest, and after contriving to lose myself only twice again, I came across some bullock drivers who were driving their teams in the same direction, and who safely deposited me at night at the hospitable abode of a neighbouring squatter, from whose place on the ensuing day, after a short journey of four or five miles, I finally reached the home station of my kinsman. £He received me courteously, but himself had no need for my services, and accordingly, as he was then about to despatch a bullock team with goods up to another station owned by him in the Wimmera district, some hundred and twenty miles further up country, I was after a few days sent on to this station by this means.

Mr. M'Elwain, my kinsman, was a gentleman of rather pleasing appearance. He was of a slight but wiry build, well formed, and with a rather dark complexion, and hair and whiskers of a dark brown colour. Courteous and affable in manner, he was nevertheless keen in business, and a man who looked to a full return for all his payments. Owing his own considerable fortune solely to his habits of perseverance and frugality, in his ideas of the proper regimen for young men in husbanding their resources, he combined almost meanness with abstemiousness, so that, although he could prove himself a fast friend to those who secured his confidence, yet he was not a man likely to run much risk by too rashly furthering the interests of anyone of Avhose prudence and thrift he was not perfectly satisfied. With him the great end of life was to make money, not indeed to hoard it, but as a necessary means of making life enjoyable, and to those who, by habits of carelessness or wantonness, dissipated means which might haA-e been husbanded for this end, he could give no sympathy.

I mention these particulars now, as they may help to ex plain the reasons for the sudden collapse of my expectations from the good offices of a man for whom I nevertheless con tinued to entertain sentiments of sincere respect. He was then over forty-five years of age, though only recently married. My journey with the bullock dray occupied about a fortnight. During that time the only incident worth recording Avas a slight fracas betwixt myself and the bullock driA-er. He was a young man rather older than myself, who, in Aiew of his four years' residence, laid claim to all the privileges of colonialism, the which implied, in his opinion, a decided su periority over me. He proceeded accordingly, under this belief, to hector and domineer over me, until at last, in a fit of ex asperation, I vindicated my Highland blood, and "New Chum" spirit, by heartily cuffing him.

With the exception of this trifling matter, the journey to me afforded a source of continual pleasure. It was bright summer weather, though extremely sultry. For a considerable distance, the road wound chiefly through the primeval forest, whose deep glades fairly echoed to the loud cracks ofthe bullock whip, as, with its cruel lash often applied in mere wantonness, the driver urged on his slow team, whilst the flocks of green and crimson plumaged parroquets flut tering from tree to tree, or clamorous cockatoos filling the air with their discordant cries, were things that, together with the noA'elty of my situation, were to me a continuous feast of pleasure. But traA-elling over the vast, treeless plains that, later on, spread for miles along our route, was not quite so en joyable, save in the evening camp by some cool watering place.

It was then that the " billy " brewed tea, the ash baked damper, the fried chops, were discussed with that keen relish which only a youth of healthy appetite and bounding spirits could fully appreciate. At length, situated in a forest of box, gum, and oak, through which we had been journeying for some hours previously, I saw a paddock fence, and knew we had reached our destination, and that I should travel no further, for some time, at least. I mean, of course, that we had reached Mr. M'Elwain's upper station. The buildings of the homestead were few and simple. The chief one was a moderate-sized wooden building, containing about four rooms, erected by Mr. M'Elwain with his own hands, for he had formerly resided there himself. Its walls inside were done up with lath and plaster. In front Avas a verandah, into which one room opened, whilst to the rear its dimensions were extended by what, in New Zealand, is known as a "lean-to," the whole being roofed in with wooden shingles.

Adjacent to it was another hut that served as a kitchen, and, irregularly scattered in front of these two, were several more wooden huts, some built of split slabs, others merely of logs, answering respectively as stores and shearers' hut, whilst one was occupied by the weekly station hands. Outside the pad dock fence, about a quarter of a mile off in the open forest, was an immense building, whose rafters appeared to fairly bend be neath the superincumbent weight of bark and logs, by which it was roofed in, and the roof secured. This was the woolshed, in front of which were erected high posts to support the lever that then formed the primitive method of compressing the wool in the frames that were fixed inside the building. Be sides these, the woolshed was almost surrounded by necessary yards for the management of the sheep in driving them into the shed, branding, etc.

This brief summary completes the description of the buildings of a station whose wool returns represented ten thousand sheep, and which had, in addition to that stock, a few hundred head of cattle. I, immediately on my arrival, introduced myself to Mr. M'Lean, the overseer, and presented my credentials ; the result was that I found myself forthwith attached to the regular staff in the capacity of store-keeper. This situation I accepted contentedly enough, hoping that it would be merely the first rung of the ladder, the last of which my aspiring ambition fondly pictured, would at no distant date be the chief managership of that very station. I may as well say here that in this situation I remained for about two years, at the end of which time Mr. M'Elwain suddenly disposed of his station by sale.

This circumstance occasioned a sudden collapse to all the pleasant little airy struc tures I was continually in fancy erecting regarding my rapid success in life. Mr. M'Elwain, who really had no further occa sion for my serAices, now kindly, but with his usual caution as to committing himself, offered to find me a situation vvith a neighbouring squatter. But, from the well-known sordid disposition of the latter, my further trial of station life would have been so uncongenial, and the remuneration that he offered so slight in comparison to what I deemed my merits deserved, that I declined the offer in disgust. Upon this, my kinsman, no doubt regarding me as being altogether too high minded, after giving me some excellent adA'ice for the regulation of my futuremovenients, and with many expressions of good-will for my welfare, bade me farewell.

Although the daily events of my two years in this station were too flat and commonplace to interest a general reader, yet it was here that I made the acquaintance of Sehm, the old horse, a sudden sight of whose grave, by flooding my mind with old memories, suddenly inspired me with the idea of recounting them all in a written narrative. But, as all the circumstances connected with that event form a somewhat lengthy episode, I will reserve the account of them for another chapter.

Chapter II

" My beautiful, mv beautiful, that standest meekly by, With thy proudly arched and glossy neck, and dark and shining eye.': — Mrs. Norton. THE time had verged upon twelve months since my arriA'al at Mr. M'Elwain's station. It was September, the month that ushers in the wool season in that locality, and preparations for beginning the shearing were in a forward state. The shearer's hut, generall}' unoccupied for the major part of the year, now presented a somewhat bee-hive-like appearance, with all its tenants croAvding about the door, or sitting down on a form alongside. The course of a fine spring day was Avaning towards its close, when the sudden clamorous barking of the dogs signalled the approach of a stranger, and look ing down the track, a single horseman was seen approaching at a quick walking pace towards the home-station : his appearance excited considerable comment from the shearers and other hands who were assembled round the door of the hut.

After several remarks had been ventured regarding the pro bable identity of the stranger, one of the men suddenly ex claimed : — " It's George Laycock, I know his horse ; there isn't a nag in the Wimmera can walk with him." "Is it George Laycock, Driscoll ? " said another. "So it is. I wonder what he is after now. I thought he was hunting after wild horses ; by-the-bye, has he still any hope of getting Major Firebrace's mare?" " Why, the old fool will never get her," said a third. " He has been five years now trying to catch her, and he has as little chance of getting her now as ever he had." ' Well, now, I believe different," here chimed in another, an elderly-looking man. " I knew George in the Sydney side, and a better stock-rider you won't find in the colony, and I know that he wouldn't keep on after that mare if he didn't think as how he'd yet get hold of her.

But George is a cove as will stick to a thing he goes after — he'll never cave in as long as he belieA'es there's a chance to get it." " Well, but," replied the former speaker, " see how long he's been after that mare now, surely he ought to have knowed long ago if he had a chance or not." " That's all very well," replied the elderly man, " but George has told me hisself that he never yet seed a proper chance to get a good hunt after the mare ; there is always so much scrub where she is ; and besides it has been only now and then he's been after her in these five years. See how long he's been putting up the stockyards and Aving fences to run her into ! " " And has he been to all this trouble for all this time, and got nothing at all to show for it?" chimed in another A'oice. " No fear," replied the elderly man.

" LeaA'e George alone for that ; I believe George makes a good thing out of these horses, for I s'pose he has never been out after them yet but what he brings home one, and sometimes two and three with him." " Has any one of you ever seen this mare ? " some one now demanded. "Is it certain she's as good as people make her out to be?" " Seen her," replied the man who was addressed as Driscoll, "I s'een her often afore she got away. She was a splendid looking animal to be sure — a dark chestnut. I believ-e the major paid 200 guineas for her, and he refused 100 guineas afterwards on his bargain. She was a pure blood. She got out of the paddock when there was a mob of wild horses about at the time, so she just went away with them ; and since then she's got as wild as a deer, and gallops straight for the scrub when any one comes in sight of her, and she can just go like the wind.

" I suppose," one of the interlocutors here remarked, " she'll have some foals by this time, but then they'll not be much worth, as they'll be got by some scrubber of an entire." " No," replied Driscoll ; " in the mob with which she runs there's a splendid looking entire. He's not a blood, of course, but the foals out of that mare, if they are got by that horse, will be something worth having, I can tell you." By this time the subject of their remarks had dismounted to take down the slip panels, and leading his horse forward, and saluting the men, he ungirthed his saddle and turned his horse out to graze. The animal first, however, proceeded to enjoy the luxury of a good roll, then getting up and shaking himself soundly, went quietly munching the herbage around him. He was rather a fine-looking animal, high in the withers, with shapely legs and long pasterns ; altogether an animal well calculated to support fatigue, and with considerable capacity for speed.

His rider was a man evidently about fifty }rears of age, rather under-sized, but powerfully built. His features, encircled with a bushy grey beard, were open and honest, though they expressed marks of impatient irritation. His eyes were restless and seemed filled with a rather unwonted light, as if something exciting was just then occupying his mind. That such was the case Avas soon evident, when, after the first general salutation to the assembled groups of, " Good evening, lads," and a more particular greeting to the elderly man Avho had lately expressed such a decided opinion of his abilities, whose hand he cordially grasped with the remark, "Well, Caleb, hoAv are you getting on?" he at once delivered himself of the matter that was exercising his mind, with the abrupt remark, " Well, lads, are any of you fancy riders inclined for a gallop, there is a splendid chance now for any one who wants to get hold of a good nag?"

" Where is the mob, George ?" inquired Driscoll. "I wouldn't mind having a ride, if they weren't too far away ; is the major's mare among them?" " Yes, she's there, and all within ten miles of us now," replied Laycock quickly. "Do you know," he eagerly con tinued, " I never did have such a chance of getting that mare as I had this afternoon. I had been shepherding them for days, and to-day the whole mob came to drink at the Bonyup water hole ; if I'd had two or three chaps along with me I could have ridden them at once into the yard ; so I came away here to see if I could get two or three of you chaps to go alon^ with me. We can ride out and camp at the water hole, and then on the following morning we can easily get them in the bush, they won't be far away. I knoAv Avhere we shall be able to drop upon them."

Laycock's information produced a lively sensation amongst the shearers, most of them young men and bold riders, and. a half dozen or so instantly volunteered their services, but ex pressed surprise at Laycock letting his horse loose if he intended riding forth that evening. "Oh, he's all right; I thought he would be the better for a roll, I can catch him anywhere." Meanwhile, to all this conversation I had been a silent, but highly interested listener, and, charmed with the novelty of the adventure, the idea instantly possessed me to make one of the party. Signifying this determination forthwith to the others, my proposal was received with ready approbation. Among the station horses was a bright bay gelding with dark points, named Latrobe, that had often excited my admira tion. He was a magnificent looking animal, above sixteen hands in height, with an eye that under excitement literally blazed like a live coal ; yet, he was entirely without vice, but from one slight blemish consequent on his excitability, by which he was so inflamed when galloping in pursuit of horses, that he became almost unmanageable, he had been slighted for " mustering " by the overseer, who was rather a timid rider.

Yet, precisely for this reason, I now resolved to make him my charger for the occasion, with the reflection that as hard galloping was to be the chief means towards the success of our enterprise, Latrobe could hardly do too much of it. After a hearty supper had been done ample justice to we all started off in high spirits, prepared with blankets for camping out for the night. The twilight had faded, although it was still as bright as day from the light of the moon, that now at its full, shone calm and broad over the trees, when we reached the water-hole where we all dismounted, and tethering our horses securely, prepared cheerfully for passing the night there. But Laycock, with the foresight of a prudent commander, instead of seeking repose, determined if possible to ascertain the whereabouts of the horses, so as not to lose time needlessly in the morning, and at once started off on foot on the track of the troop.

In about two hours he returned in high glee, stating that he had heard them neighing in the forest, just about where he had ex pected they would be. I may as well here describe the position we were placed in. The water-hole at which we were camped lay through open forest country about ten miles due north from the station. At this water-hole, however, there was a small plain two miles or so in circumference, which on the other side was fringed with a belt of the mallee scrub that is spread so widely through parts of Australia. This belt of scrub was about three miles in breadth : then the country again expanded for a space into open forest land that was again enveloped on all sides by the interminable scrub. It was in the open space of forest land that Laycock had discovered by the sound of their neighing the whereabouts of the horses.

So our plan of operations for the morrow was carefully laid down that night, viz., to start by four o'clock next morning, and quietly outflank the horses before attempting to come within sight of them, and then, as the dawn appeared, to charge suddenly from different points so as to head them directly for the' water-hole, where there was a yard ready for their reception, and into which we doubted not that by proper management, we should be able to drive them. Exactly by four o'clock the next morning accordingly, we were all in the saddle, indeed, I question if Laycock that night closed an eye, so excited was he at the near prospect of securing the prize after which he had toiled for so many years. Under his guidance, after entering the mallee, and proceeding quietly for fear of alarming the quick ears of the animals we were in quest of, we made a wide detour, never entering the open forest till we were able to do so on the side opposite to where we wanted to drive the horses to.

That none of the wild troupe might haA-e an opportunity of eluding us among the dark shades of the timber, we made no show of discoA'ering ourseh'es till the dawn Avas fully in, when, first spreading ourselves out in the form of a semicircle, the forest suddenly resounded Avith the loud lashings of our stockAvhips, as we all instantly galloped from our different stations towards the astonished herd. Then occurred one of the most magnificent spectacles it has eA'er been my good fortune to witness. In instant reply to our demonstration we heard the loud neighing of the entires — of which there appeared to be several in the troop — while one, a stately looking animal with flowing hair, and of a dark brown colour, that appeared to be the leader ofthe troop (which might have numbered about fifty head), without thinking of his own safety, first dashed completely round the mob collecting them all into a close body, then, placing himself at their head, and laying back his ears, dashed straight at George Laycock, in the centre of the advancing riders, with the apparent purpose of overthrowing his horse, and so breaking through the cordon that was intercepting the retreat of himself and his troop to the scrub.

But Laycock, who was well accustomed to such encounters, was provided against the emergency. In such a case the lash of a stockwhip would be of small use in preserving a horseman from the attack of an infuriated stallion. But just as this one, open mouthed, was preparing to leap upon Laycock's horse, the sudden detonation of a revolver (blank charge), with the flash and smoke in his face, sent him flying in panic in an opposite direction. Then all the riders, with whoops and yells, plied every nerve to lash the terror stricken troop before them. For a short time it appeared as if they were going to have eA'erything their own way, until the mob began to enter the mallee towards the little plain where the water-hole and yard Avere ; when the leading stallion, that appeared to be an animal of great spirit and courage, again galloped along in front of his companions, and wheeling sharply round, made another desperate attempt to break through the line of riders and making a wild launch of his heels at one of the horses, whose rider, unlike Laycock, unproA'ided with a pistol, lashed vainty at him with his whip — he fairly dashed past him.

Then ensued a scene of indescribable confusion, as the whole troop following their leader, poured through the gap in the line of riders like water through a sieve, despite the furious efforts ofthe horsemen who, with their long whips lashed frantically in the horses' faces, and, as the line contracted in the effort to secure the parts through which these breaches were made, galloping round either end of it, and so making off in the direction whence they had come. Above all the tumult, Lay cock's voice stern and loud could be heard, shouting to the men to keep back from the horses, but such was the excitement and confusion, that intelligent co-operation was hopeless ; in a feAv minutes the whole mob was irretrieA'ably dispersed. While these eA'ents were passing, I, whose station had been on the northern extremity of the line of riders, found myself, when the horses made their furious stampede, suddenly confronted by a small group that had detached itself from the main body and which evidently intended out flanking me.

It consisted of a superb looking chestnut mare, and I at once surmised it must be the same that Laycock had toiled so long and so arduously to secure. With her were three other younger looking animals, colts or fillies, that by their close at tendance appeared to be her progeny. How, until that moment, I had conducted myself I hardly remember. Being fresh to such work, during the chase I ex perienced the wildest exhilaration of spirits, and in my excite ment I almost forgot what I was doing. But on being thus confronted with the mare, whose identity I immediately divined, in instant anticipation of her intention I gaA'e Latrobe the spur, and thus caused her to head in a more north-westerly direction. Even then, I fear, I was less animated by an intelligent wish to wear her back to the water-hole, than by the mere youthful pleasure of galloping after something, still I had the idea of trying to gain on her opposite flank, and thus to prevent her escape in the direction of her own haunts.